DIY Honda 3rd Generation Honda Odyssey Timing Belt Replacement

My video showing the basic steps in how to conduct your own timing belt replacement on a 3rd generation (2005-2010) Honda Odyssey minivan. My particular model is the J35A7 V6 VTEC engine with VCM (variable Cylinder Management) technology. This task can be tedious and should only be done by those that are extremely comfortable with working with vehicles. Use this video tutorial at your own risk as I assume no responsibility or liability should something go wrong. It is advisable to make sure you have the necessary tools and factory service manual handy and if in doubt please consult a professional.
My tutorial is for a 2006 EX-L/Touring model although the procedure essentially is the same for all Honda J35 V6 series engines.

[@toddu2342]

actually the most dedicated camera man ever

[@piercedasian]

oh man, I think out of all my KZbin videos this one was by FAR the toughest one I did. You have no idea how long it too me to get this produced properly.

[@nfields64]

This video was GOD sent. I had a lot of obstacles with my 2014 Odyssey but this step by step video was a life saver. Crankshaft bolt was the hardest but it can be done. I thank GOD for you. Everything he shared is correct and everything he shared is important. Thank you, Thank you, Thank you!!!

[@piercedasian]

you're most welcome. Glad you liked the video and thanks for endorsing my video to my viewers!

[@cbarucci]

Your videos are outstanding. I recently flushed and replaced the reservoir in my '07 Odyssey following your instructions and it went perfectly. I am going to do the serpentine belt and tensioner this winter, and then in the summer do the timing belt, tensioner, and water pump using your video as a reference. I greatly appreciate the extreme detail you put into these videos. They are invaluable.

[@GregorioCeballos25]

. .....

[@RR-iq8ze]

I had one of the belts replaced a few months ago (possibly serpentine), but now I am confused as to which one needs to be replaced. I think I need to get the timing belt replaced, but based on your comments, it sounds like I am getting confused by tensioner and the timing belt. I didn't realize that there are two other belts. Plus, you mentioned that you are going to the the serpentine and tensioner and then the timing and the tensioner.

[@BigEsTruckstop]

I want to thank you for posting this, it was extremely helpful. Here are my notes for anyone else using this. There are two types of crank bolt tools, he is using the much more expensive one, do not use the cheap one. After a complication during setting the alignment marks I had to get the crank bolt out without the balancer installed. I used the starter method to get the bolt out and it was quite effective. I removed the ecm and bracket as one piece. I am a shade tree mechanic and have taken on projects of varying complexity, this was probably my most ambitious project on a daily driver. It took me 13.5 hours, but that included a parts run. I was very careful to write notes and bag all hardware which made reassembly much easier. I also replaced the water pump and pulleys since I'm at 150k miles. I also put in new plugs and motor mount.

[@piercedasian]

glad you liked the video and thanks for sharing your tips.

[@fryreartechnology7611]

Awesome video!! Took advise of other cracking the bolt on the crank looses first. I'm shocked how tight it was and how hard it popped when coming looses. You have to have the odd Honda socket but Amazon had one for $15 don't need that silly heavy socket (my Milwaukee high torque didn't do it and it typically does everything on the heavy equipment I work on) but this was a great how to video I watched some parts more then I should have but easy 8-10 job at home with my 6 years helps. This $500 van has been a great investment teaching him how to work on stuff. Many small project ahead but this was a helpful video. 🥰

[@superjon78]

I want to thank you for taking the time to put this excellent video together. I just did the complete timing belt on my 2007 odyssey this past Saturday with absolutely no problems. You did a great job making sure to identify all the bolts and fasteners to remove/loosen which otherwise could make a job go south really fast. I greatly appreciate it!

[@piercedasian]

glad you liked my video! Thanks for watching and don't forget to give me a "thumbs up" and consider subscribing to my channel as it does help me with producing future content!

[@martinradtke5181]

I'm going to do my own 2015 timing belt & valve adjustment next year. Thanks for video. I plan to take my time and take lots of pictures.

[@dads3boys]

Thanks for the video. To ensure the belt is properly aligned when re-installed, what do you think about putting chalk lines at the intersecting points of the old belt and corresponding points of the pulleys for points A, C and E? Then after taking off the old belt, you can transfer the marks to the new belt simply by counting the corresponding threads. I used this method when a changed a belt on a Volvo and it worked well. It just seems a little more precise then trying to interpret that the belt is "tight enough". Your thoughts. Thanks again for taking the time to put the video together.

[@mitchhayes1969]

Thanks a ton for posting this video. I have rebuilt car and boat engines many times and can figure out almost anything mechanical, but even with the factory service manual in hand, the Honda timing belt is like something from another planet. This video made it easy (with the exception of busting loose that pesky crankshaft bolt! Great job on the video. You have performed a public service.

[@piercedasian]

glad you found my video useful! Thanks for watching!

[@josephchandler2302]

I wanted to drop by and say THANK YOU! I used your tutorial to complete the timing belt change on my 07' Odyssey. I also did some other things along the way. This has opened my eyes quite a bit to the importance of timing belt maintenance and what all this stuff does inside the engine. The only thing I did differently was that I used the "starter method" to break the crankshaft bolt. I literally broke two extensions trying to do it the other way. I had to reconnect the battery and ECM module but after that it was a... Snap. I owe you a drink ole friend. I feel like we're pals after spending two days watching this video... Haha.

[@piercedasian]

Joseph Chandler lol glad you got your belt replaced and everything buttoned back up! Yes the key to any car's longevity is maintenance. Lack of it means unpredictable and often costly failures not to mention the dangers of breaking down and added inconvenience that all could have been avoided if things were replaced or fixed at the proper intervals. Next time you are in Alberta Canada we'll go for a drink!

[@nightranger4117]

Hey Pierce. Thanks for your response on the timing belt. I will delay it until the weather gets better. I have 78000 now on my 06 Odyssey, and I have a trip to Florida planned so I hope the original belt holds. I have faith in it as I have never heard of an Odyssey timing belt breaking as long as it was changed at Hondas interval. I will do it in the spring with new water pump, tensioner, and pulleys, and serpentine belt.

[@randyw9888]

Great video! After watching your video I've got no doubt that I can complete the job without any hassles. It may be a long video but well worth watching as you've clearly described all the little issues that one would run into when doing the TB replacement. I'll be taking this task on in my Red Deer garage within the next week or so.

[@piercedasian]

Hi Randy, glad you appreciate the crazy long video as some have actually told me it contained too much detail! When it comes to a timing belt I don't think omitted important details is a good idea. Let's all agree that we should all err on the safe side right? Red Deer? Nice and close to me too! Good luck and don't forget to "like and subscribe!"

[@xsite100]

Thanks for taking the time making and posting this video. I paired this excellent video with the Odyssey Service Manual to replace the TB and WP on my 2006 Odyssey EX. I haven't done any major car repair other than the typical change oil/fluids and brakes but your video (and the cost) provided me with confidence to tackle this job. It took me a day and a half to finish this job mainly because of lack of appropriate tools and making sure that CP and both camshafts are in TDC. I was surprised that I didn't spend too much time taking the crankshaft bolt, I soaked it with PB Blaster overnight and uses your approach to break it loose. What took me a while was the removal of that pin on the new hydraulic tensioner, that pin is really really stuck in there. Thanks again for posting this video and please continue posting videos related to odyssey!!!

[@piercedasian]

Elmer A Hi Elmer, this video was probably the toughest and most painfully long drawn out one I've ever done as the level of detail in it was absolutely mind boggling. I think I spent a good 10 hours video capturing it all while narrating the entire process. The outtakes I had were quite "colourful" as my energy level and patience tolerance was wearing thin at the very end. In the end I'm glad that folks like my vid and that to me made it all worth the effort. The crank bolt wasn't too bad on mine but that is b/c I also used a 8 ft cheater pipe on the end of the breaker bar which makes a HUGE difference on the amount of torque you can put onto the end of a breaker bar. Definitely worth the money to buy something long. Yes that tensioner pin is super tight but just remember the forces acting on that pin. 1.5 days to complete a job? That's not bad when you consider that you've never taken anything major apart so good for you! I try my best to make more videos - subscribe to my channel for all the latest in DIY for cars and random topics :)

[@thomasphilyaw8593]

Went to PepBoys to get the loaner tool for the crank bolt to retorque nut but it was out. Ended up making my own out of pipe fittings. The crank bolt was not loose but I did get some good movement. Air wrench was definitely not enough torque. Thanks again for taking your time to make the video and sharing your vast knowledge with us weekend mechanics! TomP.

[@piercedasian]

@ Tomas Philyaw - yep, sometimes you can get creative by making your own tools. Definitely something that I totally agree with. We fix our own cars because we don't trust others to fix it right or to be reasonable in cost hence why I do all this car work for myself and others :) I'm just happy that viewers of this vid have saved a bunch of beer money for themselves :)

[@corug7]

Thanks so much for this walk through. It took me a couple days but when I was done the car started and my tensioner rattle was gone. Well done.

[@piercedasian]

Glad it helped!

[@Roadnuts86]

Hey Pierce, just a quick note to thank you for the very helpful video! I tackled the timing belt and tensioner on my wife's 07 VCM 3.5L, and thanks to you, it went very smoothly! I also just wanted to add a couple notes that applied to my USDM vehicle. I did not have to disconnect the P/S pump hose, I simply used a bungie to hold it up and out of the way. No leaks! Also, my crank bolt was very tight like you mention. I have the luxury of using a lift for the job, and ended up wedging the crank tool between the axle and a-arm. Using the extensions that you showed was just not working for me. There was too much flex going on. All in all, couldn't have done it without you! Thanks again! Rod.

[@piercedasian]

The PS pump removal isn't completely necessary but I did so b/c I wanted to have as much room as I could AND not run the risk of breaking any of my PS hoses as the high pressure one could be pricey if damaged. Lift? Lucky man you are! I wish I had one as I'm sure I'd be publishing videos daily if that were the case! Flex in the extensions? Yes, sometimes there can be a quite a bit of flex but it does work if you try hard enough like I have to in my garage :) Glad you were able to change out your own belt.

[@JohnUllrey]

Thank you for making such a thorough video. Based on some other videos I saw, I was able to remove the ECU bracket with the ECU still attached which saved a step. And by using a universal/wobble attachment on my ratchet I was able to take out the whole chassis engine mount without separating it at the rubber bushing. The crank bolt was a bear. I originally tried to use the "Lisle 77080 19 mm Harmonic Balancer Socket for Honda" with my Bostitch (500ft-lbs) and a friend's Ingersoll (600ft-lbs) at 100psi and neither one could do the job. I ended up using a 5 foot cheater bar to get it done. Thanks again, you make great (super helpful and thorough) auto repair videos. - Cheers!

[@piercedasian]

Hey John, glad you liked the video. A HUGE amount of time went into making this video because I felt that the dealerships were charging way more than they should for a relatively straightforward job. Figured that since I have a skill to fix cars that I may as well teach others. It is my way of giving back to society. Yes that crank bolt is a BEAR to deal with and I have never been able to break the V6 crank bolts look without using a cheater bar. In any case I am pleased to hear you got yourself all fixed up and was able to save a ton of cash!

[@nightranger4117]

Finally did it Pierce. Did the timing belt install with water pump, and it runs perfectly. I had a heck of a time getting it apart, and I lost tools and got others(cheater pipe), but its done. I would say a solid 18 hours, some of that getting tools that I broke. I got a Goodyear TBK for 100 bucks with GMB water pump and pulleys, and they perform well. Used Honda coolant, and a Bando serpentine belt. Thanks again for your video! My 06 Odyssey is done! Thanks for the video!

[@piercedasian]

You're welcome! wow 18 hours? Good job that you got it done and you saved a PILE of cash in doing so. Great job!

[@jamilahtuyisenge8227]

​@@piercedasian where are you located? I want to get mine done too. Bought it few weeks ago and don't know when was the last one changed. So I just to play safe before damaging the engine

[@marlonoriley8821]

@@jamilahtuyisenge8227he’s in Canada. I’m doing mine this weekend here in California. It’s worth the headache tbh

[@mountainmanmike8383]

this is a great video. we used this two years ago to do our van timing belt. we have 90,000 more miles and were back two years later, watching it again. great information. our honda garage wanted $2,500 to do this. We got a kit with new serpentine belt and water pump for $299.

[@piercedasian]

wow that is amazing! Good to hear that the first round replacement went well and you liked my video so much that you're a repeat customer! Glad to hear and good luck with the change!

[@timocallaghan5804]

This is amazing video....i have the shop instructions but it didn't talk about taking out the power steering pump or the electronic module on the left...and metal plate ..... the job would have been impossible without doing that.. Thanks SOO much for taking the time to do a detailed video....keep up the amazing videos !

[@piercedasian]

you're most welcome. Thank you for watching!

[@mattbunke2661]

Thank you for putting this together, this was my main video I used to change the timing belt on a 2009 Odyssey which had the original belt and 198,000 miles on it. I replaced a lot of other items as well and used other videos as aids but this was my main step by step guide. Took 2 1/2 days as this was my first time changing a timing belt. The one huge tip I would say would be to use white-out corrective fluid to mark the old belt, cams, and main drive gear. Then transfer the marks to the new belt, making darn sure that the line up tooth for tooth. My rear cam rotated 1/4 turn with the belt off and I thought it was over, but the marks on the belt and cam saved the engine as I just turned the rear came counter clockwise to have it align back where it was.

[@piercedasian]

Hey Matt! Congrats on a job well done. Wow 2.5 days to complete? I remember the very first t-belt I did and yeah that timeframe sounds about right :). Good tip on the marking of the belt. I tend to not do that b/c knowing my luck that I'd somehow transfer the marks incorrectly to the new belt and bugger things up badly. I'd rather (b/c of the fact that work on cars semi-professionally) be well versed in doing this so well blindfolded that it forces my hand to know how to install timing belts perfectly. Not saying your suggestion is no good, it's really good but doesn't work for me. Thanks for stopping job and again, well done on the hard work!

[@crymearivvver]

Wow. You rock brother! I so didn't want to watch another cheesy video for almost an hour but your voice tone and how much detail you gave in doing this job kept me rivited and hoping it wouldn't end in hopes that I would learn as much as you know. Ty bro. Rock on

[@piercedasian]

glad you liked the video. Yes my details are quite verbose and detailed but it HAS to be because of the nature of the work. You'd be amazed at how many people complain the vids drag on for too long!

[@unlearn15]

nice video, very informative, well articulated, great instructions. i just bought a 2006 honda odyssey with 117k KMs on it and the timing belt hadn't been done yet, i paid a shop to put it in ($650) and i'm kind of glad I did. looks like a big job requiring lots of time which i don't have. But I'd like to thank you for putting in your time and effort and giving me insight on what it takes for a job like this.

[@piercedasian]

you're very welcome. Yes the work can be rather involved especially if you've never tackled a timing belt before. If I had to do it again I would but my back would be telling me otherwise!

[@Tootszee]

A word of thanks for a comprehensive video which made my 2007 Odyssey timing belt replacement less daunting...

[@piercedasian]

You're most welcome. Glad I could be of assistance!

[@metaldragon24x7]

Thanks for the outstanding video ! I have done simple jobs on my Odyssey - brake job, serpentine belt, etc and was searching for knowledge & courage to graduate to this daunting one ;-) I will be watching this a few more times, otherwise my Ody will live out its life on jack stands ;-(. Thanks again for sharing !

[@piercedasian]

ah yes, graduating to timing belt work... I remember that hallmark moment! Yes it is daunting but only if you're ill equipped and not clearly informed of what to do and expect. Yes definitely watch my video until you can remember absolutely everything so that there is hardly any opportunity for you to mess up.

[@pricecampbell]

Iv also got a 2007 Odyssey, Thank you for posting this video! Because of your detail and hard work I dont want to do this job, it seems too much for me. But your explanation was the best timing belt tutorial Iv seen online. This job scares the crap out of me (Iv done CV joints and other kinda complicated stuff).

[@piercedasian]

Glad you liked the video. The timing belt is pretty easy to do as long as you follow the steps exactly as shown and make sure you have a helper and all the required tools. About 4-5 hours and a 6 pack of beer and you'll be done in no time. I just did a 2011 Odyssey in my garage when I had a few hours to spare and it went without a hitch :)

[@tommoran2113]

Special Thanks again......Just did a 2005 Honda Odyssey timing belt and water pump, just like the kit you had. All went well, patience is need at certain spots. But boy is that crank bolt tight!!!!! Took and impact and the heavy duty 19mm to get it off. My van had 218k and never had been replaced, the belt was so far stretch out it could keep timed. So glad it didn't break.

[@piercedasian]

good thing you managed to replace it when you did. If that belt broke you'd be in for a world of hurt as the cylinder heads will need to be completely rebuilt.

[@donaldchaplin2564]

Thank you for such a detailed video. I'm in the middle of changing the timing belt on a friend's 2005 Odyssey. One tip I might relay to you concerning the crankshaft bolt removal. I rented the Honda tool that holds the crankshaft pulley and attached a 1/2" breaker bar to it, then inserted it into the pulley. I turned the engine over enough to let the breaker bar catch on the lower control arm. Next I put the key in the ignition and barely bumped the engine over. Technically you should disable the fuel pump and run the engine out of gas first. But I barely bumped the starter and it popped the bolt loose like magic. Hopefully this might somebody else in the future. I broke a 1/2" extension the first time I tried breaking it loose the normal way. Once again, thanks for all the great information. Not boring in the least. Right to the point. Thank you, Donald C.

[@piercedasian]

you're very welcome. Yes I have heard of others using the started to break the bolt loose but that terrifies me because a lot of things can break or go wrong if the setup isn't done correctly. Good old manual grunt power for me.

[@thomasphilyaw8593]

Thank you for the great video and inside little tricks to save time. Got stuck on removing crank bolt since I did not have special Honda tool. Tried for 1 and a half hours with no luck. Looked on the web and found video of guy using the starter method. Gave it a try and it worked like a charm. Have to go find special tool to torque nut though, only used my air gun, but after watching the end of your video it needs more torque. Thanks again video was a life saver...money saver too! TomP.

[@piercedasian]

@ Thomas Philyaw - yes the starter method would work but I've always been leary of doing so for fear of breaking something. Starters have HUGE amounts of torque so it is no surprise that it broke that bolt free.

[@ron228rj]

Great video! I followed it easily. I did use the starter to remove the crank pulley bolt. There is an easy way for one person to remove and replace the serpentine belt. Put a breaker bar on the tensioner from the bottom. Then use a bar clamp that is set to spread and put it between the lower control arm and the handle of the breaker bar. Squeeze and spread the bar clamp until the serpentine belt is loose. Easy peasy!

[@piercedasian]

Interesting tip. Thanks for sharing that!

[@scottcutler3035]

I love your video! I got a code on my '07 Odyssey EXL that the camshaft position sensor was going bad (also known as the TDC sensor). I watched your video closely because I had to take off the timing belt to get to that sensor and you helped me 90% of the way. On the last part I messed up and turned the front camshaft without the timing belt on and bent up some valves, so I got the lovely experience of taking the heads off as well. Turns out my front camshaft had damage (probably because the previous owner hadn't changed the oil much) so at least there was some justification for all that extra work. I also got to do a valve adjustment which was not bad except for the exhaust valves nearest the firewall that you have to do almost entirely by feel. Anyway, I did a lot of turning of the crankshaft to adjust the valves and whatnot and I learned that you can just put the bolt back on the crankshaft after the big pulley is off. In this video you put the engine mount, lower timing cover, and crankshaft pulley back on before cranking the engine around a few times to make sure the timing was correct. If you leave all that off and just put the bolt back in the crankshaft, you can crank it around and check the timing without having to redo that nightmare crankshaft pulley if you made a mistake. This helped me a lot because I was one tooth off on the rear camshaft pulley on my first attempt to put it back on. I was able to fix it quickly. When you're ready to reassemble, just use an air impact wrench and the bolt comes off the crankshaft easily without moving it.

[@piercedasian]

wow that sucks that you had to do so much work! I can't believe you had to pull the heads off. If I had to tackle that I'd be super peed off but to your point you discovered camshaft damage so at least you were able to fix it right. Hopefully you're up and running all good now.

[@salvageparts6317]

Great video man!!! I really appreciate you taking your time to explain each part in detail and not rushing through the process

[@piercedasian]

Glad it was helpful!

[@IronMan-ml5yi]

Bud your video helped me do my belt in my 2005 odyssey. I did mine at 116k and water pump and idler and tensioner pully. Again thank you for your throughness,.

[@piercedasian]

glad you got your t-belt and water pump all fixed up! Thanks for watching the vid!

[@metaldragon24x7]

Outstanding video. Takes me a step closer to trying it. Helps a lot that you showed all bolt positions esp. concealed bolts, during disassembly.

[@piercedasian]

the devil is in the details. I'm glad you liked my vid. Thanks for watching!

[@piercedasian]

youngcholy1 I do not have a video done of the alternator replacement yet. Mine fortunately hasn't failed me yet although I am getting VERY close to needing to replace the bearings and brushes on mine as part of preventative maintenance. Stay tuned and I'lll see what I can do to make one. If it isn't too crazy to replace I'll even consider unbolting mine just to demonstrate how to remove it.

[@bigmach5796]

One of the best videos I ever seen.. Paid attention to detail. Made sure the camera was able to see what u seen. Great word selection. GREAT VIDEO. On a scale of 1 to 10. I give it a 50!! Couldn't of asked for more!

[@piercedasian]

Glad you found the video useful. Yes it took forever to film this entire process properly. I think I invested over 30 hours creating this video. Admittedly I liked how detailed it was too :)

[@ericburkholder477]

I’m doing this on the weekend and you explained this very well.

[@piercedasian]

Glad you liked the video!

[@fromundadeez4823]

I’m replacing the crank pulley on mine, I came to verify that it can be done without power tools and heat. You didn’t show the removal but I’m assuming with a long enough breaker bar like yours that it’s achievable. Appreciate the video and good luck to anyone diving into the timing belt job.

[@piercedasian]

Yes I used a long breaker bar and the honda crank pulley holder tool. I didn't film it b/c I didn't have someone to film the process.

[@ThePalanalf]

Excellent detail and very informative. I won't be performing this task and will defer to a professional mechanic. Others, I'm sure, would have more confidence to tackle this task. If you watch this video as a guide, it will be very helpful.

[@diedericho]

Great video! I think it is necessary to thread the battery clamp to install the T-B tensioner in order to minimize the kick on the tensioner pulley bracket once you take the grenade pin out. I read somewhere about that tensioner pulley being broken at the point where the tensioner rod lies.

[@piercedasian]

Thanks! I thought the same thing but after replacing so many timing belts on V6's that there has never been an issue with the tensioner and the pulley. The tensioner doesn't snap out, it is surprisingly smooth (still fast) but not "snap action" fast. I've actually wondered myself all the time WHY the rod was needed. Guys at the Honda dealership (where I worked at one point in history) never used the rod and did exactly what I did in the vid. I would love to have a chat with a Honda engine engineer to understand the "whys" to certain things.

[@brucejonsson3149]

This was the best video I found for a description on replacing the timing belt. I had a great deal of problems installing the timing belt. I marked the old timing belt before removing it and transcribed them onto the new timing belt. No matter hard pulled push and shoved I could not stretch the belt to the tooth on the front cam. I finally rotated the cam about a 1/4 tooth to grab the correct tooth then rotate the cam back to the timing mark. Same problem occurred on the rear cam. I can't understand how to get the belt can get over the outer ridge on the sprocket and be lined up with the tooth as ridge requires extra distance for the belt. In the case on the back I rotated the engine backwards (both crank and front cam) a quarter tooth. Even with the teeth lined up it was very difficult to get the timing belt under the ledge. Finally there was no way by myself to get the belt over the tensioner. I had to have someone hold the rear cam while rotating the crank clockwise creating enough slack for the belt to slip over the tensioner. When finished I verified the timing several times by rotating the crank through several TDCs. This last problem could have been caused because the pin holding the hydraulic tensoner bent.

[@piercedasian]

Glad you liked this video. I will admit it was BRUTALLY hard to document this particular one. I think I spent the greater part of 40 hours recording, documenting and rerecording (and redoing the actual work) to ensure I captured accurately the work that had to be done. I'm glad it worked out for you b/c if you were off slightly that you could've ruined your motor.

[@aasomekhokhar5024]

Man, this was The Best instructional video ever. I am about to take on this job on my 2006 Odyssey Touring with 106,000 miles. I am told to replace every thing under the timing cover, for example, if you replaced the belt and put it all together and the any of the pulleys or the water pump starts to leak, you have to do the whole thing all over and spent 5-6 hours. I am think about replacing the belt, tensioner, idler pulley, tensioner pulley, water pump and camshaft seals. your thoughts Thanx

[@fixitup4203]

....by the way.....excellent video and commentary. It helped me understand exactly what my mechanic is going to be doing with my 2009 Honda Odyssey next week!.....Sounds like keeping your TDC in order is essential.....

[@piercedasian]

+Fixitup Glad you liked the video - yes TDC on ANY Honda is insanely important. If you're off and you start the engine you can kill the engine goodbye as the pistons with collide with the valves which will bend them in the head.

[@PaulNaylor3]

Fixitup Do you remember how much this repair cost?

[@brazenbunnies]

Thanks so much for sharing this video. It was very thorough and a big help. I have done a lot of work on my car, but this was the biggest job, and it would have been tough without this video. I especially like that you kept warning us to make sure the synchronization was perfect. It would be easy to be off by a tooth. To break the crank pulley, I used Robert DIY's method of not using extensions (as I don't own 1/2 inch extensions), and it worked well. Great job...I only wish you replaced the water pump also since I did that at the same time.

[@piercedasian]

Glad you were able to replace your own timing belt. The water pump from my experience will go easily past 200, 000kms usually without even developing a leak. I just replaced my timing belt on Odyssey again (yes I've already put on 100, 000kms in less than 3 years). My water pump at 199, 000 kms didn't even squeak or leak a drop of coolant. Depends on your mileage really and how often you changed the coolant. If your van has less than 200, 000kms I probably wouldn't worry too much about it.

[@JasonEngelTheWub]

Great video...thank you for posting. I changed the water pump while I had it apart. I recommend draining the block antifreeze before removing the water pump. It's a 12mm drain bolt on the back of the engine. I purchased a tb kit from Amazon; it came with the TB, WP, idler pulley, tensioner pulley, and hydraulic belt tensioner.

[@piercedasian]

Jason Engel great suggestion. I would've done that if I had to replace the water pump but in my case I was still fortunate enough to use the factory water pump still. Generally speaking if coolant was serviced on the van at least once its lifetime then chances are the stock pump will last over 200, 000kms without too many issues. Glad it all worked out for you.

[@stevealaska73]

You know a lot of people make stupid videos on here and then there are guys like you that take the time and energy to make a very useful video that teaches, if nothing else, what goes into a job like the one featured here. Thank you so very much for making this video. I have the exact same van that you worked on in this vid ('07 EX) and I am just about overdue for a timing belt replacement. I learned long ago not to put this type of service off for long otherwise, catastrophic damage can occur to the top end of the engine etc. This is our Family van and with what it cost us, we never procrastinate with staying on top of the maintenance. I am proud to say that I do most of the work such as oil changes and various part replacement but nothing as major as this yet. I have to be honest, I'm not sure I am ready or experienced enough to knock this job out at this point. I'd at least have to pick up that specialty Honda crank tool before I even started. lol Great job, and again thank you Piercedasian!

[@piercedasian]

@ stevealaska73 - yes considering the price of this van staying on top of maintenance is paramount. Odyssey's will look after you if you look after it. The first time I ever did a timing belt on a Honda 3.5 liter V6 was about 10 years ago and I will admit the first time soon it was a little harrowing. I guess the only tip I have for you is to be prepared with the proper (high quality) tools, a helping hand if need be, a full day with no interruptions and a lot of beer! If you do embark in doing it you can always drop me a line for tips. Good luck and sorry for taking forever to reply. I am still trying to get a hang of google+

[@stevealaska73]

No problem at all for delayed reply. I am now just as late getting back to you. Thank you for getting back to me. I have yet to do the job. Still nervous a bit. I priced those specialty tools and wow does Honda ever want a fortune for them. Guess I better save up a bit more before I add them to my small inventory. I have a Fit too. Get one of those yourself yet? I like it. I call it the hot rod and think of it as a legal go cart. But a fancy go cart with lots of room inside. Anyway, I'll stay in touch and keep watching your videos. It's great to be connected with you. I'll also be sure to drop you a line should I have any questions. Thanks again.

[@piercedasian]

@ steve alaska73 - Honda Fit? I technically have an old school Fit predecessor - the CRX Si from 1990. The Fit reminds me a LOT of my CRX but since I have a fully restored CRX Si in my garage I can't justify purchasing a Fit just yet :) Totally behaves like a little go kart, it's awesome! Yeah Honda gouges for tools but sadly there are some tools ONLY available from them. You gotta become buddy buddy with the Honda parts guys and then they will usually give you a small price break. Something is better than nothing right? I'll try my best to keep publishing new vids. Lately I haven't done any car related work b/c it's winter here and my body aches pretty badly b/c of fixing cars in a freezing garage. Combine winter + new baby it doesn't give me much opportunity to do much for now. Stay tuned and stay in touch!

[@jacobberry7665]

Great video. Just changed the timing belt, tensioner pully, and idler pully on my 2009 Odyssey EX-L. This video was very helpful.

[@piercedasian]

Glad it helped

[@danielpacheco2822]

Awesome video. Very easy to follow and very instructive. Glad you mad it. Keep posting more please !!!!!

[@jaywhiteside4582]

Thanks Dude. Saved me several hundreds of dollars. Just wanted to share a little of my story. Followed your video all the way. Almost lost the little metal rectangular peg for the crank pulley. Didn't notice it until reassembly. Talk about luck. Put everything back together, went to start, and there was a weird vibration/rough idle. I then had an "Oh Crap" moment. Tried to start again and tripped the Check Engine light. A friend had a code reader and it showed Cylinder Misfires in 1, 2, and 3. Really scared now. Went to start breaking it all back down in hopes that maybe a tooth off. Didn't have a clue. How about I forgot to plug the coil pack for cylinder 3 in. Had a "Could it be that simple" moment. Plugged it in and it was smooth as ever. Always the little details.

[@piercedasian]

yes being a little OCD (obsessive compulsive disorder) can be very useful when you're fixing cars. My paranoia is what keeps me on my game and ensures that I rarely if ever forget anything. Everyone makes mistakes - we're only human. But I'm glad you got your van working and that no damage was done to your engine.

[@chdsk9556]

Great video. It helped me out greatly. Also, the lighting is very good compared to other videos. I can clearly see what you are doing. Thanks.

[@piercedasian]

Curtis Henry Dyck Thanks for watching and I'm glad you liked the vid.

[@fiddlerpin]

Im going to attempt this timing belt change . You made it very clear on how to do it. Thanks

[@piercedasian]

I certainly hope I did. It took me FOREVER to get this vid recorded, edited and published. I did it for the love of sharing with the online community so that our members don't get screwed by the stealership!

[@Warrior_Resisting_Colonialism]

thanks for this video! i followed along and then did a few steps,then watched some more.made the job go smooth.very helpful.saved me hundreds! amazon sells a complete kit for around $200 at time of this post.made by Aisin.reviewers claim they are the makers of the parts Honda uses.

[@piercedasian]

+Q*bert yes Aisin makes the honda water pumps and I think even for toyota (Aisin if I remember is a partially toyota owned company). Wow $200 bucks? That would NEVER be the price in Canada. More like $400+ Good job on replacing your own t-belt. It isn't hard but it certainly isn't for the faint at heart...

[@mogong7260]

I really really appreciate your video I did it the bolt 🔩 was super tight. But I think i did it i start the van and everything sounds the way it should.

[@piercedasian]

That's great news! Yes the crank bolt is STUPID tight and despite the factory spec calling for a MUCH lower torque spec that whatever they use at the factory to attach the crank must be pushing well past 250 ft lbs to be that tight. I'm just super happy to hear you did your own tbelt job!

[@BuckeyeMCS]

What a great video! I am about to undertake this but I have a question, when the serpentine belt was replaced the molded nut (that you place the tensioner tool on) on the hydraulic tensioner may have been broken off by a gorilla (me). I slipped a pry bar with a flat end against the new belt on the pulley that moves reliving the tension and finished putting the serpentine belt on. Should I replace the entire unit(two pulleys and hydraulic tensioner) or can I get away with using the pry bar? As you know its a pretty expensive piece. Thank you!

[@peruzzi12]

piercedasian, great video, I've watched it twice. I have not yet started the project. I'm generally mechanically fluent, and having the right tools makes every job easier, but this instructional video is excellent. I read most of the 400 comments, and learned a lot more as well. A few notes, and one question; in 2017, three different Honda dealers quoted me $1,300 + for the job, including water pump replacement. As others have mentioned, you can get a "kit" from Aisin on amazon that includes timing belt, idler & tensioner bearings, water pump and gasket, and hydraulic tensioner for $167 which includes shipping US. My question is simple, and I think by reading comments, I have an idea, but in the video you keep saying make sure all is TDC and not to move from TDC. I guess I was hoping that you'd say, if it does move off TDC when you're taking the belt off, or putting it on, just move it back to TDC. Does the engine rotate without spark plugs pretty easily that you could lean on something and move it off TDC before the belt is on, and if so, is it easy to turn it all back?

[@piercedasian]

If you follow my vid to the exact word you can move the crank back to TDC easily by putting on the crankshaft pulley and adjusting as required. If the cam sprocket deviates from TDC then you can use a wrench and bring it back to TDC. Never under any circumstances try to offset your crank or cams in hopes that it will line up properly to TDC. EVERYTHING MUST line up before putting the belt back on otherwise you will be cursing like a sailor for days on end trying to get things lined up right.

[@hannahcastro9606]

Thank you so much @piercedassian with your quick response. I am halfway thru with this job. I could have finished the job in one day but the TDC process gave me a hard time. I did everything you did up to the part regarding taking the TB covers off. I had a difficult time placing the camshaft pulleys and crankshaft pulleys in their TDC position. I tried turning the pulleys by hand; however, those pulleys did not budge at ALL. So the ff were the steps that i did to get those pulleys in TDC. Please be my guess to provide a better process: - connected the battery - place the key in the ignition - Tried shifting the gear from "park" to "neutral" but the lever would not move - so tried to start the van up multiple times until I got it on the TDC on all pulleys. That was the only way to move the pulleys. Oh by the way, I left the car in the "Park" position not in neutral from the beginning. Please let me know if I did something wrong or left out a step or two. Thank you very much in advance!

[@hannahcastro9606]

piercedasian, can you also provide the procedures on how to check the TB once it is installed? what do i need to use in order to turn the pulleys and how to perform this procedure? In your video you indicated that you were able to turn the pulleys 6 to 8 times to make sure that no teeth/gear were out of place. thanks again!!!!

[@piercedasian]

Super easy. On the front and rear timing covers there are these little rubber plugs that you can "flip" open and look to see if the camshaft is at the TDC mark. The crankshaft should also be at the TDC mark which is denoted by the marker that is on the lower timing belt cover by the crankshaft. I just use a ratchet and appropriately sized socket to turn the crankshaft CLOCKWISE. If you have installed everything right you should never feel any resistance when cranking the engine with the ratchet. I do it at least 6-8 times to make sure my belt is "seated" on the pulleys properly, that there is no resistance and that the timing marks all line up perfectly before I attempt to start the engine.

[@steflebreton]

Awesome video man. Would never attempt this myself but had to watch after I paid a trusted tech to do it. You are spot on all the details and it was a pleasure to watch. Looking forward to watch more of your videos for sure! :)

[@piercedasian]

Great to hear!

[@davemacdougall4546]

Excellent video with great audio direction. I have watched several however this video is the best by far.

[@piercedasian]

lol, glad you like the vid. I have noticed that my vid appears to be #1 on youtube for this job so I guess you and all the other 150, 000 viewers must've liked it a lot :) My goal to make a good video was a success! Thanks for watching.

[@michaelsandy7461]

If you use anti-seize and are using a torque wrench, reduce the value by half or you run the risk of breaking a bolt. Fantastic video, so many thanks!

[@piercedasian]

Glad you like the video. I drop the torque values by about 20%. Half torque I think is too little but a drop of 20% is a safe margin that in the even a fastener is overtorqued that it won't be by much.

[@hng1964]

Thanks for making the video. It is excellent and very thorough. It took me two days to get it done. I do want to mention to the viewers that the J35A6 engine (mine) has a slightly different serpentine belt tensioner. Other than that everything else is the same. Again, what a great video. Thanks!!!!!

[@piercedasian]

Ha Nguyen glad you liked the video. It took me FOREVER to create this video and I must've easily spent 15+ hours documenting what I was doing and then another 20 hours to go through all the video content to pick out all the useful bits. When I'm not doing the recording I can generally complete the job in about 6.5 hours or less. My reasoning to document the procedure? All the t-belt videos for the J3xx series motors on youtube SUCK so I figured that I would go and make a good high quality one :) You are correct in stating that the A6 version of the J35 engine is a bit different. Thanks for watching!

[@mikeyost7539]

Excellent video, Thanks fortaking the time to make it. This will help save tons of time doing a belt replacement.

[@piercedasian]

you're most welcome. The vid took forever to produce but clearly it has helped a LOT of folks around the world :)

[@IronMan-ml5yi]

I'll be doing this on our oddyssey. thank you for your though video

[@piercedasian]

you're most welcome!

[@TheCgraham18]

What a fantastic video! I’m decently mechanically inclined but holy cow is this complicated and so much could go wrong in so many ways. I don’t know that I would try this

[@piercedasian]

If you take your time and have all the require tools and a case of beer you can easily complete this job. Its tedious b/c of all the little bits and pieces but as long as you're aligned perfectly then you're golden.

[@runningbean]

Amazing video, thank you for filming every step and so much detail.

[@AimingWanderously]

Excellent video, you put a lot of effort into this, much appreciated!

[@piercedasian]

You're very welcome. I am just glad that the fruits of my efforts are being realized by others. The pleasure is all mine :)

[@williamdonayre3762]

Thanks for your detailed information I used it to do my wife 2006 saturn vue 3.5l same honda drivetrain , also is similar to a nissan maxima 3.0 . I have done bmw nissan and toyotas but I have never found a center pulley bolt tighten so freaking hard . Thanks for your help.

[@piercedasian]

@ William Donayre - You're very welcome! Yes the crank bolt is ridiculously tight and FAR tighter than the spec that Honda publishes it to be.

[@r12001995]

EXCELLENT video by the way. You were very thorough!

[@mechanicalpirate664]

Well done video worked in a Honda specialty shop some time ago and would work the same way great techniques

[@piercedasian]

glad you liked the video!

[@leislymejia2864]

Watching many times to have it go smooth

[@mnmplays8706]

Nice job on video, thank you. Should you crank an engine if you think the timing is off ? Im trying to get my 2008 Honda oddesy running again, because it turns over, but won't start. I had a mechanic claiming the timing was of, but not sure how reliable this guy is. What is best way to determine if the timing is off, because the timing belt is still on, not broken ? Maybe you can refer me to related videos. Thanks for your time, and advice.

[@martinfamilyband]

Good job. I am going to try it in a few days when my belt kit arrives.

[@piercedasian]

Good luck. Just make sure you watch the video several times (sorry it is painfully long and detailed) so that you make sure you understand EVERY single step so you don’t run into any snags.

[@martinfamilyband]

@@piercedasian Thanks, I will follow your advice.

[@piercedasian]

you're most welcome.

[@RobertDickens2002]

Another thing this video is good for is letting you know to let someone else do it

[@piercedasian]

@ Lothian Mcadam - I use several brands of the manual turny knoby thingymabob. Snap on, Mastercraft and Craftsman.

[@hmbv1591]

How long did it take you to finish the whole job?

[@piercedasian]

@@hmbv1591 being a season mechanic this took me about 3.5-4 hours to complete but for a casual DIYer expect to spend as much as 6.5 hours doing this job.

[@dariuszdjuliusz8433]

Excellent video, detailed, and thorough. It spawned some good tips in the comments. Our Cdn winters are harsh and I'm envious when I watch vids with ppl working their cars with little rust. I have a 2007 Ody EXL 167k kms and about to attempt this hoping to resolve a P0344. My wife was coming to a stop and felt the Ody 'dip', the engine and VSA lights came ON, and the D was blinked on the way home. 2 mths ago I removed the harmonic balancer as it was chirping, reinstalled (aftermarket did not fit, haven't made it to a U-Pull yard yet) and went away for a day, but perhaps it was the TB tensioner all this time. The timing belt was done at 140k kms. I'll likely use the AISIN kit. I have many questions, but here's a few, - Can only the TB Tensioner be replaced - Should I install everything in the AISIN kit eg water pump etc. - Should I replace the Camshaft Position Sensor thanks in advance

[@piercedasian]

If the TB tensioner was not replaced during the last service then yes it is advisable to replace it. The V6 hydraulic tensioners are known to leak and that can cause the belt tension to drop. I wouldn't bother replacing all the parts in the engine UNLESS you're going to do another belt service which won't be until nearly 300, 000kms since you just replaced it at 140K kms. I'd say replace the tensioner if you didn't do the last time you replaced the belt and replace the cam sensors since the code you reported is indicative that the camshaft sensor is sending an intermittent signal to the PCM.

[@soilBGuRu420]

Did changing the cam sensor fix code??? P0344

[@hng1964]

I understand 2005 Odysseys have major issues with their transmissions (I learned of this after I purchased one). I am prepared to replace one in the future and it would be great if before then you had made another exceptional video on replacing transmission. Good job!

[@piercedasian]

Ha Nguyen Hi Ha, lol I hope I NEVER have to replace a transmission as that is a huge job that most DIYers may be too inexperienced to tackle. I wouldn't say that the 2005 Odysseys transmissions had major issues but more that they had out of date software on them that would engage the torque converter too soon or cause it to shift more than it should which creates heat and wear. I do agree that the 05's being the first new generation year for the 3rd gen Odyssey is more prone to "bugs" that need to be worked out but I wouldn't say that they were flawed like the 2nd gen transmissions ever were. What happened to your transmission? Did you have torque converter clutch failure?

[@hng1964]

piercedasian My Odyssey has 115K on it. The transmission is doing ok but it doesn't seem to shift smoothly at lower gears. I am assuming this is an early sign of problems with the transmission. But this would agree with your point about shifting design/software. Also, I think the transmission is a little small for the size of this vehicle. Just a simple observation. Anyway, I am just preparing for replacing it someday :-(

[@piercedasian]

115K is nothing for an Odyssey. Just drain and fill the tranny 3x times with Honda ATF DW1. Change it, drive for a day, change it and fill and repeat. I would be very surprised if your tranny failed with such low miles as the 2006 tranny which I had was basically identical to the 2005 build. Fingers crossed for you :)

[@khoale4510]

Hello, Great video. I have done many timing belts and wanted to share here. Since the labor is intense, you should check both tensioners and water pump to see if they turn OK and there is no end-play. They should turn smooth but can not free run like wheel-of-fortune. If they do it means they have dry grease and they will fail soon. Also please turn the crank clockwise only few turns by hand with socket wrench before starting the engine; so that the hydraulic tensioner settle in and stretch the belt all places (sections) and to check the TDC mark again and again. Also if you can pull the crank seal and replace; it does not cost much but you are right there. The cam seals are rarely leak so we can do next time.

[@piercedasian]

yes i actually do normally spin the pulleys and give them a good wiggle to determine if there is any play. I also do rotate the engine several times to tension the belt and inspect everything to make sure all is good. I don't bother replacing seals as I haven't found one that has leaked yet even at 500, 000 ams so I normally leave them alone.

[@jacorymarshall8151]

Would I need to do a full turn

[@jacorymarshall8151]

Also I’ve tightened it before the installing the wheel and it’s only went as far as a quarter turn.

[@danielzimnoch4365]

Great video, about to work on our 07. Also need to replace some transmission sensors. We have the blinking D light effect with the check engine light. This will be fun.

[@piercedasian]

Good luck!

[@danielzimnoch4365]

No more blinking light, replaced the neutral transmission switch, very easy to do.

[@malicutecutechann4287]

Very detail... I learn so much can’t wait to work on it

[@piercedasian]

Good luck!

[@silicondt1]

Hey great guide. A couple things I ran into that might help others. After doing this guide I got misfire CEL at high RPM. My timing was SPOT on tdc on both cams and crank. I had to do the manual CPK relearn. That fixed the problem. Also the timing cover bolt... don't use a torque wrench. I sheered a bolt off using a torque wrench on 8ft lbs.... I suggest just hand tighten them snug.

[@piercedasian]

Daniel Barnett Great tip Daniel. I don't ever use a torque wrench to tighten fasteners that require less than 40 ft lbs of torque to tighten. Why? B/c of your exact issue - broken fasteners. I am surprised that manufacturers would post specs on such tiny screws when in reality hand tight is all that is needed. I gauge the torque on small fasteners based on what it is holding together. Even spark plugs should NOT be tightened with a torque wrench as most plugs only require 16ft lbs to be considered to be "sufficiently tight". As for the crank relearn procedure I guess it depends on your van. I've done many t-belts on Honda's J series engines and I've never had to do a relearn procedure (maybe just good luck on my part). Glad you found the video useful. Thanks again for sharing your experiences with our viewers!

[@silicondt1]

piercedasian Also the computer thing that has the 3 bulkhead connectors on it can come out with the bracket it's mounted to. No need to take it out then the bracket. Might save 10 mins.

[@piercedasian]

great tip! Yes I did notice that bracket and how the harnesses don't have to come off and yes it does save some time by not having to dismantle them.

[@axelmensch3369]

I love when his show the actual work and not their car. Great video 👍🏻

[@piercedasian]

Glad you liked it.

[@r12001995]

Thank you for responding. I had the dealer throw in a service manual with the purchase of our van, and glad i did. I read the timing belt removal part which explains it in detail, but NOT the detail you presented here. You were so good in detailing what exactly is the best way to go about it (removing the trans brain for one to enable more room). Tomorrow, Im going to get another 19mm impact socket and go with 1/2" all the way thru which I'm hoping that will break this thing loose as the bolt is showing some signs of wear (my biggest fear is stripping the head of the bolt) as we know this wouldn't be good. I plan on replacing the crank bolt if and when I remove it…..and I'm praying I get it removed too! I got the special crank wrench at O'rielly auto parts rental basically free, just purchase it they said and they give you 48 hrs for full refund (great way to do rental btw). Thanks again.

[@piercedasian]

@ T Bob - yes DO NOT ruin that crank pulley bolt. That bolt if memory serves me correctly is a 19mm 6 point head. Make sure you buy quality tools - specifically a 6 point socket and not a 12 point socket. You want the socket head to GRIP the bolt as firmly as the 6 points can. I can't say I have ever ruined a crank bolt. To ensure your sanity and success get a helper to hold that crank bolt pulley holder squarely in the hex bore while you get a HUGE pipe to put onto the end of the breaker bar attached to that socket on the crank bolt. My breaker bar is literally 7-8 ft long and I make sure the whole time I am removing bolts that I have everything squared up firmly before I attempt to remove anything. That super long pipe (natural gas line pipe) will help you IMMENSELY when put onto the end of a 1/2" drive breaker bar. Well worth the money spent on those simple but well made tools. Good luck!

[@r12001995]

piercedasian Well, it FINALLY broke loose today! Yes, I used a breaker bar (the only way to accomplish this task) about 5-6 ft long. That bolt was SO TIGHT, I couldn't believe it. I broke 3 reducers. Finally went with 1/2" drive and had to buy new 1/2" drive impact sockets as my old ones failed too. I changed out all the bearings except the drive belt bearings. I replaced the water pump too. Now that I finished tonight, I have an extra huge bolt left over. I couldn't believe it. I have to go back into the job at a later time as I broke the drive belt adjuster hex (the one that loosens belt) and Im ordering that 2morrow. Couldn't believe that either. But the belt is on. Ill just have to unbolt the adjuster to get the belt off now when i replace the tensioner. Came out very clean though. Just simply couldn't believe how tight the bolt was, and it didn't get stripped either.

[@piercedasian]

@ T Bob - You're a great example of what others have likely experienced. Yes it sucks that the bolts are as crazy tight as they are but the key thing here is that YOU GOT IT DONE without paying the garage or stealership. A few parts to buy but otherwise you've just saved yourself a pile of cash. Spend it on yourself, your family or plan a holiday in your Odyssey with your new found savings!

[@r12001995]

piercedasian Yes Sir! Good plan! :-)

[@johnlucier5654]

@@r12001995 only way? Impact gun?

[@danielsmith2447]

Nice thorough video, you don't need to take the transmission control module off the bracket. Just remove the bracket with the module attached without even unplugging the wires.

[@piercedasian]

It seemed (at the time) easier to undo the pieces separately but I'll keep that in mind the next time I do the best again.

[@thomaslam2915]

Thanks a lot. I have the 06 odyssey touring(VCM). I will try to remove the serpentine auto tensioner to replace my bad alternator. It looks like that is the way to replace it. what do you think sir?

[@ruvyk18]

thanks for the video! its good to see there are some people that still have the original AMERICAN spirit of helping without CHARGING. I just got a well maintained 05 odyssey EX-L with 181000mi that never had the TB done. I usually try to do as much as i can myself.but im not experienced enough to undertake this job,(even though watching the video almost made me try it). but at least now i can feel more confident when i decide which shop will do the work. THANKS again keep up the good work

[@piercedasian]

@ Ruben Katz - Better get to that belt/water pump and tensioner replacement ASAP. 181K Miles is WAAAY too much for comfort and you risk destroying your new Oddy if you don't get it replaced. Just remember that Honda engines are interference engines so if it snaps you will need a new valve train to go with belt replacement and that will probably cost as much as what you probably paid for the van. Good luck and thanks for the kind words!

[@ruvyk18]

piercedasian i ended up doing my timing belt which surprisingly was in perfect condition unless it was changed and not recorded by honda (got complete records from the dealer that serviced this van ) the belt still had alot teeth left i have a different issue my AC Compressor is gone (per my mechanic) did you ever change one? is it hard?

[@piercedasian]

Hi Ruben, no I can't say I have replaced the a/c compressor on the Odyssey but my understanding is that it isn't overly difficult. More importantly is how well you keep the system free from dirt and debris and how well the shop that charges it removes moisture from the system. The deeper the vacuum and the longer the vacuum the better chance your a/c system has to remove the moisture from the oil and the piping. Don't forget to replace the accumulator when you replace the compressor.

[@haroldtravis]

Followed these instructions start to finish. Thanks

[@piercedasian]

SWEET! Great work!

[@dwagner825]

Thanks for the great video. You helped me save my niece a grand from what the dealer quoted her at 1300. Took a good 7 hours but well worth it. A heads up to all. When reinstalling the engine side upper motor mount make sure you attach that first then assemble the through bolt on the carriage side dampener. Made it a heck of a lot easier to line everything up.

[@piercedasian]

yeah the first time I ever did an Odyssey timing belt it took me about 6-7 hours. Great tip for the engine mount! Now go buy yourself or your family something nice with the money you've saved!

[@hmonglee118]

Excellent video and detailed information. Best video i found!Replaced the timing belt along with the water pump like a pro.

[@piercedasian]

glad the video was useful.

[@7779jesse]

Great video! Reminds me of the old 3.0 liter Chrysler engine. I think I would have swapped the water pump while I was there 🙂. Thanks for the video

[@piercedasian]

Glad you liked watching my video. Thanks for watching!

[@sonichalo117]

Best VIDEO ever. You are amazing. Happy to see so much details. Learn a lot. Finally did it my self. Thanks ED

[@hullumstarmedia]

Gran video... gracias por mantenernos informados 😊!

[@piercedasian]

No problemo!

[@michaelwolfe4687]

Great video, I'm halfway done with mine but still debating on changing the water pump. Good lighting but I think a lazer pointer would really improve the clarity of what you call out. Maybe next video?

[@piercedasian]

Glad you liked the video. It will depend on mileage. I have easily pushed the stock Honda water pumps to 200,000 kms with zero signs of leakage. That being said Honda does recommend it changed at 160,000 kms which is basically the latest mileage of when a t-belt should be changed. If anything make sure you replace that tensioner. They’re almost guaranteed to leak.

[@migjim3100]

Great video,thanks for sharing this information.

[@chrlsrchrdsn]

I just bought a 2008 Odyssey and though I am not planning on doing the work myself, I was wondering why it was so expensive. I used to do the work on my cars, but those had chains, not belts. Anyway, it's great to see this vid because now I know what has to be done and that the price is fair for the amount of work. Great vid. I see this is a year old, but if you haven't changed your lighting, I would suggest adding a couple of type of LED lights. They make them much thinner and longer for car work now, that improves the viewing angles for the camera and you. They fit in far tighter spaces. They make them in several lengths and widths that would make the vids easier to shoot. I plan to see if you have some others because these were great.

[@piercedasian]

yeah it can be quite labor intensive if you've never done one before. I've done enough belt changes that for the most part I don't get stumped very often but there are days where my back just doesn't agree with the work. I'd pay someone to do but since I'm more than capable of doing the work I just can't justify it just yet :) LED lights? yes I absolutely want to buy some to use for car repair. I'm somewhat old school in that realm. I still like using my hold work light with a plain old lightbulb. When Home Depot has them on sale I'll snag one for next time!

[@davidnjennieprice]

Excellent and practical video - I'm going to do mine tomorrow a.m. - however, I caution that DIYers dig deeper regarding the accessory belt tensioner BEFORE reinstalling the accessory belt. Apparently the tensioner bolt shearing is very common if you don't "bleed" the tensioner (according to the service manual) before applying the final tension and slipping the belt on. We had it happen to our van immediately after purchasing it before we even left town (seller had just had timing belt replaced and car had 10 miles on new belt) - the seller graciously had the bolt replaced then I had the entire assembly replaced at an import specialist. Bleeding apparently consists of pulling the tensioner through its entire movement span 3 times with each pull at least 3 seconds or more - then slipping the belt on on the fourth pull. Why Honda why? You are the only one I've heard of with this insanity.

[@piercedasian]

This is a VERY valid point. I wished I showed this in my video b/c I actually learned about this AFTER I completed this job but was lucky enough to catch it such that I was able to do the bleed procedure not long after I completed this job to prevent the bolt from shearing off. What is ODD is that this doesn't happen to every Odyssey and the dealership techs don't bleed it either. I continue to do timing belts on these cars but I sure as hell make sure I give it a 3-4 full compressions before applying the full final tension and installing the belt. Thanks for pointing that out to our audience.

[@davidnjennieprice]

@@piercedasian yes on Honda's - weird stuff for sure. Anyhow my alternator went bad right at the same time of timing belt water pump service (over 200K mi) and I'm using the method of not taking out the radiator and the front end of the car and I managed to get the entire wiring harness for the alternator out of the electric box, worm it through separate the alternator from the ears and then discovered like Toyota, Honda loves to put wire keepers on back of their alternators that go to other connectors. It happened to be the wiring and connector that goes down to the compressor clutch connector. Unlike Toyota that likes to run a 2Wire down-to-their crank position sensor with no removable plug on it on their V6 RAV4s. But what's weird on my Ody is I could have sworn I saw and felt a red wire AND a black wire going down there to the compressor connector but when the whole thing finally came out all there was a single red wire and that connector only has a one pin connectior. So I have no idea what ghost of a black wire I saw was. I can see no sign of it now that it's all out. The connector is only one pin. It's almost as if they had some kind of black strand that was a strain relief or something that wound up getting broken. Have you ever seen something like that? Like seeing what appears to be two wires going behind a Honda alternator then finding on only one and nowhere for another one to connect? That button wire keeper that they snap on the back of the alternator is a real bugger to get off even if you have full access to the alternator. You practically have to break it to get it off even with a special tool.

[@piercedasian]

oh god, the Honda V6 alternator replacement = PITA. I can't say that I know of a black cable behind the alternator. The compressor as you've indicated uses a single red wire for the field coil. Perhaps there is an engine ground that you missed? I know on the engine mounts on many honda's that there are often single black wires attached to the small bolts that bond the grounds between the chassis and motor/transmission.

[@robs.201]

It's always best to install the tensioner, belt, and leave the pin in the tensioner as it will put enough tension to keep the belt from jumping teeth as you slowly rotate, rotate the engine 720 degrees clockwise with the pin in the tensioner and check your timing marks at the cams and crank, if all your marks line up, pull the pin, if not, take one of the mounting bolts out of the tensioner and that will give you enough slack to make any adjustments without having to re-compress the tensioner. ASE certified master-tech, 20+ years. Did this 4 days ago, same vehicle, and having another of the same dropped off in the morning for the same thing.

[@piercedasian]

All great tips Rob. Thanks for sharing that. Always great to get tips from other mechanics (both professional and shadetree) to make everyone's job easier!

[@juliusfrias5538]

the video was very helpfull, athough i personally had to replace a water pump this was a usefull guide for that as well considering that you should always replace the timing belt with the water pump n e way. great video thanks

[@thomaslam2915]

Hi, do you know the torque for the two bolts on the serpentine auto tensioner? It's easy to install the auto tensioner back? I really like your video.

[@Aricbetchtel2938]

Just finished my 2009 ody the crankbolt was a MF broke a 1/2" breaker bar and a 18" extension the secret is heat the crank bolt with a Wagner paint stripper heat gun for 5 minutes and the bolt came right out..your video saved me like 700$ thanks for making it

[@piercedasian]

glad you liked my video. Wow you broke a 1/2" breaker bar and the extension? Great tip on heating up the bolt with a heat gun. I've been very fortunate that my tools have stood the test of time and many timing belt jobs but if I ever get into a pickle I'll know to heat the bolt up.

[@RR-iq8ze]

Yes, thank you for this video. I was thinking that the whole engine has to be removed. I can't do it myself, but I can try to get a mobile mechanic to do the job and not have to worry that he doesn't have an engine lift. Also, how do you recommend to clean the engine?

[@willlLab2]

Great video, you did really good and help me thank you.

[@piercedasian]

you're welcome! thanks for watching ;)

[@paulvandagriff4014]

Awesome step by step video, well done. Now its not so scary!

[@piercedasian]

nah not scary if you follow the video exactly as shown.

[@sam-dw5ns]

great vidio i was going to ask what you thought of using the starter bump method but i see u addressed that as well great stuff !!!

[@piercedasian]

Glad you liked the video. Thanks for watching!

[@piercedasian]

Danny lavoie lol, yes I am asian :)