Designing the Power Plant - Episode 137 - Acorn to Arabella: Journey of a Wooden Boat

As we continue working on Arabella, we look ahead at starting to figure out the power plant. We got a beautiful new engine from Nanni Diesel last year and now we are back with Brook Streit from Kraft Power to talk about some of the intricacies of getting that diesel engine fit perfectly to our needs.
Now is the time to start thinking about all these things as it will help to have them in mind as we build out the interior. We have an opportunity to work everything into one cohesive idea, as opposed to fitting the engine to a predetermined space. So, we talked about hookups, water intake, through hulls, batteries, etc. This laid the groundwork for us to talk further and come up with a plan down the road for a complete instal Yep! We'll likely see them in the future to help hook it all up, which we are very much looking forward to.
We also would like to let everyone know about a couple of things.
First of all, we are giving Ben a very much deserved break from video editing next week. He's been doing a fantastic job for the last year, cranking out great videos week after week and we'd like to give him the same opportunity as us to take a much deserved breather. This means there will be no video next week (November 20th, 2020).
Speaking of vacations, Steve just headed out to the desert to go climbing with a friend and get a much needed break from the work here at Acorn to Arabella. He'll be back shortly and in the meantime, Alix will be working on getting Victoria's knees installed as well as fitting lodging knees and short beams.
Finally, if you'd like to help out the project right now, a good way to do that would be to support by getting your very own limited edition Acorn to Arabella tshirt. We currently have a campaign running through Bonfire until the 19th of November 2020. They will ship shortly after that (so they should arrive by the holidays!). The design was drawn by our good friend Scott Ouderkirk from the channel Glass Goat (The Wooden Boat Experience) [ / @glassgoat9601 ] and is a drawing of Arabella with her deck framing in.
If you are interested in one of these shirts you may purchase them here:
www.bonfire.co...
Links to Kraft Power and Nanni Diesel:
www.kraftpower....
www.nannienerg...
Thank you all for watching and for supporting Acorn to Arabella!
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Acorn to Arabella is a boat building project taking place in Granby, Massachusetts. Steve and Alix started as amateur boat builders building their own 38' wooden boat in their backyard: designer William Atkin's Ingrid with a Stormy Petrel's gaff rig. These videos follow the journey from tree felling, to lumber milling, to lofting, to the lead keel pour and beyond-sharing details of the woodworking, carpentry, metal smithing, tool building, and tool maintenance that wooden boats command. This ultimate DIY project will continue well past launch, when they will travel and learn to cruise aboard the boat that they've built. Just kidding about all that, this channel is about a Siberian Laika named Akiva.
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Intro Illustrations by Scott Ouderkirk from Glass Goat (The Wooden Boat Experience)
/ @glassgoat9601
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Original Soundtrack available at benfundis.bandcamp.com
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[@michaelbarras6950]

One big sheetmetal catch pan under the engine is the way to go on a wooden boat. Wood soaks up oil and fuel. Just sealing the wood isn't going to be sufficient. You will have to fabricate the pan to fit the area and must have a drain toward front or forward of engine for easy access. Good luck guys!

[@wi11y1960]

It wouldnt bee that hard to modify the hand pump with some valves, to be used to empty that pan.

[@michaelbarras6950]

@@wi11y1960 agree. Could put a tee and run another hose to a drain point fitting on the pan with shutoff valves for each line. Never thought of that. Two minds better than one!🙂

[@jeffwisemiller3590]

Use fiberglass & mold the pattern in place. Easier to clean, easier to see parts when they fall (& they will) & no rattles!

[@court2379]

@@jeffwisemiller3590 And you can still use a magnet to fish them out from the back.

[@chrisv4640]

Maybe copper sheet

[@everythingyacht3842]

I have been a subscriber since the keel was poured, thanks for all the great videos! I am a yacht systems engineer and would like to chime in with a few very critical points to consider. With a BSEE I will have to point out a few things you mentioned electrically speaking but first, the diesel: Look up and read Nigel Calder's "Marine Diesel Engines" before making ANY more decisions about the diesel; it will answer a lot of the questions that were overlooked in this video. Engine compartment volume: An engine compartment needs to be the same volume as the amount of air aspirated in one minute. This is for cooling purposes. Too much and you won't have enough air flow around the block, too little and the engine will be starved of air. Use the equation, [Displacement] * [Max RPM] / 2 = [Volume, Eng Compartment] For your primary fuel filters, use a twin filter arrangement like the Racor Marine Duplex 500. This arrangement will allow you to switch to a new filter while underway so the old one may be changed out. Mount your secondary filter (from the engine) adjacent to the Racor. With your electrical system, don't fall into the trap of trying to make it so simple that you end up making it too complicated: Federal code prohibits the use of LiCoO2 and other similar types of lithium-ion chemistry commonly found in photographer's battery packs. The only type of chemistry allowed for storage batteries on US-flagged vessels are LiFePO4. This means you may not meet federal code if you are using photography batteries as your primary storage method. Meaning, if they ever catch on fire (this does happen) and burn down a marina, you may not be covered by your insurance! Not to mention the nightmare of trying to charge them with only a 100 amp source, it is likely that without a proper charge controller, you would just fry your brand new alternator. If weight is not much of a concern for you, then you may be able to go with an AGM lead-acid bank. The systems required for monitoring and charging are much simpler and the initial purchase is much lower. While LiFePO4 batteries would be less expensive over the life of the batteries, the systems required are slightly more involved and there is the initial purchase price to consider, which is quite substantial. In either case AGM or LiFePO4, using a battery switch or combination of switches, keep the start and house banks separate with an option of emergency paralleling them, just in case you ever need to 'jump start' the engine with the house bank. If you only have one alternator, you will need a battery isolator. A charge isolator allows one or more charging sources to be used to charge multiple banks while still keeping the banks electrically separate. The lack of the ability to parallel the photography batteries with the start bank would be another reason to avoid the 'overly simple' approach. Power review: V * A = P 240 VACrms * 100 A = 24 kW 12 VDC * 100 A = 1.2 kW The difference between the alternator at 100 Amps and your shop panel at 100 Amps is 22.8 kW!!! It would take TWENTY alternators to match the power of your shop panel! BTW: A hot shower is a huge moral booster when cruising on long passages! In other words, don't skip the electric FW pump and engine-heat hot-water heater. The hot water heater connects to the engine coolant loop near the thermostat and on or near the exhaust manifold. It will also have an electric heating element that may be used while at the dock and on shore power. In cold climates, the electric heating will pre-heat the engine's coolant loop decreasing the time it takes to warm up thus, slightly extending the life of the engine.

[@allgonquin]

Finally a bit of solid sanity in this discussion. As an engineer as well, I can say "what he said". And mechanically, as an engineer specifically in the engine business, do put a drip pan underneath, go ahead with remote mounted filters and sump extraction pump, and a second alternator is always good to have. Electrical loads never seem to decrease - usually the opposite. And as a bluewater sailor who lived for a while on a 44' sloop, hot water is a very good thing, and refrigeration is also a very good thing. Both can be done without huge hassle or expense, especially if you can find a sponsor....! And make sure that whatever batteries you end up with are secured such that when you experience a knockdown (and you eventually will) they will stay exactly where you put them. Carry on, Arabella will be a beauty!

[@phillee2814]

The only thing I would add to that would be that you also have to consider how induction air gets into the engine compartment without taking seawater with it.

[@Bajatrvlr]

I agree wholeheartedly with both comments, you will be hating life without these recommendations. Spend the time it takes to thoroughly understand these most basic systems, you’ll be infinitely better off once you do.

[@donniebrown2896]

Engineer, maybe you can answer a simple question. Why would anyone want to heat hot water? "Hot water heater"

[@sirlandsalot]

Exactly what he said. Look into Firelfly AGM batteries. You will never have a nice girl staying with no hot water!

[@RobMoreland]

One huge reason for the sales guy to get a proper mask: We're talking about it when we should only be talking about the motor and the related electrical systems. If he'd worn a proper mask, no one would have given it a second thought. It's clear that he knows his stuff, but if he wants to be more effective at his job, he should keep the attention on the product. I'm excited to see this in its final config, through holes, rerouted fuel and oil lines, and all. Great work as always, y'all. The episodes make Friday mornings even better.

[@robertlugo3388]

You want a dedicated water inlet for the engine. The suction of the raw water pump could pull air from the galley hand pump. The galley and head can use the same thru hull. Keep all the engine systems separate.

[@doogssmee9742]

The raw water to head needs to be on its own through hole ... and in a place where it is easy to turn off ..... toilets that draw strait from the sea have a bad habit of sinking boats hence both inlet and out let from toilets need to be turned off when not in use And yes dedicated water inlet to engine ..... also remember if you want extra accessories (water pump, alternator) on the engine then you can use electric clutches to turn them on and off as required. We used 24v ones as used on truck air conditioners, just had to lift one of the coil wires from earth and make the clutch all above earth.

[@LordLeFrog]

Also keep the engine battery for the engine itself. If the electronics leak current, after a few days at sea your engine will not start. Running out of battery for the electronics is not a big deal, just turn on the engine and they are back up. Loosing the engine battery and you are screwed.

[@nocare]

Can't the line just have a check valve? That would prevent drawing air from anywhere else. It might make it difficult or impossible to use the sink with the engine on in that case but if they are dead set on only having one hole wouldn't that be the way to do it?

[@steveholton4130]

@@nocare No Matter What the use is, ALWAYS USE a GATE VALVE in Series With a Check Valve. Never Use a Check Valve Alone. Don't think of it as Why add a Gate, think of it as Why Add a Check?

[@nocare]

​@@steveholton4130 O I agree, I meant for the single port problem. The op's comment was that the engine could pull air from the galley hand pump. A check valve solves that problem. A gate valve of course would also be on the same pipe in case the check valve fails but a gate valve alone would be inconvenient and can be forgotten. Always have a gate valve, add a check when you need utility such as sharing an intake pipe.

[@alfredrichter6236]

If I was you, I would install a permanent pan underneath the motor, because in time your engine may leak and drop oil or diesel. Than you will be happy to have an easy way of keeping your ship clean.

[@NoseyLurker]

Also slope the pan slightly forward (towards the access opening) so the small drips do run to one spot and can be noticed and cleaned up there.

[@stephencurtis9400]

@@NoseyLurker the boat is pitching alot flat is fine,forward movement forces the liquid to the rear.

[@mikecabral1579]

That was my first thought. It’s just a little sheet metal work attached at the motor mounts. Stainless steel is also an option. Corrosion should be a consideration epoxy coatings work well. Add a drain to draw off any spills or leaks that will develop over the years. I also don’t understand how you will live without a microwave. Such great growth in battery pack technology that you should consider. Tesla has shingles that are solar panels. You need reliable power for safety don’t skimp here. Having arrays that you can deploy when needed would be great. Fresh water storage for the sink seems essential to me. You’re going to be living on the boat not camping.

[@darrellshuman7751]

My first thought as well. My experience on the farm is that everything leaks something over time. If any engine maintenance is needed a pan would catch any fluid and also that nut you know is going to drop.

[@joedoe6444]

i don't know if a drip pan would work so well in a boat that is leaning 45 Deg. to one side then all the sudden to the other side. plus their is the never-ending up and down from the front to the back as you go through the waves. the only use i could see a drip pan serving would be to hold some of those towels that are made to soak up oil/fuel spills. my best guess here.

[@jonathankipps9061]

Steve's comparing the amperage of the alternator to the house/shop was a little off base. Arabella's 100 amp alternator will produce 1/20 of the power that the house/shop 100-amp panel will provide. 12 volts vs. 240 volts. Multiply the volts x amps to get watts of power. Steve and Alix, remember that redundancy is important. Go ahead and use two separate batteries for starting and household usage. But if possible, use batteries that are interchangeable. If your starting battery is getting iffy, you can physically switch the batteries between their respective trays, and use the household battery as a spare.

[@wayphun72]

Ya you can tell he doesn't know the first thing about anything he was talking about. Gonna be interesting how the mechanical side of this thing ends up.

[@kilianortmann9979]

This might be the time to sit down and make a list of all the electrical needs of Arabella, for now and in the future. Talk to people who have done long distance cruises with sailing boats and see what they found most important, or missed. Then bring an electrician in and make a proper wiring diagram with all the generators, consumers, batteries, priorities and redundancies. And if in doubt spec a little bit generously, no one knows what the future brings, but having to add outlets to a complete room is always a pain.

[@everythingyacht3842]

I was just about to post the exact same comment. The only point I would add here, is that dual purpose starting/deep-cycle batteries are always a compromise. This means that if your batteries are all the same, then they are always less than perfect for the job they do 99.999% of the time. A much more sane, simple, and effective way to achieve the redundancy you suggest is to have dedicated start batteries of the starting type, house batteries dedicated to deep cycle. Then use a battery switch to 'emergency parallel' the house to start banks, IF it is ever needed. In a perfect world, this would never need to happen because, there should be nothing on the start battery draining it.

[@schuttrostig5729]

Its more like 1-2 starter battery and 8 house batteries.

[@horatiohornblower868]

Dave Scott Indeed. Steve and Alix may be good shipwrights, but they are absolute novices on the mechanical and electrical installations a ship needs. Time they call in an expert before they make decisions they would regret later.

[@Sabre2165]

Interesting discussions! I'll throw in my $0.02 based upon years of sailing and living aboard a blue water cruising sailboat, and now owning a wooden trawler ex commercial fishing boat. Though your mechanical systems are still a bit in your future, you'll be planning their layout before you know it. 1. Engine start battery has to be dedicated for that purpose only, no nav lights, instruments, bilge pumps, etc. When the wind comes up into the anchorage and you need to motor against the storm to stay off the reef, you need the magic button to work every single time. 2. House battery systems are rapidly evolving. Yes, you want to lean heavily toward the traditional experience, but you won't want to sacrifice comfort and safety any more than necessary. You'll hear extensive debates about wet cells vs gel cells vs lithium. You mention Goal Zero so you're certainly aware of the benefits of lithium. The one that most people don't think about is that they can absorb charge virtually as fast and hard as you can provide it. On Arabella, with very limited opportunity for much solar array, this means that you'll minimize engine running time. You certainly don't want a generator aboard, and running your main engine just to charge batteries is both wasteful and hard on the engine. But, away from the dock, it's going to be your only option, so you want to think about how quickly you can fill the house bank, therefore minimizing running the engine. NOTHING will take power like lithium, and with a DC-DC converter, you don't need an expensive smart alternator. Yes, it's expensive, but this factor alone will directly address your desire to maintain as much of the traditional wooden boat experience. There are many, many ways to build a lithium house bank that are far less expensive than most people realize. Check out Will Prowse for details. 3. While it may seem romantic and traditional, relying upon oil lamps and candles is really a horrible way to live aboard. LED lamps can be attractive and traditional, use little power, and are a wonderful way to minimize your energy independence. Think about lighting, your nav electronics, charging computer and camera batteries, and refrigeration when building your energy budget. Don't forget bilge pumps! Yes, a Whale Gusher will move a lot of water, but you can't do anything else to save your ship while pumping it. 4. Refrigeration! Sure, many have lived with block ice for years, and I'm one of them. Modern systems with Danfoss swing compressors are so energy efficient that it's easy to walk away from hauling ice (and dealing with melt water in the boat). Yes, you can absolutely sail the world with no fridge at all, but it's so easy these days to include it. 5. The head. My cruising boat had no holding tank at all, but that was a looooong time ago, and those days are gone. Open ocean? Absolutely, but in any harbors these days and in virtually all coastal waters of the US and Canada, you can't discharge raw sewage. You'll need to plan ahead for sufficient holding tankage. Many areas would still allow you to discharge via a macerator pump and/or treatment system, but this runs contrary to the traditional ethos. Consider a composting toilet with minimal tankage for urine. 6. Galley stove. Likely not electric. Alcohol and kerosene are traditional but horrible to live with, stinky, low energy density. We have diesel and love it; it's a tradition here in the Pacific Northwest and is the very best type of heat for the boat, but it's not for everyone and certainly no good in hot weather. A plus is that you'll already be carrying diesel and it's simple to pump some to a header tank for the stove and/or a bulkhead heater. Propane has high energy density and is very, very convenient. People freak out about the safety but it's child's play to build a safe system. 7. Hot water! A 12-gallon tank with heat exchanger is simple, and having the hot water from the engine will allow you to wash dishes and yourselves without having to use the galley stove. Seriously, having it aboard is well worth it. 8. Domestic water. I had a salt water galley faucet with a traditional bronze pump faucet, and very rarely used it. Washing dishes while blue water cruising? Yup, that was the only use for it. Also had a fresh water faucet with foot pump. I would go with a simple 12 volt pump in a heartbeat, having now lived with both. PEX plumbing will make plumbing Arabella a joy! Run a tap to the deck for luxurious outdoor showers! Yes, you'll be carefully conserving water while at sea (unless you go with a small RO watermaker), but all it takes is a bit of discipline to not let the tap run unnecessarily. Pumping manually gets old really fast. Damn, that got long in a hurry! Better cut it off before you fall asleep! Cheers, guys...she looks beautiful!

[@bigwildcarp]

Nicely put.

[@robertlugo3388]

The best advice I've seen yet

[@katypetersen5824]

Excellent advice all 8 points of it. We used a raw water foot pump at the galley sink in the Morgan 30 we owned for 30 years. You have got to also at least rinse with fresh water or you will find all your silverware and you sink rusting faster than imaginable. In our current 45’ live aboard, we have both a foot pump raw or fresh and a pressure fed faucet. We like both for different purposes. We have yet to switch the foot pump to raw water, we like our sink and cutlery and pots and pans rust free. The salt environment is harsh.

[@BrentThu]

All solid advise, having some offshore experience (sailed across the pacific, into the 40s etc) until this point I thought they had thought of alot... this discussion and their lack of knowledge has me a bit worried.

[@katypetersen5824]

@@BrentThu No need to worry. All the cruisers I know learn as they go. No matter how much you know ahead of time, things come up while out cruising that challenge our knowledge and push our skills and flexibility. Cruising is not just about sailing, but also about finding solutions to the challenges that come our way and learning from the experience. Steve and Alex are great at finding solutions. They will have a huge advantage in that they know their boat so well. They might limp along without enough power, or conveniences for a while, but upgrades are part of boat ownership, and they will figure out what they need/want as they cruise. They have time. I expect they will start with coastal hops not plunge in with bluewater crossings. They listen, consider and learn. I am so far quite impressed with their decisions, their work ethic, and their willingness to take so many of us along on their journey.

[@CurlyScott89]

A second alternator relieves a large amount of stress that occurs when the first one inevitably fails.

[@everythingyacht3842]

It also eliminates the need for a battery isolator.

[@benmac940]

If for no other reason you'd think you'd want a second alternator.

[@cf6282]

Always have a back-up!

[@denisohbrien]

they will need 3 or 4 alternators for the bumping soundsystem .

[@blkhemi3925]

2 alternators 6 12v batterys.

[@nigel4425]

No hot water?? Trust me, if you have nothing else down below, get hot water! Also - do a full electric audit - double it and put enough batteries to deal with it - you need an Engine battery and a house bank and a charge controlling system - you will be surprised what you think you don't need but you end up needing. 2 Alternators is a must if you are travelling.

[@tonyrmathis]

He needs to seriously consider a keel cooler. A little more cost but a lot less problems later on.

[@joshuawalker7054]

I always see people go bananas over the engine. Everyone makes it sound like a disaster if there was an issue. You guys know this boat is wind powered, right?

[@Phyde4ux]

As it stands, they'll have to stop recording and making videos once they're under way. Without solar or at least a battery bank running off an alternator, they won't have any power to speak of within days of setting sail.

[@tonyrmathis]

@@joshuawalker7054 The boat has a motor. If it's going to be used it ought to be setup correctly. A keel cooler does away with the need for a raw water pump. One less thing to give problems. No chance of obstruction by trash and weeds. And the biggest thing. No internal salt water corrosion. If nothing else the motor can be considered emergency equipment. If the boat runs aground (all boats eventually run aground) a raw water inlet can be clogged with mud causing the engine to overheat and fail when you need it worst. I know this first hand having replaced a head on a commercial fishing boat only to see the captain run it aground 30 minutes later and blow the engine. "You guys know this boat is wind powered, right?" Yes and it's made to go places. So why take an anchor? Right? Better yet take an anchor but not anchor chain.

[@tonyrmathis]

@@Phyde4ux They could run convertors for 110VAC but they have to be good ones not to damage certain electronics. They could crank the engine daily to charge the battery bank, something they need to do anyway. I've used a 2000 watt convertor to run my house after ice storms using a 4 battery bank on a semi truck before and I only had to crank it and charge them up every 8 hours or so. Most Freightliner dealers have 12V batteries for $50 to $80 so it's wouldn't be expensive to set up. One thing they do need to avoid is specialized marine and industrial batteries. They're expensive hard to find and don't last much longer than semi batteries.

[@bvheide]

This was a fun discussion. The biggest lesson: What kind of masks suck and keep sliding off your face and what kind don't.

[@alistanford]

Yea, that was awkward.

[@gregorskiff]

After trying many types of masks these are so far the most trouble free and comfortable, they fit my big melon no problem and don't constantly pull at your ears. losangelesapparel.net/collections/face-masks/products/3-pack-cotton-mask

[@Bialy_1]

@@alphabetsoup7918 No you are not the only one, world is full of Karen's. I can only imagine what would be happening in comment section if he would show up without that crapy cover...

[@bobgcampbell]

Puraka is my go to mask.

[@fromonhigh891]

@@alphabetsoup7918 you and everyone else. Brook's behavior was about as good as his marine power systems knowledge: fucking terrible

[@wvonfricken]

guys: please buy and read "boat owners mechanical and electrical" by nigel calder. read it and understand it before making any decisions.

[@tracythorn2918]

I'd vote for a hot water shower if it were me! It looks like a very adaptable engine and as always you guys are thinking ahead for the practical needs. I'll throw in my vote for a catch pan as well. Enjoy your time off Ben and Steve! I'll be playing a rerun next Friday.

[@stevenr8606]

The diesel water heater/air heater is a must. ALL boats in northern latitudes get very, very 🥶 (cold)!

[@curtismakes]

Been a subscriber for years. Loving this build. I've spent some time on a sailboat. Because I'm really invested and really want this project to be just super successful, I got a nervous feeling in my stomach as I heard Steve dismissing the amenities. Seriously. You guys need to find someone with a boat as similar as you can to the size and setup of Arabella. Put out a request on a video--I'll bet it will be answered. I am completely sure it will totally be worth it to interrupt the project to go live on it for minimum a few weeks. Cook, shower, sleep, bathe, navigate, etc. as you are planning to on Arabella and in that context make decisions about what you need and what you don't. Also, setting things up in a way that copies a modern commercial design (electrical, systems, galley, seaberths, etc.) that has been arrived at though *iteration* is going to have a lot of advantages versus even the best carefully considered minimalist design. Best wishes, keep it up and I'm loving this project!

[@judechandler5102]

She looks more and more like a boat by the day. She's gorgeous and you've done yourselves proud. Well done!

[@gregmirr]

Having owned a couple sailboats I'm concerned you're underestimating your electrical system . Having pressurize hot and cold water at your galley & Head is essential if your planning on living aboard . It's the difference between camping out and truly living comfortably . These systems these days are compact and reliable , a dual system of hot water off the engine and a compact electric water heater gave us hot showers on deck ...and that's really nice !

[@Gottenhimfella]

I respectfully disagree. Many people who use boats to live off the beaten track eventually decide to do without "convenience" items in favour of cutting down the time they spend trying to find good supplies of safe water, ferrying water out to the boat, waiting in foreign ports for part to arrive so they can get that safe water out of their tanks when their pumps or fittings have failed, etc etc. It's not "convenient" to build, or maintain, a traditional timber vessel, nor is it convenient to sail to remote places for extended periods. I personally feel the whole notion of modern convenience is a seductive but unproductive red herring, and some of the happiest people I've visited on other yachts in remote locations have done without most mod cons in favour of simplicity and affordability, and got unexpected benefits in being able to spend their time on things which are mission critical instead of distracting peripherals. One in particular had no through hull holes whatsoever: he washed his dishes in a bucket he'd pulled up some salt water in (if you lick the grease of the plate while it's still warm as soon as you've eaten, and then wipe it with a soapy cloth, you don't need hot water). A different bucket served as a head, and an outboard motor coped with the rare times he couldn't sail right into his anchorage. He was a better sailor, and his yacht showed a clean pair of heels, to any cruising boat less than twice its size.

[@stephencurtis9400]

@@Gottenhimfella nice,telling it like it is.

[@diabolicalartificer]

My boat had a stainless steel pan under the engine to catch drips etc, it was made out of an old sink/draining board thingy combo. apart from catching drips and wotnot it was also good for catching nuts that you inevitably drop whilst making repairs, saves the hassle of trying to find dropped bits down in the bilge......DA.

[@Sixguns1]

Let me preface this by saying I love what you're doing here and watch every episode. That being said, you're making some pretty unusual decisions that you may regret later. Have you ever spent extended time abroad a boat? Have you ever spent days on end at the helm of a boat crossing an ocean? IMO, having no electricity or hot water is punishing yourself for no reason. Tiller steering sounds romantic until you're stuck doing it for weeks at a time. Is it doable and has it been done in the past?? Yes, it's been done and is doable, just as it would have been possible to build the boat with only axes and hand saws, without using chainsaws, wood mills, power planers, drills, welders, bandsaws etc...and yet you chose to use them ( as any sane person would ) because this is 2020 not 1620 and there's no reason not to. Just food for thought, I'll support you in whatever decisions you make, just hope you don't end up regretting things that will be very difficult to change later on.

[@barkerk100]

This is excellent advice. I’ve spent 3 months at sea in a racing yacht with enough people to hand steer and I love to hand steer, but it’s exhausting especially in a storm on a black night, so whenever I cruise with maybe one or three crew the autopilot does most of the steering.

[@fpnbrian]

Any race under 100nm I am at the helm for virtually the entire time, because A I'm a very good helmsman and B I really enjoy driving and C owners prerogative 😉. I can absolutely say that upgrading the old autopilot from an old / weak wheel drive to a hydraulic system was the best upgrade I've ever done. 10 day trip this summer and the autopilot got used every single day. A 12 hr stretch at the helm during a race is one thing, but a 12 hr day at the helm during a cruise while you are supposed to be relaxing and enjoying the view is torturing yourself for no reason. As for Steve's intention of putting a self-steering Vane, that's great for a long Passage, but not so useful during coastal cruising, which is what you do most of the time.

[@katypetersen5824]

If they have weathervane steering, they have autopilot even if it is not what the bulk of cruising sailboats use. There are plenty of cruisers out there with both weathervane and mechanical autopilot they serve different purposes, but crossing oceans a weathervane might be their best bet. A weathervane will work with tiller steering, so no problem there. MJ Sailing sailed their aluminum, tiller steered sloop from Florida to northern Norway and back to the UK with a tiller and autopilot no problem. Given that Steve is not yet a sailor, learning with a tiller has some advantages. Plus a tiller is a simpler system. If you are looking to keep things simple, tiller steering can’t be beat.

[@fpnbrian]

@@katypetersen5824 all fair points, but just to be clear wind vanes are great for crossing the ocean, but not very good for crossing a bay or for when motoring. Here on Long Island Sound virtually no one has or uses them because the combination of winds aren't consistent enough and average passages long enough to get one setup and adjusted to the conditions. If you are within 25nm of land, mechanical / electric AP is the smarter choice. Farther away from land and wind vane steering begins to outweigh electric steering pretty quickly.

[@katypetersen5824]

Brian, We sailed a Morgan 30 out of Falmouth, MA for over 3 decades. We sailed as far south as NYC and as far north as Grand Manan Island Canada. We never had autopilot on that boat. We started with a tiller and switched to a wheel about 12 years in, in part to have more seating room in the cockpit rather than needing a wheel per say. We did fine. I personally wouldn’t want to forgo autopilot now, but back when I was young and out for inexpensive adventure, hand steering worked fine. That was back in the days of LORAN which cost a fortune and only worked for us when the visibility was good. Autopilot can be added later if they find they need or want it. Now I live on a 45’ aluminum hull cutter rig and have lots of convinces: auto pilot, radar, AIS, chart plotter, hot water, a heater, pressurized water system, a large solar array, even a freezer and electric heads. But I sailed happily for more than 30 years without any of that, grant it only from May till November, it is New England we are talking about. If they are going to need to make hard financial decisions, and they are likely to sail in crowded waters, AIS, RADAR, accurate GPS all might come before the auto pilot for me particularly since you can lash a tiller for sail adjustments/changes. We will have to wait and see how they choose to outfit the boat and what they can afford at that time. Right now the bigger issues that they need to think about are their power storage, batteries, and building a pan under the engine, and... I am so impressed with their work and dedication and while Steve is a dandy carpenter and all round handyman, he is not yet a sailor. I don’t see him starting with long voyages. He has time to add autopilot when he gets around to needing it. Hand steering a tiller boat is a great way to learn the feel for the boat’s response to the wind, and you don’t hand steer if you put the boat on autopilot too often.

[@johnszpak1512]

Very poetic to take a vacation from your boat by going to the desert. Safe journey to you.

[@charlieb.4273]

I have no experience in sailing or boat building, but before you start making interior decisions and system decisions might it not be a good idea to stop, go spend a month on a sailboat similar to your design and come up with some opinions of your own on this stuff. I am afraid you will make a decision that you will deeply regret because you have no frame of reference. Best of luck. Charlie

[@BenjaminT.Minkler]

but they had Victoria to spend time in, and still have much of the interior from her that they want to use ....but I agree, even doing a few different mockups/test fittings, and then spending some time trying to live, eat, sleep in this boat as they build would help show where you should give and take to make the most of the space .... like they might realize they do need water for a head!

[@Landogarner83]

@@BenjaminT.Minkler It is less about fitting and more about using it. They never sailed Victoria so it is a pretty poor comparison for what is needed/useful/good to have.

[@steveholton4130]

@@Landogarner83 AND, did VICTORIA do a circumnavigation as they Have Not but Do Intend? Circumnavigation throws in a whole New Can of Worms!

[@tomharrell1954]

@@BenjaminT.Minkler Ben it’s really not about fitting it in. It’s about living on a sailboat and deciding what is a must for you. My must haves are water maker, A/C, Alcohol stove, Air compressor, Auto pilot, Diesel engine, and Electric toilet. Very few sailors require A/C, Alcohol stove, water maker, diesel, air compressor and e toilet. Those are very specific for me. They probably don’t need any of these. But they really don’t know what they need because they have not been on the water. After you know what you want you make it fit.

[@benkilgore]

The idea of spending half a decade building a boat to live on without ever spending an uninterrupted stretch of time at sea on a similar vessel is not wise.

[@googleaccount6761]

He said the one thing he learned working on the farm is if it's easy to get to or work on the more likely it will be maintained or get done....TRUE WISDOM... Very wise words indeed!!!!

[@graxav]

Great vid! Just a thought to consider - 100 amps at 12v is 1200 watts - 100 amps at 120v is 12000 watts 10 times more and at 240v its 24000 watts! so beware of amperage without the voltage!!

[@graxav]

@Charlie KI believe it's not the man in street that is to blame for the way we connect to information but rather the system we grow up in. The skills these guys possess are as far from most people today as a butter churn or a hay rake. Not long ago people were taught the basics of Wattage along with how to use a No 4 plane and a 1/2 inch chisel. So go easy on the lads - they doing an amazing job!

[@georgf9279]

@@graxav When Steve said that I wasn't concerned because he will get the required assitance to do it right. But I was unhappy when the salesman just agreed instead of setting things straight.

[@nocare]

I defiantly cringed a little when he said they could run the shop and the house off 100 amps. I was like not unless that generator is at 120v and 100 amps. Which I know its not, its 12v 100amp. Give things in watts.

[@graxav]

@@georgf9279 True - I think the agent got a little caught out - he said the alternator was nominal (or words to that effect) then saw it was 100 amp, double the standard passenger car rating (UK). He was a bit stuck for words. 1200 watts even with a Li-Ion/inverter setup would be sufficient with room to spare for the dedicated starting battery (lead/acid).

[@mattevans-koch9353]

Stephen and Ben have a great time off. Relax, Rest and Rejuvenate. You've both earned it. I agree with many of those below-if nothing else have hot water. Put in a super insulated tank so you can store the water for a reasonable period of time without having to run the engine. Everything else sounds good the way you have it planned. Take care, stay safe and keep moving forward gentlemen.

[@robp7652]

Washdown pump off of an engine would be good for the sea chest . While you are at it plumb the intake so you can use it as an emergency bilge pump as well.

[@karlisenberg]

Thank you guys for letting us be a part of your journey

[@addemkoozie]

Definitely do the hot water. It’s easy and uses free energy.

[@Deftonesdsm]

Yeah and after a day in the cold spray a hot shower will save your life

[@arlingtonhynes]

Yeah, they’re gonna want that. Might just want the nuker too.

[@4kays160]

Really usefull, so good to have hot water, diesel sure as hell aint free though and typically you arent showering while motoring lol you do that in a mariner or while anchored, i used to make them for alpha laval, the only pain in the ass with them is cleaning out clams,oysters,algie and so forth, and trust me filters dont stop the mollusks growing in them i had to strip and rebuild them for customers every 3 months and its a huge teardown with alot of gaskets like 50 to seperate the fresh water from the engine water.. hell probably be better off with a diesel heater/water heater, they use about a galon of diesel from 12hrs use and there only a few hundred dollars on ebay, quite a few thousand cheaper than the engine seperator heater transfer design and about 2% the noise..

[@Deftonesdsm]

@@4kays160 diesel isnt free but the wasted heat from it is free. So technically the heat making hot water is wasted energy so it is free.

[@4kays160]

@@Deftonesdsm you arent having a shower while driving the boat, you run the moter while parked to get the water hot.. it will heat up as your motoring into a harbour, bit how long do you think it will stay hot? Not long unless you have a 300galon tank which no sailer wants weighing down the boat

[@dm55]

Real nice job on the knees Alix. Beautiful work.

[@darinross3784]

Guys, great video, as always. In keeping with today's theme, I'm going to offer my "two cents" here. First: a metal drip pan secured between the engine and the bedding rails. It will provide security from leaks and drips onto the wood, and allow for bedding absorption materials. Second: on your remote mount research the compatibility of PVC sheeting to mount the filters to. If it is resistant to diesel and engine oil it gives a low cost material that is easily built and cleaned up when needed. Again, thanks for all the work you ALL put in to bring the project to us. Enjoy your time off. Stay safe. Cheers!😎

[@1bcordell]

Good work on the knees Alix. Nice craftmanship. I love how those grains pop when you apply finish. Very satisfying.

[@RM-mv5yz]

I like the idea of solar panels, it makes sense to help trickle charge things. The question is did you ever think about a small wind turbine to sit on the mast to help as well with power generation? Enjoy your break steve and Ben, will miss not having a video next week, but the breaks are required and we can all be patient.

[@lancedaniels]

Thanks for posting and sharing. Have a great vacation.

[@christofbeeckman3506]

As an owner of different previous sailboats i always tought that if i would build one i would : Make an integrated case in aluminium or stainless steel under the engine. So oil spills or cooling liquid spills will not wander trough the bilge and can easely be removed, cleaned. An idea from Belgium. Great job guys...

[@dandexinventor]

Sounds like a trip to climb around at Joshua Tree...? But wherever you go, have fun! The knees look good too! You guys take care!

[@CKOD]

For the extra alternator or not, to account for your electronics (nav systems, nav lights, radios, interior lighting, can start to add up faster than you think), and then size your house battery requirements once you know how long you want to be able to run without the diesel on. Once you size the bank, you can see how much charge current the batteries can handle, and I wouldn't be shy about getting a charge current near what the specified max charge current is. Diesels dont like to be lightly loaded, so I assume you'd have the prop going while charging underway, but if you don't need the propulsion assist, just to charge the batteries, the faster you charge them the less fuel you burn. Also, for your removable power system, if you do have a way to hook that in for house power, I'd still have a fixed house battery. If you're off somewhere remote, like you plan to be, off on shore doing whatever with your house battery out using the power in that up, and come back to a starter battery that gave up the ghost for whatever reason, now you're waiting for a solar trickle charger to charge your removable battery to start the engine. If you have a fixed house battery, you turn on the cross-tie, start the engine, grumble about the stupid engine battery and move on with you day. For your fixed batteries, if they are lead acid, make sure they are the same chemistry. If you have mixed AGM for start battery and flooded deep-cycle for a house battery, the cell voltages are slightly different and one will never get a proper full charge and sulfate over way quicker than it should. Same for 'plain' flooded batteries and ones with calcium in the plate alloy.

[@someone16234]

I love the look of the old knees! Awesome to see a finish put on them

[@ToddSonneborn]

Love your videos (including today's). I've watched every single one and wait each week for the next. I've owned a couple boats in the 35-40' range, and do the maintenance myself, so I know a thing or two about some of the decisions you're making. I've only owned fiberglass boats, so it has been fascinating to see yours being built, but I haven't added many comments, since I know next-to-nothing about wooden boat design or building... other than all I've learned from you guys. Today's episode, however, had a few topics I could lend a little advice on. Obviously, it's your boat, and so you get to make your own choices and live with them... but here's my two cents. 1) You should absolutely have two separate battery banks. One solely for the engine... one for everything else... with some way to swap and/or parallel them in an emergency. 2) You'll probably want a flush toilet (though I know some people these days go the composting route)... which will probably add at least one more intake line. And presumably you'll need thu-hulls to drain your galley sink, head (if you go with a flushing one) and some above-water ones for exhaust and bilge pump. I also have a dripless shaft seal that requires its own thru-hull for cooling... that's not always the case, but is on my boat. I hate holes in the bottom of my boat as much as the next guy, but you may find them to be a necessary evil. 3) Love your idea of moving filters to be accessible... especially the oil filter. You can move the fuel filter too... it's not a bad idea... but THAT filter is rarely going to need changing, assuming you have one (or more) inline filters between the tank and the engine... and you absolutely should. Those do the bulk of the filtering and separate out water... the one on the engine almost never gets bad in my experience. That being said, I haven't sailed to remote places where fuel quality is terrible... still though, your primary fuel filters (racor, etc.) will be the ones that REALLY need to be reachable and easily visible. I would also second everyone's opinions of some kind of drip pan... no matter how careful you are, you WILL be spilling liquids (oil, diesel, coolant, blood from your knuckles, etc). 4) +1 for the idea of a feathering prop... I have a folding/feathering prop (Gori brand) and would never go back to fixed... but I do understand they're (ridiculously) expensive, and might be out-of-reach for that reason. 5) You would be crazy NOT to put in a hot water tank/heater that uses heat exchange from the engine. I have one, and we sail near you guys in Massachusetts... no dock... only mooring... so we don't use electric power for heating the water at all, but you'd be amazed how well they work and they're just parasitically using waste heat from the engine, and it is so well-insulated that it will keep water HOT for an entire day after running the engine. Super easy to install/maintain... no question in my mind you should do this. 5) Consider an externally-regulated marine alternator, like a Balmar. The efficiency is way better... the reliability is way better... and it'll keep your batteries healthy for longer so while initially quite expensive, they do help reduce the chances of destroying your batteries... read up on the topic and you'll see lots of sailors take the new, stock, alternators and sell them to get an upgraded alternator. 100A is probably fine for your needs, but I'd at least look into an externally regulated one. I love a lot of your decisions though... easy-to-maintain engine... easy to get fuel... good access for maintenance... keep it simple... ask an expert... This boat is going to be AMAZING.

[@thetopgun2]

Thanks for the weekly video. Quite enjoy that

[@Rockmaster867]

Some kind of catch pan for oil/diesel so it does not leak into the wood is probably a good idea

[@roberthumphreys7494]

Always love your videos

[@LMP-R]

How many like me forgot there wasn't a video today and freaked out?

[@latitudeash]

Great idea bout moving oil and final filters. Love the approach

[@onkelsvenner]

Have you thought about putting the engine into a special "tub"? I mean it wil be a pain to clean the bilge beneath it... but it will also keep the worst stuff out of the bilge...

[@c.a.mcdivitt9722]

They could also make the tub removable, so as to make it less of a pain to clean the bilge.

[@onkelsvenner]

@@c.a.mcdivitt9722 also nice idea - but it might compromise the "tightness"(?) of the tub... like everything on a boat - it's a compromise ;-)

[@dennisdownes9319]

When I bought my last boat, I only imagined racing, exploring, goofing off. I barely knew diesel from gasoline. That all changed!! I now have thousands of hours fixing and maintaining diesels, water, and electric systems. Don't take this lightly, but especially don't torture yourself! Your boat is so unique, you could put on carbon fiber sails and a jacuzzi down below and STILL be the most special, and unique ship on the water!! DD

[@R.E.HILL_]

Glassfiber/aluminium/stainless steel catch pan... Sooner or later that engine is gonna leak oil or diesel...

[@nigel4425]

100% - a steel pan you can have an absorbent pad in - depending on your engine and usage, you WILL get oil. With an absorbent pad, you just change it out every 3 months, or whenever.

[@Lummify]

Bronze pan since half the boats already made outta the stuff >_>;;

[@koningbolo4700]

You could even use part of an HDPE tote from a smaller size IBC... they come with a nice funnel like structure and a valve... You can heat (paint strippers) the plastic to adapt it to the shape needed...

[@dolvaran]

Make it stainless. Fit and forget.

[@Runoratsu]

Yeah, that what I came down here to suggest as well.

[@saadlaws]

Started watching this channel halfway through and wasn’t really sure how was going to feel about Alix when he returned. However, I find that he is a breath of fresh air and I’m really liking this guy. Keep on keeping on Alix!

[@jtermini30]

Sweet! Consider adding a larger alternator or two capability of charging your batteries at a high rate in a short period of time. Some put enough alternator power the forgo the installation of a generator. Good luck.

[@larrykeenan598]

A second alternator allows for having a backup if the primary alternator goes out.

[@GreensladeNZ]

@@larrykeenan598 that'll happen surprisingly often if you're running enough accessories

[@mikedahlager5572]

Take it from a retired Alaska commercial fisherman: install a Racor double fuel filter. Not only can you isolate a clogged fuel filter without shutting down the engine, it has a sensor which will tell you if the filter is getting bad. Having this system on my boat saved my boat on several occasions, as our fuel quality was sketchy at best in the more remote areas of Alaska. Why did you decide to use raw water cooling as opposed to having a heat exchanger?

[@Broken_Yugo]

Something you have to account for in moving the oil filter off engine is it adds a rather critical fail point, use top quality crimped high pressure hoses and be very mindful of routing.

[@jonathankipps9061]

@Broken_Yugo, Absolutely! One option, would be to add a bracket to the top of the engine itself, and mount the filter to that bracket. That way, there's no vibration or movement between the filter and the engine, allowing hardline to be used.

[@TotalBoat]

Her knees look amazing with that sealer! Enjoy your time off and we will be waiting for your return in 2 weeks!

[@chrisquirke9282]

Long time since I've ocean sailed, now restricted to a narrowboat on the UK iinland waterways, so comments are based on this. Hot water recovered via a heat exchanger /calorifier is a no brainer for me, go for it. I would not use salt water for cooling, but have a standard fresh water glycol closed system and go via a heat exchanger with salt water. We have an Isuzu 35 linked this way, (even in a fresh water canal system) via keel cooling on the narrowboat. By all means be minimalist, but you will regret not having a fridge/freezer on board. We run 2 x 110 aH "domestic" batteries & seperate starter battery same size. If you get good winds and don't run your motor for a long time, you'll regret not having power available. The fridge would be your biggest energy user. We converted all lighting to LEDs, but with a new install, assume this would be on the plan. Enjoy your break, well deserved. Really enjoy the progress on the boat. Regards to all.

[@dolvaran]

+1 on the heat exchanger - but make sure it's not aluminium. Check out Dangar Stu and the work he has just been doing on an old heat exchanger - imagine if that damage was to your primary cooling system!

[@todddunn945]

That nanni diesel has a heat exchanger. The raw water goes to the heat exchanger then overboard via the wet exhaust.

[@chrisquirke9282]

@@todddunn945 not made clear by the Nanni rep, no mention of heat exchanger just "raw water in", but I'm sure you're correct

[@benevans3661]

Totally agree with this. Spent 2 years living on a narrowboat, offgrid; marine batteries and solar panels have come on leaps and bounds in the past few years and its very easy to live off with a 12/24v fridge freezer, lights, water pumps, etc. Can do a microwave with a decent inverter; useful for power tools as well if you need them. Remember starter batteries and leisure batteries are different. You can always find a few square metres to squeeze in a couple hundred watts of solar panels, even foldable ones. No hot water seems crazy! You have so many options; calorifier, little rennai boiler, even solar hot water is a thing!

[@svenandbex]

Got my pen, got my tee shirt. As a maintenance guy and pump station designer for water and wastewater nice to hear all the planning going on! Cause when it breaks will be 2am on a Saturday night a million miles from anywhere. Spares, spares, and spares and if you can, some more spares :) plus the tools to effect repairs. Done a few repairs in the middle of the pacific ocean cursing the boat designer under the breath - don't be that guy.

[@EITURKEY1]

Steve, enjoy your holiday and stay safe.

[@AndrexT]

Interesting episode on the engine, love that stuff. Also, never tire of those repaired knees, Alix made a wonderful job of it, and they look great, especially varnished!

[@steamfan7147]

I would definitely go with a drip pan under the engine and drive, it's new now, but after some hours it will develop drips. I would also at some point after the boat is finished, buy a spare exhaust manifold and stow it. That is one part that the boat will need in 15-20 years and by that time it will either be very expensive or obsolete. Ask me how I know!

[@ariebenschop4632]

How do you know?

[@steamfan7147]

@@ariebenschop4632 Been there, done that, still got the bill for the custom built replacement $$$$

[@lutemule]

If I were these guys i would look very hard into a power plant of some sort. The engine would be a great starting point, even if it needed to idle once in awhile.

[@Jon.S]

Guys what’s the reasoning behind not having any “amenities”, i.e. no hot shower, microwave etc? Is that just to be traditional, or is it a cost or room issue? Just wondering, given how long you’re planning to be onboard/at sea.

[@fpnbrian]

Its simply an unrealistic overly romanticized view of sailing. Basic amenities are jot difficult or terribly expensive to add, and quality of life goes up significantly from them.

[@graxav]

@@fpnbrian Also helps to keep the wannabes and celebrities on shore where they belong! :)

[@joshua43214]

@@fpnbrian Agreed. I do a large amount of back country camping (4 wheel drive to remote areas). About 5 years ago, I started taking a cooler with me. Being able to make grilled cheese sandwiches, chocolate chip pancakes, etc was a total game changer. Some "amenities" make such a huge improvement that they totally offset the cost and hassle.

[@court2379]

@@joshua43214 Here started the path to the 40ft fifth wheel 😏

[@zrebbesh]

A certain amount of it is likely to be listening to Larry Pardey. He advises depending on very little that can't be fixed or replaced with hand tools, because sooner or later you're going to be half a thousand miles from anywhere and some vital part of your boat's infrastructure will fail. When that happens all the modern ameneties that depend on those stop working AT THE SAME TIME, and one disaster then causes five more, or results in the inability to fix it. Imagine trying to restore your electricity and the only thing you have are power tools.

[@georgegaudin1008]

Great video. The prop you spoke of is a Brunton Autoprop. I fitted one to my 31ft Westerly Tempest blade sets to required pitch. 2100 rpm gives me 5.5 - kts and goes backwards in a straight line no prop walk. If you're going to put external fuel filters fit two with a change over valve. If one clogs you'll be under way much quicker that changing the filter.

[@incognitoyt7940]

Guys forget the romance of yesteryear, get sheltered steering capability, hot water, microwave. When your caught at sea for a week in bad weather you will not be lighting the wood stove, think hard take on board the experience of others and

[@court2379]

I agree. Living long periods without these things will get old. Watch sailing channels on YT, and so many end up in catamarans because of the features that make life easy and enjoyable (and the space...). Everything uses electricity these days. I would add at least a few hundred watts of solar panels, a few KWh of LiFePo batteries(fixed), ideally a water driven generator for when underway and as backup to the engine driven one (or two), a charge controller, an inverter to 120 and 220V (120 two phase) and a few outlets around the boat (where do they charge thier computer?), a diesel space heater (those used on semi trucks, for northern voyages), fire and carbon monoxide detectors hardwired to main power, led lighting everywhere inculding all bins and hatches and on deck, a master breaker panel, a lighting switch panel, bilge pumps, an AC/dehumidifier (more solar panels for that one), anchor winch, possibly one electric line winch, a scuba tank compressor, a vacuum, angle grinder and other smaller AC tools, a backup generator and plugs to join it to the power system, a water maker pump, fans if no AC. I feel like they want to keep it simple, and the size of the boat may make some of those above not work, but over time I suspect most of these will be wanted. You are out there to enjoy the voyage and destinations, not to spend hours doing dishes and cooking on ill suited equipment, pumping bilges, pulling anchor, etc.. You also don't want to be limited by having to not use your engine when you need it, because you used too much fuel charging batteries, or you ran out of freshwater because you don't have, or cannot spare the power for a watermaker. To do a clean job these systems need to be planned for.

[@ScottKenny1978]

@@court2379 the sunshade over the cockpit makes a great place to mount the solar panels.

[@teebear3036]

@@court2379 I totally agree especially since this is crowd funded.

[@bgdavenport]

Those restored knees are stunning! The engine installation is so interesting!

[@jkrudolf15]

Make sure the remotes' hoses are the highest quality wire reinforced item made at ye local hose shoppe. No worm clamps and hose on a roll.

[@stevenkaest7306]

Very informative but you've got a lot to think about guys 👍👍Hi from Australia 🇦🇺

[@andrewwilde3389]

Carrying spare face-masks for visitors is a good idea!

[@ArcticSeaCamel]

Great info of all this stuff. You would definitely want to go with lithium batteries even if your usage is low. They’re so much more efficient and get all the juice your engine and solar put there. But you need to have proper alternator to run them. It’s easy to overheat regular alternator with them.

[@williamlyle8265]

I would highly recommend the book Boatowner's Guide to Electrical and Mechanical Maintenance by Nigel Calder as a reference as you start to consider systems.

[@katypetersen5824]

That book is worth its cost and its weight. It is a clearly written gem that we have turned to more times than I can remember.

[@Sircraig7963]

Gday guys ,, Great episode , Love the idea of clean systems , living at sea so often means living with the smell of diesel ,so even isolating the engine /room bilge is truly a breath of fresh air . Solar power of ample sorts is also a must , surely there is room for a well designed system to opperate some mod cons . Living aboard should be comfortable . Enjoy the time in the desert , stay safe . Much Respect from Down Under

[@spitefulwar]

One day the boat will be done and we all will wonder what we are to do on fridays on YT.

[@Kenneth_James]

Watch them travel in it

[@spitefulwar]

@@Kenneth_James I'd assume even the most remote navigation mark will have a 5G access point by then. :D

[@PBarrPrince]

I think about that too. I can't imagine no A2A every week even though I'm sure we'll be with them while they're sailing.

[@Can_non69]

@@spitefulwar starlink will be up and running by then.

[@arizonacitizensdefenseleag3945]

Good luck and have fun on your time off, Stephen, and Ben too. See you when you get back.

[@mitchellstadnik752]

That expert is more of a salesman than a marine systems engineer, do your research

[@GreensladeNZ]

Not neccicarily, sounds like he's trying to scope out their setup more than anything

[@tippyc2]

A sales rep that knows his stuff is almost better for giving this kind of advice. They're probably more aware of the full range of available products, compared to an engineer who's likely to be an expert in one thing.

[@everythingyacht3842]

Nothing scares me more than a salesman pretending to be an engineer! LOL!

[@tippyc2]

@@everythingyacht3842 This guy wasn't really trying to engineer the boat though. He could never compete with all these armchair engineers in the KZbin comments anyway. What he did was telling Steve what options are available so that they can make informed decisions on building out the engine bay. I'm an engineer myself, and I think the guy did fine.

[@1bcordell]

@@everythingyacht3842 He doesn't seem like much of an engineer because he can't seem to find a mask that fits. It got to where that was all I was watching, how many times he pulled up that bandana.

[@jessi74]

Those knees look amazing!

[@BigMouth380cal]

Gee, weren't you just bustin a gut to tell this Rep to pull the right side of his mask up over his cheekbone so his mask would stay up around his nose for more that 3 seconds? It was driving me CRAZY!!!

[@Garryck-1]

I was 'busting a gut' to tell him to just use a proper mask and be done with it. Much more convenient than having to adjust it every five seconds.

[@kennethellison9713]

@@Garryck-1 It became so painful to watch him tugging at it. I had to look away. JUST PULL IT OVER YOUR RIGHT CHEEK!

[@tommymitchell3055]

I'm all for the second alternator as well as over estimating battery bank size. Quite a challenge to "Pull Start" that engine.

[@fpnbrian]

Electrically you need a dedicated battery for engine starting, nothing else should be connected to that. The separate house battery bank is connected to the starting battery via an ACR (probably a BlueSea) which allows both to charge together but ensures they discharge separately. All ships electronics and accessories should run off of the house bank. Lastly you should have a battery switch able to switch the engine starting over to the house bank in an emergency if it goes dead. For plumbing, you need raw water inlets for engine, for the head, and its a good idea to have a separate one for the galley. You also need separate water outlets for the galley sink and head sink. The head sink and flush raw water can be combined so that when you close the thruhull the head will pull raw water from the sink bowl, useful for winterizing and also descaling the lines. Run a pressure pump after the tank for fresh water, and pressurize both your hot and cold water side off one pump, having running hot/cold water makes living onboard sooooo much more comfortable. Also plan on adding a tank level sensor or sight glass depending on where you are installing the tank. I would suggest a NMEA 2000 connected monitor for all tanks, especially fresh water and diesel. Monitoring usage is important, and you will want some modern electronics (in addition to the obvious benefits, they also use significantly less and easier wiring than older basic or analog devices). You can get a engine monitoring box that takes engine analog sensor data and shares it on your NMEA buss, which allows you to use minimal numbers of screens and displays around the boat since they can all be multi functional and access any data point you need. A well thought out and designed modern electronics system requires many fewer displays and screens than older gear, and does much more at the same time.

[@wvonfricken]

all good info, but engine start bat and house bank will be different in their charging needs. look into sterling pro-split r unit and a remote programable charge controller.

[@fpnbrian]

@@wvonfricken dual charging systems are certainly ideal, but a simple ACR would serve their needs well enough and are significantly cheaper. $100 vs $750+

[@jeffwisemiller3590]

Blue Sea Systems rock! I use their stuff on everything up to 60'. Those ACR's are sweet & eliminate the problems an isolator causes (voltage drop & no excitation).

[@garryturgiss8551]

Guys, I love what you're doing. I watch a lot of sailing videos and every single one talks about electric and water usage. But it all boils down to comfort. There are a TON of great points made in the comments for this post. Please take heed. Don't work this hard now so every future day on the water is a struggle. I get the ruggedness manly thing. I do. But don't forget, most of those rugged men of yesteryear died at 40. And finally my 2 cents. Look into a heat exchanger for you motor it will give it a longer life.

[@Phyde4ux]

That dude needs to get a legit facemask. It was like watching someone hike up his baggy pants every 30 seconds.

[@bubblehead78]

Exactly. I had to stop watching because of this.

[@NateGoesOutside]

Have fun in the desert! It’s beautiful in the winter!

[@hansc.4175]

Guys, get Dave Gerr's book, "Boat Mechanical Systems" if you haven't already. You'll want it on board anyway when you go a-voyaging. :-)

[@amphihill]

Glad you are using a mechanical Diesel. !!!! First time you need to bleed-out an injector for fuel, you will wish for a drip pan. You WILL want and need a drip pan with an absorbent roll. Also, hot water from the engine is a no brainer, and you will love it. When you plan your 12 V system. Triple the amperage calculated, for batteries. then use a a heavy duty alternator (300 amp). Hell, bilge pump.... double it up and have a high volume one as the emergency back-up. Lot more to consider. Good Job A2A.

[@schuttrostig5729]

Usually you also need water for the lavatory and outlet for the greywater.

[@schuttrostig5729]

@Charlie K that is what i was writing: they need an inlet for wc as well, not only engine and sink.

[@jamesbaumann1180]

Pan under engine, dual fuel filters, upgrade the alternator, over build the batteries, and a mask for that guy. Good stuff here!

[@gregoryheim9781]

Here's a fun drinking game: Take a drink every time Brook pulls his face covering up. You'll be SMASHED 20 minutes after the video ends.

[@sdspivey]

Either put it on correctly, or just take it off.

[@Transit_Biker]

@@sdspivey Or buy a mask ;)

[@fromonhigh891]

You'll be blacked out 20 minutes before the video ends!

[@buffplums]

Those knees are a work of art

[@silentferret1049]

I always have hated when they paint the engine assembled like. The rubber lines and other simple bolt on parts that are not a main part of the engine (aka parts that will be expected to be replaced or taken off for maintenance like the oil filter. It just damages the paint for chipping later. Its a cheap paint method which just causes problems later.

[@starchaser2489]

A friend of mine purchased a sail boat in Mexico, 40 foot Passport. We started our journey in San Diego to Monterey California. We used the engine while underway. She was very slow moving north against the wind and currents. We made it to Santa Barbara in seven days. Spent the night resting to leave at 3am to go thru Point Conception and very large waves. We made it to San Simeon, then the engine quit running. We checked the fuel filter and it was filled with debree from the fuel in the tank. The engine would not run after many attempts and the batteries were drawing down. So we raised the sails up and she was happy to go. But the winds were not blowing enough to move us forward. It took another week and a half to get to Monterey Bay California. After a long journey we had a Marine Mechanic on board to help us. Removing the inspection cover on the fuel tank he discovered a very thick layer of Mud on the bottom. He told us why this mud is in the fuel tank. Mexico fuel trucks also transport water. Dirty water with mud left over, mixed in with Diesel fuel spell Disaster. So traveling around to differant countrys you need to be able to inspect your fuel tank for mud removal such as this. It took us 3 weeks to get home, best time ever while on Vacation. I also agree with others on a catch pan under the engine. Using your timber as a mold for composite's is very easy to make. Put packing tape over your timber and Partall Wax on then apply the Fiberglass on. Apply Gel-coat over your part. Then peal it up and away, remove tape and drop your pan in. Perfect fit, no welding, no rust and cheap to make. If you have problems pulling it out, drill a small hole thru the glass and hit it with air. Fill in the holes with a glass patch and Gel-coat. ────────────────────░███░ ───────────────────░█░░░█░ ──────────────────░█░░░░░█░ ─────────────────░█░░░░░█░ ──────────░░░───░█░░░░░░█░ ─────────░███░──░█░░░░░█░ ───────░██░░░██░█░░░░░█░ ──────░█░░█░░░░██░░░░░█░ ────░██░░█░░░░░░█░░░░█░ ───░█░░░█░░░░░░░██░░░█░ ──░█░░░░█░░░░░░░░█░░░█░ ──░█░░░░░█░░░░░░░░█░░░█░ ──░█░░█░░░█░░░░░░░░█░░█░ ─░█░░░█░░░░██░░░░░░█░░█░ ─░█░░░░█░░░░░██░░░█░░░█░ ─░█░█░░░█░░░░░░███░░░░█░ ░█░░░█░░░██░░░░░█░░░░░█░ ░█░░░░█░░░░█████░░░░░█░ ░█░░░░░█░░░░░░░█░░░░░█░ ░█░█░░░░██░░░░█░░░░░█░ ─░█░█░░░░░████░░░░██░ ─░█░░█░░░░░░░█░░██░█░ ──░█░░██░░░██░░█░░░█░ ───░██░░███░░██░█░░█░ ────░██░░░███░░░█░░░█░ ──────░███░░░░░░█░░░█░ ──────░█░░░░░░░░█░░░█░ ──────░█░░░░░░░░░░░░█░ ──────░█░░░░░░░░░░░░░█░ ──────░█░░░░░░░░░░░░░█░

[@raylansall6764]

Tried to count how many times that Brook had to pull up his mask.. could have used a little crazy glue on his nose….LOL!!

[@Bialy_1]

Now count all other comments that are identical as yours... can't read and like one of them before you make your own?

[@raylansall6764]

Now that was kind of rude…you seem to have an attitude problem at times.@@Bialy_1

[@Joseph-lx5js]

I’m looking forward to next weeks episode!

[@grahamtotte7133]

Watching this guy having to pull his mask back up every 5 seconds drove me up the wall.

[@gregoryschmidt1233]

Then when he gets sick from constantly touching his face, he'll say, "See? Masks don't work!"

[@grahamtotte7133]

@@gregoryschmidt1233 you can't keep out a mosquito with a chain link fence

[@gregoryschmidt1233]

@@grahamtotte7133 That's why I wear N95's. Not a cotton bandana hanging half off my face.

[@cwgarr]

Several comments here. First 100 amps of 120 VAC not in any way equivalent to a 100 amp 12 VDC alternator output. Might need to upgrade your info. Next, in addition domestic water off the engine you can get some comfort heat as well, while the engine is running of course, and could have some heat after the engine is shut down if you wanted to. Happy to diagram this if you are interested. Would suggest, as a matter of future planning, that you consider at least upgrading the alternator to a larger output model- which at the most basic level will reduce the amount of time required to recharge the batteries. Amazing amount of very skilled work on view. Those recovered knees are incredibly beautiful- hope there is a way to make them visible. Your videos are a feature of my Fridays and I will be investing in some merch soon. Have a great time off, glad to see Alix back and will be incredibly anxious to see the progress when you guys start doing them again Best to all of you, give Akiva a head scratch for me.

[@Nerd3927]

Better give it a little more thought. The engine's second most important function is electrical power. With fast charging Lithium batteries there is no real need for a separate generator anymore. Cooking on induction safes so much bother with filling gas bottles in foren countries. Going the other way with oil lamps and alcohol burners is less complicated of course :-)

[@karstenlindberg6033]

Hello from Denmark. Love your channel. I agree 100% in keeping it simple and traditional. I have sailed about 20000 offshore miles in various boats, some modern, some traditional, some engineless, and in my experience the fun is inversly proportional to the complexity of the boat. Electricity and salt water dont go very well together. When in port, while our neighbours were busy repairing their multiple systems, we were off exploring the countryside or interacting with the locals. The comfort might be spartan, but you quickly get used to it, and enjoy the additional freedom. The only complexity I would insist on is the self steering wane. The engine is a nice safety feauture, does it have a decompression lever so you can handcrank it? I wouldnt bother moving the filters and oilpump, a man with Steves selfdicipline will keep that baby A1, no matter where the filters are. And remember Don Streets words: under the engine is the only place in a wooden boat where you never find rot, on account of the oil drips! Happy continuation.

[@AcornToArabella]

Ah! Someone who thinks like we do! Nice to hear. Less complexity means more enjoyment... to a point ;) We are going to add amenities relative to their use/need and complexity level. It's all a bell curve with pros and cons!

[@denniswilliams8747]

You will probably want a small inverter for the probably rare need of 110 or 220 volt maybe for a water desalination system or something else

[@rogersaller7461]

Well deserved break Steve! Like idea of keeping Wood Knees - keep it traditional!

[@th3k1ngofchina]

100 amps on a 12v DC system is light years different than 100 amps in your workshop (presumably 110v AC). If a second alternator is financially feasible, it's cheap insurance and will ensure a robust electrical system

[@RAGproduction]

That engine looks delicious

[@Laz_Arus]

In the next episode, viewers ask ... "where's Steve?" 😁

[@kevinwatson5833]

Great to see good companies out there and have a good vacation guys

[@rrebaza]

That Guy should have used a Proper Mask. he keeps adjusting that cloth..

[@noelnicholls1894]

A non-believer, just doing the minimum.

[@BobBobson]

I was looking for this. He adjusts it at 16:01, again at 16:07, and again at 16:12. If you need to adjust something every few seconds, maybe you're using the wrong thing.

[@cynthiaverjovskymarcotte1379]

Bugging the hell out of me.

[@gregoryschmidt1233]

@@noelnicholls1894 And then after a few dozen times of transferring the germs on his hands to his face by constantly needing to adjust his "mask", he'll get sick and say, "See? I wore a mask and I got sick anyway. Masks don't work!"

[@pavelow235]

Thats the most beautiful motor block I've ever seen!

[@alexjackson7809]

The engine man needs to buy a mask.

[@markfisher2224]

I think they should all lose the masks all together.

[@alexjackson7809]

@@markfisher2224 And why would that be?

[@markfisher2224]

@@alexjackson7809 because the mask is useless against a virus.

[@alexjackson7809]

@@markfisher2224 probably a scarfe would be, but a proper mask protects lives, that’s why surgeons use them in operating theatres. Look what’s happening with Covid-19 in USA & Brazil compared to most of the world. Lease support your argument with a proper scientific reference and I might believe you.

[@davidmurn772]

If you're having to touch your face every 10 seconds to adjust the mask, you may as well just not bother wearing it.

[@eppot1]

love the knees!!

[@promielex]

get that guy a mask like yours so that he won't have to reset it every three seconds.

[@bullettube9863]

My experience with boats is mechanical as I used to service various engine types. Steve you are right about accessibility! I hated boats where the basic maintenance items were hard to reach, especially anything liquid like oil and fuel. Not only can they ruin a wood boat, they are fire hazards! If you intend to sail on salt water, I would suggest a closed cooling system with a radiator/fan setup using something like "Evans Cool" as a coolant. Evans cool is water-less and will never corrode the inside of the engine. This will also eliminate holes in the hull, a source of leaks in every boat I ever worked on. You can also route the hot water to heat the cabin. You will need two air intakes: one for the engine (you don't want to suck your cabin air!) and one for the radiator/general air intake. The exhaust should be a low pipe for calm seas, and a high exhaust pipe for rough water. A good, high amp alternator (or two!) and multiple non lead marine batteries with at least 100% redundancy is a must. Two fuel tanks is also a good idea with a filler pipe on deck, and of course a fume extractor and at least one bilge pump are legally required by the US Coast Guard. You can buy good, inexpensive electric water heaters made for RVs and boats at any marina. Talk to people who have gone on long voyages, they will tell you hot water is a must, plus a big morale booster!