How To Change A Light Switch | Beginners Guide

Klein Tools Voltage Tester (NCVT-3P): amzn.to/3yYjzh8
I will cover the complete process of changing out or wiring a 2-way light switch. I will also show an example of a 3-way light switch just in case that is the type you need to replace. This video is made with the beginner in mind and as such, I cover all aspects of the project to ensure you only need to take 1 trip to the home improvement store
Chapters
0:00 Project Introduction
1:23 Testing To Confirm No Power
2:20 Removing The Faceplate
3:09 Removing Light Switch From Electrical Box
4:11 Difference Between 2-way and 3-way Light Switch
6:50 Selecting the Correct Faceplate and Light Switch
9:47 Install New 2-way Light Switch
12:44 Finishing Job and Installing Faceplate
13:53 Final Project Notes
Tools and Parts Used
Eaton Decora Light Switch (10 Pack): amzn.to/3k3jTVP
2-Gang Decora Faceplate : amzn.to/3gb3rBU
Wire Strippers: amzn.to/2NHHKuS
#1 Milwaukee ECX Screwdriver: homedepot.sjv.io/kLYRN
Klein Tools NCVT-3P - amzn.to/3yYjzh8
Klein Outlet Tester: amzn.to/39GyO33
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Wire Strippers: amzn.to/2NHHKuS
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DISCLAIMER: This video and description contain affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission.

[@carlarose45]

Somehow I made it to 65 without ever changing a light switch. Thanks to you, I will never again have to hire anyone for this simple task. your video was clear and concise, thank you!

[@JW3213]

Thank you so much for posting this. My Electrician Husband passed away and I don't feel comfortable hiring an outside contractor, so your instructions made me feel comfortable enough to do this myself. I so appreciate this that I will follow your channel now.

[@RockinwitRoxy]

I’m sorry for your loss

[@DBR00]

Word of advice my friends. I had a similar wall setup with actually 3 switches. We needed to change the switches out as well. We shut the power off and checked the first switch and confirmed there was no power. However, the second and third still had power and we got zapped. The second and third were on different breakers. So if you have a something like what’s showing here, make sure ALL switches have no power going into them before touching wires with your bare hands.

[@1953beckley]

I love your videos, but I also have a problem with my smart switches, to explain in details my hallway has three lights connect to my three way . Do I purchase a 4 way light switch with 2 black connector and 2 brace connector. My smart light wifi switches only have a hot connection and 4 out connection. I don't see a load connection. Just a hot and 4 out and a ground.

[@windsorpatb]

even with power off confirmed, I still avoid touching bare wire when possible.:-)

[@nelsonparra3797]

Good point. I just replaced a quad receptacle in my kitchen. Each side (duplex) in the box was fed from a separate breaker, so I had to shut off two breakers to change the one Quad.

[@leonelsway]

@@1953beckley I don't understand what you are trying to do. If the lights are on the same circuit, wire them in series. You only the one wire from the switch. Down side is if one light burns out the downstream lights will turn off. You could wire them in parallel using one wire coming from your light switch, this is preferred as any light on the same circuit not working will not affect the ones downstream. This applies to a regular old school switch as well as a smart Wi-Fi connected light switch. I'm not sure why you need 4 wires of load coming from the switch.

[@markymark5352]

Good. You got what you deserved.

[@saillikeagirl]

I absolutely love how clear you are verbally and visually. Thank you so much!!!

[@GTVAlfaMan]

Thank you. You are the first person to show me how to easily make a J-hook using the wire strippers.

[@glenb4887]

Absolutely! I’m 69 and I have wrestled with the things for years!

[@nemera34]

exactly. I never knew how easy it was to do.

[@rebeccawebb5891]

Me too! I had no idea. I've always used needle nose pliers.

[@so0flybr1tt]

Came across your video for help with replacing two broken light switches. You were so clear and informative - I was able to do this safely with so much ease! Thank you so much!!

[@mutakasata6752]

You are so gentle with explaining your experience. Thank you.

[@totallyfrozen]

I find this channel very helpful. Things I THOUGHT I knew how to do, I find myself learning new things or learning how to do them better. Great content! 👍🏻

[@dreamingrightnow1174]

Exactly.

[@mosesmom]

Hey I just successfully replaced my first switch and had every confidence after watching your video and looking at the diagram on the box. I am having to learn these basic skills as my husband has memory impairment and can no longer do home repairs. I just saved a bunch of money. Thank you very much.

[@spencerrobinson5385]

Really well done video. In a future video you should discuss the wire strippers you use and why, and how to properly use them. I have always struggled pulling the wire casing off with the “cutter portion” of the tool, not as you did with the end of the tool. So I learned something here! Thank you for that! Teach it in your next electrical video…..

[@dreamingrightnow1174]

Me too: I'd never seen that cut and pull trick.. And using the holes to bend the wires was nifty too.

[@ashbbey]

I just replaced my light switch following your step by step instructions. No prior experience. Invest in a voltage tester period. Thanks for posting.

[@CharlieLemmink]

Thank you! The first electrical work I've ever done, and I didn't die (or even get shocked!). I figured it would be a simple job, but your explanation touched on everything I needed, making it even easier than I expected. The rare job that only required one trip to the hardware store. Much appreciated.

[@johnepley1945]

I just recently found your channel. Already I’ve learned so much from you, things I really wanted to know. I love to do my own home repairs but have always been reluctant to tackle electrical projects. Your videos have given me the knowledge, tools, and confidence to make the basic repairs and upkeep in my 30 year old house! Thanks!

[@Aurleis]

This is another great video Scott, thank you. One thing that I do with a switch install, when I'm trying to determine which might be the traveler and load vs line (if all black) is disconnect the power, remove switching receptacle and wires, put the Wago 221 (2 conductor) on each of the black conductors. Next, I will flip the power back on at the breaker and test them. The ones that don't show up as the hot line, I remove the Wago (that way when I'm going between receptacle and breaker no one will come along and touch a hot and I know that the one that still has the Wago on will be on the hot).

[@ratlips4363]

At 72, and a home DYI guy, I can't believe how much I have learned in this video. Where were you 30 years ago?

[@nemera34]

OH wow. I needed to change the switch in the bathroom. Saw that speed wiring and freaked. You really helped me understand. I just replaced the switch following your instructions. I'm constantly amazed that people do these videos to share. Now I'm ready if if I need to do this again. 😗

[@e-Factorgame]

Thank you for this great video. It helped me change a switch and only make one trip to the store. I used to have my dad do these repairs but he is gone now so you were a big help. One thing I would add for people to know. When testing the switch box or plug outlets the electrician at the store said one prong of the outlet is hot and one is neutral. So when you test you might get a green light on the tester when the box is still hot. Sorry if I'm not using the right technical terms but bottom line is test both prongs of you outlets before doing amything. My light is now fixed and I am grateful for your video. Thanks again.

[@gabrielguevara7895]

1) I stayed because of your eyes. I'm secure enough in my maculinity to say that. 2) I appreciate the up close view and percise explanation. I didn't die, so instructions were good. Thanks!

[@AlongtheRiverLife]

I always write the breaker number on the inside of the face plates for each switch. Then no guess work there after.

[@benam5]

You are a great instructor. Thank you so much for making that video.

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Thanks!

[@idkmybe123]

Your video and clear instructions gave me the confidence to do this on my own. Just replaced a bunch of light switches today. Thank you!!

[@sunnysolheim2628]

I just found your channel, first I had to admire your green eyes, then back up the video, and try to concrete on the project. I think I’m feeling confident to change my light switch. My switch has 4 dimmer switches. A bit scary, so I think I’ll turn off the main breaker. Thank you for your step by step video.

[@chrishebert5672]

New subscriber. Good videos. I'm no electrician, but I was taught to never touch the conductive part of the screwdriver when working with electrical (as you did when you removed the switches) at 4:00. I know, you had checked and the power was off. However, it's kind of like treating every gun as if it's loaded. You don't take any chances. Many years ago (1978), I was removing the cover plate of an outlet and the screwdriver slipped and went right into the outlet. There was a large "pop", the lights in the building briefly dimmed, and the end of the screwdriver melted. Fortunately, I was only touching the rubber part of the screwdriver. My coworker came over and asked if I was okay, which I was. If I had been touching the shaft of the screwdriver then who knows what would have happened. Today, I triple check that power is off and I still never touch the shaft of the screwdriver.

[@beninaskaria]

Typicality you want to use screwdrivers that have insulation on the shaft which prevent this sort of thing, but electrical theory states that electricity always takes the path of least resistance. Assuming your skin has a much higher resistance than your metal screwdriver I doubt you would have been harmed. If your hands are wet on the other hand, all bets are off.

[@RCRoads]

Back in 1978 the circuit breakers were not what they are today. You could arc weld on a 20amp circuit by grounding out the phase conductor. Breakers never seemed to trip out.

[@SophieBird07]

Wow! I have learned so much! Being a bit nervous still, but inspired! I’m going to throw the main power probably, and then fix all the ancient outlets and switches I have. Still will be using a Fluke tester. But thank you so much!

[@1575murray]

I purchased a #1 Robertson screwdriver in Canada and use it all the time when changing out switches and receptacles. It is much less likely to slip and ruin the screw head than a slotted or phillips head screwdriver.

[@michellealdorasi8506]

This was a fantastic video! I managed to safely repair a broken switch in my dining room. I just subscribed; thank you for providing such great tutorials :)

[@wadeh486]

Yes! Thank you! This is a great break down. After watching I was able to easily remove a second switch for a light accessory on a fan that I wasn't using. Most videos like this leave you completely guessing if your doing it right or possibly going to electrocute yourself. The details here are clear and concise. Thank you for doing it right. One more Subscriber.

[@GraemePayne1967Marine]

Excellent presentation. I appreciate your emphasis on safety as well. Over the years - in several homes in several states - I have encountered a few abominations in hosehold wiring, some i was able to fix but many I had to call in professionals. I had a long career in repairing & calibrating elecrical-electronic test & measurement equipent, but I still know when something is outside my level of competence.

[@johnskedgell405]

Appreciate you vids. I have been using the tools I you show for years and never knew all of then ways to use to make the jib easier!

[@denisdeslauriers7277]

Here, we talk about single pole vs three way switch (or four-way, if that's the case). Also, with the model of switch you could have put the wire behind the plate and tighten the screw. This type of switch (probably a Cooper), allows you to put two wires in (on the hot side), instead of using a wire-nut (when feeding a second light switch somewhere else).

[@breathnstop]

I'm glad you brought up the paint issue and using razor blade. It will make tears in your walls paint.

[@komacaglass2508]

Thank you! You made it seem so simple

[@mrsmucha]

Thank you so much for this video! Now I have no excuse to change my light switch!

[@KanMan1973]

Great job on the video. Very clearly communicated and fully informative.

[@LTian-so4td]

Best complete explanation on every single detail I need to know!! Thx

[@liamfan]

Followed this and it worked. Thank you!

[@monroe2245]

Just thought I'd throw something else out there when buying switches - face plates can also change the appearance of your project. Doing my own, I found out plates (for switches and receptacles) come in either nylon or plastic. Nylon is bit more $$ but it's got a more glossy finished look over plastic. Also it's more pliable, so if you've got uneven walls or a multi switch plate that's not laying flat nylon is the better bet.

[@mathmusicmom]

My mathematical self loved that you line up the screws to all be vertical at the end.😍😍

[@teresasomers248]

Excellent video, outstanding instruction, easy to understand, clear and concise step by step. Keep the help coming!! Just another DIYer, who just subscribed to your site. Thank you.

[@mg1881]

I didn't know about using the hole in the wire stripper to make the j-hook. That'll save me lots of time in future and do neater work. Thanks!

[@janegilbert6280]

Thank you! You very clearly explained something I'd been unable to find an answer to.

[@johnmerkel756]

I loved how you used the wire stripper to make the J hook !

[@Number1fanofcaptain]

The 2 and 3 way examples was super helpful!

[@hoangduocsu75]

I really like they way you take time to explain the subject. thanks for the very helpful video

[@r3mnyc]

Thank you. Followed easily and changed my first switch. The only think I could have used more help with is buying a wire stripper. There must have been at least twenty version at my local hardware. And the prices ranged all over the place. The most basic model did just fine. Best.

[@imalt8271]

Good lesson and a well spoken presenter.

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Thanks!

[@toastonryeYT]

Good way to check for power is have the light on, see it, use the NCV tester to confirm it's working . Then hit your power breaker off. You visually confirm light power is off but you also use the NCV because there still could be a 2nd power source. From some funky DIYer

[@KingSobieski]

Just leave the power on. If you don't shock yourself you saved a trip downstairs.

[@alohamark3025]

​@@KingSobieski If you do shock yourself, you may get a free trip upstairs. Like you, I do a lot of installations on hot circuits. An AC voltmeter, gloves and insulated screwdrivers and pliers have kept me alive. Finding neutral and hot in a circuit is critical for 110 VAC boxes.

[@Irishguy777]

This was great, thanks very much; appreciate the simplistic and easy approach.

[@jeffs6809]

Wow. There are plenty of DIY channels on KZbin, but yours is the best I’ve seen so far. I’m not a beginner, but certainly no pro when it comes to performing simple electrical projects around the house. But I watch to pick up tips I may not know…. For example: I have the exact same wire stripping tool, but never used the hole to prep my wire for screwing into the switch. Now I don’t have to carry needle nose pliers anymore! Thanks for the tip! I clicked on your channel because I have two black wires leading into my switch, and I’ve always seen one black and one white. Now all I have to do is test for the hot wire and hook them up. Thanks again - - very well done!

[@robertdicke217]

Love that "pro finish"!!

[@kennetht.1624]

Very clear instructions for beginners like me. Love it. Thanks

[@rebeccawebb5891]

I replaced all of the light switches in my 3-story house and I had a collection of single pole, 3-way and even a 4-way switch. The rocker switches were beige and from the 90s and I wanted to replace them with bright white ones. It wasn't very difficult except that it wasn't always clear which wire was the hot wire since they weren't different colors. The orientation of the placement of the neutral and hot wires in the old rocker switches were not the same as in the new rocker switches. This means I couldn't just remove one from one switch and put it in the same place as the other switch. In your video, your wires are also the same colors. How did you open it up and automatically know which one was the hot wire? I had to go turn the power back on and use my tester to determine which one was hot. I also didn't realize that I didn't have to connect the copper or ground wire to the switch until your video? Why is it there?

[@tsetendorjee9040]

This is a very good show and we love it !

[@hoozthair6076]

I know generally the push in connectors are thought to be inferior. I have a house that's 43 years old and I've replaced almost all of the outlets and switches in the house. They used the push in connectors on every one and I never found one that was loose, in fact I would have to break the plastic to get it out. However, I did find at least one screw that the wire was nearly off and two others that were loose. Also as far as colors, what you are calling an almond in the past used to be called ivory which I believe was the same as one of your almond. Also there is a dark brown color. I wired an addition on this house and finished the upstairs on a previous house and I always used 12 gauge wire. After I make the hook for the screw terminal I take a pair of needle-nose pliers to squeeze them together so they actually make a loop around the screw. Interesting as always.

[@ericstoverink6579]

The problem with them is that the connection only makes contact with the wire across a tiny area when compared to the screw terminals. While it could be a strong physical connection it makes for a weak electrical connection.

[@hoozthair6076]

@@ericstoverink6579 this is very interesting but I would have to say that a loose screw doesn't really make a good electrical connection either. I don't remember that I've ever had trouble with either one but I just thought the push in connector was more secure. Are these no longer put on any outlets? Thank you for the information.

[@dhndavid1]

Thank you. Great beginner video. In installing a 2 way switch are the two black wires interchangeable. Thank you

[@bearslair2010]

Excellent job. The only concern I had regatds the colors referred to asbetween light almond and almond - I know them labeled & referred to as almond, and Ivory, and is much less confusing, IMO.

[@josephquinn3259]

Great video! Simple, clear, and very informative.

[@TaffenFelspar]

Nice video! Greta info for the DYIs.

[@jillmcdonald1714]

Hello Scott, I am trying to do many repairs to my 1999 Triple wide Manufactured home on my own. I thought I knew what I was doing but after replacing only 1 light switch to upgrade to the flat panel switches and outlets. I also replaced 4 outlets but now for some reason, my outlets and the one lite switch, nothing is working at all. I think what you were saying is that a light switch will be a double switch if there are more than 1 switch that goes to 1 room. The power has worked fine before but I don’t know where the problem lies. The light switch does have two switches for the dining room and it has 2 black wires and one Red wire. I investigated a different switch but it is different than the first switch. I was taking only 1 wire off at a time so I am sure it’s correct then go to the next wire and repeat. Both of these switches have a separate switch to light the hallway and dining room. The wires are different so I left those others alone. I did the same thing using just 1 wire at a time to not screw it up and I have replaced 4 of them. Can you please let me know if I am doing something wrong and how to fix the problem. I, like you don’t like the holes to pinch the wires in to so I did the same as you making the J- Hook. I am 61 yrs old and a widow so I have no one that could be able to assist me. I can’t afford to pay an electrician to com out to fix them. Is there a site that you have on here somewhere that would tell me what I did incorrectly? I am trying to work thru my disability and do the work myself or I may never get it done. I would appreciate any help you can give me. Thank you so much. Jill from Washington State

[@richardkmet3871]

great video. easy and clear to understand.

[@XLGaming]

I recommend Legrand switches because they have back wire (not speed-wiring) and side wire. it says spec-grade as well, but they are $2.30 a piece at menards

[@STICKJACKET]

Suggestion for a video: I’m in illinois too. I’d like to see how to add an electrical outlet up to and behind a wall mounted TV. I think I’m required to use metal boxes and conduit.

[@etherealrose2139]

There should be no reason to. Romex from existing receptacle to new plastic gang box and receptacle. You could use metal, though I have no idea why you would for a simple receptacle.

[@MitrovichtheMagnificent]

Depends what city your in but even in Chicago as long as it's under 6 feet you can use mc or Greenfield (yeah it's metal not Romex but you don't have to demo your wall, just fish through wall cavity)

[@danconnors8961]

nice job! learned a couple tricks I did not know, thanks so much I am working on a ceiling fan and the LED lights are flickering. Any thoughts which might be the easiest things to check? Thanks much Dan

[@michaeljohnson9551]

Get a Non-Contact Voltage Detector like this video says! Especially if there is more than one switch in the box. The one I just replaced was in a double. The breaker panel was poorly labeled. By trial and error we got the good switch power to turn off, as evidenced by the light bulb going off. At that point I would have assumed that the power to both switches were off, however the Non-Contact Voltage Detector told me otherwise. In fact, the two switches were fed by two different breakers. I didn’t want to spend the eighteen dollars at first, but I am glad I did.

[@211milkman]

Good thing to do while at Lowe's...If you're shopping for single pole switches, Make sure if you need more than one. To check that they are ALL the same kind. I needed 3 single pole switches and when I got home. 2 of them were double pole switches in the single pole bin at the store. Now I have to return the 2 doubles.

[@gingerehrhardt843]

Great demonstration!

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Thanks!

[@jolldoes1515]

I always put electric tape around before inserting switches or outlets. Good presentation

[@XLGaming]

I only use electrical tape if the contacts are too close to the edge of a box or mud ring (my home has metal boxes). otherwise you are left with a sticky switch if you ever replace it. Theres nothing wrong with electrical tape, it's just not necessary in most homes that use plastic boxes.

[@grizz1108]

Thanks for the Chapters amigo

[@ssgunner3222]

Your video worked for me thanks.

[@dhenschel4]

Lots of good information here, thanks for putting it together. Any time I put together a box with more than one fixture in it I wrap every other fixture with black tape to prevent any short between the fixtures. Some people do all of them, but I think thats overkill.

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Yeah, I really only wrap with electrical tape in a tight metal box. Appreciate the feedback.

[@jameskappel]

@@EverydayHomeRepairs Hello, during the '50s and 60's used friction tape for electrical work. is there an advantage or disadvantage or safety reason or self-life for friction tape? or am maybe I'm old school

[@thomasdragosr.841]

@@jameskappel Friction tape DOES NOT insulate. You should only use "plastic" electrical tape for a wire repair or wrapping a switch or receptacle. In the old days splices were dipped in solder then wrapped with rubber tape for an insulation then friction tape was applied over the rubber tape for mechanical protection.Friction tape will dry out from heat and crumble off the splice. The first wire nuts were porcelain followed by bakelite and then modern plastics, now the Wago type connectors are becoming popular (with some electricians) I imagine those old timers freaked out when the first wire nuts came on the scene just like they do today with Wagos.

[@jameskappel]

thank you. got it. much appreciated. have a nice day @@thomasdragosr.841

[@etherealrose2139]

Electric tape is for hacks and amateurs. There is literally no need for it. Nothing is magically shorting out and there's not near enough voltage to jump an air gap of that size. A needless waste that gums up the inside and traps heat and can actually lead to failures. Don't be that guy.

[@rickypurdy2898]

Awesome video, it was a big help.

[@SamGarcia837]

Great video. I've been watching all your electrical videos this past week and I thank you for passing all you knowledge. Greatly appreciated. I have a question. If you have a standard double light switch and wanted to change them to Decor switches will they fit or do you have to change the box? Thanks ahead if time.

[@SamGarcia837]

@m rapacki thank you

[@vanessaanderson1961]

Very helpful, thanks.

[@p165711]

I'd love an opinion on Aluminum Vs Copper wiring. I assume mine is original in a 1974 Rancher home, but in various places where previous owners have done improvements in finishing the basement, there is a mix of Al and Cu. The Al at the box looks in good shape, no signs of powdering, but if it is original to the house is it getting too old?

[@warrenosborne6044]

Even at 70, I still pick up tidbits. Thank you.

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

You bet 👍

[@lovethememory]

Thank you for educating

[@edpowell5754]

Thank you for posting this video. I ALWAYS tape the wirnuts AND tape around the switch itself. If possible when using a metal workbox I try my best to use a ground wire from the switch to the box. I have had switches themselves go bad making the lights flicker. When having to install a new box replacing an old one If possible I like using deepwell box's. Thanks again for posting this video. I like using a wiggie so as to test the ground wires. But often when replacing the wires it can surely become a can of worms big time.

[@jefflebowski918]

Pro tip: If the light is only controlled by one switch then the switch is a single pole, if the light is controlled by two switches then you must use a "three way" switch. If a house was built before 2011 then you were allowed to have non-grounded switches and have a white wire, the 2011 NEC code required all switches in dwellings to be grounded and both wires are black.

[@hugoanson2135]

Thankyou for your clarification.

[@Joshyohmygoshy]

You sir are a life saver

[@jroney10]

At 10:12 on your How to change a light switch/ Beginners Guide video Notice that there are two slits on the device where the mounting screw is located. One slot is for 12 AWG the other side is for 14 AWG wire, both can be used as a stripper.

[@MojoPup]

Good video. I love my Milwaukee combo screwdriver too.

[@arlenekrese6912]

Very understanding great help!⛏💡🛠🤗

[@AlongtheRiverLife]

Great video, loved watching it!

[@SportsGod4Ever]

Annnd you just gained an easy subscriber lol. Thanks for the help!

[@rollandjoeseph]

Good video, one question..Can you replace a standard switch which controls high hat/recessed lights with a dimmer switch to make the lights dimmable? Thx

[@anthonygutierrez2932]

Great video and great channel. One thing I do is mark the hot wire with tape for future reference.

[@beninaskaria]

Which hot wire are you talking about? If your not talking about the travelers then the other wire could either be the source side or the load side in a three way circuit. It depends on which of the two switches your working on.

[@jdhorton1432]

Thank you!

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

You bet!

[@marmaladesunrise]

EXCELLENT!!!

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Thanks!

[@timothyadams9612]

I always install the faceplate screws vertical to keep you from breaking a fingernail it is very possible to get your fingernail caught in that screw if it's horizontal

[@XLGaming]

that's a problem i've yet to come across in the 2 years i had horizontal screws.

[@rayornelas8459]

Really helpful and informative, thanks.

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Happy to help.

[@0552steve]

I was going to skip this because it's for 'beginners', and I'm not. But watch anyways. I did already know about 98% of what you described. but THAT 2%! Thanks. Liked and subscribed.

[@audiophileman7047]

Nice job! I found this video to be very useful. Thank you! 👍👍👍

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Thanks for the feedback!

[@audiophileman7047]

@@EverydayHomeRepairs Sure, you're welcome.

[@djijspeakerguy4628]

I also like the Eaton face plates for toggle switches as well. On the toggles, the Leviton plates have a gap above and below the switch, which collects dust. The Eaton plates are actually made to exactly match the size of the border on the switch itself, right down to the slightly rounded corners. Much cleaner look. (Not to mention, the Eaton toggle itself has a more modern, flatter and dust resistant design rather than the ugly, dust-collecting notch in the top and bottom of the Leviton and p&s ones.) my least favorite wall plate design has to be the old toggle ones from the 90s that had unnecessary lines near the top and bottom screws, not to mention a giant gap between them and the switch itself. I think these were made by Sierra electric. I do, however, like the old ribbed Art Deco plates, and think they need to make a reproduction of those for older homes.

[@ottoroth3066]

Djij....they do make them, and Lowe's and HD both carry em! Lot of people like smooth style...easier to clean!

[@tedstecker3251]

I have a three way light switch and a dimmer switch which one can I connect and outlet to. I have it connected to the three way switch but if you put on the other light switch the electric to the outlet is shut off. Can I connect it to the dimmer switch without it affecting the power to the switch

[@user-xn9rf2lv5p]

Thank you so much for your vid. I have a question. I have an outdoor outlet (CGIF?). When I disconnected the outdoor tool and pulled the cable, it pulled the outlet out! And now it isn't going back in. What would you do? Thank you

[@thegoodolvet5586]

Do you not typically wrap switches/outlets with electrical tape before stuffing in box?

[@dave9012]

I had a difficult time replacing a light switch today because 12 gauge stranded wires were used. The box contained one outlet and two single pole switches, and was full of AlumiConn adapters that have 12 g leads for greater wire flexibility. When I unscrewed the existing wires from the terminals, the stands were completely flattened and messed up. I used a pliers to twist the strands back into their original shape but it was not as neat as I'd hoped. I formed a J hook loop and found that it was nearly impossible to force the thick bundle of unkempt strands under the screw terminals. The strands kept flattening out and "oozing" out from under the screw. I was reluctant to cut the wires shorter and start with a fresh end. (I know the technique for installing new stranded wire on screw terminals, leaving a short section of insulation at the end of the wire to maintain the shape of the wire). After struggling for 20 minutes on one connection without success, I decided to use a different switch that has pressure plates under the screws, allowing the wire to go straight under the plate without bending. I still had difficulty forcing a thick bundle of slightly messed up strands under the plate. (The switch was marked as allowing 20 g wires.) This time I only needed to struggle for 10 minutes to finally get the wire to push in. Even if I cut the wire and made a fresh start, I'm not sure it would had made that much of a difference. Would making a pigtail be in order? It sure would have been easier. Anyone have a comment?

[@tempesttube]

Some options: Strip off a bit of the insulation without cutting the wire and pull it to the end of the wire. Use a Wago lever nut to form the pig tail. (You could use a wire nut, but I think the Wago would work better.) Solder the wires and insulate with heat shrink tubing.

[@adammorgan9304]

The technique for bending a hook using stranded as you already mentioned works ok. But the easiest way to do it would be to buy a device that allows for back wiring, which uses the little pressure plates. The next best option would be to crimp yellow insulated forks on.

[@JackRussell021]

I have replaced a number of outlets and switches. Back when the house was built, they oftentimes used backstab, and we have 12 gauge wiring, which was allowed back in the day. So when I do replacements, I frequently end up using "commercial grade" or "heavy duty" as those support backscrew (the residential grade do not always support this - esp if switching to decora style). It is easier and quicker to release the old outlet backstab, and then substitute in a new outlet with backscrew - less time spent bending wires

[@doctorfeinstone6524]

12 is still allowed

[@user-bx3zz9cx3y]

Modern homes use 12 and 14 gauge wiring. A 12 gauge wire can handle more current without overheating, which is better than 14 gauge wire. A 12 gauge wire is also suitable for lights because it has less resistance do to its larger diameter.

[@saltytoothpaste]

Wow thank you this actually worked for me in two seconds after “wiggling and pulling” for 20 minutes. Gotta love KZbin

[@marshallandroxy]

Awesome, really appreciate the video.