dialing work off center in a lathe using a 4-jaw chuck

[@paulgreenlee190]

It's been a year and I'm looking at this video once again before I set up my lathe chuck for a similar project. I can't imagine why you haven't had any more comments on this. You did a great job explaining every step and precaution needed to machine safely. Thanks so much.

[@machiningmoments]

Thanks Paul I'm glad it was helpful. I really appreciate you watching and making time to leave a comment.

[@paulgreenlee190]

Great video, excellent job explaining the steps and demonstrating dialing in an off center piece in a lathe. I really learned a lot watching this one. Videos like this really help us hobbyist trying to learn new tricks. Thank you

[@machiningmoments]

It was my pleasure, thanks for making time to leave a comment.

[@TheBsavage]

Excellent. You mentioned adding weights in case of vibration. I guess I'll have to look up videos that show that, but your video shows the depth of knowledge machinists have from experience. Truly remarkable. I have 3 college degrees and I greatly admire the acumen level displayed by so called "blue collar" workers. It definitely rivals people with degrees, as many I know that've gotten through college are dolts.

[@machiningmoments]

You would need a chuck with t-slots cut into it between the jaws. Weights are added to the slots and moved towards/away from center to find balance. I've been fortunate to work with some really gifted people and I've learned a lot. Young people have a lot to teach with technology as an example. I always tell my students "we are all teachers". Thank you for your kind words.

[@acer8123]

Ever since I took a university course that involved me in using machining tools I've always wanted to work with them again (never had the chance since covid hit). This was one of the unanswered questions I had since my part only required a 3 jaw chuck, I had no idea how to dial in anything that isnt round or off centered. Great informative video!

[@machiningmoments]

It's a lot of fun playing in the machine shop. Thanks for watching and leaving a message.

[@Constitutionalist52]

It’s very much appreciated that people actually take the time to make these very educational videos, thanks 🙏.

[@machiningmoments]

I do this because of responses like yours, thanks for your message and watching!

[@MrKennected]

As a cnc router operator, I appreciate the explanation. A 4 jaw chuck has always intimidated me. Maybe not so much now. Kinda makes me want to go out and buy a lathe.

[@TheeAthis]

Little trick I use is to chuck up the dead center in the tail stock, lock the stock, and while holding the plate, with the jaws open enough where they don't interfere, introduce pressure with the tail stock until it presses the metal plate against the jaws. You then lightly tighten the jaws, and proceed exactly as you did. The advantage is, it gets you a lot closer to center quicker, making less adjustments to the jaws. Just a time saver.

[@machiningmoments]

I agree, your way works good.

[@therussianmachinists2409]

this method works so well, I don't even bother wasting my time dialing in my part closer

[@machiningmoments]

Yes I've used your technic many times, your right often it is close enough! Thanks for sharing your expertise.

[@aj7utu]

Why would anyone not use this method which is obvious? The business in the video is ridiculous.

[@aliawadallhhassnawadallhha603]

رائعه

[@russellbarnhardt]

This is a great way to dial in eccentric pieces! I use the same method! Glad to see your still being the master!

[@machiningmoments]

Russell Barnhardt Not really, just sharing what I've learned. How are you? Kids? Great to hear from you Russ!

[@russellbarnhardt]

machiningmoments things are going well! Busy as ever!

[@Fred196407]

Good to see fella. Not many would think of that but merely put their center in the drilled hole. I was taught this method by an old turner I met in a unit where I worked after getting my old Myford super severn. I made my bar from ground stock. It is the best way. I was trying to tell a newbie to lathe's friend the other day and I said I bet there is a youtube video on it and better than me trying to explain it if you don't know the terms. Then I found this so I'll Link it to him. Thanks for posting.

[@machiningmoments]

+Fred196407 Hi Fred, thanks for the note and helping the next generation learn. I too learned tricks like this from an "old timer"...funny, I have become the old timer! Good point about the ground stock.

[@ABCMAN94]

I normally don't work with square offset pieces like this, but that rod you used to indicate the piece in is something I will definitely store in the back of my mind. Never thought of that.

[@machiningmoments]

ABCMAN94 Just a different way of approaching the problem. Thanks for watching.

[@derekhead5574]

As a retired toolmaker making moulds for plastic bottles this was done on a daily basis.The parts were halves of moulds usually 4 impression so 4 bores ,each one had to be accurate to .001.I had to clock each part machine the move and so on.The biggest moulds I did the steel blocks were 13"x6"x8" when offset to machine the last bore they needed 25kg of counterbalance

[@machiningmoments]

I enjoy watching Toolmakers work, very precise!

[@LilGiantsConstrCo]

Great work! I don't have much experience with machining, no schooling. That center shaft is a great bit of ingenuity.

[@machiningmoments]

LilGiantsConstrCo Thank you. Keep working at it, you will get experience!

[@noyyalindustries9736]

Realy good explanation for centering of square jobs.

[@machiningmoments]

Thank you

[@pieterbotes8938]

Use a lever type dial indicator and adjust hole towards the center by halving the total reading. You can get it very close to true by using the center (light pressure) to hold the block when you start and then bring the jaws in until it touches the block. Then use lever type dial indicator for final setting. Always works and is quick!

[@machiningmoments]

Thanks for sharing.

[@crookedriver2079]

You did that pretty fast! I recently bought a centering microscope that will fit the tailstock or the mill spindle. You video makes me think "why do I need the centering scope for the lathe, after watching this?" But I guess it will stil come in handy on the mill with a rotary table or the dividing head when I have a four chuck on them for milling, boring, drilling odd shaped or eccentric pieces (and that DOES happen from time to time in model engineering, like scale locomotives and such). Thanks!!

[@machiningmoments]

That would be an ideal tool of small parts, very accurate.

[@metricstormtrooper]

I love the simplicity of your explanations. Many thanks

[@machiningmoments]

I'm glad you liked it. Thank you for your kind comment.

[@Tapajara]

Much better than videos whose makers are too shy to say anything. Nice tutorial.

[@machiningmoments]

+Tapajara Thank you!

[@pieterbotes8938]

Brother, you have one of the best chucks in the world. I envy you!

[@machiningmoments]

Thanks, I'm very fortunate to have a good budget.

[@jonsey3645]

Love the esoteric info that you pro's share. It's amazing and frankly bewildering how hard it is in the workplace to get these kinds of nuggets.

[@machiningmoments]

Thank you

[@beepcode]

Well done sir. My only difference is that I just use a wiggler in the tailstock to indicate the runout rather than a machined piece. Also measuring the offset to center to start the setup makes things a lot easier. Have an upvote.

[@machiningmoments]

Your way also works well.

[@GarryFullerSr]

Very Nice. Looked easy with that rod you made and turning around 2 of the jaws.

[@machiningmoments]

The nice thing with a 4-jaw chuck is you can reverse any jaw or all. It makes a great stop for the back of the plate.

[@paulmeynell8866]

Just what I needed to know thankyou. How do you add a counter weight?

[@machiningmoments]

Hi Paul, glad it helped. Some 4-jaw chucks, usually larger, have t-slots in the face. The slots are between the Jaws running towards the center of the chuck. These slots are used to bolt counterweight. Thanks for watching and your note. Bison%204-Jaw%20Independent%20Lathe%20Chuck16%22%20Size%2C%20D1-6%20Spindle%20-%207-853-1636%20%20Four-jaw%20standard%20duty%20independent%20Lathe%20C...

[@mickforquer7632]

Using the center was a great way to cut your set up time. Thanks for the tip.

[@machiningmoments]

Mick Forquer It's a neat trick!

[@eng_abdulmajeedalqurashi7179]

Thank you... your video is now a homework report that is due tomorrow.. A Mechanical Engineering student, Taif University, Saudi Arabia...

[@machiningmoments]

+Abedmajeed Al-Qurashi Well I'm honoured! Thanks for your note and good luck with your homework!

[@oscarelenes3914]

awesome outside the box turning, very educational.

[@machiningmoments]

Glad to hear you liked it, thanks.

[@captaingreenbush]

great trick, you could do this with most standard dead centers too as most have a center drill hole in the end of the shank from when they were originally ground, no need for a special shaft. thank you for sharing this!

[@machiningmoments]

+captaingreenbush Another option, thanks for your post!

[@thomasdingo5191]

Great video, nice and clear audio and video. Thanks

[@triggerguard1]

I've used that same method myself, as well as using two crossed scribe lines for rough work. With a little Dykem and two scribe lines, you can detect center pretty darn close. Good vid.

[@machiningmoments]

+GrizzlyMtn I've done the same with the lines worked better when my eyes were younger!

[@davecox900]

Nice to watch a video on here without all the music banging out and good content well done will make the tool for my dial indicator to run on good trick

[@machiningmoments]

I have a low budget production!

[@TheDefeatest]

Love the turned shaft Idea!

[@machiningmoments]

Thanks it works well.

[@buyamerican3191]

Very nice demonstration. good content without over editorializing!

[@machiningmoments]

Thanks for your kind words and watching.

[@SteveOLive88]

You sir have my respect as a machinist

[@machiningmoments]

Thank you

[@SteveOLive88]

machiningmoments I've done this the hard way too long

[@monteiro4100]

Nice job man, sooner or later I will get a lathe and put my old skills to test again. love turning metal into art and this video is inspiring. thanks for sharing this.

[@machiningmoments]

Glad you liked it, thanks for saying so. I hope you are able to get a lathe, machining is fun!

[@craigspakowski7398]

I have used this technique but instead of making a tool I just used the dead center that came with my lathe. The end of the dead center has a center hole from the original grinding. Works great.

[@machiningmoments]

That works great Craig!

[@MrShobar]

You're correct.

[@David-uy3qf]

Brilliant video, I didn't need to know this, I don't even have a lathe but I was hooked! Subscribed

[@machiningmoments]

I'm glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for watching.

[@nlo114]

I think I'll be turning up a centering-bar this weekend...

[@machiningmoments]

+nlo114 A nice addition to the toolbox!

[@db2loud]

I'm not even seasoned Machinist and I could have figured it out but I want you to let me know what to do when you don't have a Chuck that tightens in 4 places but one that tightens in 3 places with 4 Jaws

[@machiningmoments]

I'm not sure I understand what your asking? ..."one that tightens in 3 places with 4 Jaws". Can you clarify please?

[@MrShobar]

You need a four jaw chuck to hold square workpieces, and to hold objects off-center.

[@mechanical1955]

Great way of doing it , in the toolmaking trade we use a small fixed centre between the rotating centre and the centre drill hole and index off this so it wobbles the same , save making the tapered tool you have made and they are hardened steel and will last forever Nice one same principal , Keep up the good work , Alan

[@machiningmoments]

+alan manning Hi Alan, a hardened steel tool would be ideal! Thanks for your knowledge and post!

[@terrinewman7390]

I don't about Mike but I really learned from it! I own a 109 series dunlap lathe and want to make a tail stocl locking device that works with a cam actiom, now I know how to set it upst start! thanks.

[@machiningmoments]

Glad it was helpful, thanks for your note.

[@nickmiller76]

What I don't get is: if he had the part set up in a milling machine to do the initial centre-drilling, why didn't he then replace the centre-drill with a twist drill of the required size and just go ahead and drill the hole?

[@machiningmoments]

The point was if you needed to set a piece up in a lathe, maybe to rework it, this would help dial in something odd shaped.

[@armdaMan]

Yes. Good one. Did exactly the same thing just yesterday with a heavier n larger plate. How would one counter-balance the the overhang without using a Face Plate ??? Thanks anyway for showing and sharing ATB aRM

[@machiningmoments]

In the past I have used a 4-jaw with T-slots between the jaws. It is very convenient to attach a counterweight to. If you can't rig something up I'd recommend low RPM or your suggestion of a face plate. Thank you for sharing!

[@pieterbotes8938]

Good budget!! Please don't rub it in brother. I'm in pain when I look at such fine equipment and realize I can only dream of owning it. Happy turning.

[@machiningmoments]

Sorry :(

[@ChrisBrown-dy8ts]

You can clock up the off centre hole using a "dead centre" if you have one .

[@machiningmoments]

That works good.

[@haynillesen]

My 3-jaw and especially 4-jaw chuck are way too heavy to change , so i weld a round piece to the square (or any other shape) , do the work i need to do and cut of the round piece . much faster , but only when accuracy is not important

[@machiningmoments]

Chucks can get very heavy, I always appreciate a lift near by.

[@davidwillard7334]

So How Much ! Does your Lathe Weigh !?

[@haynillesen]

@@davidwillard7334 4000 kg

[@davidwillard7334]

So How Much ! DOES !! The BAR !! Your ! Machining !! Weigh !?

[@janjansen9037]

@@davidwillard7334 You asked how much the lathe weighed and i answered the question! Well oke , my 4- jaw is 38cm in diameter and 11 cm wide , it s out of a massive piece of steel and an adapter is attached . I ve calculated it must weigh about 70 kg . I can hardly lift it and defenitely not on my lathe .

[@rogergroover4971]

Very cool technique! Thanks for the education!

[@machiningmoments]

My pleasure. Thank you for watching and taking time to leave a message.

[@DanielVidz]

Why would anybody dislike this video? I scrolled down to drop a like and was stunned to see 170 or so people had. Great video, thanks :)

[@machiningmoments]

Thank you

[@andyalberto2970]

I'm truly convinced it's kids just being dicks or miserable haters. If you don't like it why comment unless it's something that is really unsafe and could injure someone?

[@jeffryblackmon4846]

This is very cool. I'll give it a try in the shop, just for practice and for fun.

[@machiningmoments]

Glad you liked it. Slow RPM!

[@Kotikjeff]

Might be a good idea to clock the face as you are only parallel on two jaws. Jeff

[@machiningmoments]

Good suggestion!

[@EvoKeremidarov]

thank you for the great video... as someone new to machining i have learned a lot.

[@machiningmoments]

It was my pleasure, thanks for watching and taking the time to leave a note. Welcome to machining, you are going to love it!

[@AkankshaFashion]

Very helpful video... For lathe Oprater...

[@machiningmoments]

I'm glad it was helpful, thank you for watching.

[@jetmirkorani852]

well, could someone ask my question why would you need to put such a piece on a lathe ? there is like a drilling machine or milling one. For what kind of pieces is this needed ?

[@machiningmoments]

You likely wouldn't do this...unless you don't own a drill press or a mill.

[@FrBobLaceySD]

most drill presses cannot go to a large diameter and if precision is needed, a lathe may be the best option - rather a 'boring' example - for instance, mounting a bearing in a special housing and location.

[@ronalddavis]

Yeah what if you needed to bore a hole and tap it say 12 threads per inch. say your hole is 2 inches. Wanna buy a 2'-12 tap? Better have deep pockets.The lathe would be the way to go on something like that.

[@MrEh5]

Best to do that with all four jaws reversed if the part allows it or use a spider to support the side of piece that is not resting on the jaws. Great video! Keep up the good work!

[@machiningmoments]

+Bob Cartwright If I remember right the issue was the jaws touching each other before it was able to tighten on the material. Thanks for your support, stay warm!

[@TheDefeatest]

So why the soft pieces of material in between jaw and part? To protect part?

[@machiningmoments]

Yes, it protects the finish on the part.

[@jaromirstola937]

machiningmoments uz

[@AndrewVee08]

I put a wiggler in the tail stock with a ball end and indicate it

[@machiningmoments]

That works great.

[@jawdatfares2831]

I don't know haw to thank you sr you are the master,,,thanks again that was awesome to see good place you

[@machiningmoments]

Im happy you found it helpful. Thank you for watching and your note.

[@JR-rc6vd]

Good trick i learnt that when doing big wellheads having to put counter weights on fun times

[@machiningmoments]

Ah yes, counterweights. It sure helps.

[@Foxyjosh]

@@machiningmoments I'm about to do a large project with a 4 jaw in my lathe. It's a pretty hefty chunk of steel. How does one go about knowing how much weight to put on

[@machiningmoments]

@@Foxyjosh Good question. You need a chuck with a way to bolt a counterweight to it. Having t- slots in the face between the jaws makes this easy. Put your lathe in neutral the chuck will rotate to the heavy side...6 o'clock. Add the weight at 12 o'clock. I drill a hole in round stock maybe 3 inch dia. 2- 3 inches long (depending on how heavy your part is) slide it over a t- nut and stud and tighten a nut on the other side. Move the weight towards and away from center until the part will not move in any position in 360 degrees. It should be balanced. Watch your rpm, it is not meant to turn fast. Watch your fingers there is a lot going on with that chuck face. Good luck.

[@rahulrajput4476]

How teeth on jaa can made...my lathe Chuck became old so it needs teeths on ja for properly caughting tha jobs.....made a vedio for that

[@machiningmoments]

I'm sorry I don't fully understand. Are you asking me how to repair worn out chuck jaws?

[@northernmetalworker]

Excellent video, I'm still being taught by you I see. Things are also going great up in the great white north, I'll likely see you again in a year!

[@machiningmoments]

northernmetalworker Thank you! We all learn from each other, it will be good to see you again. Stay warm!

[@jorgeesss]

y ese eje donde lo piusiste en el chuck porta broca

[@machiningmoments]

Lo siento, tu comentario no se tradujo muy bien al inglés.

[@Skyrunner13]

Excellent video and well explained.

[@machiningmoments]

Thank you. I appreciate you watching and making time to leave a message.

[@JoaoSantos-hf2yj]

A popular placa do MILAGRE # fiquei de queixo caído com a habilidade com o modo e a rapidez na centragem da PEÇA

[@machiningmoments]

Obrigado pelas suas palavras gentis. Em fairless, venho fazendo isso há muito tempo. Obrigado por assistir e comentar.

[@michaelatkinson4434]

But the workpiece is sitting further away from the chuck face on the two jaws you reversed, no? It is snug into those two jaws, but for the jaws you didn't reverse it is just floating and it may move once pressure is applied by the tool...

[@machiningmoments]

There is an incredible amount of force applied by the four jaws, the part shouldn't move.

[@markfryer9880]

The next question is why you would need to do this? I guess part of the answer would depend upon what equipment you have in your workshop and just what you are trying to achieve.

[@machiningmoments]

Some struggle with dialing a four jaw. It's can be a useful tip.

[@lubomirpetrowpahuta]

Dobre rozwiązanie. Chociaż by zrobić otwór o typowym rozmiarze wiertła to szybciej zdecydowałbym o skorzystaniu z wiertarki słupowej.

[@nardaoeletronica]

Excellent work

[@machiningmoments]

Thanks, I appreciate you watching.

[@akshaykumarvyas]

great video, but some questions. the centre shaft that you made wobbles more near the part than at the tail stock . so the wobbling varies along the length of the centre shaft which means that the accuracy of dialing the center would depend a lot on where your dial plunger tip is on the shaft. is that right? in this video the dial plunger was nearer to the part but you could have gone further to get a more accurate dialing of the part, dont you think so?

[@machiningmoments]

+Akshay Vyas Good question, I believe the greater accuracy would come from the dial indicator close to the chuck as that is where the maximum run out is.

[@akshaykumarvyas]

So is there any other better method.

[@machiningmoments]

+Akshay Vyas There are others...using a milling machine and an edge finder may be easier. Just another option.

[@AshuSharma-cj6ne]

To hold cylindrical workpiece which type of jaw may be used ?

[@machiningmoments]

A three or four-jaw chuck can be used...or a collet chuck if the cylindrical part is ground.

[@9sec93lx]

That's a great trick to get your workpiece on center quickly. You mentioned adding counterweights. How would you go about doing that in this case? Tommy

[@machiningmoments]

Best Racing Tips Win At The Dragstrip Hi Tommy, most 4-jaw chucks have elongated slots on the face to take t-nuts (not this chuck). The easiest way is to face a short length of round stock and drill a hole through the center. Place the stock over the stud and t-nut and hold it tight with a nut. The stock should be opposite the offset of the material being machined (square plate in this case). The elongated slots allow the stock to be moved towards/away from chuck center to find the balance point. Thanks for the question, hope this helps.

[@9sec93lx]

I see. I've done off-centered turning using a faceplate before, but couldn't see how you would counterbalance using a chuck. Thanks. Tommy

[@miguelcastaneda7236]

is this anything like what i heard a bison chuck combo scroll use like 3 jaw but odd shaps and reapeat

[@machiningmoments]

+Miguel Castaneda I believe it is.

[@johnytun]

Get that revolving centre or dead centre up making sure your parallel at the Jaws then clamp it up it should centralise with the centre wound up ....you’ll know when it’s right

[@machiningmoments]

That works well.

[@sbirdranch]

Great video. I loved the indicating method. One question...why would it be preferable to use a soft shim at each jaw? Is that just for improved grip?Gotta go watch. more of your videos. Thanks for taking the time to make it.

[@machiningmoments]

+sbirdranch I use it to help marking the side of the work from the jaws, often the sides are finished after. Thanks for watching!

[@edgeeffect]

I'm still trying to learn how to use my 4-jaw... so thanks for this.

[@machiningmoments]

It takes a bit of time but once you have it figured out it is really helpful!

[@joshuasoanes1977]

was your friend named Tom Soanes

[@machiningmoments]

+Joshua Soanes Mike from New York

[@ramimehyar481]

Great work, but I think you should balance the spindle for a more accurate precision work. The off balance of the chuck will make a MICRO oval shaped hole due to the unnoticed wobbling. Great educational video however.

[@machiningmoments]

+Rami Mehyar Agreed, at higher RPMs vibration will become an issue and should be counter-balanced. Thank you.

[@you-tubejunkie2926]

How would you add counterweights?

[@machiningmoments]

Some 4-jaw chucks have t-slots in between the jaws. Insert a t-nut and stud in the slot opposite the heavy side and bolt a weight to it.

[@machinemafia2616]

What is that dial gauge called

[@machiningmoments]

Dial indicator

[@davidraul2481]

Siempre que tengan que hacer una operacion como esta en el torno, pongan platinas entre las muelas y la pieza para facilitar el centrado y evitar que se clave la muela en la plancha

[@machiningmoments]

Hola David lo siento, pero tu comentario no se tradujo muy bien al Inglés y mi español es pobre. Su comentario no es claro para mí. ¿Está sugiriendo espaciadores detrás del trabajo contra la cara del plato?

[@davidraul2481]

my english dont very god , I say: put a plate between each wheel and the workpiece

[@machiningmoments]

Hola David pena por la lenta respuesta. Creo que entiendo, usted está sugiriendo espaciadores entre la pieza y el mandril para mantener la pieza de trabajo en paralelo o plano. Si se mira de cerca, verá dos mordazas de retención se ven al revés y tienen un paso en ellos. El workpice está descansando en los pasos plato de garras de mantenimiento de la pieza de trabajo plana. Aprecio su esfuerzo para dejar un comentario. Gracias

[@waelalabrouni2669]

so precision , good job

[@machiningmoments]

+wael alabrouni Thanks!

[@garyhall867]

we call them wobble bars here in Australia.

[@machiningmoments]

I have heard that term. BTW I love your country!

[@manoloramirez6456]

How much you pay for the chuck?

[@machiningmoments]

I'm not sure what the chuck is worth, they normally come with the lathe. A Google search of Industrial tool suppliers should answer that.

[@mannyfilmsinc]

awesome video!

[@machiningmoments]

I'm glad you liked it, thanks for watching.

[@darrelllyons4010]

Why not just drill it with the drill press you center drilled it with?

[@MrShobar]

Because I don't have a drill that will bore a 1.0257 hole.

[@leeknivek]

sometimes you need the hole to be absolutely square to both faces of the piece - i had this pop up where a hole was only a couple of degrees off but resulted in 1/8" of wobble laterally (hole was drilled in anticipation of doing this anyway) so a mandrel was inserted into the drilled hole, mandrel chucked up and both faces turned square to the mandrel which made the faces square to the hole.

[@iskopiiinstalacijed.o.o.8658]

Cool video! I really wondered how this is done. This really helped. Thank you for posting

[@machiningmoments]

Glad to help.

[@sameersinha1521]

Wow, that was very enlightening

[@machiningmoments]

Thanks.

[@siri-uk8pb]

useful to teach to my students... tqqq

[@machiningmoments]

I'm glad, I teach too.

[@technicalgamez9632]

hello friend keep it up very good job u r doing stay connected

[@machiningmoments]

Thank you, covid is making it challenging. Thanks for your post.

[@AmateurRedneckWorkshop]

Great demo, thanks for the video.

[@machiningmoments]

cerberus Thank you, I appreciate you taking the time to watch it.

[@AnonYmous-iw6rh]

Good stuff. Thanks for sharing 👍👍👍

[@machiningmoments]

Glad too, thank you for watching and posting.

[@cgrobe21]

Great video

[@machiningmoments]

Thank you.

[@jenhsinlee9738]

這種方式太複雜,我們都是在四方塊要鑽孔的後方焊接一圓柱鐵,圓柱鐵用三方夾頭夾住就能產生四方塊要鑽孔的位置中心.

[@machiningmoments]

如果這適合您的需求，那就很好。

[@cjoldham7841]

This is indeed a great idea if accuracy is required.

[@machiningmoments]

It makes dialing in a four jaw a lot easier. Thanks for your note.

[@yogarajan4489]

Good idea for centering eccentric...

[@machiningmoments]

It works well.

[@carlosroberto6838]

Show de bola camarada, fantástico

[@machiningmoments]

Obrigado

[@pitman342]

Nice helpful video. Handy method to know.

[@machiningmoments]

Glad you liked it.

[@IIxxxll]

i need the clock ,mine is stucking at 0.5

[@machiningmoments]

If it is just sticky WD40 might help.

[@CHAMPIZKITCHEN]

Nice sharing💓💓💓👌✅

[@machiningmoments]

Thank you for watching.

[@maravatio67]

LOVE THAT TRICK!... Thanks for sharing your expierence!.

[@machiningmoments]

Glad to, thanks for posting!

[@alanmaughan7968]

Good work!

[@machiningmoments]

+Alan Maughan Thank you

[@SS-gq2zp]

Excellent Video!!! 2 thumbs up!

[@machiningmoments]

Thank you for watching.

[@baskark72]

Excellent Idea.

[@machiningmoments]

Thanks