Developing C-41 Film at home made easy

Check out my Street Photography zines & Lightroom Color Profiles: 👉 bit.ly/3QrSoq1
I am getting a lot of questions about developing film at home, so I thought it would be a good idea to make a video about how I develop color negative film at home. It is very easy and with the new CineStill TCS1000 it very simple to get the temperature spot on.
Hope you enjoy the episode, see you in the next video! :)
👉 Settings for low light STREET PHOTOGRAPHY:
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• Shooting from the hip ...
👉 How to master manual focus:
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👉 How I scan 35mm film | Part 1:
• How I scan 35mm film |...
👉How I scan 35mm film | Part 2
• How I scan 35mm film |...
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[@robkrauss]

FYI, the Cinestill device is just a Sous Vide machine, they are usually cheaper than the Cinestill branded one, you can buy a cooking one and achieve the same result.

[@gymnasticks]

I really love how calm your demeanor is. When I'm developing film I'm always in a state of panic, but you are so chill and I love that.

[@therealsirrobin]

Haha! What is the worst thing that, could happen? It's only film, nothing life threatening. 😁

[@loopyloomdesigns]

I’m the same 😂. I’m always going “WHERES THE THEMOMETER, WHERE IS IT” 😂

[@oliverlison]

How come? because of maintaining times when developing? I overshot one development recently by 30 seconds or so and the images still were perfect.

[@Rico-ns5dt]

😆after watching this I'm laughing like there's nooo way I can see myself just chillin like this without being stressed and 2nd guessing everything I did after I triple checked😂

[@revokdaryl1]

I suppose it depends on what was shot. I personally know someone who had a chance to photograph this woman. He only had one shot at doing this? You know what he did? He photographed her using both film and digital cameras. This way, if he messed up the film during the development process, he'd still have digital photos of the subject. She wasn't wearing any clothes. This is why he wanted to develop the film himself. Taking it to a lab wasn't an option for him.

[@spiderjuice9874]

Do you mean to tell me that all my film gear, which is gathering dust because I refused to get rid of it, even when everyone told me that I was crazy, can be used again?? Well, this is fantastic!!

[@royhess1406]

you’re my hero. i recently started shooting my street photography on film; it cost me $50 to get three rolls developed and scanned. never again.

[@royhess1406]

Steve K lol i went out and bought an espn v550 😂

[@tnts999998]

I miss the time when film dev was everywhere. I missed it out totally because I was convinced I should make b&w pics to develop - that was stupid

[@user-ut1wl4gc2l]

Steve K that’s what I do

[@f__e__e__l__e__e__p]

This was a video which helped me a lot. Note from my side. Thermometer is all you need and most of the case sink will hold the temperature just fine. I keep my canisters with 'magic chemistry' in the fridge. Take them out, put in hottest tap water in your sink and with a bit of experience you will handle just fine. Thanks for great input and very professional video!.

[@dodahlberg]

After getting color film back from GOOD labs with spots and whatever else, I decided I should be able to do this myself. If there are spots and I processed the film, my fault. I've been developing B&W forever. I watched this, got the Tetenal, got the water heater, and my life has changed! It's so easy I don't know why I waited so long. :-)

[@davidw6108]

In the 90s i worked in a shop where it was my job to replace the chemistry in a kiosk machine. After about a year and a half of doing this once a week i developed a sensitivity to something in the photo chemicals. 25 years later if i go into the gardening section of a store, even a tiny whiff of the the chemicals they sell cause an instant, uncomfortable reaction. This is mostly like having a cold but ive heard people talking about chemical sensitivities suddenly getting bad to the point of causing significant health problems. Personally, I will wear a respirator when developing film but its probably an idea to at least have some ventilation.

[@josephvanas6352]

Always read the SDS sheets of the chemicals you are working with at least this closely. They will have all the info you need on if it is a sensitizer or even what type of respiratory protection you need at certain concentrations. I do a lot of stuff with 3d printing and some of the resins for the resin printers are pretty nasty sensitizers. There are stories of people working with them for a couple years without gloves then all of a sudden developing a terrible blistering rash with any skin contact with the resin. Just keep in mind that with any respirator you are going to need organic vapor cartridges to protect against most chemicals and even then you have to make sure the cartridge is rated for the chemical you are being exposed to. The other big mistake i see people making all the time is when wearing a respirator you need to be clean shaven. This is why the military does not allow beards facial hair interferes with the seal on tight fitting respirators. The big takeaway is if you are going to wear a respirator make sure its actually going to protect you from the chemical you are working with and that you have a good seal so it can keep that chemical out.

[@jonatascd_]

so, 20-25 films for this 1L of developer? amazing ! I think this is the third or fourth time I’m watching this video

[@Radio.Raptor]

Really nicely summed up video! I've been wanting to get into film photography and I feared c41 developing would be much scarier than this based the little I had heard about it. Now I wanna give it a shot!

[@theoldcameraguy]

I have only developed black and white before. I found this video super helpful. Thank you for walking through this process and giving me the confidence to tackle C-41 development!

[@talleyrand9442]

Thank you! Simplified the process. Getting ready to do the same. E6 would be helpful.

[@therealsirrobin]

👏

[@tnts999998]

Notice the tetenal magicbox e6 - 15E and it's great. It says 1 shot dev. but I develop 3 rolls from single box

[@inverseimagephotography5356]

I was taught that the Dev time should be the time you start pouring in the Dev to the time you start pouring in the Stop or Blix in the case of C-41.. not the time you pour out the Dev solution. Of course you will need to be ready to pour in the next solution in rapid succession, not messing with your mobile while the remaining droplets on your film cause processing blemishes.. now, here is a useful tip.. record a verbal cue for the complete process as an audio file on your phone, complete with countdowns to each key point in the process, and start that playing before you start with a countdown lead in the just follow your own verbal instructions in real time. It keeps your hands free to exercise the tasks. That's a bit of German logic, courtesy of the UK. 😮

[@James-gz6iq]

When pouring 102 solution into a Patterson tank (with two 35mm reels), you'll lose about 1~2 degrees in working solution temperature. It's best to use stainless steel tanks to develop color film. The alternative is to increase a sous vide from 102F to 103,104, or even 108 deg F as some people have used. The Paterson tank headspace will also cool down the chem as you agitate, the end result is 98 degrees by the time you finish with the first process.

[@andyvan5692]

Yes, Please do an E6 one, and not just 35 mm stock, but can you do some 120 as well.

[@grigorievoleg]

Thanks a lot for this video and all the details during film processing! Much appreciate how you share experience with newbies like me. Good luck with what you plan to do next!

[@The_Cold_Slither]

So I ruined my first batch of film lol! I'm actually not sure if I messed something up, or if it was my camera, or the scanning process or something with the chemicals. Regardless, I'm not giving up! I will perfect this!

[@therealsirrobin]

Mistakes happen! Yes, keep going! 👏

[@tnts999998]

I noticed your temperature control was.... not great not terrible. You need to keep the temperature of the chemicals (not the bath) to the exact 38C and keep it there. I do it by letting it bath for around 30 minutes. Always keep the tank in the bath. Only take it out for the liquid exchange. It's best to keep the temp of all liquids 38. See this page: analoguephotolab.com/mistakes-with-color-negatives/

[@hresto1]

In the 80's I use to find film developing so relaxing, C41, E-6. Paper, Cibachrome, Ektacolor and Ektachrome. The trick is cleanliness, consistency and contamination avoidance. There's the magic of unrolling the film and looking at the wet milky images.

[@MrMadwyn]

You made it look very easy and clean, no spills. I’d try it soon!

[@cdl0]

I like the idea of using a salad spinner to accelerate drying the film. Yes, please do show E6 processing.

[@wvideoyahoodk]

Now I feel calm starting to develop 😂 Great video. thanks

[@bruceklobeke5427]

When processing ANY film be sure the temperature of ALL chemicals AND WASH WATER are the EXACT SAME TEMPERATURE. If there is a temperature difference the result will be reticulation - the emulsion and the film base will expand and contract at different rates causing minute "cracks" in the emulsion. This will appear on your print as "larger grain" resulting in (probably) unwanted reduction of sharpness. - Bruce, former professional photographer.

[@ConstantThrowing]

I pronounce thermometer as ther-mom-it-er, but your pronunciation made me realise why the word is the way it is. It is a meter for measuring thermal stuff, a thermo-meter!

[@paultaylorphotography9499]

Thats actually far easier than I imagined I’ve done b n w before but always shied away from c41 thanks for this new sub for ya mate

[@therealsirrobin]

👌

[@DarrylCarey]

🤯..... Mind Blown ! .... Will have a go at this over the next few weeks :)

[@therealsirrobin]

Sure, especially considering the cracy prices in NZ, it's a very good idea. 👌

[@massimo790]

Thanks for your work and sharing your video! It's so helpful!

[@HerfingPug]

Thank you Kind Sir, that was marvellous and motivating.

[@MikeChesworthPhotography]

I always thought developing colour film was difficult, but you made it look very easy. Thanks for sharing this. 👍

[@eatshrots]

stupid me. I always agitated the whole tank and it always got messy. I even bought a tank that holds three 120 rolls and that got very messy and the rolls came out pretty bad too. I'm going to just use this technique of just spinning them without lifting the whole tank and flipping it like a mad man every 30 seconds. Also, after each time I would flip it, I would open the lid again and rotate as well. Just a real messy situation and I considered selling all my developing tools. Thanks to this I'm going to try again and save money because I was giving it to a photo shop.

[@therealsirrobin]

Yeah, that was the part that was really annoying and I am glad that it isn't really necessary. 🙏

[@ryans_life]

Excellent and very helpful video, thank you.

[@joehsu6975]

that cinestill machine can cook steak & fish also lol... btw, did not rinse between develop&blix, result as that smell

[@therealsirrobin]

There is no need for rinsing in between. 😉

[@vaneaauzeac4401]

@@therealsirrobin you can make a rinse for 30" to avoid cross contamination and prserve the chemistry you can use an android APP called Lab Timmer', it has pre determined timers for all colour processes

[@csabapapp8481]

@@vaneaauzeac4401 Isn't it necessary to rinse after the stabilizer too?

[@vaneaauzeac4401]

@@csabapapp8481 with condition to use distiller water and fotoflo

[@frankunterholz1726]

That fancy "temperature control" thing looks and sounds exactly like the "sous vide"-cooker I use. I have a model called aicok sv-8001. You can get those on ebay

[@frankunterholz1726]

I assume cinestill took an already existing sous vide cooker (that many amateur developers use) and got it produced with new label (and price tag ;-) )

[@RS-Amsterdam]

Great video, can you show us how you scan or maybe you have already a video about that ?? Thanks for sharing

[@therealsirrobin]

I already did videos on scanning. However, I will do an update one in the not so distant future. 👌

[@jameslane3846]

You didn't show us your pics! I also have the Cinestill temperature regulator, great thing

[@luissamaniego5064]

Great movie. Thank you very much. I am interested in the E6 development movie. I hope you do it.

[@therealsirrobin]

It's already on the channel!

[@stillben]

Messed up c41 for years. Tried tetenal, Bellini and kodak mostly with bad results. Going to try that Hong Kong lab next at 3 dollars a film cheaper than home processing.

[@Dncyx]

what do you do with the chemical once they're expired? do you just pour it down the drain or you have to dispose it specially?

[@tobiasx8312]

Vielen Dank für das tolle Video. Ich werde nächsten Monat mal mit der Entwicklung starten :)

[@therealsirrobin]

Danke dir Tobias! 🙂

[@tobiasx8312]

Vielleicht könntest du mir noch zwei Fragen beantworten: 1) Muss der Entwickler unbedingt in einem Lichtdichten Gefäß gelagert werden oder reicht auch ein normales? (Die Chemikalien werden natürlich dunkel gelagert, es geht nur um den Behälter) 2) Versteh ich das Richtig das du mit einem angemischten Liter Entwickler ca. 25 Filme entwickelst? Also mit dem Gesamten Kit dann ca. 63 Filme? Schon einmal vielen Dank 😊

[@grifter1964]

Excellent. Yes, please do E6

[@twistedl2009]

You made it look nice and simple, great video 😊

[@therealsirrobin]

Thank you!

[@jamesmiller7101]

awesome video, this is how a great tutorial should be. excellent.

[@therealsirrobin]

Thank you very much!

[@030SquadHC]

That is a nice looking souvid stick

[@krishs718]

A very nice informative video. But I have a few doubts: Can you explain what was added at 6:59 of the video from the translucent jug? Was it a distilled water or what is that fluid did you fill the Paterson Tank with ? Also how many films do you think can be developed with one Tetenal c-41 kit? Do these chemicals require to be stored in a room temperature or in a refrigerator? Please reply.

[@maxgreen6838]

Thanks, that's easier than I thought, I gonna try it :)

[@jameswelsh453]

Thanks for the excellent tutorial

[@AustenGoldsmithPhotography]

Great ! Nice n easy ! Does the stabiliser have a wetting agent to help avoid drying marks ?

[@therealsirrobin]

No, that's an extra step right at the end.

[@suzsiz]

I succeded on my first try. With a lomochrome film. So proud 😸

[@simonkeslake2782]

Great video, just ordered a Tetenol kit, have developed black and white but new to colour. I noticed that you didn't wash film after the stabiliser, is it not required un like black and white when using fixer?

[@therealsirrobin]

No, it's not required!

[@lenshiker]

whats the black cup? any link to that funny pot. thx! enjoy life stay healthy🙏🏻

[@therealsirrobin]

Thank you Max! 😊

[@MrBillboeing]

Very straight forward explanation. Good video ! Blix is nasty stuff, I had my own experience with it . Anyway nice to see it in a clean way. ✌🏼

[@markhopkinsphoto7257]

Thanks for the video. I have a stainless steel tank and reels that I used for black and white. Can I use it for color too?

[@therealsirrobin]

Sure, that also works for color.

[@analogadventures9869]

Great video!! Thank you! I really want to try developing my own film now!

[@therealsirrobin]

Go for it!

[@BmcN72]

Is tetenal one of the only products that require stabiliser ? Iv saw other vids where its not needed

[@alea6893]

Very helpful video! I have one question tho! What to do with the water from the pre-wash and in between washs?! Is it safe to just dispose in the sink?

[@wangdi6703]

Thank you for the great demonstration! how many times this chemical can use?and if the developing time will change after a few times uses?

[@therealsirrobin]

1L of mixed developer lastets me for more than 20 rolls but you have to compensate by adding time. How much is described in the manual.

[@domgreco7]

Really cool. Thanks for posting.

[@tonyb2760]

I would like to see E6 and it's cost. Thanks for sharing

[@simibimi3]

Eine Frage: I have ordered the exact same kit and in the instructions it shows that I can mix up different working solutions, i.e. 0.5 l, 1.0l or 2.5l. My question is if I only mix up 0.5l does that also get me that same amount of developments that it says on the box or does it have to be 2.5l for that to be possible? Danke im Voraus und LG aus Zürich

[@Mettyunuabona_]

Just do this. *HITS WITH DOUBT*

[@Malbailey670]

Thanks for the video very informative.

[@acharismaticfunnel4465]

Hey great video. What do are you using to spin the spools inside the tank?

[@miracleyacht__1538]

It comes with the tank.

[@benoitvermeulen8662]

Very interesting thank you. Is your method for shaking film the same as for black and white film? I imagine so? thanks :)

[@davidzaruba9501]

It would be great, if you make a video about developing Black and White film.

[@therealsirrobin]

Will do that for sure, should come first half of this year!

[@liberealistic9964]

After the closure of Tetenal ADOX is continuing this kit under the C-TEC 41 name.

[@GianpaoloCerato]

How much liquid do you put inside? It seems you pour it approximately

[@georgenevin6055]

also interested in this

[@miracleyacht__1538]

The patterson tank need 500ml for one roll (thats important or otherwise you will get stains from the air in your tank!) and 600ml for two rolls.

[@mp3remix171]

so u dont use a squeegee or any wipe in the negative when it hangs?? or any photoflo??

[@EMGKPhotographie]

Stabilizer = photoflow

[@marekmaje1426]

Very nice video ! So we one liter of chemistry we can go up to 25 rolls ? No need to replenish ? Is replenishing possible to save even more costs and make more rolls ?

[@aurelijusmorlencas6549]

I have a question. Can I mix one box of the Tetenal Colortec chemistry, but develop only 3-4 films, and the chemistry store without air for the next development? If yes, how long can the liquid be stored and how I need to store it right?

[@marcyuan97]

Hello Sir Robin. Welcome back.

[@therealsirrobin]

I wasn't gone.👏

[@kash390]

What it the quantity of each solution do you pour into the developing tank, can you provide details?

[@nemac23]

how long are you storing the chemicals for? or at which point would the age affect the result?

[@sccjono]

May I ask a stupid question? When you're agitating, are you just spinning in one direction or are you turning backwards and forwards?

[@benjaminmeaker]

Thanks for such a great video! Out of interest, how many rolls can you get through with all three chemicals and what do you do with the waste?

[@therealsirrobin]

I would say at least 50 rolls (35mm). I collect the drained chemicals and bring them to a special recycling facility.

[@benjaminmeaker]

the_real_sir_robin thank you! and is that 50 rolls for all the chemicals or do these have different shelf lives?

[@DGS140x]

Hey great tuto thanks, my film looks good, I’m just worried that I have some droplets on the negative, they will disappear after dry or I miss something?

[@therealsirrobin]

You have to use distilled water to mix the chemicals and then you should have no problems. 👌

[@nosylens]

@@therealsirrobin Distilled water. Confirmation I’ve been waiting for scrolling through the comments. I don’t recall hearing in the video which btw is a great tut. Look fwd to do my v first roll now. Thank you!

[@cfagil]

Hi, Enjoyed watching your video. I am gathering both gear and courage to develop my very first roll of C41 film using the Tetenal Color kit as well. I have one question in mind. My Paterson tank can take two rolls of film. I wonder if I use the same processing time for the two rolls as for one roll or do I need to give it more time for all three stages? Many Thanks.

[@therealsirrobin]

No, you can use the same time for 2 rolls. Even if it would be three rolls.

[@cfagil]

@@therealsirrobin Many Thanks.

[@filipwaeytens4017]

The cinestill TCS 1000 is basically a re-branded Sous-Vide . Just get a cheap sous-vide and you're fine.

[@LoveCultTO]

Great video Robin! I bought a 2L kit and decided to mix all the powder at once and put half away for later but I may have mixed the powder in 1400ml of water rather than the 1600ml recommended, and then topped it up with more water to make around 2L. Will this affect the agitation time when I am developing in my tank?

[@LennyCooke636]

I never heard about the Cinestill, thanks way cheaper than JOBO !

[@JuanKis]

Thank you so much for this video! It's not rocket science as I thought! I will try for sure! Just one quick question about the Cinestill gadget. What will be the advantages over a regular sue vide gadget where you can do C-41 and steaks? 😂

[@therealsirrobin]

Haha! Yes, it's super easy and most people should have no trouble developing color negative film at home.

[@JuanKis]

@@therealsirrobin So, if I'm buying a sue vide gadget I will do alright?

[@oJ862]

@@JuanKis the cinestill product looks very much like an already available sue vide product.

[@JuanKis]

@@oJ862 Thank you! I just bought one on AliExpress for $50! Thank you!

[@TheMistermike87]

Juan Kis it’s the same thing. I have one too. You’ll be fine.

[@nicolasfilsdejean]

Hello Sir Robin. Thank you for your video: seems simple enough but you do have mastered the procedure and the material. I have two questions: 1/what do you do wuth the chemicals once they're out of order?? and 2/do you just leave the film to dry or do you wipe it? Thans again for your videos

[@therealsirrobin]

Hello Nicholas. I can collect old chemicals in a cannister and bring it to a recycling facility that most cities in Germany have. And I don't wipe the film.

[@RichardSilvius]

Would love to see the E-6 version!

[@therealsirrobin]

It's online since a while. 🙂

[@stevensko5586]

how long do u keep ur chemicals, if u haven’t used it that much ? i mean both in the mixed bottles and the chemicals as them self. great videos btw. !!

[@all4fever]

Hi, thanks for sharing your work. Big Fan! One question, is this chemistry works fine with Vision 3 500T? No issue with rem-jet layer? Like with your other video (Tetenal chemistry)? Thank again!

[@therealsirrobin]

It's the same chemistry like in my other video. ✌️

[@cfagil]

Hi, In your new video for B&W film development, wetting agent is used for the last stage to avoid marks from hard water. Water marks did appear on some of my colour negatives using your process. I wonder can we use a wetting agent as well for the C-41 process? If yes, can we use the same wetting agent for both colour and B&W negatives. Many Thanks.

[@therealsirrobin]

I never use it when developing C41 because the stabilizer was mixed with distilled water. But of course you could also use it when developing color negative film.

[@cfagil]

@@therealsirrobin Thank you very much for the reply.

[@Goriza]

very helpful! Hope see more "how I shoot"👍👍👍

[@therealsirrobin]

Will come later this year!

[@brunomartelli8163]

yes please make a video about developing fuji velvia 50

[@therealsirrobin]

Velvia is unlikely, I don't shoot landscapes and for people Velvia isn't a good choice.

[@brunomartelli8163]

Sorry i forgot.

[@therealsirrobin]

No worries. I have some Provia 100 instead. 👌

[@blaxton2]

What do you do with the exhausted chemicals? Are they more toxic than B&W chemicals?

[@therealsirrobin]

There is a recycling facility in most german towns where you can easily get rid of it. 👍

[@Buckeye-ish]

How do you clean your stuff?

[@afrikabb]

Can you show us also ECN2 process?

[@alyant97]

How long is the shelf life? Do you add time to the development every couple of rolls to compensate? And how many rolls do you generally get out of one batch of chemistry?

[@b6983832]

Shelf life of C-41 chemistry depends on the brand - you can buy chemistry for original process with a separate bleach and fix. Also, there is the Tetenal version made nowadays by many different companies with a combined bleach-fix, "blix". With the latter, mixed bleach-fix is often the first to fail after a few months. Original version has a bleach and fix that last almost forever, but part C of the color developer will fail eventually, no matter how well you store it. This happens in 3-6 months after opening the bottle. It will turn almost black (it should be colorless or light yellow). This happens without warning. This part contains CD-4, the color developing agent, and after oxidizing it will not work properly. Before opening it will keep very well - for years. Mixed chemistry will keep for a few months (not two weeks as some manufacturers claim). If the developer turns dark and opaque, don´t use it, as it can ruin your film. With one liter, you can safely develop at least 12 films 135/36, probably over 20. Just look for your developer changing color to almost black, or for any deviations in negatives. Color casts may appear if chemistry is old or exhausted. Mix a new batch if needed. Time could be added to the development time. What needs to be said, you can seldom control a process by hand in a tank with an one-second accuracy. You must count pouring your chemistry in and out, and it will work at least partially until the next stop. We are talking about 15 seconds longer developer time after about 6-8 rolls, as standard time for C-41 color developer is just 3 min 15 sec. I mean, you can calculate a time of 3:27, but you probably would deviate from the standardized time anyway by 12 seconds. I this video, the development time is extended for about 30 seconds because of waiting and talking when blix should be poured immediately This is much more than the time needed for compensating for exhausted developer.

[@andyandyfrogy1113]

@the_real_sir_robin how do you agitate do you use back and forth or complete rotation? Thank you.

[@therealsirrobin]

Back and forth. 👌

[@andyandyfrogy1113]

@@therealsirrobin thank you

[@BmcN72]

Do you not wash after dev and before blix?

[@beaupfeifferrecordings]

I heard that tetenal has shut down shop where did you get yours from buddy is it back stock

[@briansegarra9312]

It's called new tetanal I think , a couple of workers bough the part of tetanal and they will sell the chemicals now

[@beaupfeifferrecordings]

@@briansegarra9312 yeh ok I bought a 1ltr pack recently and they said as they did

[@therealsirrobin]

Exactly, they also have their own online shop now.

[@beaupfeifferrecordings]

yeh ok I will have to check that my darkroom supplier gave me that information his old school

[@СергейБорщев-у6и]

Отличное видео! Большое спасибо!

[@shamikchoudhury5924]

Please make a video for E-6 also.

[@Mickaelplqn]

How much time can you keep the chemicals before it is used ? Thx

[@therealsirrobin]

Depends on the brand I guess. Have used the Tetenal kit over a couple of months and had no issues.

[@flavioserci6046]

No wash after the stabilizer?

[@jonatascd_]

one question: for how long did you leave the pre-wash in there? My first three attempts of developing resulted in a yellowish gradient coming from the sides of the film - not a possible light leak since I'm using a Hasselblad. I saw that you didn't check the exact temperature of the pre-wash...

[@tedsmith_photography]

Is a rinse required after the final application of the stabiliser? I’ve been doing black and white for years but never colour. With that I need to rinse for several minutes after the fixer. Not the same for colour?

[@therealsirrobin]

No, it's not required. Even for black and white it's not necessary to rinse for several minutes!

[@andrydilindra]

Yeah! E6 please! 👌

[@Baschtel6666]

Do you rinse your film after the stabiliser?