DIY Mini Split Install: 3 Regrets After 1 Year of Use

[@markpang8847]

This is how that DIY KZbin channels SHOULD do it. Update, be transparent about errors, possible improvements, afterthoughts, etc. Thank you for the integrity, time, effort, and information.

[@KCreations4You]

I agree 100%, however he downplayed the seriousness and danger of how he did his electrical saying it wasn't unsafe or a fire hazard. If there is an issue the unit could easily catch fire before the breaker trips. Not to mention doing sketchy stuff like that will be found in a fire and insurance wont cover it. He clearly didn't get a permit or he would have failed inspection completely. That old video should be taken down and corrected but he probably is getting a lot of views and money from it. Its a very well put together video though.

[@replyhere590]

@@KCreations4You agree that matching wire size/type, breaker rating and the load is tricky business; my non-electrician understanding is that overrating the wire or the cable is not as serious as overrating the breaker. Electrical code requirements (use the "Ugly" book, for example,) should always be consulted and followed. You don't want the fire investigator for the insurance company finding your mistakes, the other poster was certainly correct on that.

[@garymendham]

I know you're planning to cover the refrigerant lines but, when you wrap them in the tape do it from the bottom towards the top. If you start at the top the overlap is the wrong way and feeds all of the rain etc inside the wrapping which is exactly what you're trying to avoid

[@vet137]

Good tip!!

[@seekershouse]

Makes sense

[@memoal23]

Waiting for a third video follow-up touching that subject 😅

[@AnnLippert-y4w]

GREAT ADVICE! (but if he puts that weatherproof cover over it it will protect it.) but still good info

[@sunnymcalister2366]

Wish I'd thought of that!

[@rockboy2031]

Little note for everyone, by NEC code your breaker will be sized by the Nameplate on the unit. Never size your breaker to your wire, yes 10 gauge is rated for 30 amps, but the unit was rated for 15. So, 15 Amp breaker then you size your wire accordingly. Oversizing your wire does not hurt but is typically reserved for lengths of 100ft+. This is to keep your voltage drop from being more than 3%. Never never never oversize your breaker unless you want to destroy equipment or burn down your house. Hope this helps!

[@willnoe1000]

In addition the size listed on a breaker is there to list at what amp draw it will trip at & is there to protect what the breaker is powering. Example: You use a double pole 30 amp breaker in an application that calls for a 15 amp. In this scenario the breaker will not trip if the appliance being powered pulls more than 15 amps & less than 30 amps, although the appliance should be forced to shut down should it ever pull more than 15 amps via its power source breaker tripping. Without the breaker tripping the appliance will just continue operating in a manner that it wasn’t designed to operate in unless it starts drawing 30 amps or above. Whatever the appliance lists as the maximum crkt breaker protection rating is what size breaker or fuse(s) it should be protected with.

[@clsanchez77]

Exactly, breaker and wiring sizing for appliances is not the same rule of receptacles. Why people should not blindly follow YT videos on how to do things.

[@davidhatesentropy5907]

I’m so glad you made this update. The original really bugged me for all these issues, but great that you took comments seriously and reconsidered.

[@theresahudson7833]

I'm a 64 year old female and I completed a mini split installation using your directions. Truly appreciate it. Of course I had an electrician install the outdoor box but later connected the wires myself. Thank you

[@SageMaven100]

I have had your 1st vid on repeat for a minute now planning my install, and am So grateful for this update. My husband passed unexpectedly and I'm thrown into in a whole new world of diy by myself, so I'm trying to sponge everything. And while a lot can't be trusted on YT, I have faith in the candor in which you present yourself and your information. Thank you!

[@TheUnojoe2]

You can do it! Most of these units are awesome! These units are very picky about keeping the filters and coils clean every couple months.

[@cengeb]

Technically working with r410a needs epa cert 608. Involves test . Just for 5lb charges and below, is theceasiest to get. There are other sections of certs for other systems. 20 years ago didn't matter. It's all changed if pushed,it can be big monetary fi e. Leaking the refrigerantvinto atmosphere on purpose is verboten. And when you finish the hook ups are you installing the locks that go on the refrigerant lines at tge access ports,required now. Pink fircr410a..different colors for different stuff

[@Oncewaslostbutnowimsaved]

Here's a hidden truth.....your husband didn't know what he was doing either, none of us men do. We figure it all out as we go because the job needs to get done. I'm sorry to hear about your late Husband, but I want to encourage you that there's nothing shy of physical strength that will limit you from being able to tackle your own jobs. Best of luck 👍

[@SageMaven100]

@@Oncewaslostbutnowimsaved he may have disputed that, lol, but I thank you so for the encouragement 🙂

[@dallasroberts3206]

@@Oncewaslostbutnowimsaved Very well said, after tackling a few different jobs they become less and less daunting. Find good instructions here on KZbin then find another that corroborates the first with solid comments and proceed methodically. There are times when to call a pro for sure. If you can’t make sense of the instructions or there is any risk involved, call a pro. You’d be surprised how much some will just freely tell you with a phone call. There are some nice people out there. Take care.

[@alanmainwaring1830]

Great to see video's dedicated to DIY people. Here in Australia any authority, trades people completely discourage any DIY. You will not see any videos on DIY electrical installation for example done by Australian's. Every non-qualified person is treated like an idiot in this country. With the internet and videos like this any intelligent person can do a really great job on almost any technical install. I recently installed an 8KW Fujitsu Mini Split I decided to buy the vacuum pump and gauges and Nitrogen, Flaring tools , trunking and so on. The unit has been running virtually 24hrs a day in heat mode and has saved me so much money in electricity costs. Soon be entering summer where temps are expected to get to over 40 degrees C. Thank you so much for the Americans that have a can do attitude with these videos.

[@chad77657]

At this point I'm a plumber, electrician, mechanic. It's one thing to pay someone to do a job once or twice. At some point you have to learn especially if it's within reason.

[@tofan2622]

This is how you know the communists are winning.

[@unholymans]

Honestly they are protecting you and others, Some one who doesn't know electricity shouldn't be doing anything with it, Safety with Electric is very important. a 120volt line can kill you. To run a simply line ( Completely new line is easy) but when you start adding to the home run wires then it gets a bit overwhelming if you dont know the codes and or about electric . Following code is a pain in the Arse but its there for safety reasons , Most the time because some idiot already has been shocked because they didn't belong in a panel.

[@greysuit17]

What makes someone qualified? Haha I figure if you can do it then you’re qualified. The problem with societies is relying on the “professionals”.

[@unholymans]

@@greysuit17 The training and or being taught by a electrician? I mean If you have been around electricians and paid attention to what they do then I would say If you understand why they are connecting this wire to that wire but not connecting this wire and that wire then I guess you might understand enough to run your own electrical connections. But understanding the codes and what you can and cant do .... Even if you can actually do it doesn't mean its safe.

[@JCWren]

I put a 12K BTU Pioneer unit w/ the WiFi module in the basement in my last house. I cut the lines to length, pumped them down, etc. It worked really well, except for two things. One was that the drain line would occasionally get blocked by algae growth. It had the recommended slope and wasn't very long. As a result, several times I had water back up and run down the wall. I'm not sure if it was supposed to have a sensor for that or not, but if it did, it didn't work. The other problem with that model is overall temperature setting. It uses the handheld remote as a "thermostat", but it didn't do a very good job. I would much prefer to have a hardwired thermostat as an option. If the unit can't "see" the remote (which is an infrared based, not radio), it falls back to the internal sensor. Since mini-splits are usually mounted closer to the ceiling, it'll always thinks it's warmer than it actually is. But as far as cooling and heating the basement area, the overall reliability, and just how darn quiet they are, they're awesome.

[@anthonymendoza3487]

Carrier & Trane Mitsubishi have an option for wired remotes. But of course they’re more pricey.

[@gregordiseth6651]

These mini splits typically don't have any way to tell you if the condensate drain is backed up. It is up to the user to check and maintain the drains. On most brands, the remote just sends commands. It doesn't have a thermostat, and it doesn't "see" commands from the indoor unit. The indoor room temp is monitored by a sensor in the indoor unit, and the mini split's CPU manages the compressor and indoor/outdoor fans to maintain the preset temperature.

[@JCWren]

@@gregordiseth6651 Somewhat correct. You can configure the mini-split to use the temperature sent by the remote. Which means when you're not pointing the remote at the unit, you need to remember to set it down where the head can still "see" it, e.g., not pointing into the wall. As far as the condensate level, you'd think it would be easy enough to put a float switch or sensor in the drain pan under the coils and cut the unit off when water is present. Which is exactly what's in the condensate pump or drain pan of a typical household HVAC unit.

[@taburchtech2714]

They have smaller condensate pumps you can fit behind these cassette units, you just need to wire it to the units electrical. I'm not really for DIY when it comes to this, its my job and there's a lot to it than people think especiallyrefrigeration.. but yeah get a condensate pump ,should help.

[@adamdejesus4017]

Definitely the line covers. I didn't like the color of the plastic so I used 2 coats of spray primer and then painted with the same exterior paint I use on my siding. Looks sharp!

[@andyjame6351]

Finally got it up and running. The only delays we had was because we realized we needed some extra parts (I’ll list that below) kzbin.infoUgkxihMYiJNXcHdbH-7ihymsLz61l7jVyb5O . So we have a loft where our current hvac just couldn’t seem to keep cool during the summer. We have been using a window unit since we bought this house over 6 years ago (all the houses in this neighborhood were built in the 80’s and majority of the houses built like ours use a window unit). I hate window units because they are just so noisy and the one we had really only cools one side of the loft. I had contemplated upgrading our current HVAC, but with all the rising prices these days, it would take years before saving up enough to do that. With the advice of my father-in-law (used to run an HVAC business), he recommended we get an inverter instead. We thought we bought everything we needed, but there were just a few other parts we didn’t anticipate needing (which is what caused most of our delay). My friend and father-in-law did all the work to get it installed and running and now we have nice cool air circulating nicely throughout the entire loft. It is very quiet and even the outside unit is much quieter than our main HVAC unit. Saved ourselves thousands getting this.

[@mikebaldwin3395]

I used your original video to do my first Mini Split and found it VERY useful. I was also happy to see these updates. I especially like DIYers who are willing to put out there what mistakes, or improvements they would make. For that, you got a new subscriber. Luckly, I have electrical experience and used both the correct wiring and the breaker. I also cut the pipe to the exact size and flared the ends. All in all - It has been keeping me cool during these weeks of 105 deg+ days here in Texas.

[@replyhere590]

we installed too many splits in 2017 (love series interpretation of that, even got her own name wrong), and I noticed then and have continued to hear that the factory ends on most mini mfrs refrigeration lines are just not what most HVAC techs like, and they re-flare them, even if they're not going to shorten the lines.

[@steveroberts4762]

When you change the breaker, if it really bothers you, put colored tape on the wire ends to make them ANY color you want. (The wires wont care) 😊

[@atmr2525]

That would be up to AHJ, as far as the NEC: 250.119 Edit, exception 1 to 200.6(A) allows to phase romex

[@BartlettTFD]

# 10 gauge would definitely be overkill! However, since you already had the Romex, I would have used it also. The only real drawback is Romex with three # 10 wires within the Romex jacket would be EXTREMELY difficult to work with ❗️ I agree that color coding the white conductor as “red” would be a good idea. Since this was a DIY job, you probably didn’t pull any permits. I’m not sure how your jurisdiction would view that. Actually, at the end of the day, safety is the overriding issue. Any DIY project should be done in a professional craftsman like manner and following the NEC code. It’s driven by fire safety and electrical safety.

[@davidmarquardt9034]

@@BartlettTFD The 10ga was a bit overkill, but better than under sizing. In this case go by the makers specs, they said it required 15 amps, so 14ga and 15 amp breaker.

[@acefr8816]

@@davidmarquardt903410 gauge wire won't hurt anything. In fact, it is better as it has lower resistance. There is no need to change it. Just put red electrical tape at the ends of the white wire to indicate it is a hot wire. It is the breaker that he replaced that matters as it limits the max current allowed.

[@MrRickygee2]

I work on these things all the time and unfortunately you follow the directions to a T which is fine until it breaks and then you realize oh my God I have made it to where I have to tear it all apart just to get to the flares for the drains There are some tricks that I use to make it easier to work on equipment after it is installed number one never put the mounting bracket flat against the wall. If you pump it out a half inch to 3/4 with plywood or sheet rock it makes it much easier to get to the backside especially if your sheet rock isn’t perfectly flat. The first problem most mini splits half is the wheel on the blower gets full of mold! They all do amount of what brand. So when you taking the plastic cover off to get to the wheel to clean you make it much easier on yourself. Also, it gives you some slack with the drain line in case you have to blow the drain line out. I never tape all three lines together like you did, because keeping the drain separate makes it much more accessible down the road when a clogged up good luck to future installs I admire your fearlessness and tackling such a project however, don’t be shy about asking for help and many fellow people that watch DIY KZbinrs get plenty in put from their audience good luck in future endeavors

[@ehudgavron9086]

Thanks for the great tips, and also for explaining the WHY and the HOW and mistakes. We learn from others, and without knowing what others have tried incorrectly can't learn! Just "do what I do" is not enough. So, thank you again for that. Some comments: - A 14.4KBTU unit is $100 more than a 12KBTU unit and the process is the same. Suggest to your viewers to figure out their sqft and usage and go with the biggest unit. - Voltage is not relevant wo wire gauge but amperage is. For up to 15AWG 12AWG is sufficient and 10AWG is fine too. You lose no money points for using 10 gauge wire - You want to share the interior unit ground with the outside unit, OR bore a hole and put in a copper rod and use an external ground. Avoiding that last option means 10/4 not 10/3, with RED and BLACK being hots on two-legs ("split phase") and white for neutral/common and green for ground. - If humidity is a common thing in your neck of the woods, DO NOT OVERSIZE THE UNIT. It will run less, and waste more time removing humidity before cooling, then sit dormant as the temperature climbs. In contrast a properly sized unit will remove humidity and run MORE of the time, contnuing to keep the temps cool and humidity low. The same WORK is accomplished and the same ENERGY is spent only over a cycle that has smaller "humps" and longer run times for the smaller unit. Don't undersize -- that will cause it not to be able to "keep up" which we call "unable to satisfy [requirements of cooling or thermostat]" - You could still cut the excess cord. You just need a vacuum pump and a gauge set. These are $100 at Harbor Freight (yeah I know....) and you can return them after you use them if you like OR rent them out to your neighbors at $10/pop and have it pay for itself in under a year. Personally I'd just leave them up on a shelf for the next time an HVAC unit dies. (Which if you're going there, get a universal start capacitor and refrigerant bottle as well). - You're spot on in changing the breaker down to 15A .. and maybe explaining why would help. SOMETHING needs to be the first thing to blow. We want that to be NOT the motor, NOT the wiring, but the breaker. Sized appropriately it will do exactly that. For a 12K BTU unit (up to my fave the 14.4KBTU unit) a 15A breaker is sufficient. That's also what sits behind most of our north-American receptacles (NEMA 5-15R).

[@shandor2522]

Gosh, how unethical to return a tool after using it!

[@jamesrobinson8065]

THHN is for use in a dry environment. Outside conducts are considered to be a wet environment, not dry, so THWN is the correct conductor rating. Usually, conductors are dual rated THHN/THWN so you may be good to go.

[@PhillyFixed]

Good catch. It's also worth mentioning that aside from being a pain to pull, the Romex/NM-B used originally wasn't appropriate for wet locations, and that the inside of exterior conduits are considered a wet location by the NEC.

[@petefernandes7106]

Most thhn sold is thwn.

[@BadReligionQL]

I can't remember the last time I saw a spool of wire without the dual THHN/THWN rating. Is standard thhn even made anymore?

[@sigcrazy7]

@@BadReligionQLNo, nobody makes THN or THHN anymore. Even if they do, nobody stocks it. It is all THHN/THWN-2 now.

[@robklaproth8144]

Very well done! I just finished my Mr. COOL ones. I went with Mr. Cool for the 7 year warranty as well as the fact that I didn’t want to mess with flaring. I got the line set covers and they are a ROYAL pain to install! You have to drill anchor holes in the side of your house and install anchors. All those holes make me worry about moisture intrusion but we live in so California so not as big of a deal. I plan on priming and painting to match the house when I repaint the house. I also really HATE the coil and will probably get a professional HVAC contractor to come and trim my lines for me. It voids the warranty on Mr. Cool so I may just have to live with it. It’s on the side of my house where no one can see it and I rarely go so, not a big deal. Ironically we have had a cooler summer in San Diego so I haven’t had to run the unit too much but when I do it freezes me out. My electrician ran THHN inside the conduit, 10 gauge. One thing he did to save me money is we got a 500 foot roll of wire and he just did 3 cuts, one for each color and then he color coded it at each end. You don’t need to go to Home Depot and Pay $2 a foot to custom cut 3 colors of wire for you when you can get a bulk roll of wire from an electrical supply place or the depot.

[@Dimka2]

mechanically this is exactly same (gree) there is several models with different tiers of efficiency, but basically if you look at specs and they are exactly same then you most likely have Gree, i think they make few others like senville

[@paulholmes1303]

Installed my TOSOT as soon as the building (Greenhouse/Solar Shed) was ready, based upon your video. I, too, as a controls engineer, did all the wiring to code, but I didn't see the issue about the plumbing until I had already charged the system. After doing essentially what you ended up doing, i.e. physically routing the excess in a horizontal spiral ABOVE the compressor, It should be fine. It has also ran very well and although it has greenhouse windows to cope with as well as Texas sun, it does pretty well. In the cold, it also worked very well, even down to zero, but I used the "anti freeze pipe mode (in the manual!) which automatically keeps the greenhouse (and my wife's citrus bushes) at 42 degrees or higher. That is very frugal and was the primary reason for getting a mini-split. Thanks again for the update sir!!!

[@Gyppor]

How do you find the noise level from the outdoor unit? Does it cycle on/off and run full bore or does it run continuously at low speed? We have a non-communicating Tosot ducted heat pump and it cycles on/off at full power, it gets loud in the winter and we can hear it running. Looking to get a mini split AC for one of our rooms. Thanks!

[@krg038]

Great review. I too did diy mini split installs a year ago. I watched several youtube videos first. Fortunately I bought a Wi-Fi unit and it is great. I also purchased the necessary equipment to do a professional install. Really minor dollars. My first install looked very much like yours and I have actually removed and reinstalled it the right way becomming an expert at evacuation and refilling of freon. Its easy and paying an AC person is a huge waste. The second Mini split install went much better and actually averaged out my tool purchase dollars. I have since then helped 2 neighbors install their mini splits and they were grateful for my " Expertise". The outdoor covers do make everything look very nice. Even though it doesn't get that cold where I'm at the 110° summer temperature the cooling part of the mini split works perfectly. Overall to cool my house uses considerably less electricity. Thanks for your videos.

[@LRN2DIY]

Very cool that you jumped in with both feet and learned so much! That's awesome. I'm sure your friends are grateful for your expertise as well!

[@JohnDoe-hu9ve]

I used your initial video to help me so thanks for that. I actually ended up installing three units in a large shop and one regret I have is that I installed them to the outside wall using L-Brackets very similar to yours. I find the units to be quite loud in terms of vibrating the walls and I regret not putting them on a pedestal or something that was isolated from the building exterior. Several companies make stands for these and I wish I had used one....

[@AnnLippert-y4w]

GOOD POINT ON VIBRATING WALLS!! I also think a pedestal might be better. a cement footing.

[@scaryperson27]

I wouldn't worry about that 10 gauge wiring. I think it's a non-issue. The idea is that you only want to use THHN with the concern being heat. However, with the 16 gauge being enough and you stepping up to 10 gauge, you'll never heat that wire up unless it's a dead short. At which point a 15 amp breaker will trip.

[@markchidester6239]

I was just going to comment this same thing. I looked into what kind of wire is in Romex/NM. Everything I found said it was THHN. Stripping off the sheeting is not allowed per NEC. I believe this is because the wire inside has no markings therefore the wire cannot be identified.

[@7x779]

The 30 amp breaker was the worst mistake. And 16 gauge is not even good for 15 apps so a 15 amp breaker would have still been too big for 16 gauge

[@togoxo]

he never needed special wires for the ac anyway. litterally just and extension cord cable you find aroud the house will just work fine. its not like a 36000 btu ac uses more than 3500 watts its only like 2500 watts peak which is all fine even on the most trash standard cables.

[@togoxo]

also for the breaker, just check the manual it always tells what you need there. when we got our ac installed, the workers just left the tiny bit of cable into the house for us to install it and we just bought the breaker and connected it to a breaker, then the cable coming out of the breaker (that we added) to an outlet in the house. never touched it since it works just fine. wiring really doesnt matter that much in home use cases. i plug my 2200 watt vacuum with a 13 meter cable into an additional extension cord that is also connected to an extension cord that also has the whole tv set router hts and all connected to it and it works just fiinee no issues at all. same with my 2100 watt hair dryer.

[@raysoucie489]

Months ago,I watched your Original Install video-- I opted for a(24,000 BTU) Senville Unit... I called the Company directly and got a nice Discount plus Free freight -- I decided to make a set of videos(Senville Heat Pump Install Series Parts 1-7)-- Everything went smoothly, except with the Evaporator drainage hose-- On my 1st Night of operation I,LITERALLY, filled 2 five gallon buckets from running my Central Air Unit....Thanks for taking the time to explain and SHOW people on how to do the installs

[@ibitaRaptor]

I appreciate this one year updates. It really helps with my decisions and planning. You have had the most useful information in regards to mini splits.

[@Infidel67]

Kudos to you for addressing the Issues you caused, doing everything by the book makes it safer for everyone.

[@BabyGators]

These tips helped me install mine correctly the first time. Specifically the part about laying extra coils horizontally. Thanks!

[@GoodlyEarth]

I absolutely love follow-up videos like this. I always wonder how installs are doing after a few months and years. Nils, thank you for this informative video.

[@slidewaze]

I had the same issue with sun rot on the line set insulation. So,..I installed the cover kit a year after I installed our 18k Pioneer and it seemed to help the unit cool since the line set is on the SW side of the house. It's a good investment. Oh and it's been cooling really well even while it's been 117°F outside. Good video topic. 👍

[@LRN2DIY]

That’s so hot! Glad it’s keeping up Andrew it sounds like we’re on the same page. Got my line set cover on the way.

[@elgringoec]

I also didn't bother to buy the line covers with my initial pioneer order. The first install I used PVC pipe a section of downspout. The next one involved the lines running along an interior wall so pipe and gutter just seemed a little too rustic. So, extra shipping for line covers. I got three sets for the remaining units and I also needed a 25' lineset for one install. In the third year, no regrets.

[@elgringoec]

@@LRN2DIY The outdoor nameplate gives operating current and some display the maximum safe circuit breaker value. And if that's not on the nameplate, it's discoverable in the manufacturer's specs. Then wire is sized to that breaker value. There's no harm to come from going fatter in wire than the NEC minimum, except to the pocket book. For a 15A breaker, 14ga will do. And the electrons don't care what insulation color is. An electrician knows what a 220 circuit is. But if you need to remind yourself (or warn some future DIYer), color the white red with a permanent magic marker. I don't think you'll find a Romex with blk/red/gnd and it would be a waste to go -3w/g to get red. That's only needed when feeding a load with a neutral connection, because the ground connection is free of operating current. And it's fine to put Romex in conduit, you just have to maintain the space requirement of the NEC.

[@nelsonglass6]

Because of your install… I installed my own… I did buy the line covers as an extra layer of protection… summer here is in the plus 100’s… I did follow the electrical requirements… I am also happy

[@SuperOpinion8ed]

Thanks for the follow up. I’m Learning a lot as I go. We have an old house and I’m Discovering a lot of issues. So the simple project is now replacing the whole panel and tracing each circuit. The primary job of the breaker is to protect the wire so you don’t have basically a melting fuse in the walls of your house. It also protects the equipment. But if your breaker is 30A and your wire is 15A (just as an example), that means your wire is actually the fuse or the breaker, and that’s very bad. Never ever put a bigger breaker in somewhere that keeps tripping for example. Also, the 230v will mean you’ll have a suspiciously low current. So we thing “20A? For an ac?” Well, it’s 20a at 230. That’s like 40a at 120 in terms of power. But do follow the recommendations and there’s no need to oversized the wire. That just costs more. And also consider the distance run for drops. Also glad you mentioned the no Romex in conduit. I’m finding a lot of that in this rewiring job.

[@stevestroh1891]

Really nice tight editing and production values! Thanks for caring about your audience to do this followup

[@crabwalk7773]

Nils, it takes quite a person to publically admit any shortcomings. Well done, you! I like knowing your opinion after time of use. Thank you for posting.

[@charlesneal4603]

Or just another Mormon…

[@michaelziegler355]

One install tip . I did not open both refrigerant valves during the installation. So I got an FO error message. That led to all sorts of checks, and when I finally opened the valve, the error message remained. I gave up and called the HVAC folks in. Everything tested perfectly....the only thing needed was a HARD RESET...cutting all power to the unit. Problem solved. I told TOSOT to add this to the suggested solutions for us very problem creative DIYs . Thanks for a great video. It actually made me believe I could do the installation. Saved thousands and the extra 200usd for the HVAC visit was more embarrassing than costly.

[@youcanthide004]

Kudos to you, my friend, it takes a real man to come forward and point out his own shortcomings mistakes whatever you wanna call him. I have the upmost respect for you, I just started following you and love your channel. Thanks man.

[@paulshampine2814]

Thank you for the update Nils. A man of integrity. I found a deal at Home Depot on the 18k TOSOT with WiFi and will follow your instructions. Thank you for taking the time. I'm grateful for the information. TOSOT: Give him a new one with WiFi!

[@buckfoss102]

I stumbled upon your chan about a year ago for something or other and could instantly relate to your everyday slightly goofy, somewhat handsome with a slight paunch (perfect!), slightly puttering dad who just gets things done around the house. Later figured out that you're from Utah (I'm originally from Montana) so even more relatable. But at the time, I learned whatever it was I needed to learn and moved along my way. Now down in Houston, I decided I wanted a mini-split for my garage shop and decided to do some research and stumbled upon you again. Really excellent series and really gave me the confidence that I could do this. Just wanted to say thank you for your Chan - excellent job.

[@billymarr291]

As an HVAC professional I am glad you kept the loop. The reason being is with inverter compressor systems they tend to migrate oil the loops ensure that you have proper oil return

[@pietersmit621]

How does that work ? Does the bottom of the loop not trap liquids ?

[@sprockkets]

The reason is mini splits run at low superheat and expect liquid returns. So it just hits the accumulator and won't hurt the compressor.

[@baconbot3106]

Also if he were to remove some of the cover line it could change the amount of Refrigerant used in the system.

[@mickbrown815]

Thank you for the honesty and your comments on your video! I’m in the process of trying to decide which manufacturer to go with when I found your video while doing my research on tosot, della, pioneer, carrier and others like mr. cool as well. We’re thinking of putting it in our master bedroom that has been notoriously hot these past 18 years.!! I’m glad its working great. Tosot was my first choice reading the reviews. I’m starting to see more and more out at office, businesses and homes. I’m a DIY person but I will go through a a/c company because of the warranty and wife😬😂 Thanks again.

[@sprockkets]

While in general for split systems you cannot have coiled linesets, for mini splits, it's not actually bad. This is because they run at low superheat, and they have a bit of liquid refrigerant return so that oil doesn't get trapped. Even Gree is OK with this, because with their units, a 10 ft lineset minimum length is mandatory. I just put one in this week. I had a vacuum level of 68 microns after waiting 5 min after isolating from the vacuum pump. If you can't achieve that, you will have leaks, and ignoring it will only cause major issues later.

[@scotts4125]

I had to run my line voltage through the attic from one garage to another and out to the disconnect. I have a low voltage friend who actually ran the wires in the attic but I made all the connections. He didn't want to use THHN as I wanted so mine also was all ran in one continuous piece of Romex. I have the inside unit above my Snap-On boxes with white lineset covers running down the inside garage wall mostly behind the boxes. I came out low so the lineset covers on the outside would be covered by the landscaping on the horizontal run to the condenser. All you see on the outside is the condenser hanging on the hurricane rated wall bracket. I ran brown covers on the outside to match the gutters even though you can't see them. I ran waterproof conduit under the outside lineset. I also placed the condenser far out enough that I didn't have any coiling. It really is a nice install.

[@sammagna1485]

Kudos for self-acknowledging your "intentional" habit. I didn't actually notice you using it, but none the less. FYI i also used to use "intentional" a lot. One day my keynote coach suggested i consider "purposeful" as an occasional alternative. IMO volleying between the two made my public speaking stronger:) thanks for your videos.

[@frankbeck3044]

I’ve noticed a lot of these do it yourself mini split videos don’t go into great detail step by step in wiring from the electrical panel to the unit. What the breaker looks like, what size breaker, how many wires what size wire and how it’s properly installed so no one gets electrocuted or shorts the system out

[@Duhamal]

Great to see the follow up. I will say our units in Arizona are struggling a little but we have had this record heat! When I say struggling a little the unit I installed down stairs is set to 72 and its 110-116 out and the room is still sitting at 74-78. So its still working like a champ and our electric bill has been running $100 or so less than usual. Very happy with our installs earlier this year.

[@Bryan-Hensley]

Record heat??? That's funny. Do some research. 1913 still holds the records

[@johnunsicker7440]

Your problem might be the unit is just a little undersize for the area or needed more then one indoor unit. These systems are very forgiving and going up one size won't hurt anything.

[@keithwiebe1787]

@@Bryan-Hensley Are you saying that they aren't experiencing record heat?

[@Duhamal]

@@keithwiebe1787 He is just a big bad KZbin toll.

[@Duhamal]

@@johnunsicker7440 Yeah, I agree. The upstairs unit is definitely undersized and should have been larger. This install was sort of a proof of concept for me. Around here they are only "garage" units and most installers balk at installing them in the house. Yet they are used all over the world outside of the US. They are still saving us money this summer which proves their value. I think over the fall/winter I am going to install a few more in my office and guest room. Also upgrade the units already installed. We have used the main central AC very little so far.

[@AdventureAndy208]

Purchased my 18k wifi Tosot unit off their website yesterday with 15% discount. Will be cutting the lines to min length of 10 feet. 15amp breaker with 12-2 romex through the attic to disconnect on back wall of garage. Thanks for the videos.

[@martyjosephson4937]

After having mine installed for my A/C unit, I was told to spray foam the bottom end to seal it from critters accessing that runway to your attic.

[@onmyworkbench7000]

About 3 years ago I installed a Pioneer Mini Split system and I love it, It did order a WIFI dongle with it so I can control the unit from my phone. It has been in the mid to upper 90's here in Tennessee and it has done an outstanding job keeping shop cool. This past winter we got well below freezing for several days and it kept the shop warm. If I had to to do over again I would have mounted it on the side of my workshop like you did, I mounted mine on a concrete pad and ever year in the fall I have to keep clearing away the leaves. Some day I will make a screen to keep the leaves out.

[@GaryT1952]

Enjoyed the follow up video and the regrets are pretty obvious. One thing I dislike about the DIY mini-splits are the coils of extra refrigeration line because they come pre-charged. I paid a HVAC contractor to do a proper install of the lines which consisted of evacuating, cutting to proper length, installing and recharging...$ well spent.

[@VegasMikeP229]

The unit I put in maybe 12-15 years ago was a DIY. Worked well but never great. It died a few years ago and like you, had a professional put this one it. It cools noticeably better, and in a Las Vegas summer, that's important.

[@cardboardboxification]

the lines can be any length to a point , the charge is weighed in ,

[@shandor2522]

@@VegasMikeP229More likely the new technology is what’s better, not the probinstallation.

[@hgbugalou]

I can appreciate a follow up with mistakes made. DIYers are bad about not doing that on here. You're electrical mistakes were not dangerous, but I am glad you took the time to correct them. As a DIYer myself, my goal is to do a project in a way that a pro wouldn't be able to tell a DIYer did it. I do this by learning the things needed well ahead of time. I usually take 6 months to read up and and watch various youtube videos before taking on a major project and did the same with my minisplit. Biggest mistake I see DIYers do with them is not bothering to flush the lineset with nitrogren a few times before putting them under a vacuum. It will work without that, but it is going to shorten the life of your unit to some degree.

[@acefr8816]

Nitrogen test is a quick way to find leaks, but is not easy and cost effective for a DIYer. DIYers can check leaks without using nitrogen on a newly installed system by using a micron gauge and the refrigerant in the lineset.

[@superscifi12]

​@@acefr8816NO! Do not do this! You don't know how many times I've been called to a system that is not working and it is flat, because of this practice.

[@acefr8816]

@@superscifi12 It is definitely doable without nitrogen. I agree that Nitrogen test is a quick way to check leak under positive pressure, but one can partially release the refrigerant, check for leak and then fully release the refrigerant and run it in heat mode to check for leak again to achieve the same result. The nitrogen is not going to be at higher pressure than the refrigerant under heat mode.

[@TheParot161]

We had a mini-split professionally installed, and it’s great! Super quiet, energy efficient, and effective. But, I cannot get it to dehumidify at all. It cools the room just fine, but it will not drop the humidity level more than a few points. So, I do keep a dehumidifier going when needed.

[@Rico-oy3dc]

That is strange. It should dehumidify, with a safety to interrupt a pump. I would assume the fan speed over coil has an issue or squirrel cage dirty?

[@new2000car]

Someone on another yt channel said to google “inverter mini split humidity problem “ (if yours is an inverter style compressor) because they essentially slow down the compressor as needed, which keeps the evaporator coil much warmer, (45-55f), so very little dehumidification occurs-unless you change a few jumper settings. Then it would use more power (less than running a separate dehumidifier) but would do what you need it to do.

[@TheParot161]

@@new2000car Thank you so much for the advice! I will look into it. I hate running a dehumidifier because it totally defeats the energy savingS of the mini-split

[@sprockkets]

Two things. This actually can be an issue in the south, esp if the unit is oversized. You can either run the unit in dry mode, or actually make sure you have a humidity problem. Don't go by %humidity. Go by dew point. If you are around 55 deg dew point, you are fine.

[@new2000car]

@@sprockketsyou’re right. Can you explain how the system accomplishes dehumidification when the dry mode is selected? It must behave more like a portable dehumidifier where the heat from the condenser coil warms the room. Also true about relative humidity vs. absolute humidity. Currently my dewpoint in FL is 75 degrees, and it’s only 76 out. My phone app calculates 95% relative humidity. People who have oversized units are miserable this morning, but they’re idiots for 2 reasons; firstly, they proudly went vastly oversized (“I want to be COLD” and “well it was only a hundred dollars to go up a ton, so it was a no brainer to go up a couple of tons”) then when they inevitably suffer they refuse to correct it or even discuss it.

[@johnbunker5102]

We used 4" plastic eaves trough turned against the wall with the line underneath it. It looks great, matches the trough on the house and gives me all the protection I need.

[@TheOldGuyPhil]

My thoughts exactly. How did you do the top of the gutter? Standard en dcap?

[@johnbunker5102]

@@TheOldGuyPhil Exactly. Keeps water from running down the inside of the trough.

[@UncleFui]

You can still add the pvc line cover for the pipes, you can use tape to mark over the white wire it's not even a big deal. The breaker yes I would definitely go with a lower amp for future safety concerns.

[@billykulim5202]

those discolored are just a cheap AC tape, why bother by it? just buy new tape and wrap it

[@dougj8186]

Great video. Wiring code is complicated for a DIYer as I found out. Romex inside conduit indoors might be OK, but leaving the plastic sheathing there is also a percentage of volume of the conduit cross sectional area that you can exceed. It's based on a formula and not easy to figure out. Romex can't be used at all in conduit outdoors, wet, or underground. Around my house there is lots of that done by licensed electricians. I stripped out 12/2 Romex from the sheathing and used the wires in conduit for a project. Also not to code. Same as THHN off a spool but not labeled. I heard some manufacturers have the specs on a data sheet that might be accepted. It's all accessible to pull new wire if needed. Where I'm at it's $200 per hour and they don't know when their electricians can get to you. Worry about code later or forget it. These DYI mini-splits are great, a fraction of the cost. Mr. Cool units I've installed came with 25' lines. That's a lot to string out and avoid coiling, even if just for appearance. A coil looks hokey. Mr. Cool's pre-charged lines is a nice feature but they don't have a DYI 9,000 BTU model. Also, pre-charged lines if they need to be shortened means a lot things to consider well beyond a DIYer. Even 16' lines are a challenge for adjacent bedrooms. I just did 3 with Senville 9,000 BTU units.

[@ehrichweiss]

The rusty color is likely rust from nails(or other metal) on your roof) that is combining with water and then dripping onto your lines. FYI, you can also use plastic downspouts instead of the covers. I have worked on several places that used it.

[@vet137]

Hey good idea thanks!!

[@J4-kjtdr8775]

At least you fixed it and showed what you did wrong. That's more than i can say for most people these days

[@Enduro_Urbano]

I installed mine watching your video and here I am again. I did go with the plastics ducts from the beginning so no issue there. It does look cleaner. I also cut the lines but had an issue with leakage but that was due to not tightening the lines enough and not cutting them. It does look better without all the extra pipes looped around. Tossot is great product. I really like it.

[@ryanyoder7573]

I’ve had five EG4 mini splits installed and love them. Very professionally installed and all work great.

[@Frank-px7df]

When ordering a lineset cover kit order a 4 inch kit. I have intalled three minisplits, on the first two I used 3 inch kits and on the third I used a 4 inch kit. The extra inch in width makes the install much easier.

[@Coleen_West]

nice! -- QUESTION -- This is a 120volt system. Does that mean I can simply plug it into the power like I do a TV, or must I get an electrician to hook up power wires. I want to be able to plug a power cord into a normal three prong plug and be done with it. (of course, I will hang the unit etc. I just can't mess with the electrical cables in my property - not allowed.

[@DKWalser]

In the summer of 2020, I installed a MrCool mini-split in my shop. Then, in the Fall, I asked my A/C guy to shorten the lines to get rid of the large coil of excess line. He did it for less than $100. (He did it while he was checking the pressures and cleaning our other A/C units. IIRC, the amount he charged us in 2020 for the service call was less than $50 more than what he'd charged in 2019.) I think it's a great way to make sure your DIY install was done correctly and to get rid of excess length in your lines.

[@ronmorrell9809]

The shown line set cover is $5/foot. I used 2x3 inch vinyl downspouts to encase my total of 150 feet (4 indoor units). I used a saw to split it down the middle of the back side. Less than a dollar per foot.

[@ClintGray-u6v]

no name units are junk mitsubishi are best

[@ronmorrell9809]

Mitsubishi offers a 7 year Warranty. The ACiQ store-brand offered 11 years on the compressor. If it's junk, I will get them to replace it. Made by Midea, IIRC. @@ClintGray-u6v

[@cengeb]

that's not correct, get the proper line hide..it's better, and looks better

[@RickyTeachey]

I just bought two 9k BTU TOSOT mini splits for $529 each on a WOOT! flash deal. thanks for this video, made it an easy decision to snatch them up.

[@fauxque5057]

I'm going with the EG4 unit. It has a built-in mppt solar charge controller. Just add some solar panels and you have free ac during the day.

[@redjr16]

I don't have any regrets about any of my install, because my last unit was replacemented with a larger BTU rating. (1) I chose to mount my evaporator on my concrete foundation wall for 2 reasons; a - I had enough exposed concrete foundation to do so, but more importantly, b - since my split-mini is being used in my HT/audio listening room, I didn't want to risk possible vibrations from the condenser leaking into the room using the wall as a baffle. And, I offset the condenser as much as I could, away from the main install wall. So far so good. (2) Another issue I had to deal with, with this new unit (Pioneer), was the pre-bent lineset coming from the inside evaporator. It would have been near impossible to bend them prior to putting them through the inside wall and making a 90 degree turn. There just wasn't enough room. So, I had to bend them on the outside and using my pipe bending tool, was not able to get a clean, short 90 degree bend coming down along the outside wall. The top 3rd of the lineset was sticking out from the outside wall withn a bigger bend than I wanted. So ultimately, I had to DIY a wood enclosure around the lineset that ran from the hole about halfway down the outside wall. It looks fine, but since my unit is on the backside of the house, it is not exposed to neighbors visually, as it back up to a 'forever green' easement on our property. I painted the enclosure the same color as our cedar siding and it blends in nicely. The other half of the lineset is covered with plastic shrouding you ended up using.

[@fcschoenthal]

I bought my 12k BTU Tosot on sale for $699 (vs $899) through WOOT and installed it a couple of months ago. Installation was easy, especially after watching your videos. The only issue I've had is it keeping up with the Texas heat, when it's 110° outside, it only cools to around 80° inside. Still a lot better than doing an unintentional water pop on my projects. - Chris

[@anthonymendoza3487]

Insulate better or get a higher BTU unit to keep up with the heat load.

[@fcschoenthal]

@@anthonymendoza3487, Insulating better is my next project. I plan on removing the roll-up garage door completely and building a fully insulated wall in it's place. If that doesn't get the desired results, upgrading to the 18k unit is the next step. - Chris

[@Bryan-Hensley]

I love hearing stories like this. I make a ton of money replacing diy systems.. Just wait until your home owners insurance finds out you installed your own heating and cooling equipment.

[@hightecrebel]

@@Bryan-Hensley Far as I can tell most don't care. Biggest issue for homeowners insurance is if it was done "properly" - were permits pulled (if required), wiring up to code, etc. In some big cities I've heard it's a bit different (NYC/Boston/L.A., etc.) but most suburbs and rural areas it's not a problem.

[@Bryan-Hensley]

@@hightecrebel I believe in the right to do your own stuff, but the insurance companies are getting ridiculously strict. That's where we are losing freedoms. Insurance companies are taking control by denying your coverage.

[@Shalmaneser1]

Thank you for the follow-up. My biggest complaint about DIY KZbin content creators is how often they edit out their missteps. My pet peeve is the car people.

[@calvissuperman]

Also depending on your location, electrical code dictates you must have an accessible outlet for servicing within a certain distance of the unit. Usually, I just install a better disconnect with a 20amp GFCI outlet inside the disconnect. This may not be required in your area, but I promise you adding it will only take a bit more time/material for a VERY useful outlet. No need to run a 50' extension cord just to work on the unit, and it protects you with the GFCI which most extension cords don't.

[@lupocci]

Is it up to code to have it installed in a wood frame wall with brackets? I think as for code it has to be on a 4" thick concrete pad. Plus on wood you would have a lot of vibration. Thoughts?

[@HangarQueen]

I installed mine last week -- 12000BTU Tosot with built-in WiFi, using your $100 discount code from your original video (thanks). I also insulated my garage overhead door and sealed things up pretty well. Loving that I can finally use my garage hobby shop in comfort during this endless FL heatwave. That reminds me: "Alexa, turn on garage ac" ('coz I'll be heading out there shortly).

[@LRN2DIY]

Nice!

[@JeronimoStilton14]

Did you pull a permit?

[@HangarQueen]

​@@JeronimoStilton14 I'll plead the 5th to that. ;-) Heck, it's in a cinder-block garage!

[@POLOLOUS3]

I would add if you don’t already rubber isolator pads between the wall brackets and the condenser.

[@1Akanan1]

I wish more DIY channels would do this kind of videos. There isn't a single project i had the afterthought ''well, i've done that perfectly'', i always wish i could redo it again or at the very least done some steps differently. I still learn everytime i do something, and i always hit moments i have to stop and think about this unforeseen situation. With all those homeowner experience years, i still have ''problems'' to solve everytime i'm on something, I can't help it. Where i've improved the most tho, it's to give better estimate to my wife about how long i'll need to accomplish next project.

[@robertsmith2956]

I'm moving the outside unit to the side to take up the extra line length. The hardest part with the covers is finding the dimensions. They say 3 or 4", but that is only the width, and you can see they are rectangular in pictures, line set had two dimensions that need to fit.

[@Guitarsnspraycans]

Good to see the 3 things I saw were the 3 things you want to change, how about vibrations thru the wall?

[@huezola]

Thanks for sharing. I’m almost ready to buy everything and install my new system.

[@VegasMikeP229]

Love this video! I've had a split units in my garage for over ten years and they are fabulous!! I did a DIY around 12 years ago and it died a few years ago. Now I have a different brand but a name brand and it was installed by a professional. Mine is 110VAC with a remote control that has the sensor in it that the AC watches. I'm in Las Vegas and it's been 110F-115F for the last couple of weeks and the AC can keep up with it. I did get lucky because the only place I could put the outside unit is on the east side of the house, which puts it in the shade in the (hot) afternoon. Mine costs me about $100 per month to run.

[@fredc8618]

100 a month for how many btu and or units?

[@blujeans9462]

What was the difference in your annual electric bill before and after install? And do you run it pretty much continuously?

[@AgentOffice]

It's hundreds less if you cool one room vs the house

[@blujeans9462]

@@AgentOffice I thought these had the capacity to cool an entire floor, if it had a rating of, say, 1500 sf.

[@AgentOffice]

@@blujeans9462 they're used per room. Some have multiple heads tho like 2 rooms

[@AgentOffice]

@@blujeans9462 maybe you're looking at a system they can't do four heads but usually you wouldn't always turn them all on maybe one or two

[@1Resare]

About to do an install myself and found your updates useful. Only feedback is that the gauge of the wire is primarily relevant to the current flowing through it, not the voltage. Going with 220 system actually allows you to use thinner wire as current is half for the same amount of power over 110v lines. If you are concerned with 220, keep in mind that it is symmetrical relative to neutral, so both phases are essentially 110v unless you happen to short them. In the next update perhaps you can dispel the idea that you need thicker wire to run such a (relatively) low power system.

[@358studios]

Hey, great video. Nice showing people the errors made. Wiring can always be tricky if you don't size it correctly. Also some of these units come with the hoses pre-charged and you would not want to cut and flare those particular brands. Just FYI. Thanks again.

[@humbertocruz5952]

The electrical wire needs to match the breaker's ampacity. Some inspectors will check for this with a magnifying glass. I did the same instsallation an I'm using a 20A 2P. CB. Some localities won't allow the larger breaker, so you need to check carefully. Some inspectors will check to see if your circuit breaker is labeled as an "HACR" (Heating, Air Conditioning and Refrigeration) circuit breaker. Good job on your installation and your regrets are very honest👍👍👍👍

[@CancunManny]

@4:30 Not sure if the standards for minisplit sold in USA are different, but here in Mexico it is common for the "copper" lines to just have copper on the ends, but the lines are actually aluminum. If you have aluminum lines with copper tips, you can't just cut the line to length and flare the tips, since you would be trying to flare the actual aluminum line that won't make a good seal with the connectors. Old school, 100% copper lines/tubes can easily be cut to length and quickly flare the ends to make a good connection.

[@JamesWHurst]

Good video, thanks for creating/sharing this. Just a FIY: it is current, not voltage, that wants a fatter wire-conductor. Thus, going to 230V vs 115V, means you're using half the current for the same wattage, not more. That's why 230V is actually more efficient, and one shouldn't be shy to use the rated wire just because it's a higher voltage. That being said, there shouldn't be anything wrong with bumping-up the wire cross-section if you want to: all that does is reduce your resistive loss.

[@randyhays4620]

Always size your OCP within the range on the equipment label ..MOP or Maximum Over-Current Protection and the Minimum OCP. White conductors are identified as Neutral. Red or Black are un-grounded "hot" current carrying conductors, common mistake when using romex. You can always use colored tape to identify conductors at terminations, but one should use the appropriately colored conductor.

[@BadReligionQL]

Technically you cannot reidentify anything smaller than a #6. It's done all the time and I don't really see an issue with it. Also the white wire can be used as a hot if the wire was a 10/2, being a 10/3 the red should have been used.

[@christianpalermo9565]

Was it easy to move the extra coils beneath the outdoor unit? I want to do that but I'm afraid I'd end up with damage to the copper coil or the screw-on fittings and have a leak. Did you detach them first?

[@scottk3292]

I learned from some HVAC guys, who were doing an install at my condo, that you want to minimize the refrigerant line length, or the unit won't work as well. About those line covers: it looks like the cover would have required an angle in your line near 90 degrees. I believe the HVAC guys said every right angle like that effectively adds 5 feet of length to your refrigerant lines, hurting the effectiveness of the unit. If you had added the 90 degree angle and also cut your lines shorter, those changes might have cancelled out.

[@thmsmgnm]

Lolol. They used to leaved loops of copper line laying in attics because there were companies selling precharged units kits with 50ft of copper. One size fits most kind of deal, it easier just to leave the excess behind.

[@Zoyx]

I installed one Tosot in the living room. A 2nd one is on the way for the bedroom. I plan on using a white plastic downspout as the cover for the line set.

[@bleedbluecougar]

Thank you for all your videos! I have loved them! I am deciding.which unit to buy. The reviews on the Tosot units aren't great - i'm curious if after 2+ years of owning and using this unit - is it still holding up well? Have you had any maintenance issues with it? Would you recommend it?

[@ishmaelwilliams304]

Thanks for posting your updates! I didn’t do mine yet but I did read the comments and were going to implement those changes you highlighted. Again thanks for doing this video it helped me to feel more confident in doing it myself!!

[@eraldmd]

Kudos for the clear and precise videos as well as admitting what is wrong and be willing to fix it

[@Apollo_Blaze]

Hey, great video!...I can tell that your very comprehensive presentation was intentional.😉...Seriously the info here is great, thanks!

[@carriep7812]

Be careful if you decide to shorten your lines, they're metric. A 1/4" flaring tool will not flare the 6mm line. Sure, you could wrap it with sandpaper, aluminum foil, or any of the other materials that have been used, but why? Get a flaring tool that's got metric and imperial. Great videos, big fan. I really like your style and delivery. I've watched many of your videos. And by the way, it's because of you that I took got a Tosot. My unit does have the WiFi and I can control it via Alexa, so that's super convenient!

[@ericwotton2046]

Another small note on the electrical. Your putting a sqaure D homeline breaker in an Eaton BR panel, should be sn eaton breaker.

[@denverbraughler3948]

Using #10 THHN-2 is perfectly fine and efficient. Cutting your tubing short depends on the manufacturer’s instructions. But there is a reason that the manufacturer specifies a minimum tubing length, e.g., 3 m. Cutting a 25’ set to 13’ is okay. Cutting a 10’ set to 3’ might create a problem. Check with the manufacturer.

[@ts-handyman]

Your compressor will last longer using the 10 gauge wire. Even though it's an inverter type, my experience has shown that when you use the minimum size wire on your AC, your compressor motor just doesn't live as long. As far as Romex in EMT, yes it's not technically the "right" way, you'll never have a problem with it.

[@bradclements1815]

Hi, thanks for your video. Could you please comment on vibration from the outside unit through the wall mount? Do you notice any issue with that and/or would choose a ground installation next time? thanks

[@GuestInvitado-gd3bi]

If stranded No. 16 AWG came with the unit, then it is correct and safe. Good video, enjoyed watching.

[@michaelalbert8474]

I installed my unit in my travel trailer. Works so good. I used plastic downspouts to hide my tubing

[@daviddykes3026]

EXACTLY why I did the research on the companies in my area that do installations of these, a picked a few of the highly rated ones, got my estimates, and decided on one of those companies. Install went perfectly, taking about 3.5 hours. Could NEVER have done it myself with no issues, and I'm pretty darned handy. If you have any doubts in your ability to do the installation yourself, HIIRE a PROFESSIONAL COMPANY with a good reputation to do the job - it'll save many headaches. I'm loving my new mini split system.

[@jgcolema]

I got a Tosot based on your video. I installed it myself (except Disconnect Electric) and I am happy with mine. My garage/workshop temp runs at 78 in summer and 68 in winter. Perfect so far!

[@johnnymcleroy6363]

When covering refrigerant lines I used gutter down spouts and two 90 els and strap it to the wall.

[@briandb35]

One thing that you may not be thinking about is oil return through the refrigerant lines, by having a the excess lines coiled below the unit you are creating a giant oil trap, and will shorten the life of the compressor. Especially if the unit spends a great deal of time running at low load conditions

[@TodaysKinetoScope]

This video showed up after I was watching the other one! I left the comment as it was and jest letting you know am happy that you corrected the wiring coloration usage! I do however hope you changed the circuit breaker to the correct amperage for the unit! having that coil of tubing under the outside unit, be sure to add some protection in-case it's struck with an object whilst cutting your lawn or weed eating around the house/shop!

[@humbertopicardi9440]

On the subject of the possibility of cutting the refrigerant lines, try to avoid if the unit comes with its own set of lines and comes precharged (most do). Setting aside problems with cutting neatly and flaring and cleaning burrs properly, while the manuals often don't state this, if you cut too short the unit might trip on overpressure, especially in heat mode. Ours ship with 16 ft lines and the minimum length is 11.5ft

[@Dimka2]

Installed 18k btu version for my garage seems to be fine so far, I even applied for permit passed without any issues .. used this video and few others for reference. now i am tempted to swap out my main with central air heat pump, but next year they will roll out with r32 refrigerant version, says its supposed to be 10% more efficient so will wait for that

[@ffattractions]

Thanks so much for your video. I've watched it multiple times . I have three mini splits that i'm installing . First one, as I was doing the evac, the blue line gauge only got down to ten below and stayed there after twenty five minutes.. Once I opened up the lines. I heard a slight hissing and stepped inside my cabin and it was much louder, instead of turning off the lines immediately I had to go to the inside unit to continue to hear the hiss, l o l! By that time I was done, I put everything away turned off the lines. so when I go back out there? My plan is to take the inside unit off the wall and I guess check the nuts again. I don't have any seal on them . I'm thinking that's the problem. I'm assuming that I blew all my freeon out somewhere. Do you have a video as to how to add the freon? Or is that where the line that was not used for vacuum The one on the right side comes into play? Again, thanks for your videos really appreciate you. Donn O, OKC