DIY 3D PRINTING SPRINGS! (Tested 10000.00 Cycles)

[@elliotth30]

I'm surprised a lot more people haven't seen this video, it's got a great production quality, great video!

[@PattysLab]

Cheers!, I've seen that people were posting this on forums and also a hack a day article was written about it. What I would like to do is to proceed with some more materials and some more scientific tests. As a part 2 video or something along those lines :)

[@the_omg3242]

That's pretty interesting. I work for a company that makes coil springs and it would never occur to me to try and make them out of plastic. Do they tend to stretch or compress once they've been cycled a lot? One tip for your extension springs would be to print a theaded plug to go in the end with an attachment loop on it. Bending the coil up on the end always creates a stress point which ends up being the weak point. By threading a plug into the spring and pulling on that, you spread the stress over the coils it's threaded into.

[@PattysLab]

Thank you for the reply! That's really smart actually 👍🏼

[@TheJacklwilliams]

Isn’t it great when one of your viewers actually contributes a constructive comment vs useless empty negative feedback? I like this. This is what I come for. Fantastic technique, fantastic testing, great project. Thank you.

[@klausbrinck2137]

and then superglue the threaded plug to the spring-"tab" (which isn´t a real tab anymore, more it´s the actual spring´s end, but I think everyone understands what I mean)

[@BamTehBrent]

The tips throughout were very valuable

[@farhs3133]

Wow, awesome technique. I was actually looking for a way of making springs, this video came in a perfect time.

[@PattysLab]

Thankyou! It's really hard to put out your idea 😅 since yt does not promote small channels I'm happy you found it :)

[@bloopbloop5663]

@@PattysLab you will be famous soon the algorithm just hit

[@suwedo8677]

I had literally this idea 6 years ago and didn't pursue it. Thanks for making it a reality.

[@richardlo1330]

the visual part of this, with the filament relaxing just prior to reoval, is very much like annealing silver with a torch.

[@UFO_researcher]

In order to increase the strength of the pull tabs on the pull spring, you should form the loops before annealing.

[@klausbrinck2137]

That would be too complicated. Still, he could localy warm-up the point he´s gonna bend, when he creates the "eyes".

[@ilikewaffles3689]

It's not annealing 😐 just normalizing

[@TroyRubert]

Microscope view of the failure site and a cross section of the springs compared to new ones would be super interesting.

[@RyanMcQueen1985]

This is fantastic! I have been trying to think of a way to create good 3D printed springs, but this is even better. Definitely going to use this in some designs. Thanks for sharing this! Also, great instructions. Very clear and thorough.

[@PattysLab]

Thankyou! Goodluck making them :)

[@TheFifthLight]

Good project, good science, interesting results! Good job sir!

[@WaspEyeNight]

Was looking for a cheap way to get springs quickly for my 3d printing projects without needing to go to the store, this should work perfectly! Thanks for sharing and happy new year!

[@PattysLab]

Cheers🥂! and happy new year!

[@CIA_Alien]

Neat that these can actually hold up that long! I guess the question is why though? It is so easy to make metal springs on your own that you don't have to worry about breaking from heating up or drying out due to the elements etc.

[@odinata]

You've got it backwards: its the absorption of humidity/moisture that makes it brittle.

[@PattysLab]

For PLA yes but not for all filaments

[@TheNone724]

Making 3d printed rc car with these would be quite awesome

[@ebe-hero7052]

Dang Good test! I learned a lot! Seriously thanks.

[@PattysLab]

Thank you for your comment! Is there any interest in testing for example ABS, PC or any other materials? Of even for the fact keep the springs compressed and starched for longer periods of times to see if the wall spring back of stay deformed?

[@ebe-hero7052]

@@PattysLab ABS and PC love to see comparison

[@armorhide406]

I'm so glad I found this. I was trying to figure out what metal springs I'd have to buy but this solves that since I can design the parts and then the springs after

[@Superimpresora3d]

what! awesome bro. loved this video. super helpful. keep it up dude.

[@ansiaaa]

0:46 - dried filaments are more brittle than filaments that have been exposed to moisture?

[@that1guy90]

Yeah, I think he misspoke.

[@hhKJgf1M8a0rzt8hP]

This is some true spring science.

[@electronsmove]

Good idea. Nicely done. Thanks.

[@alexfrenchmaker1903]

Your channel deserve much more fallowers! I will share this on Twitter!

[@PattysLab]

You are a legend Thankyou!!

[@gottagoMS123]

I have my 3D printer set up in my bathroom. I print directly out of a dry box. This means the exposed segment of filament out of the dry box gets tons of moisture whenever I shower and stream fills the room. After a few days, with no exception from five different brands of PLA, all of them snap spontaneously into several pieces, leaving only a small segment connected to my extuder. Conclusion is that PLA gets real brittle when saturated with moisture.

[@PattysLab]

I've never had such issues with PLA just left in the open but I'm really glad you point this out because it's important if people want to use PLA in their spring designs. I'm only now really curious how ABS would perform as a stiffer solution for Nylon.

[@darkshadowsx5949]

"pull spring" is actually called a tension spring.

[@ilikewaffles3689]

Yeah and the push spring is actually a compression spring. But maybe he's from a different country than US and doesn't know the exact terminology.

[@tomboman]

@@ilikewaffles3689 Its a literal translation of how we call "trekveer" and "drukveer" (pull spring and push spring) aka tension and compression spring.

[@ingGS]

Yes, but many people into 3D printing are not from an engineering background, so using colloquial terms can ease them in. I don’t see any issue with calling them “push” and “pull” as almost anyone can pick on what they are for.

[@eigentheory]

My d&$k is called a penis. What’s your point?

[@antronk]

This is mind-blowing! Awesome application!

[@knoopx]

I've tried this too, I designed some shocks for an RC crawler. A constant load with fluctuating ambient temperatures renders them useless, they will eventually (less than a week) loose shape.

[@PattysLab]

Out of which material you should make them out of nylon or abs

[@knoopx]

@@PattysLab I just tried PLA and PETG

[@PattysLab]

@@knoopx but in the test you could see those where the ones who broke ;)

[@knoopx]

​@@PattysLab none of mine broke, I'm not talking about durability but reliability. To properly test what I'm saying you should measure the length and put them on a screw with some washers and a nut. tight them to their full travel, leave them for a week on warm ambient temp and measure them again. My experience shows that they shrink considerably and loose springiness.

[@PattysLab]

Alright I get you this is interesting now I'm curious about nylon and abs an then just leaving them compressed for longer periods of time

[@Fwacer]

Cool stuff! I've wanted to make some springs but so far have only done big print-in-place stretching springs

[@PattysLab]

I was like if such spring works why doesn't this work

[@ilikewaffles3689]

@@PattysLab this is probably better for strength, but less flexibility for material diameter and harder to manufacture.

[@tinkermakar]

You saved my project, many thanks!

[@FreetheTongue]

I've been making these for years, but I've been using a space heater or heat gun (hair dryer works too but they tend to burn out faster) to gently heat the plastic as I coil it. I just used the chuck of the drill to hold the start of the filament. My issue is it takes a while to make them this way. Your way might be faster in terms of actual man hours (vs machine). I noticed that when I coiled the PLA cold I found the color would end up whitening and preserving the color is important for my application. I know this isn't really an issue for your purposes, but I'm wondering if the color would be restored during the baking process.

[@PattysLab]

I actually experimented with coiling the PLA in a pan with hot water in order to prevent it from having a lot of stress you might want to look into something like that :)

[@Jim_One-wl4ke]

Good job 👍. Will use for my mechanical designs. thanks for sharing a good idea❤

[@noanyobiseniss7462]

I'm trying to design clips that will hold down but need to flex up to 1mm during install due to variance in the board production. These clips will be under tension, what material should I shoot for? I am guessing petg will suffice but am not sure, I think pla is too brittle. The clips will be 3.5mm thick and width is not a consideration as they can be as wide as I need.

[@klausbrinck2137]

11:00 did u warm up the section to be bend, in order to form the tab??? or did it actually fail prematurely, cause it was cold when bent? earlier in the video, u don´t warm it up, but I thought/hoped, that the actual test-piece was made differently/correctly...

[@PattysLab]

It was a heated bend

[@theGADGETSplaylist]

smart! I share the concerns of PLA getting brittle over time. I'm thinking this method might work pretty good with weed trimmer string (nylon, I think) which does not get brittle and comes in many diameters...

[@PattysLab]

That's pretty smart! I'm btw also curious how PC holds up thinking about a follow-up video with many more materials

[@evilc2048]

I wonder how this would work with flexibles? I use a lot of a material called PEBA, which is basically a Nylon derivitave. It's main feature is that it has very good energy return and fatigue resistance, plus retains it's properties down to -60c. Hell, I bet you could print a spring from PEBA... It wouldn't even need to be helical.

[@1FishinAddict]

If you use weedwacker lines, it’s nylon, it’ll retain its shape for a while. You can make lanyard that way.

[@MJ_on_YouTube]

What an outstanding and helpful video. Very much appreciated. You earned a like and a sub as I embark on my 3D printing journey. I've been a manufacturing designer for nearly 2 decades, but this is uncharted territory for me. You saved me a tremendous amount of time and gave me new things to think about. Thank you once again!

[@PattysLab]

Ik Happy to add some knowledge to your already 2 decades of experience :). Cheers!

[@MJ_on_YouTube]

@@PattysLab I am humbly acknowledging how much I don't know. I'm quite limited in the exposure I have gotten from the 2 employers I have been with. If you don't mind my asking, are you an engineer? You accomplished a lot while doing the project for you gf's father.

[@tootalldan5702]

Nice job. Instead of kapton tape, I was thinking an outer tube instead and pack it with salt. Just a thought. It would be a nice video on your spring tester as an overview..

[@PattysLab]

Great suggestion!

[@wolfsworkshop9095]

do you think it's possible to do this without the kapton tape? maybe using painters tape instead since it shouldn't melt with high temps

[@PattysLab]

I'm not yo keen to put painters tape in the oven aluminum tape should perhaps he a better replacement

[@imothy]

have you used TPU as a spring? You can use it by itself sorta like elastic, I like using it on hinges, or in places you want to snap closed. I haven't had it break yet and I've tried pulling on it really hard!

[@PattysLab]

I think that tpu is to soft to hold it's shape. Since, the filament has a narrow 1.75mm diameter :)

[@johnfurr8779]

@@PattysLab I think it would depend on the application that the spring is to be applied to. I am going to try very light duty TPU 20 mm long compression springs with a 9mm OD to use in a 3d printed air engraver hand piece I have recently designed. I want to have the entire build possible using 3D printed filaments. I will also try petg springs for this. These springs will need to survive a couple thousand compressions per minute

[@Michael_Sky_19]

Great video! Thank you and good luck!

[@edwinirizarry9277]

Very nice trick for springs for 3D projects ty I love 3D printing!

[@OtherWorldExplorers]

Dude this was awesome Liked Subbed!!

[@PattysLab]

Awesome thank you much more content is yet to come :)

[@stefanguiton]

Pure genius

[@DaveWeagle]

If you just print a little screw type connector for your extension springs - one that screws into the end of them and picks up 3-4 coils, your fatigue breakage issues at the eyelet should be over!

[@GamingStuffChannel]

What is the use case for plastic springs? It is much easier to wind a metal spring out of spring wire.

[@smellslikeupdog80]

excellent video quality. Subscribed and binging in progress.

[@teddysoft]

Old video, got as a recommended and when i heard patty, directly press the sub!

[@PattysLab]

Cheers!

[@michal_king478]

you could also use different thickness nylon strings made for those string lawn mowers (dunno the name in english) theyre made all the way from about 1.5 to 3mm and are readily available at garden shops and hardware stores in small quantities

[@Sam3532]

Weedwhacker -us English. Strimmer -uk English

[@michal_king478]

@@Sam3532 thanks 😁

[@josedavid6400]

have you tried with grass trimmer wire?

[@ruanmuniz6161]

Amazing video... i will try to make make some of these springs, thanks. There goes a question, this springs can be used in airsoft guns projects ?? Thanks again

[@sato4kaiba]

Nice work. Nylon will always be my choice hands down. 😁👍👍👍👍👍

[@gouthamshailendra]

Hi, cool video. Any idea how it would work for torsion springs?

[@PattysLab]

In exactly the same way if you can anneal the torsion spring in a metal jig in the oven jou should be able to make one

[@akanobody5622]

Great tecnic, how can I know for sure, some videos say that you have to dry the filament cuz moisture is bad for them (you can buy dryers), others say you have to apply moisture cuz drying them is bad. Thx again for the video very useful.

[@PattysLab]

You are right filaments need to be dried before printing and pla becomes brittle when moist

[@derekprobizanski6835]

I don't even own a 3d printer but here I sit learning how to make springs out of filament

[@gavynjaspering]

Just curious if you own a printer yet

[@zdog90210]

Dope video and dope new channel to watch. NOICE

[@ANormalCoconut]

would it be easier to just design one in like onshape fusion etc?

[@GeneralHowToTutorials]

In my experience, PLA that has been left out gets very brittle. So why would exposure to moisture make it more likely not to break in spring form??

[@PattysLab]

Yeah I've pinned a comment stating that 👌

[@Tibo0551]

I run into this here for accident.... Thanks to that :-D A wonder-video and explanations. I will look more :-D

[@oljobo]

B r i l l i a n t video! So complete, full of good info! Thank You!

[@PattysLab]

Cheers!!

[@aarushirastogi1991]

Hi, can Polypropylene filament also be used?

[@PattysLab]

Would be a weak sprint I guess

[@nedgligich]

The springs did not brake only the eye ends. Perhaps if you 3D printed something like a short "eye bolt" or "eye screw" then glued into the spring ends with a flexible glue like silicon. Then hook onto the eye, it will distribute the tension on the coil.

[@PattysLab]

Yeah that probably works much better

[@subsyairsoft]

Brilliant!

[@joblessalex]

How did you get the thermal camera to go through the glass?

[@PattysLab]

It's a flir one pro which has msx this means its using a normal camera overlayd on top of the thermal image. You can't shoot ir though regular glas :) but in the shop you saw I opened the oven door

[@joblessalex]

@@PattysLab Ahhh. Makes sense. I didn't think the door was open. For anyone else wondering, thermal cameras can't see through glass!

[@markcahalan5698]

Possible to setup a shock absorption test? Where you have the compression springs on a pressure plate and hit them really hard to see just how much force they can cancel out

[@PattysLab]

Yeah good idea!

[@Crisisdarkness]

Wow, this has surprised me, very interesting what you have taught

[@Induku]

I am going to try this and add it to a speedometer that I am building!

[@AmaroqStarwind]

Under which circumstances do I need pull springs versus push springs, and is there any way to use both in the same part?

[@PattysLab]

Well many 3d printed gadgets do for example use printed in place springs to open boxes activate mechinsmisms etc. Usually many are printed in pla. From what I experienced like someone already mentioned in the comments PLA tend to looks it's ability to spring back over time if you keep it under load for longer periods if time. Hence why I showed this concept. Think for example about cosplay props or movie props for which you can use a nylon spring instead of print in place or steel spring. These speings will also not rust. Metals springs are always better of course but you would extend this method of plastic prints to make even crazier springs (I mean in their shape). Also I'll come up with another video where I use one of the push springs in a magnetic sensor configuration the plastic spring will nog influence the sensor reading. But to really answer your question I don't know when to use both push and pull springs in the same part it's up to you to design a mechanism that can house both you could think about a crossbow or something like that that the bow could use a pull spring and the trigger mechanism could use a push spring :)

[@AmaroqStarwind]

@@PattysLab You should try to create a J-Damper, a Wave Spring and/or a Friction Spring.

[@Raiden0zero0h2]

pretty cool, many thanks for sharing

[@Prof.Polymath]

Great work mate !! 👍🏼

[@Wernerrrrr]

Love the video! Very innovative.

[@ehonod]

Great work!!!

[@PattysLab]

Cheers!

[@HiDefTh]

Great idea! What a kind of tape you used to fix the filament at the metal rod? Beside a brand name for the tape, do you have any spec.?

[@PattysLab]

I use genetic kapton tape (polyimide not polyamide) if you google for kapton tape you should be able to find it :) Here you have an Amazon link: www.amazon.com/Temperature-Kapton-Professional-Protecting-Circuit/dp/B07S2219CK/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=kapton&qid=1611408514&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzMTlQRjBBQzdOMTlDJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUExMDQyOTg1MTVOWEg1VlczSlNPNiZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMjg3MjI4MUpHM0FFR1ZJNFlFOCZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX3Bob25lX3NlYXJjaF9hdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl

[@HiDefTh]

@@PattysLab Thanks! I got it. :)

[@PattysLab]

Okay great!

[@2025istheyearilearnWHOLEmi-p1e]

usefull time spent !!

[@2025istheyearilearnWHOLEmi-p1e]

also i subbed off course !

[@horacegentleman3296]

I suggest bending some steel wire into a sort of M shape to hold up your rod in the oven, if you don't have steel wire use wire hanger.

[@heatherryan9820]

This video alone earned you a life and a subscribe from me. I was really curious on it 3d printed could make springs or not, and now I know. One quick question, let's say, instead of having the springs be that long, I wanted a push spring that was about half as long, but had about double the amount of resistance when compressed. Could the be done by increasing the width of the filament used, or by increasing the diameter of the spring?

[@PattysLab]

First of all thank you :), stronger and springs can be made by decreasing the spring diameter or increasing the diameter of the filament let's say 2.85mm. You can use a stiffer material or change the angle of the helix, ie ending up with fewer windings. However if the material is stretcht to much you can go into plastic deformation and your spring wil be much shorter than it was before. My approach would be to take a good spring material like nylon and use a thicker material like the 2.85 filament and perhaps try out carbon or glass fiber filled nylons

[@heatherryan9820]

@@PattysLab awesome, thank you for the advice. I will definitely try that out. I'm just now getting into 3D printing and I'm super excited about finally getting started with it.

[@The_Releveler]

Awesome job.

[@ostanin_vadym]

Thanks for the content

[@kgaugeloselahle3388]

Create cups and glue the pull spring ends in the cups for mountaing

[@first-thoughtgiver-of-will2456]

excellent thank you!

[@Terrapin-gw6bb]

awesome

[@BigFishEnergy]

I used aluminum foil wrapped very tightly instead of the special tape and it worked just as well. Just a tip

[@PattysLab]

Yeah that's smart

[@BigFishEnergy]

@@PattysLab You are a wizard for sharing this technique. It turned out so much better than I thought it would.

[@StrykeFPS]

why did you choose not to use tpu?

[@PattysLab]

Tpu is to floppy

[@sysghost]

PLA has the disadvantage that it deforms permanently under stress over time even in room temperature

[@PattysLab]

But isn't that with all plastics? What timespan are we talking about. Might be a good to know for people to know :)

[@sysghost]

@@PattysLab All the PLA mechanical parts I've printed have permanently deformed due to static stress over a few weeks. PETG seem to fair a bit longer. Parts I've printed with that has lasted under static stress for months before failing of other reasons.

[@PattysLab]

Really interesting, since it might be better than to make the quick reload lock from PETG instead of PLA. Thanks for reaching back

[@ilikewaffles3689]

@@PattysLab yes, all polymers suffer from creep.

[@eldiagrama]

What kind of tape is that? Really cool

[@PattysLab]

It's called kapton tape ;)

[@The.Talent]

This video earned my sub. Checked out your other videos. Looks like some cool stuff coming

[@PattysLab]

Thank you! Yeah I have a lot planned for my channel

[@AWROAL]

Nice..!

[@RobertA-hq3vz]

Unfortunately PLA will tend to settle into a new shape if left over time in a stressed position. You're probably better off buying metal springs. Its not like tension and compression springs are not very common, or expensive.

[@LeGoooze]

This is ao cool

[@georgeblair7129]

Could make custom book binding coils too!

[@PattysLab]

How do you mean :)

[@georgeblair7129]

@@PattysLab think like spiral bound notebooks. They sell plastic spirals of varying diameters for binding purposes.

[@Nabikko]

can you use a metal filament?

[@PattysLab]

That would be to brittle

[@aryareel3760]

Amazing tool

[@PattysLab]

Thank you!

[@hakha436]

Thanks for the vid dude, saved me a lot of time researching plastic springs around

[@limboxis1022]

A handy comment for everyone that does not use the metric system. 120°C = 250°F 160°C = 320°F 200°C = 390°F

[@PattysLab]

Thankyou James

[@michaelthibault7930]

Accurate conversion requires only the ability to add, subtract, double, and divide by ten any given numbers; these operations are probably the easiest mathematical operations possible for the minimally numerate. Therefore: - double (2x) the C value to get first intermediate result (FIR); - from the FIR, subtract one-tenth of the FIR to get the second intermediate result (SIR); - add 32 to SIR to get the conversion value in ºF.

[@Warhawk76]

Very cool video, thanks so much for sharing. Liked and subbed

[@PattysLab]

Thankyou awesome!

[@Creative_Electronics]

Heel erg interessant project :)

[@michaele8024]

wish this would work for compression springs

[@PattysLab]

It does ;)

[@WaschyNumber1]

They are not 3d printed, more backed in the oven, would like to see a 3d printed spring from a 3d printer and Testet with more materials. 🤔 Have you tried strimming nylon lines 🤔 Wher can I get cheap goid kapton tape?

[@PattysLab]

I've used nylon in the test which is quite similar to weed trimmer line :), kapton tape probably from Amazon

[@WaschyNumber1]

@@PattysLab it would be interesting to see directly 3d printed springs working, if that would be possible 🤔 that they would work the same like the oven made ones.

[@ionymous6733]

next time you make spaghetti, wrap one around a pen or rod of some kind, to form a spring, and leave it to dry.

[@JustDux]

What about ABS?

[@Floortile83]

Can you print a slinky?

[@PattysLab]

I've seen joel from 3d printing nerd do it here kzbin.info/www/bejne/gIvGppKMh6eplbs