Replacing a Timing Belt on a 1.8t VW or Audi

[@Deutscheautoparts]

Timing Belt Kit w/ Roller www.shopdap.com/06a-198-119-b.html Find all the parts for your VW or Audi! - www.shopdap.com/ - We appreciate your Support and Purchases! -

[@RobertAdairWorkshop]

It's refreshing to see a video that shows the whole process on the TT and all the struggles that go with it. That bracket is an absolute bear. I fight it every time. Thanks for making this and sharing it with us all.

[@novi0974]

I'm glad it wasn't just me :-)

[@bestbuildpc]

if u push down it can go easy insted of pulling up.

[@cybilized6853]

Thank you for this video. This video is the ONLY one I found that actually helped me from start to finish without any gaps where it was stopped to avoid showing the difficult parts.

[@toddtrumbore2502]

I can't thank you enough for this video covering the timing belt replacement on the Audi TT 225. I'm a pretty experienced mechanic, but the job would have been much more difficult without your excellent comprehensive video. Very much appreciate your efforts!!

[@vincentamoranto782]

I watched this video, 10x. Finally replaced the TB / WP on 01 Audi TT, first time doing this but it was worth it. It took me 1.5 days as I was extra careful but worth it, learned so much. I struggled with the engine bracket, taking it out & putting back. What I had to do not mentioned in the video: - removed the dog bone underneath - had to loosen the engine mount other side & put two jacks to lift the engine on both side to free up space - matched all 3 for TDC, camshaft marker, crank pulley marker & flywheel marker to be really sure I lined it up correctly & not mess up my timing / valves Most challenging car task I've done but very satisfying when it came out good. Thanks for all the good car DIYs in KZbin !!!

[@noel5ilv3rlake]

Hi, please tell me the way you install the “damn bracket “ in I mean from the upper side or bottom side? I’m going to loosen up the dog bone a bit too Thanks, I’ll be appreciated

[@MB-xp6yh]

One tip when doing this procedure: there are 2 holes on the serpentine belt tensioner (pretty much like on the hydraulic tensioner for the timing belt) and you can stick a small allen key or something similar in between to set the tensioner so that it doesn't push on the belt, so that you can route the serpentine belt back without the need to counterhold it all that time ;)

[@bassmunk]

Yup. If you pay attention there are little details like this where VW/Audi make your job way easier.

[@josephreeff3843]

Good to know, thank you! I wish i knew that when i changed my serpentine belt yesterday haha

[@adamkorekach9936]

Gonna have to check that out!

[@cherokeebriggs510]

Genius

[@Pali4life2]

Boy this brings back some memories, 17 years old with my first 1.8t All I had done before was oil changes. Tough job but you can do it with basic tools and the VW forums. Just pay attention to details!!

[@pandahz79]

ManofOth bro this journey is unfolding in front of me and my homie we just purchased 03 golf gti with the 1.8t and we got it for a steal because of the water pump leaking so we just attempted to replace it today. Wish we watched this video before hand because the timing was all out of wack and I have to fix that tomorrow

[@osirisfornever9127]

@@pandahz79 and how did that go? Lol

[@pandahz79]

Tbh that was probably my second time wrenching on a car. Ran into a snag or two, nothing that a lil bit of team work couldn’t handle. After learning about the timing marks is what really helped. This video taught me how to keep the timing in check. It’s just a pain to work in such a tiny area. Do not be afraid to jack your motor up and down given that you remove the motor mount on the passenger side if I remember correctly. Do what you have to to make space. I used a shop rag on the end of a long pry bar several times to help. I’ve worked on quite a few more cars and even dirt bikes since that vw and I would say this wasn’t all that hard mayb 5 or 6 out of 10 on the pain in the ass scale. I recently just had to replace a torque converting solenoid in the transmission of my 2001 cadlliac Seville sls

[@osirisfornever9127]

@@pandahz79 that's cool! What do u mean by out of whack? My freind just bought a 1.8t Jetta cheep with the timing belt already removed and motor mount off so I'm trying to make sure that it will be ok if I'm 180% out I've already turned the motor by the crank pulley a few times to make sure theirs no resistance and it went extremely smooth but idk if I'm 180% out and if I am and try to start it would it damage it but I think it work!

[@pandahz79]

There should definitely be lil markings on the fly wheel and the case of the engine you have to make sure all your timing marks line up before and after you slide the belt on. Can be tricky but just be patient and do your research until you understand what goes on. I’m very sorry as I can’t remember the exact procedure for the Jetta. That was months ago and I have worked on so many engines since then plus I do full time hvac installs so I’m kinda blanking I’m exactly where you need to look on that Jetta

[@tomthompson7400]

Perfect video , well explained , clear audio , fantastic camera work , and well lit. A very professional result , extremely well explained and packed with information , even down to the torque settings .

[@wbaigfly]

Great DIY procedure. I just did this yesterday on my 2001 Audi TT 225 and everything went as expected. The engine mount bracket took 45 min to get out, tried all the angles, raised/lowered the engine...finally came out the bottom. Put it back the same way, from the bottom. The whole process took about 4-5 hours with a lunch break.

[@Jaxson8157]

Thanks for this! Going to do my 01 180 and wanted a real idea on how long it will take!

[@wbaigfly]

@@Jaxson8157 Depends upon your skill level and available tools. If you've tackled similar jobs before, this should take 3-4 hrs to complete...good luck.

[@marcooconnor]

@wasim How did you get the bracket in? Did you lower the engine? I cannot get it in at all..tried for over an hour from bottom and top.

[@wbaigfly]

@@marcooconnor After you disconnect the engine mount, use a jack to raise/lower the engine to give just the right angle to remove the bracket. It literally to about 45 minute just to remove the bracket, gently moving some of the plumbing pipes/hoses out of the way.

[@marcooconnor]

Yep i can get the bracket out. Its getting it back in which i cannot do. The hydraulic tensioner is always in the way. Just wondering if you had to lower the engine significantly to get it back in. My only other option would be to remove the tensioner again and put the mount in first which i really dont wanna do!

[@madmechanic7641]

Little trick from an old spanner... Before you remove 4 x hex / allen bolts on crank pulley, give them a good tap on end with a metal drift / bar.. The shock often breaks the seal.. This also works if someone has rounded them before.. Good tapping with flat ended drift actually closes the end of the bolt thus gripping better.. : )

[@murphystreeter]

Great video. I had a Volvo years ago.... basically the same engine except it was a 5 cyl. Then my TT. I did mine the same way except for one step. I'd like to make life easier on all of you. If you do the pump as well, remove all of the BS and leave the motor mount until last. It comes out through the bottom. NOW.....when you reassemble there's one modification you must make. Take a cut off wheel and chop off the stand off on the water pump. It is for one timing cover bolt. That bolt is not necessary. Removing the stand off allows you to reassemble the entire engine minus serpentine. Release the pressure on the tensioner, the wiggle the motor mount up frome below. You'll need to play around to get the engine in the right spot. I'm telling you friends, that motor mount is nearly IMPOSSIBLE to remove. Good luck!!

[@noel5ilv3rlake]

Good idea and can be my last battle pass! Thanks

[@iyliparoidiamonds]

best video on the internet for this. very well explained. just bought my TT mk2 and decided to also change the timing belt as it has no history of it being done.

[@DaytonCarCare]

Whomever is doing this job get a good quality name brand tensioner. I recently did a B7 2.0t, with the customer supplied parts, and the tensioner was defect. It jumped a few notches and put it out of time. Fortunately it didn't do any damage to the valves. I replaced with a OEM Audi stamped brand and running well again.

[@froggy0162]

Another fun gotcha is water pump seals are lubricated by the coolant. If you start the engine to check your work before filling it with coolant, you run the risk of destroying your brand new water pump. This can even be a risk if you don’t open a bleed screw to ensure the coolant doesn’t have a air lock in the block around the pump...

[@EdwarddrawdE]

Excellent video! Was able to follow each step on my 225 and the execution was flawless! Definitely the mount bracket was a PITA but the rest was pretty straight forward. Thank you very much for taking the time to make this video!

[@neelmehta100]

I just changed my timing belt on my audi S3 8L 225hp. I am not a mechanic and have never done this type of work. As a matter of fact, no technical experience. It took me 12 hours straight with no breaks. I did not even sit down for a minute. Removing the power steering bottle on the S3 with the same engine is necessary. I managed to get the lower bracket off by removing the tensioner pulley and leading it under the engine bay. Of course, it is important to paint on the belt before removing it. But with that, it came of very easily (had to jack the engine up a bit). After the bracket was removed, I continued the same way. Before putting the new pulley in, I lined up the bracket and the new belt and then I inserted the new pulley. I guess that was a mistake because putting the new belt on was a pain. The rest was straight forward. Don't let the hoses scare you. It really isn't that much. Just somehow looks like a lot on that video. Don't forget to get new bolts for your engine mounts. For the TT and the S3, it is 7 new bolts altogether. For me it was: 2 times - N10209603 2 times - N10516701 1 times - N10328002 2 times - N90712403

[@bestbuildpc]

I did it today and that bracket was painful but instead of pulling up I put it down. it was the best idea. It won't struggle anymore for sure.

[@miatalife94]

I replaced the engine in a Mk4 GTI that I bought from a friend after he blew it, pulled a good motor from a Passat and the major differences were hard coolant lines which had to be swapped but I did the timing belt and water pump with the good engine out and it wasn't terrible just nerve racking before the first startup most major maintenance I've ever done on a vehicle and I feel like I can do anything now😂, pull two engines to put in one good one

[@hobart0011]

It took me 2 hours to get that engine mount out. I wish i found this video sooner

[@B5Garage]

Im glad i made my choice with an a4 b5, just got to remove the front bumper and radiator to get started. I will use this video for the actual swap eventhough it's pretty straight forward

[@robgray3725]

Really nice video, with no corners cut and great commentary. I've recently bought a 2005 TT with the 225hp, assuming it would be simpler to work on than my B5 S4 which I've had for 15 years. Looks like I was wrong! This makes changing the TB on a 2.7 V6 look easy in comparison. Fortunately the TB on the TT has been done recently, so I can prepare myself mentally for a while before starting. Nothing is easy on either of these cars, but I do love owning and driving them...

[@dorkultra]

I got to about 7 mins in and said, no way i'm ever going to attempt this. Respect

[@aw614]

exactly how I felt when I watched part of this and Sarah N Tuned's 1.8t timing belt install on her 225 TT lol. so many little things that make it easy to make a mistake.

[@DaytonCarCare]

Actually it's pretty easy, just take your time. The most import part is getting the timing marks correct and double checking by manually rotating the engine. I find the 1.8T one of the easiest engines to work on. I've completely removed an engine from a mark 1 TT and swapped in a good short block since the original had a blown cylinder. Since it was a FWD model it had the same 06A block as a VW Jetta so finding a replacement was easy and low cost.

[@BWSTT]

Its great when someone makes a guide for a process that they are also learning at the same time… “what i found was” is a clear indicator of that. Oh that and the fact that he pulled the pin before doing a test rotation is another classic rookie error…. OH and the engine mount fiasco….

[@ianwilkinson652]

Killer diy Paul. Gotta love the 1.8t attention 😁😁😁

[@spencersandman6728]

Great video, clear, concise, well lit. A pleasure to watch. Thank you

[@kwikmechanic6844]

This is a very good video paying attention to all the details including some GREAT tips. A great resource for DIY’ers

[@ToModorNottoMod]

I have never changed a timing belt on a VW/Audi and today I was able to do it just with your video. Thanks for the help specially for including the torque figures. Appreciated. Keep it up.

[@cadenstarr9518]

Pro tip, if you strip out your Allen heads on your crankshaft pulley like I did, hammer a 12 point 12 mm socket on the bolt and use an impact to screw it out. There is minimal clearance between the Allen heads and the large crank bolt so you need to hammer the socket on hard and get in as deep as you can. Good luck!

[@hungrychowhound11612]

I find that with a small amount of gasoline and a couple of matches it solves many problems. Then again.... Paul intresting videos. I did mine this past summer on my 05 gli mk4 1.8t with automatic. The engine mount bracket was to say the lease the mother of all pains in the ass, not to mention getting the thing back in. The car survived my repair so far, and running. Fir the time being. My wife hid my matches from for now. But she did say if it requires a major repair again she'll hand over my matches and we can get this wiener roast going. Again. Nice work.

[@marcooconnor]

I was going to ask..how did you get it back in? I am completely stuck. Can you remember if you got it in from the bottom or top? Not sure if you need to raise the engine super high or what..

[@hungrychowhound11612]

@@marcooconnor it wasn't easy to be honest. I got stuck quite a few times try to get it out and back in. Here's the the thing about all these videos on this subject it seems no tells you much less shows you how to do this part of the diy. It may work for you, it sounds lousy it it's the way I got it in. Make sure the belt is on along with the tensioner. I lowered the motor down on the psg side to work the bracket in. Slipped a bolt to hold the bracket on (loosely) raised up a little at a time and fought with it for a while. End result I got it back together. It's been over 2 years since I did it. The car has since been long gone. When it left it was running fine, but there was a basket of things to still do and after that I really didn't want to go through any more stuff with the car. So I went and bought a gti. A 2013... So far so good. It is a difficult job on the mount. Not much room. Raise it lower it and you can only get it through the bottom make sure you use new bolts for the mounts. Can't reuse the old ones, make sure the mount is aligned properly. Good luck.

[@marcooconnor]

Thanks mate. Much appreciated. Yeah i know the feeling regarding the amount of jobs needing doing on the car! Takes up way to much of my personal time now.

[@audiwankenobi361]

Can't wait to get home and watch this!

[@Spoolybuildz]

Thanks so much for this video, brought me great success! This looks incredibly intimidating at first, but trust me, watch it 4-5 times and it becomes easy as pie. took me a few hours, but it was a success. That engine mount bracket is a real bum though. I found that it is actually easier to drop it down through the engine. And then reinstall it from the top.

[@Wizzdom.motorsport]

Hi, you can get a tensioner removal bolt Lol. 55mm m6 I think and a nut (see other 1.8t vids like exovcds) Damper in the vice! Use the bolt & there is no need. Many other vids show this. Also timing belt removal not exactly the same as 2.0 tfsi engines. Thanks for the conent. I have made use of some of your other vids & they were all helpfull. Sometimes to see what not to do lol.

[@4npushap352]

I’ve done this process so many times I still dread it I started the process last weekend and like have to psych myself up to finish lol

[@DoctorWonka]

One video recommended a beer or two. NOW I know why!

[@isaacscopes235]

just helped me finish everything , went smooth watching this video

[@jamdc2000]

VW: how many hoses do we put in this engine bay? Engineers: EVERYONEEEEEE!!!!

[@KamilK3]

VW: how many hoses do we put in this engine bay? Engineers: Yes

[@scirockalot8v]

Oh the memories.

[@nicolasb5584]

Fantastic video, hugely helpful. Just finished the cambelt change on my S3 (8l).

[@bobby2428]

Awesome DIY instruction. Thanks for this! It also made me miss my 225 TT.

[@ich1bann]

Just did the job following your steps car runs great..thanks

[@kanetheriot3204]

Just received my timing belt kit (timing belt, tensioner, tensioner pulley, H2o pump, thermostat, thermostat housing, serpentine belt, new hardware, o-rings and gaskets). Starting this job the day after tomorrow. I'm a little concerned about the Continental belts however...it is marked as 'made in Mexico'. I may be mistaken, but I thought I remembered Continental being a German manufactured product.

[@shamelessape1]

I like your assumption that I will make it to a test drive after this job. :D

[@chriseason4008]

I'm hoping there is slightly more clearance for the engine mount on my s3, but I have absolutely no doubt I will be swearing more than him.

[@Flash81_]

I'll be doing my Leon Cupra next weekend, there will be many swears 😂

[@RvpCro]

@@Flash81_ soo how did it go? engine still in one piece x) ?

[@johne6081]

Pro tip for AUG and AWM engines (longitudinal B5/5.5 Passat): replace the failure-prone hydraulic plunger / tension idler assembly with the Audi AMB-style manually-tensioned idler. Conversion kits are readily available for these engines, but I can't speak for the transverse-mounted 1.8T shown in this video.

[@MrHeHim]

got 290k miles on my 03 Auti TT 1.8 AWP and i'm about to change the timing belt (again, every 75k miles) and never knew that was an option. That'll be nice if i do it on someone's car with lower miles where spending the little extra would mean they could go back to the original service schedule of 105k miles. From what I'm aware they changed it to 75k (some kits call to replace at 50k) because of failing tensioners and maybe water pumps idk

[@johne7345]

@@MrHeHim The other factor besides mileage accumulation is age, which is the usual reason I replace mine well before 75K miles.

[@gplusgplus2286]

Started with this as a guide and gave up at the bracket. This thing beat me despite getting the engine sky high. I will try a guide that says first remove the belt and then the bracket will drop down instead of trying to pull it upwards. EDIT: The video shows unecessary suffering. You remove the belt with screwdriver (with tensioner still in place) from crank pulley and water pump, a little at a time. Then the bracket can be dropped from below.

[@buddysshop1860]

I like that magnetic led light bar 💕

[@Mellchior]

I remember doing this job on my MKV GTI with a single piece timing cover. Getting that engine mount bracket out is such a PITA. I still have the car and will probably end up doing this job again I'm guessing. That timing belt cover will get cut away this time and replaced by a two piece...

[@timdodd3897]

Thanks! Reminded me of doing my '82 V.W., that was a quick job.

[@scflooring8658]

Good trick with zip tie!!

[@johne7345]

Wow -- I had no idea a TB change would be so much more difficult on a TT than on my 2001 (B5) Passat or my son's 2002 (B6) A4.

[@stevenrios6849]

Muy bueno 👌 amount of space when doing transverse mounted 1.8ts is No bueno 😞 but i still love these engines ❤️

[@tm199100]

You wouldn't be afraid of it skipping time when you removed the tensioner, if you used timing locks.. yes you can get the job done without them. However, for me, and I emphasize, FOR ME, it's not worth the trouble.. just buy the locks and be safe :)

[@buddysshop1860]

I've become more confident and just make my own timing marks now. So much easier.

[@dumbeezy5480]

Not sure what tools you’re referring to for the 1.8t.

[@akliludebas9001]

Clear and simple one of the best video 10q man

[@thelol1759]

Wow, I’m literally buying parts to do this job right now! What are the odds!

[@ChunkyChipz]

that harbor freight BRAUN hood light are pretty good.

[@erikaepler8597]

Thank god I didn’t change the timing belt myself on my Skoda octavia 1.8t! Thank you for the vid. I was wondering if I should do the next timing belt on my car but I guess I’ll pass

[@johne6081]

I've done four, two 1.8Ts and two 2.7T/2.8 V-6 Audi engines, with my sons. It helps to have someone assisting and checking your work as you go.

[@timeshotvids4539]

Extremely helpful video easily the best on KZbin, I'm doing my 1.8t next week would you recommend a plastic or metal water pump?

[@PeterFeltersnatch852]

Honestly what kind of question is that... Plastic or metal? 🤷

[@ianway1742]

On the MK1 TT, the engine mount drops out easier underneath rather than taking it out from the top, not sure about other cars using the same platform.

[@farid7968]

Always a pleasure to watch your videos . One question as we could see clearly. How do you set the tensionner roll once in position ( some tensionner have a mobile arrow to aline with a mark on the tensionner in order to set it at the right value) thanks for you response 🤓

[@iits_OG]

Ahhhh i remember doing this job on my tt as soon as i finished i was like fook it time for a new clutch ahaha

[@jm4gaming886]

I’m in middle of doing clutch, biggest ballache job I’ve ever done, never again

[@diydaveman]

When you started the vehicle at the end why was there smoke coming from the engine? Mine is also smoking like that after starting up. Thanks and great informative step by step video!

[@Kokaiinum1]

water resedue after the mess that gets hot and cook

[@USMC1970]

ok, I have a rebuilt head sitting in place, not torqued, and I have watched many videos on replacing the bad belt. As I look at my crank pulley through the wheel well, I see another belt that drives the Alternator, and AC compressor. Does this belt need to come off as well, or can I turn crank to TDC, and be ok? Or... do I still need to remove a motor mount to place the new belt? Great video By the way!

[@sol-hb8zg]

I got a Leon cupra and going to do the timing belt kit soon. What brand would you choose? From my research ina and gates are what I want but not sure out of these two

[@Sgouldrup89]

Great vid. Oddly enough, the forward most engine mount bracket bolt is a 21mm while the other 2 are 16mm.

[@andrewthag]

mine is a 16mm

[@Jackinacox]

After watching this, changing timing belts on a longitudinal engine looks easier, even with the so called "service position"

[@Deutscheautoparts]

It sure is

[@Nothy]

Would this tutorial apply for a Skoda Octavia 1.8t 4x4 (1U facelift) as well?

[@avinashclt]

The 1.8t 150PS ARX engine on the Octy mk1 4x4 is fundamentally the same engine as shown in this video, so it should be applicable. Things that vary on the 4x4 ARX engine like a different turbo oil line etc shouldn't affect this job.

[@raymondrizzuto7997]

I would use silicone spray on the water pump o-ring to make it go in more easily.

[@arthurdejager1775]

Thanks for the video it really helped

[@eddherring4972]

Is this the same procedure for replacing the head after a snapped cam belt? Obviously align both halves of the engine, lock and then fit belt.

[@leejones1515]

You forgot the washer behind the tensioner. You can see the belt position is on the inside edge of the cam sprocket. It should be on the outside edge, spaced with the washer. Good vid though.

[@gotwebsite1]

I bought the engine mount from Euro tuning this should work on the Audi TT 2006 FWD right? Thanks for your excellent video. I watched a few and yours is the best. I liked the up-close footage removing the impossible engine bracket. It finally came out by jacking the engine high enough and jerking it out.

[@JbsiN-ec3xk]

Thank you very much excellent explanation 👌👏

[@noel5ilv3rlake]

The problem is how to put the “support mount engine back “ after all this done first - this damn thing is terrible job for me than getting TB righty in the place - I need a week to just figure it out,no action yet because I’m not a mechanic , I need a pry bar and to jack the support engine from right side position as you as probably can help a bit of gap than jacking up from the front But I love this vid and how you explained well yeah pretty good advice in detail n “thank you so much” n next I n will be going to purchase another some parts from DAP when I got this thing done 🫡

[@froggy0162]

That tiny tiny little deflection pulley... The rotation speeds on it must be nuts - are they a weak link for longevity?

[@TTAutowerks94]

Great video man, thankyou I think I'll be able to do mine now :)

[@aidsy60]

Awesome tutorial. Is there much difference from this engine to an 2.0 AAX engine on a MkV Gti FSI?

[@lkz6696]

What about changing the camshaft oil seals, how much extra work is that and how difficult is it? Why not change those every time doing a timing belt change?

[@pyroboyswe]

thanks for the video !

[@theuntamablesloth7290]

Does the bracket on the engine that is difficult to remove need to come all the way out? With it loose I think I can get the tensioner and pulley out and new ones installed. Am I missing something?

[@scottyALtoys]

Great question that I have right now. I am stuck at removing the loose lower mount, and thinking like you that I can move the mount enough to get the tensioner out. Going to try it since I am really struggling with removal of the loose mount.

[@boosteddiesel1834]

Quick note to anyone doing this job, there’s no need to mark the timing belt with paint. It can be put on at any tooth. The timing marks are only required on the crank and cam. Painting the belt is a fiddly waste of time. Also can “anyone” confirm the effect of the paint chemicals on the rubber belt? Nah I didn’t think so, don’t risk it. I just did this job on a TT. Was a piece of piss.

[@dumbeezy5480]

It’s not a waste of time if it makes it easier.

[@somelousyluck]

When needing to take your car to someone else or a shop ( not a dealer) how much should I expect to pay in parts and then how much for labor, so that I have an idea of the correct price someone should be charging for the change. Also do some cars just require the bumper & radiator to removed in a 2003 A4? I’ve been told conflicting requirements.

[@waifuracer6516]

I love using this engine but anytime something goes wrong the parts are super f-king expensive... not to mention the constant sludge build up even with quality vw spec oil changed in 5k intervals... its a ticking time bomb even with the upgraded filter and i always let the turbo cool before switching off and even then it still builds sludge that i can see around the filler cap...

[@Kokaiinum1]

eh what, literally all the parts he used there besides the fancy engine mount, the belts and pulleys with pump and all that around is 200$.

[@two_number_nines]

Can 1.8 adr head fit on 2.0 abk block?

[@bestbuildpc]

My bolts were stripped. How can I remove them when they are in bad bad condition? Should I use T45?

[@kennywright8537]

I've just done the belt on my 2004 Skoda Octavia 1.8t (arx) The engine mount bracket is the worst part of the job, if you take the rubber bung out the top of the bellhousing there's a timing mark on the flywheel.

[@dnn1158]

And audi A/S3, Seat Leon 1.8T and Skoda Octavia 1.8T :D

[@blacksheep4001]

Doing this on my daughters gti and am thankful I drive a BMW 😂 so much easier to work on

[@superknuckle6510]

yea thats funny lol

[@gotwebsite1]

I watched a video that says mechanics hate to work on BMWs because whatever the problem is it could be 10 different very hard things to check in order to trouble shoot. kzbin.info/www/bejne/f2qYfaioe76Vqsk

[@lukecowell7516]

What is the marks on the belt for?? Lkke I've done my belt but I just used the timing marks supplied and it's fine

[@mrdarho4718]

Good job without using VW tools, but please, is it okay to jack the engine on oil sump? I saw some oil is around crankshaft - toothed belt sprocket, is there any oil leak from the sealing flange on the belt pulley side?

[@HERMIR]

How many hours would take for this job including the serpentine belt?

[@spinnetti]

Fun job... Was a lot easier on the longitudinal engines.

[@destructiveasylum13fab2]

Hey my water pump on that i bought looks very different app 1.8t. Also it cam with 3 seals to change i didn't see you say anything about the seals ?

[@travisparvinmlt4life]

Even after stating you would "flash" torque specks you did not on everything except the tensioners and motor mount. Everything else we need to go find on our own. Almost a good job

[@fixerman]

Is this a hydrolic engine mount, with oil inside?

[@joshua1608]

A good trick for hex bolts that are tight, I'd to strick the end of the bit with a hammer and shock the threads. Helps to Crack them loose...

[@Alton-x]

You got it easy with a LHD car, not so easy when you got the brake master cylinder getting in the way haha

[@Deutscheautoparts]

Wow I’m sure thats brutal on RHD cars

[@Alton-x]

@@Deutscheautoparts i used to work for Audi for a long time, when you do about 5 a week you get used to them but no they are not the funnest jobs, I never marked the cambelt like you do, I would use the visible marker on the cam pulley and the notch in the cam cover and after removing the crank pulley I would put a mark on the small crank pulley and the engine casing behind it, also on the top of the bell housing (under the coolant union) there is a rubber bung that can be removed to show a tdc mark on the flywheel with a notch in the bellhousing to check the engine is still at tdc👍

[@MGScarlet]

OK, helpful video, thanks for posting it. BUT, there's a different way, in fact, for me, the ONLY way I was going to get that damnable engine mount in or out. Maybe my car's engine is mounted a millimeter differently than this one, but there was no way it was going in no matter how much prying I did. There's other videos you can find on YT showing the other way, but the 'trick' is: 1. Unbolt the three bolts holding it to the engine. 2. Leave the engine mount in there loose. 3. Unbolt the tensioner and it's pulley and remove them. 4. At this point the engine mount literally just falls out of the car. 5. Assembly is the reverse of the above. Yes, it's a gigantic pain to install the tensioner with the engine mount there. But nowhere near the aggravation of trying to force the mount in afterwards.

[@srambickan]

Possible to change timing belt without removing water pump? Water pump was chanhed already..

[@thekoleroy_at_varsity4103]

May you do one for 2.0 FSI non turbo version

[@vincentwilson7311]

Can you do a video for the 2ltr tdi transporter timing belt

[@jeffmoffett3704]

Once you pull the pin is there a certain amount of clearance you need between the tensioner and bracket?

[@dumbeezy5480]

Nah the tensioner will do it’s job and push it up