[DIY] Tesla LDU coolant leak fix story

[@daves2433]

Thanks for posting a way to do this without removing the motor from the car. I've been wanting to do this but haven't gotten around to it yet since the upper pipe looked like it was an unreachable location. I also have coolant on the sensor, but it's not to the inverter side - I inspected through the 3-phase connector plug at the middle rear of the LDU. I added a bit of gear oil (90wt) to the speed sensor hole to maybe soften the seal / give it some lube, and prevent corrosion of the bearing as well. 6 months ~5k miles, no issues yet, but it's not really a fix, just a test of a bandaid.

[@carlesscustomization1649]

Update after 10k range on highway speeds, all good, no overheating, leaks or anything

[@peteroffpist1621]

OMG some people are from another world. Very impressive and thanks for taking time to share.

[@ryanpierce1710]

You went IRON MAN mode on this! Thank you for taking the time to make this video. I am about to do mine with Kevins kit.

[@carlesscustomization1649]

Good luck with it

[@ryanpierce1710]

@@carlesscustomization1649 just did it. That back bolt on the top was kinda a pain in ass. I pulled my sensor. Looked just like yours, but more greasy. Definitely water inside. O well did it anyway. We will see? I don’t hear any noises and it still works like it should.

[@carlesscustomization1649]

@@ryanpierce1710 there will be no audible or visible difference, but peace of mind and hopefully long lived drive unit.

[@ryanpierce1710]

For the noise I mean already having coolant in there. I wonder how one it will last..

[@ineu1650]

Where you get those car stand

[@GF-dm3vb]

Good work! Do you know if Tesla will fix the drive unit under warranty if coolant is found on the speed sensor before the 8 year drivetrain warranty has expired? I suppose they should, but can imagine that they might require noisy bearings or isolation fault before replacing it.

[@carlesscustomization1649]

I did check mine after warranty was out, water on the sensor indicates broken seal so they should imo.

[@ineu1650]

Do you sell the this kits. If not you should is a great idea

[@ernestivanov3386]

Hi, could you please share the measurements of ur pipe ?

[@martinwinlow]

It’s 12mm o/s diam.

[@ineu1650]

Why did you need coolant on the stater

[@daves2433]

The stator gets warmer than the rotor, as that's where all the power is applied to the motor.

[@elektricka]

Were there any symptoms? Which type of TMS and how many kilometer do you have?

[@carlesscustomization1649]

Nothing was wrong other than a coolant on the rotor sensor, P90D 2016, 140k km

[@donx03]

Preventative maintenance, you fixed the issue before failure.

[@carlesscustomization1649]

​@@donx03that was exactly the point, hopefully it will last forever :)

[@MHRM72]

Leak of coolant is thru rotor seal as rotor is cooled by fluid passing thru. Does somebody knows if rotor cooling is used on all Tesla S (with different motor power)? Was there some design change in later production years? Thanks

[@carlesscustomization1649]

​@@MHRM72pretty much all teslas with rear motor have this issue except latest revision where they removed that cooling path

[@peterlundgren7981]

Hello, I just bought a kit from Kevin. Im thinking to drill a hole like you did. Did you disconect the 12v or hv? Is it ”safe” to drill there… Is there a risk to drill to deep to the electronics or there is ok space. How big of a hole? Thanks! Great video! /Peter from Sweden

[@carlesscustomization1649]

@@peterlundgren7981 hey Peter, I did not disconnect vcc neither the hv, but be very careful and drill only to get through, I had cable behind like 2mm from the cover and could easily break that if I wasn't careful. You might be lucky and have just empty space behind though. The cover is thick, maybe like 8mm or smth, but with the last mm check every now and then and dont use much force. I did a 12mm hole if I remember correctly, just enough to be able to make a thread for my connector.

[@peterlundgren7981]

Thanks 🙏👍👍 I will give it a try. /Peter

[@_vladas]

@@peterlundgren7981hey Peter , how did it go ?

[@peterlundgren7981]

@@_vladas I installed the kit but never drilled a hole.. I drive it to work every day. Since install done ca 4000km. Works great. Hope for a long time 👍😊🙏

[@Auto-RemVB]

And then there will be no problems with overheating? Has anyone already experienced this?

[@carlesscustomization1649]

I didn't have any overheating problems so far, this is after 20k km on highways at hugh speed mostly

[@daves2433]

Something tells me if you're racing or something, probably don't do this, but for "normal" daily driving I've seen a number of other channels & people installing kits and they all say no problems after this type of rotor cooling delete.

[@f36443]

As you didn't clean the coolant off the PCB's and coild, expect problems down range. It's cheaper to do it right the first time around.

[@carlesscustomization1649]

Possibly the corrosion is already there, if you watched full video you would notice I did vacuum it for couple of days. This could hopefully have helped with the moisture.

[@f36443]

@@carlesscustomization1649 My LDU took a whole week in an industrial oven to get all the moisture out

[@carlesscustomization1649]

​@@f36443sure thing, if you have resources to do it this way that's fine. I did what I was capable of in my garage without removing the ldu out. We shall see in time if that let's say fix did any good. For now nothing happened so far.

[@nc3826]

The LDU was defectively designed.... No retrofit is going to be truly "right"... Some people will never be able to appreciate, that "the perfect is the enemy of the good"

[@cyclefrst7799]

Those ramp looks really sketchy..,

[@Potet578]

This must be an older model....

[@peterlundgren7981]

This happens to all Ldu. In the P models up to 2019 My?