DIY Waterproof Paper Mache for outdoor weather resistant crafts

[@melodyhenderson9474]

Looks great - but I can't seem to hear the actual recipe for making the waterproof mache mix... am I missing something?

[@brendaseller5461]

I read it all and eventually I found: Flex Bond Morton mixed to a "pancake" consistency - "Standard ratio mix is 3 parts mortar 1 part water. then add little more water till its brush-able" ... Will make a rough surface that can't be sanded down.

[@mert828]

@@brendaseller5461 why would you want a rough surface that can't be sanded down?

[@nowirehangers2815]

@@mert828 it can be sanded everything can be sanded

[@teekotrain6845]

@@nowirehangers2815 ikr?

[@zoes32flavaz]

@@nowirehangers2815no, not everything. Foam clay can’t really be sanded, it just tears up and makes a horrible texture.

[@marknhopgood]

I actually found that music enjoyable. Thanks for the info too!

[@DIYeasycrafts]

Glad you liked it!

[@TsetsiStoyanova]

I dig the pimp music, it made the project more authentic

[@nancyb4557]

I am also looking for the ratio of mix: water to Flexbond mortar mix. Thank you for sharing this method; I am working on a public art project (fiberglass dog), which will be left outside all summer.

[@ncredbird3998]

Thank you for sharing! I've been looking for how to weather proof creations like this

[@Ludifant]

Adding some waterglass or sodium silicate to the cement mix is often used to make cement repel liquids. This can also be applied after the fact as a coating. It´s very inexpensive and easy to get hold of, just take care to wear gloves it´s very caustic and will burn you.

[@nowirehangers2815]

Interesting never heard of it

[@vicikiehm5264]

I make paper mache pot for plants. My pots are unpainted or untreated with any waterproofing. My pots get wet and can contain water for up to 3 days before the water seeps out the bottom slowly. All of my pots hold their shape and form are hard and I can get away with less layers than normal paper mache. I make my own mixture because in South Africa if there are products, they are just too expensive to buy. Best cover the mold with plastic wrap or cling wrap for easy removal. My pots can be painted with anything basically for colour and the colour can even be mixed into the mixture and then glossed after the fact for the prettiness.

[@sharonodonnell2147]

Right ,Then you could remove and reuse ....Use the .Saran Wrap .

[@ThunderStruck15]

What’s you recipe?

[@BeautifulLife000H]

The comments have had me roaring with laughter! So many people losing their minds over such a simple project! Hahaha 😆 😂

[@crisleem]

Is it sandable so that the surface is smoother?

[@kimstoltz6270]

Any reccome dations for a surface that is smooth and shiny? Looking to do a ball shapr for an Xmas ornament for outside . Lime the size of a yoga ball

[@kaykyser7026]

Thank you for sharing this amazing technique! It's brilliant!!!

[@DIYeasycrafts]

+kay Kyser Thank you so much for the kind words. I was really just trying to make some fish shaped bird houses. Have had quite a bit of positive response on this one and love the feedback.

[@kaykyser7026]

I think people love it, because it enables anyone so easily to be creative and produce something functional

[@DIYeasycrafts]

+kay Kyser Please feel free to post any of your work on my facebook group facebook.com/groups/1668357033451028/

[@Bob-my2xe]

Good stuff 🎉

[@jaywilliams5138]

Wouldn't that acetone make the inside of the birdhouse toxic., especially for baby birds.

[@jensorenson9145]

Hi cool video, can you give me measurements and the ingredients please?

[@idrawcartoons1644]

Love this technique and wish to learn more.

[@marjiehyland4194]

I’m struggling with the foam insulation part. Is this the stiff you spray out of a can? Or is this the 4x4 sheets?

[@DIYeasycrafts]

Sheets

[@julieyoung8382]

I can't find your recipe for this mortar based paper mache. Can you please share it? You responded only with: "Recipe is in video." We can't find your recipe! Thanks in advance, please pst your recipe, your ideas look very good!

[@WendiWagner]

Do you have to melt the styrofoam

[@DIYeasycrafts]

No I jut wanted to hollow it out for birdhouse

[@RockinReadings]

the fish are so cute

[@DIYeasycrafts]

Thank you

[@tapinix]

Since this will hold it's shape when taken off the foam, would it be possible to make something such a working watering can from just paper mache using this technique? I know you mentioned making a bird house out of this but im concerned about extended use if its being used as something that will hold water. Do you know how long this will last for, if it will eventually give away if exposed to water for long periods of time?

[@DIYeasycrafts]

I really just do not know. Its basically a cement product so im thinking it would last.

[@mikec2810]

Great method, thank you for sharing. Can you tell me how I can mix a small batch of this mortar ie: mix ratio. Thank you in advance.

[@not_today_satan_7]

Mike C did you ever receive an answer?

[@sboz7387]

I would say you want the consistency to be like pancake batter or a touch thicker depending on your preference (start with a half cup or so of mortar and gradually add water while mixing). I have also had a successful sculpture with mixing the mortar or Portland cement (I think the flexbond will be the best long term goal being outside since ive had solid concrete store bought sculptures crumble after being in the elements all year for years straight) with paper pulp for a clay (papercrete) and used garden wire mesh for a form with plastic bags for structure stuffing pulling it out after it's set up. Play around with the stuff until you find what works for you. Wear some gloves and drop some plastic it gets a little messy :) good luck and have fun! Extra note: the longer it dries the harder it sets, wait a few days for it to set before pulling your plastic bag fillings and at least a week before you paint for best results. ;)

[@sboz7387]

tammy g. I responded with my take, hope it helps you.

[@qso3566]

Mike C: No, this is NOT a 'great method'. It is a very irresponsible way to go about working with papier mache.

[@chazeames4887]

the standard ratio mix is 3 parts mortar 1 part water. then add little more water till its brush-able . hope that helps

[@cajunvegan7716]

Can I apply this paper mache directly onto my exterior columns

[@DIYeasycrafts]

Not sure. What type of colums?

[@BrainSlugs83]

"We're just going to run it under some warter". XD

[@BeautifulLife000H]

I'm guessing Brooklyn or Jersey. Lol

[@reneeedwards1732]

Is the mortar mix simply Flexibond + water? I would REALLY appreciate a quick response since I plan on using this method for sculptures in a highly publicized flower festival :) Thanks!!

[@raritiesstudio1399]

AGREED, what is the MIX?

[@_Desiree]

so much for a quick response! :)

[@leannestrauss8239]

I can’t find this product anywhere in Australia. I thought Davco UltraFlex sounded similar but I found it very course. I’m sure I couldn’t paint it on with a brush as you do in your video. Do you know of any other brand that might be available here?

[@richardmccann4815]

@leannestrauss8239 You can try mixing exterior latex or acrylic paint with Portland cement, white pva glue, and a bit of water.

[@HiNinqi]

Does this sand well? I intend to use this for a jewelry purpose.

[@DIYeasycrafts]

I do not think it would work well for jewelry. Very coarse like cement.

[@therespectedlex9794]

Acetone inside a birdhouse. Runs a tap for 2 hours. You're a true environmentalist.

[@kimberlyoboyle451]

Can you use a chicken-wire "armature" underneath instead of the foam? Why didn't they just cut the foam out with a razor instead of the acetone? I feel like even if bits of the foam were clinging to the interior it would not be visible... also: did you remember what variety of Flex Bond was used? One more question: Why did you use interior (Behr) enamel paint instead of exterior? Is it just as good in that (enamel) finish?

[@BeautifulLife000H]

The paint can said interior/exterior.

[@eveny119]

...So your ''glue'' is straight '' flex bond mortar mix (powder and water) I assume?

[@DIYeasycrafts]

Yes

[@suepearson1455]

Perfect, could use material also, love it, thank you!

[@DIYeasycrafts]

+Sue Pearson very easy to work with. Wear gloves!!

[@suepearson1455]

+DIYeasycrafts Yes, thank you!

[@victorialangsdale1209]

So what is actual recipe for your 'Flexbond' and ?

[@victorialangsdale1209]

Sorry for waterproof paper mache

[@ZakZky007]

So where do I find the 'recipe' for the" mortar paper mache mix" ? Please.

[@Spark-ry9dj]

Maybe ultimate paper mache?

[@myrnasdao3260]

What is the flexbond

[@cutflower36]

Can u sand it down to smooth out?

[@DIYeasycrafts]

not really

[@sakurakuro2417]

Great video. Thank you for sharing such a great idea. :) The only problem i am having is that i am not sure of the mortar. I live in Scotland and i haven't been able to find the Flexibond Mortar only this - (to lazy to type it out, so copied and pasted :p) EVO-STIK SERIOUS STUFF FLEXIBOND SOLVENT FREE SHOCK ABSORBENT GRAB ADHESIVE 290ML @ £5. Which obviously isn't mortar. Is the Flexibond like grout used for tiling? I have found this - MAPEI FLEXIBLE WHITE WALL & FLOOR GROUT (W)2.5KG @ £10, flexible, durable, polymer modified cement based grout, water repellent, internal and external use.Is it suitable?

[@physicalculturist2437]

Could I use tin foil, instead of foam insulation?

[@DIYeasycrafts]

Not sure but do not see why it would not work.

[@charliezilla685]

I'm gonna make a dinosaur out of waterproof paper mache!

[@td6471]

Hi! Where can i find the recipe?

[@corineburgorgue3295]

Why use the foam, if you're going to 'melt it out afterwards? as long as you take the inside out, you can use anything as a basic form....no??

[@DIYeasycrafts]

+Corine Burgorgue For the birdhouse foam was actually the easiest way not only to carve the shape but remove the interior structure. Once dissolved with acetone it pours out of a very small hole as a liquid. If you do not have to remove the interior to create a void as with our birdhouse project the foam can be left and provides a very strong water resistant base.

[@Ivanizeify]

what could you use that would be cheaper than insulation foam boarding?

[@vikinggnome9307]

foam is free 99% of the time

[@RoeRoe123]

If you have some type of clay you may be able to carve it and then put the Flexbond over it

[@hollyalcantar3002]

Can you put the recipe in the description

[@travispratt6327]

The recipe seems to be go buy a $50 bag of specialty mortar. It says it’s “polymer fortified” so probably some Elmer’s glue to a $10 bag of thinset mortar would have similar results.

[@cameronpetersen5763]

Could you please point me in the right direction for the foam insulation? I’ve tried looking online, and have not had much luck. I need a good sized block (approximately 1’x1’x2’) of it for an upcoming project I am doing.

[@angelacarpin5437]

I did not find any blocks that were reasonable, but you can buy a wall sized sheet that is 2 inches thick at one of the big box stores for about $35. It is very easy to cut down to the size you need with a jigsaw or long knife.

[@cameronpetersen5763]

Angela Carpin thank you kindly

[@joancuadra1]

Thank you so much for sharing this video with us. I can't wait to try to make something!

[@AZ_ARTE]

Thank you for sharing with us

[@DIYeasycrafts]

+Ada Zamora my pleasure. fun project

[@MoxieScene]

Would this work with chicken wire sculptures?

[@DIYeasycrafts]

Yes absolutely.

[@abihoiland1203]

@@DIYeasycrafts I just made a giant Easter Island head out of paper mache. I made the form out of chicken wire but it was so big, it collapsed while covering it. I filled it with packing paper. I'll try your idea for water proofing it. What would be the worst problem I might encounter with my packing paper filling for an outside art piece? I've done lots of costume work, but this is my first outside endeavor. Any advice is appreciated.

[@lindabb9124]

Try doubling the wire for strength

[@walterblanc9708]

Great except what is flexbond? Internet comes up with a few different things that are not all the same. A scenic glue, and acrylic based filler you mix with cement. I bet its this though, FlexBond® Premium Crack Prevention Thin-set Mortar? Give us a clue!

[@amaliaaleman346]

Would this work with plastic projects?

[@lemmingnot]

What a great video! Can you tell me the name of that product? Is it Flexi foam?

[@DIYeasycrafts]

+Laura Brown Im not sure of its name but its standard insulation rigid foam. Got it at Home Depot. Comes in a couple different thickness

[@lemmingnot]

And you paint it on your paper? I've used spray foam before, but not like that

[@DIYeasycrafts]

+Laura Brown its not spray foam. its a solid sheet of foam insulation. Just carve it to shape and then paint on the flexibond mortor mache

[@KtO680]

Thanks for this video! Very informative. Just a few questions if you have the time, 1. Is Flex Bond the best brand of mortar that you have tried or can other similar products of different brands work as well? If they can/could, what is the most important aspect of the material (ex: crack prevention, thin-set, tile vs mason, etc.)? If not, and FlexBond is the only brand which seems to work, did you follow the exact water to mortar ratio for Flex Bond or did you need to tinker with it in any way? Let's say, theoretically, that I have an 'in' at a hardware store and could get anything I needed for free. Is Flex Bond still my best choice? 2. I am considering using this technique for some custom outdoor Halloween decorations and am really just wondering if you have tried any of these ideas or have any ideas on how they could be achieved: A. I like your use of foam and I will definatly try it out for details like fingers and facial features, but could this mixture and process be applied to large (say, life-size) chicken wire frames in almost a wallpaper strip fashion and still dry and hold its shape? Perhaps if I stuff the frame with paper or painters tarp to help back it as it dries, then remove the filler after the first coat hardens? B. Have you tried tinting the mortar mix then sealing with a clear coat? (This idea comes from considering lighting the figure from inside but using the mixture as a heavy diffuser for the internal light source, giving the glow a bit of transparency and reflection). The outdoor clear coat simply replaces the tinted outdoor coat in your process. Perhaps high-gloss for shine and reflection? C. Have you tried any other types of paper with this mixture? (newsprint, parchment, tissue, tracing, etc.) If so, how did well did they work or not work? D. Have you ever attempted this process with a clear acrylic (like window sealer) mixture? Say, theoretically, I make a simple wire frame (chicken, mesh, etc), then use a clear acrylic mixture in place of the mortar mixture which hardens and waterproofs after it dries (like shower or tub caulk), then continue with the rest of your process to waterproof? Or...tint the acrylic mixture, let's say Slimer green, and use with strong translucent papers (parchment, tracing, tissue, etc), finally sealed in a couple outdoor clear coats? Theory leads me to think this would be tedious but, if done right, you would end up with a somewhat translucent ghost which looks solid enough by day, but when lit from inside at night, would almost resemble a resin-casted effect (keeping the 10-20ft rule from scenic design in mind) which is still durable and light weight. Thoughts? Ideas?

[@TiffinFL]

Hi! I too have the same questions for my Halloween yard decor. Did you happen to find a solution?

[@KtO680]

I did! But its a lengthy process. Will take a bit to type it up.

[@KtO680]

@@TiffinFL We tried the flex bond and it works well but was too heavy for our purposes (which wasn't really very heavy at all but we needed floating ghosts and the mortar mix weighed the frame down too much, so they just hung there instead of swaying with the wind). If you want to make something permanent to be outside year round, this flex bond method is the way. But for temporary stuff like Halloween deco, its really only needed if you think something might fall on the deco and harm it, like a big tree limb or something. We've talked about doing a demonstration tutorial on this, but now our Halloween display is permanently canceled due to local teens becoming destructive. Its one thing to throw stuff at store bought deco, its another to trespass, vandalize, steal, and damage personal property of hand made pieces. One says "fuck Capitalism" and the latter says "I'm a spoiled brat who has no appreciation or respect for anything, especially myself and my community". So, this is probably the only tutorial we will have to offer: (Note: our theme was Ghostbusters, so most of our deco needed to act as their own little light box so they glowed on their own. This method gives both opaque or translucency in the finish, just depends on what you are wanting to achieve. This will not fully seal certain projects and dampness will occur where any gaps are left for cords or rigging, but it will not ruin or cause a failure to the prop and the dampness will fully dry out in just an hour in the sun. Also, some of our figures needed to be fully 3D and sealed while others could remain open in the bottom or back for access. The piece and its needs will determine which methods and steps below will work best for you) 1. Chicken wire for the frame and general outer shape. Be sure to figure out all rigging needs at this stage so you don't have to cut it back open and repeat the seal process later. If you want the figure to glow from within, see Note 1 below. We use LED rope light so it doesn't get too hot and the lights are sealed inside the rope tubing for extra waterproofing protection. Note 1: if you want the figure to glow from within but not cast the shadow of the chicken wire frame, make a full 3D tape ball figure from masking tape and plastic shopping bags (only plastic bags, not paper). Once the outer skin is laid on the figure and dried (still leaving access to the inside somewhere), you can remove the plastic bag form and fill the space with rope light then finish sealing the form. External lighting will not effect or show the chicken wire, only internal lighting which back lights the wire will. Note 2: Insulation foam does not need anything to seal it except outdoor latex paint + a UV clear coat unless its at risk of being harmed by falling objects, then use the flex bond method for extra sturdiness. A mixture known as "goop" in theatre (part outdoor latex paint, part painters caulk, and part joint compound -- mix ratio of each depends on sturdiness and aesthetic needs) can also work if flex bond isn't available to you. 2. Cut several sized strips of cheesecloth in advance, enough to apply at least 3 layers to the frame. 3. Have a whole bloody box of disposable gloves on hand, as well as a dust mask or respirator. You're gonna go through them quickly. 4. Choose a 1'x1' section of your frame/form, cover it in spray adhesive (we prefer gorilla glue spray for its waterproofing, but any kind will work. You'll go through several cans so start on something small to gage material needs and cost. No need to spend the extra on gorilla if not needed). 5. Lay/stretch a precut strip of cheesecloth over sprayed area of the chicken wire frame and smooth with gloved hands and a small dry chip brush. Work quickly in small sections as the spray dries fast and you can end up gluing yourself to the frame or, well, to yourself. The gloves will get coated and unusable rather quick. I replace them the first time I pick up a can to spray the frame and the glove sticks to the can rather than my hand. They are so sticky at that point that they are useless anyway and will cause you to backtrack on your progress. Dont bother with expensive pvc or workers gloves, just the same results and money wasted. 6. Repeat step 5 all over the frame until at least 3 layers of cheesecloth are applied and fully dried. Tap your finger against areas of gapping in the chicken wire, if the cheesecloth holds firm, you can move on. If not, add another layer of cheesecloth to the whole frame until you get solid tap results. Do not just spot treat the weak spots as the cheesecloth is acting as structural integrity. Let completely dry for at least 12 hours. 7. Make a basic mache glue mix using wood glue and water (yes it will give a yellow tint to the mix but the wood glue is more durable after being cut with water than basic white glue, and you can fix the tinting with paint or lighting). I suggest getting a gallon of elmers wood glue as you will be repeating this step just as many times as the cheesecloth step. 8. Cut and prep materials for mache process just like the cheesecloth. For EXTERIOR lighting and OPAQUE finish: newsprint is ideal. For INTERIOR lighting and a TRANSLUCENT finish: use extra large white coffee filters (we tend to buy them in bulk from costco for these projects, like 1,000 in a box for $5 - they go translucent when wet but retain strength & durability like newsprint). 9. Coat your prepped strips in the glue mix, throughly soaking the strips, then apply to the frame using a chip brush to smooth the strips or apply more mix or straight glue where needed. Coat the entire frame TWICE, allowing the piece to fully dry in-between layers (having a few box fans running while working will speed this process up). 10. Repeat the tap test process from step 6 to find and treat weak spots. For opaque finishes, simply apply more strips where needed for aesthetic or structural integrity. For translucent, pop a flashlight or bundle of string lights inside the figure to seek out leak or weak spots first. Mark weak spots to be reinforced with more filter strips and only patch these weak spots first and allow to fully dry, then cover entire figure with more filter strips to match the light leak from the patched areas (this is really only necessary if you need an even finished look. If your finished look needs a patchy, dark blotchy appearance - like craters on the moon - then you're good to go as is by simply patching necessary areas). NOTE: This is your last chance to get easy access to the inside without having to recover the entire piece in mache again should you have to break inside for work. If making a translucent piece, this is the point you will pull out the plastic bag form underneath the outer cheesecloth and paper shells and fill with rope light. 11. Cover entire form in one last layer of mache material, sealing any holes or gaps for cords or rigging to prevent water leaks. Allow to fully dry. 12. Coat any openings or gaps left in the frame around wiring with FlexSeal clear coat spray. Allow to fully dry. 13. Using ONLY LATEX paint with primer included (indoor or outdoor) paint your finish. Remember, if going translucent, paint with the interior lights turned on so you get a balanced paint finish that isn't too dark; I tend to use enamel spray paint as a base for these so I can get a solid base color coating in a thin layer, then add latex on top, but that does take some practice. If opaque is desired, just layer your paint as needed. 14. After your finished look is achieved and the figure is fully dry inside & out, cover any more gaps or weak spots with another layer of FlexSeal clear coat. Let dry. 15. Finally, and the MOST IMPORTANT step: cover entire figure in at least 2 coats of Ace Hardware's Seal Tech waterproof coating (follow directions on the can for ideal results: humidity can screw it up). Only Ace makes and sells this product and it is a dream come true. It will even waterproof any soft goods you want to put out: it didn't just seal the mache skull of our ghostbuster but also the wig, legit jump suit, and his shoes. It is as thin as water so it can be brushed on or put into a pressure sprayer without issue. Repeat this last step every year before putting display pieces back out. The Seal Tech is like Shellac, gives a good natural seal but wears over a 6 month period of constant exposure. Just to be safe, always recoat every season. NOTE: For certain fully 3D projects, an extra outer coating of FlexSeal clear on top of the Seal Tech is perfectly fine if it makes you feel better. Just note that the Flex Seal leaves a lightly textured matte finish. If the finish needs to be smooth, stick to the Seal Tech or try multiple layers of Shellac. The Shellac will hold up for the month but may need a quick touch up after a few weeks if its been really wet out.

[@TiffinFL]

@@KtO680 Wow! I'm so sorry to hear about the vandalism to your haunt. It's such a shame and I hope you have the opportunity to share your creativity and passion with your community again soon. Thank you so so much for this incredibly detailed response. There are some ideas I haven't even heard of before and I'm eager to try! I searched for the shellac you mentioned on Ace's website but wasn't able to find anything called "Seal Tech". Do you have a link for it? I've also read great things about a product from Hot Wire Foam Factory called Styroplast (link below). I'm looking forward to trying a couple different methods to see what works best for sealing a ton of props. hotwirefoamfactory.com/024_Styro_Plast.html Thank you again for taking the time to share each step!!!

[@KtO680]

@@TiffinFL can't seem to find the Seal Tech online. But my husband owns the local Ace and said it could be a warehouse supply issue and they've been holding back on listing certain limited supplies since 2020. Hes going to check the formal system today while at work and see if that is the case and he can still get the Ace number you can use for a special order or hell learn if they have discontinued it. It was primarily marketed as a concrete sealer but could do any porous surface. He said if it comes back discontinued he'll see what Ace chose as the new identical replacement. If nothing else, he said if they still have a can on the shelf right now, it can be arranged to be shipped to you from his store rather than a warehouse.

[@DIYeasycrafts]

No its cement based so it would crack. You could do it with fiberglass and resin

[@DIYeasycrafts]

Its be outside for over two yrs and no cracking. Do not use cement use flexbond mortor as directed in the video

[@vikinggnome9307]

it has a paper fiber infrastructure - that helps it felx just a little, enough to deture cracking id think

[@DilDaarBiker]

What do u add to make it waterproof?

[@DIYeasycrafts]

You have to watch the video LOL. I do not add anything its entirely new process

[@hansvonstetten3236]

@@DIYeasycrafts my understanding is mortar by itself is not waterproof...I have heard that adding white glue works...looking for verification on this notion.

[@Roarke_toys_and_models_reviews]

At 4.33 you didn't said that the interior is not treated against water or air moisture. It is logical that it will moist but not get trough or seen on the exterior surface.

[@Ivanizeify]

Insulation foam board is pretty expensive if you are going to use alot of it

[@vikinggnome9307]

white crap packing foam you get in most boxes works just as well for this

[@MerchantMonk]

great video. (23 jerks out there lol)

[@not_today_satan_7]

Where do i get the mortar mix?

[@DIYeasycrafts]

I got it at Home Depot

[@mexicanacarina]

Can I use styrofoam????

[@DIYeasycrafts]

yes

[@sakurakuro2417]

Hi. i would really appreciate a reply to my earlier query regarding the mortar. Thank you. :)

[@צלילהלפרין]

what is he using

[@jaberwoky_]

Nice

[@jeffmoles1585]

you did not say where you get the flex bond from that's why you got a thumds down

[@DIYeasycrafts]

Home Depot

[@gem9136]

What is the recipe??

[@DIYeasycrafts]

I just mixed with ware till I got consistency I wanted.

[@jaywilliams5138]

Since acetone is so toxic, why would you use it inside a bird house? Certainly there will be toxic acetone residue left in the bird house that would be fatal to any bird that went in. There is no way to get it out. Birds are very sensitive to chemicals.

[@DIYeasycrafts]

Birds have been living in it for years. It was washed out and had no smell prior to mounting

[@swhite8381]

great if i want to make a blue rock

[@qso3566]

Bad video.

[@bonniemerchant-jj4xs]

Why the music?

[@tanyas.3812]

Why do we have this irritating music drowning out the instructions?

[@Doris-y5v]

so annoying the background music .

[@maxheadroom4659]

turn the music down. makes it hard to hear your voice.

[@mert828]

Where in the hell is the recipe? What a waste of time.

[@malabuman2463]

Try to make the background music more prevalent. You'll get more views.

[@cppc7308]

I subscribe please help me l want to make outdoor planter pots l have Ceramic tile mortar polymer enriched and l have plaster of Paris can l used to make outdoor pots Thank you for your help NICE VIDEOS

[@DIYeasycrafts]

Plaster of Paris def not. My only experience is with the solution used in this video. I would stick with what is known to work

[@cppc7308]

@@DIYeasycrafts Thank you so much

[@cppc7308]

@@DIYeasycrafts Make more videos l love them

[@Doris-y5v]

the music is so annoying !!!! and destructive cant hear

[@RobstarLight]

music very annoying so switched off

[@Mandy138Cool]

Was really disappointed to see all the harmful chemicals used for a process that appeals because of its low environmental and monetary cost. This method just seems to completely invalidate.

[@Frantic618]

1. Speech OR music. One or the other. Not both at the same time. 2. Use acetone on foam to melt it and make a birdhouse??? You didn't think THAT through very well. Poor baby birds!

[@Frantic618]

I went to your site with a lot of anticipation... Just to find yet another tiresome place with hard-to-read gray text on a gray background. Black-on-white has been good for more than 4,500 years, but the new kids think they're going to improve things. Not happening, guy. Maybe you could get some advice from a PROFESSIONAL who knows the basics. I might run across it somewhere down the line. For now, I'll just skip it. Too bad, because it looks pretty good.

[@DIYeasycrafts]

Sorry not a computer tech. Just used a standard web page template from godaddy.