DIY rotary film processor

[@nenemydog]

I rinse my film with reverse osmosis water. It's nearly the same as distilled water. I get it from filtering my tap water. It was a lucky coincidence because I got it to make my own water for the espresso machine. I have a somewhat different approach. My way is to keep the film on the roll in the canister until the end of the developing and washing. Then I just soak the Film in my reverse osmosis water and pour it back once the film has been soaked. That way I can keep reusing the water. It works a few times but eventually started getting deposit on my film. So I use a tds meter to check how clean my water is. If necessary I will use fresh RO water. Anyway I love your approach to developing. You put a lot of effort into everything.

[@andrewweis3028]

Hi Gabriel, thoroughly enjoyed this video. Thanks for taking the time to show how you put the processor together as well as how you go through your C-41 process. Have you put together a step by step guide to 1) make the processor (yes, I saw all the parts and costs, but a step by step would be great) 2) how your steps of testing for pH and anything else you normally go through to get the final result would be deeply appreciated. Thanks for the consideration. Andrew

[@gabrielsilvaz4199]

glad you enjoyed it! So here in the next couple days, I will try to upload a video on my new updates to this processor and I will try to go into depth on how I went about putting this processor together. Also, I will try to make it all fit in one video on my step-by-step procedures on how I go about processing film. If I have to, I will split it up into parts. Thanks again for watching!

[@evanreece9733]

Hi Gabriel, this is a brilliant idea. I am gathering the components that you described but I was just wondering what amperage of the power supply you are using? I have a collection of old 12V DC supplies from old phones-light boxes etc that run fro 1.25A to 5A but was just wondering what you are running. regards Evan

[@khanscombe619]

I’m gathering my parts for my project. I’m going for compact single roll at a time 120, 135. & 2~6 sheets 2x3 & 4x5. Using Jobo 1510 & 2509n tanks & extension for 8x10 paper. I’d like to use a pulley drive utilizing the existing magnet base. What is a good used recycle sores for a quiet little DC servo motor?

[@abdulrahmanzidan9253]

Great work bud! But how or what did you use to put the electric parts together?

[@flavioserci6046]

No problems with the Paterson tank? I had problems because the center shaft is not blocked and it rolled together the tank and the spiral didn't rotate so the film wasn't developed. Jobo tanks and AP tanks are better. And.. You should make a dryer tent for the film with a fan. Shorter dry time is much better than a longer time.

[@gabrielsilvaz4199]

No I have had no issue with the Paterson Tank it seems to go together pretty tight so on my film, always develops without a problem. I have several different developing tanks as well. I don’t use the Paterson as much anymore, but not because of any issues.

[@khanscombe619]

On a separate project, what’s a good sous vide capable of 20°c for my B&W on the side? Im open to older used

[@wchristian2000]

This is so cool!

[@darrenbivings4227]

When I used plastic film dev hangers, after I cut the leaders off, I would make small 45 degree cuts in the end corners of the film to keep the film from catching and buckling inside of the plastic hangers while sliding the film on. It just made the process that much smother and easier to getting the film to slide into the dev hanger. I use metal hangers and tanks and I noticed that it also helps to get the film on those even though it doesn't sliding on. I can feel the film inside the metal hanger readjusting much faster if the film is buckling up with I reverse the wind on to the metal hanger. I have to keep my thumb and middle finger near the center of the metal hanger the entire time while winding.