Dillon RT1500 | Part 2 223 Setup and Trimming

[@Bisley1]

Great video! So much information densely packed with no questions left open regarding lubing or which station to position the M die in etc! 👍🏻

[@joejr9653]

I'm really liking that trimmer. Can't wait to see how the 300 blackout brass conversion comes out.

[@Russell-1]

An excellent 2nd part to the review.

[@JC-gw3yo]

Good concise video... Thanks

[@ProjectArms4719]

The Dillon die, is it a small base die? And would you recommend using a FL bushing die to bump the shoulder ?

[@kfred936]

Question on the lubing step, do you lube the brass and then put them in the case feeder? Does that create any issues with feeding brass through the casefeeder and tube? Also what type of lube do you use and whats your application process for it? Setting an XL750 up and greatly appreciate the help!

[@PracticallySquared1]

Yes I lube before putting in the case feeder, it's designed to be able to handle it. As far as lube I just use lanolin based stuff. I think I have some frankford arsenal stuff right now.. I have a small cardboard box and I just put some cases in there and spay it then shake and spray again.

[@Lee-h2p]

what LED light are you using? Nice educational video BTW!

[@PracticallySquared1]

Thanks! That's actually the UFO light.

[@Lee-h2p]

@@PracticallySquared1 Thanks for your response. I do like your light set up.😀Connecting the trimming die to the toolhead from the bottom is a great idea too! Will certainly be changing my setup as per your recommendation. Kudos to you! 😃

[@dgott7726]

Can the RT1500 be used on other non-dillon presses? I'm looking to make a dedicated trim station for converting .223 to 300blk without having to chop the .223 cases first.

[@easternpromises7991]

Looked like you were removing primers as well. Do you wash your brass before depriming or do you deprime and trim dirty brass before washing?

[@PracticallySquared1]

I wash it then run it through this, then wash it again. I mainly do the second wash as the SS pins in the wet tumbler take care of any remaining burrs and also cleans the lube off the case but a byproduct is it also cleans the primer pocket then too.

[@easternpromises7991]

@@PracticallySquared1 Ah, so double wet tumbling and double drying. That's an option too, I guess =D Thanks for the explanation.

[@Transmissions]

Thanks a lot for this vid! Is this acceptable for mixed brass, like range pickup? I was really confused by all the talk of shoulder bumping I’ve been reading about. I’m just going for plinking ammo.

[@Bisley1]

Yes, for mixed headstamp range brass plinking ammo you just need it bumped to within spec and be sure not to go near max charge on your powder because case volumes will vary and what might not cause overpressure in one brand, may do so in another. For more accuracy you‘ll want to sort headstamps and be sure to shoulder bump and trim to the same length every time. But fot blinking, you just need a case gauge if you don’t have something like the hornady bullet comperator bushings etc.

[@Transmissions]

@@Bisley1Tthanks a lot for the reply. Does simply using a FL die that makes contact with the shell plate enough to cover most mixed brass?

[@Transmissions]

@@Bisley1 Thank you! This is all for plinking. Sometimes its hard to find a straightforward answer. I'm just going to FL size and then trim/size to spec. Does that sound proper? As far as charge, I definitely to try shy away from anywhere close to max. I mostly load subs in 300BLK and 9mm. 223 is where I have to be careful.

[@StewieStew820]

I wish the Swage It didn't void the warranty. I can have a full case prep process if so.

[@PracticallySquared1]

Yea I feel you.. I've heard mixed reviews on it. The gist I get is if you take it easy it works good but has been known to Crack shell plates. Personally I use the RCBS military crimp remover on my case prep center. It just cuts enough of the crimp out to make it accept a primer but not too much. I'm looking for something press mounted though.

[@jeffrichardson500]

Do you leave your tool head set up after the initial adjustment? Seems to me that would be the way to go, but means you will have several tool heads set up for this operation in the future. Saves Time?

[@PracticallySquared1]

Yea I leave my toolheads setup. Toolheads are cheap, $35 or so. Doesent make sense to me to not leave them setup.

[@DeltaMikeNoshoot]

Thanks for the video. Is there a reason you don't run the trimmer in station 3 and M die in station 5 like you mentioned? I was hoping to run them both on the same toolhead then use a decapper in station 1 on my loading toolhead to check for left over stainless pins.

[@remedybooking]

This is a great video mini series indeed. I just set mine up with the trimmer in station 3 and the M die in station 5 and would like to run it that way but I ran into a issue with the pin that holds the toolhead in gets in the way of the vacuum attachment. I'm thinking about taking a Dremel to the attachment and cut away enough plastic so it'll form around that pin. I would also have to take the trimmer off to remove the pin to remove the toolhead. Wondering if anyone else has done anything similar.

[@DeltaMikeNoshoot]

@@remedybooking Use an old dremel bit as the pin. Mine sits almost flush with the frame. I was walking around my local hardware store for a solution when it came to me. I recently used an M die before stainless tumbling and my case necks closed up again so I had to use the M die after tumbling which was disappointing. There seems to be a lot of misinformation around or confusion by people loading on 1050's. The 1050 swage backup die is also an expander so if you used an M die before cleaning then ran it through a 1050 the expander/backup die opens up the necks again anyway. A solution for the 650/750 might be to run a decapper in station 1, an M die in station 2, then the powder measure with the old school powder measure springs and no failsafe rod in station 3. Seat and crimp in 4 and 5. You wont be able to run a bullet feeder though. I think a decapper in 1 is important in case you get any pins stuck in the case.

[@PracticallySquared1]

I was having a hard time getting it to fit properly. It worked for 223 but the 300 blk short tool head wouldn't allow me to. I decided to just do it in station 1 on my loading toolhead. Those ss pins that I use to clean the lube off before I load get any and all burrs.

[@davem2203]

When do you swage the brass. Great video.

[@PracticallySquared1]

I do that prior to loading. I usually wash it first that way I don't have to handle the oily brass.

[@Bisley1]

If you decap on your trim toolhead, you won’t have to do it before swaging.

[@jawsmod]

Setup looks like a PITA. If your doing 1,000 + cases at a time ok. Imaging doing small batches of 223, 308, 300 BLK and having to setup every time.

[@PracticallySquared1]

Once you set it up you just leave it set. I make jam nuts for the trimmer that have a set screw. When you remove the trimmer the jam nut stays set that way next time you just screw the trimmer snug to the jam nut. Easy as heck.

[@joebleaux3762]

Do you have any of the set screw jam nut’s available?