The ONE GAME-CHANGING Slicer SETTING... (Huge 3D Print Quality BOOST)

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👉🏻 In this video I am revealing one Orca Slicer setting that will completely change how much better your 3D prints will look. I tested with PLA and ABS filaments and this one setting is the thing you 100% should give a try on your 3D printer. Make sure you don't skip the part where I talk about other factors that can affect the layer consistency of your prints. If your extruder produces inconsistent extrusion it is a mechanical issue that can't be solved in the slicer.
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📋 RELATED ITEMS TO THE VIDEO (Affiliate):
3D printers:
- Bambu Lab X1C shrsl.com/480se
- Bambu Lab P1S shrsl.com/480sa
- Bambu Lab A1 shrsl.com/4dob8
- QIDI Q1 Pro shrsl.com/4h3av
- Flashforge A5M Pro shrsl.com/4h4xw
Testing equipment:
- Digital Calipers s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_Dlt...
- Digital Dial indicator s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_Dkw...
- Digital Micrometer s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_Deb...
📢 OTHER MENTIONED THINGS:
- Cooling Test Print www.printables.com/model/5805...
- Used thumbnail Voron test print github.com/VoronDesign/Voron-...
- Snaplock boxes www.printables.com/model/805599
- Skyhook www.printables.com/model/1631...
- USB cable holders www.printables.com/model/6952...
🕗 TIMESTAMPS:
00:00 - Results preview
00:38 - Two very important factors
02:28 - The GAME CHANGING Slicer Setting
03:16 - Dual-drive gear extruder RESULTS
03:55 - Single-drive gear extruder RESULTS
04:37 - PLA overhang performance
05:36 - ABS/ASA results
06:20 - 75% of people are missing out on this
06:44 - Easily make quick comparison prints and share them
07:04 - Have more incredible settings?
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[@PrintingPerspective]

*TO CLARIFY:* What makes this huge boost to the print quality is printing the OUTER WALL before the adjacent INNER WALL is printed. That is why I called the Inner/Outer/Inner wall ordering option "printing outer wall first" as it does exactly that. Hopefully, that clarifies things. I know it can be quite confusing. *So TLDR:* Inner/Outer = IW first Outer/Inner = OW first Inner/Outer/Inner = OW first

[@robmasonjr67]

Why does the Ankermake Studio slicer (based on PrusaSlicer) not have this setting? I can't find it anywhere.

[@GriffonWalker]

Is there a cura setting for that?

[@youtubehandlesux]

Isn't this default in Orca? Never printed with inner walls first again after testing it out.

[@petercallison5765]

@@youtubehandlesux My default settings are inner outer, selecting a different printer may change that.

[@ftnavy123]

how does this effect part accuracy?

[@imacmill]

This is the first video whose title contains the tired, old "GAME-CHANGER" claim that actually turned out to be a game-changer for me. Printing the outside walls first made a MASSIVE difference in the quality of my prints. I've been living with semi-OK prints for literally 3 years...can't believe I've gone this long without knowing about this setting. Why isn't it on by default in all slicers? Edit to add, after another print: I seriously can't believe the difference this made. My print looks almost injection-molded, for cryin' out loud! And I'm running it on my trusty old Ender-3 V2. Unbelievable!! Thanks for this tip!

[@hhaste]

I'm brand new to 3D printing, is this only applicable to people making their own files or is this also a setting that can be changed when printing pre-made, downloaded files? Going to be getting my first 3D printer soon, just wondering about some things I don't know, yet.

[@imacmill]

@@hhaste It can be used for any file, ones you make or ones other people make.

[@skywardsoul1178]

​@@hhasteJust don't use it for parts with steep overhangs basically.

[@Karavusk]

I discovered this a few years ago. I realized that the quality is massively improved and there is pretty much no downside. I am really surprised this isn't standard.

[@PrintingPerspective]

Nice, I wonder that myself too because so far I don't see any real downsides. There can be some caveats with it, maybe that is why is not a default, so that beginners would less often run into problems.

[@AckzaTV]

lolu still didnt reveal what it is in this comment hah. im waiting to be sold an ebook

[@daliasprints9798]

Cura made it default for a while but then reverted it, because they have lots of bad defaults that cause missing extrusion after unretract, especially on bowden printers, and they want to hide that on inner perimeter rather than showing it on outer. Despite it harming part integrity either way. 🤦

[@donguyengiac5046]

@@PrintingPerspective downside is the seam is on the outside right after a long retraction for a layer change, so the nozzle pressure sometimes might be too low and the seam may look worse

[@Dustmuffins]

@@donguyengiac5046 Maybe this can be avoided by printing infill first?

[@KolMan2000]

One likely reason is that curling and warping are caused by outer layers not having sufficient time to cool combined with the contraction of inner layers as they cool pull in on the outer filament. So by printing an outer wall first, you’re giving the outer layer the most time to cool so that it can be already solidified by the time the printer gets around to it. I legitimately never thought of it like that.

[@BrunenG_YT]

Finally, I've been printing OW first for 5 years now, saves a lot of time on postprocessing too

[@PrintingPerspective]

It is crazy for me that such an amazing setting is so little known, hopefully, more people will be aware of it now. :)

[@marty4286]

I started using IW/OW/IW because of the scarf joint feature and it was surprising to me how much better everything became, but I couldn't put two and two together on how that could be so until your video, thanks!

[@sz12359]

It's wall printing order.

[@daliasprints9798]

I've been trying to tell folks outer perimeters first is better for years but everybody looks at me like I'm crazy...

[@PrintingPerspective]

Haha! When you said it I wrote down the idea to test as it sounded interesting, but I was skeptical about it. Unfortunately it took 1 year till I got to test it and it completely changed my mind. I guess later than never is better, thanks for the great suggestion. :) Hopefully now way more people will be aware of it!

[@kimmotoivanen]

We've been taught for years that outer first makes 💩 overhangs 🙂 Maybe slowing down on overhangs cures that 🤔

[@daliasprints9798]

@@kimmotoivanen Not having 2015-era weakass cooling fixes that. 😁

[@kimmotoivanen]

@@daliasprints9798 maybe that too, though 2024 also has not so cool part coolings ;)

[@mikecrane2782]

Well done for showing this in your prints, I kept switching between Orca and Bambu and got better results, but never realised what settings I changed as I discarded them. You've jogged the memory cells thank you :)

[@802Garage]

I had great results with these settings as well, though admittedly with limited testing. Most of the improvements make sense. I realized one reason the overhangs being as good or even improving may make sense while watching for video. First of all, the filament has more room to expand and sit on top of the previous layer, since it won't hit the inner wall and then have to squish outward over the side, which could cause a drooping overhang. Sure, you may think because clinging to the inner wall would keep the filament from falling outward that it would help, but the volume of filament extruded all has to go somewhere, so outward is the remaining direction if the inner wall is present. The other reason I think it may help is that not having an inner wall means the outer wall extrusion can be cooled from both sides, it even has a little channel of air flowing past it, and it isn't being kept warm by the previously printed inner wall. I would suspect the added cooling is a much larger factor than residual heat from an inner wall, but the amount the latter varies would depend on the print. I wonder how much outer wall appearance would vary with line width as well, especially with overhangs. Also counterintuitive, but wider layer widths can actually give better overhangs because it insets the outer wall more on the previous layer, meaning the center of the nozzle is less in free air when extruding. Anyways, very interesting tests and results! I do think I saw a slight improvement in your tests with the precise wall setting on, as especially the lower ridge on your far right test print was smoother. Hard to say not holding it though. A combo of outer wall first, precise wall, good cooling, and perhaps even wider than nozzle width layers could be the ultimate combo. Beyond that, precise extrusion is so important, as you repeatedly mentioned. This seems to be the Achilles heel of the K1 series, for example. Once you get extrusion dialed in, testing all of the other settings reveals a lot.

[@PrintingPerspective]

Yeah, there can be so many things why we can see this happening that I just gave up on trying to fully understand why. The more I dive into 3D printing and how things affect stuff the more I am starting to see that assumptions why are quite often not correct. The K1 series extruder is armchair engineering at its finest lol, as the drive gears are only supported from one side, with the filament inside, those gears bend out of square and flop and wobble even more, a truly bad design. :/

[@802Garage]

@@PrintingPerspective The support on one side only hurts my soul. It would probably perform better as a single gear extruder with even an idler that wasn't supported on one side, hahaha. It's very true that trying to analyze and understand every aspect of printing is a huge ask for one person. That's why practical testing and experience are very important, as well as being willing to question what you thought you knew. A ton of incorrect assumptions and conclusions out there, like you said.

[@AlexanderSmith600]

Which extruder would be the perfect upgrade for the K1? Mine is 1200 hours in with no problems but always looking to improve performance and reliability as I hope to keep it for as long as possible.

[@802Garage]

@@AlexanderSmith600 It's not like the extruder doesn't work, it's when you start to get really picky about ringing and layer lines it will show up most. Not sure what the best upgrade is, but the channel NeedItMakeIt is going to be doing a lot of testing with the Ender 3 V3 series which uses a similar extruder and has similar issues.

[@paulgrindley8192]

I just recently got into 3D printing and switched to this method after watching your video. Made all the difference in the world. My prints look so much better. Thanks!!!

[@AustinVojta]

You earned a new subscriber with this one. Super fascinating idea, to-the-point video, and a good comparison of results. Well done, keep it up! Excited to check out the other videos on your channel and see what else you have in store in the future. Going to give I/O/I walls a shot on my printer right now!

[@hapsti]

this may be the final piece to my layer consistency journey, I avoided this bc of the stigma against it for "bad overhangs", thank you!

[@daliasprints9798]

Overhangs are actually better IME with outer first, at least as long aa you have proper cooling. When there's very little material below to bond to, the surface tension effects instead pull the outer to the inner perimeter if it's already there and make it go in the wrong place then curl because the extruded length is wrong for where it goes.

[@austinvickymoore3656]

Good informative video! Thanks ill have to play around with the setting for sure! My first printer arrives tomorrow!!!

[@Litl_Skitl]

A while ago, I've also started printing infill before walls (infill-outer-inner), so that any points from bad pressure advance get kinda ironed flat by the head moving by. Might be cool to try as well. Awesome stuff as always!

[@terracoon9882]

2:26 Thank you so much for this small piece of information, I already knew printing outer walls first improves quality, but this problem you are discussing here is also super important, while almost nobody seems to know about it.

[@olafmarzocchi6194]

I started using Cura two years ago for the ultimaker 2+ connect I borrow from time to time and it had outer perimeters first by default. I was amazed by the quality and dimensional accuracy

[@tinkertv]

Awesome to see the results really looking better and better! Congrats! 👌

[@Becvar80]

I am currently printing some printer feet in TPU. The first two were printed with my old settings, second two are printing with In/Out/In, and I can already see a clear difference in quality.

[@TripasGarage]

Great video! I have also been using this setting for a little while now and it’s great. Thanks for the video.

[@kolt9307]

Thankyou for this, I really mean it. I have been having issues with My K1 Max for months, tried everything. I used your suggested wall settings and the 2 mm thing and pow! My print layer lines have finally gone

[@KilianGosewisch]

same! for me when printing really fast, its even better for cooling and overhangs. Another thing I miss and am very confused by, slow down inner walls first/only. that way you will get a consistent surface finish even when slowing down for minimum layer time.

[@BrianVoelker]

Wow im going to try this now. It makes a lot of sense after watching your video. Thanks!

[@PrintingPerspective]

Hopefully it will lead to improvements like I saw on my prints, now I set it to every profile I have ;D

[@BrianVoelker]

@@PrintingPerspective I wonder why it's not drfault

[@TheCreat]

Just a note on the "prrecise wall", and why it didn't change much: it's intended purpose is to improve dimensional accuracy, which is the aspect I usually care most about. It's nice if it looks pretty, but I most of all want it to work and fit correctly. For that precise wall does exactly what it's supposed to, at least for me. Much less deviation.

[@MiG82au]

Precise wall got me from hard interference at 0.10 mm clearance in the Orca tolerance test to totally free fit at 0.1 mm and light interference at 0.05 mm clearance.

[@kimmotoivanen]

If outer wall is printed in "free space", precise wall should not matter much. It would make outer shell weaker...

[@TheCreat]

@@kimmotoivanen Oh yes, without a pre-existing neighboring inner wall, it should have no or negligible effect. I haven't exactly A/B tested that in great detail though.

[@bruceyoung1343]

VERY INTERESTING. ALWAYS LOOKING ON HOW TO IMPROVE PRINTS. I’ll have to try ORCA SLICER

[@cubedude76]

I never would have guessed wow thanks for sharing!

[@ThereIsNoRoot]

I'm testing this now and hoping for great improvements to dimensional accuracy for my Clickfinity Refined plates. One note: the description of the travel distance threshold is not clear at all, and since it's the most replayed part of the video I'm not the only one. I read around and from what I can tell from your video is that you have a travel distance threshold of 1mm and a Z hop type of Spiral. This causes Z-height movements when moving to another wall > 1mm away, slowing your print times (and probably heating up the filament more during that S hop time, causing dimensional issues). You recommend increasing the default to something like 2mm which reduced your print times. But this is only true because you have a Spiral Z hop type vs Slope, which combines Z movements with XY movements to reduce stringing. For me-Bambu Labs P1S w/0.6mm E3D ObXidian nozzle-the default value (under Printer Settings » Extruder » Retraction » Travel distance threshold) was 3mm with a Z Hop Type of Auto (aka Slope), so this is not applicable to me. Z Hop defines how the print head combines Z movements alongside XY movements. Keep in mind that some users are seeing scraping when the travel distance threshold is > 0mm. If this is the case then Z Hop Type to Normal might help at the cost of longer print times. The bottom of this Github issue is a great read for folks who want to learn the pros and cons of these settings: github.com/bambulab/BambuStudio/issues/3423

[@1Wolverine2]

Well, it looks like we do learn something new everyday. 6 years in 3D Printing and always turned down on printing outer wall first. I'll have to test it now. Thanks for your time.

[@bikerguy3109]

What is this setting in Prusa slicer? There’s a box for “external perimeter first: print contour perimeters from the outermost one to the innermost one instead of the default inverse order.” Is this the same setting?

[@Prevettspecialdesign]

Nice find, going to try it tonight. Just found your channel, and it’s fantastic! 😊

[@PrintingPerspective]

Thanks :) Hope it helps for your prints!

[@mo0seboy]

Neat slicer trick. This made my layer lines on CF-PETG look massively better.

[@PrintingPerspective]

Glad to hear that :)

[@hotfix7387]

I have been enjoying your videos for a while now and you appear to be a fellow engineer. So it was time to pony up and join as a member to support you. I hope these types of videos keep coming and that others follow my lead.

[@PrintingPerspective]

Thank you so much! It is very nice to hear when people say they like videos, especially when it comes from an engineer. It confirms that the content is moving in the direction I want it to move. :)

[@wildcroissant]

This small change gave me the biggest improvement of quality from all the changes. Including extruder/hotend/rails/kinetic bed. I don't need to upgrade anything anymore, and prints are superb, even under strong top-down lightning

[@Sentinel372]

Thank you for your work. For me Inner outer inner walls is slightly better but the seams are less beautiful. Have you changed the seam settings?

[@LCARS359]

def gonna try this

[@jasonjennings6686]

Thank you! Never heard abou this before. Cant wait to try it.

[@osiris9679]

Ok. TESTED. Using the Built in Orca Tolerance test, I am able to get the hex key into the .05 Hole. Previously, I was only able to get down to the .2. The only change made to the printer was changing to Inner/Outer/Inner.

[@maltoNitho]

Sub’d. My mind is a little blown. Can’t wait to try all this out!

[@church493]

@DIYPERSPECTIVE May i ask what measurement unit is for you in overhang printing example of ABS on X1C, are those 10 % or mm/s for Bridge/External, and 50 are % mm/s for Bridge/Internal speeds? (And at what max volumetric speed you usually print ABS on X1C, if those are %?)

[@willofthemaker]

Been usong outer wall first for a while. Definitely well worth it. Minimal infill disturbances shown on the outside. I have one model that I sell as a physical process where itnis causing me issues due to overhang. I wonder if i can do a local section of inner wall first just in the overhang area. Could be interesting to explore it

[@AndrewLeeiniceguy]

Wow! The quality of my prints are so clean!! Thank you

[@TouchofDepth]

Thanks for sharing! Ill give er a try

[@Orselonn]

Thank you very much for this video. I had no idea that with this simple option, I could improve the print quality so much. With ESUN's ABS+, the quality improved quite a bit for me.

[@PrintingPerspective]

Nice :)

[@RoseKindred]

I used a similiar option with Cura and it was a game changer in my quality. I was chasing ghosts and z-seams and over extrustion... One change and it became so smooth afterwards.

[@PixelForgeLab]

Hi, I tried Inner/Outer = IW first and then Outer/Inner = OW first, the Inner/Outer was better... how's that possible ? was it the third option ?

[@peacefulandhappyzong]

Thank you for the helpful video. Do you have the solution how to get rid of wall bulge at transition from base floor to wall?

[@andersevenrud]

Just re-printed a Raspi case I found yesterday, but with OW. All the long straight surfaces came out much smoother, but the narrowest sections around the I/O, and the poles for the self-tapping screws came out a little bit bumpy. So a little bit hit and miss without any additional tuning, which I'll look into. So far I'm quite impressed. I've ignored this setting because I haven't really had any issues with tolerances and that Prusa Slicer has that tooltip that says it would reduce overall quality...

[@Airbag888]

Where do you change that in Prusa slicer please?

[@andersevenrud]

@@Airbag888 Under "Advanced" in "Print Settings -> Layers and Perimiters" you'll find a checkbox with "External perminiters first". It's only visible if you have expert mode on (the red button).

[@Airbag888]

@@andersevenrud thank you! Found it,

[@DrewLSsix]

I've had mild arguments with people that refuse to believe that dual gear extruders have any downside.

[@Pappagar]

in engineering almost everything has Pros and Cons :)

[@pizzablender]

Using a Titan clone... which is surprisingly good in a DD configuration. I wondered why, but I understand now.

[@George.___]

Would anti-backlash gears be practical for a dual gear extruder? OR Is a single gear extruder just better in all cases?

[@testboga5991]

Dual gear became only a thing because back then the be all end all feature an extruder needed was flawless ninjaflex printing...

[@makers_lab]

I experimented with this a few months ago on our Bambus, and for the models we were printing it made no difference or was worse, but it's definitely one of the settings to be aware of when dialing in the quality. I'm really surprised at your "before" results though as I've never had prints look so poor from Bambu other than when I had some damp pla. It's just consistently good.

[@robinstefanov5152]

This solved all my outer line line problems, I thought it was weak cooling . I`ve never suspect that is the wall order so much important for print quality !! Thank you so much for sharing your experiments !!!

[@Artof3drendering]

tested on the bambu a1 and work perfect! thanks mate for this tips

[@CaptainKush420]

Is there a setting in Cura to be able to print the walls in this order? Forgive my flagrant ignorance, as I'm still learning

[@supercurioTube]

That's awesome, I'm gonna try! I appreciate you included the comment about the tradeoff as well

[@PrintingPerspective]

Thanks, hope it works well for your printer :)

[@brannanjohnson4046]

Gonna try this today!

[@DaiShuryoTechnus]

Do PrusaSlicer and CURA have this setting, or is it exclusive to OrcaSlicer?

[@JameTek]

Great tip! Thanks for sharing!

[@noahkatz9616]

This is great, subscribed! Question: At 3:33 at the bottom of the page shown, it says " When this feature is enabled in OrcaSlicer, the overlap between the outer wall and its adjacent inner wall is set to zero. This ensures that the overall strength of the printed part is unaffected." It seems to me that there would then be little or no adhesion between the two adjacent lasers and thus the part would be weaker.

[@incognito_282]

One of the best "3d printing tips" videos, thank you

[@PrintingPerspective]

Glad it was helpful! :)

[@DJSolitone]

Great video thanks for the advice!

[@GabrielPalileo]

A lot of my recent prints have had some decent overhangs, which has always prevented me from using sandwich mode out of caution - guess I'll have to give it a go once again!

[@RexAnothership]

For tight tolerance or for quality surface I always use outer wall first but depending on the finish I need 0.4mm outer wall with 0.07 layer height and 0.7mm infill with 0.2mm layer height to make up for slower perimeter speed. This works great for overhangs and surface finish as it prints 3 layers of outer wall before 1 pass of the infill. This is done with a 0.6mm nozzle.

[@tjCooper88]

You're using Inner-outer-inner option? Or Outer-inner? In the settings?

[@carterwilliams226]

is this a possible setting on Prusaslicer? i cant seem to find it

[@yoavgilad1821]

I don't tend to leave comments on videos, but I'll make an exception here - I had bad looking walls for a while now, and haven't thought about changing wall printing order. I just changed this simple setting and printed the best looking piece I ever made. Thank you so much!

[@PrintingPerspective]

Glad it did the trick :)

[@FilmFactry]

Question: New to Orca. Ender 3 Pro/Duet I ran the temp tower (PLA) from 195-230. really can't see a difference. Then I did first pass of Flow Calibration, and frankly they all have very nice top layers? I can't really pick a best.

[@pbft.j]

Are you sure that you're seeing the temperatures change as needed? Print again, watch the display to make sure it's changing temps mid print as expected.

[@_..-.._..-.._]

You’re correct, OW first is better for everything if your cooling setup is more than enough. The outer first with enough air cools instantly because it’s a tiny amount of plastic, IW first has the outer wall getting heat from the still-cooling inner wall. Cooling makes the difference!

[@uujims3762]

Note that layer with to height ratio and extrousion multiplier also have a huge effect on overhangs and surface consistency

[@TinSVM]

Nice, so what's the rule for that? Could you elaborate a bit more?

[@PrintingPerspective]

Most likely, I have used the most common ones of 0.42mm outer wall width and 0.2mm layer height.

[@uujims3762]

@@TinSVM lower extrousion multiplier can led to better finish but weaker parts and vice versa (inner to outer wall order only)

[@rainmannoodles]

That’s true, ratio is important. Think about a 0.4 nozzle printing 0.2 layers: XXXX XXXX XXXX XXXX Now cut the layer height in half: XXXX XXXX XXXX XXXX There’s much less overhang on each individual layer.

[@Dark0Storm]

​@@TinSVM For layer width and layer height I believe it's all about increasing the amount of overlap between one layer and the next. Larger line widths will overlap the previous layer a little more, improving adhesion and therefore overhang quality Similarly as you reduce the layer height the amount by which the next layer on an overhang is moved out by decreases (because there are more layers and so a finer "grain" to the stepping out), which increases the overlap between layers, improving adhesion and the overhang quality.

[@Beanpapac15]

I first noticed this while tuning print settings for a large format printer at work but completely forgot about it after I started using Bambu/Vorons because the print quality was always good enough

[@velocityfpv5231]

does this play well with scarf seams?

[@thenamelessone123]

Does this apply to PrusaSlicer too?

[@Hotwire_RCTrix]

I have always done this. It just seems to make sense.

[@Jagjagula]

I wonder how well it'll work on prusa slicer since it only has outer first and not inner outer inner

[@_..-.._..-.._]

I’ve been on the fence about getting an A1 or A1 mini with AMS but I’ve seen some build cheapness that scares me, I can’t see that A1 extruder lasting long enough for my use. My most-used printer is a modified AnkerMake M5c on linear rails and it has roughly 3000 print hours on the stock hotend, stock belts, stock carriage, only changes were rails and Noctua hot end fan, it’s a beast, wish it were open source.

[@riba2233]

very useful, thanks!

[@ChrisHarmon1]

Some of my best prints came off a Kossel Mini I built way back in 2014 that had a bearing for idler vs driven hobbed idler gear. That said, I'm not a big fan of concave hobbed drive gear or idler, because the filament can walk up the sides of the idler and/or hobbed gear which essentially changes the gear ratio, think CVT transmission and the filament is the belt.

[@jonnygreenjeans]

Ngl I thought this was just going to be some clickbait but damn, the proof is in the pudding!! You’re right it does seem counterintuitive. I’m going to try this out for myself but it’s hard to deny all of your testing and obviously clear results. Great job on enriching our community. Damn near perfect prints ahead!! 😎

[@sinepilot]

Infill before walls or after?

[@LT72884]

how do you do this in prusa slicer 2.7? thanks

[@deucedeuce1572]

Outer walls first was important for me, because it improved accuracy and stopped hopes from printing undersized... and it also ended up increasing print quality by a good amount. I use only a mostly factory Ender 3 and get extremely good quality prints from it. I temporarily upgraded the hot end with a Micro Swiss, but for some reason I just can't get it to work right. I have constant partial-clogging and poor quality prints that break easily, because some layers were printed with partial clogs (and the layers are thin walls). I have to go back to the original hot end until I can find a better replacement, but I have no idea what to buy. I don't have a lot of money, but I just want to be able to print CF Nylon. I probably should have just gone with an all metal heat brake, but I was told that the Micro Swiss was the way to go. Also have a Sprite Extruder (not installed) that would be nice to be able to use... but the important thing is being able to print good quality with PLA+ and CF Nylon. Don't care too much about anything else, although higher speed would be nice.

[@jimidjoriginal9295]

That seems extremely helpful, i will try it out next since i have problems with part fitting... even though i must admit that i am using an 0.8 mm nozzle which could also affect the overall thinkess of the part walls. Thank you anyway for the recommendation. :) *Edit: I also want to ask something else depending on the settings I usually use. To be more specific, I am using a much lower printing speed for the outer walls vs the inner and the infill, do you think that this is for the better, doesn't matter? or does it make things worse?

[@urgamecshk]

Depends on your setup. Can you print with the same quality at a higher speed?

[@jimidjoriginal9295]

@@urgamecshk I can print great up to 100 mm/s, at least when it comes to wall speed. The infill starts to underextrude after 80 mm/s for some kind of reason. Anyway, i have already tried the above method from outer to inner wall and worked absolutely amazing for part fittings, which was my purpose. The printing clearences decreased from 0.4-0.5 mm to only 0.1 mm (most likely due to some over extrusion), keep in mind that i am using a 0.8 mm nozzle and due to the extra drooping i saw a decrease of quality (underextrusion) in the begining of the outer wall but in generall the quality was absolutely perfect after that certain point. Btw i am using a Creality spider speedy ceramic hotend and an almost stock CR10S printer.

[@dirtydan2806]

I've known about this for a few years. Its main downsides are long travel moves will leave a gap due to nozzle pressure and it's impossible to print ID threads with OW first. Also ironing can also cause a gap due to low nozzle pressure.

[@philippej]

Nice tip, thank you! Can you (or someone else) tell me which printer it is at 3:22 ? it looks nice and simple with bed swinger and linear rails.

[@PrintingPerspective]

That's my fully modded KP3S PRO S1 - www.printables.com/model/433170-kp3s-pro-s1-dual-rail-z-axis-mod (main mod). It has so many mods that it is anything rather than the KP3S PRO anymore lol.

[@wouden9205]

How could you change the wall printing order in Bnabu Studio?

[@rfnovo]

what print speeds for the inner and outer wall did you use in the tests?

[@PrintingPerspective]

150/175 mm/s

[@briansrcadventures1316]

I may give that a try on my Ender 3 S1 with the Zuff cooler.

[@josh9465]

When I use outer walls first I can’t seem to print threads. Threads as in a bolt.

[@ucirello]

At the time of Ender 3 Pro and Prusa MK3S+, I heard once Tim from TH3D to claim that his E3 printed better than Prusas. I thought he was BSing me, but that indeed true. That was the earliest signal that single gear extruder produced nicer prints. The second event that made me a single gear extruder partisan was several bad experiences with the BMG extruders - not only the quality wasn't great, they were uncomfortable to use. And the third event that consolidated my interest for single gear extruder was the amazing experience I had with the EZR extruder. So when I started building DYI printers, I was kind of upset to see they opted for dual gear extruders. That's up to G2 came out, I am converting them to G2 and except from some initial calibration (and getting the gears to accommodate in the gear box) the quality is very nice IMO. At least slightly better than my best tuned CW2.

[@zdog90210]

The seemecnc ezrstruder has one gear and works beautifully

[@deucedeuce1572]

Most of this has been my experience also. I can't speak to the overhangs though. My overhangs are better than before, but I cannot say for sure that it's because of this setting. I didn't notice it right away, but that's probably because I didn't immediately print things with overhangs before and after making the change.

[@test-kz2iq]

I have the same issue with my prints so I will try this.

[@PrintingPerspective]

Just keep in mind that all my shots are made with the worst lighting conditions to expose and show the difference the most. Anyone can show good-looking prints with the correct lighting angle. :)

[@skilledcamman4752]

Please do share the extruder mount.

[@AngriestAmerican]

Can you experiment with simplify 3d for the bambu labs printers?

[@Airbag888]

Where is that setting in Prusa slicer 🤔

[@melmskilemz6307]

Think you overlooked that the bambu a1 has adaptive flow compensation so it knows the pressure in the nozzle

[@kimmotoivanen]

Parts shown have IW and OW, but how do they actually translate to slicer settings? Is either of those inner-outer-inner, or is it at all useful?

[@PrintingPerspective]

IW = Inner/Outer option, OW = Inner/Outer/Inner option in all my comparisons.

[@kimmotoivanen]

@@PrintingPerspective Thanks for clarification! And first inner wall takes (hides) any speed/temperature/melting phase difference before going to outer wall. Makes sense. Now, how to make non-driven idler for Orbiter 2 (internet seems entirely void on this topic) without losing too much extrusion force and filament guidance from the gears to the steel tube 😅

[@Pikle.]

how do i do this on prusaslicer?

[@olafmarzocchi6194]

Since you talk about surface finish, have you ever read the article called "Filament Width Compensation Experiments"? (Links not always allowed in YB, no idea why). It uses a Hall effect sensor to measure filament diameter and Klipper compensates for it. And you know what I found out today? The Q1 pro has a filament runout sensor on the extruder which is not a simple switch but actually a Hall filament width sensor! Just it's not used as diameter sensor, only as runout. Maybe you could try to calibrate it and enable it to see how it performs, if it helps or not. The author of the article writes that with that sensor he basically doesn't need to fine tune the extrusion multiplier for each filament, they end up all at about the same value.

[@boehserenkel]

As of my testing I get nearly the same result with precise wall as with IOI Walls and also better overhangs. Also for IOI you obviously need 3 walls. I usually print with 2 + PW

[@Tht1guy63]

This may be my solution ive looked for.

[@olafmarzocchi6194]

The latest Orca also has an option to NOT slow down outer walls, so that their appearance is more consistent, no matter the overall layer time. You'll be amazed by the results.

[@PrintingPerspective]

Yup, this feature combined with printing the outer wall first will be great. Can't wait for the official release.

[@xKenn]

What is the setting called?

[@olafmarzocchi6194]

@@xKenn do not slow down for external perimeter, in material properties