Stand Development

Professor Agar lightens up in this next lecture, giving you "recipes" for successful developing using a different method called stand development to develop your film with two age-old developers, Rodinal and HC-110.

[@Dstonephoto]

Instructors such as him are a gift to the world of education.

[@Trangent]

Thank you David!!! 😍 Be sure to check out our first "In the Classroom with Prof A" video-it is a fun assignment plus contest (with prizes) to enter! You have several months to perfect your entry! Good luck!! -L

[@parratt-world]

Don't worry about the alleged "seriousness" of your presentations. We shouldn't dumb things down because there are some who can't cope with science. You do things very well. Thank you.

[@nickfanzo]

Kevin Parratt people think he’s serious? He jokes through all his videos lol.

[@Trangent]

Thank you very much Kevin! We are glad you enjoy our videos!!! :))

[@Trangent]

😊 Thanks for watching Nicholas :))

[@jonneville2287]

@@nickfanzo I think Mr Agar is being sarcastic. I love his style of presentation, a breath of fresh air, and a break from the wannabe movie stars on YT.

[@ScottLaceyMN]

I just watched this video after stand developing a 120 roll of Ilford Pan F Plus 50 and discovered that one side of the roll was lighter than the rest. After watching your video, I started to think the reason for this is that I was agitating like a drunken sailor. Professor Agar I love your videos. They are so full of knowledge and entertainment. Thank you!

[@alanholzmanphoto]

This is a great video. Thank you! As you probably already know, the new HC-110 is no longer a thick syrup making it much easier to work with.

[@Trangent]

Thank you Alan!! Professor Agar says, "Kodak does not make HC-110 anymore and has been taken over by Legacy. Still seems thick-ish to me but I’m usually in quite a rush when mixing things up!" By the way, have you seen any of our newer videos? We're having a contest and encourage you to enter: kzbin.info/www/bejne/f4HFhGqBZbygnNk, kzbin.info/www/bejne/h6vcl5qwZdOfZrM, and kzbin.info/www/bejne/nomtiniod5dljLs. Hurry-entries are due soon: Nov. 30. This is a perfect time to try out something you've learned or enter something you've shot during the quarantine! Good luck!! -L

[@thebuggy736]

My father and I use Rodinal a lot for B+W. It is easy to use and to get in Germany. Honestly the clip covered all information you need. Also I like the presentation with a little bit of humor. There are cheap little medical 30ml cups you can buy from the chemist. My father used Rodinal well over the expire date and never had a problem.

[@Trangent]

Glad you liked our video @thebuggy73!! It's awesome that you and your father enjoy the same hobby!!! I bet you have many great discussion on techniques and results :)) Thanks for watching our video and good luck to the both of you!

[@thebuggy736]

@@Trangent Thank you. Good luck for you too. We like Ansel Adams the great American landscape photographer. He was good teacher too. The Camera, The Negative and The Print, very nice books and you will get the books today for few Dollars second hand. The Complete Photographer from Andreas Feininger (book). Feininger was a more experimental person, both are great photographers. Ansel Adams runs a course for photography since the 1940's (today his family is running the course). When it started it was about a week and now it is boiled down to a day course! It says something about our modern time, people have no time anymore. Very sad.

[@Trangent]

@@thebuggy736 Both are great photographers!! That is so true-people don't have the time anymore. But they are missing out, by not "stopping to smell the roses" or to learn only by bullet points. Some things, wonderful things, need more than just a little of our time. I think the virus quarantine will help put things in a different perspective though :)

[@kaelanharkey6192]

this guy knows how to develop lol, I always set up a few camping chairs and have drink with my partner as well. Thanks for the content, your instruction is priceless.

[@ianbutler1983]

Thanks Lauren and Professor Agar for making this video. It answered my questions about stand development. I appreciate your sharing your knowledge.

[@Trangent]

Thank you Ian!! I hope you enjoy experimenting with stand development and get really nice results!!

[@alicewyan]

I wouldn't bother removing the air from the Rodinal bottle, it'll just darken with age but will keep working fine. Even as it turns into a black gooey syrup! By the way, I just found your channel today and really enjoying it!

[@Trangent]

Even if it becomes black and gooey? I don't think I have enough strength to squeeze the bottle when it's near the end so this is good to know!! Thanks for watching our videos!! Glad you are enjoying them :)) Best of luck to you!!

[@johnjon1823]

I hope you made a nice print and framed the broom picture. That is the kind of simple thing that says a lot about life, wisdom, and reality, and more. It should not be forgotten.

[@Trangent]

Thank you for your kind words John Jon!! We are glad you enjoyed our video and his examples. I'm not sure if he framed the broom print but may have. Professor Agar has many fine prints and loves nostalgia-silver gelatin prints are perfect for this! Be sure to check out our first (our latest video) "In the Classroom with Prof A" video-it is a fun assignment plus contest (with prizes) to enter! You have several months to perfect your entry! Good luck!! -L

[@redone2612]

Great video and nice to see you using HC110 as I have only ever seen people use Rodinal, thank you.

[@Trangent]

Thank you so much!! Glad you enjoyed our video!! :)

[@JerzyRugby]

I development a roll following your instructions and the pictures are perfect. Thank you very much!

[@aantonic]

Sir, i learned alot from you so far, regards from Austria

[@VintageTechFan]

What I always do for HC-110 is mix it with a little less water at first (700-800ml for 1L), then wash out my measuring cup with that solution to get the sticky rest out and then add water to full volume. I also immidiately divided the last 1L bottle I got into 4 brown glass bottles of 250ml each. That was over 2 years ago and it still works as new, which it didn't in the last 1L plastic bottle. Nice developer, but rumors say it's gone for good.

[@toussaintdominique4448]

A grim video from Prof. Agar????? Never saw one... :-) Excellent stuff as usual. Thanks

[@Trangent]

Thank you Toussaint!!! :)

[@randallstewart175]

If you agitate during development to obtain the most evenly developed negatives possible, what should you expect if you develop with no agitation? Thinking, thinking, thinking. That's right boys and girls - you got it. So what subjects can you get away with using this process? Scenes with lots of busy detail and no broad, even tones (like blue sky), and high contrast scenes which are all nearly black and white. These scenes tend to conceal the uneven development. Why are there dozens of YT videos indirectly pushing the process? Because it doesn't require that you learn how the development process works, and because once a one or two of these videos post, every "creator" and his dog have to shovel out the same "content". Bow wow, professor.

[@Gophotos99]

Best photography instructor love the videos!

[@Trangent]

Thanks Chad!!! Glad you love our videos! 😍

[@fanjan7527]

Who said the other videos are a bit grim? Really! You sir are very entertaining 😄

[@Trangent]

Thank you Fanjan :)) I think he was kidding 😊

[@bublt4me]

Freestyle is the only seller online as far as I know that ships ORM-D chemicals like Rodinal. NYC stores are pick up only.

[@Trangent]

Thank you Martin! I think you're right :))

[@tcc300892]

You're an excellent teacher. Thanks very much!

[@Trangent]

Thank you for watching our channel!! Good luck to you :)

[@angelusrufus7479]

Stand with HC-110? Every day brings something new to me ;-)))

[@expertvillageidiot]

Thank you Trangent and Prof Agar. Entertaining and useful, as always!

[@Trangent]

Thank you +Jeff!!! :))

[@pierrebouchard4289]

Looking forward to the next video ... Very informative , well presented and interesting ... Thank you !!! :-)

[@Trangent]

Thanks Pierre!!! Good luck to you! :))

[@amosk24]

Always so good, Lauren. Thanks to you and The Professor!

[@Trangent]

Thanks Caffeine!!! ❤️

[@filmneri]

Awesome and fun video to watch. Thank god here we use metric system 😁. Greetings from Brazil.

[@michaelofmelrose]

thanks for sharing, you like to help others and that comes accross, if I was in your area, I would take some of your courses. Don''t stop.

[@Trangent]

Thank you for your kind words, Michael!! We're glad you like our videos! Hope you've been finding new ways to enjoy photography during the virus quarantine. Stay safe!!

[@jeandaubas3252]

Thanks for this excellent video. A lot of pleasure to watch it and a lot to learn from you 2! Very instructive, too. I'm waiting for the next ones Photographic cheers from France, jean

[@Trangent]

Merci beaucoup Jean !! :)) Here's our next one-Split Development: kzbin.info/www/bejne/rpiwoKijo9prfMU Enjoy!!

[@jonnoMoto]

I've always found semi-stand to be more reliable than a full stand. Sometimes ended up with bromide drag with full stand even on 120. Bromide drag with 35mm was almost guaranteed.

[@Bartuul]

Sweet video. Pure pleasure watching it. Stand developement is not really my cup of tea (takes too long), but it was cool learning some more about it. You guys rock! And Laura... You have me intrigued with that little November spoiler. ;)

[@Trangent]

Thank you Bartuul!!! ❤️ The November (hopefully November) video will be really different from the others. Maybe it even deserves two teaser/preview posts :))

[@cozymonk]

20:10 I think CineStill (and maybe others) also makes collapsible bottles that you can scrunch down as you use the chemicals to squeeze out the excess air.

[@beaupfeifferrecordings]

the accordion bottles are good too for getting all the air out off your bottle easy push down

[@Trangent]

Yes-great tip!! Thanks for watching :))

[@ViaOjo]

Can you give a lecture on the different stop and fix bath solutions for b&w???

[@blasterman789]

Tmax films were designed to be resistant to variations of development and be friendly with mechanical commercial development like rotary tubes. Tmax 100 -vs- plus-x for example are night day with the later old film responding to any slight variation of agitation while the newer Tmax films don't. So, by trying stand development with Tmax 100 or 400 you are trying to nail an ice-cube to a wall. Please try this with older, bromide sensitive films like HP5, classic Tri-X or FP4 and you'll get much better results.

[@Trangent]

From Professor Agar: "With the long months of winter up here in Minnesota one of our favorite party games is to create "Andy Goldsworthy" knockoffs. With found pieces of ice, including pre-made ice cubes, we like to drill holes in the middle and attach to trees or telephone poles. Like Goldsworthy, we photograph the art taking advantage of dramatic winter side lighting. But seriously-my short videos are to encourage and explore. If using a T-Max or Delta film meant buying an expensive rotary machine many would be stopped in their tracks! In any case the images shown in the video were from both Tri-X and T-Max with no apparent difference to my eyes."

[@naedolor]

To store developer, you can put it in a glass bottle and use a vacuum pump and a special cork. Pricey, but elegant.

[@Trangent]

According to Professor Agar, "Glass bottles are always better than plastic. I also have tried filling with marbles. Better still, just use it fast enough before expiration or oxidization!" Thanks for watching. Hope you've had excellent results developing your film! :) L

[@mikeking7470]

Classic HC110 is much more syrupy that Rodinal. Kodak hasn't made chemicals for a while but several other companies have licensed the name and formulas. The latest version is very different in viscosity and keeping properties.

[@robscovell5951]

I am just getting back into B+W film photography after a 30 year break. I have been quite impressed by the videos I've seen on Stand Development. Would you recommend using it as a standard approach for me to start off with, or should I go back to 'normal development' as I did back in the day?

[@gabriel1chan]

Love your technique, I should try next time. Or just test a roll.

[@Trangent]

Thank you Gabriel! Thanks for watching :) Best of luck to you!!

[@eckasdreams]

thanks for your videos!!!

[@stigmatedbrain]

You rock as always! Thanks I lot!!! Going to give it a try! Cheers!

[@Trangent]

Thank you so much JJ!!! Hope you enjoyed the process and got great results!! :)

[@kenklontz1945]

If you are still teaching what lucky students 😎

[@Trangent]

Thank you for your kind words Ken!! He is still teaching, but it is mostly online due to social distancing mandates :) Have you seen any of our newer videos? We're having a contest and encourage you to enter: kzbin.info/www/bejne/f4HFhGqBZbygnNk, kzbin.info/www/bejne/h6vcl5qwZdOfZrM, and kzbin.info/www/bejne/nomtiniod5dljLs. Hurry-entries are due soon: Nov. 30. This is a perfect time to try out something you've learned or enter something you've shot during the quarantine! Good luck!! -L

[@PaweBanczak]

long live the rodinal!

[@Trangent]

Thanks for watching Pawel!! :)

[@bluzizalright]

Laura is a good sport.

[@Trangent]

It was really gross! Just kidding--we were faking it... Thanks for watching!!

[@SpencerPullenPhotography]

Great video as always. When I started about a year ago, I was told to try Kodak D76. I had great results. Some told me that D76 allows for "silver migration" so I've been using Pyrocat HD. Has Professor Agar ever used Pyrocat? If he ever makes to to Florida I would hope he would look me up so we could do a couple of shots of Pyrocat, Yum! LOL!

[@Trangent]

Hey Spencer! :)) Professor Agar says he has not ever used Pyrocat but "Photographer's Formulary sells it and it looks good!" I'm not sure he meant to use or to drink lol 😊

[@SpencerPullenPhotography]

Trangent I've been trying it for the past six months with my 8x10. What attracted me to it is that it's a staining developer and helps preserve the detail in the highlights in a high contrast scene. He may like to give it a try.

[@Trangent]

Thanks Spencer!! I'll pass that on to him :))

[@dmdmorg]

He looks like, and sounds like Paul Newman. Great video:)

[@Trangent]

Thanks! 😃 LOL Glad you liked our video! Good luck to you!!

[@analogueandy8x10]

My favourite developer for stand and semi-stand is Pyrocat-HD.

[@user-zs1hc4xf7j]

Why? You do it 1+100 for an hour?

[@analogueandy8x10]

@@user-zs1hc4xf7j when extreme edge effects are desired.

[@b.griffin317]

Do you still invert like that if you don't fill the dev tank fully? Or do you always fill the dev tank even for one roll?

[@Trangent]

Professor Agar says, "No matter if one roll or two, always fill the tank for two for greater development consistency! Compared to your time, cost of developer is cheap." Hope this helps you! :) Have you seen any of our newer videos? We're having a contest and encourage you to enter: kzbin.info/www/bejne/f4HFhGqBZbygnNk, kzbin.info/www/bejne/h6vcl5qwZdOfZrM, and kzbin.info/www/bejne/nomtiniod5dljLs. Hurry-entries are due soon: Nov. 30. This is a perfect time to try out something you've learned or enter something you've shot during the quarantine! Good luck!! -L

[@stephencrowfoot244]

You can pour the dev into smaller bottles as it is used up to reduce oxidation. Have you experienced bromide drag from the sprocket holes with 35mm film with these long dev times?

[@Trangent]

From the Professor: "Not yet!" Thanks for watching Stephen!

[@expertvillageidiot]

Also I'll be doing also sorts of stand development using Coffee, Vitamin C and Washing Soda in the months ahead. Something for Prof Agar to ponder?

[@Trangent]

Lol 🙃

[@Trangent]

Jeff, I just figured out what you meant.... 😂 lol on me :) You meant developing with the Caffenol process! Looks pretty cool and certainly worth a try! Have you done this before? Hope you've gotten great results!! :))

[@trindarr2003]

Interesting effects when I use Kodak Extar 100.

[@Trangent]

The professor says the results are probably quite spooky!

[@trindarr2003]

@@Trangent They actually came out pretty nice.

[@trindarr2003]

@@Trangent facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10217068020166143&set=a.10217068019886136&type=3&theater

[@Trangent]

@@trindarr2003 Awesome!! Nice and spooky or just nice?? (I like spooky...!) Glad to hear that! L

[@Trangent]

@@trindarr2003 Unfortunately I didn't see this message until now-the link didn't work and I did not get to see your amazing photos. Best of luck to you!!

[@JPKVan17]

Thank you again.

[@Trangent]

You're very welcome John! :))

[@pepeg.luthier566]

I like your shirts

[@Trangent]

Purchased at the finest photographer's haberdashery :))

[@eckasdreams]

you're a rockstar

[@riswanc]

Hi prof, may b im a little too late to join the party stand dev, just wondering when u made 5cc of HC110 into 1000ml and poured in a 2 reels tank, i suppose there’s some left over right? Since thet tank probably take up to 600-750 ml at most And is there a rule of thumb of the minimum of developer dilluted in H2O? Like 5 cc the minimum works wonder?

[@scottparis6355]

Stand developing faster films like Tri-X or HP5 in Rodinal gives negatives that are very sharp, but have grain like baseballs. Some people like that, but I don't. How does stand developing in HC100 compare in terms of grain?

[@bjoernhallandsen5287]

What are the best films for Rodinal 1:100 - and what the bests for hc-100 1:200?

[@Trangent]

Professor Agar says, "Both Rodinal and HC-110 are old and reliable. They are also liquid and syrupy with many different development dilutions. Dilution will affect time to suit your needs-short or long, it is up to you. My developer over the years has been HC-110 but everyone has their favorite. Best idea is to find one and stick with it. Weston developed all his film in one type while Adams used HC-110 for large format and Edwals for 35mm. I would start with thinking about which film is best suited for your needs rather than the film developer. That, of course, depends on what type of photography you do. Fast film, ASA 400, or slow film, ASA 100 or less, all have a different feel of what your final print will look like. I tell my students that the best all around film, forgiving in exposure and development, is Kodak’s Tri-X. Of course, Ilford’s HP5 is an excellent alternative. If you are specifically talking about Stand Development, either of the above films will work nicely and both developers, Rodinal and HC-110, will perform adequately. Pick whatever is readily available to you. That being said, you should always test before doing an important wedding shoot! Hope that answers your question, Bjoern! :) By the way, have you seen any of our newer videos? We're having a contest and encourage you to enter: kzbin.info/www/bejne/f4HFhGqBZbygnNk, kzbin.info/www/bejne/h6vcl5qwZdOfZrM, and kzbin.info/www/bejne/nomtiniod5dljLs. Hurry-entries are due soon: Nov. 30. This is a perfect time to try out something you've learned or enter something you've shot during the quarantine! Good luck!! -L

[@trimounixavier9148]

I used this "tai chi" method but got some issues in the photos with a big sun lights in the sky (got verticals black lines) . Maybe i was to gentle tai chi ? ! But for other photos, got very good results. i love stand dev, can take photos at 125, 200 ,400 iso (and maybe more) with one 125 iso film, and got good results in one dev.

[@Trangent]

Professor Agar says, "Each person develops their own method of film agitation so whatever works, works! Vertical black lines can be caused by a light leak in the camera. The camera has seals to prevent fog and those lines you might be getting. The foam can be replaced by camera repair for a reasonable price. This is common with older cameras." Good luck to you Trimouni! Hope you solve this problem and continuing getting great results. Thanks for watching!!

[@trimounixavier9148]

@@Trangent thanks for your answer, the problem have been solved last week, it was a too gentle agitation.I did normal agitations (but not brutal) at the begining, and 3 very gentle a 30.

[@Trangent]

@@trimounixavier9148 We are glad you figured out the problem! Hope you're well and you've been developing amazing photos :))

[@nadiabouchier]

ahem* The CC is hilarious. I'm pretty sure I'm about to make a big mistake with dev my first roll in over 4 yrs, but here it goes!!!...

[@Trangent]

Hi Nadia! I haven't looked at the CC on this one, but I tried to automatically caption another one and found it was so far off that I should probably do it myself!! If you were referring to CC saying "ahem" - yes, that is funny that CC adds something like that! If by "ahem" you were pointing out that CC was "interesting..." or made little sense, then I am nervous... 😬 lol Thank you for watching our video! I'm sure you will do well developing your first roll of film after so long. It's like riding bike, isn't it?? Good luck to you!!! Be sure to also check out our first "In the Classroom with Prof A" video-it is a fun assignment plus contest (with prizes) to enter! You have several months to perfect your entry! -L

[@nadiabouchier]

@@Trangent omg I can't believe you replied! I'm star struck! Ok ok ok inhale - exhale. To clear things up, yes I was referring to how funny the auto CC adds it's own twist to what you actually said, of which I still am unclear of what was actually said in that moment as I am hearing impaired :/ I did manage to successfully develop my roll using the standing method, and have decided to complete the rest of my film dev. using the same technique - Success! A little bit of light brown on the edges (air bubbles?) but the rest of the film turned out fine. I spent the last two weeks inside of my schools darkroom printing from those negs - - I'm very happy to be working on my projects again - they are nice and have good ranges of contrasts and nice tonal works. I have found taking photos within the Blue Hour times gives my B/W prints an extra richness to them, it looks soft.

[@jonathanbaxter4366]

Tech question?. Can you alter the time with a 1 hr stand dev to compensate for overdeveloping an underexposed neg or under develop an overexposed neg, not a push ,pull, but just alter the contrast. I.e if i wanted to increase the contrast on a low contrast shot i would add say 25% or 50% depending on how much contrast i wanted on my negs, so I would end up developing for an extra say 15 mins or 30 mins to compensate? so it would be 1 hr 15 mins or 1 hr 30 mins , and same with reducing contrast, minus 25% -50%? so would be 45 mins or 30 mins these adjustments are just examples. Or does stand developing for 1 hr take care of this for you?

[@mikkokovasiipi]

Thanks for your video! I was thinking could you use wine bottle air remover (google) for taking the air out from the bottle?

[@rolandrick]

😂😂 I also drink the dilution always at the end of stand development. The HC-110 has a special note, like all this red wines made of grapes 🍇 have been rosen on the southwest flank 😂😂

[@Trangent]

LOL 😂 Glad you enjoyed our video!! He didn't stand much though did he? ;))

[@rolandrick]

Trangent 😂

[@derkeksinator17]

You should try some old BLX from the C-41 chemicals, almost like red wine, rich colour, strong aroma and solid taste

[@Trangent]

@@derkeksinator17 LOL!!! 😂 Thanks for stopping by! Hope you and yours are well!! :))

[@loi0323]

Greetings from Philippines, I would like to ask how long do i have to develop my acros 100 if pushed to 400? I would like to follow your steps using rodinal, thanks

[@Trangent]

Greetings from America! :) Professor Agar says, "First find out what normal time is for Acros 100 and Rodinal-consult the Massive Film Development website (www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.php). I checked and it suggested Rodinal 1:25 for 6.5 minutes. The same website suggested a push to 400 would use an increase of development time to 7 ¾ minutes. This would be a starting point. Slower films like ASA 100 need less time to over- or under-develop to compensate for exposure." Hope this helps, Lloyd! Thanks for watching! Good luck to you!!

[@luismsp3016]

how does this hc 110 stand development whit tri-x pushed to 800? thanks for your videos!

[@Trangent]

Professor Agar says, "I would not recommend pushing film with stand development as it is more for normal or compensating negative development." Hope this helps! Good luck with your photography!! :)

[@johnLee-bb2do]

Thank you for the video. Would you use the same time and dilution for Tmax 400?

[@Trangent]

According to Professor Agar, "I assume so however, as always, TEST!" Sorry for the very long delay in getting back to you. Hope you've been having terrific results experimenting and using different film developing methods!! :) L

[@macbookdieter]

I’ve been using Caffenol CL.

[@Trangent]

From the professor: "Can you drink it also in the morning to wake up? Kidding!! Love the idea and never hear of it much. Thanks for reminding me! I've got a whole jar of instant coffee to put to use!!" :))

[@PhilTaylorPhotog]

Hi Tranent, whilst I appreciated the video a lot, I still can’t seem to see anywhere the exact “why” for stand development. I understand it uses less developer (that may be the only reason), but I see other comments about tonal values in the shadows, and Prof Agar also mentions the ability to go and use the time for doing something else…so is there a single goal here? I assume if it provided some superior results, Kodak or Ilford etc would recommend this over standard development practises.

[@kikkik388]

Здравствуйте. Спасибо за Ваше видео, очень познавательно! Я тоже использую для проявки t-max 400 hc110. И плёнки 35мм и 120мм помещаются в растворе на 1000мл. Но я хочу проявить и листы 4*5", но он погружается не полностью. Если я сделаю 10мл.нс110 + 2000мл.н2о, я получу правильное соотношение? Для голодной проявки. 30сек. медленная агитация, через 20мин еще два переворота, затем еще стоит 25мин.

[@Trangent]

Спасибо огромное! Thank you very much Фото Знайка 😊 I'm sorry it took so long to get back to you. I had to use Google to translate your comment and it doesn't do it perfectly. I wanted to get the professor to respond to and here is what he said: "When you say,” 10ml HC110 + 2000ml h2o” are you using stock or concentrate right from the bottle? Here is the way I use HC-110 for developing T-Max 400 (rated 200) 4x5 and 2¼ film. I take the Kodak HC-110 1 liter bottle of concentrate and dilute it into 3 liters of water. This gives me a stock solution. I do this into a 4-liter (1 gallon) mixing container by filling the original HC-110 Kodak bottle three times with water to get all the concentrate completely out of the bottle. Then I stir the 4-liter stock solution. I store this solution in four 1-liter bottles to keep the developer fresh through the months. I label each bottle. I mix the HC-110 stock with water for a working solution. These dilutions and times work for me for T-Max 400 based on The Massive Film Development Chart: 1 part HC-110 with 7 parts water (known as Dilution B in Kodak literature) is 7 minutes at 68 degrees in an open tray. Note that I use an 8x10 tray and mix up 3 liters of working solution or 8 parts of HC-110 stock with 56 parts of water to cover my hand and film. I develop six sheets at a time shuffling bottom to top, always holding the sheets in one hand never touching the bottom. I move the bottom negative to the top once every 5 seconds. If I am developing three sheets I agitate once every 10 seconds per sheet. One sheet would get agitation once every 30 seconds. Good Luck!" I hope that makes sense to you, and that it translates well. If you have any questions, let me know and we'll answer as best we can. Good luck to you and thanks for watching!!

[@kikkik388]

Thank you for Your response. I'm using google translator:-). Foreign language don't know. Their solutions apply НС110 concentrate from the bottle. Now I know how you do it. 68F degrees=20C. Soon manifest on Your advice).

[@Trangent]

Awesome!!! I'm glad you are able to translate!! Best of luck to you!!!! :))

[@MrJohnHartman]

Do you make any adjustments to the HC-110 recipe for 4x5? I developed 4 sheets in a Steerman tank following the directions in the video and found them to be pretty undeveloped. I'm going to try a full hour next time. I see 1:160 and 1:119 as commonly recommended dilutions for stand developing. How do you decide in a situation like this between adding more time or using a little more developer?

[@Trangent]

Professor Agar says, "I recently bought the same tank just for these one-hour developments with 4x5. But I only have used it with one sheet at a time. The issue may be that the small amount of developer is insufficient to handle all four sheets. So, if you are getting underexposed results it may be caused by that. I am also going to knock off four sheets at a time and see what I come up with. Let's keep in touch!" Hope the Professor's advice helps, John! Thanks for watching! Good luck experimenting!! L

[@ccoppola82]

Have you ever tried Barnbaums 2 bath development with hc110?

[@Trangent]

Professor Agar has not but said he would put it on the list! Thanks for watching Christopher!! :))

[@MarcoFantin1]

Nice video, but what is the effect of using stand development? It should compress the highlights, because of developer exhaustion in the densest areas.

[@randallstewart175]

Marco, you got it, very much so.

[@MarcoFantin1]

@@randallstewart175 I actually tried the exact recipe with HC110 and found that the film turned out nice and contrasty. I would say very similar to N development overall, and quite pleasant. I think even lower dilution and/or shorter times should be used to see strong compensating effects. Bruce barnbaum in his books gives a recipe to use HC110 as compensating dev.

[@Trangent]

@Marco Fantin: Professor Agar says, "Stand development is a bit of a novelty exercise for people who have long attention spans and plenty of time on their hands. Or people who are so busy, incredibly organized and can multi-task beyond belief and can do a great number of things in one hour without burning the rice or overdeveloping the film. Yes, it does slightly compress the highlights." Thanks for watching!! Good luck to you :)

[@Trangent]

@Marco Fantin: The Professor had this to say: "I soaked up the work of Bruce Barnbaum having met him and seen his photographs of Antelope Canyon. His book on photographic techniques stands next to my books by Ansel Adams and Minor White."

[@Trangent]

@Randall Stewart: Thanks for chiming in Randall :))

[@MyJuancho2010]

Hello sr.Do you have any video about ..masking contrast black & white negatives..Thank you.

[@Trangent]

From Professor Agar: "We don’t. My videos are mainly for beginners with a few asides of my personal conceits. That’s why I stress the phrase “guerrilla photography.” However, some want more maybe with greater technical aspects. This web site shows a beginning demonstration: kzbin.info/www/bejne/hn7EiHiZot5ng7c. As you view it you begin to realize that there is a fair amount of time spent, after learning and practicing the technique, that could be spent outdoors taking pictures which is what I like to do." Thanks for watching our video, Jhon. Good luck to you!

[@marcycami]

Great show as always, I'd like to share a similar dev that I'm planning to test very soon, is the foma fomadon r09 that u can 1:200 Thanks for the vudeos😄

[@Trangent]

Thanks Marcy!! Good luck testing the new developer! Be sure to let us know how it worked out for you :)) Thanks for watching!

[@noc838]

Dear Trangent, your videos are fantastic and very educational! Thank you very much. I do have a question however about stand Dev. How do you prevent the white streaks that occur from the top of the neg down to the bottom? Also there seems to be a density shift horizontally along the net with it being very dark/dense on the left and very bright/light on density on the right or vice versa ? Do you think this would happen with hc110? Haven’t tried it with that yet.

[@Trangent]

Hello jodad! Thank you for your kind words!! Professor Agar says, "Stand Development is fairly foolproof. HC-110 is fine to use. As usual, test with an experimental roll. As for the streaks, it would depend. Do you ever get them when you do regular development? If you do then Stand Development is not the problem. When you look at the film are the streaks opaque, a white-grey? That would be from the film touching on the film reel which happens every now and then. Or are the streaks black on the film which would print white if you make a proof sheet or print? That would be caused by light leaks in the camera. This is very common with film-based cameras as they are usually old. New gaskets run about $50 or so to have this fixed. Show me an example with a strip of film-hold to window light and snap a shot with cell phone closeup, send to me for examination. As for your second question, certainly if you did not fill the tank to the top with diluted developer you might get uneven development. An old shutter will cause uneven density across each picture plane. Shutter repair is usually $125 or more. Again if you send a sample image of the problem negatives my team of experts can examine, evaluate and respond." Best of luck to you!!

[@GedMason]

Another great video, I do enjoy watching and learning from you. Perhaps you could have spent some of the time explaining why you would use a stand development though. Apart from not having to agitate every 30 seconds, my understanding is that, with the weak solution the developer will go to work on the highlights first until it depletes whilst continuing to slowly develope the shadow areas over the hour. So it is a good development process to use for contrasty scenes as it will build up more details in the shadows? Please correct me if I have this wrong.

[@Trangent]

Here is what Professor Agar has to say about stand development: "Stand development has the advantage of 'a compensating effect whereby the developer exhausts itself in areas which require greater development whilst remaining active in less-exposed areas, which has the effect of boosting shadow detail whilst preserving bright highlights.' As usual it is always better to put it to the test with your individual technique!" Hope this answers your question Ged! Thanks for watching!! :))

[@jameslane3846]

Thank you so much for this video! I was wondering if you should only use this for medium and low contrast pictures? This would lead to very high contrast otherwise I am guessing

[@randallstewart175]

Mainly due to the compensating effects on highlights and the full development of shadow areas, the reverse is more commonly true. You tend to get flat, more dense negatives.

[@gabriel1chan]

I used HC110 1:200 as suggested here, but I found the negative too thin, good enough to be scanned, but will be difficult to print. To increase the thickness, should I reduce the dilution or increase the timing. I noticed that for Rodinol the dilution was 1:100, should HC110 be the same 1:100?

[@Trangent]

Professor Agar says, "Tricky business on what to do. Between longer time standing and more concentrated developer I would go with the latter however also consider a lower ASA on film. I rate my Tri-X at 200." Hope this helps!!

[@michaelprzewrocki4195]

3 times per first 30 seconds. aka every 10 - 3 times.

[@fordroams]

Hello! New student here! Can we also use both rodenal and hc-110 for standard development? And are they only good for only one development process? Thanks

[@Trangent]

Professor Agar says, "Both Rodinal and HC-110 are used as standard developers. One shot is often preferred as it is tossed after development. D-76, a similar developer can be used one shot or from a large amount used repeatedly. If development comes from a large gallon or half gallon amount you must keep track of the amount of film to either increase development times proportionally or add replenisher." This reply has been a long-time coming. You are no longer a new student-hope your lessons went well and you've enjoyed developing your film and gotten great results!! Best of luck to you!! :)) L

[@albertogarcia1386]

Many thanks for the video. I do use ilford Ilfotec HC as my preference developer, do you know if it works as well for stand development with the same proportions 1:200? Thanks.

[@Trangent]

Professor Agar says, "Thanks for writing and hope you are well. I have not used the Ilford product but it appears to be similar to HC-110. I would test, as always, but a dilute amount with minimal agitation would produce similar results. I have used the Tri-X and HC-110 with both 35mm and 4x5 with pleasing results. Now is a good time to experiment with all the time we have at home!" Hope this helps, Alberto! Good luck to you!! L

[@albertogarcia1386]

​@@Trangent Thanks for your message Agar, I hope you are well. Yes, I am shooting black and white film at home and trying new methods of processing film at home, I have been doing some portraits and few shoots for a project about the lock-down time at home. I saw your video about exposing to the shadows and reduce to half the developer time; the one with your father reading at home, very interesting. I will try to do it, I suppose it works better with diluted developer solutions because of the longer times in the developer. Could you tell me if between this process of half time and the stand development, which one of these keeps a better structure of the grain and sharpens? Thanks.

[@Trangent]

The professor says, "Here is a quick answer: Since I work mainly with Tri-X 4x5 and 2 1/4, I have never been too worried about grain or sharpness. When I used T-Max 100 a few years back I was impressed with that extra quality of smoothness! However, in general, less development will give you finer grain. Of course slower films will do the same and Delta and T-Max-also less grain. My advice is to use your favorite film and get used to what it will do with the idea of overexposure and underdevelopment as opposed to the stand alone development. The first combination truly demands lowering the ASA for less development compensation." Good luck Alberto!! L

[@albertogarcia1386]

@@Trangent Many thanks for the message and the advice Agar. I hope this virus get over soon so we can keep doing what we like the most. Take care and good luck.

[@Trangent]

@@albertogarcia1386 Thank you Alberto!! Same to you!!! :)

[@beaupfeifferrecordings]

[@Trangent]

Thanks Beau :))

[@davidpresnell1734]

Try dropping clean marbles

[@alexgrd75]

Thanks both of you for your videos. What is your "stand dev" recipe for push processing on TriX and HC-110 (800 ASA and 1600ASA)? Do you think it can transposed to Hp5+ ?

[@Trangent]

Professor Agar says, " I would not push film with stand development. Use extended times with standard developer such as HC-110. If using Tri-X 400 with an ASA of 800, add 50% to development time. If using Tri-X with an ASA of 1600, double the development time." Hope this helps you Alexeï! Thanks for watching our videos! Good luck to you!! :)

[@alexgrd75]

Trangent thank for your kind respond. I'll figure out the times by testing. I really like your videos I hope you'll keep sharing your knowlegde. I'm eager to watch your next video. Greetings from France.

[@Trangent]

Je vous remercie :))

[@randallstewart175]

The very nature of stand development and how it works means that there is no pushing in stand development. In fact, there is "no nothin". You put the film in the developer for an hour or so, and you "gets what you gets". One of the two big knocks on stand development practice is that you surrender user control over the process. (The other is the most unevenly developed negative densities you can obtain in B&W processing.)

[@thenexthobby]

The responses to this question from Alexeï are the closest I've yet found for what I suppose I should do. I have a roll of Tri-X I'm sitting on because I'm unclear how to process it. More suggestions from anyone are welcomed. It was exposed at EI 6400 or IE 12800 ... not intentionally, but because the concert venue was horribly lit. The stage was poorly lit (not even a proper spotlight on the singer) and I was locked in at ƒ1.8 and 1/90th or 1/125th the whole time. There was no point in trying to let the meter control the camera if I wanted to prevent motion blur, but I did monitor it for what it suggested I do "instead," if possible. (That's how I know how far underexposed everything was.) I have D76, but could be persuaded to buy something else if suggested. I have seen some examples (and a recipe) of Tri-X pushed to 6400 or 12800 (albeit with HC-110) with _very_ decent results. I don't have a clue how any of the various dilutions for HC-110 might translate to any dilutions of D76, so there's the rub with the one source I'd found for pushing Tri-X hard (and successfully). I'd read a few sources that pushed it that far, but not successfully per se. In the meantime, I may try a couple more rolls exposed this way and develop those first before tackling the concert roll. If each halving of exposure = 50% increased development time, then developing for ISO3200 = 150% more time, 6400 is 200% more time, ISO12800 is 250% more time, for a given dilution assumed for film exposed at IE400. But wait, that 50% increase probably assumes a particular developer and particular dilution, so I'm back to square one. Oh, and go easy on the agitation/inversion cycles so as to not make contrast heavier than it'll necessarily be. My brain hurts.

[@stacyrodman6005]

What’s the agitation time for the fixer?

[@Trangent]

Professor Agar says, "Fix time for film is twice the clearing time of the film's tongue. The film's tongue has no silver on it so when it goes from black to clear, double the time for proper fixing time. Paper depends on RC or Fiber and whether you are doing rush or archival. 'Rush' is a relative word in the world of B&W photography! Paper fixing also depends on using rapid fixer or conventional fixer. I use, and most photographers also use, rapid fixer mixed to 'film strength' dilution. With constant agitation time it would be 30 seconds to one minute. There are simple tests one can buy to make sure fixing and and washing is adequate." Hope this helps you! Good luck! :)

[@stacyrodman6005]

Trangent thanks!

[@Trangent]

You're welcome!!

[@nickfanzo]

What if I pushed tri x to 1600 and wanted to stand develop with rodinal? Do you have a recipe and time frame for this?

[@Trangent]

The professor says, "I do not but what you would want is longer development or a special developer like Acufine which is still made. I used it back in the 60s." Plenty of time for experimenting! Good luck Nicholas!! L

[@nickfanzo]

Trangent I actually use Ralph Gibson’s recipe for Tri x and rodinal now. Thanks!

[@Trangent]

@@nickfanzo Glad you found something that works for you!! Take care! :)

[@nickfanzo]

Trangent be safe

[@Trangent]

@@nickfanzo 😷

[@Socrates...]

Will Rodinal work with a Rondinax 35U?

[@Trangent]

Professor Agar says, "I do not know as I stick mainly with the Kodak stuff here in America. Try it and get back to me!!" Good luck to you, Socrates!

[@randallstewart175]

Rodinal is a developer solution; the Rondinex 35U is a developing tank. So does it not follow that Rodinal will work as well in a Rondinex tank as would any other developing solution? However, on point for this video, the Rondinex tank requires continuous agitation to function properly, so it would be one of the few tanks in which you could not do stand development (not a bad thing really, since stand development is a crock).

[@Trangent]

Thanks for chiming in Randall.

[@letmebereal]

Jimmy Buffet would of known how to agitate.

[@giannidigirolamo8868]

Ok i can stop whatever i'm doing for 20 minutes!!!!!

[@Trangent]

Grazie Gianni!! Hope you had an enjoyable break! :))

[@jorgepets]

I will do the same haha!

[@Trangent]

Thanks Jorge!!!

[@giannidigirolamo8868]

Trangent the best!! As always. Videos should be 3hours long so my break could be longer ahahahahah ;)

[@giannidigirolamo8868]

Trangent ps if the rodinal tastes how it smells...not a good choice Ahahahah

[@DannerPlace]

Was this target to grade-school children? Because, ...

[@GaetanCormier]

Rodinal syrupy? Rodinal is as liquid as water... Kodak HC-110 now THAT'S syrupy ;)

[@Trangent]

Professor Agar says, "My brother’s family makes maple syrup which, compared to HC-110, is like water." :))

[@pepeg.luthier566]

Trangent, you are like water for chocolate: VERY HOT!!!

[@Trangent]

Whatever do you mean? Like the book?? " 'Like Water for Chocolate' (Spanish: Como Agua Para Chocolate) was published in 1989 by Mexican novelist and screenwriter Laura Esquivel. This novel follows the story of a young girl named Tita, who longs for her lover, Pedro, but can never have him because of her mother's upholding of the family tradition: the youngest daughter cannot marry, but instead must take care of her mother until she dies. Tita is only able to express herself when she cooks."

[@pepeg.luthier566]

She is a babe!

[@Trangent]

Thank you Pepe--thanks for supporting us (me) :))

[@giannidigirolamo8868]

How it’s possible I forgot to like the video!! Shame shame shame shame....

[@Trangent]

😍 Gianni

[@davidsolomon4380]

It's great that you're teaching this technique but it could have been a much shorter lesson if you cut out the parts about how to measure chemicals. If this is geared for beginners then I find it incredible that you don't use or discuss any proper safety precautions like wearing gloves or protective goggles. You're even getting the chemicals on your hands and table implying that it's totally fine to do so. Are you really teaching at a college?

[@davidkachel]

Even a "Junior College Professor" ought to know that "stand development" was debunked well over a hundred years ago. Will it develop film? Absolutely, It just won't do it well. Shame on you for perpetuating this nonsense.

[@gobgobcachoo]

What are you smoking? Stand Dev is a good process for pushing film. It keeps the highlights from getting too dense all the while, bringing up the shadows. It's just neat and you are too salty.

[@Trangent]

Thanks for your input @gobgobcachoo!!! Well put!! Good luck to you :)) -L