Direct ink to PCB CNC Plotter

Direct ink to PCB CNC plotter
Part 2 available here: • Direct ink to PCB CNC-...
Part 3: • Direct ink to PCB CNC-...
This is my attempt of putting some leftover hardware together
to build a plotter to help me create PCB designs from scratch.
It plots directly onto the copper board so all I then need to do is
etch it, and go !
My requirements are rather humble I must admit, 2.54mm raster
is ok for me, so is simplest SMD.
I have been using this a lot lately, and I must admit it works just
fine. For final PCBs I still use ordering services, but not as often
as I used to ...
Enjoy !
Edit:
It seems the the link to the python g-code GUI is dead,
I moved the ardGcodeWriter.py to the github repo down below, since
I seem to be maintaining it now. It can be found in the Extras directory.
(last update: 2015/01/08)
Update 2016/04/18: Pushed updates to the firmware, please update to the latest release.
The aduino firmware used for this is available for
download via github. See here:
github.com/dhe...
It is published under GPLv2 and should be considered
beta quality.
If you like what you see, and want to help out making this sort of development and production possible in the future, please consider a small donation at:
www.paypal.me/...
This helps a lot in keeping the channel and its content free and un-influenced.

[@nickp5070]

I really love it when people are able to repurpose/recycle parts and make them do awesome things like this!

[@dherrendoerfer]

No bushings, the rails are 4mm brass tubes, the sled is 6/4mm CFK tube, some silicone based lubricant keeps it gliding softly.

[@reallifesometimesandgaming1894]

Dirk Herrendoerfe

[@dherrendoerfer]

No, just brass tube over brass/carbon rods.

[@xbmAsTeR360]

Dirk Herrendoerfer hast du eine teile liste? bzw. Ableitung zum Bau?

[@dherrendoerfer]

Nein, nicht von dem hier - der war nur aus 'Elektroschrott' und dem was noch so rumlag.

[@dherrendoerfer]

The controller is an Arduino Mega. The software on the controller is based on rsteppercontroller. The software to make the PCB layout is Eagle. It generates HPGL which is then converted to g-code by hp2xx. The software to sent the g-code to the Arduino is ardGcodeWriter, a python utility.

[@dherrendoerfer]

I have made PCBs with SOT23 and 0805 SMD parts on them, but a 8mil track is beyond the capability of this unit. The pens I use have a 0.4mm (15mil) line width and require at least 4mil clearance. The limitation is imposed by the 3.6deg/step motors and the pen holder. With better parts at hand, and a better pen I guess it could be possible.

[@robmccance]

Well done Dirk! You are a (rare) example of a REAL engineer. Merging every aspect of engineering to achieve a goal: electrical, mechanical, software, chemistry! I love it. No sure what you are doing for etching but I found very small quantities of HCL + H2O2 is very effective, inexpensive and clean.

[@GralRoyMustang]

amazing design, its simple but functional and the best part its the lack of Dremel tool noise, congrats

[@dherrendoerfer]

Thank you !

[@sicarii_Tactica]

Dirk that was simply amazing man. You my friend will survive the fall of man, zombie apocalypse. Very inspirational work, wished people post more work like this. Thanks for sharing.

[@stephenfitton5516]

Over simplicity,owesome,you have just opened a new train of thought,appreciated

[@Friendroid]

Began learning about arduino last June but only recently started looking into stepper motors. I came across some videos of XY plotters but thought I'd try using a marker pen instead to draw small circuits. This way I'll reuse old dvd/cd drives, learn cnc and build something useful. Your work will be my main guide and I just wanted to leave a comment because I found your pen holding mechanism really, really clever. Glueing the top ring to act against the servo horn is so simple but effective. Thank you for sharing

[@hofmannsapprentice]

The use of a servo is brilliant for the Z axis, you're full of great ideas!

[@TomasSab3D]

For the holder of a pen... Roll the pen in paper, and hot glue the paper into a solid tube. A chick layer of hot glue all around, to make a "cocoon". To reduce pen wobble even further - The paper can be bent closer to the tip of the pen. It keeps the pen from falling out, downward, as well. The wiggle is minimal, as the paper tube is fitted on to the pen, and the hot glue holds it in place. The contraption can be hot-glued to any carrier plate... generous amounts of hot glue will form a solid block of stiff plastic. It's almost like like 3D printing.. This looks childish, but it works. And you can make a new tube for any size and diameter of a pen, literally, within minutes. No drilling, no nothing - hot glue and a peace of paper (preferably slippery paper of lower friction).

[@dherrendoerfer]

Yes, definitely a good way to do it - I found that adding a mask for the tip of the pen will greatly enhance accuracy - but I agree that your build is very simple and efficient. I dont think it is childish, the first 3D printers were basically hot glue guns on wheels -

[@dherrendoerfer]

Its a Mega board with the 2560. It could well be anything else - it just needs 8 IOs for the steppers and one PWM for the servo. The cool thing is that it thinks that it is a full-on CNC machine, so I expect to re-use it a couple of times.

[@PiefacePete46]

I don't need to etch pc boards, but I'm going to try to follow your design anyway, because it is so good! Thanks.

[@serdar-ors]

+John Colvin how do you make pcb design without etching chemical substances. I am trying to find the better way too.

[@TheKyshu]

+Serdar Örs One way would be using a CNC mill or scratching outlines into the board by hand.

[@B32Mike]

Finally a use for red map markers. I have a bunch because I can't use them on my maps! I can't read them at night under red lens then.

[@rimmersbryggeri]

I have been toying with the idea that an old citizen printiva printer that is made to take very thinck print media and is ribbon based might be good for printing PCB's. It's also very accurate since it prints each color separately.

[@dherrendoerfer]

+rimmersbryggeri That's probably worth trying out .

[@franciscgedeon9237]

Nice work. In my experience, the ferric chloride gets a bit under the marker lines. You could try painting the whole board and than removing marker with the CNC, using a pointy tool. Of course, you'd be "printing" in negative. Best of luck!

[@dtiydr]

How someone was able to bend the axel of the stepper motor to the left at the beginning is beyond my understanding.

[@DavidALovingMPF102]

Amazed at your intelligence. I am trying to get same results by this summer. Laser has not arrived. USAF could really use you.

[@amauryoliveira7311]

Friend Dirk Herrendorf, could post the measurements of this first cnc of wood that you did, I'm sure it would satisfy the taste of many who are following your videos, because we do not have a 3D printer to print the pieces. Congratulations on the beautiful design of the CNC. Grateful

[@JonHeckendorf]

Nice working prototype. Thanks for sharing. Just an idea, how about using the drying time to drill the holes in the pads. Should minimize any damage to the pads due to mechanical adhesion of the copper prior to the etching process while making for an even faster turn around time. Do it manually or automatically by replacing the ink pen with a Dremel tool or equivalent using the same CNC, eliminating any registration problems. Any problems with debris or anything else should be an easy engineering fix. Just a thought.

[@dherrendoerfer]

I thought of that, but I ran into two problems, first: the nylon based drive can't handle the load, and I was not able to produce g-code with any tool that would allow to nest those commands into one nc program.

[@JonHeckendorf]

Dirk Herrendoerfer Dirk, thanks for responding. Yes, weight would be a factor unless a different drill motor is used if one exists or a different drive system is used. Maybe, a gear reduction setup for example? When I like something, I try to see the full potential of a project. That is just the engineer within me. Now, software is another issue, entirely. I see usefulness in your project. Parts being recycled instead of being thrown away into a land fill. I wrote this post for the world to see so someone would have better workarounds for you. You do not have to respond to this post.

[@valdirlima8778]

Hello guys. Modifications to Python 3.4: from tkinter import * import serial import time import os # import tkMessageBox from tkinter import messagebox import tkinter from tkinter.filedialog import askopenfilename

[@pengo98]

well found my next project....something like this will make things a million times easier.....

[@nitrogamesstudios5276]

Dirk would you like show us a detailed arduino tutorial based on the stepper motor 28byj 48 because there bunch tutorials about this but when you try the code is just buzz the stepper😢. Thanks for your tutorials

[@aldeen19]

Such a nice interesting design, well done.

[@dherrendoerfer]

Thank you very much !

[@zacao9]

Simple and efficient! Congratulations!

[@TonySmith-en4br]

You need to replace your stepper motor since the shaft is BENT, I can see it moving almost 1mm on the end and perhaps .5 - .75MM where the wire is wound. Even .5mm is a HUGE ERROR in PC Board making unless they are very loose specs which means no DIP ICs, Definitely no surface mount ICs. It may work to some degree but should be fixed especially since its an easy fix. I used to work making circuit boards and even 20 years ago the specs were .004 max and many like surface mount were even smaller ! Now you need a microscope to place the surface mount IC parts ! Thin steel cable with a spring on one side would also improve accuracy. Nice job for a quick build though.

[@dherrendoerfer]

You are quite right, but I targeted this for 2.54mm grid accuracy, and it works fine for that, This is just a rapid prototyping tool - I still use board services for more advanced stuff, and this machine won't replace that - ever.

Hi! How controler knows the zero x,y point if don´t have any sensor to detect the end position?

[@dherrendoerfer]

The control software moves the pen into the lowest left corner of the build platform. Since the nylon will eventually slip on the drive shaft it simply does this by force. It then resets it's position to 0.0 and waits for commands. This feature can be enabled in the source code.

Thank you!!!!

[@Dancopymus]

Hi friend, in the files you shared in version 4, are different materials used from version 3? Or are other materials added? Thanks

[@varietedigital7567]

Hi DIRK, I have many problems using SG90 servo as Z axis in my 2D mini CNC using GRBL firmware V0.9j from GITHUB site,My servo does not move.It`s like it was dead.Please tell me how can fix this problem.THanks.

[@dherrendoerfer]

Try it out with a servo test sketch.

[@arquitectronico]

Excellent work! Instead of the pen why don´t use a original head inkjet printer? I mean to achieve more accuracy!! (sorry if my idea sounds impossible!! i know just a little bit about hardware and electronics) But excellent work!!! you´re a genius!!!

[@dherrendoerfer]

+arquitectronico Thanks ! Your idea sounds pretty cool - but I also have no clue as to how that could be done.

[@py2wy408]

hello, in the manufacture of the PCB the pen goes from the side of the track, how do I make the pen paint on top of the track. thank you

[@nelsondarwinpaktech3954]

The best one among all the plotters,,,

[@digitalhands6304]

The biggest drawback of this method is that, you can not draw thin lines with the pen. Its ok for big PCBs, but when you are designing something small, you can not use this method. toner trnasfer works better with small and detailed designs.

[@nikosdrogosis3831]

Hello again,i am trying to create the v4 of the plotter,i have 3d printed the parts,but i am having trouble understanding how to move the pen holder with the t2 belt and where to connect the belt.In the stl file folder there exists only Plotter_v4_Tool_Sled.stl and you write in the document to get the rest from v3.can you tell me if something is missing ?

[@dherrendoerfer]

Hi, the sled has two holes for a cable-tie to go through to strap the belt to the carriage. You need the pen-holder parts from the v3, but nothing apart from that.

[@permababy]

Dirk Herrendoerfer with microstepping you could get a 1.8deg resolution.

[@pranavjain7822]

hi dirk i just wanted to know that mecahnism that you have used to slide the thread ? which part is attached at the end of the x axis so that the thread keeps od moving the pen?

[@dherrendoerfer]

The carriage is made of 2 pieces of carbon tube around the brass rod, it is connected to the stepper and a bearing on the other side with a piece of nylon (fishing line) that is attaced only to the carriage. To get enough force on the nylon is wound around stepper a couple of times.

[@prchat]

Congratulations, Great job Bro !!! I Encourage You to keep going !!! This is great resource and very educational !!!

[@herrfriberger5]

I would rather hear the plotter(s) than a piano concerto ;-)

[@olasoderlind5685]

so waht method do you rpeferi uv.light or paint and bath? now bulid a robotic arm to move the card to next satian ( bath ) and drill hol or make a drilling tool to it :)

[@suyog44]

Please share the DIY steps. So that we can also try such a great CNC machine.

[@t3du]

Dirk all the .INO files on github must be transfered to the arduino or I must create a workspace for the files and the will burned all into the arduino????

[@dherrendoerfer]

All the .ino files and the .h files from the root _OR_ the beta directories need to go into a uCNC_controller directory. This you can open in the Arduino IDE. The Arduino IDE handles it from there. ()

[@michaelp.506]

Hallo Herr Herrendörfer, ich brauch noch mal Hilfe. Mein Servo für die Z-Achse will nicht, er dreht nicht. Habe den Servo an Pin 12 angeschlossen, versch. Modi (S1, S2) probiert, Betrieb mit Netzteil, etc. Auf dem Oszillokop sieht es so aus, als ob die PWM nur einmal geändert wird, und dann nie wieder. Was mache ich falsch/wie steuer ich den Servo richtig an/wie lautet der Befehl ? Danke, mit bestem Gruß Michael

[@dherrendoerfer]

motor_mode sollte 1 sein, und es muss etwas sinvolles in der configuration des Z steppers stehen - der stepper wird in software emuliert, und der Servo springt bei einem Uebergang zwischen plus und minus um.

[@Crazymakers]

HI friend, Which software do you use to generate your g-code? I perfectly know how to generate contours, but it seems you know of to fill certain contours! Thanks ^^

[@ElectronFunCom]

Wow, you made something very useful out of computer junk. Haven't you think about substituting the marker with a Dremel like tool and converting your plotter into a CNC milling machine?

[@hlevine10]

Good video. Question. Did you export the PCB file straight from eagle etc?

[@spgilmorespgilmore]

How does the software know how many steps per unit of distance? If I use a different motor, how to do I tell it there are 0.8 steps per degree, or that 360 degrees of rotation translates to 1.3cm of travel? Is it the G-code generator or the Arduino sketch which translates distance units into motor steps?

[@dherrendoerfer]

No, you need to make a small change in the firmware for that. The firmware uses steps per millimeter as a settting for each axis, so you can use three different steppers, or have a different drive setup per axis. The same is also true for the maximum speeds per stepper.

[@mindiff]

Love it - it's a great candidate for a good winter project, thanks!

[@yeahitworks]

I assume you are using a fishing line, instead of a toothed belt? I looks like you made a few loops around the stepper motor shaft, can you show more details how you rigged it up? Nice video by the way, hope to see more.

[@dherrendoerfer]

It's nylon string rated at >50N. It is wound 4 times around the steppers motor shaft. There is no slippage, except when the pen holder runs into an end position, so it's ok to keep things from breaking. I saw this design back in the late 80s on a HP plotter. I am planning to make a video once I make my next PCBs, I'll try to get in some detail shots.

[@marcusjenkins]

Awesome. What about the rails? Are they just steel bar with Oilite-style phosphor-bronze bushings fired fitted to your sled and pen carriage?

[@alexey8879]

Good day. Please tell me how to run CNC Shield through the Arduino UNO ? as was suggested to me that Shield should be the driver. Where to get this driver for CNC Shield?

[@dherrendoerfer]

+Алексей Кротов Which shield are you referring to ? My firmware supports a number of driver configurations. There is a link to github in the description of the video. Along with the firmware are a number o readme files that describe the supported configurations and hardware setups.

[@user-ps9gy4pp7k]

Hi Dirk. the speed of the stepper motors (28BYJ-48) are moving very slow. I am using uCNC_controller_v4 Firmware with #define V1_BOARD 1. How can I do Thank you

[@dherrendoerfer]

ยุทธพงษ์ พ Hello you can rise the stepIssueFrequency for each axis in uCNC_controller_v4.ino. Also you can try to allow them to ramp up further using the RampMax values, but beware - the small steppers cannot take too much speed and will start loosing steps.

[@sonus89]

The most quickly method is to make a direct pcb printer out of an old inkjet printer. :)

[@aaroncake]

In my experience, resist ink works very poorly. Perhaps with CNC control it is a bit easier to get consistent coverage. But the process to wait for the plotter (not to mention development time!) seems to be at least a few minutes. Laser printing on toner transfer paper, cutting out the piece, running it through a laminator and the dropping into ferric chloride is about 3 minutes. Obviously that overlooks the fun and learning of building the plotter, but if the point of the exercise is simply to get a few PCBs every day or week, toner transfer (proper paper like the Pulsar stuff) wins. Then again other people seem to buy cars while I prefer to build them, so doing stuff for the sake of doing it is often its own reward.

[@1pcfred]

In my experience the toner transfer method leaves a lot to be desired. Plus that paper ruined two toner cartridges on me. To the tune of what they cost. Which is quite a bit.

[@aaroncake]

Paul Frederick Probably depends a lot on the toner and printer used. I've only used a Lexmark printer, mainly because I had it and knew I could go into the service menu and crank the toner density to a ridiculous setting.

[@1pcfred]

aaroncake I figured I used lousy transfer paper. But even if that worked the transfer process itself to a copper clad board leaves much to be desired. In any event I abandoned the toner transfer method long ago. For me it was thoroughly substandard.

[@MultiBwee]

Hello Dirk , I recreate the plotter , aduino uno and ulm2003 motor drivers , 6 wire unipolar stepper motors and tower pro servo motor , on sending the g-code my motors just vibrate no movement

[@dherrendoerfer]

Try to reduce the frequency the steps are sent to the stepper.

Mind=blown. Incredible :O Wish i could build this later on.

[@varietedigital7567]

Hi Dirk!, you told us in yor last video that we have to change certain values depending on the project we made.I personally didn`t see this situations in your videos.When you download the ARDUINO hex file interpreter into the chip...does it do automatically?Wheres is the point from we have to change of?

[@logan_kes]

Im having an issue with uploading the code. the ide doesnt like this line/ says not declared in this scope: process_command(command_line); what is the issue.

[@dherrendoerfer]

***** Are all .ino files from the directory opened in the IDE ? They should automatically open. If not, then that is the issue.

[@pacocable]

¿Como has construido el sistema de transmision de los carros x y? muchas gracias How did you build the car transmission system x and? thank you very much

[@TitiloTeam]

Hi. Can you tell me what chain of software do you use for getting the GCODE? Thanks!

[@dherrendoerfer]

Roberto Sale Yes, I've made a video about that: Look here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/nKC3aKWirN6gmcU

[@christianbacher2698]

Hello Dirk, great! I was trying to use a 3D printer for this. However, failed due to the wrong pen (the ink got etched away). What "brand" do you use? Is the pen moving down by "gravity"? Does this not lead to a "blob" when the pen hits the PCB board? Do you use GBRL for controlling the stepper and servo? Thanks.

[@dherrendoerfer]

+Christian Bacher Hello, I use Staedtler Lumocolor permanent pens. They are in fact gravity driven. I made a holder for 3D Printers (see my other videos) that can be fitted to any 3D printer, and will work with them. The pens inc dries instantly, so there are almost no pen-down blobs.

[@juanjosevalladares5200]

what of all the arduino codes of the file I need to uplode to my arduino to use it whit the "28BYJ-48 stepper motor" that you use in your video number 3. I will be very thanks if some helps me because the inglish its not my native language and im very interesting in this proyect :(

[@dherrendoerfer]

You need to import the entire project from the uCNC_controller directory, the Arduino IDE should open several files. Then you need to read through the uCNC_controller.ino file and make some small changes that describe your setup. But that is mostly it - if you run into any issues, I'll be happy to help.

[@timhofstetter5654]

Which pens? I'm ready to do it now, but there are hundreds or thousands of different pens out there to test and discard. You and one other guy obviously both use some sort of Staedtler pens, but which ones mark copper well and resist etching?

[@dherrendoerfer]

Staedtler Lumocolor Permanent. Black and red work best. Also Edding 3000 fineliner black.

[@timhofstetter5654]

@@dherrendoerfer Excellent! Thank you very much! 8) 8) 8)

[@darioalani]

Hello, i am trying to build a one cnc machine like this, but i have a problem using a arduino nano. Can you help me or send me a diagram for the pcb that you build to the arduino nano. thx

[@dherrendoerfer]

Luciano Alanis No problem, at the bottom of the video description there is a link to my github repo, there in the Extras folder are all the schematics (Eagle format) and some more info. ( github.com/dherrendoerfer/uCNC_controller )

[@juanaisabelmendezgarduno4351]

Hi Dirk. I am tring you project. With nano arduino and V1 uCNC controller. Using motorMode = 1. While steppers 1 and 2 run ok. They move well with G00 X10, G00 X-10, G00 Y10, G00 Y-10 commands. I have problemm with servo connected to port 12. After power on/reset it runs forever. For troubleshooting: I have exchange pin 13 with pin 12 [ changed lines myServo.attach(13), led=12] now servo is connected to pin 13 with same results, it always run. It looks like is looking for a end position switch. LED at pin 13 is always on too. Any suggestion please? Best regards.

[@dherrendoerfer]

+Isabel Méndez Garduño Hello, it could be that your servo is broken, or it is the wrong type (continuous motion). You need a steering type servo (from a RC car, for example.) Best regards, Dirk

[@juanaisabelmendezgarduno4351]

+Dirk Herrendoerfer . Danke Dirk. You were right I was using a continuos motion sm-s4303r servo. I changed to hd1160a servo. Now it works great. Even I think is too weak to move any pen + spring. Any one you recommend? So far I just connected bipolar steppers motors and servo on breadboard. I will hack a old Moto shield adafruit V1.0 to drive bipolar stepper motors, removing IC 74HCT595 and wiring ports 8,9,10,11, 4,5,6,7 to L293D input. Same for 12 and 13 Ports. Does the firmware V1 uCNC supports 45 ° traces? Danke sehr.

[@dherrendoerfer]

+Isabel Méndez Garduño I use the cheap SG90 servos to other 9mm steppers, a pen usually needs no more than 20g of weight to work properly. Yes lines at any angles are supported.

[@TheDZFreeMan]

I looove what you did. Thanks for sharing.

[@chrismicro1]

Hi Dirk what kind of pen are you using to plot on the PCB?

[@dherrendoerfer]

Hi, it is a Staedtler Lumocolor permanent S pen.

[@deyviperez7246]

I mean your cnc this extraordinary and taught that if we make a grasia.

[@dherrendoerfer]

a grasia ?

[@Lvvcassss]

With running times over half hour and fan blowing do you have problems with the pen tip drying?

[@dherrendoerfer]

***** Only once, when half of the board was blackened. It works good with those pens, they have some sort of drying out protection.

[@basbas1971]

do you sell the kit with software and guide? i am very surprised, the development in acid copper is precise?

[@dherrendoerfer]

Bas Bas I don't sell kits, all the software is available free (see link in description)

[@297259]

Станок практически на коленке 👍

[@dherrendoerfer]

Ja, hab ich - sieh dir mal die letzte Minute des Films an. Das Funktioniert recht gut.

[@TatoCanallaGamingChannel]

Hi Dirk, can you tell me the materials list to this proyect? Because i with a friend we gona do this proyect for one school proyect. And we need the materials, thanks!

[@dherrendoerfer]

This project was a one-off, but I did do a follow-up with part 2 and 4 of this video. These videos all include a link to my github repo, where you can find the details.

[@MultiBwee]

my stepper motors are moving now, i have a problem setting work area coordinates

[@dherrendoerfer]

The uCNC_controller software has no notion of location, set the zero point manually, and reset the point to zero.

[@Bravissimogame]

you would not have a program. exe compatible to use with arduino?

[@dherrendoerfer]

No, sorry - but I think some have gotten it to work - maybe someone will answer -

[@Nonexister1]

DO you plan on posting the instruction for this anywhere? I would like to try my hand at building one.

[@shannog1363]

Hi,Dirk,I tried to put all .ino files which come with the uCNC controller zip into arduino complier,but none of these passes the arduino check.the complier either give error notice of XX not declared in this scope or OUT of memory error.I wonder why,do i need to get some other relevant libraries?

[@dherrendoerfer]

You need the stepper library installed (the next version won't need it anymore). Unzip into a folder named uCNC_controller and then open the uCNC_controller.ino with with the arduino sdk.

[@shannog1363]

Dirk Herrendoerfer All i got is this' uCNC_controller.ino: In function 'void setup()': uCNC_controller:94: error: 'initMotors' was not declared in this scope uCNC_controller.ino: In function 'void loop()': uCNC_controller:123: error: 'process_command' was not declared in this scope uCNC_controller:130: error: 'powerdown' was not declared in this scope' I have tried several arduino versions.besides,there is a STEPPER library inside the library folder once you installed the arduino.so which version of arduino you are using and do i need to fetch a third-party Stepper library? thanks for your reply.

[@shannog1363]

Dirk Herrendoerfer Thanks,I found the solution to it.

[@CabreraO1]

Hi Dirk, which was the problem of your Github files, to test your software.Thanks I´am unable to upload successfully to arduino Mega Thanks for your support

[@dherrendoerfer]

Hi. Get the github files, put all files in a directory named uCNC_controller. Install a stepper library to your Arduino IDE. Open uCNC_controller.ino in the IDE - all other files should open automatically. Compile and Upload. regards, D.

[@johnrossie6242]

Hi Dirk, first of all I would like to say thank you for the source code you give, I already managed to run the 2 stepper motor . I'll just ask you some question for clarification, what does the use of the void parse_command in your source code? would you mind explain it to me? sorry for I'm still learning.

[@edgarrodriguez-tv1vf]

Hola disculpa bro podrias asesorarme como programar el arduino para poder ejecutar los codigos g y m? y como se elaboro el programa pa cargar los codigos

[@sandrosalessales6324]

Impressionante!!! simples e totalmente funcional !!! Parabéns!!!

[@MrBartleby451]

Amazing stuff, I wish was as clever as this.

[@karlanovakova220]

The problem of European ( German ) permanent marker is that they are alcohol based, while US "sharpie-like" permanent markers are aceton based - much better for etching, but considered dangerous for EU market.

[@2goldapples]

Hey, how are the rails driven? I'm trying something similar, and am trying to figure out the best way to drive them. Thanks!

[@dherrendoerfer]

Here, I use Nylon string, high tension fishing line also works very well.

[@2goldapples]

Ok, but how are those strings being driven, exactly? I see the stepper motors and how the line is wrapped around them, but there should be something on the other side to drive it in the opposite direction, right?

[@dherrendoerfer]

On the other side is a bearing, around which the nylon is wound and goes back to the stepper. The ends of the nylon are fastened to the right and left side of the carriage.

[@2goldapples]

Dirk Herrendoerfer Hey, I figure if you just wound the nylon around the bearing and motor, the motor wouldn't actually make the ski-lift type thing move. How do you get the friction there? Thanks.

[@dherrendoerfer]

Go Ka The nylon is wound around the steppers 3 times - that is ok for the needed friction to move, but if you run into the ends, it won't damage anything. If the stepper rod is too smooth you can apply a thin layer of plasticote or thin glue and let that dry completely. A touch up with a file or metal brush would also do the trick.

[@fazzah777]

I'm simply amazed :) Not only this works great, but is so mesmerizing to watch :) Please tell me, have you tried printing some finer SMD footprints? Like TQFP32 for example.

[@dherrendoerfer]

Yes I have tried, but success was not mine. 0.4mm is the minimal line width I come up with, 0.22 to 0.3 would be required for TQFP32. If only there was a 0.2mm refillable ball point pen that would accept the Staedtler ink - all would be great. 0805 Type SMD works ok though ....

[@fazzah777]

Dirk Herrendoerfer Hmm, bad news :) I've looked on the Staedtler website and unfortunately they don't have anything in sub-0.4 width. Maybe some other suppliers. Schwan-Stabilo comes to mind, I'll have a look. Also, one other question: why are your traces 90 degree straight? ;)

[@fazzah777]

Dirk Herrendoerfer check this out: www.stabilo.com/com/p/stabilo-sensor. Maybe worth trying? ;) I wonder how good coverage the ink provides...

[@VictusMei]

Genius! Thanks for taking the time to make an informative video.

[@peterpaul9040]

Hello Dirk. Thank you for your video. Can you please explain how do you use laser for PCB milling? Can please explain what are those steps for making PCBs with this kind of laser? I suppose this is laser from DVD burner. Thank you for your answer. Chose

[@dherrendoerfer]

Hello, I am not using the laser to mill a track into the copper, I am using it to expose it onto a photopositive layer on the PCB that then gets developed and etched later. The laser is a UV/blue one from china with 10mW.

[@stanislasnguimatsa2555]

hello hello I am new in the Arduino forgiveness that she/it is the procedure to achieve it thank you for advance

[@southpark4151]

Looks good. However, does the plotter measure the pen's pressure on the board? I'm thinking if the nib keeps getting compressed, then automatic adjustments of the pressure can help. But also, the nib's shape could change a bit over time too. Also, once the etching is done, the drilling of holes must be done manually, right?

[@dherrendoerfer]

Yes, you need to drill yourself. I use a 15 gram weight on the pen to have the correct pressure on the pen tip, that works well, and the pen tip does not seem to mind. In fact I had a pen run dry before the tip showed wear. Only doing over the PCM edge and back will do damage to the tip.

[@southpark4151]

Thanks Dirk. What you did was really impressive. Really nicely done.

[@EvilS0B]

Hiya Dirk. Great project! Do you have a website/forum anywhere to assist builders with troubleshooting? I've breadboarded all the electronics, but software seem seems slow and unresponsive AT TIMES. And I feel wrong using YT as a forum... Thanks

[@madangowri1232]

Sir please send the software setup video. Hence it can't generate the gcode it shows some error

[@dherrendoerfer]

the hp2xx software ? Use the one from my github repo and put the tool in a folder you created under the root '\' directory. Modern windows may prevent programs from creating files in folders you don't own. Cheers Dirk

[@antalbence0305]

Hi! I see that you have only two of ULN2003 or ULN2004 and you use this for the X and Y axis. But how do you control the Z axis?

[@dherrendoerfer]

+Benee The Z-axis is controlled by a servo, directly connected to the Arduino, but anyway - an ULN2003 has 7 darlingtons so with 2 chips there are enough lines to drive 3 steppers.

[@antalbence0305]

+Dirk Herrendoerfer Thank you for the fast answer. :)

[@SuperCoolHero]

nice but improve to better materials and junp to spindle (cnc dremel) or somethink like these, i am workink hard in my cnc ruter right now, i waiting for pieces (buyed online)

[@RBSVader]

Very nice. I shoud make myself something like that.

[@pranavjain7822]

hi i just wanted to know one more thing that if you can provide us with bom?

[@dherrendoerfer]

There is a bom available for the electronics, for the rest of the plotter I used what I had laying around, it's kind of hard to make a bom from that.

[@tiwar87]

Excellent work .. Keep Going Sir. So just let me ask you what you need to know to do this project, i mean, i guess you are a mechatronic engineering but if somebody who doesnt know about mechanics (Im electronic eng and i dont know nothing about mechanics parts), it is possible to do this project by myself without this knowledges?

[@dherrendoerfer]

I suppose so - I know my mechanics from LEGO, and I work as a programmer. So I guess you are probably better qualified than I am.

[@tiwar87]

Dirk Herrendoerfer haha thanks for the info colleague. Keep doing the good work..

[@user-qw2vo5tg2d]

Hey Dirk! Which software you used to get G-Code? From Gerber file? Thanks

[@dherrendoerfer]

I export to hpgl, and then use hp2xx, for Gerber files I recommend FlatCam.

[@user-qw2vo5tg2d]

+Dirk Herrendoerfer thank you very much!

[@TheTechnocrat]

The grbl controller or any other g code software is not detecting the COM Port. I got ok in serial monitor. But the Grbl Controller Says " no data from the COM port after connect. Expecting for the Grbl version string." Can you please help me with this????

[@dherrendoerfer]

What type of Arduino are you using ?

[@TheTechnocrat]

Dirk Herrendoerfer I am using Arduino Uno and I have windows 8

[@TheTechnocrat]

i even tried on on windows XP But of no use.

[@TheTechnocrat]

is there any way to make the grbl controller understand the version string????

[@dherrendoerfer]

I suppose it is a timing issue, since it works for the beta versions, that use exactly the same string, also: it works with some boards. It's not an issue with GRBL controller.

[@cutesanfoora8836]

??can you help me to write how work my cicuit because my project is similar to this and i use arduino

[@dherrendoerfer]

I suppose, what are your issues ?

[@Bright8888]

Hi Dirk, your idea is great and the project is very impressive. Do you think you can produce boards that use surface mount parts of 0805 & 0603 size and a track width of 8 mil?

[@ImaginationToForm]

Hello, Really neat project. I've seen your 3d printed one but I think I'll try it with wood first. I don't have any 5.25 floppy drives and didn't even see them on craigslist. Would the motors called nema 17 be good enough? Also do they have to be 4mm tubes? I've seen 1/8" rods sold at my lowes. I'm not sure how changes in motor and rods will change how the software.

[@dherrendoerfer]

NEMA 17 is just the size, you would need unipolar NEMA 17 (6 wires). The software can be tuned to whatever rod and driver size you use.

[@ImaginationToForm]

Ah. Thanks for info.

[@jrundruud]

Dirk Herrendoerfer Why are unipolar steppers necessary? I am asking this because I'd like to make a plotter myself, but I only have bipolars at the moment.. :)

[@dherrendoerfer]

jrundruud Well, necessary in the way, that the controller I use only supports unipolar steppers right now, but that is mostly software and can be changed.

[@ElectronDust]

very Impressive. Nice work!

[@dherrendoerfer]

Thanks !