DIY Working Composite Vehicle Armour (stops an AK-47) Part 1: Building

Check out part two: • DIY Composite Vehicle ...
Check out part three: • DIY Vehicle Armour (st...
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Music by Johari
I got written permission from the band to use their music in my videos.
© 2016 Szilágyi Szabolcs

[@johnj1200]

if you run a piece of scotch tape along your cut line before you cut the fiberglass, you will have clean cuts on the fiberglass

[@bodyno3158]

Very useful suggestion, dealing with fiberglass recently.

[@docfisher948]

Nice advice!Useful

[@MrJust2times]

nice mate.

[@javiermalo01]

thank you

[@emmanuelnzimande2432]

@@bodyno3158 ìķķķik

[@bencapobianco2045]

Just a quick thought on fiberglass, when I build boats and other things from it we have to sand the cured surface before adding another coat of resin or anything really. The resin makes a waxy film when it cures and needs to be sanded off for proper adhesion of the next layer of resin, paint, gel coat ext. hope this helps

[@doorguner01]

with the hexagonal tile sheet if you take two of them and over lap them it will cover the gaps like fish scales no bullets can squeeze through like the Dragon skin body armour

[@uainttheone]

That's exactly what I did

[@michaellind3653]

works like a charm. testing with panels installed in a junk car, put final product in an F250 to armor the door panels, seats, foot well, dash and back of the crew cab. It does kill your payload capacity though so be sure to check your weight limits.

[@blogobre]

A few things. Using small amounts of 'polyester' resin as used in fibreglass panels made to provide ballistic protection lets some energy be transferred into de-laminating the panels. That is, it's on purpose. Similarly a larger tile will allow more energy to transfer into it [thats what the cracks are] reducing the ability for the projectile to penetrate. Porcelin with the highest wear ratios are ballasticly superior due to being harder. So obviously you have to consider what properties you want, destruction, cost and weight.

[@theq4602]

Well.......the M1 abrams uses many tiny tiles so I'll go with this guys idea

[@yukatoshi]

Larger tiles also means less hits.

[@neldanie]

Excellent comment!

[@matthewspry4217]

Small hex tiles 👍

[@miscellaneousmarauders5552]

IF YOU ASK ME, I'D THROW OUT THE THE CERAMIC, THE MARBLE OR ANY SUCH TYPE OF WEAR MATERIAL THAT COULD MINIMIZE MULTI-HIT CAPABILITY... WELL, I SAY THAT BUT, IF I WERE TRYING TO STOP A 50 BMG ROUND, OR SAY, A LOT OF THEM, LOL... THEN, I'D PROBABLY BRING THEM BACK INTO THE DESIGN BUT, ANYTHING BETWEEN A HANDGUN AND A 416 RIGBY, NAH... DON'T NEED IT! MY SECRET? TI-6AL-V4 @ .0100" THICKNESS... I WISH I COULD'VE AFFORDED AN EVEN THICKER PLATE, LIKE: .0200" THICK FOR EXAMPLE BUT, THAT SHIT AIN'T FLIPPING CHEAP! LOL... NOW, TO BE HONEST, I'VE NEVER TESTED UP TO THE 416 RIGBY BECAUSE, I DON'T KNOW ANYONE WITH THAT MUCH MONEY BUT, 308 WINCHESTER, 7MM REM MAG AND LESSER ROUNDS WERE STOPPED BY THIS LAMINATE ARMOR WITHOUT ANY FUSS! WITH THE AFORE MENTIONED RIFLES DELIVERING A BOX EACH AT JUST 10 YARDS! EACH RIFLE TEST GETTING IT'S OWN PLATE... SO, THEY'LL TAKE AT LEAST 20 ROUNDS OF SOME REALLY HOT, MEAN LEAD! ESPECIALLY THAT 7MM MAG.. TOOK THREE PEOPLE TO PUT 20 ROUNDS ON TARGET! AND THAT CONCLUDED OUR DAY, just that one test.. HAHAha-ouch! DETAILS: USE 5 PLATES OF TITANIUM,. ONE IN FRONT COATED WITH AN ANTI-SPALL COATING ( TRUCK BED LINER, 1/4' THICK ) 1 OUT BACK & THE THREE REMAINING IN THE CENTER, SEPARATED BY YOUR CHOICE OF WOVEN CLOTH PRE-LAMINATED PANELS, 1/8" THICK PER PANEL, YOU WILL NEED 4 PANELS. YOU CAN USE FIBERGLASS, KEVLAR, CARBON FIBER, & EVEN DENIM, ETC.. STACK THEM AP;PRIOPRIATELY AND GLUE TOGETHER WITH WHATEVER YOU WANT.. I USED GORILLA GLUE... ITS A LITTLE FOAMING AND GOES EVERYWHERE WHEN YOU PUT THE CLAMPS ON FOR THE FINALE SQUEEZE BUT, IT HOLDS TOGETHER NICELY, EVEN AFTER SEVERAL HITS! ONE SOME OF THE TEST PLATES, I USED GAFFER TAPE AROUND THE EDGES SO THAT WHEN THEY FINALLY DELAMINATED, THEY WOULDN'T JUST COMPLETELY FALL APART.. THAT HELPED A BUNCH! HOWEVER, ONLY GLUE THE EDGES WHERE THEY CONNECT TO THE FRONT AND REAR PLATE, NOT ON THE SIDES OR THE CENTER OF THE TAPE... IT'LL SHATTER! THEN YOU WOULD'VE DONE ALL THAT FOR NOTHING... TRUST ME, I LEARN EVERYTHING THE HARD WAY SO, IT DOESN'T HELP. ...NO SIR! WHEN I STARTED DOING THESE PANELS, I STARTED WITH THE OVER-BOARD, OVER THE TOP 5 PLATES OF TITYANIUM AND THEY STOOD UP AGAINST 5.56 & 7.62X39 WITH NO TROUBLE, AT ALL... & ON UP TO THE 7MM REM MAG.. IN FACT, WHEN TESTING WITH THE 5.56 OR THE AK, JUST GO AHEAD AND SEND ALL THE MAGAZINES DOWN RANGE! LOL, WE HAD THREE PER RIFLE... SO.. IF YOU HAVE MORE THAN THAT, I MAKE NO CLAIMS TO IT HOLDING UP ...NOT BEYOND 90 ROUNDS, LMAO! ... BUT DEFINITELY CAPABLE PLATES, NONE-THE-LESS! BUT NOT CHEAP TO BUILD, NOPE! THE NEXT STEP WAS TO SEE JUST HOW DOWN SIZING COULD HELP! REDUCING COST AND BUILD TIME BECAME A HIGHER PRIORITY AND WE WANTED TO TRY BOOSTING EFFICIENCY BY SHEDDING SOME UNWANTED WEIGHT & ELBOW GREASE... AND BURN LESS MONEY... BECAUSE THAT WAS DRYING UP QUICKLY TOO ( I WISH I COULD GET MY BIG ASS BELLY TO DO THAT JUST AS EASILY BUT, I DIGRESS... ) I WENT WITH JUST THREE TITANIUM PLATES WITH TWO 1/4" CLOSED CELL FOAM SEPARATER SHEETS, LIKE CRAFT FOAM FOR KID PROJECTS IN BETWEEN THE TITANIUM, LAMINATED WITH GORILLA GLUE AND SPRAYED WITH A SPALL COATING UP FRONT, 1/8" THICK TO START... AND THAT COMBINATION WOULD STOP PISTOL ROUNDS WITH EASE! 9MM, 45 ACP, 40 S&W, 357 SIG,10MM, 357 MAG - HOT ONES TOO, FROM UNDERWOOD AMMO! UNFORTUNATELY, NO ONE HAD A 44 MAG TO TEST THE THREE PLATE VERSION AT THE TIME... THEN THE 3 PLATE VERSION EVENTUALLY RECEIVED AN UPGRADE WITH SWAPPING OUT THE ARTS AND CRAFT SCHOOL SUPPLIES WITH RIGID MARINE GRADE FOAM BOARD AND THAT WORKED OUT SWIMMINGLY! THE DAMN PLATE WOULD ACTUALLY FLOAT IN THE POOL... WHICH WAS SUPER COOL! NOW, IT WOULDN'T SUPPORT ANY ADDITIONAL WEIGHT & KEEP IT AFLOAT BUT, IT WAS STILL TRICK AS SHIT TO SEE ACTUAL ARMOR FLOATING, YA KNOW? HOWEVER, IF SOMEONE WERE TO USE THIS SET UP IN A PLATE CARRIER & ON A BOAT FOR PERSONAL PROTECTION... AND FELL OVERBOARD FOR WHATEVER REASON, IT WOULDN'T DRAG THEM STRAIGHT TO THE BOTTOM OR HAVE'EM SCRAMBLING FOR THE RELEASE BUCKLES EITHER! PLATE THICKNESS WAS ROUGHLY 1.25" WITH AN 1/8" SPALL COATING SO, IT COULD FIT MOST CARRIERS. BUT 5.56, 7.62X39 WERE ABLE TO GET THE TIP OF THE PROJECTILE THROUGH THE BACKING PLATE BY A 1/4" ON THE 5.56 AND ABOUT 1/16" FOR THE AK ROUND, BOTH LODGING IN PLACE! BOTH WERE STANDARD BALL AMMO AT STANDARD PRESSURES. NEGATING ANY CHANCE AT AN NIJ LEVEL 3 RATING... DAMN IT! I WISH I COULD POST PICS BUT... IT IS WHAT IT IS! GOD BLESS AND STAY FREE!

[@vincentgsr.-solutionsthatw9337]

Great job, Young Man. I'm impressed. Think about an ultra-thin layer of aluminum, aggressive adhesive, another ultra thin layer of aluminum, adhesive, your BR tile, then mount to your plate.

[@kathrynck]

Well the way a glass (including ceramic, it's a type of glass) dissipates kinetic energy, is by spreading it out across it's surface area, until the whole thing shatters. So, the smaller the glass (ceramic) plates are, the less energy they can dissipate. You end up having to weigh the pros & cons of different sized pieces. Larger pieces dissipate more energy. Smaller pieces mean less area compromised by being hit. US car windshields (required to be 2 panes of glass laminated together with a flexible bonding material, to keep occupants in, and deer out), are broad enough to effectively dissipate energy nearly equal level 2 body armor, but only ONE time. Also it helps to have your fiber weave material arranged with alternating angles, like + and x orientations (this wastes material when cutting from the cloth, but it helps). Two main approaches are very hard material (but brittle) on very strong material (not brittle). Or a very tough, but lightweight & flexible matarial ("catches" projectile). Mostly ceramic is used on armored vehicles to resist "active heating" from projectiles with explosives in them (due to ceramic's high temperature resistance). The fact that it is _also_ a type of glass, means it can achieve double-duty as a form of kinetic energy dissipation. So it's ideal in tanks. But against small arms fire, I don't know if ceramic is ideal or not. But it doesn't make a large amount of dangerous "glass dust" compared to other types of glass, so it is at least easier to breath while being shot at. If I were designing an armor for a light vehicle... I'd go with something which is both hard and strong (like AR500) for the exterior layer. There is a form of AR500 which has a metalic glass seared onto it's out-facing surface, this is very very (very) durable. So durable that it's not even practical to smooth the outer surface. Then under that, ceramic tiles to dissipate energy. Then aluminum structure (mounting, framing, chasis), And lastly a kevlar blanket on the inside which is mounted only by edge grommets, so that it can flex & stretch when pushed on by bullet fragments or spalling. For windows, several layers of tiled tempered glass embeded in a mono-block of polycarbonate. Alternatively though, there's something to be said for just using thicker steel for armor, and letting the armor do double duty as the vehicle's chasis. Interestingly, soil (sand or dirt) is amazingly bullet resistant. I think there would be some advantages to a sort of blanket of co-joined sandbags. Would be light to transport to a location, and fill with 'armor' on location. Easy to apply/remove. Think "scale-mail" but made of sandbags which attach to a robust webbing. A hidden benefit would be that this would also have amazing RCS and thermal imaging qualities. And if you deliberately did a sloppy job while filling the bags, it would blend in with the local dirt hues. Alternatively if you were tidy and used matte black sandbags, it would be hard to laser designate/rangefind. It would be shockingly "stealthy". Even has excellent radiological qualities. Also, it would be as cheap as dirt. It wouldn't take much to apply grommet pegs to the exterior of a light vehicle to hold it in place. It would effectively be self-healing even, not to mention spalling-proof. To shoot through it you'd need at least .50 BMG, and that wouldn't "go through" exactly (not with any effective energy left), it would just burst individual sandbags, and eventually eat the armor away. It's also a very DIY-friendly concept. So one of the best light vehicle armors there is (in my opinion) would be burlap, rope, and a small shovel.

[@MisterRorschach90]

i use blue painters tape on my cut lines, and keep half of the tape on the edges until im ready to use the cloth. perfecly straight cuts, and no fiber pulling or warping.

[@Fynn-Victus]

I've done that hegagon idea, another option for place of the fiberglass is welding blanket

[@hacksawengineering4550]

Thanks for the information on armor, im craftsman that makes stuff in my garage with scrap. I'm the only person in school ho can actually understands armor, ballistics, and armored vehicles. It is nice to see people who are interested in subjects such as weaponry. It's hard to test and make armor and other things like weapon since I'm only 1years old.

[@hacksawengineering4550]

Oops 14years old

[@guxsus13]

@@hacksawengineering4550 so you 17 now?

[@hasansaleem4983]

@@guxsus13 so you 1 month older now?

[@guxsus13]

@@hasansaleem4983 yes

[@elmothewise3915]

@@hasansaleem4983 so your a month older now?

[@jamesgarlick4573]

If you bolt the steel plate layers together, it will increase the bulletproofing capabilities of the tile

[@SteveBueche1027]

I enjoyed your straight to the point approach of your technique and facts.

[@kingmasterlord]

as an autistic person I can tell you, most people don't. refreshing that you do.

[@stunna1050]

Home made Dragon scales!! Nice! Good work!

[@Tremulousnut]

Fiberglass is old technology what a lot of governments have moved away from (due to the dangers of particles when hit), cracking, and lower performance - It was what's used in helicopter crew armour as a spall shield (look up "Vietnam chicken plate"), as well as early composite vehicle armour (Land Rover Snatch). You might want to look into buying old police/military vests and salvaging the kevlar instead, sometimes you can find a pile for dirt cheap from companies that does disposal of surplus/outdated/out-of-warranty equipment for the government. Proper ceramic mosaic tiles aren't "$100" each. It's usually $100 per batch (usually just enough to make 1 sapi plate). Nevertheless expensive unless you arrange to do it in bulk.

[@Tantheman.]

fiberglass is more available to civilians which is why is why it is being used for diy projects.

[@uainttheone]

I made plates like this... Took them into my back bedroom and shot one from about 10 feet away. I still have it and the 9mm round is still stuck in it and did not go through. It was a hydroshock to.

[@bobbyduke777]

when you make these used strong forms and clamp them as tightly as humanly possible. the less resin, the lighter it will be, and stronger because there is more glass per square inch

[@arlenewolf5260]

Hi prior to making your cuts, try placing painters tape on both sides of your cut line (on both sides of the fiberglass).leave about 1/2 inch between the pieces of the painters tape. wipe a thin film of silicone on both sides of the fiberglass. When dry make your cuts and remove the tape.

[@garynew9637]

There's a leopard 1 tank in a park near me. Still has 25mm thick ballistic skirts on it.

[@yukatoshi]

2 small tips. Use nylon fibres evenly mixed into the silicon for added strength, and use a spall liner on the rear. High wear strength carpet would do at a pinch, and that could be improved a little too with a hard plastic/soft plastic layer between the steel and carpet|! :)

[@jacobkeary6740]

The bigger the tile the more kinetic energy it can absorb but the less shots you can get out of it. To me I'd try for a tile about a quarter of the size of the panel.

[@accordv6er]

Should revisit this with the tile embedded in PE backed by fiberglass. Use window urethane too

[@josedorsaith5261]

You have good taste in music. Sounds like August Burns Red

[@ozzi189]

a channel called "grant thompson (the king of random)" has a tutorial on how to build a styro-slicer, it should work on fiberglass as well.

[@jackscepticye7357]

Eddie Rest In Peace Grant Thompson

[@yelectric1893]

Does it cut fiberglass?

[@yohanchristian2988]

wont be as good as grinder i think this stuff dont melt as easily as you think

[@fajile5109]

Best choice is a belt saw no?

[@louisst-pierre3604]

Wow, great work you're doing here! You got a suscriber, I look forward to your next videos.

[@PrepTech]

+Louis St Pierre Thank you very much. I can assure you that you won't be disappointed.

[@SergeyPRKL]

Grinding that epoxy and inhaling the smoke is infinitely more dangerous than the fiberglass dust. It can be lethal. Friend of mine once just collapsed to anaphylactic shock after cutting cured epoxy. he wasn't allergic or anything to it. But he survived because workmate was fast and ambulance was fast there. But now he cannot be in vicinity of raw or cut epoxy. He will get the shock immediatelly.

[@bobbyduke777]

I feel the ceramic should be enclosed in the fiberglass to lower spalling

[@globalsacrifice5248]

Would Kevlar be more effective than carbon fiber for this project?

[@thomaskitlica5572]

You have to shift the cloth if you just fold it your stacking the seems so bullet finds a slot if you rotate or use chopped cloth unwoven but it you fold woven cloth you are creating a channel it's able to follow!! Makes a huge difference in amount of layers needed!!!

[@julian23561]

Would it be better if the fiberglass sheet layers were layered in different interlaced directions? Wouldn't it catch projectiles better?

[@ctrlaltdebug]

Yes

[@earljenkins127]

Was that an orb floating at 0:28-0:31, on the lower part of shirt/stomach-level?

[@nadivvv]

Ghostly

[@guavamilkshaketwitch3679]

How many layers on fiberglass?

[@curiouspeople6441]

where did you buy the fiber glass ? any place for the cheapest price ?

[@bobbyduke777]

I am surprised more people do not used silk and fiberglass

[@joe9349]

I was thinking of trying polycarbonate plate sandwiched in sheets of carbon Kevlar fabric and window security film with a resin undecided, or carbon Kevlar hard sheet with Kevlar fabric and security film, layer it shoot it, layer it until it doesn't get penitrated or gets rediculous cost or size wise, I've been in love with the bullet proof sports car concept since Knight Rider. I'm trying to make a ballistic bump cap insert, I doubt I'll be successful, I like to be completely concealed, firearms, body armor, etc.

[@jimmyolano929]

1:12 * Got multiple hit capacity. * Light enough for fit on a vehicle. * Easy to build. * Durable.

[@iSkrapsRacnus]

@Jimmy Olano You’re wrong too. It wouldn’t be “Got multiple hit capacity”, it’d be “It can take numerous hits. His second one was right, “Light enough for fit on a vehicle” is wrong, using “for” makes no sense. Your last two corrections is merely just capitalizing. Next time you want to correct something make sure your corrections make sense.

[@samuelevinti]

hey you are in Budapest?? I'm reinforcing a cheap (supposedly) IIIA chinese PE plate with fiberglass, kevlar and mosaic ceramic tiles!

[@don123486]

When will I need vehicle armour???

[@theroundtomato]

I have been planning to biuld a full suit like this and I dicided I would use hexigons because it can rap around the curved armour, so it's funny you may have had a simmilar idea

[@bob15479]

Those tiles seem way to small to me. You're almost guaranteed to hit the space between them and it's like shooting a tile that's already shattered. Why not use slightly larger plates, maybe 4 cm by 4 cm? ooh I have a good solution use two layers of plates that are offset!!

[@Mike-vp8nt]

Great job and interesting projects, be good to see in body armour and helmets

[@jasonmunsey246]

Does it stop 5.56 green tip?

[@netx421]

Should have applied thin coat of epoxy prior to cutting your sheet, pro tip💪

[@favoritos2420]

Fantastic job dude!!!

[@nateb4543]

What about 2 layers of honeycomb tiles offset so there are no gaps?

[@BakedTuber]

Wet tile cutter would cut easily i think

[@koitk]

Maybe looking into two part silicones makes your life a bit easyer. You can buy some that are quite liquid so they flow between the tiles. Also the regular silicone doesn't cure very deep, just the surfaces that is contatct with air.

[@jimmyolano929]

6:00 Sounds very logical!

[@sifuhotman1300]

Smaller tiles make it better to withstand multiple shots but larger tiles can absorb more energy. So smaller tiles can take more shots but those have to be from smaller projectiles while large tiles can take fewer shots but from bigger projectiles. The ceramic layer is key in composite armour for converting kinetic energy into the energy needed to crack/break chemical bonds of the parts that keep ceramics together.

[@Islandbiker10]

Use CLEAR packaging tape over the lines on both side thst your cutting. It will keep the edges from fraying and theres no need to remove the tape either.....your welcome

[@thegunnut1944]

Thank God this can stop not only the AK round but the AK its self 😂

[@nonono8136]

👍👏..but did you test it with a YT film so we can see it?

[@guesswho600]

Cut the fiberglass with a heat knife?

[@garysmith5177]

Good job.... not to be a buzz kill but would ar 500 steel plates be cheeper and easier?

[@taiparker8379]

no and would make the vehicle super heavy heavier

[@angelobovara317]

Floor tiles are added weight with no balistic value.

[@TexYMatt98]

You are wrong. The only way for modern armour to stop bullets from rifles is with ceramic or similar materials. The problem here is that the ceramic tiles are too small and too thin (the hexagon ones) or just way too small and not good material for the marble ones.

[@AB-ov1zm]

Why did u stop making videos

[@becausevideos8692]

Awesome tutorial

[@PrepTech]

+BecauseVideos Thank you.

[@GreenStuffConsumer]

Quietly draws up blueprints of tactical terminator armor

[@bobbyduke777]

If you want to spend, silk and carbon fiber.

[@tamaskiszi7487]

Nagyon jo lett a videó! ;)

[@bodyno3158]

BTW, some sky-high priced item are sold on bucks, like 100$/1kg.

[@whispersunset1]

3 direction layups have been proven best for this application. Might check out u.s. d.o.d./army based research papers

[@PaulFurber]

Very impressive engineering. Are you using normal laminating resin?

[@PrepTech]

+Paul Furber Thank you! Yes I do. It was advertised as laminating resin for fiber reinforced composite systems.

[@AbdulmunamMubarak]

PrepTech

[@jhartmac100]

Weight?

[@johnakridge2916]

What happened to this guys channel

[@edleska3591]

next time when you cut the fiberglass before you cut it take you there masking tape or painters tape and put it across the fiberglass then draw your line and cut it that way the fiberglass will not fray so that you don't have it start unraveling it'll make it easier to put the leftover away and work with the other part of the fiberglass

[@PrepTech]

+Ed Leska Yes that is a useful tip, next time I'll definitely do it this way.

[@bobbaggins5852]

Why didin't you just FOLD it instead of cutting it?

[@Tantheman.]

there would be air gaps which would increase the thickness and weaken it

[@SuperKillbill66]

Super work bro , greetings from India , working on a similar project ; subscribed , looking fwd to more videos !!!

[@PrepTech]

+Noel love Thanks, I'll check out yours too!

[@Drakwdeanrer]

This is an amazing work. It is obvious you spent a lot of time thinking about this. Are you an Engineering/Materials Science graduate per chance?

[@PrepTech]

No, I'm an engineer, but not in that field. I'm interested, but only on a hobby level. For now.

[@somewhitedude01]

@@PrepTech any updates on this? With times in the US as they are this is a very worth while investment for the safety of yourself and family

[@bodyno3158]

I did a little research on Alibaba, aluminum oxide plates are dirt cheap, I think they can do better than just normal mosaics, and if you want go for full nuts, those silicon carbide plates' price are not their actual price, you will need to contact the dealer for actual price.

[@freeslave8824]

Why not simply use a 1/4" AR500 steel plate?

[@Mingebagz1]

It's not readily available. Additionally it's difficult to drill, weld, etc. Also, supposing you're improvising, how the hell do you identify a piece of ar 500 from a piece of mild steel?

[@notthemama5586]

You can cut it with a cutting torch, drill it with a carbide mason bit crazy sounding but it works , ID it with a file if it bites deep its mild steel if it sings off its ar500 , as far as welding it goes for a 1/4 you could us a 7018 rod with a pre heat or if you want to get fancy a e11018 with a pre heat

[@notthemama5586]

And the other part of that is just about every sawmill, rock quarry, mine, or industrial area has it pretty much laying around search the local scrap yard

[@retekfekete7807]

Ez az akcentus már nekem is fáj. :D Az üvegszálszövet rétegeit elbszokták forgatni egymáshoz képest. Gondolom az is ad némi plusszt.

[@crankyboris]

Nice one, i had some scrap carbon fiber that i made a plate of, for shits and giggles, was about 12mm, didn't even stop a .22, but the energy was starting to diffuse in the last mm or 2. One piece of advice, use a much stronger press, there's way too much resin left in that fiber. Or use vacuum bagging with breather cloth to suck up the excess.

[@PrepTech]

+Boris2k Yeah thanks for the advice, I would use vacuum bagging if I'd have one :D I assume it wasn't a very dense carbon fiber then.

[@crankyboris]

No, CF just isn't mechanically suitable. You don't need a special vacuum pump, i have a hand pump i use to finish pulling vacuum through the 8 cent check valve, normal vacuum cleaner to pull the majority of the air out first though. Just come back every 15 minutes or so and give it a pump in case you've had some gas out or what not, but you should never have a vacuum leak. The pumps for brake bleeding are perfectly suitable, though the one I bought came with all sorts of adapters. Edit: Also you might be surprised how cheap the "consumables" like the plastic and the sealant for the bags are.

[@nadivvv]

Can I wear this

[@jimmyolano929]

3:16 Aprox. 50 kilograms.

[@user-ri4hy1qw4l]

Good video

[@urgencepc4563]

Wow, that's a lot of steps for a weaker armor than the guy at ZNA productions. Maybe it's the type of fiber glass used?

[@nadivvv]

The guy from ZNA productions only stopped shotgun slugs tho, it didn't even stop 5.56 rounds

[@Hugosellstedt]

thanks awesome video!

[@hughjundy1045]

I love this music

[@Thegauntlet04]

Would you consider doing a video on plastic armor from WW2?

[@cjf-rw8vl]

Thegauntlet04 what do you mean

[@thomaskitlica5572]

Don't understand why you set them up different how can you expect to get answers?

[@icy_bit7306]

Eyy fellow Hungarian!!

[@guitardaddy6]

This failed doing penetration from 7.62x39. not worth watching. Just buy plates from a manufacturer

[@guxsus13]

still better than nothing

[@Master_torch420]

I have subbed to you i am hopefully going to do this to my car in the future

[@JiggerzWithAttitude]

Dude...yes! You got a sub ;)

[@glockks56]

Isnt it smarter to just stack 5 or 6 of the aluminum sheets together?

[@axonoxa]

Compositions provides multiple hardness, density and mass that lessens the projectile's energy each material it goes through. It works more efficiently rather than just one material also it may reduce the weight or material application depending on the type of materials used in the armor composition.

[@jolllyroger1]

Stainless was best choice... Very hard to break the slug

[@oozly9291]

A hard plastic may be better to prevent spalling

[@wetwriterrr]

You did not show test shots All I see is a theory asking for support.

[@ViperVenom16]

pretty fucking amazing. subbed.

[@fieroboom]

I don't understand why none of the diy armor videos I've seen are laminating the other layers inside fiberglass instead of just gluing them on... 🤷‍♂️ Even a thin envelope of 1 or 2 layers of fiberglass would provide FAR better adherence than glue, I'm pretty sure... 🤔

[@knrz2562]

Marble mosaic:Ceramic mosaic:Fiberglass cloth:Epoxi resin:. Fleece: , light clothingheavy-duty work pantsHessian fabricOrganic solar cells on fibers[ (wearable tech)

[@pr6264]

Pozdrowienia z Polski

[@kenezrg]

Nice 😎🇵🇱 sub for you

[@adanalonzo2940]

Sell it on ebay ill buy it made

[@paty8132]

I just think it's a little inappropriate, but no one could ever use it to a bad purpose, am I right? Good video though.

[@tinkeringclaws5559]

How is it inappropriate?

[@Kaylent56]

Hú de hallatszott a magyar akcentus de jó lett a videó. XDD

[@johngotti9086]

00:46 his shadow looks like Donald Trump

[@TheCraigy83]

Lol kinda does...just outta shot is the parasite pulling his strings.. Make israel great again trump 2020 🙄

[@certopacket1312]

Are you hungary?

[@moahammad1mohammad]

Thanks very useful when I get drafted for ww3

[@davidgerekovacs1139]

Hello (#magyar)

[@blackcleip2544]

you are speak too fast. try slow down. i need to respond though XD

[@Kol8eight]

hát rendben