Renogy 220W - Portable Solar Panel Review -

[@billsherk9198]

I’m going camping next week at Bass Lake California and I’ve been scouring your old videos just as a refresher. Your videos are always informative and basic so I can understand. Thanks for all you do.

[@DIYOutdoorLife]

Thank you, that's really nice to hear and I appreciate you watching the content!

[@leeinwis]

@@DIYOutdoorLife He was never heard from again , 😞.

[@DIYOutdoorLife]

@@leeinwis?

[@rustymac40]

I have used solar for years but still like watching videos. If you are new to solar...this guy is very informative. Great video Sir...this, indeed is a great panel for temporary solar. Big thumbs up.

[@DIYOutdoorLife]

Thank you for the kind words, I really appreciate you watching the channel!

[@stephenodell1417]

I have 2 of Renogy 220w panels and I love them. Charging all my Bluetti batteries, some 1 panel to use and 2 panels in series, for my higher wattage,voltage and amp batteries. Great solar panel ❤

[@DIYOutdoorLife]

The ability to switch easily from series to parallel is really nice!

[@SuperMikePT]

Ohhh may I get tips on connecting it to my 12 volt camper battery! I want to use a 10 ft extension. I have two 220 suitcases too! Unsure what accessories I need and how to set them up safely (series, parallel)

[@DIYOutdoorLife]

@@SuperMikePT I answered on the other thread

[@diannecampbell3257]

Brian! You have such a gift for delivering content easily for folks to understand! I do not currently have a solar system but am in the market and your videos have helped me understand this ‘new to me’ world. Would be grateful for a recommendation on a simple panel that can be left outdoors during all weather (I’m in Canada) that would keep my 12v deep cycle trailer battery topped up year round (trailer sitting on bare acreage for recreation)… that’s my first step. Next will be a ‘gizmo’ to charge some cell phones, iPad, etc. Thanks for all you contribute! Best videos around hands down!

[@DIYOutdoorLife]

Thank you, Dianne. I really appreciate the kind words and encouragement. It means a lot to know that people are getting something from the videos. I'm gonna post a link to kit that I recommend in your situation. It's waterproof for being left outside, set up with all the components you need, big enough to charge fast and keep up with your system, even in the future, and priced well. I also went with this brand because you can get it in Canada and they don't charge you 10 times as much. Let me know if this works, or you wanna start with something smaller. I think this is a good size. amzn.to/4eHtey4

[@edwardlooney4147]

You do a really good job explaining in an understandable way!

[@DIYOutdoorLife]

Thank you, I really appreciate you tuning into the channel!

[@jtoepke9763]

I am not sure if it’s your presentation or maybe I just understand you better then other ytubers But I learn more and better information from you Brian. Thank you for a great simple to understand review video

[@DIYOutdoorLife]

I appreciate that more than you know. It's very motivating to keep making more content, thank you!

[@jeffmatthews3798]

The first solar panels I bought were a suitcase style portable, and I still use it to chase that moving 10 square feet of sun hitting the ground around the camper. Well worth the investment.

[@DIYOutdoorLife]

I know that game very well, the slightest movement goes from 50 W to 80 W!! lol

[@Jeffrey.1978]

@@DIYOutdoorLife - dumb question, but are there any little gadgets you can use that help you position (tilt degree wise) your panels based on where the sun is?

[@DIYOutdoorLife]

@@Jeffrey.1978 there's this device- amzn.to/3xtTDih It's funny that you ask, I was just talking about this in a video I was recording today . I just hold a soda can or a Pringles can on top of the panel, you move it until the shadow disappears and you're good!

[@gandalfthemead3121]

Last week was our camp and concert weekend. We had a campsite and from there our concert venue was a couple miles away. I have a 1000w Goalzero, Maxx fan, C44 Truma fridge and a 100w hard solar panel. Before we left, I had 2 usb fans( I also use a big Anker 737 power bank) running and the Maxx fan running overnight. I ran the Goalzero down to 84%.I hooked up the DC to DC charger, unplugged the 100 w solar and drove to the location. We were there at 91% capacity. I hooked up the 220w Renogy and was pulling about 114w, maybe a little more and I tried to run the fridge(40w to 65w) at 34 degrees F. We went to bed with 92% and got up in the morning with 48%. It was a cat and mouse, but I finally gave up and put the Truma at 37 degrees F. After that the Renogy would keep up and was getting the Goalzero filled up. I couldn't have the anderson plug with the 100w solar panel and the 8 mm plug for the Renogy plugged in at the same time. It would charge at over 160w for a minute and then kick off the second solar panel. I may either get a second 220w Renogy or a 200 ah battery and run the trailer with the battery and the fridge with the Goalzero. I must say, using the solar panel worked way easier and I got more power than running the DC to DC connection with my Wife's new car running. Now I need to find a grommet to fit the 8 mm plug through from the back of the Hiker. I have everything in the back. Next trip is Montana de Oro SP - Islay Creek Campground. Sorry that we are West coast and cant make the meet up. I'll be testing 3 different kegs of mead this weekend. 1 Triple berry, 2 smoked coffee blossom, and 3 a Nutmeg, Cloves Cinnamon

[@DIYOutdoorLife]

Great job, it can definitely be a cat and mouse game at first. The Goal zero wants to swing of source of solar, you’ll have to convert the 8 mm and then combine the two panels and parallel to get it to work . 8mm can be difficult all together. I would get it 8MM to MC4 adapter and make your life easier. For entering into your galley, for instance, you can get a whole bunch of waterproof MC4 ports that go through the wall. amzn.to/3YcTJVS amzn.to/3ZT12Ui

[@siriusmac]

If you are still monitoring this post. I heard you say that on campers that say they have a solar ready port. Example my Scamp Trailer says it has a solar ready port on the battery box. I doubt that the MC4 cable is going to plug into that from the controller. Do you have any idea what adapter I would need? I purchased the Renology suitcase with the built in voyager charge controller. I am just not sure how to run this to the battery? Any thoughts?

[@DIYOutdoorLife]

Check this video out for starters The Easiest Solar Install | Solar Kits for RV's kzbin.info/www/bejne/d4DHmXypmMmYsJY

[@DIYOutdoorLife]

Your Renogy solar kit has an SAE plug, which is the same as your camper. You’ll just have to confirm the polarity. If you just have the MC4, make sure that you are plugged into the charge controller and you can use this amzn.to/4eNvdR2

[@siriusmac]

@@DIYOutdoorLife Thank you so much for your response. Your videos are really helpful. I appreciate you!

[@marcosw6893]

What size wire are you using? Can I use my present 12 gauge? Thanks!

[@DIYOutdoorLife]

12awg is fine. You could extend your extension cables quite a ways with 12awg and this panel. I usually make all of my own cables, and mostly work with 10 AWG. That’s overkill for this set up, and you could connect several in parallel and still use 10 AWG.

[@marcosw6893]

@ thanks!

[@74StarGazer]

I'm a camper and I have a single 24 volt lithium battery just to be able to power the outlets in my fifth wheel trailer for TV and phone charging overnight. I have my eye on a 30 amp 12/24 volt charge controller. Just wondering if this 220W solar panel would work for my needs. Thanks!

[@DIYOutdoorLife]

Yes, this would work fine. When you find a 24 V charge controller, we can match the specs but this will certainly work.

[@LucRoberge-q8l]

Thanks Bryan. Good one to consider when I’m ready to purchase one. Question: the solar ready sticker on the side of my R-Pod says 20 A. Do I have to stick to a 20A controller or can I go with a 30 or 40 A controller?

[@DIYOutdoorLife]

Don't go above 20a if using it. They are likely indicating that their wire size is 12 AWG or smaller. I would recommend not using it anyway, you could easily just get to the battery and do a better job. Then you could use whatever size you want.

[@SensibleNonsense1982]

Got any vids on when fuses should be added to RV/camper solar systems and when they should or should not be used? Thanks. You’re great at this.

[@DIYOutdoorLife]

As a general rule, only fuse the positive, but you can’t go wrong adding fuses. Your fuse should correspond with your wire size. For instance, I will use 10 AWG wire on a 20 amp charge controller and use a 30 amp fuse. You want the fuse to be able to blow if you have a problem, but not ever blow while things are functioning properly. If you check out my solar playlist, there’s several videos where I do fuses . Always put a fuse between your charge controller and your battery, that’s a must. For simple solar set ups, fusing the solar panel is not completely necessary, but not a bad idea. Again, fuse the wire size, don’t worry about the appliance. If the solar panels wire is 12 AWG, throw a 20 amp fuse on it. If it’s 14awg, use a 15. Maybe I’ll do a video all about fusing, thanks for the question

[@SensibleNonsense1982]

@@DIYOutdoorLife A video about fusing would be awesome! I appreciate your in-depth details in your videos. Thank you.

[@SensibleNonsense1982]

@@DIYOutdoorLife A video about fusing would be awesome! I appreciate your in-depth details in your videos. Thank you.

[@slomotrainwreck]

I already have the Renogy 400 watt suitcase panel, it's kind of heavy at 30+ pounds but it really puts out the wattage. In the future I'm going to get 2 of these Renogy 220 watt panels so that I have the option to connect up in parallel or series. Thanks for your video. 👍

[@DIYOutdoorLife]

I agree with you, having to separate 220s is a lot easier to move around and keep portable than one of the 400s. Thanks for watching!

[@SuperMikePT]

I can’t figure out if I need a different charge controller if connecting in series vs parallel. I have a voyager 20amp controller. I actually have two of them , one for each renogy 220 watt suitcase. I want to connect to my 12 v camper battery. What accessories do I need ????

[@DIYOutdoorLife]

@@SuperMikePT overall, this is very simple, but it seems complicated at first. When you connect in series, you add the voltage together . When you connect in parallel, voltage stays the same, you add the amps. Since Watts equals amps times volts, you add the watts together no matter what. Example 2 solar panels- 100 watts each - 20v, 5amp 20v x 5 amp = 100 watt panel. If you connect two in parallel- you have a 200w panel @ 20v x 10 amps (5+5) If you connect two in series- you have a 200 W panel @ 40v (20+20) x 5 amps You can always over panel a charge controller. The charge controller will tell you the voltage and the current. The voltage is how much it can accept without damage, this is important. The current is how much it can output for a charge. Let's say you have a Victron MPPT that is 100/20. It can accept 100 V of solar and can charge at 20 amps. It's OK to put 300 W of solar on this charger either way. If you connect three of them in parallel, 20v at 15 amps. Series would be 60v at 5 amps... You can never go over the voltage of the charge controller, that causes damage. if you go over current, it will just max out and charge as fast as it can. Make sure you understand what voltage your charge control can handle. Then look at the back of your solar and look at the open circuit voltage. if you were connecting in series, you have to add that voltage for every panel. It cannot be higher than the charge control can accept. I hope this helps, it's a really long response, but explains how the process goes. Keep me in the loop of how you make out.

[@DIYOutdoorLife]

If you tell me exactly what solar panels and charge controller you have, I can just tell you what to do... lol that will save time

[@SuperMikePT]

@@DIYOutdoorLife hi! I have TWO Renogy 220W Lightweight Portable Solar Suitcases with Waterproof 20A Charger Controller. My buddy gifted me a second set on top of mine. I have an AGM battery from batteries plus. My battery case has the sae plug for zamp. I use a reverse polarity dongle to plug my battery tender with sae plug into it now. I wasn’t sure if what I have can enable me to use both suitcases or if I need to purchase another controller. I ordered the following (hoping this will get me started and can return what don’t need) iGreely Solar Panel Connector Cable,10AWG SAE to Male & Female Adapter PV Extension Cable Wire for RV Solar Panel DC Power Battery Charger with SAE Polarity Reverse Adapter 3.1M/10Ft Black 30 amp fuses (2 total) iGreely SAE Plug to DC 5.5mm x 2.1mm Male Cables with SAE Polarity Reverse and DC 8mm Adapter for Automotive RV Solar Panel 14AWG 2ft/60cm (for my jackery) BougeRV 20 Feet 10AWG Solar Extension Cable with Female and Male Connector with Extra Pair of Connectors Solar Panel Adaptor Kit Tool (20FT Red + 20FT Black) SAE Battery Connector - iGreely 10 Gauge Wire SAE to O Ring Terminal, 2-Pin Quick Disconnect SAE Battery Cable Extension Wire for Solar Panel Automotive Marine Motorcycle Cars RV 10 AWG 2ft/60cm

[@midwestaromas]

Are the current prices ($3XX) on their website sale prices that will go back up? And when? Or are they “permanent sale” prices to encourage purchases? I just bought a ac60 this week for my business, & now I need a solar panel.

[@DIYOutdoorLife]

That's always tough to tell, they do bounce up-and-down. My guess is it will hover around here for a year and then drop. It might go out for a while between now and then.

[@Jeffrey.1978]

🤣😂 I literally spit my coffee out, all over my iPhone when I watched this: 10:21 - 10:35. You should make that one of your channel's video shorts and call it something like, "The 22v Limit Question - To plug it in or not to plug it in?"

[@DIYOutdoorLife]

Haha... send it 🤣

[@nritti_]

So can the glass folding 200 watt renogy panel charge a bluetti powerstation or do I need to buy a battery with the positive and negative? 🤔

[@DIYOutdoorLife]

You plug the MC4 into the adapter that came with your bluetti. If you don't have yours, they're very cheap on Amazon. It'll do a great job charging your power station .

[@nritti_]

@@DIYOutdoorLife ok thank you.

[@coreyreynolds3535]

Quick question. If you have a Goal Zero yeti or a jackery and I am using a renogy solar setup with a charge controller, do I need to cut out the solar panels charge controller since the power pack have them built in? Thanks

[@DIYOutdoorLife]

Yes, you cannot run through two charge controllers. For use with a PPS, cut right into the solar before it goes through the charge controller and it will work great.

[@RM0818]

Hybrid Portable Panel (HPP) - you heard it here first folks!!

[@DIYOutdoorLife]

Haha... we'll see if I get my royalties

[@Oblivionsurveyor]

I have two of these i hook up to a splitter/combiner with 10awg wire. Very Handy, The brand i have is a bit different but same design. Mine just has big nice carry handles for when its folded. The Y-connection is right at the Victron Solar controller, Two 20ft 10awg lines run from both panels. Some panels try and get you to combine the panels right at the panel location but if you do that the single wire running back to your controller will be overloaded. So to avoid a fire hazard its best to have your combiner right at the Solar controller and run your panel lines separately. Most people are impressed with my setup. FYI Furion solar ready do have like a 5-10amp charge controllers in the camper. Very Very basic and cheap, Never used mine.

[@DIYOutdoorLife]

That's always a great way to set things up. DC voltage drop is a real thing, you want to make sure that you're using the proper size wires or running duplicate wires like you did. 10 AWG will carry 30A without heating up, but it's always more efficient to add some more copper like you did! Thanks for tuning in !

[@Oblivionsurveyor]

@@DIYOutdoorLife I found the SAE connectors don't like 35amps, which is a setting on my generator charger. I used a Laser Heat sensor to identify any thermal issues. My setup is 100% custom 800ah lifePO4. setting 25 amps is fine so that is what i limit the current to for those connectors. I know they are not the best but they are good for quick setups and pick ups. The 10 awg wire is limited by the SAE connector for sure but i generator charge in parallel anyway. So that's 4x25amp=100amps, Not going to shake a stick at that. Don't worry each charger gets fed into a bus bar on its own isolated line.

[@michaelgeldert3638]

Love how that door swings right open. Must be camping with a ghost.

[@DIYOutdoorLife]

Haha... I noticed that ... scary!

[@matcharen]

well i was hoping to know the average voltage ranges during the day in summer cause i have a volt limit on my power supply 10:00 for those interested in similar this is a 173w panel, thats the max output efficiency

[@DIYOutdoorLife]

The operating voltage is around 20v. The open circuit voltage is 23.5 In the comment you mention wattage, did you mean maximum power output?

[@squaredropadventures]

I just purchased the Renogy 400W suitcase array and it came on Monday. Its HUGE but 400W of solar should charge my battery bank up in less than 3 hours with full sun light. Waiting on an SAE cable from Amazon as I didn't have one on hand but I'm excited to add more solar to the system as the 100W rooftop panel just wasn't doing it during cloudy days.

[@DIYOutdoorLife]

What size charge controller are you running? Are you combining the 400 with the rooftop or using a separate charge controller? Thank you for watching!

[@SteveWest-dc8vs]

Your videos are just a wealth of awesome information. Only downside - your thorough recommendations are hitting my bank account 😂 As a fellow Hiker owner I want to add a little solar panel backup for my Anker 1000 Solix. I’m a 2 or 3 night camper. My question- what is the difference between this Renogy 220w portable suitcase for $335 and the Renogy 200w portable panel for $211 (Amazon sale). I realize the 20 watt difference but anything internal that I should be aware of - just thinking at $211 vs $335 I might go with the 200w. Value your insight. Thanks so much.

[@DIYOutdoorLife]

Thank you, I appreciate you watching the channel! If you look closely at the spec sheet data on the two panels, they are completely different set ups. The 20 W difference isnt a big deal, the design and composition will determine which one is best for you. They fold up into different shapes and they have completely different weights. The 200 W one has glass and aluminum, this model has silicone and plastic. They are both great, no complaints with either . This model cost a little bit more because it’s designed to be extremely light and compact- portable. Hope this helps!

[@DIYOutdoorLife]

Looking on Amazon, there’s actually several choices. I’m not sure which 200 W one you were comparing it with. They also have a smaller 200 W that is lightweight, like this one, but it’s basically on a fold up plastic. If that’s the one you’re looking at, it’s compact as well, but not as durable as this . In this video, I talk about those even more portable style panels. Pros and cons to each. When I refer to this panel being a hybrid, best of both worlds.. This is a perfect example. The first example I gave you is one that’s glass and clunky, this last example is thin and flimsy, the one we reviewed in this video is right in the middle. This turned into a long, two-part response, let me try to sum it up in short- Renogy has several ~200 watt options in different shapes, weights, designs, and prices. Find The One that will be easiest for you to use that meets your budget the best. Thanks again.

[@SteveWest-dc8vs]

Thanks so much the detailed response. I rewatched your video and understand where this model fits within the available options. I’m ordering the 220w this weekend. Much appreciated!!

[@DIYOutdoorLife]

@@SteveWest-dc8vs good deal, I hope you’re able to use that promo code!

[@DIYOutdoorLife]

I believe it works on any of the panels that we discussed BTW

[@diannecampbell3257]

Thanks so much for your help! I was thinking something small that already had a built in controller and could be left unattended on the property year round. Is there such a thing? Lol

[@DIYOutdoorLife]

Hi Dianne- heres my response on your other comment ----- Heres a link to kit that I recommend in your situation. It's waterproof for being left outside, set up with all the components you need, big enough to charge fast and keep up with your system, even in the future, and priced well. I also went with this brand because you can get it in Canada and they don't charge you 10 times as much. Let me know if this works, or you wanna start with something smaller. I think this is a good size. amzn.to/4eHtey4

[@diannecampbell3257]

Thanks so much for all your help! I wasn’t sure I needed this large a system to just charge that 12v battery because I also eventually want to get a portable charging system like the Jackery 1000v2😊

[@diannecampbell3257]

Keep the content coming Brian … you are truely helping tons of folks understand stuff that would otherwise be pretty complicated😂

[@DIYOutdoorLife]

@@diannecampbell3257​​⁠​⁠.​​200 W is still pretty modest, but it's enough to charge even when conditions aren't perfect. The nice part about it is you can use the same system to charge a portable power station. if you end up getting a power station, let me know and I'll show you how to do it

[@diannecampbell3257]

Thanks again Brian! I will take you up on your generous offer! Beyond an incredible wealth of info you are and such a great help to humanity! Great job!

[@chrisb6866]

So if a small trailer already has a 200 watt solar system on if from the factory, and you plug this one to the same battery, the two independent systems won't fight over (so to speak) which one is charging the battery? The two charge controllers talk to each other and get along? lol

[@DIYOutdoorLife]

That is correct. Sometimes we do systems that have as many as five solar charge controllers! I have two on my camper right now, highly recommended.

[@chrisb6866]

@@DIYOutdoorLife Thank you. I am buying this 220 watt system today!. :)

[@major__kong]

I would say it isn't too much of a concern if you are using charge controllers from the same manufacturer. If one is putting out higher voltage than the other, like you might get from different products from different manufacturers, the one putting out lower voltage may not feed the system any current. Why? Because that's how higher and lower voltages work. It gets complicated because the wire runs will drop voltage, too, depending on how much current is in them. Because of the voltage drop over wires, a charge controller should put out at least some current. If the controllers are "talking to each other", it's through the voltages they see at their respective outputs. I had a two-controller setup going this past weekend in my driveway to test a new setup. One set was much further away from the battery than the other. Both sets of panels were cranking out 150W. I was using the Victron 75/15 MPPT solar charge controller for both. YMMV. Edit: I would expect each charge controller, at least the good ones, to increase their output voltage to achieve whatever power it thinks it needs to output. So I don't think you'll ever see the high-low voltage problem. However, there could be some weird dynamics where they are "fighting" each other in increasing battles of voltage. I don't think that would happen since resistance in the system acts like a damper, and the charge controllers, at least the good ones, tend to have smart algorithms.

[@J4Julz]

When I bought my Bluetti AC200Max, they included a 200W briefcase style portable panel. It is handy, and doesn't take up a lot of space, but I can see from this video, that it is kind of lacking in durability features, as well as not having handles, nor kickstands. Those look like great features to have on a portable, excuse me, Hybrid Panel! One more add-on to the collection of solar fun- always good to have some extra power!

[@DIYOutdoorLife]

Be careful, solar panels become addictive... lol pretty soon you have to start doing modifications to carry them all

[@J4Julz]

Hah, or have a yard sale to move some of the excess! 😏

[@9rows]

7:49 Imagine a world where the solar panel and portable power station industries finally agree on a universal connector standard! I pray for that day!

[@DIYOutdoorLife]

Hahaha... don't hold your breath

[@Oblivionsurveyor]

I am combining MCT to SAE as i did not feel like making custom cables. I was unable to find a cable that offered a MCT connection in the length and size i wanted. From what i gather SAE is good for pack up and go setups, nothing permanent because the connections can corrode. I did Find the SAE 10awg connector could handle 25 amps fine, we are talking just connectors not wire length. I have four SAE connectors setup to charge from my generator with four chargers in parallel when i have no sun. The chargers can be set from 15/25/35 amps, The 35 amp setting was creating too much heat on one of the connectors so i fast charge them at 25ax4=100amps. 800ah LifePO4 Battery's, I use a laser heat sensor to detect thermal issues, HIGHLY recommended.

[@major__kong]

In my early solar experiments years ago, I was using power poles. Why? I make my own cables, and I can never remember which MC4 connector is positive and which is negative. With powerpoles, the minute you identify the + output, you can crimp a red powerpole on it. These were panels that came with ring terminals. And then when I was installing an MC4 cable gland, I had to verify, by crawling in the camper, which connector was + and which - before making an extension cord.

[@DIYOutdoorLife]

@@major__kong power poles are the way to go!

[@major__kong]

@@DIYOutdoorLife For small arrays. Once you get above 48V, it gets painful. The powerpole is open at the back, so you can imagine voltage leaking there if it gets wet. When it's not plugged in, it's easy to touch the front. The MC4 connector is probably more appropriate for safety above 48V.

[@twloughlin]

I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but on his channel Jasonoid, when he reviewed the 400W version of this solar panel, used the term "hybrid." His review was released April 12th. He did not, however, mention anything about trademarking the term 😄I continue to struggle with the idea of buying something like this as opposed to buying two 100W flexible panels, hooking them up in series, and just propping them up with rocks or logs or something. The relatively new Arch panels from BougeRV look well suited for this kind of application (3.8 lbs.), as do the ShadeStoppers. But for now I have enough solar for my needs; can't just throw bucks at every sexy solar panel that passes by.

[@DIYOutdoorLife]

I said it three years ago in this video!!! LoL I'll have my lawyers call Jason. RV Solar 101 : Everything a Beginner Needs to Know ! kzbin.info/www/bejne/qXiZk3ioeZiNfKM

[@DIYOutdoorLife]

Propping on logs or rocks is a good idea, I'm always surprised how fast you can kill grass when you lay the panels flat. Every year around the solstice, I just start laying my panels flat on the ground. When it's time to leave, like this morning, burn marks all over the ground like a UFO landed... lol

[@twloughlin]

@@DIYOutdoorLife Ya got me there, pal! 🤣

[@twloughlin]

@@DIYOutdoorLife Funny you should mention this. I just took off two 100W flexible panels from my shed roof that I've had permanently installed up there for about three years now because I noticed this spring they didn't seem to be producing power. I checked them with a voltmeter and zero watts. So I laid them on the grass thinking they wouldn't burn the grass. Wrong - two burn marks. It begs the question: why would two panels producing zero watts still leave a burn mark on the grass? And while I'm at it, do you know of any way to recycle solar panels?

[@DIYOutdoorLife]

@@twloughlin oh boy, hot without a output is not a good thing... lol I'm tempted to pin this comment because you encountered something that I've seen many many times. When you leave the flexible panels out, they go bad quickly. I don't think this information is readily disseminated. As for recycling, don't get me going, this thread will go on forever ... Solar panels are easy to recycle, they separate the materials and they can actually harvest a lot of valuable raw items from them. The industry is so far behind here. my county transfer station has a place that will take them for free. Some solar installers will take them as well. If you do a little homework, there's some companies that will pay you for them. , It is annoying, and unnecessarily cumbersome.... I hope it gets better

[@CalMUK91]

The only issue you have with Renogy is that their customer service is shocking. My Renogy One M1 died and I couldn't prove proof of purchase they just refused to replace or repair the panel.

[@DIYOutdoorLife]

I’ve dealt with this in the past as well, I’ve had mixed results with them. By and large, I’ve been extremely disappointed with the customer support of most solar and battery products. Companies like battle born and Victron do it well, but you sure pay for it.

[@bryanbryanmccoy7094]

Nice shirt!!

[@DIYOutdoorLife]

You know it, I'm getting excited!

[@major__kong]

I have to catch up on your videos. Work has kept me very busy. And I've been ignoring my other channel, too, with project videos. Those small panels on the top of the camper, I would consider those to be a glorified battery maintainer. At 100W, the largest battery it will charge in 1 day is a 50Ah battery. And that's if everything is perfect. I carry at least 100Ah and sometimes 200Ah. I prefer the soft suitcase/briefcase panels because they're thinner. Space is always at a premium. I can find more places to pack them. By the way, I have one more little electric project for my camper, then I'm ready to cut a video. Or maybe I'll cut it this weekend and do that as a follow-up. It will have my solar setup in it. When it gets posted, the channel is Little Miami Fab.

[@DIYOutdoorLife]

I'm glad to hear you're putting out more electrical content, it'll be fun to tune in! Good job with the channel. The 100 CIGS as a fixed panel has been doing a great job. I've been banking 300 to 400wh a day with it. It's not always oriented perfectly, based on my campsite setup, but that's more WH than I use in an average day. On days that I use the inverter or higher current/longer duration DC items at camp, deploying some portable panels keeps me topped. as you know, one of the goals when building your system is autonomy time, I'm up to ~7 to 10 days without any solar/average loads... makes everything else easy. Good to hear from you and glad to hear you're making content, thank you as always !

[@neverwin2518]

It's Solar-palooza!

[@DIYOutdoorLife]

Gotta talk about solar near the solstice!

[@CC_Marauder]

Keep em coming. Do you have a suggested controller to connect my EcoFlow 110w panel to my Go Power! solar port ready 2023 Forest River Flagstaff T12RBST for when we're in a camping spot that blocks our OEM 100w glass rooftop solar panel?

[@DIYOutdoorLife]

If you can store/use in a waterproof location, a MPPT is the way to go. If you charge control is gonna be left outside and might get rained on, you're better off going with a waterproof PWM. Anything between 10 and 20 amp will work for your situation . Let me know exactly how you want to install it and I can see if I can point you in the right direction .

[@CC_Marauder]

I preface with we're weekend warrior campers on the dry California Central Coast. We avoid camping in the rain like the plague. We'll cancel reservation to avoid camping in the rain. Not our thing, anymore. Looking for your BRAND name suggestions for: 1) Connect Ecoflow 110w folding solar panels with OEM MC4 connectors (that we can extend with our MC4 extensions) to a 10amp controller (either type will suffice, moderate price and expected longevity preferred). Your suggested/trusted brand name and model # is the request. 2) A connecting cable BRAND NAME and model # to connect the suggested controller to our TT via its OEM Go Solar! solar port. Sorry if I'm not using the correct vernacular or putting things in linear verbiage. This is why I haven't resolved this issue in over a year of ownership. 🤷🏽‍♂️

[@DIYOutdoorLife]

@@CC_Marauder this controller is dynamite, keep it dry though amzn.to/4bg7t5H

[@DIYOutdoorLife]

@@CC_Marauder this is a good wire that you could use for your solar on the side. You're going to have to do a little bit to set it up properly though. Unfortunately, they don't make the perfect plug for this affordably . You're going to want to check the polarity on your camp SAE, use the proper side of this cord, cut the other end off and wire into your MPPT. If you need help, let me know, happy to provide assistance amzn.to/3S0laiz

[@CC_Marauder]

You are indeed very generous with your efforts to assist. I'm just not DIY savvy enough to get all of this to see it through to fruition. Thats entirely on me. Thanks again for your personalized effort(s).

[@sattvrip]

Most of foldable SP do not have bypass diodes inside the parallel strings of solar modules, so when you connect several of such pannels in series and you have shade on one of the module it becomes the load for the whole array in quickly gets overheated and burned

[@DIYOutdoorLife]

That's true of really cheap stuff. The principal is true across-the-board though. If you connect in series and have partial shading, you're going to see a major performance drop. Parallel is superior in any application where partial shading might occur. As for loading out a panel to the point where it melts, you're only gonna find that in a panel completely free of bypass diode.

[@stevemueller7376]

Great info thanks

[@DIYOutdoorLife]

Appreciate it, thanks for watching the channel!