Did SLA Printers win the tabletop war? (not yet)

[@KnarbMakes]

Link to the Tank STLs: knarbmakes.itch.io/battleborn-class-battle-tank www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-battleborn-class-battle-tank-200551

[@helpmepls7154]

Hey man, you got the STL Files for that baneblade? I would love to have it as I am just getting into 3d printing because my work allows us unlimited free access to their 3d printers, on the weekends only) A link would be much appreciated!

[@chasefoggin8233]

@@helpmepls7154 bump

[@chasefoggin8233]

Did you ever find it?

[@TheKurfer]

He has not replied to any requests, my guess is that GW slapped him hard for it. lol@@helpmepls7154

[@4hedgesfamily]

My son printed a Lehman Russ Proxy on our Ender 3. If he doesn't say anything, no one notices it's a proxy, even when it's right next to his official model. I've also printed several miniatures with FDM, and gotten amazing results. The keys are to use thin layers, and slow speed. It does take more time, but it's not a race. Now if I can just convince my wife we need a resin printer, too...

[@shawnmcandrew6923]

Exactly. If you have an Independent dual extruder printer you can do two at the same time if they both fit on the build plate. It's about creativity and also affordability GW is insane with their pricing.

[@nicolaspaglione]

Show her the math of how much money you can save

[@2kidsnosleep]

better to ask forgiveness than permission...an age old saying:) I bought my SLA when on sale on Amazon recently and now want a FDM unit as well.

[@dredgewalker]

I went ahead and bought a resin printer cause I know it will get a lot of use for my prototyping of smaller more detailed parts that my fdm is having a hard time doing. There are far more options right now for resin printers and the price is actually far below than the more expensive fdms. I love my fdm's but there are models I need to print with high detail.

[@DarrenMalin]

my wife reversed into my car on the drive. I shamelessly used the 'pain' to guilt her into getting a resin printer. As the song says 'love is a battle field !' lol :)

[@ignaciasd1198]

I got into 3d printing for small stuff that I didn't bother or couldn't make in wood (laptop stands, phone stands, keychains, flower pots, weather vanes for boats) then I found out about 40k and started printing tanks. I don't even play I just love the design and painting them

[@justicedemocrat9357]

Omg I don't care about your lifestory

[@stonerayven2455]

@@justicedemocrat9357 Is that the best troll you got? I got over that method 6 years ago LOL

[@justicedemocrat9357]

@@stonerayven2455 You're not worth even a shit troll job.

[@justicedemocrat9357]

@@ignaciasd1198 Go to bed, kid.

[@ernestopoisota9918]

Thats cool, i got a ender 3 and started experimenting and lately ive been dabbing into miniatures too even when i dont play but i still have problems with little prints, specially if they are detailed

[@BlueArrowII]

Both FDM and Resin serve well. Use good quality filament and a good profile such as Fatdragon and you will come out with amazing results. FDM for large scale objects and Terrain. Resin for miniatures and detailed models. Combinations of both gives amazing finishing products.

[@nanowar1192]

Can you recommended what filament work great? I looking to buy a ender 3 v2 soon.

[@BlueArrowII]

@@nanowar1192I use NEEMA EVO line from Netherlands, works great and has large variety of colors

[@amaurythewarrior]

but then you need 2... now, I'm wondering, since filament is cheaper, is the money you save by using filament enough to justify getting 2 printers?

[@BlueArrowII]

@@amaurythewarrior Sure it is.

[@oliverwithers9736]

@@amaurythewarrior the issue is filament is that much cheaper and you tend to get a little bit more out of resin.

[@3DPrintedTabletop]

This was a great video, Knarb. Great job showing the value of good orientation - and really great work with those tanks!

[@KnarbMakes]

Thanks Danny!

[@yannickg6904]

Both technologies are complementary, one picks up where the other one leaves off. I personally have no use for a resin printer and the increased resolution, but I find something to print out of PLA or TPU almost every day.

[@edstar83]

Exactly. SLA printers compliment FDM printers they don't replace them. Plus I've been 3D printing for years and I never get bored of watching an FDM printer at work.

[@yannickg6904]

@@edstar83 I don't even want to know how much time I wasted watching a printer working, lol.

[@kiltmaster7041]

Both definitely have their uses, and I don't think that either one "kills" the other. Neither are redundant or obsolete technologies. One is a knife, the other is a screwdriver. Sure, you can turn a screw with a knife, but it will be suboptimal... And it will be equally suboptimal to try to butter toast with a screwdriver. Generally - if you're aiming to make minis, I would say that a resin printer should be your first acquisition, as they are easier to use, require less tuning, have fewer variables, and make much more detailed and high-resolution prints with a very high degree of reliability. This works well for D&D miniatures, WH40k miniatures, KOW miniatures, and several other games. Additionally, most of the minis released through the likes of Loot, Myminifactory and Cults3D tend to expect that you're going to be printing them from an SLA resin printer. At a later date, if you find yourself wanting to make vehicles and terrain on a more regular basis, feel free to reach for an FDM model. I use an Ender 3, which is an entry-level, cheap FDM printer model that will give pretty decent results if you aren't worried about a few defects. I mostly use it for cosplay elements, and I can attest that it works spectacularly in that role. The larger print bed is definitely a huge plus. Additionally, I tend to find that well-printed FDM components are noticeably (but not massively) more durable than their resin counterparts. a 2mm thick, 3 inch long, 1 inch wide strip of printed resin takes significant and deliberate effort to break with your fingers. It does not yield, and will suddenly just shatter. An FDM component of the same measurements will be impossible to break with your fingers. It yields slightly before snapping cleanly. Short version - different horses for different courses... But if your goal is to make minis, I would recommend an SLA. If you want to make cosplay elements or functional components, FDM is still king.

[@djprogramer973]

I second that I use mine for practical uses. I print combs, hooks, and the quality for stuff like stands, holders, and storage Cheap, convenient, and the filament lasts for a long time for me. There's no need for me to upgrade it.

[@SteelWolf13]

@@yannickg6904 You watch because secretly your scared it will stop working and have a failed print and you might miss it. Same reason people watch Nascar. Hoping for a wreck. But not really but what if?!

[@aaronbono4688]

I started 3D printing a little over a year ago with a resin printer. I got frustrated that I could not print large terrain pieces so I just bought myself an fdm printer and it's going great. I love the fact that it prints larger objects and the material is much more resilient since the resin tends to be brittle. I have also got myself some primer that's intended to fill small gaps. I've been told by Kathy Millett that it should do a pretty good job of hiding the layer lines.

[@KnarbMakes]

Filler primer and a bit of sanding always goes a long way! Cheers!

[@southaussielad2496]

Just picked up a brand new fdm printer for less than the price of a gw baneblade, now going to print off several baneblade and hell hound minis. Been resin printing for 6 months and have some tank and terrain files ready to go. Thanks for the video mate👌

[@KnarbMakes]

Happy printing!

[@bidensniffsithuntersmokesi9413]

when I get a printer can I borrow those files from you ease friend? ☆

[@stewartdickson7184]

Where do you find the files for these - completely new to this printing stuff

[@MrBoringcabbage]

I love how I got this in my feed after the whole GW+ stuff

[@al3117]

models = resin, terrain (and some tanks) = FDM.

[@notimeforwargames3048]

Yep, it is not so much about choosing one or the other, their each have their strengths and weaknesses. Terrain and large vehicles are generally easy to print well on FDM printers, but if you are going to make anything smaller than a space marine dreadnaught, then you probably want to switch to resin.

[@XxSTOZZYxX]

disagree. it's purely cost. FDM is surely cheaper, but it's slower AND less detailed. The only reason my current terrain project isn't resin is because my bed is small. That's it. Given equal surface area, SLA not only prints with greater detail, but faster. And the cost isn't too much higher. The BEST option is framing in fdm, and attaching SLA detailed parts. Even then, you're not saving much as a hobbyist. talking change on the dollar for hours of time.

[@CampaignTerrain]

Great tip, about the orientation. Still not convinced to buy one, but included magnet bed and auto-leveling do make this one tempting. Nice vid, Knarb

[@KnarbMakes]

Right on!

[@TremereTT]

@@KnarbMakes I can't decide if I should buy a cheap Anycubic or a cheap FLSUN. It's horrible.

[@M.C.Turnt69]

0:30 I can clearly see layer lines....unless those particular lines were on purpose?

[@KnarbMakes]

Those arent layer lines, since the armor panel printed parallel to the build plate. What you're seeing is a bit of messy ironing from the hot end as it smoothed the surface on top.

[@M.C.Turnt69]

@@KnarbMakes AHhh ok! That makes sense.

[@monham5041]

I bought the Anycubic Vyper a few months ago and have been printing buildings and terrain pieces with it. I love it. What a great printer!

[@PortocaliusMaximus]

"FDM sucks" - said the guy who only prints in the cheapest PLA with the default """super fine"""" cura profile i've printed multiple vehicles on an ender 3 with Silk PLA and well tuned settings and they look about as well as resin prints hell, i've had resin tank parts warp during washing and curing and not fit together recently i tried printing some lightning claws and they look a bit dirty and blobby, but i'm convinced they'd look fine with a 0.3mm nozzle

[@euansmith3699]

"... dirty and blobby..."; paint them glossy red, and they become GORECLAWS, drenched in the viscera of your foes.

[@KnarbMakes]

Speaking of slicers, take a look at prusa slicer, it's free and can support many printers. The settings and features outshine cura in my opinion.

[@jackcleveland1175]

Excellent review. Thank you!

[@Boylei]

Super great video, man. Lots of good information here!

[@KnarbMakes]

Thanks Boylei. Can't wait for your next space western video! Cheers!

[@riffbw]

It's really about the print size for me. I've got an Ender 5 Pro with a few upgrades and the quality is amazing. You need regular maintenance and a slower print speed, but you can really hide the layer lines if you take the time to dial in your printer, slow it down, and orient things the best way (as you mentioned). The only thing an FDM printer cannot do is the incredibly small pieces like legs on miniatures. The precision just isn't there.

[@svengro5019]

Each tool has its own area where it can shine. Personally I prefer over FDM over SLA. Once you got it tuned in it doesn't fail much and easy to setup parts for printing and requires much less work.I never understood the problem people have with bed leveling. I rarely level the bed once it is initially don and just adjust it by eyesight judging on the outcome of the first layer. On the other hand SLA is quiet and needs less space for the printer itself. It is faster than FDM too. I never understood why people want to print whole terrain pieces in one go and then have to deal with layer lines.

[@KnarbMakes]

Well said. I'm having fun finding good uses for each one and mixing up projects across both.

[@barrag3463]

I honestly don't even care about layer lines; as for leveling, from experience it is usually because people will remove stuff while the print surface is still attached to the print bed. The result is the bed being jolted a bit out of level, but a bit out of level is all it takes. By taking the build tak or glass plate of metal plate off to remove the print you can go a while before needing to relevel.

[@bignickenergy3525]

I'm very much on the fdm for terrain, sla for models side.

[@leichtmeister]

Can you do a video about the orientation part? That would be great =)

[@sebastiancastro5269]

How can I print the baneblade ?

[@death2all79zx]

I'd like to see how the fdm printer Prints 6 mm terrain and miniatures.

[@gunsmoke132]

I'd like to see how a resin printer prints something even remotely durable.

[@rykerhasyounow]

@@gunsmoke132 Try ABS Like resin. There are quite a few variants of similarly more durable resins that are less brittle.

[@ArchSpawn]

@@gunsmoke132 durability is determined by what resin u use, if you use a softer resin the model can bend more if you use a harder resin when it cures it becomes more brittle. all resins have diff cure times there is an excel floating around the web that gives the best cure times based off the brand and color of the resin. gl

[@noway8233]

@@gunsmoke132 GOOD ANWSER, AND THTS MY POINT

[@andrewdrauth]

Your chassis design is so dope.

[@KnarbMakes]

Thanks Andrew

[@sethjk8871]

I also have a anycubic fdm printer but I've struggled with the settings for years. Your prints look fantastic by comparison!

[@JClemente1980]

you forgot the main evolution: non planar 3d printing... can be used on any 3d printer, but if you go to 5d...

[@ge2719]

yeah, i was just thinking priting a eldar tank would turn out pretty bad with all the shallow curves turning out like tiny steps. put printing those curves smooth should produce a much better result/

[@vandenburg123]

I appreciate the orientation advice, but the bane of my experiences with fdm has been stringing. Got a resin printer before fdm and just found the user experience to be a lot smoother. But you nailed the role fdm plays in table top gaming, though I'd still print tanks on my resin printer.

[@KnarbMakes]

For sure. I've had a lot of frustration with FDM printers in the past. It takes a bit of learning to figure out the failure modes. I still get some stringing, but I can mostly clean up the prints with a lighter and some light sanding.

[@jasonjulian1]

Turn your nozzle temp down and enable combing mod for All within the slicer.

[@Dustin030888]

That's why they make stringing tests so you can dial in your settings to avoid stringing. Cura slicer has a built in extension that allows for this and works well. They also have a temperature test. You can use both on each filament you use to dial in the settings. It isn't difficult.

[@gustavrsh]

Lower the temp, increase cooling and dry your filament (if not using PLA)

[@DeusMachina71]

I agree and really resin Printing is not much more expensive anymore perhaps 25-30% but the results are much better in my opinion plus I find resin Printing less of a hassle these days wth large format mono 4k printers and dedicated wash cure machines. FDM may not be exactly completely obsolete but it's just about there.. two years tops when medium format 8k printers price comes down. The industry is evolving quickly

[@brianbowles4385]

actually, it's the opposite. I have an Anycubic I3 Mega, Tronxy x5sa pro, and an Anycubic Photon S. The Photon is the one gathering dust. I can print detailed items on it that are too small to print on the FDM's, but I seldon print quite that small. I like the Photon, but it;s the prep and cleanup where it looses out to the FDM's. I can print most things on an FDM, it's easy to slice, supports are simple and intuative. Clean up is also very easy. With the Photon, I find slicing very tedious. I have to make sure every island is supported. When a print fails not only is it ruined, but I have to clean up everything to make sure I remove any parts that got left on the FEP. For most of my print, I would rather deal with the layer lines, stringing and so on, rather than deal with the mess and cleanup of the SLA. Maybe I'm just lazy.

[@DisgruntledPigumon]

*loses But yeah, I love resin printing…. Except for the resin…. It gets everywhere and it’s toxic.

[@Flamethrower1942]

I know nothing at all about 3D printing, but those look ace I wouldn't be able to tell the difference.

[@johnschweiger1079]

Unless you’d actually tell me I wouldn’t of been able to tell myself

[@scratchinjack608]

Yep. Orientation of the parts on the build plate is important. And doing your own CAD work...inevitable if you really want good results. I do the same as you mentioned in this video: mainly FDM and resin for the tiny greeblies. The new giant resin printers kind'a scare me! I have also recently jumped into working with Fusion 360 and wondering why I haven't done it sooner. Good content and a great channel! Thank you!

[@gatling216]

My first printer was an Anycubic Predator. Lots of potential with a bunch of quality of life features that you have to install yourself on other printers, but it went out of production without warning and parts dried up quickly. Seeing as how it had a few parts that just liked to break, I eventually just had to give up on it.

[@tando6266]

FDM is about $0.10 on the dollar of sla once its all said done with detail that is fine for vehicles and terrain. It can do figure but the SLA wins there. I routinely print 15mm tanks without issue or loss of detail in FDM, but can do infantry

[@raremusic69]

1:48 My first model. This model don't need supports and I put all supports that's the software can give me XD.

[@10urion]

Dang the orientation trick is genius! I do not have a printer but this seems like a super obvious solution that I would have easily missed if I had one! Love how your army is coming along!

[@KnarbMakes]

I've been trying to re-slice and re-orient other models I find as well. I see a side that would look a ton better printed flat, I just slice it off and place it on the bed and glue it on later. Cheers!

[@croggyjones7899]

@@KnarbMakes my top surface is always trash though. how do you improve this?

[@KnarbMakes]

@@croggyjones7899 you can turn on ironing to improve it. Some slicers let you do this. I use prusa slicer for it

[@joshelguapo5563]

Well im definitely not going to have a bunch of dangerous fumes around and have to cure my prints so no thank you too the resin printer

[@imuz8644]

Very clean! Not sure if you know, but if you enable "Ironing" you'll get a very smooth top layer as well. It helps eliminate the crosshatching on the top layer.

[@slimjim7411]

Printing hulls in FDM and then all the extra's in resin is a neat idea. For me my FDM printer is just for bases, and terrain plus other odd tools and gadgets for around the house. At $12 for a roll of PLA+ and vase mode for most terrain pieces it goes a long way. You can print a whole tournaments worth of terrain for the price of 1 really nice table with plastic terrain.

[@Plastic_Chamber]

I have both a resin and FDM printer, and the key is to play to their strengths. I’m a model maker, so being able to print in polystyrene on the FDM is a huge plus. Polystyrene prints beautifully, is light weight and strong, and sands easily. It bonds well using Tamiya model cement, so I can easily add kit part details. I typically only use the resin printer when I need highly detailed parts. These usually will be super glued to a larger piece that was built up on the FDM.

[@uriance88]

Videos like these are great - because the post-process requirements for SLA mean that there is nowhere to put it in house, leaving FDM as the only future choice (but airbrush first) for hobbying - and vehicles and terrain would be the primary print subject anyway (and realistically, the printer companies will be working hard to get better FDM quality at lower prices)

[@KnarbMakes]

Yeah, I've had to devote a corner of my workshop and set up a fume hood for my SLA printer. Thanks for watching!

[@andraslibal]

Printing terrain for Bolt Action is what inspires me and larger more sturdy 3D prints for my robotics class ... I only have a resin printer and I do see your point about printing larger volume things.

[@aberodriguez4149]

Great advise and technique, very new to FDM printing and am always looking for ways to make my prints look as resin printed as possible.

[@DarkMatterWorkshop]

What a time to be alive, great job mate 👌

[@wckdtrb]

I fight with my Ender3 almost daily to try to get it printing again after changing the springs... but I do love it for terrain.

[@KnarbMakes]

Yeah, the constant maintenance can get tedious when you just want something printed. It's always a lot simpler to fix than I hype it up to be though, hah.

[@calebbuswell]

BL Touch is the best money you will spend for an Ender3. Also, I am sure you know, but make sure all the cams on the axis wheels are tightened correctly to remove the slop.

[@josray2557]

that is madness how good those look

[@nathan8349]

I wish I knew about this printer before I got the Flash forge Adventure 3. It's a good printer, but it's more expensive and has a smaller bed size

[@AndurzTalksHobbies]

This is great! I've been thinking about 3d printers for ages now and had basically decided if I ever get one it's going to be resin... but now it looks like i need both :P So many project ideas. Also great to see another Canadian on here! fantastic work man.

[@KnarbMakes]

They both have their uses, yeah. Hope this helps you decide better, or just get both!

[@robahouston]

I have a resin printer and now I want an fdm for larger pieces that don't have a ton of little detail. They both have their place until resin comes down in price. If that ever happens there may be a case for FDM not being the best option but I imagine filament would just go down as well making the whole thing a moot point. Either way they both seem cool.

[@SteveFamine]

Baneblade flex Looks great! You're getting really good at printing!

[@KnarbMakes]

Haha, I need to find a good name for it now.

[@ScratchBashing]

Can I come over and print some stuff?

[@KnarbMakes]

Yeah anytime. Uhh... what kind of stuff we talking though?

[@ScratchBashing]

@@KnarbMakes yessssss! Oh, just huge, very big stuff!

[@lordfordification]

I came for the title but I stayed for this man's art

[@SirFruit2000]

my fdm printer has been gathering dust only because it's one of the old Printrbot Simple Maker's Kit Model 1405 and the plywood is beyond warped so there's no using it for any prints other than simple things

[@meldepinda]

Actually I'm still on a FDM printer and just recently started printing mini's (now reading into how to paint them for DnD). I will be looking for a resin printer to print the miniatures later on when im more proficient in painting. And use the FDM printer for terrain/tiles

[@ArmsandArmor]

ooo nice! i just purchased a vyper. ill have to look at your settings in prusa, as im not impressed by cura so far. and maybe go after the filament you are using. i have a photon s as well, but actually prefer the vyper for larger stuff (for obvious reasons). thanks for the helpful video!

[@KnarbMakes]

Just used stock settings, to get good prints just make sure you tighten all belts and gantries, slow the speed slightly and don't use damp filament.

[@michaelinOZ]

Great! Buuuut, where would I get the other tank designs?

[@KnarbMakes]

Either check the 3dprintedwarhammer subreddit, or cults3d.com Cheers!

[@swipekonme]

the coolest calmest tuber around!!!

[@TheOrigin79]

Funny - had the Anycubic Mono (SLA) first, now i bought the Anycubic Vyper because of the print size for part which dont need such details. They complement each other and i mix up my models with both printers. SLA for detailed stuff, FDM for large stuff.

[@StephenMichaelElliott]

Your leman Russ that you display in the vid look great. When I look at the files for sale, they look like a different tank? Looking for a leman Russ unless I’m mixing things up. Thank you.

[@BitcoinIsGoingToZero]

Fdm for engineering parts and rapid iteration.

[@Ferretino]

Orientation on some printers with larger (0.3mm) nozzles is actually in reverse. Most models I print in 0.1\0.05mm I need to them upwards just to get line width less visible on smaller details.

[@superchroma]

I've seen extremely impressive results with people taking steps to compensate for layer lines and ghosting. TeachingTech just released a video about it. Plus, I see the appeal of a no hassle print that you don't have to wash and clean and cure after.

[@TomesTheAmazing]

I'm using FDM for everything cause the only place I have for it is my bedroom so working with liquid resin and the smell is not something I wanna deal with. The Fatdragon mini and terrain profiles work great(I have an Ender 3) and I try to use support free files as often as I can. And for anyone concerned about plastic fumes I only print with all windows open and when I'm not sleeping or sitting in the room.

[@NefariousElasticity]

I think the real potential of both formats aren't able to be fully realized until you have both available to you at the same time. My DIY projects have taken a crazy turn since I got a resin printer to pair with my Ender 3.

[@KnarbMakes]

Well said. Ive noticed a similar trend for my crafts as well.

[@gabhagael6983]

I want to use them to cast in metal with sand moulds, so these machines have opened up an entire new avenue for examination. Resin are *too* detailed for what I need tbh, and I'm just glad to have this option

[@pirobot668beta]

Apartment dwellers and resin printing. Spilled resin is bad enough, but when the damage is someone else's property, things get interesting. OK, you are going to have new carpet installed, but how to convince the Landlord that the resin soaked floor-slab doesn't need work, too? You'd be in a tight spot; Landlord is required to notify the next residents of hazmat spill, they can show loss of income to a Judge. If you gonna resin-print, do it in the kitchen sink!

[@jiml.9026]

Resin printing is cool....I have printed some amazing things....but I will ALWAYS print on my FDM printers....they are workhorses and cheap and I can print at .03-.05 not on my CR-10's after my upgrades.....Love them.

[@smoketinytom]

Dunno if you’re still watching, but have you any Space Marine designs in the works?

[@KnarbMakes]

Not anytime soon. Not really a faction that interest me much.

[@smoketinytom]

@@KnarbMakes That’s coolio. I’m wondering if the turret mounts on top are the same as a razorback/Predator/Land Raider turret bases?So I can bolster my IG PDF with different tanks chassis.

[@KnarbMakes]

@@smoketinytom should be easy to modify if not or use a magnet. The mount is compatible with the leman russ kits I have if that helps

[@amaurythewarrior]

I want to start with 3D printing, but I'm still not sure about that. Initially, I wanted to make detail pieces for "environments" the kind of things I can't really make another way, especially when it has to be replicated numerous times (sci-fi bits). Then I saw you could get good results on minis as well with resin... but resin is more expensive and has a lot more constraints...

[@deadmilkman7777]

They both have amazing uses If you have room for both get both

[@weaselton]

Well now I am going to try that alternate orientation thing you mentioned.

[@sagichnicht6748]

An advantage maybe not so relevant for table top is the ability to mix materials. Double extruder FDM printers are nowadays very affordable and there you can for example either print with soluble support or mix PLA or PETG with flexible materials like TPU, having flexible hinges etc printed in place. There are also more engineering materials available. While resins have upped the game I am still not so convinced about their long time performance, compared to for example a PC-ABS filament. And then there are full multicolour options available from Prusa the MMU2s (5 filaments) and the newest Mosaic Palette (8 filaments), where you can print in up to 5 or 8 colours, respectively (even more if you change filament in between manually). But those are extremely wasteful and, harder to dial in and very slow the more detailed and the more colours you want to print.

[@House-Atreides]

Knarb! You and I are seemingly working on the exact same projects... 1) Dune minis 2) illuminated 40k terrain 3) FDM vehicles. I’m new to 3d printing and your tip on orientation is perfect! Im using a CR-10 V3.

[@KnarbMakes]

Haha that's awesome! Bound to happen with someone at this rate.

[@House-Atreides]

Please check out Submersible LED pool light on Amazon. They have a controller and are very robust for multi colored lights. Little pucks are easily tucked under gantries With magnets

[@KnarbMakes]

@@House-Atreides will do! Thanks

[@therealdadoom7509]

I don't have anything against fdm, but mine has been relegated to basic shapes, terrain and bases which it does fine, esp with the occasional bit of resin "wash" and cure to hide lines. Detail wise there is no comparison though, fdm I'm struggling for .2 on detail with a large amount of mechanical tinkering and part replacement, resin I'm printing at .035 with a simple dial in, just for cost efficiency i do try to make use of both, but considering how long fdm has been a thing vs sla i dont expect it to ever compete for actual minis, but will hold its value for terrain and large projects for a while.

[@tungstentoothpick6788]

And just like that he designed a tank :D. Mad genius this man.

[@kiltmaster7041]

Designing a tank isn't particularly difficult. With about an afternoon's tutelage, you could probably make a decent looking tank in about an afternoon. They're basically just a box. The skill is in making it look cool. :)

[@Gabiethemighty]

So for character models (Action figures/anime figures, etc...) is Resin the only way to go to get perfect results?

[@KnarbMakes]

Likely going to get the best results that way, but a well calibrated FDM printer can do pretty good detail depending on model.

[@Gabiethemighty]

@@KnarbMakes damn, it's sad because resin is expensive, almost double the price of fdm.

[@amaurythewarrior]

I'd really be curious to see a close up of the top layers. this is actually the lines that bother me the most on my prints

[@KnarbMakes]

Someone mentioned this in a different comment, have you tried Ironing? It's a setting that tries to flatten the top layer as much as possible.

[@amaurythewarrior]

@@KnarbMakes not yet, but I've read about it and seen videos. but it seems most people are happy with their top layer, and I'm wondering if I'm doing anything wrong, or having too high expectations.

[@marcush4741]

I got my FDM printer because I love lost wax casting, but I am NOT good at sculpting wax. My FDM printer runs wax filament for these projects... and I can do some parts manufacturing with reinforced nylon. Those are the only two things I use it for. So while SLA has better precision... that precision just doesnt fit the materials I want to use.

[@boviac]

Still using my Creality CR6-SE, but for minis I am seriously looking at a Low cost but now 4k resin SLA.

[@GreenBlueWalkthrough]

I've always prefered FDM because of its ease of use and not needing extra precautions to use.

[@euansmith3699]

That's really impressive printing!

[@KnarbMakes]

Thanks Euan!

[@samsowden]

Is it a war? They're different tools with different uses surely?

[@KnarbMakes]

Haha, just a little artistic license for the title. Agreed, they each have their use.

[@NatesMiniatures]

Great vid mate, I have the ender 5 plus and the ender 3 and yeah I admit they have been sitting there gathering some dust. Time to get them working again I think.

[@TheWarmotor]

You can get rid of layer lines in the oven or an acetone bath

[@battano]

I fly fpv and use my printer mainly for TPU or carbon composite filaments and from time to time I print out big ass flower pots out of ABS. Not sure how much of a help an SLA printer would be over my sovol sv03 with its big build size and filament choices.

[@erykrejner2528]

Since their beginings in 2012 I knew I should wait a decade to afford one that will not only be cheaper but also the quality will be better. The time wil soon come.

[@pyromanci2736]

In mini's yes, but tha'ts cause SLS is tuned for smaller and finer worker. Where FDM is better suited for larger items.

[@gunsmoke132]

I honestly have both. I'm more of a "builder" I rarely make miniatures or trinkets so my fdm is my workhorse, but I do like being able to print finer parts that don't have to be as strong. Or if I need something for reference before I order a metal part.

[@ps3customgamer]

My fdm prints SLA quality with a stock nozzle just turning down the layer height is enough. I can go higher with a smaller nozzle but it’s easier having a versatile setup

[@CitanulsPumpkin]

The more I look into the differences between FDM and Resin printers, the more I'm convinced I'm never going to buy a resin printer. The downsides of FDM all look like surface imperfections that go away if you figure out the right settings. Even if a print goes wrong a little bit of filing, sanding, and the right paint job can turn the most screwed up print into a terrain piece. Too many artifacts on a vehicle mini? Cut it in half and paint it so the imperfections look like rust or mold/moss and you have a great set piece for a battlefield map/diorama. Too many cracks, lines, and sharp angles in a character mini or a figurine/bust? Paint it bronze or sandstone colored, remove the base, and it's a broken statue in an ancient ruin. And what are the problems with resin? Resin costs too much. Alchohol baths, gloves, and masks nickle and dime you over time. Failed prints too often result in a lump of goo that can't be repurposed or salvaged. Toxic fumes. Size limits. Extra steps in an already time consuming process. I don't think resin is the solution for any of my needs.

[@KnarbMakes]

Well written! Resin printers are super magical to me, as there is almost no visible artifacts from the layers with the naked eye. Maybe the post processing will be sorted out in the coming years.

[@jonjonsson6323]

Fdm has a much broader ise but it all comes down to what one need, however a fdm can still print figurines that match a cheaper resin printer, but it require a lot of calibration and knowledge , resin is easier for quick good surfaces on small items but that is to simplify the thing that you still need to know what you do as resin requires drainage holes etc . For a new buyer, if the figures are larger than 2.5 cm than you can basically go for an fdm. It will have difficulties with reaching level of detail but any proper fdm has a resolition of 0.1 mm. Since layer height is normally about 0.3 mm on a .4 mm nozzle, you can theoretically iron it but most resolutions will land somewhere 0.4 + mm due to inconsistencies in the printer , and may be better depending on how much it is trimmed. That said , there is a steep learning curve on resin, and you have to replace the screens at any poimt, smell and curing.. so if you really dont need to print more than ocassionally i would go fdm, and use a primt service for resin. The cost of a resin printer is cheaper than three resin bottles now so it is not a big deal in investment but service parts is way more than the printer itself.

[@HacksawsHobbyBunker]

I've had an Ender 3 Pro for about a year, and other than having to relevel it every few months, it's been a solid machine. That relevelling though...its enough to make me intrigued by the Vyper if that self-levelling feature works and continues to work over time. The orientation of the parts is a fantastic idea, if you can do it produces a very smooth finish. I have become adept at post-processing for those prints that cant be done that way....primer/filler, Mod Podge, wood putty, sanding...they are all close friends now ;-) Those tanks are awesome btw. Cheers!

[@KnarbMakes]

Yep, some sanding and filler goes a long way! Sometimes layer lines can't be avoided.

[@apinakapinastorba]

Where I can find the guns for this tank kit? :) The kit comes with only cannon mount but no barrel

[@KnarbMakes]

Search for sponson guns and leman russ cannons on cults 3d

[@apinakapinastorba]

Tank you ;D Thanks for the kit, it looks nice! Currently printing last parts of it. Other parts have been awesome so far.

[@aaronbono4688]

So exactly what mods did you do on this printer and what settings did you use to get great results? I was kind of hoping you would discuss that here.

[@KnarbMakes]

Zero mods. Stock profile

[@SkarnDeBrax]

I have one, and, she's starting to taking dust because I started to be to lazy to reconfigure everything and find the correct setting, I have issue with it since the first day... And never find the perfection, but, she was able ton print good stuff... but lately new issue started and cut all my motivation....

[@pulse8397]

How do you know what pieces you need to print is there something u look at or what? I’m looking into getting one

[@WiNNiep00h]

since i have an sla i never used my fdm again^^ (its about 3 weeks) but i will print some small bases for my figures and some usefull stuff for boardgames like cardholders. i also ordered the vyper. although i am not sure if that was clever...i have an i3 mega and its working fine. i tried to sell it but nobody wants to buy it.

[@scottturner3831]

Where is the Baneblade proxy?

[@BellyUpFishGarage]

Nice video! What is that gunship at 0:30? Also, consider taking those zip ties off your Bowden tube and decouple it from your wiring. Might save a failed print down the road.

[@LordVA1]

I see it in two ways. FDM can achieve fine details but is better for medium to large scale builds, hence why many higher end FDM have very large build volumes. SLA on the other hand is great for Small to medium builds of high resolution, but small build volumes in general. NOW this rule isn't always true there are outliers and variables of the two, including materials, production of specific parts and their own requirements to manufacture.. etc etc. For model making in general I use FDM for large pieces, landscape, etc. SLA for small fine details, like single figures, people, miniature weapons, etc.

[@KnarbMakes]

Yeah I've been leaning towards that rule of thumb as well. The crazy detail from sla printers is reserved for when its actually necessary

[@drxym]

SLA is absolutely the way to go for anyone at home printing high detail figures, small scenery and jewellry (for casting). I think for almost every other purpose FDM is still the winner - it's cheaper, the build volumes are higher, there is less mess, stink and chemicals to worry about.

[@siddiaz1623]

I still use my Prusa MkI3 still works like magic for me and still make me excited to print something everyday

[@KnarbMakes]

Glad to hear it! Happy printing!

[@cyber649]

I got a MK3s+ and I love that printer. Just an awesome work horse, it just works. Worth the money for a quality printer. My Ender Max is collecting dust. I would love another MKs3+ for no reason.

[@power_SERG]

Hmm. This is tempting... But how does it make bits for smaller miniatures? Like shields for Space Marine, or even smaller like shoulder pads and helmets?