DIY 3-Way Switch GE / Leviton Smart Switch Installation (Z-Wave)

[@suzithewitch]

6 years later and this video is still gold! After my son and I installed our first set of smart switches (Enbrighten) we moved on to tackling a three way (one of which is in a double gang) and totally did *not* nail it :) This video solved our problem in one viewing! Thank you so much for explaining this so well and being detailed and clear enough that we were able to figure out our "mess of wires" :)

[@DIYSmartHomeGuy1]

Thank you!

[@HoolieWho]

I watched a few confusing videos posted by others before I discovered this one, and I have to say yours was the easiest to follow and was to the point. Thank you for this video! I almost pulled my hair out with the others!

[@PhysicsDude55]

Great video as always, John. I'm impressed that you built an entire mock setup to help demonstrate how 3-way switches work, and how they're wired. One thing I'll add, almost every 3-way switch I've taken apart (especially in older homes) did NOT use 14/3 with a red wire. Usually they use a 14/2, using the black and white as travelers, or use 2 black wires as travelers. I also used to work as a commercial electrician while I was in college, and will tell you that there's no real wire color standard for switch legs and travelers, electricians will use whatever wire they have at their disposal, so its important to take a close look at the existing 3-way switch and test the wires the way you showed.

[@traconjohn809]

If watched a number of videos on how to wire the GE Z wave switch. This one has been the best one. Easy to follow instructions, and the diagram of the wiring was extremely beneficial. Once I saw that diagram, everything made sense.

[@sonofcold]

Thank you for this video, I did a lot of "sweat and tears" untill i saw this video. Your explanation and illustrations got me from confused to fully grasping the concept. Subbed and Liked. Thanks again!

[@DIYSmartHomeGuy1]

Thanks for the feedback. That's why I started this channel. Glad it helped! Cheers

[@danmayer9094]

THANK YOU! I nearly gave up several times before finding this video and going to your website and looking at the solutions matrix. I spent a long time staring those diagrams and pulling out wire from my gang boxes, and I finally figured out that my new home was wired up as method 9(a), but with the white and black wires to the 2nd wall box swapped. After that, it was a cinch! (Well, no worse than normal work trying to undo, tie in, and close up a crowded box) Rocking and rolling on the Leviton DW6HD + matching remote. Wish it had come with extra wires, but luckily I had a spare stretch of 12/2 from some long-forgotten project to cannibalize.

[@Ads7903]

Thankful you posted this. Had no luck but now understand that these are not your typical operating switches. Thanks again! Keep up the great videos!

[@deanrhodenizer938]

For these particular GE switches there is a similar slot (a bit less visible) for the ground connection as is used for the other terminals. Hence there is no need to use a wire loop to attach the ground connection. Not a big deal but it makes the work go easier and faster. Not sure if someone else already mentioned this. One other thing, there are several ways that three way switches can be wired. You have shown the simplest case - power arrives at switch box 1, 3 conductor wire runs between switch boxes 1 and 2. Light is fed from switch box 2. Case 2 - Power at switch box 1, light feeds from switch box 1. A piece of 3 conductor wire runs between switch boxes 1 and 2 - all hot wires. Do able but the wires running to switch box 2 need to be re-purposed to get a neutral there. This wiring configuration is in common use. In many jurisdictions the white wire between the switch boxes must be marked as a hot wire. Case 3 - Power to the light socket, switch leg (two conductors - both hot) runs to switch box 1 and a piece of three conductor runs between switch boxes 1 and 2. Not do able - no neutral available in the switch boxes. This is an uncommon configuration. It usually happens during renovations when a single switch is expanded into a three-way switching arrangement.

[@KyleFalconer1]

Great video! The diagrams showing how the traveler wire works with the original dumb switches are really helpful!

[@DIYSmartHomeGuy1]

Hi Kyle Falconer, glad I could help. Thanks for watching! Cheers

[@Designinsidechicago]

Thanks for the great tips! The Wink2 instructions simply state to press the button once. Pressing it multiple times to de-register and register the device worked like a charm!

[@petebuka]

Thank you for all of your Videos John. I can't believe how easy it is to create a smart home. I am using alot of your products you showed us. You have cleared up a lot of questions I had. Thanks Working Like A Champ!

[@alexmartinez5011]

Thank you so much! I've always been confused by these. Your diagrams explained it perfectly! Will save me a lot of money in electrician bills!

[@DIYSmartHomeGuy1]

Hi Alex Martinez, glad I could help. Thanks for watching! Cheers

[@VidJunkie63]

Thank you, John! I have embarked on a journey to replace my existing X-10 automation devices and with Z-Wave devices. Thank you for your Channel! I have a 3-way switch installation that shares a gang box with two different lighting circuits. Worse (in my opinion), is on a different breaker and powers two different overhead fluorescent lights. The wiring in those boxes is a complete mess to my layman's eyes - and I remember having the same anxiety when putting in the X-10 switches years ago. Fast forward, after watching this video three times, I was able to understand how the switches should be wired. While the requirement of the neutral line for the GE switches may be a problem for older homes, it wasn't for me, and once I understood the proper schematic for the wiring, it actually made things very easy. Again, thank you very much for making this video and sharing your experiences.

[@biggiehorn]

Much appreciated on the how to. I’ve been in the smart home game for quite some time, but we just moved and our new place is loaded with 3 way switches. This made it a breeze. Keep up the awesome content.

[@coreymalczewski3222]

The diagrams really helped to internalize the steps. Thank you!

[@kcomber7708]

Thank you for this. I have aluminum wiring where they used one set of romex for the traveler wires. I used your advise to determine the hot and load. I then drew out each feed to each box and switch then how the smart switch wires. Now my second smart swithc also had all four wires, used a special wire nuts with a conductive paste inside for possible expansion and contraction on the AL.

[@texasmotorcyclerideradventures]

Thank you for taking the time to explain this. I am in the process of adding theses to my house and needed the help.

[@shadow-wulf]

excellent video, understanding that this isn't a typical 3 way switch goes a long way to preventing confusion. i would have liked to see you finish off the wiring, but i understand you may have had to trim for time. now to go and do my Levitron version and hope i don't burn down the house

[@DIYSmartHomeGuy1]

Hi Shadow Wulf, thanks for reaching out. This was an older video and your concern is well noted. The best source of information for three and four way switches is on my website. There are several different methods in which your original circuit could have been wired, including Leviton, so you'll need to start there. Again, it's all on my website. azhb.com/how-to/three-way-switch-how-to/ If you're still having problems, check out my Facebook Group. It's an easier place for me or other to lend a hand. facebook.com/groups/733842787140470/ Cheers

[@miss2doggies]

Awesome video! About to do my Leviton smart dimmer but 2 questions .... 1) I have 3 switches for my recessed lights. Does it matter which end of the circuit I put the Smart switch on? 2) Do I need to replace the other 2 with add ons or can I leave them as dumb switches? Thank you!

[@savvyrb]

Great video. Looks like this is just what I needed. Love the demonstration wall!

[@DIYSmartHomeGuy1]

Glad it was helpful!

[@robclayburn356]

I wish this video was available when i installed my switches. The only criticism I have is the ground terminal has a push in hole and you don't really need to loop it. That is just personal preference though. Really like the animation showing how traditional 3 way switches work.

[@cjhudson101]

Another thing. On the ground wire for the switch, there is a hole that you can insert the ground wire into and then tighten down the screw as well. That's how I wired mine.

[@texasmotorcyclerideradventures]

I was thinking the same thing. Great vid though!

[@lauriebak]

Thank you for making this video. It was so easy to follow. We successfully installed our first smart switches today, which happened to be a 3-way set up. Your video guided us right through to a successful installation. We’ll be installing another 3-way later today!

[@jamesm7346]

Thanks John great explanation good job

[@sassysmoker7553]

Awesome DYI!!!!!! I like the part when Alexa came on. Of course that's a thing of technology for the future. I guess you just wanted to be part of the video and not get left out.

[@MarkMagnani]

Thanks for the great video! Wondering if you could tell me what would happen if you installed only the master switch, but left a standard ‘dumb’ switch as the secondary on the circuit. My intent is to use an old style (newly made) pushbutton switch to maintain the appearance of my old home, and hide the smart switch. This way I can use Alexa to control the lights while maintaining the classic appearance.

[@pawelgazda5761]

asking myself the same question

[@kexin1000]

Thank you so much to make this clear!

[@lmSteveo]

I ended up look at your Fb and I got it ! It works ! Keep up the great work !

[@ahmedagbabiaka]

for construction without traveler wires, you can make a fake 3-way switch by using your home automation software (homeseer, smartthings, wink, stringify, etc). so for instance, in homeseer i can make an event to turn the light on or off that has conditions that account for both switch positions.

[@davidgutierrez5717]

Your channel is amazing!! I really enjoy watching all your reviews and DIYs. You have motivated me to turn my house into a smart house. I plan on starting with replacing all my light and fan switches in the house to smart switches. Based on your experience which brand do you recommend. Thank you.

[@CharlesVincentJr]

I want to echo steven h comment. If you do not have access to the white neutral wire .. look into the lutron caseta . It is what john stone used in his bar ( i think). He has reviewed it but has not done an install video on it to show not needing neutral wire. The lutron instructions however show not using neutral wire. ( prior model, lutron maestro did call for neutral wire, like GE). Thank you john for your informative videos

[@CharlesVincentJr]

thanks John - 1) I look forward to a dedicated video on your bar switch install - as it does look to have have simpler installation procedure than GE. I hope it also includes the dimming Pico Remote wall install. I would also be interested in seeing if you find any noticeable difference in responsiveness in GE, Lutron or Leviton. 2) As to your non dimming switch desire... I have not tried, but Lutron web site shows, Lutron PD-5WS-DV, to be an in wall Caseta wireless Paddle switch that does not require a neutral wire. It can be used as a simple single switch or installed in a 3- way configuration with a non dimmable pico remote # PJ2-2B. Remote can be installed in wall as a secondary paddle switch (with same bracket kit as for dimmer, PICO-WBX-ADAPT) or used as a portable remote. 3) To all, Upon further investigation, If your situation dictates use of a neutral wire..Caseta looks to have products for that too in PRO version that requires neutral wire, but in my quick search they seem notably more expensive than GE or Leviton.

[@manolep]

Does the GE add on switch support dimming as well if I press and hold the switch similar to the main unit? I noticed the add ons don’t have LEDs to indicate dim level.

[@98_ksxj]

Very nice video. 1 Question. I have the add-on switch but it only works while I have the button pressed on the add-on switch. So it will turn the light on or the light off while I pressing the button. When I let go it turns the light back on or off depending on what the master switch was set at.

[@NickNardone]

Incredible, thank you for the wiring guide. I never knew how 3-way circuits work!

[@Ryambao128]

Such a great video. Got everything hooked up in the first box, but I don’t have two black wires to splice together in the second box. There’s only one black wire with nowhere to plug. I tried plugging it in with the neutral, and all that does is make the switch go on and off repeatedly. Any idea what the setup might be for this type of wiring?

[@Ryambao128]

DIY Smart Home Guy Thanks for the quick reply. The switch I took out was a three way switch. In that box, there are 4 wires: black, red, white and ground. I just couldnt get the wiring to work in any configuration, so took the light fixture down. Turns out that power is coming from the wires going to the light, and then out to the switches. Looked at the pictures on your site with the different “3way” wiring options, and still couldnt figure out how to run the GE smart switches. Ended up replacing the old switches for now, and will try again some other time. Spent too much time the other day trying to get it to work, that I had to just walk away...

[@altitudeexplorationphotogr63]

have a minoston smart dimmer switch. Ms11z model. They have the same 4 screws and are labled traveler, line, neutral, and load.

[@markhaskins9479]

Which software program do you use for your interactive wiring diagrams?

[@galil187]

great videos... what would be the benefit of doing this versus just replacing the bulbs to smart bulbs?

[@galil187]

John Stone I'm comfortable wiring but I want to be able to change colors .. so I'm not sure which is a better option ?

[@galil187]

John Stone great I'm looking into the osram recessed downlights. thank you for your insight you da man!!!

[@eduardsimkhayev9230]

Hi, great video. i have a question on GE smart switch that i have installed at home. It was working for over a year and now stopped working - does not turn on the light manually or through my Smart wink. I was hoping you can suggest what to do? Thank you.

[@edhobelman6163]

Great video thanks. But I do have one question. I have a light with 3 switches do I just add a second remote switch.

[@DavidNewkirk]

John I am just getting started on my smart home. Got Ecco, Hook, RF switch plugs (connected to Alexia via the Hook) and now looking to go the next level. assume that would be a smart hub. Seems that the Samsung Smart Things is more popular then Wink. If you were starting over would you pick Wink again? what makes it better then Smart Things if you say yes to previous question.

[@kellihendrix2230]

I found when I didn't have all the proper wires at one end, the previous job wasn't done properly. The wiring wasn't pulled all the way from one switch to the other

[@FrankieKennethL]

Hello. How does the 4 way setup change this? How do we get a 4 prong smart switch? Or does it simply just use One Ore add on on the load middle run?

[@geektarded]

Thank you for these great videos. What covers are you using for the GE switches?

[@official_markmywords]

Hi John, With the recent news of Quirky's Bankruptcy filing, I was wondering what your thoughts were on how that may effect the support of the Wink Hub, and/or if you think I should instead, consider using the SmartThings Hub for my home control clients?

[@stillirise85O]

quick question, I'm finally going to jump into the smart home automation, I prefer to use the smart switch to control my lights my regular LED lights. do I need to buy the GE dimmable smart switch or just the regular GE smart switch in order to be able to dim my regular LED lights through echo. thanks

[@OsnielCapote]

Hello Thank you for the instructional video I very much appreciate it. I would like to know if is possible to wire a smart 3 way switch for the main line and for the load use a regular 3 way switch from home depot? Thank you for your help in advance

[@OsnielCapote]

Thank you very much. I bought the addon switch GE Add-On Switch for GE Z-Wave 12723. I hope it works . thanks again

[@alecreg]

great video! with these smart 3 way switches can you have one smart and one "dumb switch"? or do both need to be smart switches?

[@ErikaStew]

Me again! Do you have any videos that show how to use smart switches in a 4-way setup? I'm not sure what to do with the 4-way switch box in between the two 3-way switches. Thanks!

[@andymoore3081]

Can you show the diagram for a fan with the lights 3 way and the fan itself only has one switch. Looks like they used the neutral as a traveler.

[@pkdaylu]

Great, great video. Worked like a charm. I used this for the Jasco 45709 Smart Switch and the 45710 add-on switch, which I assume is identical to the GE product. Thanks!

[@ClayLud]

I’ve been trying to install a levitan 3way smart witch and it been a huge pain. There seems to be a bunch of different types, some for diff types of lights) all with tiny long model numbers that do not work together. Why don’t they sell them as a 2 unit package to eliminate confusion. The guy I’m doing this for has ordered them all separately. He’s got the wrong ones like 3 times.

[@albertcharles5767]

what about if you dont have a traveler wire? do you have a video that covers that? i have black, white and ground in both boxes and light fixture

[@caravellaguitars8932]

Quick question, as for me it is not clear... If I use a wifi switch as part of a 3way switch circuit. (i have 3 regular switches right now controlling a light) can I just change one to a WiFi switch? and if so does it matter which one i switch? I have a Levtion Decora WiFi switch to install.

[@kidbodom]

Hey John does your dimer switches work well with diming led bulbs and could you do a video on it? thanks

[@Sunday1290]

When hooking up multiple switches. Can athe neutral wires for each switch be combined in the same wire nut?

[@BrazucaNY]

@John Stone I just found your channel. I just loved it. I am buying a house and I want to install some of that stuff in my house but how should I start with the Wink ? What else i should get ?

[@Soodey]

If you don't have a neutral wire your best bet is a Lutron Caseta Dimmer switch and pico remote. You can wall mount the pico remote with a separate bracket. You'd just want to cap off the wires behind the pico remote. Switch and Pico Remote: www.amazon.com/Lutron-Wireless-600-watt-150-watt-Multi-Location/dp/B00JJY0S4G Bracket: www.amazon.com/Lutron-PICO-WBX-ADAPT-Pico-Wallplate-Bracket/dp/B00JZRAFEA/

[@PhysicsDude55]

There's a deep dark secret about how to obtain a neutral wire when there isn't one in the box.... you can use the ground wire. If you look in your electrical panel (in a standard 240V split phase residential setup) the white neutral wires and ground wires are both grounded to the same exact bus bar. Both wires essentially are the same. Electrically, your neutral IS a ground wire, and the bare copper ground wire is basically a redundant ground. Yes, its against code to use the ground as a neutral, and legally I'll tell you to never do it, etc. But, it does work.

[@NorseRanger]

The bare ground and white neutral are NOT the same wire. The bare ground is a non current carrying conductor. If you use your ground as a neutral there is the risk of you getting electrocuted if you lose that path back to the panel and you touch anything grounded in the house(fridge door, washer, dryer, etc), the path will go through you and you will get shocked.

[@PhysicsDude55]

Technically, you're kind of right, although a smart wallswitch draws almost no power, probably less than a watt, and will not cause any hazardous voltage or current on the ground wire. The neutral hooked to the smart switch doesn't carry the current that goes to the load. You would almost definitely not get electrocuted even if there was some catastrophic event where there was voltage on your ground. You'd have to both touch something "grounded" (fridge, washer, dryer, etc.) AND a real earth ground. This scenario would basically never happen inside a house. I once was changing a wall switch in my house to a dimmer switch, and had to determine which leg was hot and which was switch leg. Being impatient, I just touched both wires one at a time with the backside of my hand to see which one shocked me (stupid, I know). When I deliberately touched the hot wire, it wouldn't shock me, and I couldn't even feel any voltage on it, because I wasn't grounded. Even if you somehow got 120v on your ground circuit, you probably wouldn't shock yourself on grounded objects. Still, you're technically basically correct, and using the ground as a current carrying wire is NOT safe and NOT something you should do. .... but it would definitely work and would be totally safe. But don't do it. ;-)

[@RyanDurbin10]

Steven Horvat I was going to say the same thing. just bought a house and replaced all the light switches with lutron Caseta and not only got an epic setup with home automation switches but I also saved a ton on money on switches. I she 3 3-way switches and 1 4-way switch. saved about $250...

[@RyanDurbin10]

John Stone this was a pain for me. bought all Caseta dimmers and LEDs. it is really tough to find LEDs and dimmers that work together but I'm so happy I did!

[@CollinEichinger0221]

Could you do a video of a four-way switch? I have a light upstairs on our loft with two switches upstairs and one downstairs and don't know how I would go about doing this.

[@cjhudson101]

John, the diagram you created is FANTASTIC! Now... When you're in my situation, is it still the same concept? I have a stairway/hall light that is on 4 switches... One switch becomes the master switch, the other three are add on switches which are all just ground/neutral/traveler?

[@stephenhlee11]

Do you have a how to video on a 4 way switch install?

[@ErikaStew]

John, I have some plates that have three switches. One controls the light, one controls the fan and the third controls an outlet. What kind of smart switch do I use to replace these?

[@the_lost_one93]

If i purchase the smart switch will I also need to purchase the smart add on switch and replace my current add on switch? Or can I get by with just the smart switch?

[@randybarnhart6976]

Question: do you have to use two smart switches in this installation? Could you just use one smart switch and leave the other dumb switch in place? Nice video by the way. Thanks!

[@DIYSmartHomeGuy1]

It depends on the brand of switch. Zooz and Inovelli make models that can be configured with the existing remote switch. However most others do not and require the add-on switch.

[@randybarnhart6976]

Thank you so much for the reply and information@@DIYSmartHomeGuy1

[@rogerrabbit1934]

Do you need to have 1 smart switch and 1 dumb switch or do they both have to be smart switches ?

[@jimmyfox231]

For a 3 way switch could you install 2 smart switches? This way they could both be controlled by your phone or physically?

[@guillermoperez71]

Can you disable the LED blue light? when the switch is off?

[@jaroldacosta]

Maybe this is beyond my knowledge on 3 way smart switches, but for some reason (I connected mine same way you did in your video) when I press ON/OFF in then Main smart switch everything works fine, but when I press the ADD-ON -if lights are ON, then they go OFF then turn back ON-, then if light are OFF when I press the ADD-ON lights go ON then turn immediately OFF. Any help is very welcome at this point. I am using GE Add-on 12723 and Smartswitch GE 40792

[@skepsmart2667]

Hey John, what are some of the better z-wave capable 3-way dimmer switches?

[@Wolftec3]

Great Video thanks for it ...I have one question - why is there such a delay when you turn them on and off?

[@Wolftec3]

My delay was I had to replace a second switch (not a dimmer) on my 3way. The first 3 way dimmer was replaced because it did not support led Now it;s fast

[@mikebennett9317]

Richard Humphrey are you saying you replaced a zwave 3 way dimmer for a non-dimmer switch and it resolved the delay? I’m finally getting around to installing some 3 way GE smart switches and already bought them but after seeing the delay I’m second guessing the purchase.

[@Wolftec3]

Hi Mike, Sorry for the confusion....My original 3 way setup was one switch with on/off and the other switch was on/off with dimmer. When I just switched the bulbs for LED the lighting went crazy with flickering. Talking to an Electrician he said my dimmer didn't support LED lights. He made no mention of the simple on/off switch. So I then switched out my dimmer. ( should say had the electrician with a leviton dimmer switch. This switch was google home and alexia aware. So you can control it with either or with leviton app. After the Electrician did the job he came up and said it was complete... I assumed he tested it. Also I required a neutral wire for the new switches....nothing straight forward about switching them. I don't go down stairs much. Later in the week I went down and flip the switch on....there was literally like a 2 second delay. Also I notices that if I went to the second switch ( the leviton and flipped the switch. Power would go out and I would have to go back to the other switch...These switches have a little light that glow on them....very messed up it was) I called the guy back but he had no idea why. Now I hired a second Electrician... He worked on it for a while...Later it became clear that the other ON/Off switch had to be changed out as well. It was in the fine print of the first Leviton switch....now I am up to just over 300 bucks for both switches and two electricians. I have to say I did learn lots in the process. (so did second electrician) ..not enough if it's not a straight switch. My house is only 14 years old (built in Canada 2004) but I guess that;s old enough when it comes to present day wiring practices. I perhaps should have just went and tried hue lights to see if they would have worked on their own. Those are cool to.....I have a sensor in my garage and my lights in my garage entrance come on when I drive in at night...after 5 minutes the garage entrance lights go out. I have those in other locations in my home and they are on older switches. I love using it with google home I have to say.. My home router is a Asus RT-AC87U router.. when I look all my client list on it, I have 44 devices ( this is wired and wireless devices)...Lights, chromecast, switches. Ihome devices, cells, sonos, smart TVs,synology nas(s)Google Home, Ecobee 4 thermostat, computers etc. I do think people should invest in descent routers when they are doing this kind of stuff.... the ones from your internet service provider just are not all that great. I hope I answered your question.. I got a little carried away on the tech...LOL The router is the heart of it all working good...along with your isp of course. Today upload speeds can be as important as download speeds Now if I were a person getting a new router because I thought My router might be the issue...I would use the same ssd names and passwords so, that switching the router would be seamless for my connected devices.

[@mikebennett9317]

Richard Humphrey I think it does. I have the updated version of the GE switches shown in this video that have Zwave Plus. My house was built in 2013 so I’m assuming the wiring should be pretty straightforward. I guess I’ll install the switches to see if there is a delay. I have all led bulbs and plan on pairing the switches to a SmartThings hub with Google Home.

[@bobmorgan1762]

Drove me crazy trying in install the 3-way dimmer...now that I know it needed the “Add-On Switch” It’ll be a breeze.

[@illmatic33]

Bob Morgan so you definitely need an "add on" switch?

[@bmmaia81]

Hi Chris, I have the a 3 way switche (and a 4 way switch) configuration and want to use a Fibaro. According to the diagram from fibaro this is possible. But according to you this will not work because if i turn on the light "by software" and then turn off on the switch itself, the fibaro relay will never know it was shutdow, is that it? Thanks you so much for your support. love your work.

[@bmmaia81]

@@DIYSmartHomeGuy1 You're right. I went trough the manual again, and there's an option in the software for Fibaro to react whenever the other switches change (I guess it knows when circuit is open or closed). So it should work. I will try it and let you know. Thanks once again!

[@jacksgarage1232]

If you have your line voltage coming into a multi gang box with multiple switches controlling multiple lights, how do you isolate the neutrals per the instructions for the aux switch? I am able to get the primary to work, but unable to get the aux to work. Have tried multiple configurations, including putting aux switch in box with line voltage and primary in load box, and vice versa. In each case, primary works but aux does not.

[@asherd3367]

Can I use Levitron main switch with GE add-on paddle?

[@bryanklein563]

Hi John, great video, thank you. I have three lights I want to connect. They all have two switches (3 way lights?). Do I need to use both a primary switch (GE model number 12729) and an add on switch (GE model number 12728)? Or can I use a primary or only an add on switch? Why would someone add two smart switches for one light? Or is the add on switch not a smart switch and is just used in conjunction with the smart switch (12729)? thanks!

[@bryanklein563]

John Stone very nice, thank you!

[@felipevg0261]

Hello Jhon. Thank you for this video. I'm not a English native speaker and I want to ask you some question. I ordered the Tp link hs210 kit (two 3 way smart switches). I was planning to connect both switches in one 3 way circuit. Two smart switches for one lamp. After your video, I figure out that I can replace only one 3 way switch in the circuit. My question is. How does the actual (not smart switch) works if I turn off this switch?. Are still the Kasa app or Google home assistant able to turn On and Off the light? Thank you for your time and help.

[@waltermortimer6205]

Q: what do you do if the white wire is being used in the 2nd switch as a common?

[@jeremiahpowell3028]

Can these switches be controlled by Apple HomeKit ?

[@ramdisk00]

in a 3 way setup do I need to use a add on switch or can I use one of the original 3 way switches?

[@dennyvasquez2377]

Can I get some help! Im trying to install an switch like this but I only have 1 black wire. In all I have 1 ground, 1 neutral, 1 traveler and 1 hot wire 4 cables in total and this is for a 3 way pole that is currently working properly with regular switches. What should I do?

[@aaronlee4403]

Am I crazy or is the Leviton 3-way wiring the direct opposite if the GE? Insofar the GE is Master/Line, Remote/Load and Leviton instructions state Master/Load side, Remote/Line side??? This video is good but it suggests the same for both brands judging by the title. I have installed two different GE 3-way configurations no problem. I was thinking of switching to Leviton going froward. Anyway Leviton terminal labeling isn’t very intuitive compared to GE. Can anyone confirm that Leviton is the opposite? Thanks

[@JustinWalker77]

I apologize if this was already asked. I have the master Lutron switch which I want to connect to a 4 way and another 3 way. Can the smart master switch be used in conjunction with the existing conventional 4 way and 3 way? In other words must a smart extension/add-on switch be used?

[@richeiger2320]

Your video was great. I have a problem, and I think it may be unsolveable unless I hire an electrician. No problem, I have a three wire follower that goes between the two switch location. The problem is that there is only a two wire with line supply on one side. There is another cable on the side where the line side is missing, but that cable goes to an entirely different circuit. I tried tapping into it for a line on the missing side, but it didn't like it and tripped the breaker. So.....any alternative other than to get an electrician to run another two wire from the same line side? As a note, I did tie all of the white wires together on the missing side when I tried using that "other" line. Could that have been the problem? Just thinking about it as I type this......worked so long on this and pretty much disappointed..

[@richeiger2320]

DIY Smart Home Guy Thais for the reply. I did some checking and it turns out they used a white wire for the traveler. I rewired and now the switch is working great. Thanks again. You are very helpful.

[@garyhaven3847]

I have a 3 way swtich, both switches only have 2 black and 1 white wire. How do I determine which is the traveler?

[@Sunday1290]

Have you ever seen these GE switches go on sale? Btw your videos are super helpful. I had no previous electrical experience and installed my first few switches with confidence.

[@cjhudson101]

Sunday1290 Google camelcamelcamel

[@Sunday1290]

Chris Hudson Thanks Chris. Not knowing what I was googling I was a little worried what results I was going to get, but this tool looks awesome. Thanks for the tip.

[@cjhudson101]

I am waiting for about $35 price before I buy my next generation switch...

[@Sunday1290]

John Stone do you know what the practical difference between the switch listed above and model 14291? Based on very brief research all I can tell is a faster processor and more memory. Is there noticeable performance to justify the additional cost?

[@cjhudson101]

stupid auto correct... I think that was supposed to say dimmer... I need another dimmer which was $39 this morning.

[@jdagreek]

I have a set of 3 switches do I call this a 4 way switch ? will the same principal for this 3 - Way switch work in my situation ?

[@seanhartman6496]

I just watched a video by Leviton put out in Feb of this year that shows 2 different wiring scenarios. In one scenario, the line box is also the load box so it gets the Master switch and the other box gets the add-on, but in the other scenario the line and load boxes are separate, so the master switch goes in the LOAD box and the add-on goes in the line box. I think I've got it, then I'm back to being confused.....

[@seanhartman6496]

@@DIYSmartHomeGuy1 Will do, thanks!

[@marvinrespicio7157]

for that 3 way set-up, do i have to use 2 switch or just 1?

[@dshoffman03]

Where can I get help setting up a 4-way switch? Keep in mind the hard part isn't wiring up the switches, it is knowing what all the different wires that could be colored in any fashion relate to what function. I know with a voltmeter I can test for and find the live voltage wire, I think in the 3 separate receptacles only one will have a live wire if all the switches have been removed. How do I know what traveler wire goes to what receptacle - assuming I don't have a piece of wire long enough to reach between the two (but I do have a lamp I can connect wires to and see if the lamp comes on or off)?

[@dshoffman03]

I figured out all the wiring. I didn't even use a meter. It did involve turning the power on and off multiple times. I thank Science, and John Stone in that order.

[@danieldanny6283]

How to connect 2 way in 2 gang smart switch... one of the switch from both device need to control 1 light. And other switch from both control 2 different light....

[@nicksgarage2]

Been watching all your videos the past couple weeks. I'm buying a large home and moving my elderly parents in with me and going to set it up so that they can use Echo Dot to control things and I'll also be able to monitor people coming and going while I'm at work. Your videos are a great help. Already set up a few things in my current house to test.Have you used any of the GE Z-Wave plus motion switches I've seen on the Jasco site? I haven't seen them for sale anywhere other than their web site.

[@nicksgarage2]

Just got one of the new motion dimmer switches today. Ordered it directly from Jasco. Won't have the wifi set up in the new house until sometime this week. It came pretty fast from them. Need to get an add on switch since I'm going to use it in a 3-way application.

[@nicksgarage2]

I finally got a GE smart motion switch installed. haven't found a spot for the dimmer version. anyway it installed like the other switches and works good. I put it in my laundry room that you walk through from the garage to the house. I set up a robot in wink to turn on the light when the garage is opened. Then it turns itself off after 5 minutes. it also has a sensor that keeps it from turning on if the room isn't dark. only problem I had with it it's that it was very tight in the switch plate. when I screwed the plate down it would hold one of the buttons down. I had to enlarge the opening in the switch plate with a file.

[@TomCee53]

Thanks for not suggesting any kind of neutral bypass or hooking neutral to ground.

[@DIYSmartHomeGuy1]

You're welcome. That would be quite against all my electrical training! Just because it works doesn't make it right, not to mention safe. I very much appreciate the feedback!

[@nathanshaw4189]

I have an existing set of lights that are controlled by two switches. Pretty normal 3-way situation. Can I replace just one of them with the GE or Leviton switches without using one of their Addon switches in the other box?

[@nathanshaw4189]

I could just not wire in the second 3-way though, right? Basically put it back to a single pole installation? I guess I'd have to re-wire the light box too though huh?

[@dianejackson4881]

Is there any way to install a TP Link which has 1 neutral 1 ground 2 live to function as 4 way?

[@dereklyninski18]

Have questions on piggy back wiring is there any way to contact you about questions

[@anthonyflower9427]

I'm using a Leviton DH15S with a DD0SR-DLZ (non-dimming, WIFI). My existing wiring is #3, powered at the box with a light in the middle and the 3 wires continuing to the remote box. I have the DH15S powered and it works the light fine; however, the remote does not work. I have used your diagram and continued the Load (BK-Black), Neutral (WT-White) and Traveler (Red) from the Switch through the light box to the remote. In your solution you do not continue the Black to the remote box; however, if I do continue the Black wire the remote will shutoff the light when powered on by the DH15S. If the Black wire is not added to the BK terminal the switch does not control the light at all. The LED on the remote will flash when the light is powered off and is on steady at the switch.

[@anthonyflower9427]

Yes, I was referencing this Website as my wiring type. The DH15S is the primary switch taking the power and sending the Load to the light.

[@anthonyflower9427]

A followup on what I have learned about the Leviton DD0SR-DLZ. This switch requires a power connection at the remote location, must be powered. If you don't have the power you need to use the DD0SR-1Z remote switch.

[@Talk2Giuseppe]

Great video! Would the same thinking apply in a situation of a 4 way, 3 switches connected to a set of 3 canned lights? I can't seem to get everything to work - seems like one of the 3 switches always disables the whole circuit and then the smart switch becomes useless. I'm using a TPLink smart switch... I feel so close to getting it to work - yet so frustrated.

[@justanotherguy8791]

good video thank you

[@charbelhwayek2841]

is there a leviton 3 way switch homekit with add ons ? or any other 3 way set that works with homekit ? let me know thanks

[@illmatic33]

I hired an electrician to install a three way switch for the leviton decora. I noticed you used 1 three way and 1 "add on". I purchased two three way... Do I need to return one for an "add on"? I didn't go through the manual I just figure it's it's a 3 way then I'll need two. Fast fw, job complete but only one switch has a solid green light when off; the switch with the solid green line is always the one used last to shut the light off and only that switch can be used to turn the lights back on. So at any point, 1 switch will not turn the light on... The electrician should be back but he's out of town and I don't want to wait... Any suggestions?

[@BuzzingGoober]

What would I do if I don’t care about the 3 way ability? Essentially I just want to replace on of the existing 3 way switches with the smart switch and control it over z save always. I don't care if one doesn't work.