Display to Print Color Matching, the missing part in the equation, Lighting!

[@markrigg6623]

This aspect of colour matching, as well as the other biggie of comparing transmitted light to reflected light, were the things that had me well and truly down the rabbit hole for my first few years of digital printing. But once I took these into account with my worklow and judgement of the results, I could see the light at the end of the rabbit hole. This relatively simple vid will save a lot of people an awful lot of frustration. 👏👍

[@ArtIsRight]

And time going down the rabbit hole ;)

[@sammyconductor8896]

every single episode simply a pleasure! thank you for the continuous effort for the real picture!

[@ArtIsRight]

Thank you!

[@kubat1987]

This video indirectly raises an interesting question: What are the best, safest calibration settings if what I sell are print-ready files - rather than physical prints - and so I have no control over the printing process or the lighting conditions my creations will be watched in, as it's all up to the client? After watching many of your tutorials - and reading Eizo's manual - I settled for D65 and 80cd/m2, as well as a standard tonal response curve and a native contrast ratio (X-Rite i1 Display Pro Plus + i1 Profiler/CC Profiler). On an unrelated note: It would be very interesting to see a video on DisplayCAL and how it compers to CC Profiler.

[@ArtIsRight]

The setting that you have is best. And like you said you can't control who prints the image which is hard because each lab has their own color response that varies.

[@davidromano2421]

I use the Cree 100 w 5000 K bulb and find it pretty good. My proofing area could probably use a 2nd one. The thing is though, that in our homes the color temperatures are all over the place. Most of my interior lights are about 3300 K, but then there's windows letting daylight in which varies over the course of the day, and reflecting off my yellowish walls and my warm orange hard wood floors, etc.

[@ArtIsRight]

My point exactly that I made in the video.

[@kuau714]

Another great video Art, I believe the term that is not used very much is

[@ArtIsRight]

Thank you! and yes not used very much or at all ;)

[@byoregon1]

Really interesting video, Art. You’re right, light color in an under-discussed variable. I’m wondering why that LED light box performed so badly at 5000K if it’s CRI score was so high. Thanks for this one!

[@ArtIsRight]

CRI changes with color temp, I am trying to get in a Color Spectrophotometer in the studio to test that light, so I will keep you posted. The problem with light source that changes color temperature is that most manufacturer don't tell you the CRI at all color range, just some or just don't disclosed them.

[@byoregon1]

@@ArtIsRight Got it. I didn’t even know light bulbs had CRI values before your video. Now I’m going to spit on any I see in the home store with scores less than 90! 🙂

[@ArtIsRight]

Every light bulb can be rated or measured for a CRI. There are also other CRI variation that are better for certain applications as well, such as TLCI, TM-30, or SSI ;)

[@fireice2585]

The skepticism I have with these LED light box is that we have no idea if they're speaking the truth about its CRI. I have look through other light boxes and saw review that complains about the CRI being 80 instead of the stated 95.

[@ArtIsRight]

CRI Is one metric that shows an accurate representation at one color, temp and luminance. For the most part I find that manufacturer are accurate but they don't specify the temp and luminance that they test it at, which is an issue.

[@chiefgrowler]

That's great Art - I'm learning so much from you. Thanks for great content delivered in an easy to understand format. Will you be doing a video on loading profiles from manufacturers like Epson as we have been discussing?

[@ArtIsRight]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/q4XSdq2jr9qNeLc

[@cindymayes6105]

Hi Art-I’m hoping you can help me figure out a printing problem. I have the Ben QSW 240 running on a Mac pro 2019 and calibrated with a spyder pro with settings according to your suggestions in panel native. I did some test prints with a print lab and my photos came out much darker compared to the monitor and some of the colors look muted or dull, especially oranges/yellows. the print lab told me I need to change my monitor brightness but I already have it at candela 80. She also suggested changing the gamut to 5500 instead of 6500 which she thinks will help with the color discrepancy. I’m wandering if I have the black point wrong. I have it a .5 nits as per your suggestion for spyder pro. I’m lost what to do as I calibrated to your video suggestions.

[@ArtIsRight]

This has nothing to do with black point, what light are you using to view your print? That is the variable that is not mentioned or talked about. Also changing the color temperature to D55 from D65 might or might not help especially if you light source is off. So it comes back to viewing light source. Let me know and we'll go from here.

[@cindymayes6105]

@@ArtIsRight oh thank you so much for your quick reply. You are awesome. I’m starting a pet photography business and am pulling my hair out with not being able to match my prints to my perfectly edited photos. 😬😫 I edit in a room with 5000 k lightbulbs and view the photos under the same lighting in the same room and have a viewing lamp with same light. But the blacks seem off in all of the prints from this particular lab. They all look darker and muted somehow. the more colourful ones also more muted almost like the white balance is off. The only one that looks close is one that doesn’t have a lot of color in it. Also I tried recalibration awhile back to see the difference between 80 and 100 and 120 luminance and saw no difference in brightness on my monitor between the 3 different ones. Is that normal? Shouldn’t there be a slight difference in brightness at least? I’m wandering if something isn’t calibrating right. 🤷🏻‍♀️ although I always get a report that says pass. But I have no idea how to read those validation reports in depth and accurately. I tried to recalibrate at D50. There is no D55 option? I’m using version 1:315. I don’t see a whole lot of difference between that and D65… how do I get my prints to match what I see on my monitor. I can’t figure out what to change in my calibration settings.

[@ArtIsRight]

Cindy, apologies for the delay getting back, youtube flagged the comment and it just showed it to me. dm me on fb page or insta and we'll go from here

[@PLANETWATERMELON]

Always great content. What about lighting for the whole room while editing photos for and not for print?

[@ArtIsRight]

Thank you. What I did with my room is just put in day light bulbs with high CRI and use that for everything. I got dimmable ones this way can change the intensity.

[@PLANETWATERMELON]

@@ArtIsRight thanks. Daylight is 5600k?

[@ArtIsRight]

Daylight is 5500-6500K

[@DIGI_ART_INDIA]

Sir i have ordered color munki Display calibrater for benq bl2420pt is this good for me ? I'm photo editor

[@ArtIsRight]

Color Munki has been discontinued for sometime now in all countries and territories. So you might be getting really old stock. The new device is named ColorChecker Display and is part of Calibrite Products Portfolio, find out more here. kzbin.info/www/bejne/rZDYg3xrptB1oqM If at any point you will step into Pro Hardware Calibrated Display then it is better to get the ColorChecker Display Pro or Pro Plus.

[@DIGI_ART_INDIA]

@@ArtIsRightNewver version Not available in india so sad for us🙄

[@ArtIsRight]

You should be able to get the X-Rite one. ColorMunki is discontinued for more than 3-4 years now.

[@byoregon1]

Hey Art, I know this isn't a tech support channel, but do you know offhand what the Adobe RGB coverage % is on the latest iMac Retina 5K display? I can't seem to find an authoritative answer on the Google machine. I'm wondering if I should be considering a display with better coverage.

[@ArtIsRight]

about 80% If you want higher Adobe RGB you would be looking at Pro Photography displays.

[@byoregon1]

@@ArtIsRight Thanks. I have been getting fussier with my soft-proofing. Considering of of those BenQ displayed you’ve looked at in the past.

[@ArtIsRight]

Yes I would look at the SW line, any of them will!

[@mejislasher]

Art, do i need to calibrate my BenQ SW271C? Since these monitors come precalibrated with a calibration report, why should i calibrate it again?

[@ArtIsRight]

You should, you'll find the reason why here kzbin.info/www/bejne/n3zJp5WYirB0bbc and here kzbin.info/www/bejne/f6HYkplrrq2lpck

[@mejislasher]

@@ArtIsRight thank you

[@ArtIsRight]

👍🏼

[@danielbarrettphotography]

Hi Art, I believe BenQ themselves do a light strip that attaches to the top of their photography monitors. I have a SW270c myself. Would you recommend this?

[@ArtIsRight]

Yes it is Called a light bar, its intended use is not for this purpose and you can't really go in and dial the exact Kelvin color temp, so that is an issue. Nor do they guarantee any CRI value.