DIY Power Feed for Milling Machine. Part 2

[@TommyB196]

Thanks Myfirdboy I was sitting with a load of bits motors, drivers wires all over the place trying to figure out to hook this lot up and BOOM Your video popped up What a life saver Thank you bro thank you just what i needed.

[@myfordboy]

I have a wiring diagram if you would like it.

[@TommyB196]

@@myfordboy That would be great my friend Got the relays this morning

[@myfordboy]

@@TommyB196 Actually just realised I put the link to the wiring in the video description.

[@TommyB196]

@@myfordboy That would be fantastic buddy

[@myfordboy]

@@TommyB196 myfordboy.blogspot.com/p/stepper-motor.html

[@Jestey6]

Hi myfordboy Firstly many thanks for the videos, I would not have contemplated this project without your guidance. However I would appreciate your comments. All wired up but the motor only turned in a clockwise direction. I saw that a couple of months ago 'Petrolhead' suggested that the diagram is incorrect. He asked whether there should be a negative feed, to the bottom right hand connector on the switch. You countered this by explaining that "the board reverse switch is a single pole one, it makes for one direction and breaks for the other", but omitted to answer the question Petrolhead raised. On the Part 2 video, at 11:49 and again at 11:52, there is a clearly visible, wire link, joining the top and bottom right switch connectors. Which is in effect what Petrolhead was suggesting. I gave it some thought and decided that without the link the relay could not operate, and therefore the motor would not run. I linked the relay connections and, with relief, the motor ran in both directions. So with respect, Petrolhead was right, the circuit diagram was incorrect, i.e. it is missing an important connection. Cheers Noel

[@dfganzinga8209]

Indeed..! Thanks Noel, when wired as per blog-diagram the motor will only run in one direction, also the DIR led does not light up. When I reinstalled the original switches it worked OK, so it must be a faulty diagram. Now wiring the whole thing again with missing lead, will post result here. Update: works fine with the extra wire, no led though, that would require another modification.

[@noelthomas6138]

Df Ganzinga Hi. The last thing I wanted to do was link the relay pins and destroy the electronics, but logic prevailed and the motor went in both directions. In addition myfordboy’s switch settings are questionable. He suggests 5, 6, 7, 8 are set at on, off, on, off. This sets the Microstep to 32 and the steps/rev to 6400. I found that using these resulted in the motor only starting at the minimum speed setting. If starting was attempted at a higher setting, the motor would just buzz i.e. not rotate. A better choice would be microstep 4, steps/rev 800. Or 8, steps/rev 1600. This would need the need SW5, 6, 7, 8 to be On, Off, On, On. Or Off, Off, On, On. If you understand how a stepper motor works this will all make sense. If, you don’t, do what I did and have a look at a video on KZbin, it’s quite straight forward. DroneBot Workshop - Stepper Motors with Arduino - Controlling Bipolar & Unipolar stepper motors is excellent. Good luck Noel

[@houseofbrokendobbsthings5537]

Excellent work. I just finished your rotary indexer and this was next on my list. Glad you upped the stepper that helps me know it is enough. The indexer was a bit touchy with the Nema17. Not the project elements just so the manufacturing variability in the phase ii spindexer gave it a tad of drag that the stepper was not fond of. I will be adding this to both of my Rockwell mills. You provided a great alternative to the power feeds available. Thank you very much. _Dan_

[@wawoodman]

Excellent! I have a Rockwell vertical, and power feeds are rarer than hen’s teeth. Looks like a great project for the winter!

[@steamsearcher]

Just catching up with this. Love your Milling machine. We currently have 3 Raglan Lathes. One being a free rescue just before it went into a skip. We had no room but you cant let that happen. Also a MK 1 Super seven with gearbox... Rusty beyond rusty but revive able.

[@lensman5762]

Great job. I have had all the necessary stuff to do my small ML 10 lathe power feed for the last 5 years and still haven't got around to doing anything about it. I turned my old Clarke milling machine to CNC though. Great fun.

[@Watchyn_Yarwood]

Very good! You are very inventive and skilled.

[@MilanDupal]

Great construction! The only are missing are end-stop switches, easy to implement.

[@dfganzinga8209]

Myfordboy, please correct the wiring-diagram on your blog, so we the ignorant don't have to struggle for days to get this very useful project going. Thanks for all the work you are showing, keep on doing it. Best regards from the Netherlands, Dirk

[@Jestey6]

Hi. Df The last thing I wanted to do was link the relay pins and destroy the electronics, but logic prevailed and the motor went in both directions. In addition myfordboy’s switch settings are questionable. He suggests 5, 6, 7, 8 are set at on, off, on, off. This sets the Microstep to 32 and the steps/rev to 6400. I found that using these resulted in the motor only starting at the minimum speed setting. If starting was attempted at a higher setting, the motor would just buzz i.e. not rotate. A better choice would be microstep 4, steps/rev 800. Or 8, steps/rev 1600. This would need the need SW5, 6, 7, 8 to be On, Off, On, On. Or Off, Off, On, On. If you understand how a stepper motor works this will all make sense. If, you don’t, do what I did and have a look at a video on KZbin, it’s quite straight forward. DroneBot Workshop - Stepper Motors with Arduino - Controlling Bipolar & Unipolar stepper motors is excellent. Good luck Noel

[@saartal4524]

Wonderful... wish I could handle electronics as you do... Please consider a front guard so you dont bump into the machine and start something accidentally. Keep up those inspiring projects!!!

[@glennjohnson9545]

Man, that is an awesome job you did there Great work !!!

[@steveu235]

Hi nice job . Thank you especially for sharing the plans and sourcing.

[@TheStew1948]

I like this. Very simple. Just what I need! I am in the process building a driver (copying) like this right now. StewStewart Hilton Head Island, SC USA

[@wheeltapper1]

the stepper motor mounting bracket could do with beefing up a bit, there's a bit of wobble at higher speeds.

[@emgeeradian2223]

Great video using vid 1 and this total explanation given, even links to all parts required to build the assembly, another winner for myfordboy.

[@joelwatts9042]

Watched this project with great interest. Was thinking of adding power feed to home made drum sander. Variable speed and cheaper than gear head motor. Not sure if it would have enough torque but would be worth trying. Thanks for sharing

[@billgilbride7972]

Sooo smooth! Any reason you did not size down the drive tooth gear to increase the steps/rev and increase torque? Granted the motor size you're using are monsters in their own right. Thanks for sharing!

[@myfordboy]

One of the pulleys I already had so used that. A smaller one on the motor could have been better.

[@steveb936]

Nice job, 2 questions if you dont mind, 1, why a stepper motor 2, how do you disengage the pulley to use the manual handwheel Thanks

[@myfordboy]

There are advantages using a stepper. Easy speed control and instant reversing. If you should crash into something no harm will come to the motor and it will slip. Having said that it is impossible to stop the drive on my mill even if you tighten the bed lock. I fitted a pin to disconnect the drive but in practice I leave it connected all the time as you can still use the handwheel with motor engaged.

[@petergregory5286]

That was a very satisfying project. 3D printing has an added bonus. Regards.

[@flatheadronsgarage7345]

WOW just found your channel. Greetings from sunny California. Awesome job..... Going to sub and check out all your videos. Thanks for sharing. Just found machining about six months ago and I’m in love. At 59 and learning again. Lathe and Mill are going and tomorrow I’m on a road trip for a surface grinder. I’m going to learn a lot from you sir. Thank You. Your newest sub ... started my channel also in hopes of learning to machine. Flathead Ron’s Garage

[@shawnmrfixitlee6478]

very neat and clean install , One of the best I have seen ! ENJOYED ..

[@drpipe]

My guess was you pull the pin out and that disengages the steeper from the lead screw ? Really liked it am thinking of doing that on a mini mill , I think I could get away with a lot smaller steeper motor. Is there a rule of thumb when it comes to spec on this ? Or as usual if in doubt go much bigger ! Thanks again.

[@myfordboy]

That was the idea but in practice there is no need to remove the pin as the handwheel can still be easily turned. A smaller motor may well suit your application although if there is room bigger is better.

[@drpipe]

Ahh that’s good to know.. I heard somewhere that these stepper motors they have a nm number which also is the locking force as week as power exerted.. but I guess that’s obviously Only when there is a supply to them ! Silly me turned off as you say they should spin freely. Thanks again all the best.

[@tnekkc]

I had a small mill a Rockwell 21-100 from 2002 to 2014 when I got a Bridgeport Series II. The only real improvement with the giant mill is the auto feed and the DRO. I could have added those features, as this video shows.

[@stormtaker63]

You always amaze me. Fantastic job and great idea!

[@muskokamike127]

I have to ask: no limit switches? You did a great job but I'm surprised you didn't use a breakout board so you could hook it up to your computer and use it as a CNC mill..... Once you power feed the Y and the Z, you can start doing circles and shapes and 3d items in metal.....or at least machining them after you cast the rough shape...... Just one suggestion: you might want to put a belt guard over the pullies etc. Won't take long if you get some shards/chips in between the belt and the pulley to chew through the belt......doesn't have to be much, use your little cnc to cut some parts out of styrene, acrylic, or pvc (or hdpe for that matter).

[@duediligence791]

Some things a manual just does better and we keep a fill power fed manual here. It’s great for one off items we don’t want to spend 2-3 hours drawing that can be made in that time.

[@thrustprop67]

can the table still be hand cranked on the x axis with the drive belt on the power feed motor

[@myfordboy]

Yes it can. I fitted a pin to disconnect the pulley from the leadscrew but found it was not needed.

[@roleic7246]

Nice video, thanks. How is the mechanical resistance with the belted but switched off stepper for hand operation on the hand wheel? Do you take off the tooth belt for hand operation?

[@myfordboy]

I can remove the drive pin that connects the handle to the top pulley to disconnect the drive completely but it is still possible to operate the bed with it connected.

[@charles1379]

well done, should add a rapid traverse button to override the speed knob.

[@elidari60]

Hi I love your video which I just watched do you by any chance have the wiring diagram it’s a little bit confusing please help thank you

[@myfordboy]

There are links in the video description to parts used and wiring details.

[@human2761]

Hello, nice project. . I'm building something very similar , inspired by your setup. Was just wondering, the 24vdc relay can be taken out and the on/off controlled by the second pole of the direction switch directly.

[@myfordboy]

The direction control on the frequency board was seperate from the other controls so I used a relay to isolate it. If you had a 4 pole switch you could do away with the relay. My wiring myfordboy.blogspot.com/p/stepper-motor.html

[@k5at]

Great Job, David, Thanks for sharing!

[@75Bird455]

That is a fine job! Could limit switches be utilized for an autostop feature?

[@leeackerson2579]

Did you have to sacrifice a bit of travel on the table by putting the motor inboard? I'm doing a similar project but using a D.C. motor and placing the assembly above the table to get full table travel.

[@myfordboy]

I did not loose any travel. This is why the motor is mounted the way it is.

[@johnkinnane547]

What a great fix, thinking of one on mine thanks John

[@advancednutritioninc908]

Great design and fabrication!! elegant and functional!! :)

[@thrustprop67]

Hello Myford Boy . During your preteen years did you tend to make your own toys sometimes .

[@johnmorack7619]

did you lose any X axis travel due to the servo motor beng tucked under the table?

[@myfordboy]

I still have full travel.

[@redneckmachineshop1754]

Very nice system-- Did you mention where the pulley (gears) and the belt came from? Assume they are a standard item somewhere. thanks

[@myfordboy]

I made the gears some time ago.

[@myfordboy]

The gears you mention are much smaller than mine.. The belt is 0.2" pitch.170XL037

[@magicman9486]

Going to have to build that for my mill. Though will need to turn stepper around as i don't have the clearance.

[@otto-Z]

You definitely need another stepper on Y, the knee, then some ballscrews, cnc controller........

[@muskokamike127]

haha, I was JUST about to type "part III power feed for the Y axis" hahaha....

[@RinksRides]

myfordboy inspired me to convert my tired '63 Cincinnati 1B 43" 2.5HP 3PH mill to Linux CNC. My drive pulleys are 3D printed from PETG for the moment. First project will be CNC'd aluminum drive pulleys

[@muskokamike127]

He got me into or helped me immensely with sand casting. Unfortunately I don't have ready access to casting supplies like he does. If your petg pulleys work fine, why replace them? I live by the saying "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" hahah. Personally I can't wait until we can 3d print metal items at home, for a reasonable cost. I don't think it will be available in my lifetime, but at some point it will be. Some of the advances made in the last 2 years are incredible. (but they still all require sintering after printing at this point).

[@magicman9486]

you probably have a video showing how to make the timing belt gear? Lots of things i need to build in my shop.

[@myfordboy]

This is a similar one kzbin.info/www/bejne/a3i2eYt5a8uqp5Y

[@andregranum7896]

Very nice video. What type of boring bar is the little golden one you used on the lathe for this project? It's a sizd and shape I would like to get. Thanks, André

[@myfordboy]

An engineer friend gave me some of these. They are used on CNC machines. When they get dull they are replaced but just need a few strokes with a diamond lap and they cut great. I can't help with a supplier.

[@mickcarson8504]

Nice and slow. Is the stepper motor geared? Has this got slow/fast controller? Also, how come your chucks are so still when turning and my chuck from Sieg mill wobbles?

[@myfordboy]

No gears but the stepper driver has variable speed control. See part 1. I assume you mean why are my chucks running true?

[@mickcarson8504]

@@myfordboy Yes, about the chucks. I noticed that the outer shell/ring, the one that you use a chuck key to tighten the chuck (I noted yours is a keyless chuck), that shell/ring (whatever it is called) on your chuck doesn't seem to wobble sideways. My brand new Sieg Sx2LF mini milling machine chuck shell/ring does wobble slightly off center. If I could send you a minute long video clip showing how this ring dances around which at certain speed the machine has a noticeable vibration, I would.

[@myfordboy]

Looks like your chuck may not be running true on the outside as long as the tool runs true though it would not matter. I can see it's annoying.

[@mickcarson8504]

@@myfordboy I need to check this out by asking other hopefuls who have drilling tool with keyed chucks to see if theirs also wobble. The Sieg mini milling machine was bought from Ausee about two weeks ago on eBay. I've sent them a dozen emails and the same video clip, asking same questions I've asked you. Not once they responded, not once they gave me any support or an answer, or replacement of the chuck under warranty. I even complained to eBay and they said theyd investigate, yeah, yada yada yada, talk is always cheaper than actions. I wouldn't do business with this company again. And whoever does, be wary or you'll end up like me. Ausee can't be trusted.

[@matteyles7466]

Grate video, could I ask the purpose of the relay?

[@myfordboy]

A relay was necessary because to start the motor the switch wires are opened not closed as expected. More here myfordboy.blogspot.com/p/stepper-motor.html

[@nowayjerk8064]

love those step bits ,thanks for sharing

[@andrewcollins6525]

Great work. I love this

[@Δημήτρης-η4ρ]

You should use the Fast travel pins to make a fast travel switch, saves alot of time.

[@jonathantharp6689]

Hi, I enjoy your videos very much. Can you tell me what make your machine vice is and where you got it if possible. I have recently bought a raglan and am looking for a good vice that is small enough for this machine. Thank you .

[@myfordboy]

It's a Vetex 100mm milling vice. I bought mine a long time ago. This seems to be the new version. You can probably search for other suppliers. www.rdgtools.co.uk/cgi-bin/sh000001.pl?WD=vice%20vertex&PN=Vertex-VBV-4-Milling-Vice-9820834%2ehtml#SID=346 This one looks more like mine under a different name. www.warco.co.uk/machine-vices-vice-jaws/119-vertex-precision-milling-vice.html These and mine came with a swivel base but I have never used it as it reduces the available height too much

[@jonathantharp6689]

@@myfordboy Thank you. :-)

[@rok1475]

After using it for a while do you notice chips find their way onto the timing belt? In other words, is the belt cover needed?

[@myfordboy]

I have never seen any swarf collect in the belt or pulleys.

[@rok1475]

myfordboy Thanks :-)

[@mrmyford]

another nice video, thanks for sharing regards...Keith in Swindon

[@gth042]

What type of flooring is that underneath the mill, and does it clean up easily (12:00)? Thank you for sharing your videos, I enjoy them quite a bit!

[@myfordboy]

It's an old carpet. Does not clean well.

[@bobroszkowski]

Nice work! Was the relay used to power off the board if the switch is in the middle position?

[@myfordboy]

It does not power off the board but is wired to replace the on board momentary push switch to start the stepper . The 3 position toggle switch selects the direction and operates the realy when either direction is selected.

[@Labor_Syndicalist]

Has anyone noticed that the PWM over heats and gets fried when left in the off position for too long? Also following the wire diagram the toggle switch is forward off, and middle/ back spins.

[@dalejones4186]

Are you going to put limit switches on it also? Great video series

[@samueltaylor4989]

Only thing I see as an improvement is a guard over the belt and pulleys so chips won’t get pulled in. Nice though!

[@bonnevillegarage]

Trying to find the information on the relay that you used: 10:09 small 24 volt DC relay? what the amperage?

[@myfordboy]

Anything will do. The switching current is virtually nothing.

[@MaturePatriot]

11:25 No such thing as "scrap" in a fab shop, every piece of metal has a potential use. LOL - Would there be a way to add a momentary high speed push button switch, so you could keep a perfect speed setup, bur rapidly advance the table. I need to learn stepper motors and Arduinos. Great build.

[@nickclarke587]

Excellent work as usual. Do you have a wiring diagram for the relsy/switch? and where did you source the relay?

[@myfordboy]

Hi Nick. I already had the relay. It's 24v coil single pole change over. Came from RS but other relays are available. The odd thing is, and why it was needed, is that to start the pulse generator you have to break a pair of wires not make as you would expect. I'll sketch out the wiring and send it.

[@geoffhalstead1811]

myfordboy Would appreciate a copy as well please, plus how you did the wiring of the replacement direction switches in place of the push buttons on the controller. I have two machines to do. Have only recently got my head around steppers and their controllers.

[@myfordboy]

Give me a few days and I'll put the wiring diagram up at myfordboy.blogspot.com.

[@myfordboy]

The wiring diagram has been uploaded here myfordboy.blogspot.co.uk/p/stepper-motor.html

[@myfordboy]

The wiring diagram has been uploaded here myfordboy.blogspot.co.uk/p/stepper-motor.html

[@CompEdgeX2013]

Nice job. i'm surprised you didn't add a momentary switch for a rapid/jog.. ? :-)

[@BRO-RU]

Very smart and simple installation.

[@TheWrate]

I know this was posted ages ago but I'm wondering how the setup has fared. Are you able to hand crank the table if necessary?

[@myfordboy]

It works really well. i put a removable pin to lock the handwheel to the pulley so the drive can be disconnected but in practice it is not needed. With the motor off the handwheel can still be turned.

[@TheWrate]

@@myfordboy Thanks so much for the response. I'm trying to decide between a stepper motor or a geared DC motor. Is the stepper motor noisy?

[@myfordboy]

@@TheWrate stepper is very quiet much quieter than a brushed motor. Also no clutch needed with a stepper.

[@TheWrate]

@@myfordboy Thanks!

[@HomeDistiller]

i agree with end stops being a good idea, but im sure the steeper will just stall out if it crashes. im more worried about that PCB hanging from the pot! no other mounting points were added? everyone who is commenting on using it for CNC obviously has no idea about the amount of backlash this setup would have, good for a single direction but no good with direction changes while cutting

[@noelthomas6138]

Hi. The last thing I wanted to do was link the relay pins and destroy the electronics, but logic prevailed and the motor went in both directions. In addition myfordboy’s switch settings are questionable. He suggests 5, 6, 7, 8 are set at on, off, on, off. This sets the Microstep to 32 and the steps/rev to 6400. I found that using these resulted in the motor only starting at the minimum speed setting. If starting was attempted at a higher setting, the motor would just buzz i.e. not rotate. A better choice would be microstep 4, steps/rev 800. Or 8, steps/rev 1600. This would need the need SW5, 6, 7, 8 to be On, Off, On, On. Or Off, Off, On, On. If you understand how a stepper motor works this will all make sense. If, you don’t, do what I did and have a look at a video on KZbin, it’s quite straight forward. DroneBot Workshop - Stepper Motors with Arduino - Controlling Bipolar & Unipolar stepper motors is excellent. Good luck Noel

[@Jestey6]

Apologies, This should have been posted as a reply to Df Ganzinga post, form me. Instead it has appeared here, and as I have no access to this account I can't delete it.

[@KW-ei3pi]

How did you "remove" the onboard switches? I just got the controller and it looks impossible to unsolder them from the board. Please help. Thank you

[@myfordboy]

I don't remember there being any problem. Just heat up the soldered connections whist pulling on the switch.

[@KW-ei3pi]

Thank you for your reply. I'm not too good at such things, but I will give it a shot. Thanks

[@niksechtniks]

Hello sir, what power suppley did you use it's sadly not availeble on ebay so i dont know the voltage

[@myfordboy]

It's 24 volts . 5 or 10 amps would work.

[@rontimothy7288]

I have a similar project using a nema17, ts6600 driver ,and the sample pwm generator except that I can't get it to work. Can anyone help?

[@Strider396]

Would it be possible to offer a wiring diagram of the components for us electrically challenged folks ;-) Thanks for another fabulous project!

[@myfordboy]

Rob Grey The wiring details will be uploaded to myfordboy.blogspot.com in a couple of days time.

[@myfordboy]

Wiring diagram is now uploaded here myfordboy.blogspot.co.uk/p/stepper-motor.html

[@FretsNirvana]

Nice ...can you still do manual feed wih this setup as well?

[@myfordboy]

I have a removable pin to disconnect the motor drive but in practice I find it's not needed as the handwheel can still be turned if the motor is off.

[@FretsNirvana]

@@myfordboy Thanks ....and it turns as easily as if the motor drive is disconnected?

[@myfordboy]

Yes although if you turn the handwheel fast the stepper acts like a generator and gives a brake effect. This could be overcome by switching 2 of the stepper leads when the direction switch is in the off position.

[@FretsNirvana]

@@myfordboy Thank you again ...it seems to me that would not be needed. If you are going to turn the wheel fast ...might as well you the stepper motor to do that.

[@adaml52]

Good implementation for the mechanical side. I would have used an Arduino for the pulse generation Better still use a brushed DC motor with combined gearbox and pwm controller for speed control to simplify and less money out lay.

[@user-ks5ff]

Got a link to the motor you're describing?

[@adaml52]

+user12345 l have the make and model from my own build Search MFA \ como drills , model 975D motor and combined epicyclic gearbox It's powering my X-Axis on a Amat25LV mill. The US equivalent PM25 and G0704 milling machine type. The PWM controller is from ebay, to suit the motor you intend to use.

[@Whitbypoppers]

I notice you have powered only one axis (X, I think?). Is this the axis that generates the most movement?

[@myfordboy]

it's the one that's used most and has the longest travel.

[@prasads4743]

Stepper motor you used is nema 34 or nema 23 kindly give information about that

[@myfordboy]

Nema 23, all the parts used are listed in the description below the video.

[@prasads4743]

@@myfordboy thank u Sir I am planning to modify my manual surface grinding , can I go by nema 23 , bed size is 400 mm × 150 mm , thanks again ,great job

[@myfordboy]

@@prasads4743 My table is 140 x 530 so the motor I used would be suitable. The nema number is just the size of the square section of the motor they are available with different power for the same Nema number.

[@alanbenson2936]

Hi can you give us the specs on the power supply as the one listed is no longer available. Many thanks.

[@myfordboy]

24v output, 5 or 10amps will be fine.

[@silvioluizdalpoggetto]

Excellent work.

[@Dzonemp]

That worked out great.

[@XXCoder]

Ehh the controls placement looks unsafe. Maybe add button for stopping stepper movements on front or something?

[@daniloagostini4156]

Brilliant!

[@johnsrestomodgarage6299]

Can you still use the hand wheels for manual control?

[@myfordboy]

Yes. I added a removable pin that disconnects the gear from the handwheel although I have not found it necessary to this as with no power to the motor the handwheel can still be easily turned.

[@wxfield]

I imagine it won't be long before you convert the mill to performing cartesian CNC tasks ! Cheers!

[@glenroth2696]

Stepper motor and driver link does not work

[@myfordboy]

They have changed the links, i'll sort it tommorow.

[@Hedgehog_in_the_Fog]

two "end switch" for emergency stop?

[@Petrolhead66]

Can you still turn the handle by hand or is there a clutch?

[@myfordboy]

Yes. I added a removable pin that disconnects the gear from the handwheel although I have not found it necessary to this as with no power to the motor the handwheel can still be easily turned.

[@Petrolhead66]

@@myfordboy Brill, thanks

[@Petrolhead66]

@@myfordboy Could you have used something like this to control the speed www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Stepper-motor-driver-controller-Speed-Regulator-Pulse-Signal-Generator-Module-UK/192162843912?epid=850102886&hash=item2cbdcc4d08:g:nTMAAOSwRUhY90Q0

[@myfordboy]

That will produce the pulses but you still need a stepper driver.

[@davidcuster4618]

What did you use for pulleys?

[@myfordboy]

I made the pulleys.

[@ياربيارب-ص1ظ]

Very nice

[@lensman5762]

May I ask why u used a relay for?

[@myfordboy]

The driver board has a push on, push off button for direction control. I needed to have it controlled with a 3 position switch that would select the direction and turn on the feed.

[@lensman5762]

@@myfordboy Thanks for the reply. I gathered as much after watching the video twice. You have done a good job. I prefer these conversions to full CNC . I converted my Taig micro mill to CNC and since stopped using it in favour of a semi automated Sieg X1. Have a great day.

[@chiuchan784]

Bộ máy này giã bao nhiêu vậy anh

[@wendystwo-for-five]

Try chocolate casting by pouring chocolate syrup into a mold and putting it into the fridge or freezer

[@maxhammontree3169]

Love it!

good job

[@Petrolhead66]

where did you get the relay

[@myfordboy]

I already had a suitable one but they are easily available from eBay.

[@EASTcH]

Great job thx bro.

[@wayneuk]

anychance you can make me some solid bed mounts for the cr 10 ?

[@myfordboy]

wayneuk can you describe what you mean.

[@wayneuk]

myfordboy to replace the springs some alloy spacers aproxx 18mm tall size of cr10 bed ajusters aproxx 10 mm dia with threaded inserts for the bed screws bit like this www.th3dstudio.com/product/cr-10solidmounts/

[@myfordboy]

I think a better design would be a larger bar tapped each end to take the screws and not bother with the printed part.

[@wayneuk]

myfordboy my thoughts were do away with the printed part can you make me a set?

[@myfordboy]

Yes I can do that. Can you email me ( the name of this youtube channel) @yahoo.co.uk

[@pirateman1966]

Hope to see you graduate to a full CNC conversion, using an Arduino Mega2560 running Marlin firmware. Hook it all up to 4 Steppers + Drivers and get a 4 axis XYZ with a turntable that can run g-code.

[@aubreyaub]

'n a boat, for a trip out to the reef. Engel fridge to keep the beer cold, 'n a star to steer her by.

[@andregranum7896]

Thanks, I'll check with "CNCpoorboy" on eBay, he has lots of nice tooling. Love the power feed, am gathering parts for a different type for my small mill right now.

[@rizalardiansyah4486]

Now make it a 3 axis cnc milling machine

[@bill53uk]

bit of a dodgey motor bracket.------ metal too thin

[@fly3209]

1:1 ratio...it would have been better if it was 2:1 (stepper/handwheel)