DIY Sanding & Restoring Rusty Interior | EP 16 RUSTORATIONS: 1972 Chevy Nova

[@Gibbswelding]

## Removing Rusty Bolts Through all the years of removing rusty bolts, i seldomly have one that wipes my butt. But if you follow my steps, you will beat it's, butt there are miner options, but these work best. ### Heating Method 1. **Heat the Bolt**: Use a torch to heat the bolt until it is red hot. Repeat this process three times to allow the bolt to expand and contract, which helps break the rust down. 2. **Cool Naturally**: Let the bolt cool down on its own. Avoid quenching it with water, as this can harden the bolt. 3. **Adjust for Stripped Bolts**: If the bolt is stripped, use a slightly smaller socket and hammer it onto the bolt while it is still hot. This can help grip the bolt better. ### Welding Method 1. **Weld the Bolt**: If heating alone doesn't work, use a welder to apply heat. Weld the center of the bolt, ensuring the weld is full to transfer heat to the threads. 2. **Drill and Weld**: Drill a small hole in the bolt before welding. This can help transfer heat more effectively, but be cautious as it weakens the bolt. 3. **Surface Welding**: Sometimes, you may need to weld the surface multiple times to increase the heat transfer to the threads. ### Additional Tips - **Loctite Removal**: If the bolt has thread-locking compound (Loctite), heat it to over 400°F to break the compound's bond. - **Use MAPP Gas**: For more heat, consider using MAPP gas instead of propane, as it burns hotter. - **Hammer the Bolt**: After welding, use a hammer to tap the top of the bolt. This helps further loosen the rust. - **Work the Bolt**: Use a wrench to work the bolt back and forth gently, which can help loosen rust. - **Air Wrench**: An air wrench can provide vibration to help loosen the bolt, but use it cautiously as it can be too powerful. ### Last Resort - **Drill Out the Bolt**: If all else fails, you may need to drill out the bolt. This is rarely necessary if the above methods are applied correctly. By following these steps, you should be able to remove rusty bolts effectively. Good luck. If that doesn't work, let me know how the problem progress.

[@SubdivisionAuto]

@@Gibbswelding this is some awesome advice Caleb 😎 I'm pinning this comment to hopefully help others. Thanks for taking the time to do this. I did remove the bolt (not a way I planned) but will keep all this in mind for the next one.

[@vicferrari9380]

D[nt

[@chuckirwin7334]

I had to chuckle because this time last year I was doing the same thing, keep hammering it out and one day before you know it it will be done. Cheers

[@SubdivisionAuto]

@@chuckirwin7334 hah way it goes eh. I am looking forward to getting ahead with it. Still a long way to go but I honestly am starting to see a light at the end of the tunnel. Thanks as always chuck ! Nice to see ya man

[@chuckirwin7334]

Your rust encapsulater, I did same thing with a Napa product from bulcamp line and it did the same thing to me, so I just bit the bullet and bought PPG epoxy primer and shot the bare metal, I know it's a pain but when it's on its rock solid, and a nother bit of advice I noticed that the primer on new panels I installed had flash rust underneath so check yours to be sure it's clean fyi

[@SubdivisionAuto]

@@chuckirwin7334 good call. Yeah I think I mentioned in the Video of people are doing this just prime it. Pain it touch up later but it always rusts no matter what you use unless it's epoxy. Epoxy is the way to go for sure

[@KrishnaDraws]

I appreciate the transparency on the Osfo. Great progress on the interior. You're making it happen!

[@SubdivisionAuto]

I don't want to mislead people. It does a good job but not perfect. Then again I am waiting a long time between Sandi g and painting

[@vicferrari9380]

I've been working on a very rusty truck. Note that it has been years since I've used Ospho so no expert here. I have been applying it with a brush and using a stainless steel tooth brush to scrub off the rust.A observation or two with the Ospho. If you put it on heavy and go against the instructions and let it dry on the metal it will leave a heavier layer. It almost looks like a clear coat. I believe it lasts longer before rusting.You will have to go back before painting and rewet it with Ospho again and rewipe it to the proper coating. Second observation after your first coat of Ospho fully dries overnight get in close and really look at it. You may find that it has what I call sugered. It will have little tiny black crystals growing on the remaining rust spots. I assume it's the phosphoric acid reacting to the rust as it's supposed to. Grab up your knotted edge wire wheel and go after deeply removing the crystal fuzz. A great job can happen at removing more rust. You will then have to retreat it like normal.

[@SubdivisionAuto]

@@vicferrari9380 good observations I have seen everything you mention for sure. Yes it does act like a clear coat I find too if you go too heavy but man is it hard to remove. So most times I didn't I just scuffed it up and painted over it. But it's a great product indeed.

[@nathanmacready872]

Hey mate love the videos. All the way from Australia. Keeps me motivated on my 1971 Holden HG Kingswood station wagon.. You have plenty of drive. And it makes me more keen to get stuck into my project👍

[@SubdivisionAuto]

@@nathanmacready872 thanks man. That's a cool car you have hope you dive into it. Glad the videos are motivating 😎

[@kodiak2005]

Man, impressed with your drive... Future, if your welding a nut, fill the nut, not around the outside. That way the heat, helps to loosen the bolt. Plus, you can get your socket or wrench on the nut. Keep on, keeping on.

[@SubdivisionAuto]

Thanks Kodiak for the tips I did not know that. Will keep it in mind for next time (yes I solved this in the next video you will see but not the way people expect). Will keep on keeping on filming everyday much more to come. Thanks for the support

[@scario64]

As always another awesome video...and yes that 5 minute job always seems to take 2 hrs....lol

[@SubdivisionAuto]

@@scario64 oh yeah. I spent two full days trying to remove seat belt bolts

[@RestoHubAU]

Great video. I can only imagine what you went through with those stuck bolts. Looking forward to seeing future updates.

[@SubdivisionAuto]

Hah no joke there are probably two full days of struggling with those. Course nobody wants to watch 16 hours of bolt removal but they're all off. You will see how it gets removed the next episode (yes the saga continues ). Thanks for commenting and joining the party

[@tommclaughlin5617]

I have used pickleX 20 in the past with great results. My car was stripped and left in the garage for 20 years. There was surface rust but it wiped off with Eastwoods Fastetch. I would recommend both products.

[@SubdivisionAuto]

Interesting had not heard of any of those products will look into it thank you

[@benspiteri3807]

If you weld a flat washer to the bolt and then weld a nut to it try to remove it when it is still hot it should come out good luck

[@SubdivisionAuto]

@@benspiteri3807 cool tip? Thanks man

[@Mr1technician]

Looks great

[@SubdivisionAuto]

@@Mr1technician thanjs it's coming along

[@jughtful]

weld in the center of the nut. put a good bead on before the nut. you could of went a bigger nut. don't hit your breaker bar. keep your breaker bar 90% if its slipping of stop refix it. heat it up might help as well

[@SubdivisionAuto]

Awesome man will keep it in mind thanks!

[@adamscustomshop]

I don't like messing with chemicals under my paint. Sometimes you're good, sometimes not so good. Usually the not so good ends up wasting a lot of time and money. I would just work an area big enough that you can strip in a day, clean it with wax and grease remover, then sprayway glass cleaner, then spray some epoxy primer and call it a day. I use the House of Kolor primer/sealer because it is an epoxy acrylic so it is a DTM (direct to metal) for corrosion resistance and it sands almost as easy as a urethane primer, but any DTM 2k epoxy or epoxy hybrid will work. Especially for just interior panels. Exterior I would find a brand or system you like and stick with that one brand or system from primer to sealer to color to clear. And don't worry about ruining the primer later working because if you are going to coat over the primer later with color and clear or a sound deadener or something else you will have to clean it and scuff it up anyway before you top coat it. And if you're not top coating it then leave the primer as is and do any touch ups you need and it will be fine, especially considering the factory left most of it bare metal anyway. The 2k rattle can you have is perfect too as long as it is a 2k epoxy product, but they are just a little bit more expensive than buying in quarts or gallons and mixing what you need, and you have to use up the whole can in a certain time after you activate it. Also, mixing and spraying the primer yourself with be great practice for dialing in your equipment and technique for if you are going to try and tackle any other painting in the future. Messing up primer is easy to fix since you usually have to sand and re-coat multiple times anyway. Messing up and running color and clear is fixable too but sucks to have to do so if you can practice with the primer you will be better at spraying the color and clear so less runs and mistakes. Either way, even if you don't take anyone's advice on here (mine included) it is still going to turn out great and you are doing an awesome job so don't sweat it. Love the videos and keep up the great work!

[@SubdivisionAuto]

@@adamscustomshop Adam those are some great points I appreciate all that advice from a pro. Yeah I agree with you about chemicals under paint so on the exterior I won't be doing that (hopefully) only on the bottom of the car because the rust is pretty thick I'm areas. But outside body panels I don't want to risk ospho. If something peels under the car in some years it's not the end of the world but I really don't want to touch the outside. The interior should be okay just because minimal moisture. Yeah the rattles have worked great this far for what I've done but from here on end I need larger quantities so I won't use the cans anymore. Just used them for the smaller projects and it worked great. I'm still not sure what product to use under the car I've heard people use raptorliner things like that but I'm not sure I want a rough finish under there. Any ideas on something strong that's ideal for the bottom? I'm thinking for doing the whole bottom in satin finish is that a good idea or bad?

[@adamscustomshop]

@@SubdivisionAuto Good plans for the interior and exterior, you are definitely on track. I love the satin black smooth bottoms. That is all we used to do until the Raptorliner and bed liner on the bottom got really popular. Raptorliner works great but the smooth black looks awesome too. I have use the Eastwood chassis black on bottoms and engine bays and the interior dash and doors because it is a ceramic paint so it is a little more abrasion resistant than regular basecoat/clearcoat, and it is chemical resistant for all the oil and brake fluid you can get on it, especially in the engine bay area. If you use a regular satin single stage paint the brake fluid will probably eat right through it, unless you a tough matte clear coat over regular basecoate black. Like I said though, the Eastwood chassis black is great and Tamco makes a good satin black ceramic too but I haven't used it. I know the guys at Roger's Rod Worx use that and other Tamco products and love it. And, later if you want to add the Raptorliner or an undercoating you always can add it later over the chassis black since you need a good primer under it anyway so no harm no foul.

[@seantate814]

I used Eastwood after blast on my nova and had it in bare metal for over a year and no rust. It seems to clean off light rust, turns heavier rust black and leaves a zinc coating.

[@SubdivisionAuto]

@@seantate814 Eastwood what? I'm curious that sounds interesting a year is a long time worth trying

[@daviddaniels6818]

Muriatic acid will dissolve rust an remove the ospho before primer an paint I use Muriatic acid in a pump sprayer spray everything let it set a few minutes then pressure wash it off an thoroughly dry it with a towel then paint right away

[@SubdivisionAuto]

@@daviddaniels6818 interesting. Im still not decided whether to keep ospho on or not

[@vicferrari9380]

Dont be afraid to be generous with spray lube or some wax on the hot parts .

[@SubdivisionAuto]

@@vicferrari9380 yeah probably my biggest issue is I didn't go heavy or at least didn't let it sit long enough thanks

[@robertmungo5428]

When I'd get an old seatbelt bolt out i would go outside and throw the damn thing as far as I could!

[@SubdivisionAuto]

Oh for sure man they're the absolute worst. I had the same issue with my 88 Cherokee and I never got those damn things out! You can take an entire car apart nut and bolt but there is nothing worse than a beat belt bolt straight up. Thanks for watching

[@Gibbswelding]

You could galvanize it 😂

[@SubdivisionAuto]

😅😂

[@kinomiraru]

I go to this channel to watch a cool muscle car restoration, and eventually I come across a guy who talks. He talks and talks, he spends 90 percent of his videos just talking. This is the channel of a guy who talks. Damn. I wanted to watch a car restoration. It was pretty hard. To the point where it makes you want to stop watching. Alas.

[@SubdivisionAuto]

I get what you are saying and one day there will be one video of a full restoration, but not this video. Most our viewers are building their own cars so the videos are designed to teach people how to do so... in detail. So sorry its not for everyone