Poor Automotive A/C Cooling: Do You Have a Low Refrigerant Charge Level?

[@FordTechMakuloco]

Basic R-134A Manifold Gauge Set: amzn.to/32JTGCc

[@richieschmidt6225]

FordTechMakuloco is this set any good? I was thinking of getting yellow jacket brand in the future but I’d like a cheap set too.

[@shimes424]

Nice! I bought a set at a garage sale and it bent my low side valve 😒 Still using the AutoStoned manifold and vacuum. Free to rent with a $300 deposit. I'll have to get that set and a vacuum, maybe next year. I diagnosed a bad low-side switch with a multimeter...I found out that the switch contacts are normally closed when the compressor should be running. After making sure I had freon in the system, I jumped the terminals together, system ran great, recovered the freon, replaced the switch and valve, pulled a vacuum, and filled it up. Fixed for -$30- $40 after freon (that damn needle valve)

[@drome010381]

Can you tell me if tid codes for mode 6 are publicly posted or where I can get them for 99 expedition 5.4. Got what I believe to be a misfire but it is faint and only felt in drivability posing as a transmission slip. I have a few tid codes that i need to onow what they hex 41 for example.

[@weldingjunkie]

drome010381 code 6 codes?

[@drome010381]

@@weldingjunkie yeah I will probably murder the proper explanation but I believe it is a type of diagnosis protocol and not all scanners/software are capable of determining what the manufacturer meant by a certain test #. For example, I was looking for $21 which is hexadecimal 21 with ford I found it is a vacuum pressure code. I was able to reach out to Forscan and they pointed me to a Ford website that has their descriptions.

[@mike325ci]

Perfect! I searched all over and couldn't find my answer, and remembered I subscribed to your channel and searched your videos and found the exact same symptom I'm having with a 2003 Navigator that I recently bought. The low pressure side goes from 10 to 55 psi and back repeatedly and I hear the compressor clicking on and off. Although I'd like to figure out why it's low on refrigerant (leak or failing part somewhere?), I'll assume for now that the car is 20 years old and maybe has never had an A/C service, so I'll recover/vacuum/refill the system. Thank you so much, so glad I remembered you! A must have channel for any Ford/Lincoln/Mercury owner/DIYer!

[@waldorfslocalceleb]

I have been doing a/c work for about 10 years on heavy equipment and automotive.. you are spot on! 👍👍

[@ad7514]

Hi Brain ! First and foremost, I want to thank you for all your time and effort to make these videos. Its alot of work. You have saved my A$$ many times over the years with my Ford vehicles. I'm currently chasing a problem with my 2011 Taurus SHO A/C system. My wife drives this car everyday and tells me that at idle the A/C temp in the car starts to blow noticeably less colder air...not hot but warmer air. So, I charged the system first with PAG 46 and then followed with the R134-A. Initially the clutch wasn't coming on even though I turned the A/C turned on in the cabin to MAX with full speed on the blower fan. Within a few minutes,6-8min, the clutch switched on...as did the engine fan... At this point the 134 was able to be sucked into the low side....but only for about 1 minute, because the comp clutch switched off again. Again, a few 6-8 min later the clutched kicked on again and I was able to get the entire can of 134 into the system and the clutch stayed engaged from that point on until I turned off the car. When I went in the car to turn if off, it was super cold inside. Just to note, the gauge on the can of 134 stated about 40lbs was the pressure by the time the can was empty. Figured I was good to go. Although, the next morning, the system was acting like I never did anything to it. Acted like it did before I did the work. I drove it awhile and I could tell when the compressor switched on because the air got a bit cooler, but seconds later the air got much warmer. It was like the comp was switching off and on....like in this video. Do I have a bad low pressure switch or did all the 134 leak out of a bad seal. I am going to get a good manifold gauge set so I can get a better handle on whats happening in the system real time. How can I tell if its the switch(high or low) or a leak ? If the comp stays on it gets cold. Clearly, my limited discovery is that for some reason the comp shuts off for a while(minutes) and then switches back on again(for only a few minutes) Not sure where to go. I kinda think its the low side switch. is the low side switch down low near the comp. On this 2100 SHO I do I work on this comp area from under the car ?

[@mikechiodetti6737]

Nice Work! This is the weather for A/C problems! A lot of people don't know that the A/C system comes on in the winter during defrost, so if the struggled through the summer, definitely get it fixed in the fall!

[@summerforever6736]

If you turn it on I turn it off!!

[@luisbenitez3428]

Mr. you have the best video out there explaining the AC system on a car , straight-to-the-point very well explain thanks a lot

[@williamserver4332]

Very helpful . I do HVAC but never messed with my cars AC. Now I have an idea of how to charge it

[@clutch5sp989]

I bought an F150 with many-many probs JUST so I could follow Brian and fix er up. Mechanically she's perfect. The body is severely faded and screams I AIN'T GOT NO INSURANCE look about er. THANKS BRIAN

[@chadvanderpool6501]

This man is a damn good mechanic and super smart. His videos are always helpful

[@oldbloke100]

Middle of winter here in Australia, love your channel

[@wobblysauce]

I use mine more now than in summer.

[@laiky71]

It took me waaaay to long to realize what the channel name actually meant. Spot on! I like driving Fords, i hate fixing them.

[@alphaomega8373]

Ford Tech Make you crazy

[@gregoryvenable3944]

62

[@j.d.martinez153]

Thanks for adding the symptoms for the txv “expansion valve” system and some break down how how those compressor works. Good stuff

[@leo28a]

Thanks Brian, Ive got 2010 explorer with rear ac Vehicle came in for no a/c cooling issue. Ambient temp is like 110F. Hooked up my gauges engine off And found 250psi low side. Started the system and the readings were: 110 low side and around 250 high I knew right away the compressor is shot. Flushed the whole system and Replaced the Compressor, condenser, orifice tube, high pressure line & cooling fan as well. Recharged the system and rechecked my readings and they were: Low side 60-70 High side around 250-300 And no cooling whatsoever.. Right away i knew there's a blockage in the system. Evacuated & Unhooked everything and flushed again "twice" Recharged and rechecked, Low side around 60 and dead slowly going down to 40's neighborhood. And cooling started coming out of the vents between 60-50F The thing i don't like about this is the new compressor doesn't cycle off..! Its running non stop.. I drove the car highway for about an hour, watching my thermometer in the center vent with my scanner showing the compressor clutch pid. And guess what, The compressor kicked off on 31F degrees coming out of the vents. I felt good coz my canin temp sensor at least works. 😃 Right away I suspected the low pressure switch mounted on the accumulator, Replaced with OE part and rechecked the cycling, but no change. My question now : Why my low pressure reading is moving dead slow to go down. ?? One thing I did not change is my receiver dryer/accumulator becoz its not available and I didn't wanna use aftermarket. Does a bad accumulator cause the system to be sucked down ever so slowly like this..?? Why is my com not cycling on and off..???? its brand new OE. ??? Do you think a partially blocked accumulator would cause such condition..?? Pls. Share your thoughts. Love your channel man 🌷

[@metalhalide4043]

I had this same issue, turns out I was overcharged which can give similar symptoms as an undercharge. The compressor frequency cycle is dependent on evap heat load and engine RPM which is controlled by the low side pressure switch or evap temp sensor. If you are overcharged you will have higher pressure at the TXV, increased load on the engine which will use more fuel, could damage the compressor, higher pressure = higher vent temps. If your compressor does not cycle on recirculate with low to medium fan speed after the cabin has cooled most likely you are overcharged.

[@leo28a]

Metal Halide thanks man for your share I think i do. I think its overcharged yes. But the tag says 44oz and do i did. But then i look at the ambient temp and said to myself thats too much.. Engine off, static pressure I'm reading 166psi Tomorrow I'm gonna reduce that to 120psi static, close enough to ambient temp. and recheck my readings and cooling If the compressor started cycling like it supposed to be. Then you're the man 👍 I'll be posting what omes out.

[@leo28a]

But how come..? The tag sticker says 44oz. How could that possibly be too much..?? 😟 Could that be related to blockage in the system in anyway..? If i do still have blockage, its gonna be in the accumulator..coz like i said, I did not change it..i just flushed it with 401 like 4 times to get it to clrar out. But before it was CV ompletely blocked.

[@metalhalide4043]

@@leo28a Static pressure is no indication of current charge, even with a few ounces you will read the same pressure. You have to adjust pressures with the windows down, out of direct sunlight, A/C on recirculate, fan on high, let stabilize for 5 minutes.

[@metalhalide4043]

@@leo28a If you have any kind of restriction both your low and high side will have lower pressures because there is less pressure at the compressor, its possible to even pull a vacuum on the low side if the restriction is bad.

[@jimyep9971]

Nice. As a DIYer learned rhis with allot of homework and a passion for fixing cars. great video.

[@emmanuelgregoriocasiano6933]

So Educational, I can relate that because that is what I have experienced it too in one of my work last week. When you charge or add the refregerant at low side, I experience reverse effect, when charging, giving higher RPM, the low side gauge pointer rise instead of going down to indicate suction of the refrigerant, and also notice that high side gauge pointer goes down.

[@timothycc711]

Brain I wanted to thank you again for all your awesome videos. I've used your videos to do work on my f150. You go into such detail and show us everything we need to know to do it ourselves. Again thank you.

[@andydulosa8571]

Awesome! My 2004 150 is leaking oil on the high side tubbing and hose connection and need to replace the ac manifold. Was really hoping you have the tutorial video on how to remove and install new ac manifold on 2004 5.4l f150

[@mikecont9742]

Really like ac videos. You make the best step by step videos. Thanks for taking the time.

[@jakewrxdrift]

Pretty good video. I will stress that the only way to know how much is in the system is to evacuate it with an a/c(like you did), static pressure does not indicate anything other then something is in the a/c system.

[@billyyoder8171]

Thank you Brian. Good job. Have a blessed and safe week.

[@cbmech2563]

Thank God, my 97 f250 OBS the evaporator is completely in the engine bay. The evaporator took a about an hour to change.

[@scotts4437]

Great video thank you! My 04 F250 6.8 V10 AC compressor is short cycling. I ordered a set of gauges and vacuum pump. When I recharge system should I add pag oil or does the r134a have it already ? The sticker says 2lb 10oz r134a and 9oz pag oil. Any help would be great thank you

[@michaelburtin3457]

Great video I was told to replace my compressor and that’s it I haven’t put Freon in there since I bought it did the symptoms makes it feel like a rough idle

[@Paul1958R]

Brian, Great video! Both my 2002 and 2005 Focus have FOT systems so this video was very explanatory. I completely re did the 2002s AC system last summer (new compressor, condenser, dryer, and orifice tube). All new o-rings as well. I get 40F outlet air at 97F ambient. Got to do the same to the 2005 soon. Thanks! God bless Paul

[@uponthemesa]

Thanks for the video. You're the best ford tech i know.

[@johnbaker1039]

Just the correct information I was looking for. My 2018 F-150 output temp is only about 50 degrees and it takes a good 15 minutes to get there. Thanks!

[@jrobertfreeman990]

Thanks my friend. This help me get cold air but my 01 town car only blows cold now. Hot air is now the problem, it's not blowing out from the dash vents only the floor and rear and not very hot. If you can give help I'd appreciate it. Keep up the good work Sir. Thanks for everything, John

[@Theferg1]

Thank you bro!! I have learned SO Much from you and your channel!! 👍💯

[@AlazarAnbesaw]

Oh wow! I never about knew/noticed the crimp on the lines. Love your videos! 👏👏👏

[@jims146]

Looking at the static pressure I read 93 PSI which also is the same as ambient temp as well. This only holds true if the system and engine has not been run to as to increase it's temp. On 80's and 90's Fords the low cutout switch was adjustable, when the system was working fine but the customer still complained about cooling output I would adjust the low side to 28 PSI to give that extra cooling.

[@rrmech11]

Stay Cool Brian I got my MACS certification two days ago. Can't wait Till you make some 1234yf videos 👍👍

[@FordTechMakuloco]

Eventually, Ford has been slow to adopt 1234yf. I just had a 2018 Explorer still R-134A.

[@rrmech11]

@@FordTechMakuloco so far I've only seen them in hybrids Brian

[@heyitschinoable]

FordTechMakuloco New Fusions use it at least here wt fleet we have mostly hybrids that use 1234yf and POE lubricant. Expeditions i think are now 1234yf New Ford Ecosport as well.

[@watershed44]

@FordTechMakuloco The 2017 Escape we have as a company car uses r1234yf. Surprisingly the car only has about 23,000 miles on it and the A/C failed to cool above ambient temps of 83 F or so. Took it to the dealership and they diagnosed "weak compressor", not encouraged with the new systems.

[@rrmech11]

@@watershed44 hey buddy does it have service ports

[@rclarke2456]

You helped me thank you so much my Freightliner cascadia big rigs is running cool now

[@edbrandt8972]

Thanks a lot for making this video. I am seeing the same issue on my car. I think my leak is from the low side Schrader valve. I need to find the tool to replace the valve core that fits the valve in a Volvo. I am not going to recharge knowing that I have a leak. And I think the leak additives are not the way to go.

[@lawrencecavens5760]

It should be noted that the 2nd generation F250s have the same fixed orifice tube metering system as well...

[@Imwright720]

can’t the fixed orifice get clogged. How is that replaced. The whole line has to go. Years ago I installed a new system in a 97 Camaro. It had a screen inside to catch crap. It was so full I don’t know how anything got past it. The compressor crapped out and luckily the parts store told me about the other parts to replace. Sold the vehicle 5 years later and it was still ice cold. A Camaro with a 6cylinder has so much room to work. What a pleasure to work on.

[@baitse7676]

My 2005 F150 has a fixed orifice tube as well. Btw, the dryer and tubes going into the firewall were a bear to reinstall after doing the valve cover seals. Thanks for all the great videos!

[@olenaerhardt7725]

Thank you so much, that is exactly what I needed if I can connect the Set (I have Pittsburgh A/C Manifold Gauge Set) somehow to see exact reading, what is the current pressure on both sides without starting the car. For some reason no one else explains this part (including instructions). Please can you also tell why there is a Schrader Core on Blue and Red hoses (though on one side but still). On Yellow hose I understand, bcs one side can go into that 2nd hole, which is below the Observation Window, and that hole has a Schrader Valve, so the end w/Schrader Core can depress it. But Red and Blue connect to Manifold or Manifold Couplers, and there are no Schrader Valves there. Manifold coupler also has one Schrader Core with which it will depress the Schrader Valve on the port of Low or High Pressure. In instructions all the hoses are shown with Schrader Core Ends being on the manifold, where there are no Schrader Valves. Thank you again.

[@austinh1028]

Just changed out the fan clutch, A/C clutch (just the plate), and idlers on my '05, which helped a lot, but still not where it should be sitting at lights (on a 97 degree day). but now I notice it kicking on and off too fast like that, time for a can of A/C Pro

[@josephmalinowski6817]

I have a 2004 Dodge Ram 1500 5.7 V8 Hemi and I just replaced my AC compressor the dryer and a bunch of the rubber O-rings and I tried to recharge the system myself obviously I didn't wrong and that's the problem I'm having with mine the compressor kicks on and off so I'm going to bring it to a professional to have the system vacuum rated and charge properly because I have the gauges also and they were both sitting on the low side thank you for the video it helped a lot

[@OZD-mb2bs]

Good video. My 04 fl50 is doing that exactly guess it’s time to get recharged.

[@donaldt7764]

Thanks for explaining with detail.

[@beastlyendeavour9184]

Good refresher. Been awhile since I've done this.

[@bobadams3661]

2001 5.4 ford. Brought to shop, they charged but clutch didn't engage on the compressor. Would that just mean the clutch assembly needs replacement not the entire compressor? Thank you

[@andrewwhite-phil]

My compessor is constantly on so also the fan condenser, however not cold enough.

[@raymondjackson6069]

Great video, but 1. How to responsibly vacuum and dispose of refrigerant, and 2. A side by side of the gauges for before and after comparison. Thanks.

[@andrew39454]

The temperature at the gauge is the boiling point of the refrigerant at that pressure. At the low site it is the refrigrent boiling point inside the evaporator, which mean it is the minimum temp u can get. and it should be lower the better , but not reach freeze temp or vaccumm when the engine is rev. As u realize the compressor stop when it reach around 27psi which mean boiling point at 32F is freeze, so the compressor cut it off to avoid damge. When u driving, it become cooler, because the compressor run faster and it suck more refrigerant, low site pressure drop futher as also the boiling temp, u can demostrate it just by rev the engine. Inside cabin u temp gauge show 40F , it is same as the blue gauge 34psi pointed at 40F boiling point, the lowest temp u can get at the evaporator. The red gauge is for guidance only, 175 psi around 118F which is the refrigerant condense temp at the condenser and transfer heat away.

[@xiao-nanli3016]

Very nicely explained, good job!

[@Mr2004MCSS]

What causes the clutch to cycle continuously say at 2,000 rpms and up but not at idle? This is on a 2007 Superduty with the 6.0L. Air gap at the clutch was adjusted back to spec. Thanks.

[@europana7]

Solid ... what about PAG oil? When to add PAG ?

[@coyoteserranomusic]

Using my manifold set- I'm recharging through the low Port ONLY- the low Port coupling is obviously open. My question is-your highport coupling is open so this way you can READ the pressure on the manifold gauge... The High valve on the manifold gauge NEEDS to be closed...BUT the coupling on the high side is OPEN for reading on the manifold gauge? Is that last part correct??

[@FordTechMakuloco]

The coupling at the port on the system are turned in to open the shrader valves yes but the knobs on the manifold gauge set are closed so the sides do not mix in any way.

[@coyoteserranomusic]

@@FordTechMakuloco ahh haha okay. Was reading about the manifold gauges and how they work... So what's the purpose of the high side besides reading high pressure? What happens if you turn the high side on during the recharge on the high manifold value?

[@coyoteserranomusic]

@@FordTechMakuloco just to clarify- all coupling on the vechical are open during recharge?

[@jdpower5552]

Can anyone comment on their experience with reman AC compressors? My mechanic put the second reman unit in last week, the first lasted two days and now the second unit wont’t get above 110psi on the high side or below 50psi on the low side. Cooling a tiny bit but not much. I think the second unit isn’t compressing very well? Its getting louder too. Opinions? Thank you

[@FordTechMakuloco]

Never ever buy reman compressors.

[@jshan8205]

2014 f150 my low gauge reads 28 my high gauge will be 250 or higher when it is hot out. Do I need to change the expansion valve?

[@jcolivera881]

So on a FOT system, if I the low side is sitting at 60psi and the high side is at 250psi would that mean that there is a restriction on the low side?

[@marksmith8877]

You do awesome videos and I do one heck of a talented mechanic thanks for all the videos appreciate it

[@ksas58]

do you need to bleed the air out of the hoses when connecting to the air conditioning ports on car?

[@Zach_R]

Thank you so much for the wisdom and insight. If the compressor is cycling on and off do you have to vacuum or are you able to continue to add to it and it will eventually stop?

[@mcrowley8460]

Helpful video even if you don't own a ford.

[@1xdramakilla]

What about when there is like "mist" coming out of the 09 f150 a/c vents? Its still a cool temperature though coming out though

[@doubleeranch169]

Great videos, new subscriber here. Basic AC question here... AC’s are a closed system? So if you have low pressure there must be a leak somewhere? And if you repair anything on an ac system you need to pull a vacuum since the “closed” system was opened? Thanks! Love the videos

[@hackfreehvac]

You should come to Arizona and see the pressures they operate at out here on a hot afternoon start up. Lol

[@FordTechMakuloco]

I've been there working before during the tour across America. My sister lives down there.

[@Kona5.0]

Texas is the same. You could practically make a living off of doing quality A/C work here. Not uncommon to see pressures in the low 300s stuck in traffic on a 100+ day.

[@Salsero427]

I'm currently doing the AC work on my car I went through the whole vacuuming process I bought the vacuum and I have the manifold gauge set so when you're checking the pressure with the low and high side do you keep the valves closed or open them up or does it matter?

[@sigimontemayor4155]

Question a/c compressor Leak freon out of relief valve. Note I change compressor and still doing same thing. It might last a day or a week but will leak freon if I add some any advice?

[@NIS_ONE]

Thanks again for another informative video. Sometimes I already know how to do half these thing but just like watching the videos any way 😂 am I the only one

[@brentlebo9763]

I have a 2003 f-150 lariat. When I put it on max-A/C fan blows pump doesn’t come on. When I put it defrost the pump comes on. Any idea?

[@nickayivor8432]

KNOWLEDGEABLE FordTechMakuloco Brilliant video tutorial great thank you God bless you and all your family around you FordTechMakuloco From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧

[@David-rk2cw]

Having this same problem only it's with the high side doing the fluctuating, and instead of the compressor turning on and off its the coolang fan that comes on and off

[@dukemanvillle]

Great Video.. Can I ask you a question. My daughter has a 2017 ford explorer and she just had a new AC compression installed, belt and tensioner . When the car is on and in park the ac works fine( cold) and quite. However when she is driving the car is make a whining noise. do you know what the problem might be. If the ac compressor is bypassed there is no noise. The person that installed it thought maybe he new compressor was bad so he installed a second new one, we still have the problem any ideas? Thank you !

[@quintriggins6557]

I have 2010 F150 Lariat, 5.4L. I had system topped off by my local mech. last summer. He put some refrigerant in, but he said he did not want to overcharge. There are no leaks, but it still is not quite cooling to the max. I want to recover with a Robinair RG6 machine, and totally recharge with new refrigerant. The system holds 24 oz 134a and 6 oz of oil. Question: I assume there is still some oil in system. How much of that 6 oz would I assume is still in the system, and how much to add? Thanks

[@caseyhammond1804]

How do you test the 3 wire plug that goes to the alternator on a 2005 Mercury grand marquise. I have located a video that stated common problem with all fords manufactured, the title of the video is "How to test for a broken alternator wire" he showed a 2002 Mercury but it only had 2 wires and he spliced the red wire that failed the test and spliced it to the battery post on the alternator. The alternator suddenly worked, which in short is a broken wire. Now here what's happening with mine, the alternator when working goes 14.2 without a load and when a load is put on i get 14.1 it stays that way for a week. Now the alternator is dropping from 13.8 without a load to when a load is put on it drops to 13.1. The alternator checks out at the parts store, and also the battery when nothing is on and the battery sits it reads 12.6 how do i test the 3 wire plug on this Mercury. P.S Replaced 3 alternators and 1 battery already. Would appreciate any help you could give me FordTechMakuloco.

[@kumingo]

my 12 honda fit a/c is cold, but on long trips 2+hrs the ac doesnt seem to blow strong and temp of air is high. I do see large puddle of water maybe from the unit freezing up. I have to usually take a rest on my long trips to get cold air agian.

[@mw88stang]

@FordTechMakuloco, I have a 2012 ford fusion with the A/C goes to heat by itself (manual controls). A/C is still on but will not come off heat and man many people are having the same issue. Would love it if you did a diagnostic video on this issue. Peoples fix is to turn the headlights and fog lights on or to turn it all the way cold then back it off two clicks. And this seriously works for some reason would love to know why this is and a true fix for this issue. Ford quoted me 400 for a module update but i have read people have this done and it does not fix the issue. The blend door actuator works fine does the full sweep and stops with no clicks at the end. A/C compressor is running and the lines are cold when it goes to heat by itself. Again would love to see a video on a diagnosis for this fix. love your videos you post and anytime i have a problem with my fords your videos are the first i look for to solve my issues.

[@brianhoffman1146]

I really need help, 2007 F150. Bought this truck for years ago and I just can’t get the AC to blow 40° out the vents. I’m lucky to get 58°. Condenser, compressor, evaporator, have been replaced. Pressures are 30 to 35 on the low side 180 to 220 on the high side. Is this a orifice tube problem? I did replace it with the same one that was in there. There’s four of them that can go in this truck, do I need a variable orifice tube? I just don’t know how to fix this problem.

[@jimmyvisitacion2325]

Help... ac charged. Compressor constantly running ,but gauge low side pressure won't go past 26psi. High side temp 225-250, then ac fan kicks on. Vent temp will only get down to 51 degrees. And outside ambient temp 85 degrees. What am i missing

[@ihtfishing4726]

My 2013 F150 has a new compressor, TXV, pressure switch and has exactly 24 ounces of refrigerant per the sticker. Still cycles on and off every 30 seconds or so. Cools fairly well to about 50 but not sure why it cycles.

[@ProjectZGarage]

Thanks for the info I need to check the system on my 2010 f150. The AC does not blow cold untill you get to high way speeds.

[@cruisepix]

Make sure the condenser has good air flow, no debris like bugs, leaves, paper and grass for starters.

[@genericdude6551]

My compressor frequently cycled and caused the engine to rev up. I checked the low side pressure and it was a constant 35 PSI with the compressor on (engine running) but exceeded 50 PSI with the A/C turned off. So, with the compressor off the low side should be above 50 PSI and with the compressor on it will drop down to the 35PSI? Am I missing something or do I have some other problem than low refrigerant? 02 Mustang GT. It is blowing cold air but maybe not as cold as it should. The frequent cycling of the compressor (about every 15 seconds) seems to be an issue

[@nkdeftones]

I vacuumed my system held pressure system was recharged based on temp compressor engages still have hot air and high side is shooting way high 300+ 45 on low due to temp in vegas 107degrees below 20# humidy.

[@TalonID]

Any idea how to stop a compressor clutch from cycling (not caused by a low charge)? I've replaced the pressure sensor & outside temp sensor (EVAPORATOR sensor is on order), evacuated the system and recharged to spec. On AC Max, it stays engaged for 14 seconds and dis-engaged for 3.5 seconds (80% duty cycle). On normal, it will vary from a 30% to 50% duty cycle. This started a month ago. The truck is an '16 F150 5.0 Lariat. The A/C gets cold (46F) but not as cold as it did.

[@peterstone4547]

Big thanks to all your fantastic educational videos. I have an erractic reading on my high pressure guage. Could that mean the refrigerant control valve needs replacing on the compressor. I have garages here ( in the Philippines) wanting to just replace the whole compressor.

[@markzurlo1787]

Question for you, I have a 94 Bronco with a 302 in it, I've replaced all the a/c system are you saying the Clutch should stay on all the time and not cycle when you have the proper amount of freon in it? I was always under the impression the clutch should cycle on and off.

[@markzurlo1787]

@@freespirit1975 thanks for the help. I really appreciate it

[@darinpeterson3374]

A lot of times if it takes years for system to lose refrigerant, just add some and call it good. Have a truck with 20yrs on AC never changed a thing. Kinda like an oil seep, some mechs will tear apart the block to save the owner 3 qts of oil.But charge em 1500 bucks to fix the gasket...

[@willefixit]

explained well ,yester day had45l265h it was 100 out .fot 78 caddy 134a conv.

[@danielmartin7197]

In my car, when the compressor turns on the low side is 60, high side 105 and blows warm (compressor does engage), as I rev the engine, the low side reaches 30 and the high side also increases and begins to blow cold. Should I assume the compressor is shot? 09 Escape Hybrid

[@FordTechMakuloco]

You need a refrigerant control valve on the backside of the compressor.

[@alanaz4265]

I have a 2002 Ford Excursion and the air isn't cooling well. Low side pressure 10 psi, high side pressure 200 psi. No compressor noise, no cycling. ambient temp 92. Clogged orifice tube? Thoughts, ideas??

[@snowyowl9132]

What if the A/C cycling switch doesn't allow the compressor to turn on? How can we know if the refrigerant level is low?

[@pto200]

Good information, well presented. Thanks for your videos.

[@Just2362]

Does the heater core shutoff valve affect the efficiency of the ac system

[@FordTechMakuloco]

yes

[@athersheheryar689]

sir, if gas is low, does it suggest there has been a leak? if so, what about compressor oil?

[@Msleelee9487]

i recharged mine last yr and the clutch kicked in and worked and got cold 3wks then now clutch don't kick in and the air blows but not cold i've changed everything but the compressor out i out of ideas

[@orionthehunter9107]

I have a set of manifold gauges and wondering which scale do I read.

[@irvingcarbajal1433]

What does it mean if a compressor doesn’t cuts off at all, like it stays engaged the whole time even with out freon(I had to refill the system completely after evacuating it for an engine swap) the vehicle wasn’t running for over 6 years and it’s being without refrigerant that whole time too. I did vacuum, tried adding refrigerant then found a leak on the high side line going from compressor to condenser, replaced the line and did vacuum again and struggled to get refrigerant back in the system with the gauges and self-sealing cans but I was getting 90psi on the low side and little to no readings on the high side, so I tried one of those cans that come with their own charging hose and that worked but now I have a big leak on the charging line, is that an indicator of a faulty compressor (it does make a noise)

[@love198313]

Hai i have 2015 altima 2.5 sv. The ac will take time to flow cool air usually 6 km to run. And it will off when i increase the rpm more than 2000 or speed above 120 km. I took to shope and checked low and high pressure side the reading are 70psi and 150 psi. Kindly guide..

[@mikebenson8698]

This is a great series of videos ! This one in paticular got me going on the AC system in my 2006 F150. It was text book low on coolent. I charged it up based on your instructions, cabin air dropped down to 40 F I thought I was set. took it for a ride, 5 minutes down the road the air was back to ambient Temperture. What do think is my next step in troubleshooting? Thanks for your help Mike

[@dontderockmeriz4546]

My sons 2011 Fusion has been blowing cool air, not cold. But enough to keep him from sweating. Maybe it’s low too. It’s been a scorching hot summer here in Chicago.

[@WreckDiver99]

Could be an issue with the Schrader Valves. There was an issue in 2011 on the ports. It affected LOTS of vehicles, and not just FMC.

[@AmandaHugenkiss2915]

Harbor Freight is your friend. Get the manifold set it works well. 2011s probably have dye installed. Look for it with a uv kit. HF also has an electronic leak detector for ~$50. Works great.

[@dennisberg2474]

If the pressure is stable, but low does that mean the compressor is bad? Like stable at 40 and 150?

[@stevewilliams6354]

Great job very helpful you made me smarter thank you

[@jericlee1509]

got my honda crv 98, system cycle running fine n cooling. thermometer around 50 or 45... i just feel cooling is not enough, any tips?

[@jimkirkland9]

how do i get the old climate temperature control out the pannel

[@bryceellington6195]

Can you tell me we’re the low side a/c pressure switch is located on a 2010 escape XLT V6? I’ve been looking all over KZbin and google and can’t find an answer anywhere.

[@ralfsautomotive]

So you don't check for leaks? You don't replace the orifice tube? That sounds like a "Top Off" to me. Sorry if I am missing something but the refrigerant don't just use up. Yes, even a sealed System will lose some refrigerant over the years but I still always check so to not waste refrigerant and end up with a mad customer.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

This vehicle was charged with half a pound of refrigerant on purpose for video demonstration purposes only.

[@ralfsautomotive]

@@FordTechMakuloco got ya! I just wanted to make sure I am understanding.

[@nilesable]

He has other videos where he shows how to check for leaks.