DIY Pendular Rudder Pedals | Custom F-14 Tomcat Pedals

SOURCES AND FILES:
All Files (.Dxf, .stl, .ino): www.dropbox.com/sh/fww8c7iv07...
Arduino Hall Sensor:
create.arduino.cc/projecthub/...
Arduino Joystick Library: github.com/MHeironimus/Arduin...
Any Details that are missing in the video should be covered in the ReadMe
in the source files.
Music: Meteor - Defender of the Fleet (Heatblur F-14 Original Soundtrack)
Big Thanks to my friend Korozija for helping me out with the electronics side of this project.
Me after finaly finishing this video: • It's Done. It's Over.

[@waldobean7534]

Been planning rudder pedals for months, just searched types of sensors and KZbin delivers me your complete pedals. Thank man! They are amazing. The hours you spend is really appreciated.

[@DelicAlmin]

Great job. I like how strong they look and how smooth they operate...

[@Beslaga007]

Simply amazing. Can’t wait to become your apprentice!

[@funwithfitswell6609]

Love the hidden hall effect sensor. So very well planned out!!!!!! Thank you for sharing

[@goramiir]

Fantastic build, they look amazing.

[@Sovek86]

THANK YOU for showing a full video on this. I came across someone who built something similar but it was pictures on a forum and I couldn't see the exact mechanisms to replicate. I'm currently putting together plans for my return to MSFS since 2005/2006. I'm planning on ordering a yoke and throttle quadrant from Honeycomb but there's no quality and value rudder pedals on the market. I could always do what I did back in the day and have the computer assist with the rudders, but that makes crosswind landings tricky and single engine landings impossible.

[@Waylander131]

excellent solution Sir, good job! And the best of all is that you're sharing your ideas with everyone. I may borrow some of the ideas in my build. I think 10mm steel is a bit of overkill but that's a personal preference. I would probably add some weight to the bottom base plate and use perhaps 5mm for the housing. We'll see...

[@insidetheviper]

Wow! That's an amazing work. I love it.

[@cyberdeckcipher]

this is amazing! I've been working on my rudder pedal project for some weeks now, but i'll try to recreate yours! Thank you very much for sharing this project :)

[@rizwanmorshedrion9868]

Did that work perfectly?

[@robertdemiro4050]

really great job, congratulations ! I am impressed

[@colins2]

Superb! Excellent video footage as well. I have home-made rudders that work very well but the action is not realistic. Your pedals really are the best design I have seen.

[@davidhermosilla6942]

Excelente!!!!! Really a clear, practical and detailed video, It really inspired me to attempt to build such artifact, Saludos desde Chile!

[@SkyriderOfficial]

Beautiful job

[@VukNS1987]

Matori, svaka čast. Hoću sebi da napravim pedale. Tvoj video mi je odlična zvezda vodilja. Neću ja moći to ni približno kao ti, jer treba fabrika za obradu metala, ali mi je svakako od velike koristi. Pozdrav.

[@butangviber]

Really nice work!

[@nikoaton]

For more guys like this hero! Thank you very much!

[@jamieswartz9909]

Me: wow this guy is so smart and skilled. Let me check out his channel to see what other genius videos he has! Benjo: "tonk shoot plen"

[@Benjo0]

😅

[@brunoferlin62]

Great job. Thank you for sharing.

[@Darrylx444]

Good stuff! Congrats

[@TheWoodWorkingPilot]

Great job! Thanks for sharing

[@pushingbus1]

Very nice work

[@jimhinkle7245]

Very Very impressive work!!!!!

[@jindlespog8045]

Excellent!

[@danieldelaney768]

Wow, nice job!

[@Sokol10]

Nice craftsmanship. And very well done video, congratulations. Could consider a CAM center system option for have a less "clunk" center transition.

[@Sovek86]

This is probably only a problem for fighter simmers and not the pressurized tube simmers. In the latter case you want smooth rudder movements and if you're moving them left and right like that you're doing something wrong... the former is probably where it matters as you need split second snap movements.

[@Handskemager]

Nicely done, ty for the video.

[@wikuscombrinck512]

great work!!!

[@TNT-tf9jd]

Beautiful job! Woohoo!

[@patrickmaartense7772]

great project ... sturdy as a (hellcat)

[@ChongMcBong]

very nice design :)

[@dabid1337]

this was one of the most interesting videos i have seen in a while, probably not worth you time, but would be super cool to see you make a custom stick

[@Benjo0]

Super late reply here, I'm afraid I don't consider myself capable enough with electronics for such a project, but I have a friend who knocked one out the park: kzbin.info/www/bejne/aIWoeqOdmL-KY9k check it out.

[@marekmazur2925]

Masterpiece!

[@EPPBuilder]

Great work :-)

[@marcseclecticstuff9497]

Thank you so much for posting this video and including all the design materials. It would be nice if you could include .step files as they are much easier to edit compared to .STL files for those who plan to adapt it to a 3D printer friendly design. I just ordered the WinWing Orion HOTAS system and was looking to upgrade my well over 15 year old tried and true CH Products Pro Pedals. I started sniffing around current commercial offerings and really liked the Thrustmaster pedestal mounted pedal design, but not the silly $600 price tag. I have a nicely equipped home shop with a manual Bridgeport 9x42 step pulley mill, and a Monarch 10ee lathe. I repair CNC machine centers and one of our plants has a burn table so I can easily replicate the parts since you kindly provided .DXF's of em', but I'll probably stick to whittling them out here in my home shop. There's just a lot more pride and satisfaction after you take a pile of scrap metal and form it into something incredibly useful with your own hands vs sticking stock in a machine and pushing the big green crash button. You've saved me a bunch of work trying to reverse engineer the Thrustmaster design from online photos and really knocked it out of the park. What a clever design and implementation - Well done Benjo! Because of my machinist background I'll probably modify it using Timken style bearings and machined axles for the main pedal pivots to stiffen the pedals as the cantilevered shaft places a substantial load right at the root there and I notice some lateral flexing in your design (threaded rod axles flex/bend a lot easier/more due to the missing material on the periphery due to the threads). I have a lot of bits of aluminum laying about the shop so I'll probably use that to fabricate the pedals as well. I plan to stick the support tube in an index head and mill straight knurling across to provide some grip for your shoes. Finally, I might have a play around with using a cam based centering system using a 3D printed cam and a small cam follower bearing to allow for progressive stiffness as it's depressed further. Will also play around with getting 16-bit hall effect sensors to work so the resolution matches that of the Orion stuff. Never played around with hall effect stuff so that will be interesting. I keep Pro Micros in stock here in the lab as they are so useful for making anything keyboard/joystick related. Not just for PC stuff, they can be used to automate anything that uses a standard PC keyboard such as test equipment, microscopes, etc.

[@Benjo0]

Was a pleasure reading your comment and I thank you for that. Obviously there are a few flaws in my project that you mentioned that could be massively improved upon. Such as using a Cam centering system to remove the 'clunk' as well as to add a smoother progressive stiffness. The lateral flexing on the swing arm bearings is definitely there but luckily I've had no issues with it in a year of using the pedals. And lastly the 10-bit default arduino Micro isn't optimal when it comes to resolution, especially with how little the toe brakes pivot but I just didn't have the patience to wait 2 months for an ADC to be delivered to me from Amazon. This was after all the first big project of a 22 year old who managed to sneak in some time on the Machinery at his old workplace. I'm sure that someone with a lot more experience and access to such machinery could greatly improve the design. If you ever decide to film/document your project I would love to see it!

[@stargazer6912]

@marcseclecticstuff9497, did you by chance get yours completed with the modifications you've mentioned? If so, could you post a vid and the details (if you've captured it)? Thanks a bunch!

[@marcseclecticstuff9497]

@@stargazer6912 I'm sorry to say, no I didn't. I'm extremely busy and have limited time. I figured I'd have at least a week, so in reality more like 2 weeks out in the shop making all the parts for it. I could work thru the weekend at my night job and earn enough in those 2 days to buy 4+ Thrustmaster TPR's so that's what I ended up doing. Doesn't have the satisfaction of DIY but in the end I came up money and more importantly time ahead. Gotta say, I don't regret it at all, the TPR pedals are absolutely fantastic.

[@Snugggg]

@Benjo did you build anymore tomcat inputs? side panels or anything? would love to see your skills put to work making a tomcat throttle quadrant.

[@RevFilmore]

Amazing. Did you ever send the link to Grumman? I think the greybeards there would love it.

[@KresoHrastovec]

Tnx for your sharing! How you fix pedal bearings in frame?

[@markkthemk]

Very well done! Which parts you made in metal could be replaced with plastic without seriously impacting the structural integrity?

[@Benjo0]

With a few redesigns the entire pedals could I reckon.

[@rstandi]

This is still amazing to me.. Do you think there is any chance of it working using 3d printed parts?

[@helicopterovirtual-msfs6254]

Excelente.

[@kobac5282]

Pedals are amazing !!! I would like to make my own pedals and this type is perfect. But I’d like to know what should be the price if i send materials to be cut in an industry with cnc machines?

[@Benjo0]

Those kind of companies should always give you their rates or "offers" so to say when you send them the drawings. Then you can see if it's affordable and worth doing.

[@user-ss7ll4jp6j]

Great job.!!! One question, in readMe parts you say that the sensor module is the KY-028, but this is with a temperature sensor. The correct sensor module would be the Ky-024 or am I wrong?

[@Benjo0]

You're absolutely right, not sure why I wrote it down incorrectly.

[@marryann1729]

Waa Waa Wee Waa It's A Very Nice

[@metaludique33]

Très fun et beau travail!!!...le TPR de Thrustmaster est trop cher pour ce que c'est imo. Vous me donnez l'envie de me lancer dans ce projet. The mechanical work don't afraid me but I will perhaps ask you some questions about electronical work...i'am going to learn english by the same time. I download your file and start to study. Happy new Year!!!

[@kabzebrowski]

Thanks for the video, really appreciate the project. Ehm.. so, just confirming the connections: 1. The three ky-024 sensors are running in parallel into the 5V (VCC connector). 2. Also parallel in ground (but any choice of grounding would do: a separate ground for each, all in one ground.. whichever fits the layout best) 3. Each sensor gets their own separate analog output connector (looks like you used A3/A2/A1), correct? The Digital Outputs on the sensors are not used, since a range of motion is needed instead of just off/on. By the way, that means ky-003 sensors can't be used, right? From what I read they seem to be digital outputs, so ky-024 or ky-035 would be the ones? Ky-035 looks just like ky-003, but with analog outputs. In case I get ky-024 sensors, should I mess with the potentiometer?

[@ScottDube1]

Did you happen to save the documentation from the arduino site? The link is now broken and I can't get those. Any help would be great. TY!

[@kabzebrowski]

@@ScottDube1 Unfortunately I didn't save the page. I do have the files for the pedals & joystick library though, plus an idea of how to wire things, but I don't remember if you can just throw the code into the arduino chip as it is.

[@ScottDube1]

@@kabzebrowski I think I got what I needed. Did you build them and if so how satisfied are you given the amount of work? TY

[@kabzebrowski]

@@ScottDube1 I got all the electronics a while ago, recently made wood parts for the pedals - I'm not going for the pendulum style tho. I'm also giving a thought on 3d printing some curved rack & pinion system on which to put the magnets and sensors, might try that to get more precision on the movements. I'll probably assemble all of it in the coming weeks. Tbh I'm not in a hurry because I have a stick with yaw on it, it's way more of a side project for me.

[@ScottDube1]

Awesome project well done! When I click on the link above for Arduino Hall sensor I don't seem to get anything pertinent. Is the link broken? TY!

[@Benjo0]

Seems like it is, not sure how or why.. I'll try and remember to check tomorrow

[@ScottDube1]

@@Benjo0 Thanks really looking forward to building these!

[@Benjo0]

​@@ScottDube1 Hi, just got the chance to check it out. That link used to be a guide on how Hall Sensors work with Arduino and I guess it was removed by the owner. In my 'All Files' link however, there's a file with the exact code I used. Hope that it can at least be of some help.

[@ScottDube1]

@@Benjo0 Thanks Benjo I did find that. I was wondering how you decided on doing the brake sensors like that rather than a plunger looking arrangement? Was there a technical reason or you just thought your way was more pleasing? Thanks great work!

[@metaludique33]

Hi, Just a few questions : why do you mixed the metal used? for amagnetism due to the sensors in arms, for fun or something else? What magnet can i use? i have ordered the sensors and the board. Thanks

[@Benjo0]

Arms would've been heavy if not for aluminium. Any magnet should do.

[@tomatoman3706]

How much did this cost you??

[@glennsmith8173]

Are there some parts incorrect in the parts list? I see 5 30x10mm Ball bearings in the readme, but only see 4 used in the video (2 for the center 10mm shaft and one for each rudder arm). Also, 3 22x10mm BB in the reading, but only see 1 for each rudder pedal. I see 4 6mm Ball Joint ends in the readme, which is enough for the synch mechanism for rudder movement. Each rudder pedal seems to a have a similar connection, but it is surrounded by a spring. Are these also ball joints? I don't see anything listed for that connection.

[@Benjo0]

Hi, there are two 30x10 bearings in each swing arm and only one for the center 10mm shaft.This is to make up for the width of the arms. The 3rd 22x10 is in the supporting 'Z' shaped piece on the back. (can be seen @3:30 in the video) The ball joints are only used for the sync mechanism, 2 on each arm. The springs are not using ball joints, if you pause @4:52 you can see this. It's more of a piston/cylinder with a spring around it, kinda hard to describe. You can see it better at @6:50 in the video.

[@glennsmith8173]

@@Benjo0 Wow, so great to hear from you. Wasn't expecting to since your last reply was 5 months ago. Understood on the bearings; 2 big ones on each side on the top of the swing arms, one small on each rudder pedal, and one big and one small on the center shaft. Do you have any spec reference for the piston/cylinder? I found this celebratelifeidaho.us11.list-manage.com, but it doesn't have the right ends on it. I'm planning on 3D printing most of it, initially, to at least test for fit. I don't know how to weld yet, so I'll try CNCing the swing arms using 20 mm metal. My ME buddy thinks our machines can do it. We'll see. Not sure yet how to attach the added ring for the rudder pedal shaft/bearing to the swing arm without welding, yet. Thinking the screws you have in the design may be sufficient. Metal construction is very cool, though. Maybe I'll get my welder up and running and practice someday.

[@Janko175]

Masterpice . I did rudder pedals similar to Simped F16 . I used a sensor hall 49E and Arduino micro pro . I have a issue . Works ok . but I dont have a full range of motion . I get only 75% of range . Magnets almost touches a sensor but I dont geting a 100% range I made a simulation in DCS . Any idea why ,and how to fix this . I wonder .... I want to add ADS 1115 bit to Arduino maybe it help .

[@alainaubry5615]

Hello Janko, that's what I did : adding ADS1115 DAC. Its works great for rudder, a little bit more difficult for brakes. It was difficult to have the same range right brake and left brake, due to the poor geometrical accuracy of my machining. Not a problem. Corrected by software. More than 8000 real steps available for rudder, delivered by Hall effect sensor, compared to #300 steps with Arduino standard DAC. Far away from 65000 potentials ADS1115 steps, but it's widely enough!!!

[@kobac5282]

I am planning to buy arduino pro micro and the same hall sensors, but i dont know what is that big white board which connects sensors and arduino? Is that important part? I saw some videos about other homemade pedals, and they did not have those white boards, just arduino connected to sensors.

[@Benjo0]

It's just a connecting board. I used it for convenience, alternatively you can just wire/solder everything directly. You can google 'Electronics project Board' to see what it is.

[@kobac5282]

@@Benjo0 Hey thanks for answering! I hope that this can be affordable ( i mean the price of bringing everything to be cnc cut) except that i already know how to weld and other stuff...it is too difficult to cut and make perfect holes with hand drill and grinder. So my only option is to find a place where i can bring materials and pray for the best price :D

[@Benjo0]

@@kobac5282 Ye, I was lucky enough to have worked at such a workshop at the time. I understand it would be difficult/expensive to replicate these but you can also just take design ideas from the video and revamp it to something that can be manufactured more easily.

[@aliahmed-ce1pk]

Please Can you put all demantion all parts

[@avi8err829]

How much did it cost making those?

[@Benjo0]

A $100 more or less, but I had access to the machinery at work.

[@avi8err829]

@@Benjo0 thanks!

[@jonas350xwb9]

Is it possible to 3D print it?

[@Benjo0]

In general I see no reason why not. You would perhaps need to re-design the main frame as it really wasn't intended for printing.

[@MozTS]

*welding aluminum* And im done

[@Benjo0]

No reason not to try making it out of some hardwood? It would be cheap, easy to cut and you could get the desired thickness. :)

[@Sovek86]

@@Benjo0 This is what I'm gonna do myself. I'm gonna get a jigsaw, sander and some 3/4 plywood, and then layer them together to get 1-1/2 to 2-1/4 inch pieces for the T and L brackets. The only issue I see is trying to make the centering mechanism. I'm probably gonna grab some circular neodyniom magnets and then epoxy them into place after I use a forstner bit cut out its resting spot. While I like the look of the F-14/F16 pedals, I may build 737 style pedals instead.

[@COWA300]

Komentar

[@alainaubry5615]

Hello Benjo, my own pendular rudder pedals inspired by yours is now OK. I tried to send pictures to you, but i got no answer using your e-mail ... Is your gmail (by**es) still valid?

[@Benjo0]

Hi Alain, I did receive the email that you sent just before new year. I responded to it within a few days, I'll try replying again in case you didn't receive it. The picture that you sent in the email looked phenomenal and I would love to see more angles of your finished pedals!

[@weebitteeateeweebit]

Dude, sell them

[@jajamuc]

Nice copy of the Thrustmaster TPR pedals. I appreciate your craftsmanship, but you should have mentioned that you copied the design 1:1 from Thrustmaster.

[@zodvillan5100]

Nice job of stealing thrustmasters design! This is not your design !

[@Benjo0]

No shit?

[@thedumbaviator5536]

Wow you are so smart! It is not like DIY is written in the motherfucking title.