Digital Model Railroading 101 - Lesson 2: Wiring in DCC Lights and Number Boards Using LEDs and SMDs

[@danconlin3456]

Like your easy going instructions. Just enough info.

[@DoctorHobby]

Thanks tons... I'm trying to walk the line between concise and going on way too long. I hate taking an hour to explain a 15 minute topic. Take care and happy model railroading!

[@larrydee8859]

Great informative videos, on modifying vintage HO motive equipment! (I had just finished modifying my ancient Proto 1000 subway sets over to DCC, with bidirectional lighting. Very satisfying results). As always; Great work Doctor Hobby!

[@DoctorHobby]

Thank you so much for the kind words! That’s a really neat set that you’ve got there and I’d love to find one someday-best wishes for you and your model railroading!

[@larrydee8859]

@@DoctorHobby Yes; I love to model the NYC subway, both underground, and The old Manhattan,and Bronx, Elevated lines. I had just finished modifying 20 Walther's Proto 1000 NYC 4 car R-17, and R-21, subway sets, (circa 1950s). The models were produced in the early 2000s, with different color schemes. (The 1969-80s, Silver/Blue MTA looking the best). The Maroon looked ok, but the green was to light. I'm going to attempt to carefully darken then, either with subway grime, or darken the paint somewhat. The conversions involved, for each 4 car set; The nice motor unit converted to DCC, with both motor unit and last trailer, (also with a DCC decoder installed), with Bi directional, red/white headlights/taillights. I also installed a couple of sound units, with compressor/ traction motors, into some end cars. This is an ongoing sound experiment, with different sound decoders, and downloadable sounds. I also purchased a lot of the newer, higher quality MTH Subway sets. However.... The Proto1000 motor car, blends much better with the rest of the train, compared to the MTH motor car that has its windows blocked with white plastic, (and no interior lighting for the MTH motor car). Thanks again Doctor Hobby.

[@TolgaEastCoast]

Great tutorial. So essentially that +/- port on the board is also a node for the wires heading off in parallel. Was thinking of using a common wire to feed to and frim a buddy but maybe I just do it for the tiny U+ port.

[@DoctorHobby]

Howdy! I’m not 100 percent sure what you’re asking, but the Vcc is common and you can use it to power any negative port. You can solder all the positives into one port if you want to.

[@epacm50]

Awesome Video!!! Most of my DCC locomotives contain an ESU Loksound Select, V4, or V5. I had to pass up a recent preorder on a Scaletrains ES44AC. I had to shift my priorities elsewhere. I am also located in the Columbus, Ohio area.

[@DoctorHobby]

Oh, nice to meet you and that you for the kind words! I use LokSound the majority of the time, but these basic EMD locomotives are good candidates to save some money with these Econami decoders. Do you belong to that club over in Worthington?

[@epacm50]

Nope! However, that is the most attractive HO scale layout in Central Ohio.

[@DoctorHobby]

I’m not too far off Lancaster-I’ll have to head down there too! Thanks for letting me know!

[@TrainCollector77]

What brand is the loco please?

[@DoctorHobby]

It’s a Stewart