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[@TheJorgSacul]

I had to call for service about just this thing many years ago (2003) . The technician who came out invited me to watch every step of his process, and made sure that I understood that I could do this preventively in the future. For his hour of time he only charged me $35, which was pretty remarkable, considering he also gave me valuable training that has saved me quite a bit over the years. I was very sad when his company sold off his customer list when he retired. Now the company is one of the "advertises on the evening local news" HVAC companies, and they are in the business of selling new units at every opportunity. FORTUNATELY... I married into a family that has a relative who is co-owner of an HVAC company, and he's both young and honest. Your videos are top notch and very useful!

[@TheHippieatheart63]

The deserve repeat business when you need them, good for you. When I change my filter, Monthly, I pour a half a cup bleach down a T that I installed at the outlet of the air handler in my house to give me access to keep my condensate line clear. I don't wait until it's clogged causing problems. It's called preventive maintenance. Shop vac is a good way too without my T solution. Both Easy Peasy.

[@jorilea_jarrasept6583]

I use painters tape to seal the hose end to the drain pipe to suction. I also ziptie fine mesh screen over the drain pipe end to prevent insects from entering it.

[@williamd8886]

I have two units in the attic and I am a senior citizen. Today I bought a shop vac and there were some fine particles of yellow dust when I checked. Your video has convinced me that by doing this once a year will keep me from climbing ladders. Thank you!

[@diyhvacguy]

Yes it will!!

[@dgiacco]

Yes it will but do it about 3 times a year!! Also use algae tabs. I'm the president of my HOA here in SE Florida and I send out emails reminding all of my homeowners about this issue at the end of April.

[@williamd8886]

I live in Phoenix AZ and in August is the worst time of the year for us. Easy home project with the shop vac

[@conisims1728]

⁠@@dgiaccowhere do you put the algae tabs? I’m not even sure where my drain is!

[@michaelvittori8525]

A few years back my AC abruptly stopped working and I immediately called the AC repairman. He promptly showed up, connected a shopvac to my drain line, sucked out the debris, charged me $100 and left (all in ten minutes time). Needless to say, I purchased my own shopvac directly afterwords.

[@USMCAllTheWay]

Wow, $100 is a very fair price.

[@MrSupplementteen]

mine is cloged so im using the washer machine drain instead is that ok ?

[@ianpierre7020]

@@USMCAllTheWayWOW!!! Dude just yesterday wanted to charge me 320 to flush mine out😮. My condensate drains directly into my plumbing system that goes to my septic tank. As soon as he left, I bought a fitting and hooked a garden hose to flush it!!!

[@michaelsanchez6816]

ARS in Nashville charged me $70 to come out. Told it would be $450. I said naw I went out, got a shopvac

[@michaelvittori8525]

@@michaelsanchez6816 Smart move !!

[@dankelley9361]

Great information, a little maintenance on this condensate line can minimize a lot of downtime on your AC unit. They always get plugged up at the worst times!

[@reelivin8112]

Like the content, just retired from hvac business of 40 years. Only 1 suggestion I noticed over the years, I would not use vinegar in the condensate for 2 reasons. 1 - it will eat thru the glue joints if used quarterly 2 - it acts as a solvent or etching liquid with copper piping/solder joints. Great information for the general public, I commend you for it.

[@charlesterrizzi8311]

Vinegar cannot eat the pvc glue, neither can bleach. Hell even muriatic acid won’t touch it. These are silly myths. Condensate lines can remove 4-9 gallons of water per day in the green grass states especially. A pint of bleach a quarter won’t do much

[@jimbroburrito9374]

Wow what an honor to be commenting to an HVAC vet! I just started my apprenticeship and ive already learned so much but ik theres still much to grasp. One question, what would be the best alternative to vinegar in a scenario where you would need to flush the pipes?

[@19K7635]

I thought that was bleach that would eat the joints?

[@ralphpagan3371]

Never use bleach or vinegar

[@Jay-vj1km]

Thanks for your advice. So what would you recommend? Just use plain water?

[@stevenjakowski5585]

FYI, new systems have all aluminum evaporator coils. And if you use bleach (which is corrosive) you can damage it. This especially on electric air handlers because instead of pushing air through the evaporator coil on a gas furnace, the air is pulled through the evaporator coil. Which could potentially pull the bleach into the evaporator coil area. Best to use white vinegar only. Also you can disassemble your condensation pump for better cleaning. On this type of pump there's a clip on the side to remove the tray.

[@kooale]

You read my mind. Excellent comment friend, THANKS

[@Dbb27]

Thank you for a great video. I have 4 units and have started doing some of the cleaning myself. I really appreciate your saying not to put pressure through the lines as I was thinking why not do that instead of being on the receiving end and sucking it out. Definitely won’t do it. Really appreciate!

[@Ratlins9]

Thanks!, you’ve helped me so many times. My only regret is I don’t have an HVAC in town with your honesty.

[@diyhvacguy]

Thanks so much!! I truly appreciate followers like yourself. Where are you located? I’m always looking for trustworthy hvac contractors in different cities.

[@Ratlins9]

@@diyhvacguy Milford,Pennsylvania

[@CC-hv5hk]

Well go to the next town chep o.

[@irmafacundo7107]

Thank you just appreciate your honesty and making our HVAC more efficiently n helping my budget as a 75 year woman.thxs

[@johnduffy6546]

Excellent video that most people just plain don't know about. This is the kind of stuff that evrey home owner needs to know. Thank you for sharing

[@munozinni]

6:09 Hola 👋 señor Dave I’m glad you made this video cause one big problem that I noticed when I was working in remodeling was that the drain pan in the attic the pvc pipe got clogged with some debris and the drain pan started collecting the water that can’t drain out and then the pan started dripping onto the ceiling and then water damage and then chaos 😫I had to go in the attic remove all the wet insulation and work around the AC guys then cut out the sheet rock ceiling dry out all the joists and put new insulation and install new Sheetrock tape and bed texture and paint and “ just like nothing ever happened “👀😳I hope your followers will check this to avoid the problem of a huge problem…Gracias!!! for helping us with your knowledge I hope you have a great day and a great weekend…Saludos!!!👋😃👋

[@thisisyourcaptainspeaking2259]

This is a very big problem, it's caused by the condensate drain getting clogged. Configuration of the drain system and regular maintenance are crutial.

[@whochecksthis]

It is CRUCIAL that you have water safety switches in the pan and on the drain lines. Water damage is a huge mess.

[@peckerpeter2078]

Older units don’t have an easy access panel to condensation coils or the pan. Taking P-trap cap off using funnel best option on longer runs pouring a warm mixed bleach gallon of water and then running a shop vac at the other end is best. My home 28 years old at the time was clogged very bad. What you just showed in video most never clean ever, it’s a good idea to do yearly.. Along with cleaning dryer vents with shop vac especially if you have long runs. Can use shop vac at exhaust end, and blower or air nozzle from inside dryer side running at the same time . That gets rid of a lot of blockage. People don’t realize if you don’t clean out your dryer vents the lint that gets caught in there (mainly because they screwed it together , and the screws are sticking so far in the vent it catches the lint )is a major cause of fires Over time. A good indication is it’s taking way too long to dry your clothes then it was taken before.

[@cu0ngpitt]

i had a clogged condensate drain with a lot of bends for my drain pipe and the vacuum method only got some of the gunk out. it was still clogged and my drain pan continued to overflow. i got the idea of pouring some chlorine into the pan and it started foaming a lot. after letting it sit for about 15 min, i came back and there was lots of gunk floating in the pan. i continued to wait and the clog eventually cleared itself. i now use those tabs you recommend and hope to never have to deal with a clogged condensate drain again.

[@karenstein8261]

When I ran my drain line, I used electrical PVC “sweep” elbows so I would be able, if necessary, to push a fish tape or small snake through to clear any clogs. As an alternative, I could use a vacuum to pull a string through, then use the string to pull a foam “mouse” through. So far there hasn’t been any problems with my drain. Proper planning prevents problems.

[@Readerb86g]

I'm in Florida and had this issue about 3 years ago. Contractor came out and I saw the method first hand and no more than 3 months later, same issue. My AC is located with the pan about 4 feet above the ground level outside but the original install had the PVC pipe of about 4 feet horizontal before it angled down to the garage floor and then beneath the floor to the outside. Gravity had bowed the horizontal portion at least to the diameter of the pipe. I replaced the pipe just outside of the pan with a 90-degree elbow down, then some clear tubing to two 45's to horizontal. Then a tee with the ability to drain down as well as across to the original pipe near the floor. A valve beneath the tee, when open, causes the condensate to drop down from the tee and travel to a series of 5 gallon buckets in the garage. I get easily (during humid times) 50 gallons over about 2+ to 3 days. If I need to bug out for a few days I close the valve and that diverts the flow to the outside. A rare occasion. 750 gallons a month for plants and I have not had an issue since. Special case though since the pan elevation has to be high enough to allow for the water to drain by gravity into your buckets.

[@bethhayes1]

Yes! Here in FL. My son uses a shop vac to regularly suction out the condensate drain. Fixes it every time!

[@roamiblu1833]

My dad has a shop vac! Thanks for this!

[@derekholdt9707]

Suction is not a verb.

[@roamiblu1833]

@@derekholdt9707 It can be used as both.

[@jakemccoy]

@@derekholdt9707”Suction” can be a verb. Look it up.

[@neddoyle8304]

@@derekholdt9707 your comment does suc and so, we will all (shun) tion you. Stupid eh? That’s what you get for being correct.

[@NotSoSimple741]

Here in the Midwest where we have basements, our AC condensate tube runs to the sump basin and eventually gets pumped outside the house. And my gravity fed tube actually backed up a few years ago causing water to pool on the floor. So it's always a good idea to periodically inspect that tube for proper drainage.

[@gened9632]

There may be comments covering this, but I would also notify the uninitiated about their secondary line. It's rare that I run across someone who actually knows why that PVC is sticking out over their kitchen window. If they do proper maintenance on their primary drain, they'll never know what it's for. But once they see that dripping...

[@alonzomoncurii1730]

Following your instructions with placing bleach in drain worked immediately

[@esarlls3]

Here in Houston, the condenser is in the attic and the main condensation drain line runs into the top of a vent stack. You might hear it dripping in the plumbing inside the wall while it's running but it won't be visible outside. If the main line is obstructed, the overflow pan will start filling. This typically drains out under the eave. If you see water dripping from a pipe under the eave it's time to check for obstructions upstairs.

[@frankiec5570]

The condenser is in the attic!? Or the coil? I’ve never heard of a condenser being installed in an attic.

[@Chris-ik5ue]

​@@frankiec5570More than likely it's the condenser, not the compressor. Air handlers are often put up in attics. When placed in the attic there should be a main condensate line plus an auxiliary line that drips in an area that is noticeable (over a doorway is a good place because you will see it coming in or out of your house. The convenience of seeing the supplemental line dripping outweighs the aesthetics of a condensate line coming out of soffit). The second line is only there if the first line fails so water will only come out if the main condensate line has a problem. The secondary condensate line won't drip unless the main one has a problem so you don't have to worry about water always coming out. And always have an alarm on the pan that is hooked up to the air handler. The alarm float will turn the air handler off so if both lines are clogged there won't be water damage. I can't tell you how many houses I go in and see the top floor ceiling with a water stain from HVAC systems condensate lines clogging in the attic. One other thing I've seen that causes the secondary condensate line to clog is when people go in the attic and accidentally kick - spill attic insulation into the pan. If the main line gets clogged it drips into the pan. Once the pan fills up enough the attic insulation will float to the entrance of the secondary condensate line and clog it up. That's why an alarm with float is a solid way to protect yourself.

[@donjprice7397]

I'm w/you Frankie. The EVAPERATOR is in the attic to provide cooling to the interior; the condensing unit,(which contains the Compressor, condensing coil & other components) is placed outdoors . DJ-TX

[@USNveteran]

Thanks for the tip. I do the bleach thing every year both upstairs & downstairs a few ounces of bleach in a gallon of water in both drains. My reminder to do this is every year when I clean my electronic air cleaners I do this, never had a problem with my drains. FLY NAVY!!!

[@poolahpot]

what is a "few"??

[@USNveteran]

@@poolahpot I guess you are asking for my interpretation rather than asking google (a small number) so here's my take. One ounce is one, a couple is two, a few is three. Are you a lawyer or just planning to go to law school? FLY NAVY!!!

[@c50ge]

I agree with your method, straight bleach can be tough on the pump. By putting 1/2 gallon through the system treats the pump and all of the pipes

[@chuckbolik7060]

Hoo-yah !

[@frankiec5570]

The bleach vapors can wreck havoc on your evap coil. Would not recommended bleach. Any hvac manufacturer would say the same. You’re risking serious damage to the evap coil. This tech should know this. I question his actual real life experience

[@lgrantnelson2863]

Reminds me of a company where I did facility maintenance. Twice I got a call saying it was raining in the computer room. Both times I ascertained it was the HVAC unit. I grabbed a portable air bottle and blew the line out. I got four hours for twenty minutes of work. They finally got the HVAC guys to regularly clean the drain.

[@mikemcdermott1026]

I was a painter in florida hospital 40 yrs i worked weekends in the ER THE same room would get flooded every so often ,tv every thing soaked the air handler the next floor would shut down and dump out water, when they had power bumps

[@Jim-fe2xz]

When they built my house the hvac guy ran the drain down to the slab and cut it off flush with the outside wall before they stuccoed it. We were in the desert an it was usually dry but one August it was humid, the water backed up an shorted out the blower motor. I was able to measure carefully, chiseled out the stucco and found the pipe first try. A coupler & short piece of pipe plus a small piece of screen to keep the bugs out and all was good.

[@mattsanchez4893]

My condensate line drains into my washer drain inside my house so luckily I never have to worry about this, nor a messy puddle next to my outside unit.

[@kooale]

We're all super thrilled for you Matt, thanks for sharing! (not)

[@kenth.832]

Thank you the valuable info. I’ll be checking mine out soon. Thanks again!!

[@zatomb2574]

Great vid. My basement ac is different but the basics still apply. Here are some differences. The p trap is the worst area 4 me imcluding buildup of dead bugs and wasps, probably comimg in via the furmace vent that doesn't have a screen yet. I pour diluted bleach there into the transparent p trap. Evidently this is a common spot to clog since the installers put in access for a u shaped brush to clean out the trap. Mine drains into the basement drain probably because of.cold winters and high efficiency furnace condensate.

[@LunkerFishing]

My A/C techs years ago directed me to never use bleach as you described or even vinegar. They recommend using a shop vacuum at the drain outside and pour hot tap water in the P trap you showed in the video. I am in Central Florida and do that several times a year just to make sure, especially just before the hot season and once again in early August. I suck out nasty white goo after pouring over a gallon of how water through the system. I have done this for years and never have a problem with the drain becoming blocked.

[@kooale]

Another dude reading my mind, thanks for the advice friend.

[@MarieJackson-sp3be]

Thank you. I'm going to change my air filter right now.

[@LeftCoastConservative]

Very nice service recommendations, appreciate your feedback each year Thank you.

[@jeffreyplumber1975]

Great Vid! I already kinew this but its a reminder to do mine again . So Cal 90 percent of homes drain into a wye branch tail piece at a sink , then we dump secondary over a window. Im in plumbing but facinated with hvac as well. I use warm water and bleach

[@frankiec5570]

Don’t ever use bleach. It will destroy evap coils. Even the vapors will do damage.

[@princessalaina4589]

I always use a shop vac connrcted to my a/c discharge pipe and run it for about 10 minutes, once a month. I also add 8 oz of NuLine condensate drain cleaner to the air handler every two months.

[@willythehero88]

I got a new HVAC system installed approx. five years ago and the contractor specified that I pour a cup of bleach into the condensate drain upon each air filter change, which I do quarterly. Great video! Thanks.

[@markj9544]

I pour a cup of bleach in mine as well about once a month and then make sure I run it a few minutes later so it mixes with the water. Never a problem in five years.

[@scottmactavish9716]

That's ok, but bleach may cause issues with the PVC pipes and joints. My HVAC installer suggested white vinegar. It's just as acidic, and doesn't contain chlorine, the third letter in PVC. (Chloride)

[@jetah50]

odd. bleach usually corrodes the coils.

[@barrygrant2907]

Chlorine fumes can get to the coils and cause corrosion.

[@dgiacco]

Use algae tablets. Not BLEACH OR VINEGAR

[@scottmactavish9716]

4:59 "That's...impressive". In south Florida, it's "was ALL THAT in the pipes??" You can't comprehend how quickly "snot" builds up in HVAC drain lines.

[@Dbb27]

Lol exactly what I was thinking. I get big lumps like elephants snot coming out!

[@Ronaldl2350]

Thanks for another great tip. I use my shop vac to clean the drain on a regular basis.

[@hitekrednek66]

Great info sir. The a coil tab was something new to me and I like it. Gonna give that try. Great content my friend.

[@diyhvacguy]

Thanks sir! Thank you for your loyal support 👊🏼

[@jbussell9]

I’ve found it easier to link a water hose, stick the end in the outside fitting of the condensate line, unkink the hose for about 2 seconds, pull it out and let the suction to the work. So easy anyone can do it and everyone has a hose but not everyone has a shop vac. Just be careful not to use too much water or you’ll overflow the line.

[@chaplint70]

I use 1" hot tub bromine tablets and I add them straight to my condensate line via the cleanout. I add about one a year. My pipes are 100% free of mold or slime. I also use them on my toilets using Fluidmaster's flush and sparkle system so it doesn't damage the rubber in the tank. Have never had any problems and the water runs free and clear.

[@wayneG68]

Wow! I cannot tell you how many times we've had this issue and the cost involved in a downed AC. What I've done is pushed my hose pipe up the pvc pipe and flushed the pipe on the outside.

[@frankiec5570]

Why would you do this? You’re literally spraying water the opposite direction of the drain, and risking flooding the evap coil which would leak out into your blower and electrical components in the FAU, or leak out into your home/attic. Not a good idea to spray water up through the drain.

[@all4onejerzyd.344]

THANK YOU FOR POSTING THIS VIDEO, AND ALL YOUR OTHER VIDEOS THEY HELPED TREMENDOUSLY... I just wanted to say if I knew this 2 years ago it would have been so much easier for me, because my unit is in the attic and I have a tight attic but it we had a leak up there and we thought it was the attic fan or something else , anyway I started to have a leak upstairs from the unit in the attic to the upstairs was coming down from the upstairs hallway ceiling and ruining one of the walls so I call someone I know, he got up in the attic and he used a air gun or some type of pressure gun I don't know what it's called in the plumbing industry?? But he told me to go out back to where all the gun comes out through the condescending pipe I guess and once he blew that are gun into the PVC pipe or the pipe in the attic I should have had a mark which pipe it was, but needless to say a bunch of Gunk came out from that pipe out back, the league stopped immediately. So thank you for making this video and all the videos you make keep making the great content.. IF YOU OR ANYBODY READING THE COMMENTS KNOW WHAT THAT AIR OR PRESSURE GUN THAT GOES IN THE PVC PIPE AND GET THE GUNK OUT IF ANYONE KNOWS WHAT THAT'S CALLED PLEASE LET ME KNOW IN THE COMMENTS THANK YOU DIY HVAC GUY APPRECIATE ALL THE VIDEOS...

[@quarklan]

Great info, going to try those PurCool tablets this spring and summer.

[@petem5904]

I couldn't fully clear my condensate line by vacuuming, blowing, flushung etc. Always backed up and shut the system down. Came across a link to pour muriatic acid in the condensate line, let it sit for 30 minutes, then flush it out with hot water, cleared the line perfectly. I was told condensate from your ac is not only water but a mixture of pollution it's discharging called Sima. It's like a film similar to a snake skin that was shed.

[@FinickyGreek]

Priceless info. Thanks for the free education.

[@ljprep6250]

Just had the HVAC tuneup 4 months ago and I got a cup of water and some slime out of the drain pipe. Deep sigh... I was very unhappy half a dozen years ago when the A/C stopped working on a 113F day. And I was very happy the next day when I ran across an HVAC guy at my chiro's office and bought a $15 cap from him which fixed my unit.

[@markme4]

A/C tune up ? All new spark plugs ?

[@JRNipper]

@@markme4 Plugs were fine, it was the points that were shot😊

[@markme4]

@@JRNipper Mine had a cracked distributor cap 😆

[@meatball6930]

Only one cup? In Florida if your pipe is clogged it will fill his shop vac with water and 2 cups of slime on a new unit after a year. You have to suck the line out twice a year in Florida and you will fill half a five gallon bucket.

[@para1324]

A professionals advice. Thank you very much. Respect sent. 🇺🇸

[@rncine]

I could have used you last week. Here in Florida they put the units up in the attic and the condensers outside. 3 wks ago had my air guy check my units and change the filters, everything was fine. Then a week later my ceiling was leaking, seems this guy dislodged something in 1 of the units when changing the filter and caused a backup of the condensation overflowing in the pan and leaking into all the attic and ceiling! Now caused thousands of dollars of damage, he is fired.

[@RhettBrown]

Maybe somebody said it already, but a pool noodle really helps connect the vac to the drain line.

[@diyhvacguy]

Nice!! Maybe I’ll try that next time!

[@charlespaine987]

I did HVAC in an industrial facility (About 8 million sq feet or A/C floor space ,hundreds of units)every year we fought that battle. In machining areas oils and chemicals were troublesome. We were prohibited from using any of common evaporator tabs(air chemical contamination). Condensate pumps failed regularly .

[@munozinni]

9:17 Wow We might try that my wife keeps the house clean and smelling good with esencial oil diffuser 😊…see you in the next video 👋😃👋

[@anthonygrasso8620]

I used 2 shop vacs and I melted the plastic. One sucking and one blowing. Wasn’t working. My best approach that worked was a water hose. In Florida what came out was the same mineral deposits as what you would expect from a water heater. Which confused me. Cause I was like this is condensate not Florida hard water Great video…. For men. This will happen when you’re out of town and your lady calls you freaking out that water is all in the garage and you can’t immediately solve the problem.

[@MrRight-MAGA]

Good info brother. Going to subscribe to those filters.

[@vics945]

Ty for the info… be blessed.

[@brianzachary5618]

I like to block the vent pipe. Usually I use a piece of duct tape. Often the clog is upstream of the vent and the pipe at that point may remain clogged if the vent is open. Many units have a trap. I see the clog occur in the trap very often. The trap is upstream of the vent.

[@debk6161]

Thank you so much for helping people! 🏆

[@gahvno]

Out here on the West Coast we just put in an inexpensive condensation collector next to the HVAC unit inside that has a reservoir that collects the condensation and then when it reaches about an inch and a half deep it automatically activates the pump and it blows it out through a copper pipe into the garden. This is inexpensive and works a heck of a lot better than depending upon gravity.

[@danielholland4385]

Ive NEVER hear anyone say gravity isn’t dependable… Hahaha

[@Chris-ik5ue]

Been in residential construction for over 30 years. Never rely on a mechanical item (pumps) if a simpler way is available. And a 3/4" line should only have an issue a the trap that is easy to clear with brushes made for that or a coat hanger in a pinch. Filling the trap with bleach at the beginning of the cooling season or filling with hot water as mentioned by others. If a condensate pump has to be used it is highly recommended it come with a float plus shut off valve to turn the unit off and alarm the homeowner. And in the Mid-Atlantic area the main unit is in the basement where the condensate line goes to a floor drain. That line needs to be maintained as well.

[@shauste]

I just tried this and it worked for me. Nice tip!

[@diyhvacguy]

Awesome!!

[@marsoelflaco5722]

The right tools and a little know-how makes all the difference.✌🏾

[@henrymartin420]

All of which you don’t have lol have at it

[@dgapp76]

I use a cheap hand held Harbor Freight transfer pump with hose connected to a rubber wedge to seal to the PVC pipe. You can push air and pull air. Very effective without using high pressure compressed air. Many homes I come across have what I call a "plumbers special" under the sink where the condensate tees into the sink drain before the trap. Many plumbers use a tee fitting where the sink drain tailpipe extends down thru the tee, restricting the flow of AC condensate. The trick is to cut that tailpipe back where both the sink drain and condensate drain have full flow. Then I connect the condensate drain back with a rubber coupling (if it's rigid PVC) for easier future accessibility. Also, using a quarter turn ball valve at the evaporator with a tee right after enables you to clear the drain line without cutting the pipe in the future.

[@mrBDeye]

Shop Vac works

[@colettejaques2559]

His way is easy....I can do it.

[@MarkSmith-js2pu]

When 8 was an insurance adjuster, I’d get at least 1 claim a week from clogged ac lines. Many of the leaks started AFTER servicing.

[@Dajen_Tk]

I had this issue yesterday, house was hot all day. The drain line was clogged but using just the vinegar trick alone was enough to solve everything. Now my house is freezing! 😊🥶

[@joesmith7427]

I like an electric air cleaner and UV-C lights in the duct work. Change the tubs 1x per yr. Keep the outside coil clean. For the cost of service, it pays to use a good a/c man. And he can add freon if u need it( this is very important- too little and the unit will never shut off!! 😊 the outside unit should be in the shade not the sun!! Just stand in the sun for 10 minutes and see how hot is?? Real hot!! Thats why u hire the a/c man to do the work!

[@jorgeposadas1192]

Thankyou, very informative, now I got work to do.

[@Mr.Martini549]

Same!!!!

[@user-wi3yr2sg3t]

I had an issue related to this in 1988, the first time I ever lived in a house with A/C. I moved into the home in March 1987, ran the A/C all summer, but didn't really 'know' much about the condensate drain (i.e., I saw some water dripping out but did not know how much to expect). Unbeknownst to me, the drain was clogged. Later in the winter, when I was using the furnace, the condensate line froze, water backed up to the furnace (gas) and the air handler kept shutting off. An HVAC service call cost me a lot of money. The tech immediately knew the water had backed up because the drain was frozen. Thawed it with a hair dryer, poured bleach through the line, the built up gunk came out, etc.

[@BigDaddyCane777]

In the South, these are notorious for being clogged by dirt dauber wasps. The water will back up and overflow the pan. It can be a disaster for hardwood floors. Algae buildup is a pain too.

[@alozano2537]

that was AWESOME information!!! thank you

[@MaMa-qh4dy]

GREAT advice. Many thanks!!!

[@MatthewSmith-cp3hu]

i flush monthly even during the winter easier to just keep up the habit monthly i use gallon hot water and a few drops of dawn

[@thomasdarwin6174]

A plumber had to snake mine out last year and he recommended using Pine-Sol to maintain it. Check it every year. I had water all over my garage from the AC closet in a manner of minutes.

[@barrygrant2907]

I vacuum out the drain about twice a year here in S. FL. Nasty stuff always comes out.

[@loum.4377]

What a great channel You are an excellent teacher.

[@diyhvacguy]

Thank you so much

[@Lepek29]

Thanks a lot for these tips.

[@colettejaques2559]

Excellent video!! Im doing that now....thank you

[@gregorymark6014]

Live in Houston area. Main A/C drain(s) frequently goes to just above the trap of a bathroom sink(s). I use the shop vac there, its often a pain to pull the drain hose off of the plumbing. Outside is the secondary drain(s). If dripping, primary is clogged. Ideally, if the primary drain and secondary drain are clogged, there is a switch on the pan that senses the water filling the pan and tells the A/C not to turn on at all. Secondary note: I have seen where the trap in the bathroom gets clogged with hair and gunk. The A/C drain is working properly and is draining to the sink trap. With the trap clogged the condensate can't get through the trap and backs-up into the sink and eventually the sink overflows from the condensate. Code shouldn't allow this design in my opinion.

[@newmonengineering]

So the hvac drain is connected to the plumbing sink drain? I have never heard of that situation. I would think that would not be allowed at all to be honest. The hvac drain is a slow drip vs the sink drain is a large volume of water flushing out. That would be concerning to me as well. If there is no code against that there should be for sure!

[@gregorymark6014]

I replied to this, did it not "take?" Search "ac drain under sink" and you should see a video the shows the plumbing.

[@PhatBoyiee]

I had my ac guy tell me to pour cleaning vinegar down the pipe. Also to use compress air. On my pancake air compressor you can control the pressure so i set it to low.

[@crackerjack010101]

Bought a home where they’d used compressed air to blow a line out and blew out the vent in the attic, particulate and moisture all over the place, cost me a new blower motor and it randomly blew a fuse that “these never blow, that’s weird” sooo…I’d recommend against it. Blower motors in the units made these days have a computer on board and they run shy of $2k so not the old cheap fix it was at one time.

[@NathanHarrison7]

Great video. Thank you so much. Subscribed.

[@chrisknight3681]

In south Texas the condensate runs into the house plumbing. No outside unless the drain pan gets full then it flows out near the front door. So vacuum won’t work here.

[@keithlassiter]

Should install a "t" to allow access.

[@neilbivins5271]

Blow with shop vac from pan or as said above at tee.

[@psedog]

Thank you. I was thinking I've never seen that pipe on the exterior of my house. In my attic, it disappears, lol. I'll throw some solution in the T fitting and add a cap as neither of my units have caps.

[@chrisknight3681]

@@keithlassiter why?

[@JS-vj1jw]

Appreciate the video. My AC drainage drips into a hole that goes under a slab foundation. Would dropping these tablets help keeping that line clean? Deal with a back-up every May when we start the use the AC again. I've been told it's because of the build-up of condensation gunk when the AC units is not in use.

[@zacattack4029]

Great info thank you for your help.

[@cocoabiscuits]

very good information! Thank you

[@tbar1047]

I wish I had seen this video a couple of years ago, before it messed up the floor. I was seeing water on the floor, but I didn't know where it was coming from. By the time I figured it out, the damage was done.

[@ptech88]

Man your right. I cant tell you how many hvac contractors have told me they hate you.

[@frankiec5570]

Not me. He can keep recommending bleach into your drain pump. Can’t wait for the calls about pump failure or the evap coil being destroyed. He’s not even aware that the bleach vapors alone are enough to damage the coil. This is why every single manufacturer will say don’t use bleach on or near your system. Just like he recommends everybody installing a 5” Honeywell media cleaner. Those are great, when the system is designed for them. When they aren’t, which is the vast majority, those media cleaners create so much positive static pressure that blower motors and condenser fan motors burn out at an extremely high rate due to the added stress. Not to mention the compressors. Any real tech knows this.

[@ThomasKuhar]

Instead of a rag, you can use a small plastic funnel to accommodate different size dameters.

[@lowrypierce8054]

The Little Giant Condensate Pump owners manual does not recommend any kind of cleaning solution. So, I called the factory. The factory rep told me to never use bleach because it would damage the pump and motor seals. The only thing they would agree to was white vinegar and water. That's all I use to clean my pump. My pump, and 15ft. drain tube, is very clean and clear after 12 years. I have changed the CV-10 check valve two times. They can go bad.

[@markleblanc3447]

If you have the pump style, should you still suck out the condensate pipe from the furnace?

[@a.r.r.5626]

Brilliant...thank you very much!

[@Iamllumash]

Thanks Brother..Very helpful

[@piman2boek364]

The condensate drains into my main house drain and there is no way to put a vacuum pump on it. At the outlet from the coil I installed a shutoff valve followed by a tee. I live in a very humid climate and the drain goes for straight for at 4 to 6 feet before dropping down into the house drain. I added a shutoff valve at the exit to the AC unit and installed a tee. That way I can add liquid to the drain pipe without it getting into the AC unit. On a couple of worse case times I have had to use liquid Draino (not gel) and wait for awhile. Then I poured water down to flush out the Draino. A couple of times I have had to resort to air pressure pulses to clear the line (using a snake didn't work). As long as I pour bleach down the drain line once a month during the spring to fall the drain line doesn't get clogged. (lesson learned)

[@joemartino6976]

Good stuff. Thank you!

[@quintkemph973]

If your condensate drain plugs up your filter is bypassing air. Should have a space guard filter installed on your system. Dirt on the coil is dirt and dander and hair that your filter missed.

[@alexrebmann1253]

How to remove hard water build up in the drain line and which filter is better pleated or fiber? In AZ the water is very hard.

[@dean8395]

So for those that are able to access their air handler you should have a trap/access point installed in the drain line coming out of the air handler. Pour a 50/50 mixture of vinegar/water in once a month in hotter climates and once every couple months in more moderate climate. This will help the drain line to stay clean and not allow the build up of guck inside. If you are unable to do this then the shop vac is going to be your best option. Also never use those "special" filters and always get the one month throw away filters. The thicker filters "Choke" the air handler down making it a lot harder on the unit. Also make sure the coils of the units are kept clean, both the indoor and outdoor coils. Some will be able to do this on their own but I would suggest getting someone skilled in maintenance to clean them for you so you don't accidently bend the fins of your coil.

[@georgechilders4297]

How about this, make sure your filtration doesn’t allow any bypass, check the return duct for leakage, check the cabinet for bypass. Do this and you will never have another clog. After all, the condensate is pretty much distilled water. However, for the most part this is good homeowner info.

[@ctrichell]

Can I install a thermometer to my outside unit to communicate outside temperatures to my Lennox M30 thermostat

[@genemyersmyers6710]

All your videos are fantastic.

[@diyhvacguy]

Thank you so much 🙏🏻

[@curtislaketek2822]

I was told not to use bleach but vinegar. The bleach fumes may cause corrosion on the coils.

[@altennent156]

Thanks! Mine runs to my sump pump in the basement.

[@brucesimpson8579]

Same here.

[@jcmsu2002]

Thank you for this excellent video. Thank you thank you

[@ekummel]

Mine has the P-Trap...but the builder didn't install a real P-trap...they took a piece of PVC, softened it and bent it into a p-trap shape. And they didn't add any kind of cleanout either...that thing clogged because the bend narrowed the pipe to such an extent that nothing but clear water could pass...I ended up cutting the ptrap out and reinstalling it with hose-clamp rubber seals so I can clean it out whenever it needs.

[@goontownfc9199]

Question, I have 2 condensate lines that are exiting at roof/attic height, too high for a shop vac on the exterior. Can I use the shop vac on the lines from the furnace end where I would usually administer liquid? Thanks for the great vid.

[@liamazael]

Decent video. Is the bleach in the condensate pump safe for outdoor pets. Should I prime the trap after sucking the sludge out. I've seen some pretty damaged ceilings after customers watch videos like these that fail to inform the importance of priming a trap after clearing it. How many ceilings, carpets and hardwood floors do you think your viewers will damage after watching this?