Diagnose Front-load Washer - No Power At All

Byrd Appliance Specialists
3825 Gilbert Dr., Ste. 342
Shreveport, LA 71104
www.byrdas.com
318-459-8745
If you have a front-load washer that's not turning on, the problem can range from a tripped breaker, to a burned out fuse, to something not worth repairing at all. Here are a few things you can check on your front-load washer.
Steps:
1) Make sure the washer is plugged in!
2) Locate the main power panel on your house to see if any breakers have been thrown. If so, flip them the opposite direction.
3) If you are still not receiving power to the washer, try plugging another device into the same outlet. If the alternate device powers on, then you know it's a problem with the washer, and could be the fuse in the control board.
4) Check one specific area before you decide to call a repair technician or try it yourself - check to see if the stainless steel drum inside wobbles, when you hold the plastic tub in place. *Note - there will be some movement of the whole drum/tub structure based on support/suspension springs, but the tub and drum should be sturdy.
5) If you do find that the drum is moving freely, up and down, while holding the plastic tub stable, the mounting assembly for the steel drum has broken. Replacement is a big job. Combined with replacement of the control board (where the fuse is located that was burned out due to the strain on the motor), you are looking at an expensive washer repair.
6) If this is not the case, then something else in the machine caused the fuse to fail. DO NOT replace the fuse, or control board, until the fault is determined, or you will likely blow the fuse again. It's best to call a technician to troubleshoot the problem. Good luck!
Check the video and feel free to call or leave comments, if you have questions.
Please visit us on the web at - www.byrdas.com

[@ChrisMichaelsChicago]

I love quick to the point videos. I work on these things all the time but it never gets old LOL

[@ohblackwater]

I don't have an LG, I have a Whirlpool, however, the principles are the same. I checked the tub, and it was fine. Followed your instructions on tracing the power all the way to the motherboard. Once at the motherboard, I continuity tested the fuse, and it tested bad. $2.34 and I bought a new fuse. Tried it and it works perfectly. Many thanks for saving me a ton of money.

[@joshualinder6839]

Where is the fuse cause I don't see any fuse in my mother board

[@kathysmith8164]

Watched your video after seeing another KZbin video on how to reboot the washer's computer (didn't work for me). Looked at the drum like you said - no perceived problems. Had towels in there so maybe got off balance? Unplugged the washer, took towels out, hand spun the drum, reset the computer, plugged it in and it worked! Your point in checking the drum was vital.

[@brentbiel5425]

Had this problem on a similar model. Turned out to be a faulty solder connection on the power board pcb at the main AC filter coil. Removed the pcb from the potting compound (some destruction to the plastic) and resoldered the joint. Works a treat!

[@ChrisMichaelsChicago]

Yeah they just love to spray fluid film all over the components don't they? With my background and CRT television repair, I always have my trusty Columbo magnifying glass for finding those pesky cold solder joints. Just last week there was an old jolly guy who's Kenmore range with control/clock/membrane switch dealio went south right while he was in the middle of a huge cookie baking session. Egg sugar brown sugar flour chocolate, nuts, and roaches everywhere! LOL Although there is a company called concentric Solutions in Norridge Illinois rebuilders of discontinued membrane boards, I was able to get him going. He was happy as Santa Claus, so he gave me a bag of cookies, and an awesome Elvis mug was gold plating around the room and bottom and handle. Pretty cool. And he wasn't one of those look over your shoulder guys LOL

[@hellno67]

Thank you. I just did what you said and it worked. Hoping I can do this till I can get the part.

[@kennethcreed-harry5843]

Good

[@matiaanjansenvanrensburg771]

Took me almost 3 and a half hours to work the fuse out of the epoxy, but the replacement fuse did the trick. Thanks for the video

[@Arrmando777]

Can you please provide P/N on replacement fuse?

[@matiaanjansenvanrensburg771]

@@Arrmando777 I dont know about that. The old fuse said 250V 15A, so I just got another one like that

[@robertfries4656]

Hi, Im curious why my control bd in my washer has a blue dot in or on the fuse glass. The noise filter has the same numbers on it, but no blue dot.

[@ozzstars_cars]

Working on an LG top loader washer WT5070CW about 10 years old. I diagnosed a bad circuit board fuse that blew due to a stator nut that came loose and bound up the motor. Tightened nut, jumped fuse, all is good. Can you tell me what fuse type/size is required for this machine? I can't see the volts/amp marking because of the silicone on the board. Is there a schematic I can find the info? Thanks =Glen

[@awhonnflorida]

Thank you! 100% worked for me!

[@bryantwilliams9245]

Do I have to have the door screwed back in place in order for the washer panel to light up?

[@SiLLyBiLLy]

How did you take the top off? I unscrewed all of the components in the back and couldn’t figure out how to take off the top?

[@toonomam]

problem solved, thanks

[@sammyj184]

Dude your awesome. Thanks for the tip. U saved my piece of junk lg that didn’t work.. now my wife thinks I’m amazing and handy..

[@brucewenger6019]

Tim, I have spoken with your office and Servall Parts and understand you are the one who can help me. I have watched your very helpful video and have determined that I need to replace the main fuse on the control board for my LG washer model # WM3875HWCA . The heating element sensor was leaking onto the line into the heater element, it arched to ground (very evident by carbon trail to ground) I have checked the fuse with ohm meter and it is open, no reading. I would greatly appreciate it if you could tell me the amp/volt rating of an acceptable replacement fuse. I am in Phoenix Arizona.

[@byrdappliancespecialists3356]

They are typically labelled... very faintly. Cut it out, and gently dig it out of the gel. I can't be certain of the amps - they're all a little different. Every one I have dug out has something written on it - the manufacturers do not provide any info on this. Good luck.

[@suzanneladue5828]

Thank you for the video

[@michelletinajero5694]

I'm having this problem but the power comes and goes so I don't think it could be the fuse. Could it? It went out for a while a couple of years ago and then it was fine until today. Nothing turns on.

[@BustandBoom]

What size fuse does the Tromm take on the main board mine burnt out due to a ground fault and I can’t read the fuse size ??? Would it be 15 amp ?

[@joelfonza1056]

I'm having this problem with my top load lg model WT1101CW.. Could anyone please give me some advice on fixing it

[@jojomafia3851]

Is this the same on a Neptune Maytag washer? I can’t get it to turn back on but it’s got power the front load lights on when I open the door.

[@scottclark9542]

I have no power or lights on my Electrolux f l washer. I have power to the circuit board. Replaced the board and still no power. Any fuses or sensors that would eliminate power if bad?

[@TheNerdFerguson]

I can’t find the part 2 video he talks about. Does anyone have a link?

[@musahabibi4954]

Hi, my machine doesn't have a fuse bord, its an older model, what could be the other reasons that machine is not turning onn, i have check the current is passing through the capacitors but machine is not working

[@sammyj184]

How do I test the fuse to make sure it’s that? Can I just jumped it across? Just to see if it lights up!?

[@byrdappliancespecialists3356]

You could, if you're comfortable doing that. Or, you could test the fuse for continuity with a multimeter. Good luck!

[@RobertDelahaye]

So I got a question and your video was the closest I could find that showed any type of help. So washer stopped working, no power, ended up being control board. Repair man came out and replaced the control board, said it didnt work he then said i had to get a new washer. but when i looked into it he hooked it up all wrong. After I hooked it up correctly it started working. Ran a quick cycle to test it out and half way through it stopped working again and once again now power. After testing around it was that fuse that is blown. While it looks fairly easy to replace that fuse, something keeps blowing it, and I dont know where else to look. There are not any youtube video with this issue on my washer and the internet isnt really helping, just says replace the control board. but if it has blown two fuses, then its pointless to replace unless i can determin where the issue is coming from. Any suguestions? Whirlpool WFW5620HW0 4 years old

[@robhowatson7357]

My front load Kenmore looks identical to the LG. Possibly manufactured same place. I have been chasing a power problem now for over a year. I have reset every plug and ground I could find. But, every time the wash cycle completes it powers itself off or goes to sleep. I am unable to power it back on with the power button unless i unplug it for 30 - 60 seconds every time. Very frustrating because i think the problem is something simple. At first I thought it was the overload circuit tripping it but it will even shut down after the self clean cycle.

[@amartin803]

How to check the across twintub washing machine fuse keep on blowing

[@robertfries4656]

Hello Byrd Appliance Repairs I have a question regarding my LG Direct Drive motor emitting an electric burning type of odòr. I replaced the blown control board recently. Running tests in the beginning all was just fine. Loads washed, and not error codes displayed. Yesterday I washed 4, 1 hour long loads in the machine. I got to the 3rd load and all was okay, still. Left the garage for the 4th load, and when I returned there was this same odor of what I think is electric burning type of smell. The odor source is the Direct Drive motor assembly, and the aluminum cover for it was unusally HOTTER than the previous 3 laundry loads. Do you have any history regarding other people smelling this electric odor? Do you have any idea what it means? What should I do? The plug is disconnected from the socket since last night. The control board was also odiferous after the 4th load. Is this a normal thing with the Direct Drive engineering design? Am I not supposed to wash multiple loads of laundry consecutively, am I supposed to wait a certain amount of time before starting the next load? It does have a 10 year Direct Drive warranty, but since I am the 2nd owner, will the warranty pass onto me, or should I have the previous owner contact LG regarding this issue? Any thoughts would be appreciated. THx Robert

[@byrdappliancespecialists3356]

Your bearings are probably beginning to die, or the stator could be going out.

[@james6015]

Where can I purchase a replacement fuse?

[@Arrmando777]

Can you please provide P/N or speciications on replacement fuse?

[@Ruckster20]

Thank You for making this video!!

[@onceisting]

My washer keeps blowing outlet I plugged into other outlet now master power board hums and lights on board flashes. What should I look for to repair?

[@denraman6147]

Location of fuse for PCB of Bosch classixx washing machine

[@shakemsilly]

Voilà! Genius!

[@elixer73]

had lg tromm washer te code came up and won't start..change thermistor from amazon parts then now after changing it won't start ..but ive got power ..do you think i

[@robfries5368]

Hello Byrd Appliance Repairs, I tested the thermistor yesterday after work. The reading is: 053 at 200k Could not get any reading at lower than this dial selection. So, is this good? Videos of thermistors I viewed being tested were not at this high of a dial setting and this high of a number. Any ideas? THx Robert

[@byrdappliancespecialists3356]

Sounds reasonable... I think those are 40k ohns at 85f, not sure though.

[@robfries5368]

Hello Byrd appliances, I have an update for you regarding my LG frnt ld washer. Installed the new board the control panel turned on with the chime sound. Closed up the machine. The heater element and thermistor check out as functional with the readings. I will set it up today and run a couple of loads, first cold then hot with the heating element to see when and if the malfunction occurs in which part of the cycle. I hope it is not the pump, I emptied the pump gunk yesterday before reassembling the machine. This model does not provide a separate area on the front to reach the pump, the entire front of the machine has to come off in order to access the heater and the pump. How annoying.

[@sh19748]

Lg front loader wm2701HV. replaced bearings and seal. piece of cake. problem with start up. Replaced the noise filter... still no start. with this video I isolated the fuse, which I thought was at the base of things. removed the circuit board. scraped away sealant, then used soldering iron to remove the fuse. The fuse slips into two caps that are secured to the board. Try removing the caps and leave wires in place on the board. Fuse is a 240v 12A 65TL. In front of the 65TL there appears either a symbol or the letter B not certain till I replace it. But I am looking for success here.

[@byrdappliancespecialists3356]

+Steve Heinz nice detective work... the newer noise filters have fuses, too. For those that are willing and able to change out the fuses, at least you're not having to replace the boards. Big issue with the main board is that it is difficult and time consuming to switch out the caps, which do deteriorate over time as well. Good luck

[@leehuston3073]

Thanks for the info on that fuse. I got five on ebay for 5 or 6 bucks. Hopefully this will get me squared away after replacing the pump that was blowing the fuses.

[@leehuston3073]

I just soldered a new fuse on top of the old one and it works fine. It is hard to believe that they make this board without an easily changeable fuse. Ridiculous if you ask me, is this more of this globalization crap I guess!

[@larrywestfall7992]

The first step would be. Unplug the washer, Hold Power for 5 seconds then hold start for 5 seconds, plug washer back in. press power. This is a common issue with LG.

[@michaelw1725]

Thanks Larry for posting, that worked for me!

[@larrywestfall7992]

Michael W a power surge or lag can cause this. If it keeps happening replace the caps on the main board.

[@Rang76er]

Larry Westfall worked for me, too. Saved a huge headache and unmentionable amount of money. Thank you! You are the man!!

[@artwilmeth6944]

Laryy, that process didn't work for me ? What's next control board ¿

[@johnritz1457]

Larry, you saved my bacon. Many thanks.

[@Unsocial01]

Just check for power at the AC filter, simple.

[@elza8785]

Dino k

[@graham5208]

I have a Kenmore front load elite washer. It just stopped working no power, I had an appliance guy come out, he replaced the fuse, he plugged it back in, and the fuse blew again? What could it be?

[@user-dx6xm8bc7o]

How do I remove the computer box ? I can get the cover off but need to take whole box off and replace

[@renitaedmonds72]

Hi my GE FRONT LOADER COMES on but when I press start it just beeps but won't wash. What do I need to do? Help Please!!

[@byrdappliancespecialists3356]

Renita Boo Edmonds With little to go on, sounds like a problem with tbe door latch assembly. Search out more info. Good luck!

[@brusselsgarden7424]

Hi, my bosch varia Loggixx 8 stopped mid wash and the power is gone. I tried the knob and it started then power off again. The door can't open too. Help! Am in Philippines and no technicians dare to help saying its made in Germany.

[@D.AverageJoe]

Did you fix it?.. What was the problem?

[@user-ko9fv6mg9o]

So the washers spider thing was broken?

[@joshk5866]

I have an LG WM2350HSC front load washer and it will not power up by pressing the start button. However, when I spin the drum manually it powers up for a second (sometime 5-10) and then I here a click and it turns off. Any thoughts? fuse in the control board or maybe the control/display board. Tx

[@byrdappliancespecialists3356]

+Josh K Hard to diagnose. Too many variables. You'll need a multimeter and a tech sheet. The fuse can be ruled out with a continuity test at the fuse. Are lights on at the display panel? If yes, the clicking noise could be a blown relay on the main control board. Try to find a tech sheet, or you'll be guessing. You'll be doing live tests - don't do them if you're not familiar with electricity.

[@joshk5866]

Thx for the quick reply- the lights do come on at the display panel as it powers up. I can turn the knob and it does show more on the display board but shuts off almost immediately, the "click" does sound as though it is coming from the main control board so I am thinking the display panel can be ruled out. I will look into the tech sheet. TX again!

[@justydzah5839]

I pulsed the washer when the tap stopped flowing after the tap started flowing the power is not turning on. what has gone wrong

[@byrdappliancespecialists3356]

Justy Dzah Not sure what you're saying... by tap, you mean water flowing? If water is flowing with no power, then the valve is probably stuck open. Not sure what pulsed means. If you have no power to your console, that is either the main board or console. Check for power to the board, then check for power coming from the board to the control panel.

[@jeffbreton1859]

Nothing happen when I press ON/OFF button. Unplug the 115v plug then replug and Washer work perfectly until the end of the washing. After the "musical beep show" end I need to unplug again at every load. The plug is back of the machine so it's pain in the ass! Any idea ?

[@byrdappliancespecialists3356]

Sounds like a capacitor in the board going bad. It's getting a little kick from being powered down, then back up. You'll have to check power going to and from the main board. Very difficult to diagnose unless you have a complete breakdown. Testing voltage when it's in the broken state will be the only way.

[@jeffbreton1859]

Wow, what a quick reply! Your diagnostic seems toughtful. So I will play the "plug/unplug" game until a complete breakdown and then check for a bad capacitor on the main board. Thank's a lot and thumb up for your fast reply! (PS: I will give you a feedback after the repair)

[@byrdappliancespecialists3356]

+Jeff Breton You could also try cleaning wiring connections. One may be a little loose or dirty, most commonly between the control panel and main board. Good luck.

[@YeshuaLives]

what is common size/amp of fuse for washer of similar model to one on video?

[@byrdappliancespecialists3356]

+YeshuaLives Generally, 3 amp. BUT... check for markings on the fuse, if/when you cut it out. It is mandatory that you use the correct fuse.

[@beverlychristopher5785]

I have a whirlpool duet 2016 model and it just stopped working. No power. Can't even get door open to get blankets out. Any one know what to do? I'd really apprechiate any help with this.

[@beverlychristopher5785]

I meant washer. Not model.

[@byrdappliancespecialists3356]

+Beverly Christopher unplug it. Take the top off. There should be a release on the lock. You'll have to look up how to do it on another video. As for the power issue - could be a lot of things.

[@pattihaven8502]

The washer had power, door light is on, I have power. But nothing else will come on? Help

[@MsWalt22]

When I spun the inside of the washer manually the front panel lit up. What would cause that?

[@byrdappliancespecialists3356]

You're feeding power from the drive motor to the computer in reverse. You supplied the energy, rather than your wall outlet.

[@MsWalt22]

@@byrdappliancespecialists3356 so does that mean I need a new circuit board? Not sure how to repair that

[@byrdappliancespecialists3356]

No. That's just the nature of electricity- you're acting like the power plant.

[@dmchampagne8]

Where is part 2 where you show removing the fuse?

[@delorisharpt6597]

Lights flash, but when you turn the knob push on power it won't let you start the the washer. It says CL.

[@gilmarzp]

hi im fron costa rica i hace de whashermachine samsung wf425000aw-a2 no power on, bord is god voltage god no power on

[@byrdappliancespecialists3356]

+Bullfrog gilktha Check for power between the control board and the user interface. Clean wire harnesses between them. If you find power to the user interface, but it does not light up, the problem is likely in the user interface.

[@YeshuaLives]

just replaced fuse on similar model, it blew up again (literally) what can be causing fuse to blow? thanks

[@byrdappliancespecialists3356]

+YeshuaLives Bad motor or stressed motor due to bearing, or broken spider, is the most common. Check to see if steel drum is wobbly and loose from the out plastic tub. If so, get ready for some major repairs ;)

[@shafiqahmed2192]

Byrd Appliance Specialists could you please let me know what could be the problem with my washer.there is no power at all.it is a samsung WFO804W8E model

[@byrdappliancespecialists3356]

+Shafiq Ahmed Too much to go over. This video is just one big one, where the repair gets pretty expensive.

[@james6015]

Where did you find a replacement fuse? Thanks.

[@jamesleonard7251]

This was a waste of time and money. Got a new mother board, only to find out it was a $40 noise filter, which you don't even mention...thanks mate..good job

[@jamesleonard7251]

Oh yeah, the noise filter is there to stop the motherboard from surging, bye the fucking way

[@byrdappliancespecialists3356]

+JAMES LEONARD Sorry you spent the money on a board. We are trying to show a case where you would get in trouble buying a board, only to have it blown again, if you don't check for problems with the drum first. There are plenty of problems that produce no power. This one is specific to a broken drum. Better luck next time.

[@jamesleonard7251]

Why dont you call the video burnt fuse because of a broken drum then? Instead when i type in no power your clip comes up. Why would you not even mention to check the noise filter ? This is a list of your instructions- #1 check breaker #2 check plug socket for power #3 check for burnt out fuse after checking for shorts and grounds #4 THE FUSE IS IN THE MOTHER BOARD They are your instructions to diagnose. Do you not agree you should mention the fuse in the noise filter during instruction #3 bur certainly before #4 to help us out here in youtube diy land to further diagnose our faults. I Think any body who tries to fix there own machine will know if the drum is broke then the machine needs to be replaced . Were just looking for diagnostic tips from a pro

[@jeremysabido9036]

iam from Belize my hot point washer full but dont wash.how to fix

[@byrdappliancespecialists3356]

Jeremy Sabido try the lid switch first.

[@jeremysabido9036]

Byrd Appliance Specialists where is the led switch located on the washer?

[@byrdappliancespecialists3356]

+Jeremy Sabido the lid switch is completes the circuit with a magnet connected to the lid. You must verify that the lid switch has continuity with the magnet in place next to the switch. Check out our video on GE agitator removal - it's the same as Hotpoint, if you have a Top-load. It could also be many other things, but start there.

[@msm4r1t2a]

What about GE WASHERS

[@djcubical]

Make sure you socket is powered. Mine wasn't, using an extension cord. Ghetto but shit works.

[@byrdappliancespecialists3356]

+dj cubical Try not to run major appliances on an extension cord for too long. You don't know what blew the breaker. If there is a problem in the machine, it could lead to fires. Have your breaker checked (most likely), or look for deterioration at the wall outlet. Stay safe...

[@artwilmeth6944]

I removed the control board on LG front load washer after all other tests were done including unplugging the machine and holding power and start buttons for 5 seconds each as suggested in other videos. I had the board tested and it checked out OK . Is it possible that the problem is in the display / start panel in front of the washer ?

[@byrdappliancespecialists3356]

+ART WILMETH in general, power flows from the noise filter to the control board. Then from the control board to the panel on many machines. You'll have to track voltage with a wiring diagram.

[@artwilmeth6944]

Byrd, thank you. Is it safe to assume that since the control board checks out ok the problem is in the noise filter ? Where is the noise filter located ? Can I test the noise filter for continuity ?

[@byrdappliancespecialists3356]

+ART WILMETH Follow the plug inside to the noise filter. It will be the first computer-looking part, smaller than your fist, typically. With the machine plugged in, you can look for voltage leaving the noise filter. Usually, black and white wires run in. Brown and red run out, usually. There are probably ground wires on the in and out. Don't worry about them. Test voltage on the brown and red, that are leaving the noise filter. No voltage, then replace filter. Be careful with live voltage - make sure you are comfortable with live testing before you start.

[@artwilmeth6944]

Byrd, thanks I located the noise filter which has blue , brown and red coming out of it . If no voltage is coming out of the noise filter should I replace it ?

[@byrdappliancespecialists3356]

+ART WILMETH if you find it going in, and not coming out, then replace it. Good luck!

[@ronnielemons9406]

Can't see my washer

[@olomoshakinolumide8742]

can I apply same process to top loader?

[@byrdappliancespecialists3356]

+Olomoshakin Raphael Kayode Sometimes... there are other things that cause no power, but suspect fuses and voltage to the machine first.

[@melissaskelton5200]

No power at all on top load washer

[@suzanneladue5828]

Fuses or electric cord wet and shorted from pipes bursting ..... water everywhere. No power at all and my washer is top load and full of clothes

[@melissacallaway6552]

I'm going to give this a try... is this a permanent fix for you guys or a temporary?

[@byrdappliancespecialists3356]

Melissa callaway If you mean checking the fuse; then if it's bad, you have to determine the cause of the fuse being blown. If you solder in a new fuse, it will likely blow if you haven't solved the original problem.

[@sammyj184]

Melissa callaway Melissa let me know if it solved your issue

[@pennymiller1277]

Rather than tearing the whole washing machine apart , why don’t you try rebooting it by unplugging it, and pushing the two buttons on the front separately for five seconds, then plugging it back in and seeing if it won’t start

[@robfries5368]

Hello, Perhaps you can shed some light on my no power issue. There was a burning electrical smell emitting from my LG front load washer from 2014. The heater coil turned on to heat the water to warm because the water from the tank was not warm enough. Then when my house guest put her clothes in and pressed the sanitize wash, the smell worsened. I returned to a D O A machine with water still in it. My thought is something in the heater coil resulted in a dead board. My original control board red diode light would not glow so the board is dead, I'm informed. The board has a white fuse with a blue dot on the glass. Does this mean that the fuse is not good any more? I ordered a replacement control board and the same thing with the fuse, it has a blue dot in the glass, but in a different spot in the fuse. I don't want to connect it because if it is a bad board, then I don't want to be the one to make it worse. The noise filter in the machine functions fine with my multimeter gives me the 120V in and out of it. Now, the noise filter has the exact same fuse, HOWEVER, there is no blue dot displaying on the glass anywhere that I can see. What does this blue dot mean? Is the fuse not any good? I want to test the control board fuse for continuity before I attempt to connect it. What numbers should I expect to display for continuity in the fuse and what do I put my meter dial to. THx Robert

[@byrdappliancespecialists3356]

0 ohms. You'll have to push the leads into the compound to get a good connection. If the fuse blew, it received to many amps. If you can't find any grounded loads, you may have a problem that the video is suggesting - if you don't have a problem with the bearings or spider arm, then maybe the board just fried. Your situation is very difficult to diagnose. You want to make sure you don't blow the board again. Good luck.

[@robfries5368]

Good morning Byrd Appliance Specialists! Well, I have an update for you. The new board with the new fuse does read zero, as you mentioned, so this board and fuse are good. However, is it okay for me to partially connect the power to the machine and board, and then "not" to all the peripherals, just to see if the red diode emits it's "glow?" Because then I know that I don't have to send it back before my 30 days are up. At approx 2:30 this morning I finished removing the front washer panel on my front loader. washer spider: checked, in good condition, no wobbles inside plastic casing, the entire plastic casing moves when attempting to check for any spider wobbles. bearings: the basket spins freely, absolutely no noises such as grinding, or anything like that Pulled out the heater element and tested it. The coil results: Ohms: 14.5 Contin: 014 Thermistor:Is this reading supposed to be like this, could this be the main issue, is the thermistor has failed? Ohms: 1____* Contin: 1____* *This is the default screen display when the meter is turned on, it does not change from this when testing the thermistor. I checked both of the thermistor pins and the reading did not change, then I tested the thermistor itself, not the pins, each time I did it, the numbers changed and always reverted back to the default screen display. I used an ohm calculator app from the google play store last night. and filled in the volts and watts on the heat element. Calculations for the heating element: Volts: 120 Amps: 8.5 Ohms: 14.5 Watts: 1000 The ohms seem to be right on target with the multimeter results. Q: Is it possible for the thermistor to pull too much amperage and blow the fuse, or damage the board? Next test today is for the water pump. Q: Is the water pump the same as the water recirculation pump? Q: Are there 2 pumps, is what I'm asking? Q: Is it okay to input a little more water to wash large items such as king sized bed covers into the machine? Q: Will this put strain on the direct drive motor, possibly resulting in pulling extra voltage and amps that would blow the fuse? Q: Is it possible that I burned out the motor using the extra water? If I don't then the blanket just spin with the drum and never flop around, never getting cleaned. Info: The "Fe" message displayed after the machine input more water that the program was supposed to in addition to my extra water. The water would be pumped out and then the machine would continue where it left off during the cycle. The water level "never" reached 1/2 way up the glass. Info: The electrical burning smell started when my water heater storage was not hot enough. The heater turned on because the thermistor reading that the programmed temp for the "warm" water was not warm enough. Then when my guest selected the "sanitize" wash cycle, the smell emitted worsened, and I switched it back to a warm wash cycle. That load finished, The next load of towels on the warm temp setting did not finish, it was DOA on this load. Any ideas what I should test for next? Info: The washer is connected to the original electric panel controlled by fuses I know this by checking the fuses. This fuse box is connected to the updated breaker panel on the side of garage, which is connected to the ground with a copper pole through the cement. There is no breaker for the fuse panel. The socket is getting electricity, yes, I have my original washer connected again and this one moved to another spot in the garage. Is this too much info? THx, Robert

[@robfries5368]

For all you do, thank you for any and all the time you take to consult us lay repair people with our appliance repair issues. Individuals do not understand that these newer machines with all the electronic controls installed into them are quite delicate and like any machine, parts have life spans, some just last longer than in others houses. They do not take the time to actually learn about their machines, and read the diagrams, etc. They just want you to tell them what exactly needs fixing, and that is not an exact science with each machine. Though the machines have similar parts that perform the same, parts don't last forever, and appliance repairs with all the computer parts in them is not an "exact" science. It is not your responsibility to reach through the internet with your testing prongs and test the machines for us. So you forget a step, and then they make it seem like you don't know what you are doing because each machine, though the same, needs to be troubleshooted step by step. Today's repair step is to check the pump with the multimeter, then whilst I'm at it I can check all the other single areas with it. I want to test every electronic part, not including the water solenoids because they definitely function. Air pressure solenoid Heater element: done Thermistor: done Water pump Motor How do I test the motor with a multimeter? What numbers do I look for in the OHMS and continuance? THank you very much for all your time and assistance. Your like an appliance "therapist!!"

[@byrdappliancespecialists3356]

Usually the large red, yellow, and blue wires from the harness at the board to the drive motor. Each should have low resistance, like 1-3 ohms - 0 ohms means it's short. Pull the harness off the computer and check 2 lines at a time, i.e. blue to yellow, blue to red. Also, for each check for grounding through the circuit. Grounding screw to red, etc. That's all you can do electrically within reason.

[@byrdappliancespecialists3356]

Very possible that you overloaded the drive by adding extra water. Water weighs roughly 8lbs/gallon. The burning smell could have been the motor. The thermistor is on low voltage DC, so it probably will not bother the board. The fuse blows on high voltage ac. There are 2 pumps sometimes - drain and circulation. The heater probably did not cause the issue - very rare. You may be getting a bad reading from your meter on the thermistor... it's probably fine - they have high ohms values, so if you dont have a digital meter, you'll want to set it at 20k, most likely. If the fault occurred after you added water on heavy bedding, suspect only the board blew, but make sure to test your motor electrically to see if any windings failed. Good luck

[@kef103]

240p common man

[@SaRaHHluChAn]

was this your fuse? what model #? I got mine out but there is nothing written on it. I have a WM3455HS

[@graham5208]

It never had electricity come to it.

[@andy.walker]

its fcked mate.

[@bealcu]

If people are so dumb that they didn’t check the power then they really shouldn’t be repairing anything

[@Viper61769]

Um ZERO HELP BROTHER

[@jamesleonard7251]

Any body need a motherboard that's got fuck all wrong with it

[@delangaming5384]

You dont know nothing on how to check pcb parts

[@larrywestfall7992]

The issue with trying to troubleshoot the PCB is that on my LG it is encased in a gel block.

[@blairakana9984]

Your title says nothing about a broken tub. You’re going all over the place explaining. Get back to the circuitboard and open it up and show us a blown fuse like you were stating. But you didn’t.

[@metaluna1000]

too much time wasted asking if you plugged it in, explaining the importance in using a working outlet. halfway through the video he was still trying to drive home the concept of the importance of being sure you know the importance of electricity using these machines. He didn't mention calling in to see if the area has a blackout, in which your appliance will not work properly