Developing Your Film... Wrong!

More accurately titled (or subtitled?) Adjusting the Exposure and the Development of Your Film to Match the Contrast of Your Scene. In this video, Professor Agar shows you how you can take your photography to new levels and introduces you to photographers who have influenced his work.

[@TeddyCavachon]

I used the Adams Zone System for 20 years for my B&W and also worked as a lab technician at National Geographic. Adams Zone System was based around two constraints: 1) always printing on #2 paper, and 2) rendering Zone 0 max. print black voids with just the film base, no silver density, which meant exposing Zone 1 (solid black no texture) areas of the scene with a density on the negatives slightly above the film base. Correctly rendering the highlights on the print required: 1) knowing the brightness range in EV (f/stops) between Zone 1 and Zone 9 areas in the scene, and; 2) for each scene EV range encountered the negative development time need to render the separation between Zone 9 and Zone 10 values on the scene so there is visual separation and the perception of 3D between Zone 9 solid white and Zone 10 specular highlights within the Zone 9 objects; e.g. photo of a white car hood where hood surface in direct sun is Zone 9 and the reflection of the sun on it is Zone 10. What you need to wrap your head around, and what the “bigger picture” lesson Adams taught was that to create the illusion of 3D reality on a 2D black and white print things we perceive as the darkest black objects must be rendered on the print as a slightly lighter shade of gray and that to preserve the illusion of 3D in the highlights the paper base must be reserved for the specular highlights on perceived white objects necessitating that they be rendered as light tone of gray on the print. Spot meters didn’t yet exist when Adams developed his system to know precisely what the range between Zone 1 and 9 areas of the scene so he used a cross lit subject wearing black and white clothing as the starting baseline for adjusting film speed for ideal Zone 1 negative density above film base and gray tone on print just above max black printed using the film base. The metering was done off an 18% gray card held in the direct sun. That typically didn’t provide enough exposure in the shadows so you’d need to adjust setting on the meter lower; e.g. 320 for 400 tri-x. When developing negatives the shadow densities completely develop very quickly. What changes with increasing development time is the density on the negative in the highlights. Adams, Weston and other photographers before around 1930 used orthochromatic film which is not sensitive to red light and they learned to develop their sheet film negatives for proper highlight density to fit the single grade #2 paper visually under safelights in the darkroom. This was no longer possible with Panchromatic film which must be developed in total darkness, why Adams developed his method of tailoring and keying develop time to the contrast of the scene lighting via a few systematic tests. After you determined the adjusted ISO to render the shadows optimally you put the same subject in the black and white clothing in the sunny crosslight and then shot 3-5 sheets of film, developing each for a slightly different time then printing them for film base = Zone 0 black. The correct development time for that lighting became obvious by looking at the highlights on the print and picking the one which preserved the Zone 9 / 10 visual separation which creates the illusion of 3D in a 2D rendering. You then repeated the same development time test on partly cloudy, overcast, open shade and conditions like snow and beach scenes with higher contrast than the first baseline direct sun test. Without a spot meter to precisely measure scene range there was an element of educated guessing what the range actually was. Fortunately I learned the Zone System in 1970 with a 1° Honeywell Spot Meter and modified the procedures as follows: Determining ISO for ideal Zone 0 / 1 negative exposure and print values: Instead of of metering off the 18% card meter the area in the scene I wanted Zone 1 (black object rendered dark gray on print) then reduced the nominal ISO by about 3 stops (Setting meter dial for 50 for ISO 400 film). What that did was shift the meter calibration point assumption from 18% to that of the reflectance of the darkest non-void shadows in the scene I wanted rendered with slight density above base on the film. Matching Development Time to Scene Contrast: After metering the Zone 1 scene area for exposure, directly measure the brightest non specular solid white object. I carried white and black terry cloth rags to use as test targets when there were no Zone 1 or Zone 9 tones in the scene to measure. Then it was just a mater of the same testing to find the development time for each EV range for ideal Zone 9 / 10 rendering on the prints. That spot metering method also worked with Polycontrast paper. The starting baseline was finding the development time which rendered cross-lit direct sun perfectly on #2 filter prints and then always using that development time regardless of scene Zone 1-9 EV range. The Zone 1-9 EV range is used to know in advance when shooting what Polycontrast filter will be needed for a full range print. I used a color enlarger head for exposing my Polycontrast so I could precisely dial in the yellow and magenta CC values need for any EV range scene (which I determined with testing). The other approach used by commercial labs is to use an enlarging meter which can directly measure the EV range between shadows and highlights on the negative under the enlarger to determine the Polycontrast filtration needed.

[@chris_jorge]

thank you for your wisdom!! it's gonna take a bit to break this down. im not even comfortable knowing where to point my meter at this stage lol

[@Volthan]

Even after reading Adam's works, it's interesting to read your summery and personal experience. Thank you.

[@AI-Hallucination]

My man 😊

[@rpavich]

This guy is a great teacher. His videos are so well done, he's so informative and entertaining. His students are very fortunate to have him as their teacher. I bet his classes get filled up fast.

[@Trangent]

Thank you from both of us 😍 We're glad you like the videos! Thanks for watching and good luck with your photography!! :)

[@BAstudios5]

The negative and the print are the best books ever written on black and white photography technique, ever.

[@Trangent]

You said it Barry! Thanks for watching!! :)

[@KevinRusso]

I've always rated my film at half the box speed, exposed for the shadows stopped down a stop or 2, and developed normally. It's always been a working formula for me with few exceptions.

[@13squier]

This guy is the best teacher!

[@Trangent]

Thank you Clay!! Glad you enjoy these videos! Best of luck to you!!

[@oscargarcia8204]

This is gold. I've been developing for about a year now and this is is giving me a more profound knowledge of what I have been doing

[@kylemccourt663]

THANK YOU!!! You are the other guy that still uses ASA! I grew up with it and still refuse to change. I am an analog film teacher and teach ASA. Great video!!!

[@Trangent]

Thank you so much Kyle!! I hope you've found our other photo videos inspiring and helpful as well! Have you seen any of our newer videos? We're having a contest and encourage you and your students to enter: kzbin.info/www/bejne/f4HFhGqBZbygnNk, kzbin.info/www/bejne/h6vcl5qwZdOfZrM, and kzbin.info/www/bejne/nomtiniod5dljLs. The contest is based on one of the Professor's favorite assignments he gives to his students. Hurry-entries are due soon: Nov. 30. This is a perfect time to try out something new or enter something you've shot during the quarantine! Good luck!! -L

[@studiojege287]

One of the best educational video out there! Thanks!

[@chuckjines67]

You are a natural teacher.

[@Zosoid]

Best photographic KZbin channel. So. Clear.

[@Trangent]

Thank you 24fps!! Very kind of you to say! Glad you enjoy our videos :) Best of luck to you!!

[@mistylandschaft]

These are the best educational videos about film photography and printing on KZbin. So many people should watch this instead of yet another "which (film/digital) camera should I buy".

[@Trangent]

Thank you so much Mistylandscapes!!! You are very kind! So glad you like our videos! There are way too many choices out there! Not knowing which is the best camera for you and continuing to look prevents you from doing what you wanted the camera for! Been there... Thanks for watching :) Best of luck to you!

[@nickfanzo]

Philip Perkis is one of my heroes and teacher and he always over exposes and under develops. I am so happy film had made such a come back. Making art with tactile supplies is a unique experience that shouldn’t be lost. But I see a lot of bad scans and flat images online. It seems no one is taught the basics of film calibration anymore. it takes forms of testing to match your film of choice, to your developer of choice, for best enlargement results in the darkroom. This is why we stuck to one film and one developer. We didn’t switch every week. This is how: 1. Find a scene with with a good range of tones 2. Using the box speed, meter the darkest area in which you wish to retain shadow detail 3. Move the camera so that you are only photographing this shadow area 4. From the meter's reading close down the aperture by 2 stops or increase the shutter speed by two stops and then expose 6 frames at: the given exposure then +1 stop, +2 stops, -1 stop, -2 stops and -3 stops less than the meter has indicated 5. Process the film 6. Using the frame that was exposed at -3 stops less than the meter indicated (which should be practically clear but will have received lens flair and fogging - i.e a real world maximum black rather than an exposed piece of film that has processing fog)and do a test strip to find out what is the minimum exposure to achieve maximum black - Print must be fully dry before assessing this 7. Do another test strip with the first exposure being what you have selected for achieving maximum black minus your dry-down compensation then plus 1 second, 2 seconds, etc 8. The time that achieves full black inclusive of compensation for dry-down is you minimum exposure to achieve maximum black for all future printing sessions - print must be fully dry before assessing 9 You now know the minimum time to achieve full black inclusive of exposure reduction to accommodate dry-down 10. Using this minimum exposure to achieve maximum black exposure time, expose all of the other test frames. 11. The test print that has good shadow detail indicates which exposure will render good shadow detail and achieve maximum black and provides you with your personal EI for the tested film/developer combination 12 If the negative exposed at the meter reading gives good shadows, your EI is (when metering shadows where you wish to retain good detail) the box speed (i.e. for 400 film you need to set your meter at 400) 13. If the negative exposed at +1 stop more than the meter reading gives good shadows, your EI is (when metering shadows where you wish to retain good detail) 1/2 the box speed (i.e. for 400 film you need to set your meter at 200) 14. If the negative exposed at +2 stops more than the meter reading gives good shadows, you EI is (when metering shadows where you wish to retain good detail) 1/4 box speed (i.e. for 400 film you need to set your meter at 100) 15. If the negative exposed at -1 stop less than the meter reading gives good shadows, you EI is (when metering shadows where you wish to retain good detail) double the box speed (i.e. for 400 film you need to set your meter at 800) 16. If the negative exposed at -2 stop less than the meter reading gives good shadows, you EI is (when metering shadows where you wish to retain good detail) 4x the box speed (i.e. for 400 film you need to set your meter at 1600) You have now fixed your personal EI but there is one more testing stage to go. 1. Find a scene with with a good range of tones 2. Using your EI, meter the brightest area in which you wish to retain highlight detail (but not the sky) 3. Move the camera so that you are only photographing this highlight area 4. From the meter's reading open up the aperture by 3 stops or decrease the shutter speed by three stops 5. Expose the whole roll at this setting 6. In the darkroom, process one third of the film for recommended development time 7. When dry put negative in the enlarger and make a three section test strip exposing for half the minimum black time established earlier, for the established minimum black time and for double the minimum black time. 8. Process print and dry it. 9. If the section of the test strip exposed for 1/2 the minimum black time gives bright highlights with a trace of detail then the film requires 20% more development 10. If the section of the test strip exposed for the minimum black time gives bright highlights with a trace of detail then the film is correctly developed 11. If the section of the test strip exposed for double the minimum black time gives bright highlights with a trace of detail then the film requires 20% less development 12. You can use the rest of the exposed highlight test film to fine tune the development time You run this test on a condenser enlarger with a #2 contrast or a #3 on a diffuser enlarger

[@MyPartytime69]

I’ve read The Negative 4 times, have been a BTZS student and have a full set of tests for a dozen films. Someone just told me “overexpose and underdevelop” and I was scratching my head. Thanks for this video cleared it all up. Thanks!!!

[@Trangent]

Thanks Dave!! Glad you enjoyed our video and it helped you :)) Have you seen any of our newer videos? We're having a contest and want to encourage you to enter: kzbin.info/www/bejne/f4HFhGqBZbygnNk, kzbin.info/www/bejne/h6vcl5qwZdOfZrM, and kzbin.info/www/bejne/nomtiniod5dljLs. Hurry-entries are due soon: Nov. 30. This is a perfect time to try a new technique or enter something you've shot during the quarantine! Good luck to you!! -L

[@alexcarrillo5510]

THANK YOU - WHERE HAVE YOU BEEN??? I WAS WAITING FOR A VIDEO THAT RECOMMENDS PHOTOGRAPHY BOOKS, AND PHOTOGRAPHS OF PHOTOGRAPHERS!!!! THANK YOU!!! I Will Be Watching More of THESE Videos Without Ego..

[@Analogfotografie]

This is so great! Professor Agar's original "Developing Film" video was one of the first ones I watched when I got back to film photography two years ago and it provided answers answer to most of the questions I had at that time...now two years, 30 cameras, some 100 rolls of film later I find the series continued. That's fantastic because of his unique entertaining teaching style. It honestly is one of the best sources if you really want to learn something in my opinion and I hope there will be (a lot) more content like this. Thank you!

[@Trangent]

Wow!! You have been busy!!! I hope you've gotten AMAZING results with all those rolls of film! So glad you enjoy his teaching style and our videos. I'm glad they've helped you develop your photography skills ;) Thank you so much for your lovely feedback! The topic for the next one has been decided and we're hoping to do another over the holiday college break... Have an awesome December!!

[@EnemyMagnetic]

Completely agree! He's wonderful, and wonderfully informative. This series is a treasury of knowledge...and much appreciated.

[@Trangent]

@@EnemyMagnetic Thank you Matt!! We appreciate your kind words!! Hope you've had amazing results developing your film wrong and that you and yours are well!

[@avs4365]

Watched the whole series - a joy throughout, thank you.

[@walterglover3423]

Bravo! Great to see acknowledgement that there are multiple roads to the top of the mountain and the encouragement to try them all and enhance individuality of expression.

[@jonathanbaxter4366]

Applying these techniques to my knowledge of shooting slide film for 20 years and now getting brilliant results with black and white, with this tutorial. Thanks a lot.

[@gsansoucie]

This really helped tie Ansel’s “the Negative” in for me. I’ve always thought I understood the concepts of pushing and pulling, but this really opened it up for me. It also shows the power of large format where each shot can be shot and then developed differently.

[@Trangent]

Thank you so much !! I'm glad our video helped you to better understand pushing and pulling. I hope the Professor's tips help you to bring your photography to a new level of awesome! Thanks for watching :))

[@toussaintdominique4448]

Another great addition to the series. I went into darkroom developing 2 years ago and into printing about 6 month ago and Professor Agar's videos helped me in every aspect. And it's fun to watch! Great job. Thanks a lot.

[@Trangent]

Our apologies (especially mine!) for not responding sooner!!!! Thank you so much for your kind words Toussaint!! Hope you've been developing and printing amazing photos and doing wonderful things with them! Best of luck to you in all you do :))

[@lostintransitphoto]

Laura, absolutely fantastic! I wish I could take one of his classes, but this is certainly the next best thing. Thank you for taking the time to do this.

[@Trangent]

Thank you Patrick!! Glad you are a "student" of his and that you enjoy our videos! I made a list of what viewers want to learn more about and he's got another lecture in mind... Hope to get to it right after the holidays! Thanks for watching :))

[@richardsimms251]

Absolutely great video! ! !

[@antoniorussell9893]

One of the best explanations I have heard for contrast control. Thanks.

[@Trangent]

Thanks Antonio!! Glad you enjoyed the video. Good luck to you! :))

[@ReginaMullen]

Ditto. Thank you for these!! These lectures are indispensable. SOOOOOOO many things make sense now...The early lectures encouraged me to soup my own film before even before acquiring a film camera, and it's one of the things I most love about film photography. So much of working with film is playing with variables (Guerilla Photography is like multivariate calculus! LOL!), from what you do/think as you're shooting to what you do/think developping to do/think printing and on to displaying...Never ending journey! Fellow baby-boomers: we never, ever have to "retire."

[@Trangent]

+Regina Mullen Thank you Regina!! I totally agree with you--film photography has many variables that you could have creative control over. Because of this, you can come up with some amazing prints and have a great time doing it!! Hope you have a picture-perfect 2017! Good luck to you!!

[@chrisholloman7159]

I gotta say, I jumped WAY ahead by watching this, but in return, it's already prompted a creative approach to my first roll of film. I'll be shooting Ilford Delta 400... I LOVE the concept of the underexpose/overdevelop, especially the 'Junkman' image. Stunning. SO glad I found this channel. Thank you.

[@Trangent]

Thank you Chris!!! Good luck to you in your photographic endeavors!! Hope you develop something amazing! Thanks for watching our videos :))

[@carlinschelstraete682]

I've seen a lot of videos and this one really stands out as a superior explanation. Great work on this wealth of knowledge.

[@Trangent]

Thank you!! We're glad you like our video!

[@patriciasawas1090]

Excellent tutorial that really helps us understand the developing process and how it can be manipulated to achieve specific desired results. Thankyou

[@MikeTappokone]

Thanks for sharing this, what a good deed!

[@mattypaxton]

I loved this, Professor! Your guerilla photography/development explanation is exactly the information i need to be more aware of my own process and to record the changes in my method as to get the images i want. I will watch again to further my understanding. My 1 take away from today is the overexposure underdevelopment technique allowing me to save the highlights in a very contrasty scene. Thanks Again! Matt

[@Trangent]

Awesome Matty!!! So glad you find our videos helpful! I always learn more when I rewatch something-I do that a lot. Thank you so much for your kind words! Best of luck to you!! :))

[@therealbeanster]

amazing job! I'm impressed the dedication you give to your lecture and wish I could be in an in-person class you teach!! thank you for the info!! I am honored to be able to learn your wisdom and experience as a 25 yo old in 2022!

[@ricksalazar6637]

Thank you SO much for your teaching methods. Truly appreciated! I've read countless books trying to teach myself the art of photography for forty plus years. You have made me see the light (no pun intended - OK, maybe it is intended) on so many gray areas (I'll refrain from mantion the possibilities of THIS pun) of processes. I'm truly inspired! Thank you, thank you, thank you. You're a fantastic teacher!!!

[@Trangent]

Thanks Rick!!! 😍 Glad you like his teaching style and that it helps you to "push" yourself with your photography! Good luck to you!! :))

[@ton1911]

This is gold. Getting back into film photography. I completely forgot about this aspect of film development.

[@Trangent]

Awesome!! I hope you find it more enjoyable than you did before! Good luck to you!!!

[@martinohesse]

What a great class of film photography! Thanks!

[@brendanwhite3731]

This is fun and brings me back to the time I developed my own films. Just got a Retina iiia camera and put a B&W film now its time to develop the film. When I develop my film it grate to see your results. Loved you video.

[@flam3srock]

Love these videos learning a lot about developing my own black and white film. Thank you so much for posting!

[@Trangent]

+flam3srock Thank you!!! Glad the videos are helping you! Good luck with your developing! :))

[@amberdonaldson7292]

Thank you so much for this series!!! I'm in my first B&W Photography class in college and we just got the film prepped and we'll be learning how to do the paper next class. I'm so glad I came across this video! I hope my work stands out when our professors are looking at our portfolios now that I've found these techniques!!! I was questioning if I should buy a lab book and now I now I definitely will be! Our teacher has already asked us to change our ISO to 200 for our Ilford 400 Film . Now I know what that means and what they are expecting. I look forward to watching more films in the future!

[@Trangent]

Thank you Amber for your kind words!! We're glad you like our video and have found it helpful! We've done several others that you will enjoy too, from basic to more advanced techniques. I think this will link you to the playlist: kzbin.info/aero/PLtZ4nArrDv6wTNeX-7BE23eiDxK3PNf3o. We've recently done an advanced printing video, but it will be a little while before it's ready to upload. This is such a busy time of year!! Good luck to you in your photography! I just know that your portfolio will be outstanding!!

[@weiwei4996]

Excellent Video!! Excellent Teacher!!

[@Trangent]

Thank you thank you!! Glad you liked our video! Thanks for watching :))

[@itstimetogo49]

Truly excellent information! As a former film user (but one who always sent the film to a lab), I never took the time to really learn the processing part of the equation. I recently purchased a 4x5 and courses like this will go a long way in helping me learn and enjoy film again. Thanks!

[@Trangent]

Thank you Wayne!! We're so happy to hear that! Good luck to you in your newly re-discovered hobby!!

[@silekiernanphotography]

Wonderful teacher!

[@ceritat625]

Thank you so much sir! I finally understand this concept, I have read, watched videos, read again and NEVER could get it. Now I DO! If I lived in your city, I would definitely take your classes.

[@Trangent]

Thank you so much Filmnut Girl!! We will always be here for you online!! Thank you for your kind words! Good luck to you in all your photographic endeavors :))

[@doubleletter]

Great explanation thank you! Teaching is a talent not every one has but you do! 💪🏼

[@amosk24]

Thank you Laura and Will. Keep em coming 😀

[@Trangent]

Thanks +amosk24!!! Glad you enjoy the videos! Hoping to do another one after the holidays :))

[@jogrev]

I am watching this serie on 2019 and I can say all I have watched till today, are just, excellent. Your method and explanation are friendly and cristal clear!!! Thank you a lot professor, you motivated me to return to my film cameras!!!

[@Trangent]

Thank you for your kind words Jose-Gregorio!! How exciting to pick up film photography again! We wish you great success and fabulous pictures!!

[@KarlBrau]

What a class! Thank you!

[@elbairisnatal341]

So happy to have found you! Thank you so much.!

[@Trangent]

+Elba Iris Natal You're welcome Elba!! Thank YOU!! Glad you like the videos! :))

[@GM8D79]

I do not have a lot of experience developing a film but I have tried that. I also tried to print a photo and I came across this issue when light and shadows completely off. Even dodge and burning is not easy. I wish I knew this before. It happens even with digital when indoors is too dark and a window too bright. I had noticed that longer you keep your film on the develop is darker and less time is brighter. I heard about pull and push before but did not quite understood this in relation with developing time; now it makes sense. Very educational video.

[@Trangent]

Professor Agar says, "Here are the underlying principles: The longer you develop film the denser it gets making the whites and mid values brighter. The less you develop your film the less density it will have so the whites are not as bright. For high contrast scenes like a window and interior you need to base your exposure on the interior excluding the window then under-develop your film to control the big contrast difference. You can overexpose a couple of stops on roll film bracketing your exposure then develop the whole roll at half the normal time or one third the normal time." Hope this helps! Thanks for watching George!! :)

[@Nat.ImagesLarge.F.Photographer]

Excellent,many thanks!

[@charliemcdarris6403]

Thank you for this video. I have been confused with N+/N- development and this was a tremendous help. It helped to see examples (although the animal pics were bad.)

[@Trangent]

What do you mean? JK! :) Thanks for watching Charlie!! Best of luck to you in your photography!!

[@frasermay7825]

Brilliant! At one point in the early 70s I did a bit of stage photography of some of the groups we worked with here in the UK. I remember shooting a roll of tri-x rated at 3200....25 minutes in microdol . Grain, yep, but cool images. :)

[@ViaOjo]

Love these!!!!!

[@fc-8843]

I could listen to the Professor speak for hours.

[@Trangent]

Awwe thanks Frank!!! Best of luck to you! Thanks for watching!! :)

[@TheMercury-13]

Great video, the www is so wonderful for info! We used to fix b/w films in communal tanks at College, 1 day the lecturer was showing someone round the lab & lifted the lid off, the only films in there were mine, documentary shots from a country I'll never re-visit, all gone-! Ouch. He was such a lovely guy, just a genuine silly mistake, that I couldn't be angry but.. wow. I don't doubt the superior quality of film for blow-ups of landscapes etc, but having been both sides I do prefer to use digital!

[@em-dashman4404]

Love this! I shoot mostly roll film though, so experimentation is a bit restricted. I do have a 5x4 camera, but I don’t get out with it very often, and it’s a very new departure.

[@jameskennedy5795]

Very much appreciate you sharing your experience!

[@Trangent]

+James Kennedy Thank you James!! Glad you enjoy the videos!

[@jaceelliott9659]

Professor i now have better understanding of film development now than when I studied for my degree. Which is shocking when I think about it. I have a good knowledge of colour Photography but not black and white. I use a 5x4 camera, so I have never got the full potential out of it when using black and white film. I suffer from dyslexia, so I find I get so much from a lecture. I have subscribed to your channel and look forward to learning more. I just wish I had found out about you before now.👍👍👍

[@Trangent]

Glad you found us Jace!! When I was in high school and college there were some classes I was good at and some I wasn't. I thought it was because it was boring stuff to learn but it was more because the teacher wasn't engaging or didn't love what they did. And I have ADD. I've been taking photos since I was very young to "document" things, but the professor inspired me to see and photograph things differently. Good luck to you!!! Hope you develop amazing photos!! L

[@andreaparetti2997]

2021. You just inspired me today.

[@gvidotto]

Thank you very much! Very illuminating; answered many questions I've had for a long time - clarified them. All the best too you.

[@Trangent]

Thank you for your kind words Giovanni!!! We are glad our video clarified things for you! :) Have you seen any of our newer videos? We're having a contest and want to encourage you to enter: kzbin.info/www/bejne/f4HFhGqBZbygnNk, kzbin.info/www/bejne/h6vcl5qwZdOfZrM, and kzbin.info/www/bejne/nomtiniod5dljLs. Hurry-entries are due soon: Nov. 30. This is a perfect time to try out something you've learned or enter something you've shot during the quarantine! Good luck to you!! -L

[@aristoioannidis7490]

Outstanding tutorial.

[@Trangent]

Thank you for your kind words!! Best of luck to you!!

[@Readbetweenthelines1]

That was great! Thank you.

[@jensruckert4763]

Great. Just great, as I still and more and more shoot analog this is what I am going to watch the next weeks. While I develop some films do some experiments and at the end of summer I hopefully have my darkroom laboratory fixed to do my own prints... thanks for this program!!

[@Trangent]

Thank you so much Jens!!! We hope you were able to get your darkroom ready and have made some terrific prints!!!

[@jeffreygoldammer1741]

Thanks for your efforts on this, much appreciated

[@artemorbid]

I'm starting my journey into film and this is very valuable information. Thank you so much!! This was very helpful.

[@Trangent]

Thank you artemorbid!! Glad you enjoyed our video! Good luck to you!!! :)

[@stigmatedbrain]

I couldn't be more grateful for this lecture, thank you very much. I still come back over and over again because many reasons... Same as for the one about Night Photography. You've mentioned here you will cover more about the Zone System in the next videos, but I'm not able to find it, my fault. I don't know if I could ask for it, but I'll be really grateful if you can explain the workflow when working with the ZS and in regard to how to push/pull the film in order to take advantage out of it, if possible. I mean, thinking about the characteristics of a particular film. Again, thank you very much and all the best, kudos.

[@Trangent]

Thank you for your kind words JJ!!!! Your opinions are very important to us! We have not made a video on the Zone System yet-that is why you can't find it. We've received many questions on this and I'm sure he will cover it someday. Most of the videos we've made are things he teaches his students. Originally, these videos were made to supplement their learning-because occasionally a student will miss class... lol :) I'll remind him about the Zone System again-for you :)) -L

[@BSCOTT145]

This was great and cant wait to try some of these techniques.

[@Trangent]

+Bee Scott Thank you Bee!! Best of luck to you in photography and all things!

[@2252269]

Thanks, much appreciated.

[@neilmacdonaldfilm]

A clear intelligent explanation of this subject matter, thanks for posting it up.

[@Trangent]

Thank you Neil!! Glad you enjoyed the video! :))

[@rafaelfrontadogomez2745]

Lovely. And the way you teach is fantastic as photography is.

[@Trangent]

Thank you Rafael! The professor does have a way with words (and photos). Thanks for watching! Good luck in your photography!!

[@yvesbajulaz]

Awsome video! With great examples to illustrate the explanations. Super well done. Thx

[@Trangent]

Thank you so much Yves!!!! Good luck to you with your photography!!

[@MichaelCarter]

I did a lot of work trying to learn how to expose and develop tri-X 7266 16mm reversal and now I am trying to understand how to control contrast. This video helped me a lot. Thanks. Glad to hear something about HC-110, my new stand developer to reverse movie film.

[@Trangent]

Thank you Michael!! Glad our video has helped you :)) You’re the first who’s said that they are developing movie film! Awesome!! Is it film you’ve had from long ago or are you currently using it? Thanks for watching!

[@MichaelCarter]

My deal is to only use new fresh film and chemicals so results may be repeated. Old film is slower but works pretty much the same. I use three different Lomo tanks and for tests Jobo 110 spiral reels.

[@Trangent]

Good tip!! Thank You! Good luck to you :))

[@prajeetpillai2612]

OMG... Feels like I hit a gold mine... Your Videos are incredible, thank you so much for sharing your knowledge...

[@Trangent]

Thank you for your kind words Prajeet!!! We are glad our videos have helped you with your photography! :) Have you seen any of our newer videos? We're having a contest and want to encourage you to enter: kzbin.info/www/bejne/f4HFhGqBZbygnNk, kzbin.info/www/bejne/h6vcl5qwZdOfZrM, and kzbin.info/www/bejne/nomtiniod5dljLs. Hurry-entries are due soon: Nov. 30. This is a perfect time to try out something you've learned or enter something you've shot during the quarantine! Good luck to you!! -L

[@stigmatedbrain]

What a training! Again! Indeed my 'basic gorilla' needs a lot of patience, atention and methodical atitude. Have to admit i'm still reviewing the video over and over again and taking notes. Thanks a lot! Kudos!

[@Trangent]

Thank you J.J.!! Hope your "basic gorilla" has been taking advantage of the virus quarantine and developing wonderful things!! Stay safe and best of luck to you!

[@sharonleibel]

Great video. Very well explained and I would like to ask you to add more! Thanks.

[@Trangent]

Thank you!!! We will add more-just for you :)) The beginning of the year is very busy time for us, but we have ideas that we can't wait to get started on-soon! Stay tuned...

[@SpencerPullenPhotography]

THIS IS AWESOME! I have been fighting this very thing since day one. I live in Florida, where we have mostly harsh light. The dynamic range can be as much as 6 stops difference. Everyone I have talked to has told me to "Expose for the shadows and develop for the highlights". I have a feeling that fits in here somewhere. Also, speaking of the Zone System, I was told to put the most important shadow detail in Zone III or IV and then reduce the development time. I'm shooting 8x10 BW negatives and using a rotary processor. It has been a challenge to wrestle in the highlights in the harsh contrasty light. I would think that using constant agitation with contrasty light, I would really need to reduce my development time. I'm using Ilford Delta 100 with Ilfosol 3 developer. Ilford says to start at 7:30min and if using constant agitation to reduce the time by 15%. I have found that is not enough. I have reduced by 20% and that has helped, but I'll also try 25% to see if that is better. I really appreciate you and Professor Agar putting these lessons together. I would even be willing to pay him for some one-on-one Skype lessons. Keep up the great work. Thanks!

[@Trangent]

Hey Spencer :) From Professor Agar: "You are a brave man to shoot 8x10! I am unfamiliar with a rotary processor as I never had enough money to buy one. Have you tried further dilutions of your developer? This would allow for longer development times in which you could cut the development more accurately. Sorry to make you test more as 8x10 film is not cheap! Although if you are only making contact prints, you might consider Arista from Freestyle Photo (www.freestylephoto.biz). Their ASA 400 would be good for the overexposure/underdevelopment technique: Arista EDU Ultra 400 ISO 8x10/50 Sheets #1904815 - $161.69." Thank you for your kind words! Glad this video has helped! Good luck to you!!!

[@SpencerPullenPhotography]

Trangent just wanted Professor Agar know I used the technique of over exposure with under development for one of my recent trips. Here is the link if he would like to see the photo and video I took: spencerpullen.com/black-and-white-photography/morgan-park-arcadia-florida-large-format-photography/

[@Trangent]

Awesome Spencer!! Nice photo!! Adding Florida to my list of places to explore... Keep up the great work! :))

[@augustebenson2464]

Great and nicely illustrated with your own pictures, that's wonderful !

[@Trangent]

Many thanks Auguste! Hope all is well with you and yours :)

[@crash1989]

Thank you so much for this series of film video. Really appreciate you guys making them and especially having them available on youtube. Enjoyed myself a lot and learnt so much from them. Cheers from Singapore :)

[@Trangent]

Thank you Syed!! We really like making them and are glad that you enjoy them and learn from them!! Thanks for watching all the way over in Singapore!! Sending cheer from our little corner of the world :))

[@crash1989]

Trangent Do send my sincere thanks to Prof Agar. Such a wonderful educator. Cheers :)

[@Trangent]

I will!! Thanks again! :))

[@TahirFarooq89]

Another great video of Professor Agar.

[@Trangent]

Thank you so much!! We're glad you like the videos :)) Hope you have a grand new year!!!

[@jackyleecs]

Very interesting idea. Thank you for the video! :)

[@glenquinn4159]

One word to describe this tutorial "BRILLIANT", I love your videos :-)

[@Trangent]

Awesome Glen!!!! Thank you!! Stay tuned-another one in the planning stage. Thanks for watching :))

[@PeopleMakePictures]

Brilliant...in almost everyway

[@Trangent]

Thank you Joe!!

[@emisor73]

Oh God, this is fantastic! I've read about it and tried but nothing as when it comes from a Teacher. Thank you Sir!!

[@Trangent]

Thank you Jose!!! Professor Agar is very good at illustrating photography concepts and procedures. So glad this video helped you to understand exposure and developing better!! Thanks for watching :))

[@zos09]

@@Trangent We want more videos regarding photography, from Mr. Agar !! He is the best professor on youtube !

[@Trangent]

@@zos09 Thank you!!! We have lots of ideas but very little time. And now that we have to socially distance... Hope you are well and have been making good use of this strange time of our lives! :)

[@JPKVan17]

Finally, I get it! Thank you.

[@Trangent]

Awesome John!!! Thank you and thanks for watching! :))

[@jasonblake5576]

Excellent presentation and explanation 👍

[@Larpy1933]

There's a lot of wisdom compressed into a few words. It's a very digestible and enjoyable video. Excellent work and thank-you.

[@Trangent]

Thank you Larry!!!! These videos are really fun to make! We're so glad you enjoy them! Good luck to you!!

[@flutgraben13]

What you ommitted is simply the fact that choosing overexposure/underdevelopment and vice versa is always a matter of the scene's total contrast. So measure exposure at different spots first and then decide if the contrast needs to get expanded (push) or compressed (pull) to get it in a printable range of 9 stops from dark to white. E.g your array of pictures with the normal exposed/developed woman in the middle only holds for a "normal" contrast scene of 5-6 stops. If it would be a rainy day with a total contrast of 1-2 stops a normal tone range would be hard to get with normal settings. So a N-2 exposure and N+2 development would expand the tonal range to normal again, far away of a "graphic" result.

[@MrJacobbosch]

Lovely! from a Galaxy far far away (Brazil) kkkkk.... Thanks teacher! you have a natural talent to teach...I do these experience by my own ituition...and guess what? you put in words perfectly! really really greatful for these peace of treasure! thanks so much!

[@Trangent]

Olá para o Brasil! Sua galáxia está longe! Thank you for your kind words Jacob!! Thank you for watching our video! Boa sorte para você!!!

[@nocommentnoname1111]

Excellent!

[@randallsullivan472]

very interesting. considering going back to film/darkroom photography now that I am mostly retired.

[@raytoei]

thanks for the video.i especially like the part on exposing for indoors with higher contast values outdoors. i would love more explanation on the "Golden Circle Mine" by Edward Weston and the HCB picture. My guess is the overexposed it and under developed it to produce an easier negative for dodged and burn during printing. thanks again!

[@Trangent]

You guessed right Ray!! Thanks for watching our videos! Stay tuned for a new one: Night Photography. Best of luck to you :))

[@paulleonardo8821]

if only I had teachers like you ! LoVe your work keep inspiring thanks for sharing !

[@Trangent]

Thank you so much Paul!! Glad you enjoy our videos! Thank you for watching :))

[@Raevenswood]

Thanks for posting these! it must have been nice to take this guys classes.

[@Trangent]

Thank you Raevenswood!!! Glad you like our videos :)) Thanks for watching!

[@desaiortegren]

Wow - great content! You've gained yourself a new subscriber. Can barely wait to try overdeveloping my film, looks amazing...

[@Trangent]

Thank you so much!! Glad to have you on our channel-thanks for joining :)) Good luck to you!

[@literallyshane4306]

This was really insightful. thank you

[@adamm4926]

Wonderful, simple explanation. Thank you.

[@Trangent]

Thank you Adam!! Glad you like our video! Thanks for watching :))

[@qnetx]

Excellent! Thank you.

[@Trangent]

Thank YOU!! Glad you enjoyed our video :))

[@PierreAlainMaire]

Thank you so much for sharing !

[@Trangent]

Vous êtes le bienvenu Pierre-Alain!! Thanks for watching :))

[@someonemearth5197]

Well this was very informative. I learned a lot. I had to watch it many time and take notes. I wish I could just save the video for offline viewing. This video gets a 5 star rating from me.

[@danielalte78]

another excellent video, thank you sir!

[@Trangent]

Dziękuję Daniel !! Glad you enjoy our videos! Thanks for watching :))

[@potkop12345]

This was fantastic!!!

[@Trangent]

Thank you Gerhardt!! Glad you enjoyed our video!!

[@joangilisuarez7090]

Thank you very much for this video really quality content. I have learnt a lot. Looking forward to practise what i have seen!

[@Trangent]

¡Eres muy bienvenido, Joan! So glad our video has helped you! ¡Buena suerte en sus esfuerzos fotográficos!

[@PanAmStyle]

Will: at 18:38 At 18:18 you show a slide stating “adding to the development time gives you more contrast and *increased ASA*. Technically this is not correct and I think will mislead those new to film. The ASA/ISO of the film *doesn’t change*. It is accurate to say you change the EI, the *Exposure Index*. The film’s sensitivity is whatever it is. Up to then the discussion was excellent because you *did* describe exposure and development in terms of controlling contrast. In my experience (since about 1973), for example, the true ISO of Tri-X is about 200 or, at most, 250. That’s where you get good shadow detail in Zone III, maybe even some texture in Zone II. BTW, I’m in Rochester, where Minor taught at RIT.