Diresta Bandsaw Restoration 19: Machining a Special Nut with Left Hand Internal Threads

[@thirzapeevey2395]

Buggy axles are made with left hand threads on one side for the same reason. It has been a lot of years since I took one apart, but if I remember correctly it is the left hand side that has left hand threads, right side having right hand threads, so that the wheels are always tightening the nut as you drive. Later buggies have Timken cone bearings and a castle nut and cotter pin, but early ones used those left hand threads. I overtightened one trying to get it off myself. Fortunately, we were reboxing the wheels and welding on new axle arms anyway. Thank you so much for the views over your shoulder. Finally I understand what you are talking about when you say you are waiting for the number to come around. I hope you do more of those views. I feel like I learned a lot this time.

[@jasoncolcom]

Great video Keith. Here in the UK we mark aa left hand thread nut by using a threading tool to score the centre of the nut in the middle of the corners. That way people don't make the same mistake you did trying to take it off. These are found on ALL our gas bottles so you can't mix oxy/acet lines on the bottles.

[@MattOGormanSmith]

In shipyards different gasses had different pitch threads too. Then, for convenience in keeping fewer hoses on hand, they had adaptors from one thread to another. Ships were sunk.

[@erichill5208]

Just like the left hand thread for acetylene gas

[@MatthewScott]

Lot of heim joint jambs nuts here have that mark. The left handed ones that is.

[@The_DuMont_Network]

If there is any bolt sticking through it is fairly easy to check which way the threads run. But an L stamped in the end of the bolt is really handy for the next poor guy who has to deal with it.

[@cheeseburger9232]

@@The_DuMont_Network like Ford did on thier trucks.

[@glvanbergen]

favorite steel surgeon

[@mdouglaswray]

Such nice over-the-shoulder views! Thanks, Keith, it's almost like we're standing at the lathe with you.

[@john2256]

I appreciate the honesty when things don't go right...

[@davidpennington4477]

I trained as a machinist back in the middle 70’s. I still miss working with metal. I enjoy watching you work.

[@charlesmoore7209]

Camer angle on the thread cutting was great. always enjoy you videos. very educational.

[@dermotkelly2971]

Good video. That takes me back a bit on left-hand threads lol. Almost forgot how to do them.

[@zooobidooo]

I have to say, Keith, your videos are just a great pleasure to watch ! Thank you 🙏

[@wirenut003]

nice job on the re-due work one piece to the puzzle behind you now

[@prodkey]

I have believed for years that machinists are actually magicians! You work such magic! Well done Keith. Amazing to watch.

[@hotrodswoodshed7405]

You have such a huge amount of knowledge about sooo many things. You do a fantastic job explaining things throughly as well as all the great many camera perspectives. Even the smallest of details you show us. Also when you have a mis-hap you leave it in the production and explain why.... while showing us that it happens to the best of them. As well as you convey a good attitude. I like how genuine and real you come across in the videos. Thank you for ALL you teach us... and inspire.

[@halnywiatr]

Time to pull the letter stamp set out of the drawer and give that nut and shaft end matching "LH" tattoos. Future Keith Rucker the Third will thank you.

[@geckoproductions4128]

I've done a bunch of right hand single point threading, but never any left hand. Thanks for the detailed tutorial.

[@t.d.mich.7064]

I always enjoyed threading on the lathe. As I remember it, the last left hand nut I made was a nut for a cross feed screw on a Cinncinati vertical mill. A round bronze flanged nut with 1 3/8" I.D. and a no.4 Acme. L.H. thread bored into it. Also made the replacement Acme lead screw. Fun project! Thanks for the sharing of your experience.

[@MatthewScott]

Great job as always. Smart man you are. Pleasure watching and learning.

[@TrPrecisionMachining]

good job keith

[@par4par72]

I used to make LH and RH Coiling mandrel and the Nut that went with. All different sizes imperial/Micky Metric. Fitment had to go nice because u could adjust the lean angle of the wire ..repeatedly, sooo. On a Torrington Spring winder.

[@fredclark4033]

Nice to see cutting the left hand thread in a bit.

[@aner_bda]

Seeing threads being cut is so satisfying and soothing. Nice job as always.

[@handordabok]

I never get bored of watching you do threading. I cannot tell you how mutch your videos have helped me as I am just job shop/mechanic in middle of nowhere and I don't get to practice as often as I need 😀

[@MachiningandMicrowaves]

00:16:59 A thou oversize. Those "spring cuts" and "blank passes" catch folks out so often. OK, it's within tolerance, but wouldn't balanced cuts would take the luck and guesswork out of the process?

[@MF175mp]

Yes.

[@haroldsprenkle4173]

Hey Keith, thanks for doing videos. Remember major diameter minus pitch equals drill size for approximately 78% theoretical. Only problem is is running spindle in forward with that backwards threading bar you usually run in reverse. Ha. As I have said before. Keep making videos. I get off.work at 3 in the am, not much to watch on tv, so I look on KZbin. Got to close, my watch is well wound, have an old school timex automatic, was running the auto feed okamoto plus the manual feed Sharpe surface grinder most of the evening. Spring calipers with profiled tips, great for checking threads. Before thread mikes there were spring calipers.

[@catfishgray3696]

KEITH, GREAT JOB, PET CATS AND DOGS, SEE YOU ALL NEXT TIME...

[@chrispfeffer1106]

Great job on the video Keith. Nice to see over your shoulder.

[@MrUSNMasterChief]

Another great Job, Keith!!!

[@benpress8884]

Such a joy to watch a master at his craft.

[@williamdrabble8781]

Yet another great video in this series. I'm kind of glad the nut and shaft screwed up so I could see the process of remaking it. Great work Keith

[@stewartalbert3523]

As a teenager i twisted a wheel stud off an IHC truck that had left hand thread . Changing a tire became a big project !

[@chriskythreotis4686]

I’m not a metal worker at all but I do appreciate skilled workmanship and this is awesome!…..👍🇬🇧

[@rexmyers991]

It is fascinating to watch a master at work.

[@kennydebique6192]

I cut my left hand threading on the lathe inside out. Both external and internal. There is more ways of doing it. Thanks for sharing your videos.

[@johnbaker7621]

Good teacher, your easy to follow 👍

[@elsdp-4560]

Thank you for sharing.👍👀

[@varmint243davev7]

Thank You !

[@timziegler9358]

Excellent tutorial on left hand threading!

[@180joz]

Awesome video. Great angles

[@kentuckytrapper780]

Great video Keith, keep'um coming..

[@Zircon10]

Free machining (leaded) steel runs beautifully! No hard spots like CR, nice fine chips. Good stuff!

[@emptech]

I've noticed on some fittings, if it is a left hand thread, there is a slight groove cut around the nut. If I ever see such a grove, I always know it's a left hand thread. I think the nut on my acetylene tank is left hand, isn't it? edit: I didn't read Jason's comment first, minds think alike. Love your videos - Just an idea - Jim

[@jackpledger8118]

Great video Keith. Always enjoy your instruction and easy going way of working out complicated processes.

[@MikeBaxterABC]

Nice work Keith!! .. awesome!!!

[@danielpullum1907]

Nice work Keith. I don't have the luxury of being able to reverse the spindle on my Sheldon 13X36 variable speed.

[@froat1]

Stick a parallel between the first faced side and your three jaw to insure the two faces are parallel.

[@Ambidexter143]

I'm a retired U.S. Navy Senior Chief Petty Officer (E8). I was a submarine yeoman, that's an admin and personnel specialist. When I went to my last command which was a big maintenance organization I checked in and the Admin Officer told me he had a problem. The Chief who ran the small boat shop was on leave and the First Class running the shop in his absence was in hospital having had his appendix removed. The shop needed a Chief and, since the guy I was relieving was going to be there for a month then tag, I was it. I went down to the shop and introduced myself as the temporary in-charge. I was in the office looking at some paperwork when a Second Class Engineman came to me. "Senior Chief, we've got a problem, let me show you." He took me to a boat sitting on a skid and said: "As you can see, the propeller shaft is bent but the propeller is held on with a left handed nut and we don't have any left handed wrenches. What should we do?" I told him: "This is rather delicate so I want you to do it yourself. Go up to that shaft, turn around, drop your pants, and ram the shaft about a foot up your behind. Then spin clockwise. Let me know when you're done." I then walked away. They didn't try that sort of thing on me any more.

[@ellieprice363]

But, But, Super Chief. You told him wrong. From where his head is pointing he’ll need to spin counter-clockwise to loosen that nut. (:-))

[@Ambidexter143]

@@ellieprice363 No, remember righty-tighty lfety-loosey is for right-handed nuts, It's the other way for left-handed nights, righty-clockwise-loosey.

[@ellieprice363]

@@Ambidexter143 Sorry, you missed the whole point.

[@Ambidexter143]

@@ellieprice363 No you missed the point. To loosen a left-handing nut you have to turn it to the right, i.e. clockwise. Sorry if reality disagrees with you. Come back when you've figured out how and why you're wrong.

[@ellieprice363]

@Michael Neville Put yourself in the position that you put the man. His head is pointed away from his rear which is turning the nut to the right to loosen the nut. However from where his head is he’s thinking “I need to spin my body to the left (anti-clockwise). Oh never mind. It’s just a lame joke.

[@dfishpool7052]

Nice job Keith - very impressive!

[@talegunner115]

What a good job sir. I always learn from you!

[@problem_solved]

Keith, A nut with that feature on the bearing surface is called a “washer face”nut.

[@robertlevine2152]

Keith, Will you mark the nut in some way to signify that it is LH? This may prevent the problem you had if ever the nut has to be removed. I am fascinated watching your videos. I worked as a draftsman in high school and as an engineer for 35 years. During that time I wandered into machine shops occasionally. You are connecting the dots for me. Bob

[@georgestephens2593]

Easy to stamp it L H.

[@jonbobtrader]

Took the thought right out of my head. Stamp it PLEASE on BOTH sides.

[@haroldsprenkle4173]

All you have to do is open your eyes and look at it.

[@fasousa4798]

@@haroldsprenkle4173 if the stud is flush with the nut outer face then that becomes pretty hard

[@robertlevine2152]

@@haroldsprenkle4173 Go back and watch the videos of Keith trying to remove the nut and shaft. With time rhe fact the threads were LH became obscured. That's how was damaged. In watching numerous restorations it seems that when theŕe is decades of corrosion and the thread ois not exposed for easy inspection mistakes happen. A simple solution is marking the nut LH or engraving an arrrow pointing CCW and stamp Off at the point.

[@ianmurray2637]

Not the first to be tricked by an LH thread on the other end of the shaft and to go 'Doh!', and won't be the last either :) It happens, we are human and no shame in that, and at least we get to see another installment of rejuvenation fun :)

[@samwest9444]

Have you considered engraving “left hand thread” into the face of the nut to help out the next guy that needs to pull it off?

[@tomthumb3085]

I believe that conventionally there is supposed to be a machined notch on the outside corners of the hex.

[@samwest9444]

@@tomthumb3085 ah ok 👍🏼👌🏻

[@hughdanaher2758]

@@samwest9444 don't tell anyone but if I had a punch set I'd letter the nut LHT.

[@lineshaftrestorations7903]

12L14 cuts like butter. If you don't want to mess with leaded steel 1215 is a good choice. Both very easy to machine.

[@CatNolara]

Small correction: it's not the centrifugal force that could loosen the nut, but the inertia of the wheel and friction. Centrifugal force only acts radially (perpendicular to the rotation axis).

[@MattOGormanSmith]

Extreme RPM could make the nut stretch, but I doubt that's an issue here :)

[@Panzax1]

And to be 100% correct: Centrifugal force doesn't even excist.

[@terrydix3768]

@@Panzax1 Neither does excist 😂😂😂

[@CatNolara]

@@Panzax1 what are you even talking about?

[@The_DuMont_Network]

@@Panzax1 OH?

[@patrickvg1646]

Top job 👍

[@brandenpatterson2776]

Great video!

[@floridaflywheelersantiquee7578]

Good video enjoy watching

[@GeorgeWMays]

Great fun. Thanks.

[@BlackheartCharlie]

Great video! Always fun to watch you work. Is there a way to put some patina on that shiny nut so that it doesn't look so "new"? (e.g. warm it up and apply some boiled linseed oil)

[@buidelrat132]

Would it make sense to stamp "LH" on that nut to help the next guy out?

[@garthbutton699]

Thanks for the video🤗😎🤗😎

[@WilliamTMusil]

Hiya Keith

[@erichill5208]

Nicely done. Abom calls what you call a blank pass he calls it a spring pass.

[@kurtkrueger9715]

Great video, fun to watch the progression of the bandsaw. One question on the left-hand thread, though. Why run the lathe in reverse and and use a reverse-orientation threading bar? Couldn't you just use a standard bar/tool and thread away from the headstock for left-hand threads?

[@problem_solved]

Sure you can. That’s the way I would have to do it, because my lathe has a screw on chuck. If I run in reverse I run the risk of having the chuck unscrewing from the spindle. Joe Pie always cuts threads from left to right. That way he doesn’t have to worry about releasing the half nut at the precise instant to avoid running into a shoulder or the bottom of a blind hole.

[@chriss3235]

With all the different types, grades, classes, etc., how do you determine what kind of material should be used?

[@jasonburns1407]

Can you internally cut the left hand threads by starting at the chuck and feed towards the tail stock with the chuck not in reverse?

[@kimber1958]

thanks KEITH WERY HELPFULL

[@minbannister3625]

That extra piece is "money in the blank" (pun intended, and I'm quite proud of it)

[@paulputnam2305]

I used to make left hand bolts and nuts to have fun with my fellow employees…

[@oldschool1993]

Centrifugal force would never loosen the nut, the reason it is LH is because the resistance force on the wheel wants to spin the wheel counterclockwise and that would loosen a RH thread, but would tighten a LH thread.

[@jonbobtrader]

Picky picky picky but right right right.

[@joelkton1]

Nice!

[@fasousa4798]

A honest question. Do you really need to use a LH threding insert running the lathe in reverse? In my logics using a normal RH threading insert and running the lathe normally but the feed opposite (left to right) should render the same result. AM i missing something? I am asking this because my lathe chuck is screwed in the spindle and running backwards with some torque will undo it.

[@johncoops6897]

Yes, that is another way of doing it. There are 4 different ways of achieving the same result, and Keith chose one which is different to how you'd do it on your lathe. My guess is that he prefers to feed in towards the chuck, since it allows a better view of the way that each cut will start.

[@peterparsons3297]

i bought a 12" import lathe, the threading dial doesn't seem to correspond to any thread i have ever tried to cut. i have to leave the half nut engaged and run the lathe back and forward, not good as it has a threaded chuck backplate

[@haroldsprenkle4173]

Easy peasy. Got to throw one out there. Drill or bore size for tapping or in this case threading. Subtract pitch from major diameter, 78? % theoretical thread, works for metric and unified. Won't work for 60 sharp nor whitworth. Never cut a whitworth, but I have a fishtail with the numbers for 60deg sharp threads. About as big a relic as a 1/2-12 tap, ha. Hey, if you have somewhat of a pattern, spring calipers are your friend. Externals with 60 degrees radiused off a bit, internals similar. I have a pile of spring calipers, accumulation plus an e bay hord I bought. One set of internals were cheap, not heat treated well, soft, bent with pliers, filed and stoned to fit. Good tool to compare with, old sample with new cut part. Hey part you are making just needs to screw on and get tight. Major diameter, minus pitch equals bore, thread until it looks right plus a bit more, might be a bit loose but it will work. Easier than getting out the wires and making a pattern. Ha

[@johncoops6897]

OMG - come back when you are sober.

[@haroldsprenkle4173]

@@johncoops6897 Hey how did you know. Put in my 50 hours this week, sharpened punches and dies last night, whole box full almost done, Trumph cnc punches. Couple of things I was throwing out there was the major diameter minus the pitch, works for all unified pattern threads, metric or imperial, hey sometimes you run across something which isn't on the chart, just remember this, no bs, check it out. Plus the 29 degree thing, some say 30, some say 29 1/2. 29 works for me, cuts mostly on one side, scrapes the other. I have had to cut a lot of threads through the years which had to work, who cared if they were a bit loose, screwed together and tightened up. Reshaped spring calipers are a good comparative tool if you have some sort of pattern, say someone brings you the shaft but not the nut or vise versa. As far as watching Keith's video, yea kinda, been there and done it before, let it run so he could get his ad revenue. I have a lot of respect for these guys who are putting out good content. Keith is one of the good guys. I recommend Joe P. to guys learning machining techniques, Ox tools gets into some of the nitty gritty metrology wise. Hey I love youtube.

[@curtisvonepp4335]

Try a FULL PROFILE insert 10 pitch you will like it

[@MachiningandMicrowaves]

Definitely makes a much better thread form. I only keep a few specific common sizes though, it gets expensive very rapidly unless you are doing lots of single-pointing in different pitches.

[@jankjensen222]

Great video as usual. Thanks Keith! Would it not be a good idea to mark the nut with "LH" using letter punch for future indication of left hand thread.. just a suggestion :-)

[@johncoops6897]

The conventional way is to machine a V-groove into the middle of the hex of the nut. Take a look at a POL Gas bottle connector, you will see the groove.

[@paulputnam2305]

I’m so old I remember when cars used to have left hand lug nuts on the passenger side…

[@richardcurtis556]

Would it make sense to stamp "LEFT" or "LH" on the outside face of the nut?

[@k4x4map46]

nice very nice...show me what ya workin with!!

[@NICK-uy3nl]

Nice job. That nut material seems to be pretty soft steal that could gall and refuse to come out for the next guy (as it did for you); should you heat treat the nuts for hardness ?

[@ellieprice363]

Anti-Seize on the shaft and nut should prevent galling.

[@NICK-uy3nl]

@@ellieprice363 - Short term, yes. long-term anti-seize dries up and turn into dust, it has limited life

[@richardhaugh5076]

You can’t heat treat leaded steel. 12L14 is great to cut but illegal for most things these days because of the lead content.

[@ellieprice363]

You can case harden the nut with “Cherry Red” compound.

[@NICK-uy3nl]

“Cherry Red” - interesting, didn't know about it

[@jmazoso]

Thanks for hooking Keith up Ken!

[@PeteBrubaker]

Why is your tool dragging on the retract after facing?

[@311Bob]

Quick question, couldn't you turn the original nut down past the galling part then add the step back or was the nut beyond saving or the threads engagement to short to be safe

[@johncoops6897]

The galling wasn't the only issue. The internal threads were damaged when he drilled the main shaft out of it.

[@edwardhugus2772]

When you engage the half nut, why did the feed go from right t to left if the lathe was in reverse. Usually running in reverse feeds Left to Right. What did I miss?

[@johncoops6897]

His lathe has separate gearing for the spindle and the feed. So he can reverse either of them independently from the other.

[@edwardhugus2772]

@@johncoops6897 Thanks, I thought that was it, but I.had never used one.

[@geneard639]

So, are you going to mark the nut 'LHT' on a few sides? When I was in the Navy throwing wrenches at helicopters, we had to deal with exactly one connector that cost a stupid amount of money that had a left hand thread and in the early days of it no markings other than a small 'warning' buried in a manual. I replaced so many of those... anyway, since that connector was over $1,000, and we trashed so many, a suggestion was made to etch 'LHT' on 3 of the 6 sides to give someone an idea that...well... maybe that connector was different. Eventually directional arrows and 'TIGHTEN' were added to the box the connectors went to. ....................admittedly it only reduced the times we had to replace that connector. But, stamping 'LHT' on that nut and printing out a water slide decal with a directional arrow and 'TIGHTEN' may help prevent a future Keith Rucker from doing the same thing you did sometime in a far off century.

[@johncoops6897]

The standard way to denote LH Threads is to machine a groove into the center of the hex of the nut. Go look at a BBQ POL Gas bottle connector.

[@charlesnoneofyourbuis5819]

I hope you are going to stamp a "L" on the end of your nut. That will keep someone in the future from making the same mistake.

[@terrywolden2130]

I usually see notches on the edge of a left-hand nut.

[@don1031]

Curious to know how important the thickness of the nut is for securing the shaft. My first thought when you showed it was to just put it in the lathe and remove the damaged portion and then clean up the threads. Perhaps there are some engineering things that make that unworkable and I am interested in whether anyone knows what they are.

[@ellieprice363]

I think that although shortening the nut and cleaning up the threads might have worked good workmanship requires you don’t take a shortcut at this point. The new nut looks great and fits perfectly.

[@kevingrime5772]

Proportions of the nut gives it it's strength. Bear in mind the job it's doing it isn't good to skimp on strength!!

[@don1031]

@@ellieprice363 Thanks for the reply. No argument about the workmanship on the new one! Keith did a terrific job. No doubt it a best practice as a restorer as well as most practical to reproduce an identical piece. It is just interesting to me to try and understand the thinking that went into making it in the first place.

[@johncoops6897]

He drilled out the shaft, and because he missed the center the internal threads were damaged inside the nut.

[@blipblip88]

I wasn't going to watch this video at first, but..sometimes you feel like a nut. April fools and fun vid!

[@SciPunk215]

neat

[@tomthumb3085]

I hope you don’t mind my mentioning this, but you seem to have a large backlash problem on the cross slide dial. Thanks for another interesting and informative video.

[@maxheadflow]

I noticed it too.. Is it backlash or simply flex from someplace else. It could be in either the cross slide or the compound. Maybe the gibbs on the cross slide or compound are loose? The lathe has been completely rebuilt. Maybe things are bedding in a little?

[@Panzax1]

And well worn parts in general. I've never seen a lathe take that big of a cut when pulling the tool back out after such a small cut..

[@johncoops6897]

On the second last threading cut, you could see the tool jump back about 10 thou when he started the cut. Even moved alarmingly on the final spring pass. That thing is as loose as a goose.

[@Panzax1]

@@maxheadflow I don't think he did a complete rebuild. Not including way grinding and scraping anyway ?

[@maxheadflow]

@@Panzax1 kzbin.info/www/bejne/b3KWnIt8gbicapI

[@haroldsprenkle4173]

Compound angle, my compound lives on 29 degrees, don't move it left of right for left or right threads, last little bit is moved with the cross feed. Free passes almost. Why 29 instead of 29 and a half, my eyes and how well was that graduation marked. The whole deal is to cut mostly on one side and scuff the other. Then you could do it the German way and set compound at 90 and have a formula. Nonsense. Set compound at 29, cut it until it looks right, then take a bit more with crosslide till it fits.

[@haroldsprenkle4173]

Hey I used to single point threads, paid piece work. Back in early 1980's i was making a 100 bucks a day. Best money i ever made.

[@johncoops6897]

Why did you waste your time writing that long, boring and redundant story? Didn't you watch the video?

[@GibClark]

👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻

[@first_namelast_name4923]

You have neglected a very important step. You have to mark the nut as a left hand thread by cutting a groove in the middle of that hex profile. That is how left hand threads are marked - so that in 50 or so years when somebody tries to take this apart they do not do the same mistake as you did.

[@johncoops6897]

YES, as already mentioned by many people's comments here.

[@tedmiles2110]

I am left-handed; so this is the right way to turn a nut. April Fool!

[@johncoops6897]

The jokes on you... ever since you were born 😁

[@johnfrench428]

Please stamp new nut with “LH” please for the next guy-in one-hundred years.

[@Auburndad50]

As they say in medical school, "Woops."

[@Tammy-un3ql]

😄😄

[@barryfields2964]

No pun intended but I was was watching when you screwed up the whole bottom of that bandsaw. I was yelling so hard at th screen.

[@darmah1959]

Why not just machine off the end and slightly shorten the nut?

[@johncoops6897]

Because the inside threads of the nut are ALSO damaged.

[@terrydix3768]

Great to watch - I'd be terrified that I'd inaccurately engage the half nuts! 🤣

[@The_DuMont_Network]

I forget... remind me if you will, how many 10 thousandths are there in a "tad"?

[@johncoops6897]

In Australia we use Metric, so a "tad" is approximately 3 poofteenths. A poofteenth is an order of magnitude larger than a fuckall.

[@The_DuMont_Network]

@@johncoops6897 Thanks for clearing that up. I will now get my slide rule and convert it to RCH and BOCH in Imperial. It's very important to keep your measurements precise.

[@johncoops6897]

@@The_DuMont_Network - Do you guys use the BeesDick? From memory I think it's a woodworking tolerance.

[@The_DuMont_Network]

@@johncoops6897 In Texas, the tolerances are expressed in "Gnat's Ass". Only with the advent of precision laser equipments are we able to resolve down to a "Micro Gnats' Ass"

[@The_DuMont_Network]

@@johncoops6897 There's a KZbin channel owned by ABOM79. Excellent machinist. He refers to Crescent" or adjustable wrenches as an "All 32nds" wrench.