DIY Electric Bike V2

4kW of power and a top speed of 34mph! Not bad for some 3D printed parts! This setup is super fun to ride, however it does require a few minor modifications. All stl 3D printer files are uploaded to my Patreon page! Support me for just $1 per month to gain access to all my future project files! / tomstanton
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Music: Phantom Sage - When I’m Gone [NCS Release]

[@bruceclothier8238]

I find it very endearing ( and very English ) how honest you are about your failures. Most of us try to hide our failures, but the man who never made a mistake never made anything

[@Mastermind391]

Thank you for showcasing how arduous design process can be. I know this video may have been made some time ago but it's good to know how others feel on how underappreciated little things like reprint times and video editing can mask truly how much work goes into a product

[@FredoCorleone]

I've done 1700km with Stanton's first version. I used the eBike all summer, I had to coat PLA pieces with resin to make those UV resistant. My motor is also sensored, even though it works well even with a simple ESC. With a 6 cells 16Ah LiPo I can run for about 80km@20km/h before running out of energy, and max speed is around 50km/h. The next eBike I want to build will make use of a car alternator and scraped batteries from laptops ;)

[@knicklichtjedi6833]

What kind of motor did you use, was it the same as Tom's?

[@grahambate3384]

Fredo do U have video on ur build

[@FredoCorleone]

@@grahambate3384 Nope! I don't think I'll make one as I'm bad doing vids xD So far I've been using it for about 5000+Km and it's still fine! I've been runt over by a car once that completely destroyed the prints, I've reprinted stuff and and fixed it no problems :)

[@FredoCorleone]

@@knicklichtjedi6833 Yes, the same motor but I've sensored it.

[@elliotpascoe3592]

I am also trying to re-create Tom's V1 bike, but the cost of a VESC is the main limiting factor for me. You said that it works fine with just a normal ESC, would u recommend getting a ESC or should I invest more in to a VESC? I was thinking of getting the FCESC 4.12 but it doesn't look like it can handle the high power requirements for the the bike. What VESC did you end up going with? What Normal ESC did you test?

[@djedUVprojector]

Inspired Mr Stanton, as a big believer in twin paired set ups. Each motor shares the work load, heat removal, reduced wear. All from a 3D printer, brilliant.

[@raidoenn8141]

I think, that for the second motor, you should just file the mounting holes a bit oblong, so that you can tension the belt without printing new sprockets. I can't tell how many times a file has saved me from remaking everything. As always, great video and greetings from Estonia.

[@gregoryblajian8951]

You need a belt tensioner. Reprinting the gears will only be a stop-gap as the belt will expand and contract (not much but a little) and the rotating motors will not maintain a constant distance in that mounting configuration.

[@sagetx]

You already have a brake on the rear wheel - 2 in fact! The VESC is engineered with regenerative braking. (neg)ppm values will engage brakes and put a bit of power back into the batteries. Might need a different throttle though, one with a center detent.

[@BobAlexander]

Or even better, a brake lever with a potentiometer on it to feed into the Arduino to override the throttle and tell the VESCs to brake.

[@ronagey1827]

Might I add to the topic? First, add a housing for the motor housing. Why? In part to keep you or others from accidentally losing finger[s] when you have the drive unut exposed as in this video. You could have the housing have plenty of air flow. Inside, add at least one high-speed fan to make sure that the air flow is strong enough to maintain a lower overall temperature. Secondly, you are using your current front-brake system in the current model. Have you thought of using that lever to apply both front and back brakes? I am thinking that you could use the travel and force of the handle. Basically, when you move the front-wheel brake lever, you use the electric information to cause the motors slow down and, thus, you have the rear wheel slowing. This will keep your bike from having the front wheel lock which might cause you bike to rotate over the front wheel which might ruin your day (if not your death). You can take feedback from the motors to keep the rate of decrease from burning your motors and/or stretching (breaking?) the belts. Finally, why not use gears to connect the motor drives instead of using the belt? That would be the approach to avoid stretching/breaking the motor belt. Why use two motors in the first place? A single motor system is so much better than the two-motor design from, at least from "number of things that can break" view. O!, I just wonder why you keep the batteries in your back pack instead of placing it to, at least, the horizonal bar that you show or just have it connected immediately under your electronics below your seat. Are the cables able to disconnect easily or would a fall force you to be linked to the bike? I love your design. Keep it up!

[@avelkm]

ABS (system, not plastic:) on the bicycle might be a bad idea (that's me driving bike to work for several years through city not suited for bikes). ABS will try to unblock wheels, and instead of falling (when both wheels are blocked) you will continue to run forward with breaks on low(ish). In city environment it is sometimes safer to fall then to move further forward few more meters. And in any case ABS should be installed on front wheel, not back one, as on the back wheel it would be just ineffective - blocking back wheel is not dangerous per se, and can be used in extreme maneuvers (aka street racers on a car do:)).

[@peterjensen6844]

Came here to say this. Those motors should easily be able to handle regen braking a la a Tesla or at least provide "thrust" reversing like a locomotive.

[@TonyGodshall]

Yes, regen should. Give you some braking effect. Brake with throttle first and friction second.

[@Mike-gr2ok]

Brilliant, now get some motorcycle gloves jacket trousers ect before you have to 3D print your own body parts dude 👍

[@MrMcChicken10]

Lol

[@Devantejah]

It's only slightly more than moped speeds, but a helmet would be prudent. But I would assume he already has got one.

[@wfalls9453]

👀

[@comodororelampago5656]

I loved it. I am a boy here from Brazil, I am studying your project, so far the one that most develops potential of harnessing electric power. I am in the beginning but I intend to replicate it.

[@BANGERS68]

W͓̽i͓̽n͓̽t͓̽e͓̽r͓̽ ͓̽ F͓̽a͓̽l͓̽l͓̽s͓̽ dude you just need a wedge between them too motors to stop them coming together

[@sssfsfdfsdsdffsfsdf4]

Put the secondary motor onto an eccentric mount where you can rotate it and then clamp it in place at the correct tension.

[@ATrustInThrust]

harry loud this

[@kerbalphysicist5909]

This video is a few years old by now, but that is one classy looking electric bike solution.

[@BB-mw9pu]

Yeah, I just stumbled upon it for the first time and I would have never guessed it's from mid-2017, it could have easily been yesterday and I'd believe it. It's awesome!

[@skinnyveganboy]

Have you considered using ultracapacitors in conjunction with either batteries or solar? Ultracapacitors could also be used to collect the regenerative energy during deceleration.

[@paulodeoliveira3368]

It looks awesome FAST!!! Next step regenerative braking!!!

[@Fred_the_1996]

It's just too heavy and expensive to pay off

[@anthonymendoza6528]

@@Fred_the_1996 regenerative breaking is not a separate mechanism, the breaking and thus the regeneration is done in the electric motor. a generator is just a normal motor used in reverse.

[@littlebigmanlbm]

I would also like to say that there are a lot of standard parts you could buy rather than 3D printing everything. Great video great project.

[@horak764]

Whats the point of owning a 3D printer then?

[@jeffbeck6501]

Man. I looked at that setup with that large gear on the wheel and a little belt and 2 pulleys and a motor, and it looks just so perfect just by looking at it, in terms of proportion and each component's purpose and weight and structure. It looks like it was designed perfectly for the motor to breathe and the belt to be the failure point if a disaster happens, like if the motor got hung somehow, like if a bearing went out. I have not seen either video of this bike before. I just saw him talk a few seconds and show the gear assembly from a far and you can easily see what it is, and how it works, and it just looks so well designed and proportioned. It looks like it would absolutely haul ass and for a low amount of power. Like it would be super efficient and super quiet, and I love the design, and I am a design freak so I would know. I am mesmerized by this bike, and that back assembly. You need to have that covered with a plate so nothing can get into that belt and cause injury. That little motor with that assembly gets very dangerous very quickly. Safety first. Beautiful design. I really enjoy the sincerity of ingenuity of your projects. And the science and design. Thank you.

[@jeffbeck6501]

ah, I just read it has 2 motors. So 2 motors and 1 pulley instead of the other way around. I thought that might be the case. That is they way I would have done it too. One motor that size will not yield enough power. With 2 motors, you only need one pulley. I can't wait to see this baby haul ass down the roadway.

[@MrCarlRobinson]

Disc brakes on the powered bike are a good idea.

[@Meatball2022]

Much better than the calipers given the power but I suspect it’ll cause alignment issues with his printed gear

[@justinbouchard]

My suggestion is to scrap the two motors connected idea. It's too many issues long term anyways. A bigger motor. Or, to keep the two motor idea, add one motor to the front tire as well. Also use a disc brake bike.

[@DBWesley]

I love the progress you've made on this project! Next thing you should do is upgrade your brakes to disc brakes. That would make sure you can have good stopping power

[@DefinedEdits]

I don't think it would matter. If you have enough braking power to lock your wheels the limiting factor becomes the tire compound not the brakes.

[@rogerkerkmann]

Fred Flintstone didn't have brakes :.)

[@richardbridgstock4636]

Hi Tom, Such a smart kiddie! Maybe a simple(ish) mod to relieve the squeeze on the motors by the small belt would be to incorporate a short shaft protruding from the back of each short belt pulley. A straight bar with a bearing for each shaft would hold the motors spaced correctly and relieve the tension.

[@Baws]

make a spacer between the motors? maybe something that can expand and tension the rear of the motors too

[@Baws]

Ah, the whole metal thing spins? thought it only was the plastic

[@reggiep75]

Skateboard bearings fitted into the pulley end caps and a turnbuckle would make an adjustable rung/spacer that could be moderately adjusted for plastic warping, belt slipping or belt stretching.

[@SuperGliderman]

I also thought about a spacer between the motors then realised that the outer casings spin

[@richbuilds_com]

You could attach the spacer to the back plate in a T-Shape. You'd have to put bearings on the ends of the spacer but it's doable.

[@Bordpie]

Yeah, add bearings to the end of the motor pulleys, and connect a floating link to hold the two motor pulleys apart against the tension of the belt more securely, removing the bending force on the main motor mount. The link could incorporate a belt tensioner of some sort as well.

[@bernardhollands5027]

I know I'm a little late.. but the reason your VESC was dying with 12s cells is because of voltage spikes, you can solder a TS diode on the + and - terminals of your VESC to suppress the spikes and run with more power.

[@artofwarandpeace9126]

One of the finest examples of ingenuity. I would love to collaborate with you on a regenerative system.

[@victorreppeto7050]

That bike really accelerates! I would like to see you install a spreader between the motors for belt tension then watch you climb the steepest hills you can find.

[@CalebGibbsAvenue]

Wow crazy build man congrats! I think I can see potential build kits coming from this idea!

[@the_matchless]

I have to say I have seen many e bike, some very professionally made but none had ever impressed me as much as this one. This is much more my kind of style you know all that minimalistic approach. I wish I could donate or even get a set to put on any bicycle of my choice. Great brilliant work 👍

[@asdfqwerasdfqwer3058]

Such a nice video! I love to hear you talking about tweaking and optimizing all those things. Also nice driving pictures! Please never stop to do such videos!

[@GluttonywithaGerman]

Only the vesc 6 runs 12s reliably. The drv on the 4 burns out over 10s. Get a motor with sensor wires from Flipsky to prevent stalling. Also the vesc supports sine wave modulation which also prevents stalling.

[@Buy-n-large]

you could machine a motor mount out of metal so you dont have to worry about the heat from the motors warping the mount.

[@ChriFux]

or just print it in petg 🤔

[@SeaMushroom98]

print two oval plates with two holes near each end. Between them you can put two delrin cyliners with off center holes. The delrin cylinders can be rotated like cams to provide tension and will slide well on the . belt with minimal wear

[@devincarson5978]

Add a adjustable brace between the motors.

[@alphonsotate2982]

Get the plastic parts made out of aluminum

[@badhairboyz1310]

You can’t because the motor can spins

[@matthewayala7357]

It appears your belts will heat up as you go and thus expand a little, a bracket placed between your motors can help keep them in place and you might need to redo the large gear so it has a lip on each side to keep it from slipping off that.

[@alanzhou858]

This video is quite old but the reason your vesc kept dying was either it was a badly made vesc or you didn't configure it right, people on the esk8 forums use good quality vesc at 12s without any issues, the cheap vesc made by maytech and flipsky are a mixed bag and are not official vesc. there based on vesc.

[@dylandreisbach1986]

Kv not standing for Kilovolts is why I switched from Eletrical-Mechanical to just Mechanical engineering. Not Kv specifically, but props to those who can keep all of the jumbles of letters and names for things straight in their heads. Amps=Current=I, like who thought that making one of the 3 most basic electrical measurements have 3 separate terms would be a good idea? I can understand gear ratios, not electrical efficiency. Again props to you if it makes sense because it does not make sense to me.

[@MarkoPetejan]

What about 2WD with single motor each?

[@andylutube]

Marko Petejan this is exactly what I want to see

[@Ki-yg1ds]

it sounds cool but it is really impractical unless you are going offroad then it would be sick

[@pragmatichuman722]

I’m about to do a build for my brother starting with front wheel motor , but I intend to add rear motor in future 👍🏼😜

[@federicogravante1172]

It's dangerous because the front wheel of the bike is not built for taking torque and after time It can fold and break

[@seanshaw8321]

fredrik 887 why would that be, the rim, spokes and number of spokes is normally the same front to back. The fork may or may not be an issue though?

[@SpyderKing34]

You should switch the whole set up to the front tire. Doing this allows you to still have back breaks as well as the ability to add regenerative breaking and generator peddle power.

[@SuperGliderman]

Now that bike is just mental Tom....I love it.Watched ur first version but have waited as I new you wud come out with a V2,Have gotten myself a bike to copy off you mind you although I like you fly planes helli's and got a half dozen quads including my phantom4 I am nearly 64 and been told am mental for wanting a bike like urs but will have to go through with it as will always wonder how good it is.Keep your vids coming Tom love watching them.I live in the UK maybe a news bulletin will soon say "crazy old man totalls himself on lecky bike'

[@TomStantonEngineering]

Haha ignore what others say and get that ebike going!! Thanks!

[@chrisbraid2907]

Your rear brake calliper could be mounted just behind your crank bearings either with two pieces of say 13mm x six mm clamping the frame tubes or by welding a five eighths inch cross tube with a hole drilled midway to mount the calliper , one temporary and one permanent option, then redirect the rear brake cable down the frame, hopefully it will fit.

[@danielmelsha1056]

Why don't you just put a brace between the motors, so they won't pull together?

[@umbrakinesis2011]

It looks like the cans themselves spin, which would mean a brace would have to contain a bearing or something or it would stop the motors.

[@delhiebert685]

Beautiful build. To correct the lopsidedness of the motors being off to one side, could the motor direction be reversed, then the motors flipped over and mounted above the rear wheel? Make the motor mounting/connecting plate out of 3/8" or even 1/2" thick aluminum plate, designing it where one motor could be adjusted back and forth to tighten or loosen the motor connecting belt. Another gain, the aluminum plate wouldn't be affected by heat from the motors. If needed (probably not needed with aluminum plate) make an adjusment mechanism between the two motors to keep them from pulling out of allignment under load.

[@ralphcoaquira2583]

Man this is awesome, how much it costs, I mean the electric and anything you added to the bike. Good job!

[@r.t.1942]

You could possibly mount the rear brake on the seat down tube between the crank and seat . And you maybe could put a 3d printed mounted bracket between the motors to keep them separated during acceleration

[@tomasbegley3032]

The vesc is dieing because its hitting the erpm limit and the drv chip struggles to send commands quickly enough and that results in the destruction of said chip This only happend on 12s because the speed was high enough to hit that 60k erpm commutation limit A safe bet with the vesc is 10s I am however running 12s but with a very low kv motor to stay away from that danger zone Hope this helps

[@casianb1]

I think it's dying because of having too long cables between the batteries and VESC. This causes very high inductance in the cables. It causes voltage spikes that get worse and worse as the erpm and switching frequencies of the mosfets increases. Voltage spikes that are way beyond the capacitors can handle. (the capacitors are there to reduce these spikes, but they have a limit too. You could add more caps in parallel, but you need special caps). You could be right though, but I think Vedder already taught about the problem, so he implemented a speed limiter. It limits the current the motor gets if it is close or reaches ~60000 erpm. I am not sure, I don't remember exactly.

[@locoragil8584]

Tomas Begley

[@victornpb]

Back emf when the bike is regenerating

[@shawncrocker7037]

That's awesome! You could incorporate bearings in the outer side of the pulleys. Then you could have a strut plugged into the ends of the pulleys forcing the motors to maintain there distance a keeping the belt tight under load.

[@creeek3]

Amazing video, first one i have seen of yours Really good! Good old UK roads :)

[@c1a9h9r9]

You can print inside the pulley, a little fan with 6 or 9 blades, they will have a double task, like structural piece to hold the puley, and cool the motors...

[@typxxilps]

Any updates ? Speed tickets, reliabilty, mileage done, ?

[@GeckoCkCkCk]

Rear caliper break can be placed under the chain stay tubes if there is a cross member. Could also install a coaster break. With all that power, disk breaks would be ideal for safety.

[@KetansaCreatesArt]

Tom, I have an Idea. The 3Dprinted cap gears on the top of motors should be attached to a common plate using bearings. This plate goes on top of both the motors, which will stabilise the unit and the pulley wont slip. This top plate can be secured with brackets to the bottom plate from both sides, leaving a clearance for the pulley belt. I hope you understood. :)

[@rayfridaymusic9072]

Kketansa Art you could also install an adjustable bearing to this plate (in contact with belt) that can increase tension to the belt between the two motors and can be tweaked for optimisation (similar to what you’ve done on the drive belt but one you can adjust)

[@chuckstutler7165]

Try making an adjustable idler pully that uses a steel hose clamp around the first motor. Good luck. You have a nice clean setup

[@peteryorke4147]

if the caps on the short belt side were made one piece the motors would stay parallel.

[@gryn4arlubitel209]

You could build a tensioner for the small belt that mounts between the motor barrels, with adjustable wheel that pushes on the belt from the outside. This will also relieve the motor mount tensions from the belt pulling the back end of the motors together. As for the rear brake, you may consider a drum brake or a coaster break. Good luck, awesome project!

[@lasersbee]

Time to quantify Range and Speed... Fast does not seem to cut it... A simple electronic bicycle Speed/Odometer would suffice...

[@yomumisminging]

You can mount the rear brakes at the chainstay connection to the bottom bracket if you add a mount for them. It's common on super aero rim brake bikes

[@usertogo]

could print in wax and do lost wax casting of aluminum instead?

[@aaronevan4065]

usertogo if you print pla with thin walls only 1 maybe 2 shells and a really low infill like 8% or lower you can do lost pla castings.

[@CartisanCrafts]

There is SLA resin for lost wax casting, no ash residue

[@faneos66]

Where can we buy these motors? Thank you

[@darbyjohnluke1236]

You can put rubber or pla bush between motors to stop them bending or pulling them towards each other while torquing...

[@lilsammich8252]

Shopping list: 3D printer and an entire machine shop. Me: Doh!

[@antonisautos8704]

You may have some belt slip because the torque from the motor is flexing your mounts. A second bracket between the two motors about 3/4 toward the rear might help that

[@buckstarchaser2376]

I hadn't finished the spool of PLA that came with my printer before switching to PETG. Why is it that people even use that stuff, with it's brittleness and poor heat performance? A possible workaround for the slipping belt version where each motor was pulling the belt would be to use a pinch roller that physically retains the belt against the pulley. A skateboard bearing should do the trick.

[@jam3sh3n13y]

You need to install a Springed tensioner on the smaller belt in between the motors. So it can automatically adjust its tension.

[@noticiasorg6325]

Eu não entendo nada de inglês, é uma pena . Pela velocidade da bike,seu trabalho ficou muito bom.

[@helioarouca1200]

Eae mano

[@Lucaslimapereira01]

Eu queria é os dados do projeto kkk

[@StanIvanov]

Since you're already using a huge reduction, why not drive with a wormscrew and couple the 2 motors shafts axially? The motor assy can be mounted to pivot on the wheel axle and you can add a rubber bumper radially to absorb sudden Accel/decel

[@odiewan67]

Well done, Tom! I am going to attempt this on one of my bikes.

[@isaacmadhavan]

All you need to do is put a wooden block in between the two motors to prevent bending and maintain tension. You can make that block in two pieces which can be forced apart with a bolt & nut to maintain even more tension.

[@sergcas5361]

How do you know when the vtec kicks in?

[@Ajaysingh-ps5zk]

Super

[@iamskoza]

Serg Cas you feel it and hear it

[@carmelpule6954]

Put an extension shaft on the outer end of each motor, then mount two bearings and introduce a distance piece so that at high power the motor will keep their outer distance. At 16:20 the slip will not be cured by making larger motor pulleys.

[@sohan2510]

What is the name/model of the motor ! Any aliexpress link ?

[@abdulangames4552]

Probably enigne motor 775. But I don't know. I think so It's motor 775.

[@aserta]

I would ditch the spokes of the pulley and find a kit that allows you to mount double (or a retrofit kit) disc brakes on the rear wheel. Then find the biggest disc brake you can get, and print the running gear on that. I would also switch to a much deeper toothed belt, preferably one off a large capacity factory fan.

[@suhailghazzawi2406]

1. now that you know the parts work, why don't you have then cast in aluminum and sell a kit. 2. as for the rear brake, can't you use the motors themselves. once you shut off power, they should provide resistance and generate power to charge the batteries. (AKA regenerative braking)

[@Bellezzasolo]

Selling a kit... that would be highly illegal. UK law is that anything over 15.5 mph, or not working through pedal assist, is a motorbike. As such, you then need to meet regulations for motorcycles. Now, while technically just using the thing on road is illegal, they're quiet roads. But, once you start selling a product, that's when the proverbial hits the fan.

[@bill_mccoy]

Nathaniel Cleland Then sell it as just a general purpose motor not only for bicycles

[@AshkerTalks]

Nathaniel Cleland you can limit the speed,add brake and sell it as a kit

[@cynthiaayers7696]

Don't let the bastards beat you down.

[@suhailghazzawi2406]

@@Bellezzasolo so sell it in the usa and india. huge markets different laws

[@chaiseballotti9124]

you could use a bracket near the back of the two motors to apply an opposing force. this would help with belt slippage and overall stability of the motor mounts

[@chaiseballotti9124]

never mind, just saw how old this video is.

[@cathallawlor989]

Pretty nice man. Good work also. It's pretty amazing what you've done with a 3D printer.

[@TomStantonEngineering]

Thanks man!

[@mikereiffin4618]

Hardrive33 ....bingo..

[@nathanwest2304]

I know this is really old, but I was wondering, why not just mount the motors on a steel plate? you could have mounted one motor with slots to adjust the belt tension or just add a tensioner that pushes on the middle or one that squeezes the belt on both sides to reduce the stress on the tensioner, that might even be possible with 3D Printing and some metal bits like rollers and screws.

[@topsecret1837]

With 3D printed parts you can reuse the plastic they’re made from with the right equipment to fabricate your own filament. With steel you’d have to somehow recast it into a mold without reducing its carbon content which is not unlikely.

[@nathanwest2304]

@@topsecret1837 plastic degrades with every time you heat it up also you would need to have a way of heating the plastic to exactly the right temperature and extrude the entire roll with a tolerance of 0.01mm across the entire legth steel is a lot stronger, unlless you screw up you don't need to reuse the material also, most steel of the world is made with scrap metal every tiome you melt steel you wanna make it a useable alloy after that part it doesn't really matter what shape the material has because you can bring it in to any shape you like

[@heltonoliveira394]

Olá, Tom, parabéns, gostei muito do seu projeto da bike...e gostaria de fazer uma outra mim aqui no Brasil, vc consegue me ajudar? Agradeço sua atenção. Abraço.

[@thecrazy8888]

You could easily fit a spacer between the two motors to prevent bending and even put a small tensioner on it. FYI All the projects were I ever had a PLA part under stress ended up bending over weeks... and OMG would be so nice if you geared it for power and took it mountain biking!

Hey Tom! Nice video again. I think I know what's smoking you'r VESCs. Are you using anti-spark connectors? The VESCs have some big capacitors close to the main board and with higher voltages the sparks gets worse while connecting the battery. You should try the XT90 antispark connectors like I do in my e-skateboard. I'm running the VESC from 12S Li-Po with no problems. My motor is 6374 149Kv and holly crap, I have to limit the current to 20A in the VESC otherwise I get thrown from the skateboard when giving full throttle hahaha

[@michaelmoske2503]

Théo Guterres super

[@isaiahspeights571]

I hope Tom looks at your comment because you're exactly right, without an anti spark used to complete a connection from battery to vesc the vesc is likely to fry no mater how low the series count.

[@lmaoroflcopter]

Don't worry about rear brake. 90% of your stopping power is from the front. On a motorbike you'd only really use the rear brake for slow speed manoeuvres or for settling the bike into a corner. Though I would definitely upgrade to discs.

[@Zenfield350]

Console less front in the wet

[@harrisontownend9146]

I have run front only, on a bicycle with such small surface area of the wheel touching the ground you can only apply so much force on the brakes before the tyre can't transfer the resistance into the ground and the tyre starts to slip, a lot of fixed gear bikers on very light bikes use front only for simplicity but they can reverse pedal to brake on the rear in emergencies, but on a heavier bike a good rider will use a strong mixture of front and back to transfer as much brake force to both tyres when needed but if you are going to coast on a brake you use the rear to stop the front sliding out

[@lmaoroflcopter]

@@harrisontownend9146 I used to ride approx 450 miles a week... On a bicycle. I can tell you with first hand experience from years of riding audax plus simple commuting a competent rider will quite happily moderate a front brake to provide all the stopping power it can without skidding or flipping the bike. The rear brake applies a tiny fraction of the stopping power a front brake can as the weight transfer to the front simply means the rear skids considerably earlier than the front would. Not to say it's useless but it isn't going to add much to a front brake setup.

[@harrisontownend9146]

@@lmaoroflcopter if you were riding 450miles then it would of been a relatively light bike, like I said a lot of road bikers etc ride front brakes only, it is a capable bike and yes unlike the front which gains more traction the rear loses, but on a heavier bike unless you are going dead straight it is easy to have the front wheel slip out, and there are situations often caused by others where you need to stop as fast as possible and that's going to be done with front and rear brakes, I've had a situation where coming back from work it started raining and although I was going slower to accommodate when going down a steep hill a car reversed out in front of me as soon as I started braking with front only as that's all I had due to the oily road it nearly instantly locked up and tried slipping out luckily the other car coming the other way stopped and I had to slide in between the two cars while one was still reversing out, if I had rear that could of been another story In an optimal world front only is perfectly fine, unfortunately other people use the road and when you are going 50kph on a bike the safest option is both

[@flagpoleeip]

Why not print a spacer for the motors to hold them apart? that would hold them apart.

[@jasonbirch1182]

Build a bearing plate to mount to the pulley end . It could have a tensioner as well.

[@faustdownunder]

A bit on the "courageous" side if you ask me. I have seen spokes breaking at high torque... Plus: safety? Single break.... hmmm

[@Me63422]

From experience when PLA warps because you've left it in a car. Submerge them in a hot water bath. They should form back to their original printed shape because of internal stresses. Obviously it depends on the parts, but from what I can tell is that you print things without supports meaning that it should still be able to hold its own in the quasi weightless environment in water. Not sure if that made any sense. Otherwise great videos, keep it up. From a fellow engineering student on the other side of the world.

[@torbenvoltmer]

Have you considered printing with petg instead of pla?

[@okfj]

Torben Voltmer how about printing in ABS? May need an enclosure for the cr-10, but it has a heated bed and should be able to print abs. Maybe PET is better than abs.

[@TomStantonEngineering]

I have! I actually planned to move to PETG if this didn't work. It 'works' but maybe I'll still move to PETG to improve it

[@DesignPrototypeTest]

Tom Stanton Hi Tom, you should reach out to Matter Hackers and see if they will give you some Taulman Nylon filament to test. They have a number of options. PETG would be a step up, but it is not as rigid as ABS. ABS was originally chemically designed for its ability to be injection molded easily. Nylon far surpasses all of these for strength rigidity and temperature resistance to deformation. Watch Tom Sanladerer's filament review videos ("filaween") to get an understanding of the strength differences between filaments. At any rate, with 21000 subscribers you should be able to get some filament company to send you some nylon filament free of charge. -A Fellow KZbinr

[@gillenzfluff8380]

Torben Voltmer How about 3d print then mold in aluminium!

[@torbenvoltmer]

okfj Well I think petg is a good compromise between strength/temperature resistance and printability... I personally haven't tried abs, but petg works quiet well on my machine. Tom Stanton Nice to here :) Gillenz Fluff If you really want it made out of aluminum, cnc machining is the way to go for something like this.

[@MakiMakixc]

I hope you put on some extra low ESR caps to account for the ripple that the fast switching produces. My guess is that that's the reason why your first VESCs broke so fast on 12S. Basicly the high switching together with long cables create voltage spikes that fry your electronics (espacially if you run on FOC). We eskaters and RC guys recommend 220µf per 10 cm cable length (more smaller capacitors are better than big ones) suited for 63V or higher.

[@9Miklas9]

Which ESC (VESC) you use in this bike, or you can recommend me some ESC for Turnigy 6374-192KV?? Thank for answer.

[@Pilesofplenty]

Pulley zipped to spokes is a good design, Keeps things simple. I used it on weed wacker bike build a few years back, also between 30-35 mph. Think my pulley was around 18". I used a steel shelving system track for the pulley!

[@sureshbhaiparekh6739]

"AFTER HOW MANY KM. AUR MILES THE MOTOR GETS HIT UP ?..WHAT DID YOU COST THE WHOLE PROJECT?..YES AND MOST IMPORTANT RARE BRAKE"

[@michaelanderson9792]

20-MPH is enough for me I am more interested in light long range 30 miles would work 60 miles would be perfect and a diy kit for sale

[@kevinmontoya7318]

I'm more interested in 73mph Enduro ebike with a 60 mile range

[@subhashgawarikar3396]

Nice. But I feel rear brake is more important and hence should not be compromised even while test run. Wish you good luck.

[@techs9115]

I think you doing good for inveroment and help people your idea so thanks your fath fully Rabbani Electric Contract we want wind technology car conversation kit in Bangalore

[@terryarnott4333]

a small adjustable bracket between the motors on the outer end, just before the outer pullies would let you HOLD the motors apart and tension the outer belt without continually having to reprint pullies every few days as the belt slowly stretches.

[@Klynder1]

Hi there. I'm not exactly sure what the reason is for the two motors instead of just a single bigger motor, but it's a fun build for sure. And it works :) Except the little belt, though. You need support for that, you cannot solve that by just tightening the belt. The motors might only lean inwards a little, but that means that the belt will always ride on one edge, even if you can get it tight enough (and that will definitely stress the motor mount). I suggest you make a supporting spacer on the two pulleys. Extend the pulleys with a shaft, mount a bearing, I'd suggest a simple ball bearing. See sketch: www.dropbox.com/s/4r72f1ujmspmgxl/temp.jpg?dl=0. I hope you add something along these lines, it'll greatly enhance the quality and durability, and it won't be too much trouble. You may experience the belt becoming loose after some time. You can make the spacer between the pulleys adjustable, but then you also need your motor bracket to be adjustable, so that your motors are always parallel. You might also get away with adding a manually adjusted idler pulley on the spacer between the pulleys. You shouldn't need a spring loaded idler. Who knows, maybe your belt won't give too much, and it'll be fine.

[@Klynder1]

Oh, and of course, 3D printed parts are fine, but a spacer such as this is easily cut in plywood or a few pieces of sheet metal. You probably don't have to redo the pulleys, if you can get to a lathe, perhaps you can make some shaft bits that screw in on top of the small pulleys (if the four bolts leave room for a shaft between them).

[@Bordpie]

That's exactly what I was thinking.

[@TomStantonEngineering]

+Mikael Klynder the reason for going with two smaller motors over one larger motor is due to the VESCs only being able to deliver 50A constant. So would need a higher power speed controller with current limiting capabilities. I'm working on a half 3D printed, half aluminium motor mount now that will allow for motor spacing adjustment. The belt didn't slip too bad at first, but it has definitely got worse due to stretching. So hopefully the added strength of the aluminium bracket and the adjustability of the motors should fix the slipping issues. If not, I'll look into adding support to the other ends if the motors. Thanks!

[@gillenzfluff8380]

Mikael Klynder If 1 burns out you still have 1!

[@Klynder1]

Gillenz Fluff Haha, I'd rather go with Tom's explanation that his other parts could only handle the smaller motors ☺️ While it IS true that one motor burning out leaves you one still functioning, here are the downsides (that I can think of at the moment): - double the risk that a motor will burn out 🙃 - added complexity - more parts - additional points of failure - added mass - lower efficiency (connecting belt plus an extra motor with internal losses, e.g. bearings). - definitely higher cost... ... but I get that Tom already had many of the parts, making this solution a good choice for this particular case 😃 (and fun)!

[@arthurneddysmith]

What about a bracket between the two motors that pushes them apart slightly? That would help to fight against the force of the smaller belt pulling them towards each other and creating the belt skip.

[@gamurarandrei2657]

what motor are you using?

[@TomStantonEngineering]

It's a Turnigy 6374 192kv from Hobbyking

[@robnic52]

Possibly adding a block or spacer strut between the two motor bodies might stop them flexing the mounting bolts or the plate if that is causing the slippage? Finned aluminium could extend out and around to help aircool the motors?

[@SomeGuy-ws5zj]

Man, use a motorbike helmet. You are going at lightning speed.

[@viscache1]

Just move the rear brake system to the vertical stand bar of the frame. Works for racing bikes!

[@indra-fu1ew]

4kW? Are you kidding us?

[@MrPetersen44]

500 w maximum

[@fromoutside6861]

depends on the speed of rotation

[@girlsdrinkfeck]

more torque than speed

[@user-nq2dx8rv9c]

Certainly

[@kagomokone2255]

Aaahh 4kw ??? You surr

[@linwoodhudson2722]

You need to add a tensioner in between the 2 pulleys ,press in, don't pull the belt out, that will fix your constant resizing of the pulley drives

[@chickensfloat7427]

I think it would be cool to replicate this. I dont have a 3d printer but my dad has inherited my hreat grand dathers machine tools so i think we could make a similar thing.

[@littlebigmanlbm]

Hello, great videos. One comment from me why not insert a brace between the two motors with a tension bearing as you call in or a jokey wheel as I would? it would help prevent the motors bending in and give you the advantage of a belt tensioner. Just a thought

[@MathTHEdj]

- I just gona double double the power - why - by this way people will see that my bike is a beast ! -..

[@ldmcnutt]

If your primary drive is slipping, the answer is to use a larger single motor so that you don’t have a primary drive/secondary drive to deal with. Right now you are using 2 motors rated at like 2,500 watts each, but can only use like 2,500 watts total before it slips? Then why not use something a 4kw motor with a higher kv, but a lower gear ratio? The lower the gear ratio, the easier your belt can handle the torque. Also, with no rear brake, the ideal solution would be to have an electronic controller that does regenerative braking operated by the rear brake handle. Then you could extend your range while providing reasonable braking and just use the front brake for emergency stops.

[@leahparsuidualc666]

ahem ... no rear-brake .. 2 motors . You Sir, are a devil!