Make your own "prefinished" plywood

[@scottmacgarvey6733]

Had 7 sheets of plywood to finish as I was too cheap to buy the prefinished stuff. Your process worked like a champ!! Very pleased with the way it turned out.

[@HomeEvolutionShow]

I'm so glad it worked out for you!!! Thanks for the comment.

[@cvpajcg]

Thank you so much for making this video. I can't ever find pre-finished plywood in my area. I used this method to make cabinets for my laundry room and the product turned out beautiful. Bless you!

[@MD-en3zm]

I usually do something similar. I like to use a 1 lb cut of shellac (bullseye is about 3 lbs in the can) as a washcoat and add a few drops of transtint to the shellac which tones the wood. It really helps to warm up the wood since the water based poly doesn’t add any color and can look too white. I avoid the oil based for the same reason you do - inside drawers and cabinets it just stinks forever - not to mention you have to wait forever between coats. Water based you can recoat so much faster (and shellac even faster than that - saves some water based coats by sealing first). Paper plates are a good tip - never thought of that but it makes a lot of sense and easy to just chuck it when done.

[@HomeEvolutionShow]

Yeah, the 1lb cut is a really good idea for the washcoat. The water-based poly is good because it doesn't add any "amber" color to the appearance. I also use these little paper bowls (dixie) too :) Thanks for the comment.

[@jessjulian9458]

I have been looking for someone to learn cabinet making from. I think I have found that someone. You explain the process extremely well. Thanks for sharing your talent.

[@HomeEvolutionShow]

I appreciate the kind words. If you have questions, please feel free to post. Thanks again for watching. -Pat

[@TheKelseyKids]

Thank you for the video and practical tips.

[@xandecampos2557]

Hi, this morningI was watching your videos in other subject, and happen to send you a question on “how to give a finished look to the plywood, late on I decided to look at the videos again, and found this video. I had that feeling of “woooo this guy work really fast” lol…., of course the video was already there, just excited to do it on my own. I want to thank you for take the time to do a video with so much useful information. Very well done.

[@HomeEvolutionShow]

+Xande campos That's too funny. I'm not that fast anymore :). This video here describes one way to finish the inside of your cabinets. Make sure NOT to use any oil-based varnishes or urethanes on the inside. It will smell for years :). I do have some videos on how to prevent "blotching" in Cherry and other woods. But when we do our next stained built-in, I'll show you how to finish from beginning to end. Thanks for watching, and taking the time to post such nice feedback, and asking good questions. - Pat

[@xandecampos2557]

+DIYHomeBuilt thanks chief

[@lisatailby3637]

Thank you so much for this. I'm about to start a major kitchen renovation and keeping my costs down is more essential than the time saved while still wanting to end up with quality cabinetry.

[@HomeEvolutionShow]

Glad it was helpful!

[@ranasurfa]

I am building my kitchen cabinets, and I found your videos, and they have helped me a lot in the whole process. Great videos and great job.

[@HomeEvolutionShow]

Appreciate the kind words. Very glad they helped. -Pat

[@lewisgottschalk2178]

Excellent video, just what I needed for my project.

[@HomeEvolutionShow]

Glad it helped!

[@harv488]

Hi Pat, Very happy to see you posting new video again. Always some new and interesting tips and tricks to pick up. I'm working on bedroom furniture now out of cherry (armours, vanity, dressers). The same approaches that you presented for kitchen cabinetry still apply very nicely. Thanks again for posting these videos for your eager fans.

[@HomeEvolutionShow]

+Harv Thanks Harv. Glad to be back. Hopefully have more soon. Thanks for the kind works. Glad to see you branching out :)

[@grouc2002]

Thank you very much, one of the most useful video I found.

[@CB71SS]

Fixing to build my kitchen and bathroom cabinets and wanting to have that prefinished look on the inside. This is perfect for what I want. I have a galley kitchen and is too narrow for premade cabinets and I want solid wood anyway not particle board. Thanks this is going to help me a great deal.

[@HomeEvolutionShow]

So glad it helped!!

[@haroldobrien4322]

Thanks for the tip. I've been looking all over for prefinished plywood and even most of the lumber yards near me don't stock it. In fact the nearest one, where it isn't a special order is 30 minutes away.

[@HomeEvolutionShow]

+Harold O'Brien You're very welcome. I'm glad you can make use of it. I know what you mean. it's the same for me, 30-40 minutes away, but I still go there when i have a big order. Thanks for watching and taking the time to post! -Pat

[@joelvanstaden9083]

Thanks for the good tips and ideas. I like the way you use the paper plates, I will be doing it the same way

[@HomeEvolutionShow]

+Joel Van Staden Thanks for watching. I also use a lot of those dixie bowls for things like wipe on poly. they're so inexpensive if you can get them in bulk. Anyway, thanks for taking the time to post.

[@cribbsprojects]

In 2021 still works! Nice teaching video, thanks!

[@robertkeefe1557]

I love your videos i actually used your videos on cabinets and built my first set of kitchen cabinets they helped me tremendously the cabinets turned out awesome i learned so much by watching the videos i actually watched tjem multiple times thank you again so much keep up the fantastic work and videos of course 👍

[@HomeEvolutionShow]

Thanks Robert. I'm so glad they helped. Knowing the basics, you can try other methods as well. Thanks again for watching, and taking the time to post such kind words. -Pat

[@ronh9384]

Home Depot has been carrying prefinished plywood for a year or two now. Most stores should stock it but it might be a special order in a few stores. You can look it up on their website.

[@HomeEvolutionShow]

That's really awesome. The two or three by my house don't seem to carry it...

[@matermark]

Thanks for this tutorial. There's an article on how to do this in an older issue of FWW or PWW, I'll try to find it...

[@robschaper5139]

Thanks Pat! Another great video! You really make everything you do look easy, and I always learn something new.

[@HomeEvolutionShow]

+Rob Schaper Well, it always looks easy on film :) But thanks. I'm glad they're helpful in some way. thanks for watching and posting!

[@billrick4729]

That's some good info. I believe you can get prefinished ply from Menards but it is special order - birch, maple and maybe even cherry - it is about $65/sheet, so about $20 more than the oak or maple they have out on the floor. This looks like a very attractive alternative.

[@HomeEvolutionShow]

+Bill Rick If you do a lot of it (and have the time) it definitely saves some money. I pay about 75 per sheet for prefinished maple. Still worth it to me :) Thanks for watching and posting! - Pat

[@ze_german2921]

My local supplier sells Pre-Finished for $120 a Sheet. Vs unfinished at Lowes for $50 a sheet. And since I'm building 10 Kitchen Cabinets I will need about 10 Sheets so this will save a lot of money.

[@HomeEvolutionShow]

Glad it helped!

[@AnneAlexander-lp7vz]

Thanks for the video. I am using B2 maple plywood for my cabinets and painting exteriors. I would like to do something like this for the interior. Do I need the poly step or can I just stop after a few coats of shellac?

[@MrArturo48]

Good tip Pat, I was looking for something like that, I am going to do it like the way you do it, thank you very much.

[@HomeEvolutionShow]

+arturo wong Thanks very much. I appreciate the feedback and for watching and posting. - Pat

[@Automedon2]

I live just a block from an exotic plywood supplier - everything from maple to burled walnut and African and Brazillian hardwood plywoods - all available as finished. I never even knew the place was there until I did an Internet search and said "damn that is right next door". I bought the prefinished maple and I didn't dare ask what the fancy ones cost.

[@HomeEvolutionShow]

That's awesome. I have to drive 30 - 45 minutes or so to get to mine. So glad yours is close! the plywood is mormally 4x8 in general (little more from my place) but I'm going to try to price out some 4x10's for a project so i can cleanly avoid seams...let's see how much that costs, as it's special order.... Thanks for posting! - Pat

[@Automedon2]

I forgot to mention, they also carry the edge banding for all the species they sell. The place is like a wonderland.

[@Mitermikeswoodshop]

pat glad you are back, really enjoy your videos.

[@HomeEvolutionShow]

+Miter Mike's Woodshop Hey Mike, thanks for checking in. Hopefully I'll have a few more posted soon. No issue with footage, just with editing time :) Thanks again.

[@rnmaa1914]

Minvax Polycrylic says cure time is 24 hours. is that needed? Also how do you store the "brush to apply" for future?

[@jasonroach8751]

Thanks for this.

[@Petertronological]

Thanks! Great video!

[@HomeEvolutionShow]

Thank you!

[@squeekhobby4571]

Thanks for the info

[@valpashchenko9932]

Thanks so much for the video. Does it leave any strokes as a brush would do? Or this type of application can give an even finish as we would see from the factory?

[@fubar94]

Just watched this video for the first time. Very nice way yo prefinish your plywood. I will definitely have to try this sometime. By the way, I just found the my local HD has started to carry the PF birch in 3/4"...about $50 a sheet. Before that I would have go to a special hardwood store in San Francisco that carries all of the PF birch, but a lot more expensive, unless you opt for the low grade chinese import stuff, which is really only suitable for your garage cabinets and such...IMHO. Very informative...Tks.

[@HomeEvolutionShow]

That's awesome. And totally agree on the import stuff. The place I go to gets theirs from canada, so everything is EXACTLY 3/4" not 11/16 like most big-box stores. Thanks again for the post -Pat

[@jboat571x9]

Randy Cash not sure about Chinese ply from box stores, but I've used the the finished one side Chinese ply from Columbia forest products (my local hardwood supply) and it's been great. No voids but you don't see the edges anyway and the finish is hard as a rock. Not sure what the advantage of paying $12-$15 a sheet more is.

[@berg8970]

Not that it really matters since this plywood is on the inside of the cabinet, but you would have a much smoother finish if you would wipe the plywood down with a tack cloth after sanding and sweeping between coats.

[@HomeEvolutionShow]

+Berg That's a great point. And you know what? it does matter. I was just in a bit of a hurry. On any builtin we do that is stained/urethaned the tack cloth is essential. This finish still ends up pretty smooth, but as you said, tack cloth would certain make it more "perfect". Thanks for watching and taking the time to post.

[@hmtrimworks7148]

Nice method

[@HomeEvolutionShow]

Thank you! Cheers!

[@restore64]

Do you have to sand the plywood before doing any of this? If so what is the procedure?

[@jefffishjer1495]

Pat, What do I need to change from the steps above in order to be able to stain the plywood before applying the poly?

[@HomeEvolutionShow]

+jeff fishjer have you watched the video i made on finishing basics? If not, it might be worth a watch. Plywood has a thin veneer on it (assuming you're using like oak, cherry, maple, etc.). That veneer doesn't seem to absorb stain like solid stock. I usually get much less "blotching" if i'm staining cherry plywood for example. I will always recommend to try it on a small scrap piece to make sure you like the look you create.And don't pick the cleanest looking scrap in the pile. Pick one that has some flaws in the grain, so that you can see how the stain reacts to "abnormalities." Anyway, there are a zillion ways to finish plywood with staining. The simplest way is to lightly sand (remember the veneer is thin) the plywood, use a tack cloth to get all the dust off, apply the oil stain, and then coat with polyurethane. There are other methods to prevent the stain from soaking in so much (like using a 1 lb cut of wax-free shellac before applying the stain) but generally plywood does not need such attention. Hope that helps.

[@Tj4ndirish1]

Hey Pat...........first, thanks for finally posting a new video. I enjoy them a lot. While you're answering questions about glue and kreg jigs, I have one for you. Kind of in another direction of this video, so I apologize for that. Anyway...............I want to make a bookcase out of 1x12 pine or whatever. I'd like to do fixed shelves and not have brad holes on the outside, so I'd like to use my kreg and glue. My question is, if I router some slots (how's that for technical, I was going to say rabbits, but know that's wrong too) to set the shelves in. So, if I'm using 1" (3/4") and route 1/4", what size of a screw should I use so that it doesn't go through? Sorry for the elementary question. Thanks and keep the videos coming. Especially the one on how you use the shop cart!!!!

[@HomeEvolutionShow]

+terry jones first of all, glad to be back. It's been crazy busy. I'm glad you enjoy the vids, and hope you get something out of them :). The word you're looking for is "dado" which is like a rabbet, only not on the edge of the board. As to your question, I'm wondering why, if you dado 1/4" depth for the fixed shelves, why would you want to use pocket screws at all? I'm not trying to sound trite, but here's why i ask. If your bookcases has face frames and a back, that will hold everything in place. the dado channels support the weight of the shelves. and the glue holds them in place (especially if you clamp for a few hours). Will your shelves have fraceframes? or a back on it? The other question i would have is, will your bookcase have a crown on it? or a base? if so, you can further add strength by using screws to hold the top of the case and the bottom shelf. What i'm trying to get at is, it depends on how the cases are put together, and whether you have some of these other elements or not. that usually dictates (for me) how the case is constructed. A trick I learned from Norm Abrams was to use a brad nailer and drive a couple of brads on an angle from underneath the shelf into the side of the case. It took me awhile to learn the right angle to not blow threw the side of the case. Food for thought i guess. And finally, having a 1/4" deep dado is no different than pocket screwing a 3/4" piece to a 1/2" piece. There are two ways to go about doing this. You can either use a shorter screw (1"), or adjust the stop collar on the drill bit to make a shallower hole. But either way, I'd try it on a piece of scrap first. If you're going to be drilling a lot of them, it's worth doing a test piece on some scrap. Hope that helped. thanks again for watching and posting.

[@tj4ndirish]

+DIYHomeBuilt Pat that does help. I've done 2 projects, so I have very little experience. And those 2 projects include cut and paste and screws. This book shelf, in my experience would be a bit of a stop up. I'm thinking of putting a couple of 1x2's together in an "L" shape as legs that run the full height of the shelves and then using same to run across the front of the shelves themselves. I guess technically that would be putting a face frame on it, right?As for my original comment, as I said, I'm inexperienced and thought that doing the dado and glue and pocket screws would just make it that much sturdier. I appreciate your input and hopefully will be able to send you pictures. Thanks,Terry

[@Popsimath]

I'm getting ready to do this on all my cabinets but I can't find those little styrofoam pads. Do they have a name or do you have a link. I realize this video is 3 or 4 years old but it's still the best.

[@bbcharacter1253]

very nice video. I need to make some cabinets with glass see through doors, so I was going to stain the insides of the cabinets to match the outside. I suppose that you could do the same thing and just pre-stain the plywood before cutting and assembly (yes, I did watch your vids on finishing - again, nice). Given that, I'm concerned about not damaging the finish during cutting and also about what to do if there are edges that don't fit just right and then you have the light color showing while everything else is stained dark? Any ideas/tips? Thanks.

[@HomeEvolutionShow]

You can do it either way. One is more time consuming than the other. It's nice to just be able to stain a whole sheet, but as you said, you have to worry about handling. one good scratch will cancel out all the savings. One thing you can do is cut the pieces but stain before assembly. that way you get the benefity of not having to finish the inside of a cabinet, and you avoid having to cut on the table saw. I've also (in the past) put down plywood "sleds" that i use underneath the stained/finished piece so that the nice piece doesn't ride right on the saw table itself (which can scratch it). When i do this, i still cut the pieces of plywood (4x8) at least in half long ways. then hopefully you're only triming the boards not cutting these monsters on the table saw. Good luck!

[@tanahwatts3940]

I've got some plywood with a slick paper on it how can I get it off

[@edwinperez6819]

Can you paint over ?

[@sajithniranjan9597]

Hi, I'm planning to build a carrom board as a project. Can you give some tips how to make plywood surface as a carrom board playing surface. Thanks.

[@HomeEvolutionShow]

the first thing I would do is go with a wood that is not too grainy. Oak plywood for example has very porous grain. I would go with maple. The next thing I would do is make sure that the surface doesn't get "sticky"....have you ever been to a restaurant with wood tables where the surface feels tacky from the humidity? Yeah, you want to avoid that on your board. I would use a lacquer finish on it. Good luck!

[@georginaarmstrong7288]

In order to prevent bleed thru on oak cabinets, would you recommend straight shellac or BIN primer? Using Stix and BM advance on top.

[@richardscogin6906]

I am building a garage and lining it with plywood 47 sheet. Would you have any thoughts or suggestions.

[@HomeEvolutionShow]

Depends on what the plywood is. paint-grade? stain-grade?

[@mikemilam525]

Pat, our local home stores, Lowes, Home Depot, Menards etc. What they carry is 'birch plywood'. Is that good enough for cabinet boxes? Thanks

[@HomeEvolutionShow]

Birch is fine for cabinet boxes. Especially if you are painting them. Staining Birch is tricky, especially to match your face frames. If you're staining, definitely try a few scrap pieces to get a good match. Thanks for watching! -Pat

[@mikemilam525]

Thanks Pat! The boxes I'm going to build after the first of the year are in a basement bar area and will go against the back wall between a wall on the right and will end against a refrigerator on the left. I will stain the end toward the fridge, but since it won't be seen, it won't be critical. I intend to pre-finish the plywood on the sides of the panels that are visible inside the cabinets for a clean and easily maintained finish.

[@booger1957]

how much warping do you get if finishing only one side? if any - how do you deal with it?

[@HomeEvolutionShow]

None. Plywood, specifically 3/4 inch, is a very stable material. Additionally, you are cutting it into smaller pieces to make cabinets and screwing those pieces together on several sides. I've had no warping to speak of. I deal with warping by using the plywood in the first place :). I know there is a lot of debate on this topic, but even if you finish both sides, you can't stop mother nature, but it's far more prominent in solid wood, not plywood. Finishing one side, in this application, should be perfectly fine. I should note that if you are using maple, and you use the other side for the visible area, you can stain/poly that too :). Thanks for watching. -Pat

[@sammobley92]

If I wanted to stain the plywood a dark color I assume you can stain and then follow these same steps to get the same feel and protection correct?

[@HomeEvolutionShow]

Generally speaking yes. shellac is one of the most versatile finishes. it can go under and over just about anything (but always check :)) Thanks for watching. -Pat

[@tc9148]

Can’t find those nifty pad applicators with a handle? Where can I buy them?

[@HomeEvolutionShow]

I got them from Home Depot

[@matthewrusso1350]

Question for you; I like using pre-finished Baltic Birch for drawers I build, but that leaves an exposed unfinished edge on the top of the drawer sides/back/front. Do you go back and finish those or do you leave them unfinished?

[@HomeEvolutionShow]

+Matthew Russo Hi. It really depends on the application. There are two conditions. You either want 1) to leave the exposed edge because you like that look of Baltic birch, or 2) you want to hide the "ply layers". If you want to leave the edge exposed, yes, i like to finish it similar to what's shown in this video, but usually what i do is round over the edges so it's not such a harsh 90 degree piece. Then i'll finish the pieces of the drawer separately, not like in this video where it's done all in one sheet. If you want to hide the ply layers, you can cover with "edge-banding veneer". Just apply with an iron, trim and it looks like it's solid wood (well, to the untrained eye :)) Thanks for posting, and great question! -Pat

[@brandonduff364]

Did you have issues with the pad Coming apart in the finish?

[@HomeEvolutionShow]

No, but admittedly you have to work quickly and i don't reuse the pads often. which brand of pads did you use? I'm always up for trying to figure out why things like that seem to break down. Thanks for watching/posting. -Pat

[@brandonduff364]

I used the white $2 ones from depot with green bottoms. Same ones you have. Working fast I had the pad come apart in the finish. Switched to a big foam brush with much better results.

[@TheRebelutionary1]

Pat, I plan on using your kitchen cabinet series to build for a rental property. One question I have is do you ever use wood glue. I have a Kreg jig, but thought I may need glue also.

[@Mitermikeswoodshop]

I usually use titebond glue when building any cabinets. i want to make sure it will take a tornado to destroy....lol. But make sure you don't make a mistake or it will be junk 20 min after glueup.

[@HomeEvolutionShow]

+REBELutionary1, Ok, here's the skinny on gluing for me. I use glue everywhere I can, and lots of it. However, the plywood I've been using comes "pre-finsihed" on both sides. So glue won't bond with it. but for example, when i attach the face frames, i glue them first. If i'm finishing my own plywood, like this video here, i only finish one side. then all other places where i'm attaching unfinished to unfinished get plenty of glue. The pocket holes are plenty strong. I've been building cabinets and built-ins in this manner for many years. No complaints. If you're still not comfortable, you can buy unfinished plywood, build the cabinets using glue whereever you can, and then finish the insides of the cabinets when you're done. Either way will work fine. The face is really what holds the cabinet together, and there is little sheer stress on the sides. Hope that helps. thanks for watching and taking the time to post. Good luck! and post pics to our facebook page if you feel so inclined! facebook.com/diyhomebuilt

[@HomeEvolutionShow]

+Miter Mike's Woodshop Excellent point. If you're interested you can see the response i penned to the other comment. Glue is a staple in ANY project. As much as you can :)

[@Sean-tc7jm]

Like so many here, I cannot get pre-finished plywood in my area so this has been a lifesaver. But I have an issue: No matter how carefull I am, I always get air bubbles in my finish. I've tried rollers, foam brushes, artifical and natural bristle brushes, the pads mentions, and even the manufacturer's pad from Varathane... Any suggestions from anyone?

[@LanceMcGrew]

Menards® SKU: 1251700 is 3/4” UV2S Birch with a Four Coat UV/ Ultra Violet cured epoxy acrylate finish. I would think more durable than air cured urethane?

[@HomeEvolutionShow]

That is most excellent! I did not know Menard's had that product. Thanks so much for posting. Yes, i would agree it's overall probably a better finish. I wonder about the actual plywood though. The plywood i get is from canada, true 3/4" ply. Lots of big box stores get their lumber from overseas and it's not all that great compared to the other. But that being said, for lots of DIYers this is a great option! thanks for posting -Pat

[@functionalguy7]

Very cool. Can you use this method with the plywood leaning against a wall?

[@HomeEvolutionShow]

absolutely. you have to keep mind of any drips or sags, but it works great. -Pat

[@threeque]

Nice.

[@HomeEvolutionShow]

+threeque thank you!

[@Exploitiv]

Can you Add in alcohol to a water base stain?

[@HomeEvolutionShow]

The better question is: Why would you want to?

[@JeronimoJGC]

Why not just do 2 coat of poly? What does the shellac do under the poly?

[@HomeEvolutionShow]

Shellac is a sealer, and builds up quickly. You can do several coats in a few minutes. 2 coats of poly, for me anyway, is not sufficient to stand up to years of use. So it's a combination of speed and protection. Thanks for watching. -Pat

[@freakontr]

I don't like the darken amber color that the shellac make the plywood. Do you have any suggestion? Thanks.

[@HomeEvolutionShow]

The shellac i use is clear, not amber. There are two kinds available at most home centers. Make sure you use the clear, de-waxed shellac and amber shouldn't be an issue. If you still don't like it, you can simply do multiple coats of water-based poly. I just like the shellac because it builds quickly.

[@ewijntuin]

what's the purpose of the shellac?

[@JeronimoJGC]

#DIYHomeBuilt explained that he uses it as a sealant, but its not strictly necessary, I guess you could go with an extra coat of Poly or just use multiple coats of shellac, the end result is very similar.

[@xandecampos2557]

The polyurethane varathane finish is “’ water based semi-gloss’’, “gloss”, “satin”, crystal clear, or has color in it? If it possible can you put the exactly description of it. (it feels a bit awkward, when you go buy things that we don’t buy often and they ask million question and the best I can answer is……..I DON’T KNOW”. Kkkkkkkk). I am sorry for my question,but i have to do it myself, because they dont care the finish plywood here. Thank you, for your time.

[@HomeEvolutionShow]

+Xande campos you can get any water-based satin-finish polyurethane. That should be sufficient description. you can use whatever gloss you want, but i use Satin, which is less shiny than semi-gloss. just make sure that the finish is water-based, not oil-based. Thanks. -Pat

[@xandecampos2557]

+DIYHomeBuilt ok. I got it. Thank you thank you very much.

[@andrewmorke]

Your info was awesome, but your audio was hard to hear.

[@jasalley]

More volume. Can't hear. Thanks.

[@HomeEvolutionShow]

Will do. I think i was standing too far away. Camera sucked at that point. Thanks! -Pat

[@alexisviame6929]

Good videos, but the over-explanation is a bit boring. 7 times you stated that it's WAX FREE shellac. Okay, so its wax free.................lets move on, just my 02. and i mean no disrespect at all, but i found myself skipping parts in fear that i'd hear that phrase one-more-time- we (your loyal audience) are adroit enough at life skills in general and woodworking in particular to only hear it once and comprehend.

[@HomeEvolutionShow]

Thanks so much for the feedback. You are right. I do over explain (bad habit) but i appreciate you calling my attention to it. Maybe you can make it a drinking game? lol. Thanks again!

[@johnpreston207]

30 secs in this bloke has said "uhm"8 times

[@HomeEvolutionShow]

Character flaw most likely :)

[@Nagpadawala]

MOST of the time you talk too much and say too little. Learn to do the opposite.