Developing Kodak TMax 100 120 with D76 Stock || Developing with Nico

[@ganzonomy]

Now THIS is how you do an instructional video. Uncut, no fast forwarding, nothing. Beautifully done!!!

[@NicosPhotographyShow]

Thank you! Its what its intended to be. A follow along video.

[@fredthegraycatt]

I'm glad you mentioned the use of distilled water. Some places (like mine),the water is something you cannot trust to NOT leave residue on your carefully processed film. You would swear you have chlorine and rocks coming out of the faucet sometimes.

[@randallstewart175]

Okay, now we have the best "how to" develop film video on YT. He does it right, hits all of the key points, and he explains why it's done that way. Fantastic that someone is actually using a good quality tank system instead of the leaky, cumbersome Paterson one. Another option, better than Paterson and half the cost of the Jobo, is the AP, also sold as the store-brand tank by B&H, Adorama, and Freestyle. You can use half the recommended amount of Photoflo, which does the same job and leaves less foam and risk of excess residue on the film. A huge Thank You to Nico.

[@NicosPhotographyShow]

Thanks Randall, I tried my best. AP is actually made in Spain (its where Im based). So will try to get some as soon as possible.

[@elangeldelamusica]

One of your finest! It's like a cooking show!

[@NicosPhotographyShow]

Developing with Nico! Buy my merch soonnn

[@danem2215]

About 10 years ago I got into this as a hobby. Started to pick it up again and your videos have been a wonderful refresher (and reminder how many mistakes I made in the past!)

[@NicosPhotographyShow]

Im glad it helped! There are always mistakes to fix, its the fun part of it all

[@AdHocVisions]

Nico, I want to say thank you for making this video. It really means a lot to me, it helped me to understand how to process process film. It's something that I'm starting to get into and watching you really help me feel a little bit more confident and getting into the process of developing my own. I wish you the best and thank you so much again.

[@NicosPhotographyShow]

Thank you for the message and hope you enjoy shooting and developing film as much as I do. Nothing more satisfying than seeing the images come out of the tank.

[@dangoldbach6570]

The best part of film photography is seeing your negatives for the first time when you develop your own film, I actually think I like it more than anything else about film photography

[@HermiLazyycat]

“Magic!” - I said that to myself every single time I see the roll developed well. ☺️

[@georgelogan7709]

2+ reasons for a quick pre soaking; you maintain the correct temperature of the developer otherwise the temperature can drop once poured into the tank, the tank and reel possibly being colder than the liquid; it equalises the developer reacting to the film mitigating reducing streaking or dev marks; this also can help reduce bubble rings (yes always knock). One other thing, it's not a cocktail shaker, slow steady inversions.

[@kory443]

This is like Mister Rogers for me, thank you. Very great and generous video

[@joachimlindback]

Thanks, nice to refresh my old memory.

[@NicosPhotographyShow]

You're welcome! We all need it sometimes!

[@jbliborio]

I´ll take my first steps on developing my own films and this vedeo was extremely useful. Thanks a bunch and regards from Brazil.

[@cowboyyoga]

Nico this is a great video! Just what I needed to get started with my new Jobo tank! Thank you Gary

[@paulsnaith9677]

Thank you so much for this. I have been looking for something 'step by step' like this that was clear, and easy to understand. You have given me the confidence to try developing myself. Still scared but far more well informed.

[@jonatascd_]

cooking show for photographers - super well done

[@NicosPhotographyShow]

Thank you so much 👍

[@markmadderra4834]

Your absolutely right I forgot about the time. I know you'll do other good videos. Thanks. Mark

[@NicosPhotographyShow]

Will find a way to do some for stand.

[@MihneaIrimia]

Whoa, you actually change your fixer? :)) I only change mine once a year just because I feel guilty for overusing it. The last time works just like the first time, never had any issues, but I extend the fixing time to 10 minutes. Note: You can't overfix, so don't worry about that. If you underfix, you can come back and refix at any time. The film should be light-tight in the first 10 seconds after it touches the fixer. You can actually check how the film clears at every minute or whatever. Good video, Nico!

[@NicosPhotographyShow]

Thanks Mihnea! I change fixer a lot because of amount of film i do. So I rather be safe than sorry. ;)

[@andyvan5692]

great series, Nicos, but one suggestion, how about showing some 4x5 " and other sheet film developing, what you use ( ie, do you Always have to tray develop, or are there tank, aka daylight options), and esp. the changes from 35 and roll film processes, as there are plenty of 35 mm developing videos, just NOT enough on sheet film. maybe start with some "beginner friendly" emulsions, so that we know how to start with those.

[@thomaspopple2291]

I'd like to see a tricky film/developer combo. CMS 20ii in Adotech iv. I've heard you need to do only one inversion every minute and very slow. Also i heard that you only fix for a short time. Not sure. Would love to see you attempt it. Very temperature specific as well.

[@inigo_n]

Great video Nico. It helped me a lot. Greetings!

[@NicosPhotographyShow]

Thanks Iñigo!

[@obey_leil]

Thx a lot for this video I have watched every time I developed 👌

[@NicosPhotographyShow]

Glad to hear that

[@Garacha222]

well done video. If someone wants to shorten the video, they can speed up the play to 1.25X, or 1.5X and still make out all the dialog without missing any details. That jobo tank looks really nice. It looks to have a good seal that appears not to leak, and also seems easy to fill and empty quickly. My latest purchase has been the latest versions of the ones made in Spain (AP PHOTO), but they only make for single, and also a double 35mm reel size. Paterson tanks can leak a bit for me, but they do offer a triple reel size tank which support processing for very dilute developers needing extra volume of diluted developer per reel. If someone wants to watch the video a little quicker, they can still make out all the dialog, and speed up the play to 1.25X, or 1.5X and not miss anything. I agree about the steam in the shower. I dry film in a tall clothing garment bag, and prepare the garment bags environment beforehand by runnig a vegetable steamer in it for about 20-30 minutes. If people don't think there is much dust in the air, just look at the air as the morning sunlight peers through a window! (a dark background reveals a multitude of dust particles in the air.) I've also added a shop light in the garment bag in past to speed up the dry time, but without using any type of fan so as to minimize any movement of dust, But now, I keep shop lights in the background instead, to safely keep electrical appliances away from my steamer moisture, and patiently let the film dry overnight. I've considered adding a boot dryer to the garment bag floor, so as to gently speed up drying, but just don't really want any fan moving the air unless I can guarantee no movement of dust. I want perfectly 'dust-free' negatives, and having shop lights behind the drying negatives is a bit like seeing the negatives on a light table: it offers me patience because I can admire them while they dry safely & completely.

[@gnus_w]

Great video!

[@NicosPhotographyShow]

Thank you Magnus.

[@toomasrett3931]

Excellent and simple presentation....

[@petervanorsouw2858]

This video is on its way to helping those who are learning, thanks, have you thought about showing variations on developer, dilutions and film speed to achieve fine or cause grain negatives. The possibilities with film development are just about endless.

[@NicosPhotographyShow]

Thanks Peter, yes Im working on different iterations of this concept, different tanks, films, developers. I have around 100.000 videos to make... jokes aside, I want to do the most I can. Showing what you mention is a spinoff from this.

[@petervanorsouw2858]

@@NicosPhotographyShow That is great, I'm an experienced photographer, but I still like to see how others do it, and I'm always learning. Thank you.

[@NicosPhotographyShow]

@@petervanorsouw2858 I agree, the day we decide to stop learning is the end of the fun and growth with photography.

[@warrenlilford3524]

Been there and done that with the ga645, i shot half a roll with the cap on second time i used mine

[@annadenaro9919]

my coolest room in Australia is 28 degrees Celsius, I have to always put my developer in the fridge.

[@NicosPhotographyShow]

Yeah, I only do that in summer.

[@TheSilverprint]

Great instructional video. That is how you do it. I picked up a few pointers too! Great work! Do you ever use the Hypo Clearing Agent?

[@mischalluch2849]

Hi Nico! Love your channel. I wonder if you could do a ECN2 developing show. Thanks!

[@NicosPhotographyShow]

Thanks! I will try but there are not many ECN-2 kits available.

[@alexdragutescu]

WOW ! really nice video. Well done and super clear. Could you do a developing of Ilford HP5+ pushed to 1600 in Kodak Xtol diluted 1:1

[@NicosPhotographyShow]

Thanks! Will put it on the list! Never tried Xtol.

[@juancarlosguzman2827]

Awesome Video Nico 👍. I just got into film photography and I feel this is the right video I was looking for, recently got all the chemicals and and kind of don’t know what to do next. I got the Film Photography Project D76 powder developer but I guess I can reuse that, and I got the stop bath from Kodak, and the fixer from Ilford, man I got a lil bit of everything. I am big fan of your videos you have ton of great information and love Nico news, always watch it! Gracias por hacker estos videos son muy informativos y Claros de enetender : )

[@markmadderra4834]

Enjoyed the video. How about stand developing. Thanks Mark.

[@NicosPhotographyShow]

Thanks Mark, will feature it as soon as possible, but it might be a looong one. As most stand is 1 hour. ;)

[@QueenEssel]

Thank you for this very informative video!! I noticed that you didn’t use hypoclear (unless you did and I missed it) is that step necessary? On the Mass Dev chart hypoclear is a step (I know some people don’t use this) Thank you!

[@NicosPhotographyShow]

I dont use hypoclear, i just wash multiple times and use the wetting agent after. Never had issues.

[@curiosity2314]

A demonstration doesn't get any better.

[@donsemo4804]

I take my silver to city college where they have a great photography course and they dispose of it accordingly.

[@drparham]

Thank you for this

[@NicosPhotographyShow]

Thanks!!

[@swansong007]

Nico. Nice information video. But you never mentioned what timer you used and where to get one. Thanks

[@NicosPhotographyShow]

Its a classic Gralab timer, not sure they are made anymore. But a triple timer app for a phone does the same thing. Just wanted a visual representation for viewers.

[@randyjacobs5413]

Thanks!!

[@NicosPhotographyShow]

Welcome!

[@andyvan5692]

yes, Nicos, like a "cooking show".... BUT without the "here is one I prepared earlier" !!!!!

[@royfass]

Thank you so much!

[@chilecayenne]

It sounds like you can mix and match, but, for the beginner, would you say it best to start developing Ilford film (I'm doing HP5 400) with Ilford products, Kodak with Kodak chemicals, etc? I wanna start with B&W...then to color then to the special kids shooting Kodak Vison 3 movie film where you have to strip off the remjet layer as part of the process. That stuff looks amazing, but, I gotta start here first..... Thank you in advance, CC

[@ceanorme]

this is a great video. Thank you. Quick question: if you want to use vinegar fo the stopping bath, can you use it pure or dilute it in water? if you dilute it in water, which would be a recommended ratio? thank you again!

[@dennyoconnor8680]

The stop bath I use is plain water.. Fill tank, swirl it around gently for a minute, pour out. Do that a second time and move on to hypo (fixer) Been doing BW in the darkroom since 1952, beginning in the single bathroom in my parents house (lots of grumbling)

[@jebemligashta]

Hi, Nico, great video! One question on fixing - is it possible to use C41 fixer with B&W film? I am replenishing my C41 fixer by taking away and then adding 30ml of fresh fixer per film. The leftover I keep in a separate bottle and tried it with a piece of B&W film. It cleaned the emulsion within 10 seconds, so it seems much more potent than regular fixer. I assume it would need to be dissolved with a lot of water. Would be great to hear your experience with this. Thanks!

[@NicosPhotographyShow]

Nooo!! Dont mix bw chemical and color, they are very different.

[@jebemligashta]

@@NicosPhotographyShow thanks for the quick reply!

[@jcaldrey1039]

Thanks

[@thedondeluxe6941]

Great series, very thorough! I already feel pretty confident about b&w development. But I hope you'll be doing colour too, since I am definitely not confident about that! Is Acros really a T-grain film, though? I always developed that as a regular film, and I never had problems with the results.

[@NicosPhotographyShow]

Thanks! Color is coming in different formats, kits, tanks and so on... get ready! Acros is T-grain film, probably not a big issue to fix normally but better to be safe.

[@simonplmondon1234]

Can you do a video with Rodinal and tmz3200 maybe also with AdoFix Ado AdoStop and AdoFlo ?

[@NicosPhotographyShow]

Putting it on the list.

[@simonplmondon1234]

Nicos Photography Show great

[@zarmindrow5831]

you developed the shit outta that film yo

[@1911geek]

Plastic gloves squeeze against emulsion hypo clean or not one day we will see damage

[@jllanesphoto]

Great video...

[@NicosPhotographyShow]

Thanks!

[@toulcaz31]

I really like the concept. You may want to be careful of not dropping so much info on other options while waiting as you may get beginners lost.

[@NicosPhotographyShow]

Note taken. Hope it will slowly all make sense to all users. But its true I spam with info!

[@christiancardona9889]

What about rotary development with a jobo? Time would be the same? Thank you for your videos :)

[@NicosPhotographyShow]

Yes, with Jobo machines add a 5 minute presoak with water at developing temperature, all the rest is the same. Except for Xtol that doesnt need it, as far as I know.

[@christiancardona9889]

Great! Thanks again

[@alexiscuarezma]

this was amazing!! Thanks so much. Can you do Tmax3200 with D76 to maximize grain?

[@NicosPhotographyShow]

Thanks Alexis! I can do Tmax3200 in D76 no problem.

[@alexiscuarezma]

@@NicosPhotographyShow Thanks so much :) btw A colleague who makes his own BW chem told me that developing BW film in straight Dektol gives an insane amount of grain. Not sure if heard of this before or experiment, but could you possibly try it and compared the result to D76 with Tmax3200?

[@NicosPhotographyShow]

So you are looking fro extra grain? Just to be 100% sure.

[@alexiscuarezma]

@@NicosPhotographyShow yes, the most amount of grain.

[@alexiscuarezma]

@@NicosPhotographyShow Just re-watched this entire video again. I picked up Fixer, Stop bath & wetting agent yesterday :) I already have the D-76 in powder. The Fixer & Stop bath are lllford Liquid concentrate. I'm shooting a roll of 35mm Tmax3200 tonight then going to develop it myself. I'm excited. I haven't done this since college and usually when I shoot 35mm BW film I let a lab do it. Thanks so much Nico. Your channel rocks.

[@catsorpiebald]

Hi, is prewashing required?

[@NicosPhotographyShow]

I dont usually prewash.

[@SonicFanaticEthan]

Can i used Kodak fixer powder

[@NicosPhotographyShow]

Yes you can. Fixers can be different. Just check the dilution and fixe away!

[@willy-VD]

Hello, why are my TMax 100 negatives, revealing according to developer and fixer manufacturers instructions and times, come out violet? It is normal? Leave 15 exaggerated minutes in fixative (instructions said 60-90 seconds) and they were transparent like the Ilford, Agfa. Will I have problems printing Tmax with violet color? Thank you

[@ViaOjo]

I watched the whole thing

[@NicosPhotographyShow]

Hope it was helpful.

[@Andregg2]

I used to reuse my fixer for 10 times around

[@CertainExposures]

What’s the camera in the background?

[@NicosPhotographyShow]

Stenopeika Hyper 4x5.

[@CertainExposures]

Nicos Photography Show it’s handsome.

[@NicosPhotographyShow]

@@CertainExposures It does look good under studio lights.

[@toulcaz31]

Why buying a Jobo when you can get a Nico 😃

[@NicosPhotographyShow]

Kickstarter coming soon to get your own Nico.

[@theoldfilmbloke]

Blimey !! ( Good Old London Expression) your negs look a bit too thin !

[@NicosPhotographyShow]

They do, but Tmax 100 in D76 is not my usual. I would have souped it in HC-110. Always can bring some contrast back in the darkroom.

[@toulcaz31]

First time I see someone using a syringe with a needle for this. That seems unsafe and unnecessary.

[@NicosPhotographyShow]

Yeah, should try a different method.

[@randallstewart175]

Right, so you cut or break the needle off the end of the syringe. If you know a diabetic, you can get a once used one on request; we go through huge qualities a year.

[@randallstewart175]

That would be "quantities".

[@westdk6705]

Hells Kitchen :)))

[@NicosPhotographyShow]

Thats the point!

[@Howhizzle]

This is missing a lot of important information about mixing ratio. Loading in the canister. Also, not everyone is going to the exact chemicals. ILFORD has made a detailed video, link attached. kzbin.info/www/bejne/l4G0aIKGrp2HaNk

[@NicosPhotographyShow]

If you check the introduction I made videos per each chemical I used. Its meant to be a guide these specific chemicals with this film not a how to develop film in general. Like you said the Ilford video is more of a general overview. Im looking for exact procedures.

[@mamiyapress]

Very wasteful of expensive developer.

[@NicosPhotographyShow]

It was for the sake of science. Sorry you find it wasteful.

[@elangeldelamusica]

expensive????

[@MarqelexsisAmaro]

B&W developers are not that expensive and as Nico stated doing one-shot is a good way to go. Most developers don't last that long in poorly sealed tanks anyway unless you are replenishing or make from concentrates (6 month for properly sealed containers for Dev's like XTOL / D-76, Rodinal and HC-110 are in concentrates).