DIY Insulating Rim Joists and Sill plate

[@IndianaDiy]

Don't forget to subscribe. kzbin.info . You can also find items in the video on My Amazon store page www.amazon.com/shop/indianadiy . Oh and Don't forget to click the Bell to get Notifications.

[@koogleyou557]

Builder for 18 yrs now. Love the access to other ways/better ways. The guy who wears the black tshirt and says really cool all the time doesnt seem to promote based on common sense and experience but rather on sponsorship. THIS is a good clean low cost sensible thorough approach that is affordable. You build for a living thats clear. Liking and subscribing. Keep it up.

[@IndianaDiy]

Thanks I really appreciate the feedback it helps. I try my best with what I got and know.

[@koogleyou557]

Thats all we can do right? Oh yeah and live our lives.

[@IndianaDiy]

You got that right.

[@donluchitti]

In your opinion, if you saw someone insulating their sill plate like in this video but it wasn't directly above the foundation but recessed about 4-5 inches, would you reccommend they put something over the exposed cinder block tops in the way of insulation? In my house, the rim joist and sill plate are recessed.

[@WilliamVG]

I'm currently doing this on a older house we bought. I'm sure the hard work will pay off. Cheers!

[@teachferrer]

Thanks for the video. I did this over a year ago in my when I encapsulated my crawlspace and it made a huge difference in keeping my home warmer. However, due to termite inspection concerns, I removed all of this insulation recently and replaced it with Rockwool Comfortboard which can be removed for temite inspections. Before doing that, I treated all of the wood with Boracare to deter termite invasion, then insulated with the comfort board. My thermal camera revealed that my current setup was equal to my previous set up but now I feel much more at ease because I treated the wood and can inspect for termites more easily.

[@johnlimongello5716]

Good video... I like that you suggested caulking between the sill plate and cinder block... I like the fact that there is a foam board available which has an additive to it that wood-boring insects do not like.

[@kcmaldonado3948]

which brand uses an insecticide?

[@IndianaDiy]

Thanks, Sorry for late reply.

[@jefftrvecvlt1819]

great video! up here in Canada, we add some batt insulation first then put the foam board up. I insulated my attic from R-12 to R-60, and this is my next project!

[@jdaddybrooks5060]

I live in North Central Massachusetts and I’m gonna do it the Canadian way, which I saw on another vid. But I’m also gonna caulk those seams. No one did that in the other videos.

[@IndianaDiy]

Hey glad I could help, and thanks for the feedback.

[@IndianaDiy]

Hey thanks I'm glad the video did help you.

[@kenklassen9577]

Great video...good tips...thanks...GOD Bless you...!

[@Rotorzilla]

Good video thanks

[@IndianaDiy]

Glad you enjoyed it

[@CCSandSonsWorkshop]

Nice video! 4K looks great too!

[@IndianaDiy]

Hey Thanks, I appreciate the feedback.

[@debraryan8292]

I have a Ryobi battery operated caulk gun since I am a senior with some arthritis in my thumbs and fingers. In checking online with Menards, it seems the DAP® Clear All-Purpose 100% Silicone Sealant - 2.8 oz is waterproof and good to use in/outdoors and around windows as an option of a handy tube where the rock basement meets the wood frame.

[@IndianaDiy]

That will work, I choose DAP Alex Plus for it 35 year life spans and previous experience I have had with it being a good all around caulk.

[@chadcochran5888]

Would be acceptable and/or better to use a foil backed rigid board like the R tech board?

[@IndianaDiy]

I am sure you could, I don't see why not. I have also seen people foam around the pink foam to seal it instead of using foam caulk.

[@flinch622]

Hard to reach places? Take a 2 foot piece of 3/8" hose, and jam it on the application tip - keep an appropriate size bolt handy to plug it up as needed. I like to cut application end with a taper to get corners without leaving gobs of excess Awkward arrangements like floor joist spacing leaving an odd space on one side may not allow the gun at any angle [assuming you don't want to spray foam for whatever reason such as... fastener inspection where earthquake codes exist]. If you need a helping hand on a reach where your hand won't fit? Duct tape and a coathanger gets control.

[@IndianaDiy]

Interesting, Thanks for sharing.

[@dano1234v]

So how do you know the mold and rot won’t happen behind styrofoam board, or is it because it’s air tight after caulking

[@IndianaDiy]

Besides normal moisture there shouldn't be any rot or mold. Since the first layer of siding covers the rim joist there should be any wetness or excess moisture.

[@dano1234v]

Indiana DIY I have crawl space and it had pink in rim joists and I was getting black rot starting and I noticed on the north side of house was muck worse, because no sun and rock work on lower half of house , with cold rocks and no sun the rim joists would just get soaked, humidity was averaging 15-50 because it’s vented, so I removed all insulation and for last 10 years it’s been fine, so I’m hesitant to try any insulation because I witnessed that , I guess I need to test, I will put styrofoam on 1 or 2 on north and seal and see what happens Thanks for your reply

[@dano1234v]

Indiana DIY well bad construction I guess, on the north side of my house there is tile fake rock on lower part of exterior wall, looks like they just cemented that stuff to wood wall no foam behind it. The rest is stucco that area was no as bad, by I remember in winter the rock face was just sweating on inside of rim joists

[@hoogabooga9736]

mice will eat through it, unfortunately. Would be great to have a solution to prevent that too. I've used spray foam AND steel wool with some success.

[@IndianaDiy]

Yes, I’m sure they will. I’m building outdoor bait stations to put around my house. I’m going to try and see if that helps keep them out of my house, I’m also sealing holes on outside of the house to help prevent them coming in. I found this video was interesting for an idea on building bait stations kzbin.info/www/bejne/mH65mqJ3obhpa6s

[@hoogabooga9736]

@@IndianaDiy good luck. they make a mouse repellant spray foam that is pricey......and useless......one of the reviews on home depot website has a guy showing pictures where he removed all of his cabinets and used the spray foam. the next picture shows all of the chewed up foam in the cabinets! Mice have poor eyesight and move along the walls as most people already know, their travel is dictated by air flow; if they feel a little hole they explore it by chewing...steel foam deters the chewing, spray foam omits the air flow.

Subbed

[@AngelRivera-gm7bx]

Want to seal the outside of the crawl space. Should I used closed spray foam or batts ? Thanks so much

[@IndianaDiy]

I would research it more. It depends on Moisture and other factors, also type of environment you want to install the foam or batts in. One thing also it depends on if rodents are an issue.

[@aaronstrine2111]

Foam if you don’t air seal it your wasting your time

[@theotherlinh]

is there any particular reason you didn't go with spray foam around the foam boards? This was the first video I've seen that didn't use spray foam with this method. So I'm curious if there's a reason just caulking doesn't work. Is it an access issue? I'm mostly concerned about having to get back to the rim joist for insect/moisture issues (no matter how much we try, I'm always paranoid about this)

[@IndianaDiy]

Yes, the caulk is the same the spray foam. It makes it air tight which is most important. I spray the outside of my house with Talstar P several times a year to prevent pests. The Foamular board is moisture resistant, but have a air tight seal helps prevent excess moisture.

[@FreshKicks4545]

Are these the crawl space vents?

[@IndianaDiy]

No, they are not.

[@nrfa6229]

Hi. Great step x step video. We need more videos just like this where, it show step x step and well explained how to do DIY projects around the home. I was wondering if I could use the same technique as shown in this video but with concrete instead of wood which you have here in your video? My basement is all concrete poured, so no wood joist. What would you suggest for me to use, to get the same benefits as you have and save on my heat bill and make my main floor above more warm? Thanks so much, and please keep more videos just like this coming. I thumbed up and now I’m a new subscriber. 👍🏼

[@IndianaDiy]

Thank you, I really appreciate your comment.I will continue to make more videos like this, I hope the info below helps. I would use 4'x 8' Rigid foam board sheets, As long as you don't have excessive moisture. Buy the Loctite foam adhesive, I would buy a large 28oz caulk gun and see if you can get 28 oz tubes or order a case, easier if you have allot to do(see if your local hardware has 10 oz if 28 oz not available, 28 oz is contractor size but easier on projects that require allot). It will insulate your walls and you could also frame it in later.. Here is a one of my favorite sites, and And web page from it on insulating and framing basements. Scroll down and it will show a demonstration of foam board on poured/conrete block(same process) walls and best way to install. www.familyhandyman.com/basement/how-to-finish-a-foundation-wall/view-all/

[@nrfa6229]

Indiana Diy Awesome. Thanks so much for the fast reply. Greatly appreciate it, and it does help a lot👍🏼

[@donluchitti]

If my sill plate is a bit far back, that is to say, not like the sill plate in this video which is directly above the cinder block foundation, should I put something over the top of the foundation too? I have about 4-5 inches of foundation before my sill plate.

[@IndianaDiy]

In my opinion from what you describe you want to eliminate all the possible air entry.

[@thehamburglar9mm]

1 can of spray foam expands to about 8x tubes of caulk.

[@IndianaDiy]

If the foam works for you that great. I have little kids and I always noticed it takes a while for the smell to dissipate.

[@Kentacus]

Indiana DIY I don’t think he means spray the whole thing with foam. Just use a can of foam around the eps instead of caulk. It’s much quicker and you don’t have to be super precise with the size of the eps. I never had issues with smell of one part foam in a can.

[@Robert-re5vk]

ty God bless

[@IndianaDiy]

Glad I could help. Thanks for feedback.

[@JocelynMCrossett]

This great video

[@IndianaDiy]

Thank you for your feedback.

[@paulbisceglia6824]

Make it a 1/2 inch shorter so you can spray foam all the way around the foam board

[@IndianaDiy]

Thanks good Idea.

[@sherylnapier6020]

Thanks for the video. You mentioned that it was hard to get the caulk gun in to do the bottom edge. Is it easier to do this once the foam board is in place?

[@IndianaDiy]

I'm glad it helped. It was maybe a tiny bit easier since the foam board is in front of the wood, but still hard to reach because of the angle.

[@sherylnapier6020]

You made it look easy! I'm a beginner. Is it possible to spray the foam onto your gloved finger and then put it in the crack?

[@IndianaDiy]

Spray foam is harder to work with as it is very sticky. There are ways of doing what you're describing, I have used some clear soft tubing to put foam in tight spaces.

[@sherylnapier6020]

Thanks and have a nice one!

[@RGIIIRedskins]

They also sell caulk in tubes - similar to a tube of toothpaste.

[@Warrogue1]

Two questions: 1. Some other videos show them using the foam board like you have AND batt insulation. Who the difference? 2. I have several shelves along my basement walls, some are attached to the wall. Is it possible to insulate the rim joists without moving all the shelves and all the items on the shelves?

[@IndianaDiy]

Yes there are allot of people that use rigid foam and batt foam in rim joists. In your situation it may be best to try batt insulation, since it is flexible. But get moisture resistant batt insulation.

[@Warrogue1]

thanks.

[@IndianaDiy]

No problem glad to help.

[@bobbywanger8123]

👍👍👍👍🔥🔥🔥

[@runningwolf8115]

so you used the PL300 foam board adhesive to glue the rigid foam board to the rim joists then used the silicone to seal the foam board. Did you put insulation in front of the foam board

[@IndianaDiy]

No insulation in front of it, unless you need a vapor barrier. But foam board I used is moisture resistant surface.

[@Swoliosis1]

I have roughly 150 feet of basement wall to do. How many tubes of PL300 do you estimate I will need? Also, did you put PL300 on the bottom-side before you stuck it in? Seemed like a good compromise vs. spray foam or trying to get the caulk gun in to seal up the bottom somehow..

[@IndianaDiy]

Most tubes of caulk like that are 28-30 ft I'd say 6 tubes.

[@1PITIFULDUDE]

You have got to seal the rim joist first, before anything else is put up against that wood. Spray foam is the devil, so high quality caulking is best. Once air movement is eliminated, install the insulation of choice based on interior humidity levels. Fiberglass or Rockwool, when installed to class 1 standards, is superior in R value and it allows annual inspections of the rim assemblies.

[@kcmaldonado3948]

1) Why do so few homes I'm seeing in these videos not have termite shields atop the foundation wall? 2) So many other videos like this make out fiberglass or rock wool to be useless since there is no vapor barrier to block interior air from hitting the joist and causing condensation, and you are stating it is superior? - How? 3) I have never used spray foam other than Great Stuff for small areas, but look on here and you will see people who have lost entire homes to spray foam insulation due to termite damage

[@kcmaldonado3948]

@John Sluder Well, if you come to rural Illinois where there is no code enforcement, you'll see a whole slew of home that have no termite shield. It's a half-ass contractors hey day.

[@jkcincy08]

Mike Penske When you say “high quality caulking” what specific brands do you recommend? I went to Home Depot the other day & stood there looking at 30 different types of caulk. One of the employees suggested a newer “hybrid” caulk that is supposed to “seal out everything” but it was about $9 for 1 cartridge.

[@1PITIFULDUDE]

jk, the very best, non-cracking caulk I know of is DAP 3.0 #18350, which I have used, but I had a bad reaction to it while it was curing/off-gassing in my sealed crawl space. I switch to DAP Dynaflex 230 # 11418, and it did not cause any issues. Dynaflex, after a year, is still pliable, just not as rubbery as the #18350. Spend more than $5.00 a tube at a big box store and you should get a sound caulk. Good luck on your projects.💪

[@jkcincy08]

Mike Penske So, from what I understand, you’re saying to caulk all around the rim joist first (and as John Sluder mentioned above, caulking where the sill plate touches the foundation) to seal out air & condensing water, then add the insulation of your choice. You suggested using fiberglass or rock wool insulation over the sealed rim joist so the joists can easily be inspected (for water/mold infiltration, termites, etc.) by simply taking out the insulation and looking. If you use rigid or spray foam, then the rim joist is “sealed,” but can’t be inspected for any issues because it’s covered and sealed so the rim joist can’t be visually inspected?

[@AngelRivera-gm7bx]

Great ! What r is this ? Thanks

[@jamesmiller437]

@@IndianaDiy He's asking about R value for the rigid foam board. Excellent video.

[@IndianaDiy]

R-10.

[@IndianaDiy]

@@jamesmiller437 yeah, I totally had a brain fart on that. Yeah your right.

[@TISINLI2]

I see that you have wood in your rim joist. Did you put that yourself? Mines doesn't have it. Do i need to put that wood prior to installing the foam board?

[@IndianaDiy]

The rim joist is usually wood unless your house is built with concrete. It would depend on what it on the outside of where your rim joist is, Wood will transfer hot an Cold and Concrete will transfer less.

[@mfsolutions]

do you have to cover it with a fire barrier on the inside? Building code in my area requires rigid foam insulation to be covered with drywall.

[@thomasconnell8723]

I would check with your local building inspector. Mine said the rim joists is the only place in the house that you can leave XPS exposed.

[@IndianaDiy]

I'm not for sure.

[@huejanus5505]

Good job. But use Dap Dynaflex instead, the other stuff is crappy. The Alex caulk doesn’t flex much and tends to crack and pull away from surfaces.

[@markesselstynmiller747]

One thing you are missing is the harboring of moisture between the rim board and form board. The moisture has no place to escape which will result in the rim joist rotting out very fast. Or mold growth.

[@IndianaDiy]

Trying to create an air tight seal and the foam board is moisture resistant. The outside of the house is also caulked so cold air won't come up between the siding and the rim joist. The idea for my old house came from a Article I found in the family handyman www.familyhandyman.com/basement/insulate-basement-rim-joists/

[@kevinhogan4060]

Mark Esselstyn Miller - If the foam board is in full contact (no air space) with the interior surface of the rim joist, there will be no (cold) condensing surface available for water vapor to make that phase change. Using fiberglass batts reduces the amount of heat energy reaching the interior surface of the rim joist causing that surface to be cold enough to reach the dew point (the temperature at which water in vapor form changes to liquid). Because of the configuration of the glass fibers, a condensing surface behind the fiberglass can and does exist. Most homeowners are unaware of this phenomena because they typically do not remove the fiberglass batt to examine the rim joist. To make matters worse, engineered wood is more prone to experience moisture/frost accumulation (and mold) on the interior surface as opposed to dimensional lumber as the R value (aka insulation value) of dimensional lumber is higher than engineered wood. This is why there has been a popular trend to use two-part spray foam to air seal and insulate rim joists as opposed to using fiberglass batts. With foam sprayed against the rim joist, it air seals, insulates, and reduces the potential for a condensing surface to exist unless you skimp on the thickness of the spray foam. It is recommended to install R 21 or higher insulation value in this critical building component.

[@canuckfixit7722]

0:46 Homes built in the last 30 years or so should have a layer of roll-foam separating the sill plate from the top of the concrete foundation wall. This keeps moisture from wicking from the concrete to the wood. Caulking in that case is not necessary.

[@IndianaDiy]

Yes that is correct. Sadly on older homes before the wide spread use of a sill plate seal air gaps and moisture were common. But in my case which applies to a lot of houses in U.S. the caulk is helpful. I agree with you.

[@mmv5064]

Foamular 150 isn’t rated R150. It’s rated R5.

[@IndianaDiy]

Actually, It Depends on the Thickness of the Foam if it's over 1(R5) inch in thickness it goes up if the foam is 1 1/2 inches it is R7.5 and 2 inches thick is R10.

[@mmv5064]

Indiana Diy I don’t mean any disrespect, I was just thrown off because of the video description saying R150. I mean if they made R150 in a 2” product that would be amazing!! I believe thermasheath Rmax makes an R13 in 2”. Love the idea of using caulk instead of foam. Great ideas man, keep doing videos 👍🏻

[@skiprope536]

Put a flexible tube on the caulk ,gun. caulk the bay..then Cut and put in R-15 ur R-19 Vapor Barrier Facing inside. Less mONEY! Better.

[@IndianaDiy]

Thanks for the Info.