Digital Photography 1 on 1: Episode 27: Metering Part 3: Using a light meter

[@andrewade7017]

13 years later Mark and this is still a very useful video!!!! THANK YOU!!!!!

[@thedude130]

Snagged this bad boy for only $100 like-new barely used. Absolutely stoked to add this to my analogue photography arsenal.

[@124moviesiwatch]

You're welcome. I'm glad I could help you. I use the Sekonic L-358 as well and have been pleased with it for several years. The Sekonic website has tutorials by Mark and other helpful professionals that explain the functions of the meter and also show creative lighting set-ups. Best wishes!

[@marshalltravis3217]

Because of this metering method,, I FINALLY have white snow!! Thank you so much.

[@logsil2012]

I finally ordered the Sekonic L-358 Light Meter. I am so excited to get it because I have just been trying to get by without using one but having one and using it is so much easier.

[@FaustoSicha]

you are the very best in what you do. Thank you so much for all your help. Please tell Adorama that there are so many people out here that really appreciate your help and look forward in learning more from you guys. Thanks again. Tino

[@124moviesiwatch]

No, the meter in your camera measures the light that is reflected off of the subject. The hand held light meter is used mainly to measure the light that falls upon the subject which is called an incident light reading.

[@photo_n_art]

Correct and incident light metering should be done by facing the meter to the light source NOT camera. Most digital photographers are doing it wrong... Looks like light metering is a lost craft in the digital age.

[@2011SuperFrank]

One of the great videos from Adorama TV.

[@falsaai]

It's much better than the 2nd episode. I loved it, thanks Mark.

[@hcoll]

Cutest microphone evar. Awesome video guys.

[@124moviesiwatch]

If you are talking about him using the hand held meter outside, he is taking an ambient light reading, and it is not the same as a reflected light reading. Incident light readings measure the light that falls upon the subject and this why the lumisphere is placed in the subjects position and facing the camera. The lumisphere (extended) mimics the 3D hemisphere of a human face which adds to it usefulness in portraiture. There is much more to metering than can be covered in one short video.

[@RMO6701]

Thanks, you explained that very well. I actually went out and purchased the same meter and it works really well. thanks again.

[@yocz2007]

Great video as usual Mark Thanks!

[@nengtoy94]

Mark you're the best thanks for sharing your knowledge to us, god bless you!!!

[@hynee]

@dingo27mobile In ambient light the camera's meter can get fooled by too bright or too dark backgrounds. In the video the model was in the shade but the background was bright, so the camera could have underexposed. It would also change for different skin tones, leading to overexposed eyes or underexposed dark hair. The light meter takes away a lot of fiddling, it will put an 18% gray card right in the middle of the exposure range, no matter what the background.

[@ErikJensenDetroit]

So, just to be absolutely clear, if I'm in the studio and I want to shoot at f1.8 but my meter is reading say f8, I need to reduce the power of my strobes until the meter reads f1.8, right?

[@RealMenDontBitch]

I prefer Gossen light meters, so many folks are saying there are many problems with the Sekonic 358, and that they stop calibrating.

[@HeyUncleTuck]

Yes it does work with the Flex TT5. Pocket Wizard has a few vids showing how to set them up here on KZbin.

[@detran1241]

why my sekonic L-358 ( use RT-32N ) don't have Wireless flash radio triggering mode ?

[@mirtamendez9956]

It helped me a lot to remember how to use my light meter .Thankyou. Good video

[@djp_video]

No, he's right to tell you to point it at the camera. If you point it at your light source the lumisphere might not be picking up other lighting that may be illuminating your subject (such as reflections or secondary light source). By pointing at the camera you can be sure that all light sources are included in the measurement. If you point at a light source you're pretty much only including light from that one source, when there are very likely to be other sources of light in a scene.

[@RandellJohn]

Why would there be other light sources in the scene? He's using a single light his aperture ISO and shutter speed will be set to eliminate all ambient light sources in a studio environment. Personally I always measure back to the light source when I shoot digital. I want to expose for highlights (i.e) any specularity from the modifier. I don't want to be spending hours in PS patching any blown highlights on the skin, which can happen with very fair skin or if the skin is oily. (When I shoot film I measure back to the camera or expose for the shadows).

[@altexlan415]

many people think the old way, like using low ISO yield better picture. that is not true for today digital camera. Incident light meter are basic old technology. Nikon is using 3D color matrix multi metering. which take color in to account for exposure. So which you think is better? hand held metering is a yes for studio flash photography. for out door photography the light is always changing by moving cloud. so if you use handheld meter in out door. by the time you make adjustment and snap, scene brightness have change. worst still is those old style dial type. the above L358 earn many criticism. like it is hard to read on bright light . All this meter is for multi flash, where you can read each individual flash out put. further more there are K factor on each light meter manufacturer. it is no longer the 18% gray despite what you might heard. Nikon,Canon and Sekonic is said to have the same K factor. Minolta may differ.

[@124moviesiwatch]

A hand held meter would not help you when using your flash units in TTL mode. Remember that the TTL system uses a pre-flash to measure distance and light intensity (among other things) to make it's calcutations before sending out it's flash to make the exposure. This pre-flash would trick the hand held meter. You can successfully use hand held light meters to measure your speedlights in manual flash mode!

[@jidoe]

Do all light meters let you dial in your aperature and ISO, then you take a reading and are given the correct shutter speed? I'm in the market for one and would like to be able to have this feature.

[@reneslegers595]

Yes indeed very clear explanation Thanks

[@gotopcpanik]

I got a Sekonic L-308S. I can't switch from shutter-prioity (T inside the square) to Aperture priority. Can't move the square to the F. I can only set ISO and shutterspeed . What am I doing wrong?

[@RandellJohn]

You aren't doing anything wrong pcpanik. The 308 only allows you to set your exposure by entering ISO and Shutter Speed.

[@gotopcpanik]

Thanks. I got it in the meanwhile :-)

[@bhagyasenanayake6975]

great vedio...thanx Mark

[@jasonsong86]

I think you are right. that is reflective metering. you camera does incident metering.

[@MattSteez]

I love when she flips her hair.

[@RMO6701]

Can someone answer this question for me.... I noticed that Mark pointed the light meter towards the camera, but wouldn't that be considered reflective metering.? ( and you can do that with your camera's meter) if so, as supposed to incident metering where you meter from the exact light source...which would be the sun right? . Im a bit confused :-[]

[@gyulab1]

Great video, thanks. How can i release the speed lights (Nikon sb-700) with light meter if the the speed light don't have pc connection?

[@tonyzecchinelli]

From the time of films pics the metering with digital photos for me it is useless I just make a pics and if it is too dark or too clear I correct the iris or time - I really never use it - may be you are not right with be .I think with the digital pics most important is not only the right exposure but the right white balance .

[@lewisfilms]

When I click the measure button in Aperture priority mode, i get a reading for shutter but I also this other (small) number to right of my aperture. What is that small (subscript?) number? It is usually 1, 2 or 3.

[@rotaryp]

thank you.

[@photobyjewell1987]

HELLO I HAVE A QUESTION ABOUT SETTING UP MY SEKONIC L-358 LIGHT METER TO MY NIKON D80 I WAS WONDERING WHICH STEP IS BEST FOR ME WHEN I HAVE A NIKON D80 SLR CAMERA

[@mallen2100]

Good Video!

[@manojdewan5583]

nice explanatin thank you

[@kebakue]

@ashkibala1 Didn't know that way. Thought it was an independent video.

[@LSULION]

Awesome...Mahalo

[@FrozenFilmsByParis]

if your iso is set to 640 on your camera would you have to set the same iso on your Light meter?

[@itechflagstaff]

YES

[@p4ko71]

i do have a pocketwizard mini t1 and flex tt5, my question is do i need a light meter?

[@fkrtna]

Does the flash power make a different readings?

[@marcomark8]

Do you ever use the Ansel Adams zone system in your photography?

[@wing911]

Pretty !!!!!!

[@eliserio86]

great video! i had to look at it a few times though erica is very distracting lol. stunningly beautiful!

[@OZTrini]

now think of what the word incident means- an event occurring.vlight travels from the source (lets say the sun) to the subject, this happens in an in(s)tant... its an in(C)dent occurring. the light meter is reading the INSTANT/INCIDENT that the light is reaching your subject (as opposed to the reflected) when it is facing the source/camera. hope this helped.

[@nassermahmoad3972]

Allan V. Crane

[@photo_n_art]

Number one mistake he did... pointing the meter at the camera. Unfortunately most people do this... the meter should be pointed at the light source, otherwise you will get slightly over exposed highlights. The meter should meter the light and not what the camera see. Simple and logic.

[@michaelwtapp]

How do I use a light meter to determine the power of a strobe? Ex: I set the aperture, iso and shutter for the ambient and I need to figure out the intensity of my speedlite.

[@RandellJohn]

You'll need to make a comparison of the Guide Number. If you set your speedlight 10 feet away from your light meter, switch your speedlight on and set to full power, and zoom in the flash head to it's narrowest beam setting (normally 105 or 200 mm). Press the read button on the light meter while in corded flash mode and then fire your speedlight, then take a note of the f/stop. Multiply this by 10 (10 feet) and the result will be your speedlights maximum Guide Number. If you're using a standard studio strobe then use a standard reflector to take your measurements. (Obviously you won't have a zoom setting). Remember to set your meters ISO to 100 and a fast enough shutter speed so than no ambient light effects the reading. If you use the Sekonic L358 than you will notice a percentage readout on the display. If there is no ambient light adding to the exposure than 100% should be displayed. This is all of little use really unless you will be using your speedlight at it's maximum zoom setting, but if you measure your speedlights output inside different modifiers and real working distances, it can be a good way to learn how to quickly set up your lighting.

[@johnsuv]

Very beautiful.... sorry I mean helpful! What was that about a light meter??!! No, really, thanks it was a good video and cleared up the av setting problem I was having

[@Oaxacamilamores]

why my light meter doesn't have a wireless flash radio trigger mode icon?

[@RandellJohn]

You have to fit a a transmitter into the panel on the back of the light meter.

[@RMO6701]

thanks.... got cha.

[@cleyvosier]

on the test photos it looks like hot spots on her face ....coud that be caused by the angle of the light not being above at a 45degree?

[@starrshine5976]

What do you set WB too? Auto White Balance? Flash?.....? Thanks.

[@JoeSchmoeLivesHere]

If you're shooting in RAW you can dial in the WB in LightRoom, PhotoShop, etc. Personally, on the camera setting it to Flash will likely be very close and save you time in Post. Best of Luck

[@paxilixap]

the age-old question. point the meter at lens or light source. with multiple lights it makes por sense to point at camera. i saw a kelbytraining video where the instructor swore by pointing at light and even compared the result showing it was underexposed pointed at camera. for me, the lens makes por sense.

[@OZTrini]

Think of your subject as a mirror. a mirror reflects... if the light meter was FACING your subject (the mirror) it will be reading REFLECTIVE metering... off of the mirror that is reflecting.

[@ZixiaLee]

I was actually wondering the same thing...

[@Couple_of_dice]

with the Pc sync Cord

[@rhakotis1032]

how could you replace Erika?😭😭💔

[@ClankyRochet]

I like your fluffy mic.

[@richardewlliams9864]

What I never see is,,, a subject at 30 or so yards away and no way to get near it being metered. How is this done with your meter?

[@cityoflaveen]

why is everyone going crazy about Erica? Great video

[@saaaaataychicken]

she looks so bored...poor thing lol. this vid was great tho, so much info!! thankyou!!!

[@on.belief]

I thought I was following, until I saw the photos. why did f 5 look better than f 8?

[@kebakue]

This is not photography. It's publicity.

[@garvam]

I can't concentrate, cus of Erica !!!

[@a6km]

Hi Erica :D

[@Matthieu1959]

Point your meter to the lightsource and NOT to your camera.... I want to know what the value is of the light !

[@BarryMPeterson]

If only they would of taken a reading for making this video. Exposure fail!

[@lvlik9]

what if you want to shoot at f2.0 and 1/125 shutter and iso 100,how do you adjust for that....how accurate are the e-ttl ii systems..