DIY ARTICULATED MAGNETIC CAMERA MOUNT

Design and build of a DIY articulated video camera mount with a magnetic base.
Paypal donation www.paypal.com...
Support through Patreon / robrenz
I am "robinrenzetti" Instagram lots more content there!
Great synopsis of the video by brs_workshop
"Shop Notes"*
• Inspiration from EEVBlog #493: • EEVblog #493 - DIY Vid...
• Description of requirements for the design and use
• NOGA base DG0038(?):
Amazon: www.amazon.com...
Amazon similar mag but with multiple thread 'cheeseplate': www.amazon.com...
KBC Tool: www.kbctools.co...
McMasterCarr (same specs but no brand listed): www.mcmaster.c...
• Observance of surface finish on magnetic transfer (grip)
• Moment of inertia and large cross-section members
• Discussion of carbon fiber weave and lay
• Design on camera plate with a 3-bar linkage with detents
• Influence of table vibrations and choice of mounting points
• Build starts @~13m: • DIY ARTICULATED MAGNET...
• Plate construction
• Chamfering the inside edges on the lathe
• Ball construction
• Architectural steel balls 18ga
Alternatively you can source hollow ball bearings that should have a better roundness tolerance from the get-go. You'll have to contact the bearing house for more info.
Boca Bearings 63mm hollow bearings: www.bocabearin...
76mm:www.bocabearin...
Check with your local bearing house.
• Using Stay-Brite to silver-solder the springs
Harris Stay-Brite Kit (Amazon): www.amazon.com...
Harris' website: www.harrisprodu...
• Harris Stay-Silv Black Hi-Temp Brazing Flux
Amazon: www.amazon.com...
Harris' website: www.harrisprodu...
• Creating the radius for seating the tubes to the balls
• Lapping spheres: • DIY ARTICULATED MAGNET...
Al ring w/bevel, work spun with a cordless drill. Coarse emry paper fitted to ring, then lapping compound
• Using Loctite 243 Blue threadlocker to mount the ring to the base and ball. Everyone that make things with screws should have some blue threadlock.
McMasterCarr link: (243) www.mcmaster.c...
Amazon link: (243) www.amazon.com...
Loctite website: (243) na.henkel-adhes...
• Using tie rods (tension) to assemble the ball rods.
• Good silver soldering tutorial @ 27m: • DIY ARTICULATED MAGNET...
• Detent head, overview of design and assembly. Links from Al angle 1/8" thick.
*Not affiliated with any manufacturer or distributor. Links just for convenience.

[@tesladrummer]

"Shop Notes"* • Inspiration from EEVBlog #493: kzbin.info/www/bejne/hKPTd3-EbMuHp8k • Description of requirements for the design and use • NOGA base DG0038(?): Amazon: www.amazon.com/NOGA-Magnetic-Holder-Bed-Dimensions/dp/B0006J4A7E/ Amazon similar mag but with multiple thread 'cheeseplate': www.amazon.com/DG1003-Switchable-Off-Magnetic-Bed/dp/B007GSVKBW/ KBC Tool: www.kbctools.com/default.aspx?page=item+detail&itemcode=1-457-DG0038&catlist=21517&parent=9582 McMasterCarr (same specs but no brand listed): www.mcmaster.com/#1977a15/=19p89y9 • Observance of surface finish on magnetic transfer (grip) • Moment of inertia and large cross-section members • Discussion of carbon fiber weave and lay • Design on camera plate with a 3-bar linkage with detents • Influence of table vibrations and choice of mounting points • Build starts @~13m: kzbin.info/www/bejne/goi4eZ-vnpJrg8Um2s • Plate construction • Chamfering the inside edges on the lathe • Ball construction • Architectural steel balls 18ga Alternatively you can source hollow ball bearings that should have a better roundness tolerance from the get-go. You'll have to contact the bearing house for more info. Boca Bearings 63mm hollow bearings: www.bocabearings.com/products/63mm-hollow-304-stainless-0-8-thick-24904 76mm:www.bocabearings.com/products/76mm-hollow-304-stainless-0-8-thick-24903 Check with your local bearing house. • Using Stay-Brite to silver-solder the springs Harris Stay-Brite Kit (Amazon): www.amazon.com/Harris-SBSKPOP-Stay-Brite-Silver-Bearing/dp/B0089ETUN2 Harris' website: www.harrisproductsgroup.com/en/Products/Alloys/Soldering/Lead-Free-Solders/stay-brite.aspx • Harris Stay-Silv Black Hi-Temp Brazing Flux Amazon: www.amazon.com/Harris-SSBF1-Stay-Brazing-Black/dp/B00EDMM4KU/ Harris' website: www.harrisproductsgroup.com/en/Products/Alloys/Brazing/Fluxes/Stay-Silv-Black-Flux.aspx • Creating the radius for seating the tubes to the balls • Lapping spheres: kzbin.info/www/bejne/goi4eZ-vnpJrg8Um14s Al ring w/bevel, work spun with a cordless drill. Coarse emry paper fitted to ring, then lapping compound • Using Loctite 243 Blue threadlocker to mount the ring to the base and ball. Everyone that make things with screws should have some blue threadlock. McMasterCarr link: (243) www.mcmaster.com/#loctite-243/=19paczr Amazon link: (243) www.amazon.com/Loctite-1329837-Medium-Strength-Threadlockers/dp/B004VODM24/ Loctite website: (243) na.henkel-adhesives.com/product-search-1554.htm?nodeid=8797710024705&msdsLanguage=EN_US&selectedTab=technical • Using tie rods (tension) to assemble the ball rods. • Good silver soldering tutorial @ 27m: kzbin.info/www/bejne/goi4eZ-vnpJrg8Um2s • Detent head, overview of design and assembly. Links from Al angle 1/8" thick. *Not affiliated with any manufacturer or distributor. Links just for convenience.

[@ROBRENZ]

Again thanks for the awesome work! I will pin these to the top.

[@ducatista1098s]

Robin, your ingenuity and high level of sophistication in your work are truly an inspiration. Even your "shortcuts" represent an elegant simplicity one would find in the most enduring designs. Cheers.

[@ROBRENZ]

Wow, thank you!

[@StefanGotteswinter]

I was thinking about a carbonfibre indicator stand, but was not sure how to mount the joints to the carbonpipe. Now, that what you showed there is a great design, the tension rod makes perfect sense.

[@ROBRENZ]

Thanks Stefan, You finding something useful in my videos is quite a complement.

[@hla27b]

A camera mount NASA would have made. Lovely work as always Rob.

[@Ujeb08]

Very cool positioning system you've come up with Robin! The forethoughts in your design process is amazing. Thanks for sharing

[@Gottenhimfella]

Another masterclass in conceptual design, detail design, deflection control, design for manufacture, manufacturing methods, resourcefulness, productivity, and handy tips. Muchos kudos, maestro!

[@ROBRENZ]

Thanks again for the kind words Gottenhimfella!

[@jasonvanhalle]

Every time I think to myself "Meh, I don't really have much interest in XYZ Topic, but I'll watch the video anyway" I find myself glad that I did. I have zero desire to make a camera mount, but as always, your creativity with setups, techniques and your unique thought process mean that there were a couple of real gems in this video. Thanks for sharing Robin!

[@FelixRusu]

Every once in a year or so I come across such well put together and truly content rich videos, thumbs up, great work, keep'em coming sir. You're the new EEVBlog :)

[@ROBRENZ]

Thanks, glad you are enjoying them.

[@bobvines00]

Robin, this is the second time that I've watched this video -- after Stefan mentioned it in his "Toolgrinding: Radius Groove Inserts" video (July 2024). I think that I'll need to manufacture a similar mount for my shop, even though I'm not a content creator. You're either a degreed Engineer or easily put many to shame with your knowledge and skills! I hope that you are well and haven't posted recently because you are simply too busy with your business to film & edit videos. I miss your videos though! ;)

[@PeterWMeek]

What I took away from this: 1) Flattening the surface to improve mag-mount grip. (That inverse-square law really applies "forcefully" at short distances.) 2) Lapping spheres. (I had actually seen this effect in one of Tom Lipton's videos but had forgotten; this will maybe make it stick.) 3) A compact detent system that looks like it will really grip. (Belleville washers are another system that doesn't "spring" to mind as a first choice.) 4) Lightweight components and large moment arms make all the difference. It sure beats brute-force solutions.(Bigger and heavier will do the job, but....) Great information-packed video. Thanks.

[@ROBRENZ]

Thanks Peter I am glad you are finding useful content and thanks for commenting and watching!

[@takisbakalis]

I can't find the words to explain how much I respect and admire Robin.

[@kibi15]

It's marvellous. The part where you show how it's made is the best bit!

[@ROBRENZ]

Thanks, glad you enjoyed it!

[@joell439]

Rob, you're an incredible craftsman. What a thoughtful design. The detail you show is perfect. Thanks for the amazing number of tips and tricks. I have learned so much!

[@ROBRENZ]

Thanks Joel

[@RGSABloke]

Robin, amazing, I learned so much, if I remember 1/10 of you video I will be a happy man. Many thanks for sharing. Joe.

[@ROBRENZ]

Thanks Joe and thanks for watching.

[@nhcreator6563]

Just completed making one of these , very fun project and great idea thanks!

[@Keith_Ward]

Awesome design Robin! Thanks for all the details in the second half, absolutely loved it all!

[@ROBRENZ]

Thanks Keith and thanks for watching and commenting!

[@matter9]

My new favorite channel! Love learning the thought process behind good design and engineering. Thank you!

[@ROBRENZ]

Thanks, glad you are enjoying them

[@riaandewinnaar5040]

Nicely engineered.

[@hullinstruments]

I would love to see electronics content from you. Specifically test equipment DIY projects and restoration. I’ve come back to your videos several times over the years, … I remember the first time I found some of your videos. I was STUNNED at the methodical work in which you approached your versa-ohm project. And your kelvin connector video is a gold mind of information and ideas! As a trained machinist, who’s spent most of my life building & restoring musical instruments… I greatly appreciate your attention to detail. It’s not common to find that type of work here on KZbin. Or anywhere outside of a Metallergy lab or something… Half of my business is woodworking but the other half is spent in my lab repairing industrial electronics and test equipment for a wide range of clients. I was born and raised here…“The home of the atom bomb“. Our tri-state area has a huge amount of government and private laboratory & manufacturing activity. And honestly I stumbled into electronics by complete accident. It really happened fast and unexpectedly 5 or so years ago… And honestly don’t know why. I was never interested in electronics… It just kind of happened. I Mostly focus on component level board repair with a bit of metrology sprinkled in For Fun. (and as a never ending source of more gray hair) I don’t mean to ramble… Just dropped by to encourage you and hope to see more from you. The way in which you approach your work is very commendable and I have a great respect for your craftsmanship. Not many people on KZbin have this attention to detail and work to such a highly skilled level. And in so many different areas. I really enjoy it and would welcome any new content.

[@henmich]

20:45 Machinist hands. Good for you, that you do what's needed to create something amazing. Screw staying clean.

[@DaS-ys8us]

Your videos are now first on my must watch list. Thanks

[@ROBRENZ]

Thanks for the very kind words and glad you are enjoying the content.

[@RichHernigle]

Wow that is a great tool. You could use an arm like that for not only a camera, a lamp, or a microphone. There are so many KZbinrs that need tools like this.

[@ROBRENZ]

A version 2 is in the works.

[@RichHernigle]

I hope you will make a video when you construct that.

[@ROBRENZ]

Absolutely!

[@DudleyToolwright]

Another very creative solution with impeccable execution. Your customers are very lucky if you take such pride in construction in your own personal, non-critical tools. Fantastic.

[@DudleyToolwright]

@@user-gw9bq8ob9h Chamfering?

[@LikeFactoryMade]

I was looking for your video because I wanted to build something similar. You are a great source of learning and inspiration. Thank you for putting in the effort for sharing your ideas with us.

[@lavidboys]

Consider my mind blown!! I work for a electronics recycling company we get a ton of Faro scrap arms with carbon fiber and the magnetic bases. I’ve also been looking for a camera rig with DSLR for our e-commerce store. I’m using linear rods from a few plotters. The concept is to increase our photo production once I’ve finish I’m going to try your rig.

[@ROBRENZ]

Thanks Hal, glad to see you are still around.

[@ArsenioDev]

This is a BEAUTIFUL piece of work! I only wish that I had access to your equipment and skills!

[@HanstheTraffer]

Thanks. So much fun to watch a master at work.

[@ROBRENZ]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@ROBRENZ]

Thanks Paul I am really enjoying using it. Just seconds to get the camera in the perfect position without touching any knobs or levers.

[@stevendoesburg6555]

15:15 From an aerospace engineers perspective: fiber composites do not like to be hammered on, nor do they like compressive edge loads. This will cause delamination and other damage to the composite. In this application it should be fine, but for aerospace work its a big no-no and will likely cause early failure of the part. Similarly the edgeloads on the tubes will cause failure at fairly low load levels. Fine here, but ideally you introduce your load into the tube through shear. If you turn inserts with a long section of OD with a tight tolerance to the ID of your tube and bond them in it will allow for much higher loading. you can either bond or weld the inserts to the balls before bonding them to the tubes or use the same tension rod system as you used here to hold the balls on.

[@user-gw9bq8ob9h]

Do you happen to know what operation he does at 14:53 in the video?

[@mdmarmd]

I found this while looking for an articulated arm to hold my tablet. This is such a clean system compared to everything else I've seen out there commercially. Any chance you might consider making a run for people looking for ways to support their tablets, or teaming up with someone who could do it for you. I'd think the potential value would be exponentially increased if you consider all the tablets that are being sold.

[@ROBRENZ]

+mdmarmd I have a lot of changes I would make on a production version but no time to work on it at the moment.

[@HanstheTraffer]

You gave me some great ideas here. I am cave-man-ish though. Got a collection of articulating "drafting"?" lamps. Going to attach an extra arm on one for my video camera. NOTHING like yours in quality or versatility or cool factor...but practical. Maybe I"ll make video of it. Thanks

[@timetodopatriotstuff2315]

Really well thought out camera mount and nice illustration of use and making of the mount anther great video thank's for sharing your technical know how of your craft.

[@ROBRENZ]

Thanks and thanks for watching and commenting.

[@johncarson5282]

I had the same idea and used an old desk lamp. Same articulations and ready to go.

[@RickMcQuay]

Very well thought out and crafted. I made one from wood that sits on a tripod but the mag base would be very handy and I might borrow your idea.

[@braxtonec]

Great construction and very informative tips on joinery. Thanks for sharing!

[@billdlv]

Nice job, and attention to detail! Have not seen that black flux before will have to give it a try.

[@ROBRENZ]

Thanks Bill, you will like the black flux! Thanks for watching some of the older videos. Ultimate Kelvin connection part 1 and 2 and kelvin banana jacks are 90% machining content and I think you would enjoy them.

[@marklatham5692]

Robin, this video is terrific! It's almost three years old now, I'm curious as to how well your vidcam arm is holding up? My son and I had been discussing building a couple of arms like this. He suggested carbon fiber tubing but I had never worked with it before. I had thought of an extended inside aluminum plug with pins, then I ran across your video. Your idea with welding wire and soldered threading is very elegant, light weight and simple. Thank you so much!

[@ROBRENZ]

Thanks Mark, still using the arm to do all the videos. I have a rev2 in the works and will video it as well. I suggest using epoxy on the edge of the tube where it contacts the ball instead of Loctite as shoen in the video. Thanks for commenting and watching! ATB, Robin

[@denny9931]

Very cool, inspiring and very informative, can´t wait to build one or two. I´ve never seen such a practical ball grinding method and procedure. The inner workings of this detent are also very useful, thanks for explaining it. Camera gear is always a nice project. Looking forward for your improvements on rev2, as i got a defect magnifier/lamp combi laying around with a broken stand that needs to be fixed, not exactly that way, but it contains many ideas on how to go on.

[@dannymaciejewski]

Awesome video! Never knew how to make my own detent assembly. Great channel Rob!

[@ROBRENZ]

Thanks again Danny!

[@travisshrewsbury7169]

freaking brilliant

[@ROBRENZ]

Thanks Travis, I am still using it to do all the videos that I have posted since I built it. ATB, Robin

[@Tresoroeffnung]

Watched from start to finish, excellent..

[@ROBRENZ]

Thanks!

[@Tresoroeffnung]

no problem, many thanks..

[@riceburner32]

great video, would have like have seen the ball rounding (hammering) step.

[@ROBRENZ]

+riceburner32 Thanks, glad you liked it. It is always a struggle between those who want to see more details and those who think there is already too much detail.

[@Gottenhimfella]

I was surprised that there did not seem to be a wide chamfer on the hollow cylindrical "dolly" you supported the balls on for hammering. I would have expected ringed indentations on the ball, but there was no sign of such. Maybe the chamfer was wider than it looked, or perhaps you lapped or machined it to a spherical hollow, for better contact? (on the latter topic: have you experimented with the orbiting tool in a boring head / workpiece on a spinning rotab, to generate spherical surfaces? Seems like the sort of brilliant dodge you would resonate with!)

[@eurekadog]

Great work! Your video is spellbinding. I really enjoy how meticulous you are and how well you explain only the important issues. Loved the video. Please Keep up with the great work and excellent filming and audio. Thanks,°j°

[@ROBRENZ]

Thanks for the very kind words and glad you are enjoying the content.

[@kristiandelchev4034]

Thank you ! As always full of amazing information.

[@jix177]

Absolutely superb work! Love it. Well done + thanks for sharing!

[@biggreenbone]

great piece of engineering love it

[@hla27b]

Thanks, will be back at the forum in a short while.

[@Rhine_Labs]

Wonderful, I want one!

[@hullinstruments]

If you haven’t seen the ball and socket work done by Edu Puertas....Please go to his channel and take a look. His work has been used in some big budget stop motion scenes in big Hollywood movies. He machines it all himself and makes some truly beautiful ball and socket joints.... his armatures, articulating arms, fixtures, and stands are great. They’re actually really cheap for what he’s offering. I bought some of his floating rack and pinion ball/socket fixtures for use in my workshop… I was having various complex fixturing problems. And wasn’t satisfied with the ball and socket arms found on dial indicator fixtures or camera equipment. I’ve built my own ball and socket stuff many times before but I didn’t have the time and his stuff is so well-made and fairly priced.

[@hullinstruments]

I built a few “sphere making machines“. Commonly used in the lapidary industry for making GemStone spheres. I needed them for grinding/polishing glass spheres in some of my glass blowing experiments. When I was learning how to reproduce antique handmade “cane type” marbles. I was also grinding and polishing very old antique handmade marbles that had been played with heavily and had many chips and imperfections. I’ve had several marbles worth hundreds of dollars (and yes grinding them sometimes can decreases the value)… But if it’s so pitted and chipped you can’t see the pattern inside… It’s a net gain in my opinion. Each marble is different… And I don’t recommend people go grinding their antique marbles to try and pass them off as better condition. Anyway after all of that rambling… The way the sphere making machines are designed… They are truly random and make a nearly perfect sphere. although it is very crude compared to my precision faceting equipment.... it’s been incredibly useful for many tasks other than grinding marbles and some of my wife’s gemstones. The machine can be made inexpensively from hardware store parts. And just set it and forget it. Wouldn’t take long to get those balls you’re using close to perfect. Then you simply swap them through the grits and walk away. you don’t have to stand there and babysit them. Kind of the same operating procedure used with a rock Tumbler. Just put it somewhere where you won’t hear it all the time and leave it. I had mine on a cheap five dollar mechanical timers plugged into the wall.

[@ROBRENZ]

please show your sphere lapper

[@mikewalters2334]

Excellent video, thanks! You've mentioned a few times that you'd make some changes for a future version, could you go into some more detail on what you'd change? Cheers.

[@ROBRENZ]

Thanks, you will have to wait for the video of the new one when I do it. Thanks for watching and commenting.

[@BMRStudio]

Awesome :) Can You produce more?

[@TylrVncnt]

Sooooo badass!!

[@DeRaafMedia]

Very, very, very nice!

[@TodorDelev]

wow, simply amazing !

[@Paddington60]

Great stuff, thank you.

[@Fabrizio_Marengo_Fai_da_Te_DIY]

Nice work, I'll try to build it with wood.

[@DudleyToolwright]

Question for you. I notice that you always seem to use the silver solder rod with separate flux. Have you ever tried the paste? You can get the appropriate alloys that are flux with ground solder. It seems as though it would be easier. Is there an issue you are aware of?

[@josiahlevasseur4479]

Awesome! You inspire me man thanks

[@ROBRENZ]

Glad to hear it!

[@JesseSchoch]

Hey Rob, thanks for making this! I'm making a version with golf balls as the balls and I was wondering how you decided on the size of the holes for ball clamps? Oddly the golf ball seems to constrain motion in the plane of the plates which was not something I expected. Did you plan on having the motion constrained in that plane and using rotation to allow for more range of motion vs allowing the ball more freedom to move perpendicular to the clamping plates?

[@ROBRENZ]

IMO it is important that the balls can move in any direction, not just the plane of the plates. I modeled the joints in cad and sized the holes so the plates did not clamp on the tubes before they clamped on the balls.

[@JesseSchoch]

Here's my prototype. kzbin.info/www/bejne/Zmq1nYWvgdh4jc0 Not any where near the same class as what you made, but it is a fun project and I can only wish to have the tooling setup and skills you do! I clearly need something stiffer than 3/4 square ply. If you know of something easy to source please let me know. I'll also post the STL and fusion 360 files when the design is finished.

[@gregorydsouza4880]

very nice excellent

[@ROBRENZ]

Thanks Gregory, and thanks for commenting and watching! ATB, Robin

[@michaelcollins724]

Great!

[@CraigHollabaugh]

awesome.

[@ROBRENZ]

Craig Hollabaugh Thanks, glad you enjoyed it. I already have plans for a much better version. I just need time to work on it.

[@CraigHollabaugh]

ROBRENZ sign me up for the machined parts, (balls, plates, spring clips, detented camera mount) if you're making a production run. Love the magnet base inclusion. I was wondering what I was going to use my old one for until this morning. Honestly, after watching every minute of your video, I spent a couple hours looking around at architectural steel balls, CF tubes, and bellville washers (new to me, forgive me for I'm a EE). Let me know, if you're making a light production run and what parts you're making. Here's what I liked the best. Turning down a nut as the threaded flanged hollow ball insert. Ingenious my good man!

[@ChrisGagnonDIY]

do you think i could try to drill a golf ball and put a bolt through it and connect it to an aluminium tubing. would the golf ball hold up well?

[@ROBRENZ]

That would not work well because the golf ball is too flexible.

[@georgepierce8535]

Golf balls are full of tightly wound rubber bands they would go nuts when a drill bit hit them. they'd clog up the hole instantly and bleed out through it.

[@alnaee2634]

Nice could you make one /smaller version with bollbearing for indicator base stand. Not a bad idea though. good job

[@ROBRENZ]

Yes you could, thanks for watching and commenting!

[@aserta]

Having two tubes one, inside the other with opposing fiber patterns will deal with the issue.

[@ROBRENZ]

Understood, thanks

[@bradmdavis]

Hi Rob. Random question, what are those bottles called that you keep Isopropyl in? You can see one in the background of the very last shot

[@ROBRENZ]

Those are not as good as getting bottles with Luer lock lids that will hold the Luer lock nozzles.

[@rupertpowell]

Rob. I am just about to set about making something very similar as you have here for my workshop cameras. As you have used this for a number of years now are there any changes you would make to the design. I intend to use 70mm balls for the base and 50mm for the rest. 30x28mm wrapped carbon tube (2x900 long). I do not have the carbon plate for the sides and am thinking of phenolic as I have a load. Also, any other tips & hints would be gratefully received.

[@ROBRENZ]

Single ball joint on the first two joints. ball sizes sound good but the tube diameter is too small and length is way too long. Phenolic would work but will need to be much thicker like 10mm or more. Sorry to not be more specific but crazy busy right now.

[@rupertpowell]

@@ROBRENZ The single ball was something I pondered myself, but I thought you would have done that if it were a good idea. Maybe I am not such a dunce after all :-) Thanks for the advice. I will hopefully do a video of the making so you should see the finished results. I will be sure to point folks to you in the video. PS - Please make some more videos..... (when you get some time)

[@mikappa_knives]

Hello sir, do you think it could hold DSLR camera (1 kg) ? And how thick are the tubes please ? Thank you

[@liamshirley3099]

Any news on the V2? I'd really love to see what improvements you've made.

[@ROBRENZ]

Its only in my head right now but I know the direction I am going when I get a chance to work on it. Thanks for asking.

[@flintstoneengineering]

Hi Robin, has there been much tracking by the ball bearings in the aluminium between the detents over time?

[@ROBRENZ]

It still seems very crisp but I rarely move it from the under slung position.

[@kanibalhobo]

Nice design on the camera arm, not so great design for a bathroom though...

[@ROBRENZ]

Thanks, that white porcelain thing in the corner is the most important piece of equipment in the shop! Thanks for watching.

[@hdaround5086]

OR TWO LIKE THIS!

[@Erosgenuino]

tiene el plano de despiece?

[@ROBRENZ]

Not at full extension.

[@RaVeNMaddStudios]

Do you still use this? Have you made an improved design?

[@ROBRENZ]

Yes I use it all the time but I do see improvements that can be made. As is its still much more versatile than a tripod for my uses. When I do version II I will post a video about it.

[@RaVeNMaddStudios]

ROBRENZ This design would be perfect for my microphone. But I think I may try to lighten it up using pvc pipe and plastic washers and bearings for a smoother articulation....hard part is finding the right parts for the right price. If your ever looking to get rid of any, feel free to let me know!

[@hdaround5086]

HI ROB IS THAT POSSIBLE THAT YOU CAN SELL ME ONE OF THOSE , BUT WITH 4 CARBON PIPES LIKE THAT?

[@ROBRENZ]

Sorry, but no plans to make any at the moment. I have some improvements that I would include on a future version

[@dizzolve]

lol So many tools, you migrated into the bathroom ehh?

[@ROBRENZ]

Thanks and thanks for watching and commenting.

[@1musicsearcher]

God I'm lazy. I just use a Noga mag base with a 1/4-20 adapter for tha camera. Please forgive me.

[@ROBRENZ]

Are your Noga arms that long? Mine is barely long enough as is.

[@Neptune730]

Turn off the video!?!? Are you nuts? Now comes the best part. Thanks

[@TodorDelev]

wow, simply amazing !