DIY car jack stands

Make your own DIY car jack stands very cheaply that you can leave your car on.
This is not my idea, the original video can be found here: • CAR JACK STAND
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I have added 1mm steel plate on top and 2x 1mm steel plates underneath.
The rubber jack pad (amazon UK): amzn.to/2MiCD44 or ebay: ebay.us/Cn7RYY
12:41 all the dimensions of the DIY car jack stands
Disclaimer:
Use the information provided in this video at Your Own Risk. More molecules provides this video for informational purposes only and assumes no liability for any damage or loss incurred as a result of the use of the information or tools presented in this video. The information provided here may contain inaccuracies and more molecules cannot guarantee the correctness or reliability of the content.
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[@irongoose3865]

You need to make the base wider. Those boards you are using on the bottom will tip over standing them on there sides like that, lay them flat and use two or three of them. Or use a couple concrete blocks for the base instead. Mobile homes are setup on them all the time.

[@michelelanni9205]

Thats pretty cool to be honest

[@FloridaSalon]

Thank you!

[@andiabdillah1302]

Exelente

[@MattSeals]

Merely desired to mention I'm just relieved I happened on your video.

[@skim9722]

Have you ever made this for something wider than a scissor jack (like a standard hydraulic jack that is around 10" in width)? Wondering if something like this can support the weight of a car with more distance in the center.

[@moremolecules]

I have not, but it will depend on the strength of the wood I suppose. A thicker metal would probably be a good idea to spread the load.

[@crpth1]

In fact I was rumbling around that same concept for one of my floor jacks, which btw wasn't even very wide. I was using my smallest floor jack. Point being, forget it. It was a really bad idea. Not because some convoluted structural issue. But a rather practical and simple issue. The width of the entire assembly becomes way to wide and cumbersome. Defeating the practicality of the concept! The width of the assembly also creates another issue, lack of balance or hit the tire... Meaning when you (try to) center it on the car jack point. It can't center and simply hit the tire. Since it's unbalanced, it's not useful at all! Cheers PS: This concept absolutely depend on a narrow jack base! Even my 5T bottle jack has a too wide base to make it work. The catch is the distance of the car jack point to the tire. Can work on the back, but not on the front of the car ;-)

[@Quibus777]

Our hardware store sells these slabs of rubber to be placed under a washing machine, these are about as much as four little rubber pieces to put under the feet of washing machines yet lots more material. In used a slab to cut bands from and place 50x50x5cm concrete tiles on the septice tank stone two years back, we walk over them all the time and the rubber has no sign of deteriorating so do you think something like that could be used to cover the top of the standard?

[@moremolecules]

I used rubber piece that was specifically designed for lifting a car and it was branded as heavy duty. It is not at all heavy duty, it looks like it will disintegrate after a few more uses. I guess you can try with the washing machine rubber thing, it could be better than mine.

[@Quibus777]

@@moremolecules This is the slab i was talking about, its very stuff and strong,very hard to cut even with a raor sharp knife: www.bricodepot.fr/angouleme-champniers/tapis-anti-vibration-noir-mat-60-x-60-cm/prod52868/

[@crpth1]

@@moremolecules - For what it 's worth "I've been there, done that". Those jack pads are a waste of money in many (most) applications. On the car side, has you're noticing, very quickly they get cut by this type of "edge" lift point. Exactly the same happens on the jack side. A jack without a broad and smooth lift base. Will also cut it to pieces... All in all, I had much better luck with the regular left over pieces of wood! It's way cheaper also! ;-)

[@moremolecules]

@@crpth1 Yes, you are right about these rubber things. Probably a softer left over pieces of wood would be better

[@fungames24]

There' nothing wrong with the rubber. What you have is in fact perfect. You need something that yields so that it self-adapts to the car's rotation as the car is being raised. You can improve the safety further by having a larger base. A large base will prevent tipping over, and there will be more materials in the way to hold the car should things fall because of a minor earth quake. The slot for the jack should be as narrow as possible. This will further lower the stress on the bridge.

[@moremolecules]

Yes, wider base would work better, but the pinch point for my car is way too close to the front tyres and this was the widest I could fit. Appreciate the advice.

[@oldporkchops]

Adding another block of wood under where the jack goes improves safety.

[@daveh1081]

Jeeeeeeeez.....you have a thing about earthquakes!!

[@TheWilferch]

It WILL move fore-and-aft.....once the other 2 or 3 wheels are off the ground under a similar jackstand. The idea is good and clever...but the bottom higher supports need more fore-aft resistance.

[@moremolecules]

Many thanks for the comment. I have been using it for some time now and has not moved at all, although I do get the point. Depending on the position of the jack point the size of the blocks can be adjusted to be more stable.

[@TheWilferch]

@@moremolecules ...good show

[@holgi8854]

Nice idea. What kind of wood did you use? What are the measurements of the single parts?

[@moremolecules]

Hi Holgi, I used C16 CLS treated timber. The measurements of all the parts are at the very end of the video. It is pretty easy to build with the dimensions at the end of the video. Hope this helps.

[@ksk5517]

Most jack stands are very affordable, depending upon where you buy them, and probably cost less than the cost of your raw material.

[@moremolecules]

I completely agree that jack stands are quite cheap, but my problem was that there is only one strenghtened jacking point. In effect I have to jack the car at only one particular point. Of course, one can always put the stands somewhere under the frame and jack on the jacking point at the sills, but I always prefer the sills.

[@TheWilferch]

The problem is location. Often the "jack point" is all you can find to use...and once "jacked".....there is no other place to put the jackstands. The whole idea here is that the "lift location"..... is the same as the "jack-stand location".....

[@TheWilferch]

Funny.....every one of my scissors jacks....either kept from older Japanese cars ....or newly purchased from Harbor Freight, etc.... ALL need more clearance than what is provided by the two, stacked 2x4's shown for "legs" shown on the orginal vid (kzbin.info/www/bejne/oKGVdaSkgZh0Z8k).. Not a lot more, ....maybe 1/2" more, but it makes building this thing a bit more of a chore. Stacking 3-high of 2x4's for each leg would be too high.....some cars clearance wouldn't allow you to slip the unit under the sill. You need shim-stock or Luan board of fractional-inch thickness to "just" get clearance AND for it to be low enough to fit under cars.

[@megaeverything101]

Guess it did not work. No follow up video

[@moremolecules]

What are you refering to? The jack did work and I have been using it, but maybe it was something else.

[@soldrago4876]

This is dangerous 😳

[@dunaweezel]

This is a joke right?

[@Socks3657]

It’s an excellent idea when you don’t have where the fuck else to put a normal jack stand

[@rolandrimann8788]

No it's a bloody good idea ,thinking about making som myself.