DISASSEMBLY & INSPECTION Of A 94 YEAR OLD Model A Ford Engine - Yard Art Model A - Part 7

[@butch2kow549]

Enjoyable video. It should take the bore. Looking forward to see what happens. I want to see you put it back together. Excellent video.

[@ralphh.2200]

I showed my wife when you spun the crank...she liked it vey much...she used to do that to me about 40 yrs ago...

[@rottersgarage]

You sir, I believe just made my favorite comment since I started putting stuff on here. 👍

[@GamingHistorySource]

13:37 INVALID ??? This is awesome. I love seeing these restore videos. MORE !! MORE !!!!

[@richardwhite1975]

You can silver solder those gouge marks and it should work for you. The temps are not severe enough to melt the silver solder. Just a thought.

[@user-eq2fp6jw4g]

Just found out the channel and restoration series of this 1928 Model A Coupe. Watched all the episodes in a row. So far this has been most interesting restoration series to watch/follow. Also hope that original engine block can be restored. Specially how good of a condition the whole engine has been in general. Keep up the good work car will be awesome. 👍

[@mopar4656]

The same thing happened to my '68 Harley, when a circlip failed and the wrist pin moved over, and scored the cylinder wall, but not as bad as that. Bored it out to 60 thou, and the scoring disappeared [luckily]

[@VintageCarHistory]

A man who knows how to use tools will always know how to make them.

[@johndowe7003]

Ya with a lathe and machining table you can make anything

[@saltycreole2673]

I once made a nose picker when I broke my finger.

[@clintonsmith9931]

Remember back in mid 1950s watching my fathers friends putting oil and stuff in cyls in those old things. Working them back and forth and finally getting them to run. They would drive them around and drive them in parades. Long time ago when I was a teen

[@AndysDogHouse]

Hey Rotter. Good video. I enjoy seeing the old stuff brought back to life. Thanks for sharing.🍁👍👍

[@cradabau]

You've really stepped up your game with producing a video. I really enjoyed your Model A rebuild videos. I"m not a car guy, but have always been interested in what that process looks like. You did a great job of making it easy to follow.

[@brianalbee4153]

Sorry to see the gouge, but it's such a nice block might be worth sleveing? Excited to see how this turns out, I put a 4" Scat crank in my flathead v8 and it works great. Machinist did complain about having to remove a lot of material from the crank to balance it but it turned out nice, no vibration.

[@Sludge73]

Absolutely amazing, the whole thing. I can't wait. Haven't seen one of those flat heads cone apart before. Thanks for showing. Great video.

[@garyhopkins6337]

Good luck with the bore, it's definitely worth trying to save. Great show thanks for sharing.

[@harrymichalski9564]

Looking great Ben.

[@DV-13]

Oh wow, I just binged the whole series about this build and subbed like an hour ago, and here you are with a new vid.

[@AnthonyMolyneux]

Great job as ever and very clearly explained.

[@emmgeevideo]

"Let's not lose this..." Ha ha ha. I would have lost or mixed up half of those parts. Nice video. It's fun to think back to the engineers and mechanics who created that engine almost 100 years ago. They were pretty smart people. We stand on the shoulders of some pretty tall people from the past.

[@joedingo7022]

Nice to see there's some hope that this car can get to retain the original engine, and great to see this project coiming along!

[@chevahaulic]

I dont think I've taken a banger apart yet that has all 4 pistons the same , lol. Great video Ben !

[@mr.hanger]

Yay! A new video of the '28! It's looking so good. I just finished a 51 Ford Jubilee tractor and just love watching this kind of stuff. Keep 'em coming, Friend!

[@modelcars2978]

Thanks for sharing, I can't wait to see if the block is salvageable. 🤟🤠👍

[@renedeblaere9352]

Please stick with the video until the end a lot of us are extremely curious to see how this whole thing works out appreciate it fantastic job.

[@colehara]

I'm used to modern engines. Very interesting to see how the old ones were built.

[@grazynazambeanie5963]

The good old days when you could open the hood and see an engine , unlike to day when the engine is hidden under layers of plastic

[@jonathancunningham8739]

You can remove the plastic covering though once that is gone you can see much more the same with EVs remove the frunk which is easy and you are treated to some awesome engine for ice and plug ins and innards for EVs that one can modify if one has the skill and money.

[@redryderaus]

That cylinder wall damage is possibly casting faults that eventually gave way after hours of running. I've seen it before, had to scrap 3 V8 blocks.

[@poohssmartbrother1146]

For the highbay light, get a "corncob" style LED replacement. It is not to hard to retrofit old high bays to run on the new LEDs. Simply bypass the ballast completely, run 120 straight to the big ole socket (just like a regular lamp) and insert the new LED bulb. While a bit more expensive up front, the LED pulls less power and turns on immediately, instead of waiting forever for the halide to heat up. An electrical supply house will have a better selection of bulbs.

[@rottersgarage]

I actually have one installed in one of my fixtures, it's absolutely useless In here. Seriously. The ceiling is just too dark and high. I could put in a ceiling under the trusses, so many people have told me to do that, but price wise we are talking 25k to do that. More importantly I want the high ceilings, all the cutting and welding makes a lot of smoke and it's nice that it goes up and out the roof vents. Painting the ceiling would help the led light bars I have installed on the model a side of the shop, but those alone with no highbay is still not enough and makes for a cold looking video in my opinion. Maybe I'll do a video on shop lighting one of these days and show everything in detail, see what people suggest. Thanks for the suggestion though! 👍

[@Kybossls]

Enjoyed this video and subbed, I just bought a 31 A-400, 3 weeks ago. I’m learning as I go, picked up a engine from a gentleman that passed away, just to have one to play with.

[@jonprain412]

You're video held by interest every second.. Not so sure I could do it but it sure was very informative

[@duginvirginia5737]

Great video. Glad to see more progress on this project. On the 1930 Model A that I've been working with, I was surprised to see it had replacement pistons that were 0.30 oversized. So, as you mentioned, I'm sure you can rehab this motor and get it repaired. Thank you.

[@MillwalltheCat]

If no one else has commented yet, I suggest that 'S/O' is actually 'O/S' = oversize, so it seems that the engine may have possibly had been re-bored with oversize pistons fitted. It's also possible that the large damaged area in the cylinder is a factory flaw, probably at the casting stage. How it got past inspection is anybody's guess. Good vid, and very interesting, thanks.

[@MillwalltheCat]

@Retired Bore Yes, though as it seems that the pistons are maked over-size, the corresponding bore will be O/S too, necessiitating the insertion of cylinder sleeves. I don't think there would be enough material for additional re-boring.

[@MillwalltheCat]

@Retired Bore I'm not too sure how many cylinders are O/S, but it's interesting that you say that the poor quality of some castings was accepted for what they were at that time. I suppose afterwards, tollerances/quality improved due to the fact lives depended on it during WW2, and these practices were carried over to everyday civilian production, which was not a priority during the 1920's/30's. Interesting stuff, I'm learning a bit from this thread.

[@donaldatkinson7937]

@Retired Bore what's a wet, piston liner?

[@donaldatkinson7937]

@Retired Bore I could use a 55 gallon drum full then.

[@pupaepedorra]

I really want to see how this turns out.

[@robertkrupa2552]

Another great video Ben. Glad to see these updates. Keep up the good work!

[@1coppertop]

Yup workin my way now backwards through the series

[@Bob-gl6cg]

I just did an engine that had two cylinders the very same way as yours. It came from a Model A guy in the S.E. US. [so I have been told] It's mazing what people will do to cut corners.

[@randyriggs5463]

What about sleeving the cylinder? Hate to see this one come to an end. Would like to see more of this car. Nice videos 👍

[@su8pack13]

I just pulled all 4 pistons in a model A engine and all 4 are marked Ford, with an expansion slit on the side below the rings. Nothing is over or under sized so I doubt if it has ever been rebuilt with one of the 4 having a smaller side opening like that one you show.

[@gdawwg1125]

its amazing to me to see how little engine design has changed over the years. up untill the 90's a 4 cylinder engine was still pretty much the same as this.

[@scottmorgan5370]

This is something I would love to do again. I'm getting too old and decrepit for this kinda thing. I did enjoy doing an FE series 390 Ford in the late 80s. By the way, nice job on the video

[@danjohnston3422]

Man, I hope you're right bud. I'd hate to see that old block end up as a boat anchor. The rest of it is so nice. Good luck with it!

[@flyfliker]

I have no idea what condition my 31 coupes engine is inside. She runs good. Watching and learning. Especially interested in inserts vs babbit. Thanks for your content.

[@stevethomas211]

You are doing something that I wish I could do. I would love to learn to overhaul an engine. I could practice on an Air compressor, I think it works the same as an engine. it is one piston compressor.

[@Cat-fy5lw]

Pretty much, except the valves in a compressor are pressure driven by the air inside the cylinder of the compressor. Nothing like the valves in an engine.

[@alanbower9296]

Brilliant video enjoying very interesting

[@matthewridgeway9250]

I reckon that they pulled it apart back in the day and assembled it with the gouge knowing it may be the last work done on the block. Two strokes work with holes in the bore, so, why not?

[@TheOldManAndTheSaw]

Great video. Stupid question; how are the valves adjusted?

[@glorgau]

Nice. Never seen a Model A engine tear down.

[@79tazman]

Damn that is one big tear in the cylinder wall. It looks like a wrist pin had a issue in that hole that's too bad but hope it cleans up because it be a shame to toss that block because of that deep scar

[@jofus3604]

Very well done, Great video! Wonder if the gouge was a flaw in the casting?

[@KB10GL]

Just picked up on this project & it has my interest. If you are going the full pressure lube & slipper bearing mod, then of course an alloy head is a must. I have always wondered if a Model 'B' [1932] cylinder head was interchangeable on the 'A' block as I have always preferred the three bolt water pump. In fact, the 1933/'34 model 'C' engine [ also available to special order in fleet vehicles up to about 1937] was a full pressure engine from new. Your damaged cylinder can be offset bored by a few thou to help ensure that the damage is cleaned up. Any updates on this engine?

[@rottersgarage]

So i have been falling a little behind on Model A videos these days. Now that the season is over here and we are rolling into the winter months, the car and engine will be getting a lot more attention. I've got an engine video coming out here in a day or two, basically just a quick rundown of what i was planning on doing and cleaning the block up for the machine shop. However, i don't think i'm going with the Scat crankshaft in this one any more. What i am going to do is insert bearings in the mains and rods, pressurize just the mains, add counter weights on the Yard Art's stock crankshaft, one piece valve guides and bigger intakes, and of course, an aluminum head! The main reason for going a little cheaper on this one is i actually just picked up a B block, and in the future, that would be the engine i would like to go all out on. Also we did look at cylinder 4 again and yes, offsetting the bore a couple thousandths should definitely take care of any damage. Already got myself a set of .125 over pistons, hopefully machining starts soon. Thanks for your input, should be getting into more on this shortly, also started making parts for a jig to hold the stock crank while welding on the counter weights.

[@colinblick4903]

Fingers crossed on the bore🤞🏽🤞🏽🤞🏽….. let’s hope your calculations are right…… if it’s not can you sleeve it?…. Great work👌🏼

[@jaredbmodels]

Fingers crossed 🤞 buddy!!

[@stevelowndes5803]

It's a great deal harder to measure the inside of a circle than the outside. Aside from that, my instant thought was porosity.

[@gregwddriver]

Exploratory surgery is the fun part of any restoration.

[@tmer3806]

Looking good cuz, channels growing! 15k 🥳🤯🤘

[@skylinefever]

I thought sleeve installation wasn't such a bad thing here. Plus the sleeves are cast from better stuff than the block is. Since the other bores measured ~3.915 it means the engine is already +.040 I'd rather fit a sleeve to the damaged bore, then rebore all cylinders to +.060 The more cylinder wall you have left, the more stable the engine is. It is especially valuable on engines as rough as this.

[@juanbarturen2726]

Hey, I started watching you by pure luck. . Very nice.

[@79tazman]

Do they still make those big fat spark plugs for them engines or do you have to find new ones in NOS or something?

[@nigel900]

Very nice. 👍🏻

[@stanleybest8833]

I'd save that virgin = original dimensions crankshaft. Nickel plate the repaired bores?

[@robt3305]

Thats from a loose wristpin. Had an engine out of a 65 Datsun 410 that did the same thing. Was a pinchbolt retained wristpin, pinchbolt had come loose.

[@baileypatterson6521]

the chunk in the cylinder wall I bet would be your wrist pins sliding in the bore in the piston head and slamming against the cylinder wall causing a knocking sound and most likely the reason the car was parked in the first place!

[@ohger1]

The depth of the gouge is just half of it - to keep the piston centered, the bore-out has to be *twice* the gouge depth..

[@rottersgarage]

Correct. Can also offset the bore a couple thousands though... should clean up...

[@mschiffel1]

I wonder how many times this engine was rebuilt since it came off the assembly line? You can sleeve the bad cylinder and be as good as new.

[@Raul_Gajadhar]

Man your content is awesome! I bet that made a bang when whatever it was happened to cylinder 4. The math looks about right, I hope. But what do I know?

[@jayc4562]

The technology for sleeving has advanced to the point that that is probably no problem. People worked with what they had.

[@DeadReckon]

Ouch, hope everything works out wiht the engine! Ain't seen anything like that since a friend of mine and I tore down a stuck Ford diesel engine out of a tractor once just for giggles. Tractor was junk, transmission had gotten full of water, was rusted solid, all the sheet metal was rusted bad, rear end was froze up, we thought about using the engine for something else but it smoked bad so we took the head off and were like "Oh... Oh no" haha!

[@TSKseattle]

could that cyl 4 damage be flame sprayed and recut?

[@stephenkrzanowski]

Looks like you'll be safe with the 4" bore. Math seems good. Is it possible to bore over 4"?

[@rottersgarage]

They claim 4" is up there, some people will even argue that's kind of extreme on the forums, but then again there are older guys on there saying the used to punch race motors up to 4.080... getting pretty thin at that point! But they claimed they held up good.

[@stephenkrzanowski]

@@rottersgarage If that's true an extra 80 thou is a bunch! All said, don't see you needing a new block. Good luck!

[@malcolmirving9485]

Rocker box? "We" pulled the pistons out?

[@DaytonaRoadster]

Glad you kept that engine, it clearly wanted to live. To me, its worth restoring. But damn that sucks about that hole

[@bryanh1944FBH]

I see damage like this in old tractors and always try to imagine the stress most of the original operators had. Most were poor and could not afford proper fixes. In the case of tractors, they generally needed the tractor running immediately. So, they did what they had to do, maybe working from their dirt floor in the shop after the cows were milked and move on. In this case, this damage is fortunately lower down in the wall and probably didn't blow by too bad, So, the original owners most likely could only afford to change just the single piston & rod and live with what they had.

[@andrewcarrillo4814]

If you bore out the cylinder and remove 42.5 thousandths of an inch from the radius, will you have to replace the pistons to a slightly larger size to keep compression?

[@rottersgarage]

Correct, oversize piston...

[@kristalinos]

I just admire you.

[@DohosanV]

Did you account for the .041 that's going to have to come off the other side of the cylinder won't you have to remove .082 to clean it up?

[@rottersgarage]

Yep, sure did, should clean up accounting for material off both sides 👍

[@DohosanV]

@@rottersgarage outstanding

[@TronBons]

Imagine working on a year 2020 motor in 94yrs... bolts would probably disintegrate when touching them.

[@ModelARickLasCruces]

Where can I get one of those stud removers? Looks like it works much better than mine!

[@rottersgarage]

This is the one I have! Thanks for watching! www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performance+Products/555/W83203/10002/-1?gclid=Cj0KCQjwl8anBhCFARIsAKbbpyRKhXXS9GXSOrUEDEMGQ8X0AP5DbF6PVi7VS81r6-qaa4ZamAvqpNwaAp77EALw_wcBwww.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performance+Products/555/W83203/10002/-1?gclid=Cj0KCQjwl8anBhCFARIsAKbbpyRKhXXS9GXSOrUEDEMGQ8X0AP5DbF6PVi7VS81r6-qaa4ZamAvqpNwaAp77EALw_wcB

[@smasica]

Would there be any practical/feasible way to fill a gouge like that with some kind of weld? Hey, I'm not a mechanic or welder, so you experts cut me some slack and just the explain why or why not, please.

[@jacquespoirier9071]

it is doable but not praxctical, any welding causes distorsion so the block will need to be completely remachined to take account of that weld, sleeving is a better way to repair things and the net benefit is a better metallurgy that the original one that was used on these blocks.

[@dusterowner9978]

can you sleeve the cylinder oe is it worth it ?

[@TestECull]

25:34 Even if it's 45 thou deep itt'l run just fine. The biggest concern here is whether or not it breached into the cooling jacket IMO.

[@mafcawebmaster4237]

Curious: what's the serial number on the left side of the block above the water inlet? I'm guessing that's an early block.

[@rottersgarage]

Well unfortunately the number on the yard art model A's block was ground off years ago with a pretty aggressive grinder wheel and restamped with the number 2062149. The original number was completely removed years ago. Now a week or two ago i picked up another model A engine that interestingly enough was in a 32 Ford Coupe. And its not a B block. This guy i got it from picked up this awesome 32 that years ago someone started putting a flathead v8 in, converting to juice brakes, basically hot rodding it. Anyways, the banger i got from him was not a B block, but an A engine with the B intake and exhaust manifolds, later cable pull starter, and B clutch setup. Maybe they blew the B block up and swapped in a A? Pretty cool deal though. Anyhow i have the engine here, original number is below a restamp, *A1632037* is the factory stamping, 2841934 was stamped over the top. From what i looked up it should be a May 5, 1929 engine..... And unfortunately we will never know the original number for the one i took apart in this video....

[@mafcawebmaster4237]

@@rottersgarage That A engine Engine #1632037 was made on May 25, 1929 - good idea to replace a bad "B" engine with a good used "A" engine - the fit is about the same.

[@rottersgarage]

@@mafcawebmaster4237 yes, 25th, I said 5th....

[@pappabob29]

You may be way past this by now but I would agree with "Skylinefever" below and would certainly favor a sleeve in #4 rather than take out so much material from all the other cylinders. You have three cylinders with only .040 removed from their original size. 3.915 is exactly .040 over with nothing for clearance beyond .040. Those cylinders may take a hone and provide clearance for new .040 pistons if you sleeve #4 and bore to match. Sure seems like a much more "sustaining" approach. Obviously, totally your decision !!!

[@everything_restoration_rev5901]

What stud extractor are you using

[@rottersgarage]

I got it from a salesman that used to stop at the shop. I think he was from Kimball's Midwest.... However, i just saw they have the same one in the tool isle at Oreilly's.... It does work good, basically just a reverse chuck with an aggressive set of teeth...

[@jayborchardt4742]

I have an idea, maybe the block had a casting defect and it chunked out at some point and time?

[@Sergio_Hattifnatt]

My guess, that the person, who replace the Piston No 4, even didn't take a look inside the cylinder itself. Just throw away damaged piston, put in the new one, even not the same type, and bolt it back together, fast and simple. I just can not explain it in different way...

[@bryce1916]

You can have liners installed to fix cylinders.

[@juanbarturen2726]

Is this the same engine you sanded the caps , etc. Did you make it to the races?.

[@rottersgarage]

No, this is the original out of the Yard Art coupe. The engine that was on the 29 chassis I bought for the banger roadster was the one I clearanced the rod caps on. That engine never came out of the chassis, did all the engine work in the car...

[@rottersgarage]

And yes, I made it to the races. Next video. 👍

[@geneard639]

Old damage, ignore the gouge or weld it up, machine it, or sleeve it. It worked before with that damage.

[@kirbyhans5261]

Thank you for saying engine and not " motor" . Thanks for knowing how to wear your hat too.....

[@snicks50]

It can be bore and sleeved. Looks like a good block to me.

[@tribulation138]

Looks like four Briggs and Stratton blocks molded together.

[@Cat-fy5lw]

Flathead was a cheap and simple design for a car engine back in the day. Only the most expensive cars had OHV/OHC engines back when this Model A was built.

[@nescobaraloplop9468]

Newbie question: Would a gouge that big make the car burn a lot of oil? How bad? Would you leave a blue smoke trail?

[@deanjernstrom3760]

So when you finish that motor,Ill expect to see you in N.H. Awesome information Obviously not your 1st time disassembling an A engine.If I only had the knowledge to do so.Keep us informed on your progress.

[@davepepin8301]

Hi...what's up with the Model A flathead?

[@dantealejandropresa8914]

Any cylinder head's plans???

[@wandellpassah8086]

Love to see restoration of antique vehicles. Gone are those days when sleeving , Valves resetting, gearboxes made brand new, crown resetting, master wheel cylinders properly checked before discarding, odometer with trip meter for war vehicle the black out lights to camouflage oft air strikes etc.Voltage and current Regulator Autolite and Delco Remy lasting for century. Today sad to see the use and throw takes upper hand.Worst in some countries the policy of scrapping on age basis has devastated the poors. Pollution test with Catalytic converter for emission norms turn useless. It is heartening to discover Catalytic converter has kilometres guarantee .If the guarantee is 2 lakh km car owners are saved from having to purchase new vehicle.not affordable by middle class

[@danmccarthy206]

The damage in cylinder 4 looks like a casting defect not something that happened when you ran it. I bet it was there from the factory.

[@Muscleupsanddangles]

Those engines were famous for oil starvation when running on a slope (hills). I would guess sometime in deep history it threw a rod and gouged that bore. Why it was reassembled so, with that kind of danage is anyone's guess. It may have been repairedon the side of the road from underneath and they just sdid screw it. Times were different

[@kailuagarage]

Interesting - a 5.7 gen 3 hemi has a 3.917 bore too (100.50 mm).

[@thomasstuart6861]

I've seen guys in India weld a cast iron block. They heat the entire block up red hot and then weld it and machine it.

[@michaellong6052]

Just get the engine rebuilt get the mains and the rods inserted and put sleeves in the cylinders

[@pmfx65]

What about welding the cylinder wall and boring it afterwards? I think there are specialists that can laser weld that ...