Do Not Use Synthetic Engine Oil

[@SteveRobReviews]

This is the MTD lawn tractor I had delivered from Amazon. kzbin.info/www/bejne/mZe8oGqbpJWfb7M

[@juriedekock6154]

I used synthetic oil in all the engines I rebored myself . No trouble, it just take a bit longer to run in ! We used oil for diesel engines on newly machined engines until such time that the engine is worn and use oil and then we switch over to oil for petrol engines. This way we had NO engine wear for more than 300 000 km !!!!!

[@jvazquez53]

Used synthetic on a 20 year old generator and when it finally died, it was not the motor that died, was the stator. The engine still running like day one. Of course you should use standard oil for the initial break in! Everything in my household including my 84 Yamaha two stroke dirt bike uses Synthetic oil. I learned something on this video: DO NOT BUY ANYTHING WITH KOHLER ENGINE!

[@k.lindsey3529]

Yes, I've had my experience with synthetic oil in the K-66 hydrostatic axle and it wasn't a good experience. Turns out the recommended oil by the manufacture is more suited for northern states, not hot weather states in the deep south. Synthetic oil will only do it's job in extreme heat if it's the proper grade.

[@shadowopsairman1583]

I wouldnt trust mobile 1. I used it 1 time and started getting lifter tick, flushed it all out and went back to valvoline,no problrms

[@scottyjones27]

@@shadowopsairman1583 may be change Ur oil n filters every 10000.0miles be for U sludge her up there video playing brother

[@MNDashcam]

I've put synthetic in everything from cars trucks motorcycles Small engines etc and it's always worked fine for me.

[@andythompson7725]

Yes same here!

[@davidmoran4471]

I also use synthetic as it tolerates heat better than conventional, and lets face it, air cooled engines run on the hot side. I still do my oil/filter changes at the 50 hr interval as in the Kawasaki manual.

[@onestopfabshop3224]

I run it in my Miller Trailblazer 302 welder. No problems. It's a fuel injected Kohler.

[@Real2k25]

It was working for me also

[@GardenerEarthGuy]

Germany ran the military on synthetic oil towards the end of the war.

[@roddycreswell8613]

I had a 1981 corvette. I built the engine myself and only used synthetic motor oil. Over 40,000 miles of extremely hard driving, driving that would crystallize a new set of brake pads in a couple of hours. When I took the motor apart it was as clean as the day I put it together. Bearing clearance unchanged. I only use synthetic oil, that sold me.

[@Roy-ji7bg]

The newer High detergent petroleum base was would do the exact same thing they're both good oils they both have their own good qualities I myself use nothing but straight 30 weight in the winter straight 40 to 50 weight in the summer depending on how hot it is you cannot find a synthetic that goes that high and and just like you when I pulled my engine apart with high mileage that's clean as it gets maintenance

[@integr8er66]

Its not the bearings that suffer, flat tappet cams need zinc, new synthetic oils do not have ot and even the conventional oil available today doesn't have enough, you have to get diesel oil like Rotella T to get zinc. without zinc your cam will go flat before 100k miles, and it makes no difference how hard or fast you drive, that changes nothing.

[@raymondreiff8170]

I have used Mobil #1 For YEARS have never had Any of my engines Fail from it, EVER Now of course I change oil every 5,000 miles on Gasoline engines or before depends how hard I BEAT on them.

[@DifferentGrove70]

I used that brand recently and required oil 5w 20w and now I have oil drips ?

[@crackerjack8115]

@@integr8er66 Castrol has high levels of zinc

[@vinson6337]

I’ve used 100% synthetic from new to 300k plus. Absolutely ZERO problems. Mobil Extended Performance is awesome!

[@MrGerryoc]

Reason manufacturers say dont use synthetic oil is it makes your engine last too-long bad for repeat. Business

[@vamoneygroup]

😂😂

[@jumpercable20]

I'm 70 years old, I spent 4 years at GMAD (General Motors Assembly Division), 1978-1982, I spent 15 years as a chev mechanic at an Atlanta Area dealership, also spent 2 years at a phone center processing and ok'ing under 600.00 auto repairs for a Automotive Protection company, I've researched synthetic oil for over 10 years and have used either Mobil 1 or Amsoil 100% synthetic motor oil since 1978. So I've used synthetic motor oil for 44 years without 1 single oil related failure. So I doubt that you'll have much luck changing my mind. I don't have a tractor.

[@SteveRobReviews]

Well I did not try to convince anyone of anything. This is a video strictly about an air cooled engine not an automotive engine . I never said to not ever use synthetic oil !!! Kohler recommended not to use it during break-in only , that's it .

[@matt7iron]

My yr 2000 E55 Amg says Mobil 1 0W-30 European, gotta follow da specs

[@thelonewrangler1008]

You want a cookie? Ill give you a minute to put your dentures in🍪🤣

[@accordio321]

@@thelonewrangler1008if you live long enough, you’ll likely need dentures too.

[@judysuprtrkr3423]

Thanks so much for your extensive knowledge of synthetic oils. I am a female and I have a Ford f-250 going on the production line March 6, 23 at 67 I’m sure this will be my last order. I asked Scotty if I should change the factory oil and put synthetic in when I get her home?? What do you think?? I greatly would appreciate your opinion, thanks Judy

[@davidcook7816]

What that tells me is that synthetic oil is far superior to conventional oils. If the engine won't "break in" with synthetic then it isn't wearing any of the engine parts. An engine "break in' is the wearing of the cylinder walls and rings also called "seating" the rings. I use synthetic oil in everything I own and have for many years. I change my own oil and ship a sample off to Blackstone Labs to have it analyzed for wear metals and contaminants. 130,000 miles on my Town and Country, 75,000 miles on my wife's Honda CR-V, 19,000 miles on my Harley Davidson and every oil analyzation has come back indicating no wearing metals or contamination. My Harley and CR-V came from the factory with synthetic and will see nothing different as long as I own them. One other thing, I rather think Kohler lawn tractor engines are not manufactured to the same specifications as todays automotive and motorcycle engines.

[@gordonkeith9535]

@davidcook7816 I have a cub cadet with a Kohler 7000 series V-twin. I use Kohler synthetic oil, and they recommend changing the oul 50% less often. I have an air compressor and Ingersol doubles the warranty on the compressor if you use their synthetic oil.

[@aaronpearson7929]

There has been many study’s on this. Synthetic works so well that the manufacturers want you to break in with conventional because it allows wear. Synthetic slows the wear down so much it takes much longer for break in.

[@sweetness34km]

I just run breakin oil for cam lifters my toy has Teflon coated bearings as well as some components. After my guy tuned it and camshaft breakin in goes synthetic with zddp

[@TheOtherTrunk]

exactly

[@ihave35cents95]

When I used to build vintage Porsche engines i used to run non detergent for a good 500 miles like motorcycle builds.

[@freedomfan3277]

I've used synthetic oil in all my engines for the last 20+ years with no problems.

[@stopher1971]

Lake Speed says the same thing and it makes perfect sense if you have common sense, i’ve only learned this recently because I’ve never had a new car and likely will never

[@cobra7250]

20 years ago when engine block bores were finished they needed to be worn in or broken in because the tool marks had to be smoothed out by the piston rings for a good seal. The engines that are bored in the last 20 years have this additional finishing operation called plateau honing which artificially breaks the engine in. It smoothes out the top surfaces of the tool marks and prepares the bores for sealing without breaking in.

[@raybin6873]

When I replaced a cylinder head on a 92' Dodge Spirit...I saw the cylinder bores were like brand new looking - still had the honing marks...no ridge wear at top of cylinders...car had 120,000 miles...I was completely amazed!

[@rumart2012]

I have used synthetic oil for my Toyota Camry 2009 since day one and it's been with me for 12 wonderful years. I haven't experienced any problem with its engine. It has been running like new. No leakage, no unusual engine noise, and no deviation from its usual maintenance.

[@98triffid]

"traditional" advice Is to use regular oil for break-in but u may use whichever, this is why that advice is given (metal shavings are not engine friendly)

[@danlees8459]

I use synthetic oil in everything (cars, trucks, tractors, log splitter, etc.) and have for 30 years with NO problems.

[@sandman7849]

Synthetic oil is much better than natural oil in every case. Synthetic oil will break down less and has a much tighter bell-shaped curve. My engines last forever. I only use synthetic oil.

[@sumralltt]

100% Agree!

[@StevelsCamping]

That manual was probably written 20+ years ago. I use synthetic, AMSOIL in everything I have.

[@SteveRobReviews]

Well it's a new lawn tractor but the technology in air cooled engines have not changed as much as water cooled . We can only go by what the experts recommend as their proving the warranty and the specifications . Cheers Steve

[@ezrawaters6653]

@@SteveRobReviews Vanguard engines require synthetic 15W-50. They put synthetic 15W-50 in the sump from the factory

[@SteveRobReviews]

@@ezrawaters6653 Interesting how some engineers build engines requiring different lubricants.

[@7thsoneli]

@@SteveRobReviews its not so interesting its simple,more uniform molecules,better protection,but these synthetic oils are not true synthetics,only amsoil is a true synthetic base. Read up on the lawsuit that allows these oils to be graded synthetic,they are dino oil. amsoil is a true synthetic!

[@mikoloe]

Amsoil is all hype for the money unless your a professional race driver.

[@erickdriver2]

Steve, get a hot plate. Find two pans you don't care about. Pour synthetic in one and conventional in the other. Apply heavy heat to both until they evaporate but not catch on fire. The synthetic will almost completely evaporate other than the additives and the conventional will leave behind sludge. In modern engines that sludge builds up over time and restricts engine seals from conditioners in the oil that keep them from cracking and leaking oil. Need a reference for my rant? My entire family attended a college just northwest of Houston that has one of, if not the best petroleum engineering programs in the world. You have no idea what you are talking about and are going off of what small engine manuals are saying. In every conceivable metric, synthetics have a higher specific heat capacity, have better viscous characteristics, and protect better before the additive package is even considered. Honda, Toyota, and many other mainstream manufacturers are all calling for synthetic from day 1. They want to require it for two purposes. 1) It protects the engine better and reduces the amount of warranty claims. This reduces their liabilities. 2) People that cheap out can be denied warranty claims, reducing their liabilities. There's a thousand tests on KZbin regarding the capabilities of synthetic vs conventional, but God bless you for reading a paperback manual. "Here's your sign..." - Bill Engvall

[@graybeardproductions2597]

My 1962 221 ford would not agree with you

[@tempest411]

I think the point of the video is to illustrate that synthetic oils lubricate so well, that parts you WANT to wear into each other, like iron rings into iron cylinder bores, won't. I remember learning this in high school auto shop back in the mid 80s.

[@billhargrave2356]

The reason for using standard petroleum oils for break in is, the film strength of synthetic oils is 6 times stronger than petroleum based oils and the rings need the friction to "wear in" and seat properly. With the higher film strength the friction is reduced and break in takes much longer. The lower film strength of petroleum based oils allows for more friction and more wear on the ring/piston surfaces which enables a faster break in.

[@johneaves1066]

Exactamundo 👍

[@monelfunkawitz3966]

Some people talk about this, but there seems to be zero hard data on this. Its all assumptions. I run 100% synthetic from little engines to my pulling engines... no ring sealing issues ever.

[@Jon-O.]

Every new vehicle I've purchased drove off the dealership lot went home city driving between 2 and 20 miles immediately changed the oil to synthetic and the filter. Never obeyed a break-in period. None of my vehicles ever showed signs of blow by or oil consumption. Even after 100k or more miles. Yeah I would believe more the fact this is a old wives tale to keep people from switching from conventional to synthetic. If it took that much for piston rings to seat every diesel engine ever made would be a complete failure before ever going to Market. Those compression ratios would never be reached 15,18 to 1 if rings didn't seat at assembly. Real talk.

[@cybergrindin]

365000 miles on my Toyota. Never had nothing but full synthetic Mobil 1 in your hands. Runs like new

[@RainArchiver]

Since 1993 I've been using Mobile One oil in all my new cars. My 1998 Ford F+250 with a 4.6L, I bought New with 68 miles on it. Now it's a little rough on the body but 380,000 miles later and the engine still runs and starts like new. Always well maintained and always Mobile One oil. My 2012 GMC 2500 I bought new, now has 153,000 miles also Mobile One. And My 1993 Honda Civic I got new right after college. Now my niece drives it with over 350,000 miles on it before the odometer stopped working also started its life on Mobile one too.

[@larrybarrios5276]

I've used mobil-1 synthetic since 1974 approximately in all my vehicles including 2 stroke engines. Never ever have i had a problem

[@gregz4249]

Mobile one in Honda Odyssey 480,000 still runs great and changed every 7-8,000 miles

[@williamcarr3976]

I have used Mobil 1 since I bought my 2006 Silverado, with 40k Miles, in 2009. I have 511,000 miles and still going here in 2024. I even tore down the top end in 2018 for a ticking noise and replaced the lifters and push rods (found bent push rods) and the motor was clean inside. I change the oil regularly as I do all the maintenance. If anyone else has this issue with the 5.3L Gen 3 engine, I recommend replacing with the LS7 lifters and chrome molly push rods.

[@SteveRobReviews]

👍

[@bazemk5111979]

I have been using Mobil1 5w-20 synthetic for the pass 15 years on the same truck, couldn't been happier and I only change oil, filter and air filter every 12.000 miles...

[@tranerekt1731]

They want you to use conventional oil at first because it allows a tiny bit of wear to break in the engine. The synthetic doesn't provide enough friction to break in the engine. That should tell you which you want to use in the long run.

[@SteveRobReviews]

👍

[@luissantiago7772]

Straight to the point answer.💪

[@Myvintageiron7512]

Used Mobil 1 in everything zero problems in the last 15 years

[@SteveRobReviews]

👍

[@tailher1]

I have been in the landscape industry for over 40 years. In that time, we have always used Amsoil in our trucks. Opti-4 in the four strokes and Opti-2 in the two strokes. Along with that, we put Star Tron in all the small engine fuel. Never have had an oil related problem in our machines. Also never have had any fuel related problems. I know everyone is different but that is my experience with small engines and trucks.

[@handmethatchingadera]

The reason some new engines spec synthetic oil from the start is due to the new “plateau honing” process used to finish the cylinder. In the old days when a cylinder was bored and then honed the honing would leave a cross hatch pattern with microscopic sharp ridges in the cuts that lay in the cross hatch pattern. When you started the engine for the first time these sharp ridges would lay down or flatten to some extent leaving a fairly smooth surface with a small cross hatch channel that holds oil for lubrication. This would be your common break in as the rings wear into the cylinder wall flattening the sharp ridges and seating to the surface that remains after. This is also one reason why it was important to change oil fairly soon after break in period. Now with modern technology the honing process has been modified with what is now referred to as plateau honing. In this process the same cross hatch pattern is cut into the cylinder but a final process with a plateau hone follows laying over the sharp ridges left by the honing process leaving a perfect surface for rings to ride on and receive perfect lubrication, maximum seal, and less friction. This is the new process that allows engines to run with little to know break in as the rings are basically installed into a perfect ring seal environment before the engine has ever even been started. This along with hydraulic rollerized valve train make break nothing like what it once was. Not every manufacturer is utilizing this technology and not every engine uses valve train that allows for this either. Hope this helps and great video!

[@jamesmedina2062]

Good comments! My Honda has both and I'm not sure how long they have been doing this but it helps to minimize early engine failures.

[@dcgregorya5434]

Thanks for the information never would've known about this.

[@grantreid8583]

@@jamesmedina2062 The sunnen hone stone catalogue actually recommends a different set of stones for Hondas much finer than most, possibly due to the materials used for the blocks. Hondas of old were made of good stuff even the engine bearings were coded meaning basically the engines were measured individually and assembled with the correct tolerances ie blueprinted. As for the newer Hondas i dont know i suspect they are not what they used to be.

[@paulbillings1791]

@@grantreid8583 The only true engine related failures that I have seen for Honda small engines is from people just topping up the oil and never changing it. Two systems typically take the beating. 1. The proverbial 'Easy Start' system that holds the exhaust valve open ever so slightly,so there's almost no compression when pulling the cord. A centrifugal system engages the exhaust valve back in to full operation closure at relatively low RPMS. The other is valve lash. I've seen collective wear to have the lash gap be as much as 20 thousandths. Supposed to be around 4 thousandths.

[@otpyrcralphpierre1742]

My brother bought a used Toyota Tercel years ago. After he bought it, with about 60K miles or so, he changed the oil to Mobil 1 synthetic. Years later, after about 275K miles, he called me over to help fix an oil leak. The valve cover gasket needed to be changed. When I pulled the valve cover off, the internals looked like they were Brand New! I've been using Mobil 1 in everything I own since then. It's Never let me down.

[@boathemian7694]

I’m a Koehler generator tech, all we use is synthetic lol

[@HerseySyntheticOil]

Tech, do you have any idea who makes your koehler oil? Especially your lawn mower oils?

[@100pyatt]

@@HerseySyntheticOil Amsoil lately is making their extended drain oil

[@kevinlindahl677]

My 17 yr old daughter had a 78 buick. Engine locked and stalled her on highway. Called me to pick her up . Got to her location checked oil, nothing on stick, I had one quart of mobil synthetic in truck. I dumped that in and started the vehicle. Without a problem, we drove back to home, i changed oil and filter complete. Drove car for two years and sold it. Car is still is on the road as i know, I'm sold on synthetic oil for all my engines large and small.

[@voiceofraisin241]

My dad monitored his gas mileage religiously. He changed his own oil as well. One time they didn’t have the regular oil at his viscosity. He bought synthetic oil instead. He found out he got 2 mpg better gas mileage. He had a Silverado v8. Synthetic is a superior blend of oil.

[@lindanwfirefighter4973]

I have been using Synthetic Oil for the past 16 years with my Toyota Tacoma.

[@Nezi_Ar]

My 06 Scion xa made it to 326k on original engine on synthetic oil then after an engine swap I drove car until 447k then original transmission went along with 2nd engine...

[@kkevinj1]

Been using mobile one for at least 25 years, no engine issues from the oil, engine SO clean inside

[@canonman80d34]

Engine "issues"? Now we're having engine "issues", as if the word isn't overused enuff. I agree with you, BTW. But Valvoline scores a bit higher than Mobil 1.

[@MurphyAM]

The added friction from running conventional oil is beneficial during break in so that the outer circumference of the piston rings can wear to the exact profile of the cylinder bore, since they may not be a 100% perfect match out of the box. After that is achieved, switch to synthetic to prevent any further wearing of the rings, which would cause ring end gap to expand and compression to drop.

[@starlord872]

LOL I worked as a contractor for Castrol Oil few years ago. The comments of all self-proclaim experts on here is more entertaining than a good movie!!!

[@SteveRobReviews]

😅😅

[@mosfet74]

Modern engine piston rings are designed with synthetic oil in mind.

[@MichaelEastman-e8v]

460000miles on my Chevy truck, last time changed the plugs compression check was 8 cylinders within 5 psi, changed oil at 10 k +- 1 k. Rebuilt a 100 k engine, the home marks were still visible and n ridge in cylinders. Mobile 1all the way.

[@markr.1984]

I have a push mower I bought from Sears in 2010, has a B&S platinum engine. I've used nothing but synth in it and it starts first time in the spring with one pull. I also use non-ethanol gas too. It runs super great!! No leaks of any kind and it does not burn any oil that I can notice. The syth oil I use is specifically for lawn mowers. Not for cars.

[@johnminshell6532]

My CLK serviced by Mercedes has only had Shell Ex 5 40 oil for over 200,000 miles with no Engine repairs , the modern oils have improved a lot over time

[@SuzukiAnthony]

for more detail for those that dont know. new engines have cross hatchings roughed into the walls to act like a cutter on the piston rings. this grinds down the high points of the pistons rings so they wear into the cylinder wall shape. this closes any gaps, creates a better seal, increases efficiency and reduces blow by and oil consumption. synthetic is a better lubricant that reduces the cutting process, the hatchings smooth out over time so if the rings arnt cut enough before the sidewalls smooth then you will have a worse off engine. its ok to use otherwise. also adding pressure to the cylinder like mid range acceleration helps break in as the cylinder pressure pushes the rings out harder towards the walls better helping the break in, thats why going too easy and letting a new engine idle for too long is bad.

[@canonman80d34]

Hey, thank you for the interesting info. If it helps the engine last longer, I'm all for it. They are lasting much longer than they were 20+ years ago. Sold my '05 LaCrosse, and it was running very well, no problems ( I refuse to use the very overused word "issues". We all should). Now I'm gonna repeat with my new (to me) 2017 LaCrosse Premium, and change the oil every 3000 miles. I prefer Valvoline over Mobil 1.

[@Jodyrides]

The reason you need to break in a new engine on the break in non-full synthetic is because. Synthetic oil has such a superior, film, strength, that the rings can not scratch themselves into fitting the cylinder perfectly. You have to use the oil with the not so good lubricating film strength to allow the piston rings to contact the cylinder walls so that the rings will get polished/worn into the proper shape conforming to the bore… by the way. All multiweight oils, Whether they are labeled as full, synthetic, semi synthetic, or not labeled as any synthetic, they are actually partly synthetic. To get the multi different weights, they have polymers added..Polymers are synthetic. 10 W 30 motor oil has polymers added to give it that multi temperature rating. It acts like 10 weight oil at the low test temperature set by the API, and it acts like 30 wt at the upper test temperature. 10W-40 motor oil has more polymers than 10W-30 to get that wider range ..To get that multi temperature rating, the oil has polymers added, the wider, the spread ratio on the weight, the more polymers are added to the oil. I have been using mobile one oil in my cars and trucks since I believe the 1970s was when that first appeared on the market. The advertisement pitch they used was, the once a year or 25,000 mile oil. I liked that so I switched to it. I only change my oil once a year and I do not use fram filters or any other filters that has fram make their filters for them.. I use Purolator filters mostly. And I generally put less than 10,000 miles a year on my vehicles. I have never had an oil related failure in any of my vehicles… One of my vans I bought new in 1977, I had that van for 31 years. And it drove away when I sold it to a scrap yard… I never add aftermarket additives to oil, and I always use the required weight of oil. I let my oil completely drain for hours, sometimes overnight. You would be amazed at how much oil continues to drip from an engine overnight. I only change my oil after I have had the vehicle running on the highway not in the driveway for at least an hour. The detergent in the oil. keeps the grit, gum, soot, acid, metal particles, sludge, and corrosion, suspended in the oil, so that it can be flushed out when you drain the oil.. I also attach a powerful magnet to my drain plug. I do not use high mileage labeled oils. Those oils sometimes have additives that are designed to make rubber gaskets and O-rings swell up hopefully to reduce or eliminate oil leaks in high mileage engines… I always always always fill the oil filter with fresh oil to burp the air out of the filter element so the engine does not starve for oil on a start up after draining waiting for the oil filter to be filled by the oil pump when the car starts.. I have never had anyone, but me change the oil in my vehicles ever. Because if you go to a place to have your oil changed, they are not going to let the oil drain even for five minutes. If you drop your car off to have the oil changed somewhere, they may let your car sit for hours, until the engine is cold, and all of the contaminants suspended in the detergent of the oil will settle in the sludge at the bottom of the engine again, and it will not come out when they pull the car in cold and drain the cold oil. I drain my oil when it is so hot, I will have the car running. When I get home, I will leave it idling, while I get the tools and the oil pan to catch the old oil in place, then I shut the car off and pull the plug while it is too hot to handle… I leave the hood of the vehicle opened while the oil drains so that I don’t forget that there is no oil in the engine yet. I have known people that have drained the oil and forgot to put the oil in, and they drove away… so don’t think just because you are buying oil that is not labeled synthetic. That it is not synthetic. If it has a multiweight rating, it is partly synthetic. If you have a new car or motorcycle. It’s best to use the oil specified by the manufacturer. Especially the oil filters. I have seen Honda reject a warranty fix on a Honda Goldwing motorcycle because the owner was using a Chinese made chrome oil filter… The owners manual of every motorcycle I have seen, I’ve worked in the motorcycle industry for 17 years, every owners manual specifically states to use OEM parts, which includes filters.. that customer that had that damaged engine that Honda refused to repair because of the cheap aftermarket oil, filter, failure, that customer ended up buying a salvaged engine from a salvage yard, and he paid to have that engine installed even though his motorcycle was technically still under warranty.. The most damaging time for any engine, is a cold start up. Because the fuel mixture, weather, fuel injection or carburetor, is Rich. And the cylinder walls are cold. So the incoming fuel condenses on the cylinder walls just like humidity condenses on the outside of a glass of iced tea in the summer. That condensed gasoline. dilutes the engine oil and rinses the lubrication that might be on the cylinders walls away. It is especially true on water cooled engines because those cylinder walls stay cold longer until the engine water around the cylinder jacket warms up… The government got car manufacturers to agree to say that it is OK to drive your cold car as quickly as 15 or 30 seconds after starting it. I wouldn’t do that. Engine oil takes as long as 45 minutes to get up to operating temperature at times.. engines don’t wear out, they are neglected to death..

[@firstjohn3123]

I agree. Same here. Yep, and good filters matter. I will add though, that I go UP 1 grade in oil weight (ie. 5w30 to 5w40) on AIR cooled engines (only) in the summer. May not be recommended, but the film strength of the oil is better when it gets really hot. Have had engines run with 1000's of hours without failure. Watching the oil levels and keeping up on maintenance is key. Any time I've paid someone to do my maintenance (such as on leased vehicles), it's ALWAYS bit me in the A$$. (missing crush washer, cross threaded drain plug, adding 1 quart OVER full - OMG...) Learned all my lessons the hard way. Do it myself, do it right. The Gov't needs to say less about ...well, everything.

[@MartyPollio]

How do you attach a strong magnet onto your oil plug?

[@Jodyrides]

@@firstjohn3123 for decades, I have been using yamabond sealant on the final few threads where the gasket on my drain plugs is. yamabond comes in a toothpaste, tube container, and it acts like toothpaste. But it is used to seal engine cases where the 2 cases are metal to metal, no gasket.. it acts like liquid vinyl, like melted taffy.. I use brake clean on my drain plugs, then I put a small bead around the base of the drain plug… I have never had to replace a drain plug metal gasket, I’ve never had one leak, I don’t have to overtighten them. And that case sealant sort of acts like a thread lock. It does not harden .. i’m sure that it sometimes gets inside the engine when putting two engine cases together, and apparently it does not plug up oil passages.. or else they would not use it when putting engine cases together. It is gasoline and oil resistant. And I have been using it for decades. As a matter fact. I just replaced a tube I have had since I was a motorcycle mechanic part time back in the early 1980s at a Yamaha shop. That too blasted me up until 2021.. I would not use it on paper gaskets.. what I use on dry paper gaskets, I learned in a bulletin from Honda in the 1970s when I was a full-time motorcycle mechanic at a Honda/Yamaha shop.. Honda sent a bulletin to every dealership and every dealership service department, do you use rust oleum silver aluminum paint on dry gaskets. Such as bass gaskets, and some head gaskets. Honda instructed the mechanics to open a brand new can of rust oleum aluminum paint. Do not stirred or shake the can. Get a screwdriver or some long tool to scrape the thick goo from the bottom of the can… coat the head gasket or base gasket or whatever dry gasket you are using with that thick gooey paste. And put it on the engine wet with that gout. That gasket will never stick, it won’t leak, and when you go to take the engine apart in the future, that gasket will not rip because it won’t be stuck to either surface… I still have the court can of aluminum paint that I bought back in the early 1970s when I was a Honda mechanic. And I have always quoted all of my dry gaskets with that paste in the bottom of that. Can that has aluminum in it.. it is not affected by temperature, and I have never had a gasket stick. I have owned for Moto Guzzi’s. You have to check the valve adjustment on those about every 3000 miles. It’s an easy job on those machines because you don’t even have to remove the gas tank. I have never had to replace hey gasket after the first set i had to replace.. Every mechanic out there will tell you, the most aggravating part of a lot of jobs is scraping gaskets. Since I have been using that paste from the bottom of the aluminum paint can, I have never had a gasket even slightly stick or leak. I had a KLR 650 Kawasaki that I was commuting on. There is a replacement balance tensioner that must be done on those after they get a few miles on them. It’s under the Engine side case cover where are the primary chain is for the balance shaft. I bought the upgraded tensioner, and I went to the dealer to get oil and oil filter and things like that, and I asked the parts man to get me a side, case gasket, just in case because I thought it would be stuck and I would be scraping the gasket for about a half an hour after I got the side case off. this was around 2010. So it was 2010 prices. That side case gasket was $58. I asked the parts man, are you serious? He said yeah that’s the price. I told him to hang onto it. I might be back. I was very careful pulling that side case off so I would not damage the original side cover gasket. I can’t imagine how much that gasket is now here in 2023. It was just an average paper gasket. I was able to reuse that gasket because I carefully separated it from the engine with a razor blade as I was removing the side cover. I quoted that with aluminum paint when I put it back together…

[@dmironyuk]

It looks like you're on point pal👌 Another fun fact; put a strong magnet right on the oil filter shell itself, works wonders👍

[@crankybuzzard6867]

years ago.... my father was an engineer at GM. They set up SEVERAL motors in a huge room and just let them run until they "locked up". He was all smiles when he told me Mobil 1 was the only one that didn't lock up. That motor just kept going and going.

[@blackhawk7r221]

That was the 250 test, if memory serves correctly.

[@Redshift-]

That was years ago 🙄 modern synthetics are formulated more to not damage emission systems and lubricate tight tolerance engines now than protect this type of engine. A synthetic for Diesel engines may be a better choice but why would you not want to run a break in oil for the first few hours 🤔

[@c_magpie222]

I change my oil every 8K with Mobil1,costs a bit but protection and advantage is priceless..

[@NURsMec]

I’ve been using mobil 1 full synthetic oil for nissan maxima 1995 and no problem. Now i got 488,880 milesage in it.

[@MarkAAshdown]

With new motorbikes: I was told by my dealer that they had stopped using synthetic oil for a new engine simply because the oil was so good that it didn't allow the pistons etc to bed in. After this period I would suggest that synthetic is better for protection. The manual that you are referring to basically says the same thing.

[@ronald8673]

My 95 Ford Explorer had synthetic installed for the first oil change at 2,500 miles and every 20k after. It went 15 years and 232,000 miles with no engine problems or oil consumption. Still ran fine the day I drove it to the crusher because the frame was swiss cheese and most of the sheet metal rotted away and the trans was starting to slip.

[@jimmymarsh2489]

I have a 2003 Chevrolet Silverado Z-71 truck, and it has had a Mobile One full synthetic oil in it since the day it left the car lot. No problem from the oil.

[@jeffreylynch3203]

A modern automobile engine is built with low tension rings that are extremely precise, and as near perfectly round when installed as possible. The top ring is for cylinder sealing, the second ring is no longer considered a compression ring, rather it is used to scape oil downed away from the piston, and is actually tapered; wider at the bottom than the top. The oil control rings and collector get most of that done still. But today’s engine metallurgy is so good that the rings are round, the cylinder is round, and not of these parts wear, or break in, so synthetic oil is fine, right from the start. Lawn mower engines are pretty old tech. The cast rings and low quality cylinders really do need to break in to each other. Just like airplane engines. Old tech. So a basic mineral oil is best to get the break in done. Another thing about the oil you use. Zinc, dialkyl, not diary, is only necessary where points of impact is extremely high is concerned, that’s the only place that’s neededRocker tip tp pushrod or to vale tip, flat tapped lifters to cam. Synthetic oil pretty much does that for you. And running synthetic oil where leaded gas is used is not recommended because the spaces between the molecules of the synthetic oil are too small to scavenge the lead with an oil change. The lead then stays behind and causes all kinds of problems, like centrifuging in the crankshaft lube holes, blocking them off. That’s why some manufacturers pulled their synthetic oil for aircraft use. I am retired from GM Engineering and trading, and past member of the SAE.

[@SteveRobReviews]

👍

[@ssgtj2796]

My car comes from the manufacturer stating to USE synthetic Mobil One Oil. Since 2005, I have had ZERO problems with my car(Nissan 350Z). In fact, I now have 283,000 miles on it with no issues and, no oil leaks, smoking or extra oil consumption. ....... Do your own thing folks !

[@SteveRobReviews]

👍

[@joschmoyo4532]

Full synthetic on a Suzuki swift. 11 years old, 340000 klms on the clock. Still runs great and doesn't burn oil. Enough said.

[@SteveRobReviews]

That's great but this video is all about an air cooled Kohler mower engine . Enough said :)

[@fredericdudley6184]

I’ve used it since it came out. Mobile 1, Redline, Royal Purple. Drove a Ford Windstar 485,000 miles on synthetic. I did run regular oil in it for the first two 3000 mile changes. It makes sense that synthetic lubricates so well that the mating surfaces won’t properly align unless you use an inferior oil at the start.

[@Mechone11]

Newer cars and trucks come from factory with synthetic. Newer engines use low tension piston rings to increase mileage. Use of regular oil will destory the engine .Synthetic shines at startup and cold weather

[@robertnbobn7664]

Amsoil 100% synthetic high mileage 0w20. 5 to 8k no leaks. 3 years running. 193k miles now.

[@SteveRobReviews]

Thanks for sharing

[@markcarraway879]

When we built older hot rod engines with Chromoly rings back in the day, we always broke them in with conventional oil. We usually ran Pennzoil because it is pretty poor oil and really allowed those ring packages to seat. Newer engines come with low drag, low tension rings for better fuel economy (speaking of passenger cars and trucks). They will break in fine with synthetic oils. Synthetic oils do last longer as far as break down, but they get dirty and contaminated just as fast as conventional oils. As a technician and OEM automotive instructor for 32+ years I have learned to run Synthetic oil on high performance or engines with power adders (supercharger or turbo), but still change the oil at a 3 to 4k interval because of normal consumption and the oil becoming laden with acids and becoming contaminated with byproducts of combustion. Synthetic oil is superior oil, but a waste of money if it is not needed because it DOES NOT allow extended service intervals in my professional opinion. The biggest problem newer engines face is carbon due to oil burning in the engine from the PCV system causing buildup on Intake valves and causing piton rings to stick to the ring lands of the piston. These issues cause drivability and oil consumption problems because the rings no longer have sealing tension against the cylinder wall, and carbon on the valves absorbs fuel from the injectors. I solve these issues with professional strength engine de-carbonizing chemicals ran through the intake manifold and fuel injectors. I also run catch cans on my PCV systems to capture the oil that causes these conditions. Just my personal observations over the last three decades.

[@BB..........]

I've been running Mobil 1 synthetic in every car and motorcycle I've owned since 1991, and my dad has been using it since the late '70s. We're both big believers in how great it is, and the incredibly low amount of wear and 'gunk' in the engine is impressive. When you see an engine with 150,000 + miles on it, and the cams barely have wear marks, and there's no crap in the valve covers, even in the corners, it shows how great it works.

[@benmartin6476]

Synthetic oil differs only in base oil It’s molecularly perfect where conventional is full of contaminants and is sheer unstable due to differing sizes of the molecular structure

[@dennistaylor6486]

I've been using mobile one in all my rigs for over twenty years and have no problems ever! I have four Harley's and same thing no problems with them either.

[@iguanapete3809]

Wrong. What they are saying is reg. oil wears MORE than syn. You want the rings to wear a little at first to get a good fit against the walls of the cylinder. but all in all syn. oil is better. Fifty years ago I read a test that Popular Mechanics did with "Mobil One". They put it and reg oil in two test tubes. Stuck it in liquid nitrogen. Reg. oil froze. Syn. oil stayed the same viscosity. Then over a Bunsen burner. Reg. oil turn to sludge. Syn. stayed same viscosity. The good thing is it will run for 50,000 miles between o/c. PM did it and the test motor still had honing marks on the cylinder walls. Not that that matters in a lawn mower.

[@garnotte12]

I’m a retired Mobil lubricant specialist for 35 years. Some equipment manufacturers can recommend mineral based oils before using synthetic because mineral oil creates more friction and wear than synthetic oils…so the 1st few hours is for the settling of the moving parts. Use mineral oils If there were no break-in done by the manufacturer. If there was a break-in done, then you can start with synthetic right a way. Kholer or any other small engine doesn’t need synthetic oil. Mobil 1 in those engines is an overkill. Synthetic PAO based Mobil 1 is excellent for any cars and Mobil Delvac 1 ESP is the same for heavy trucks and machineries.

[@shawnwilson183]

I've been using synthetic oil for twenty years in my 1995 ford van. I have 422k miles on the original engine. Never been rebuilt!

[@johnlucier5654]

Thats a modular v8 right... Not uncommon. I know a guy with a similar year the transmission was a POS according to him, and have personally driven a few mustangs of that era with stout engines. Rest of the car was completely falling apart. So its all relative the whole thing lasting 300k might be better.

[@Phil-D83]

Been using left over synthetic from oil changes in my lawn mower and snow blower for years. Marvel mystery oil added to fuel and oil every so often too

[@k.lindsey3529]

Just don't use it in the hydrostatic transaxle or you will pay the price when it fails

[@schussler07]

Literally all I use. All my vehicles are 200k-400k miles and zero issues.

[@boogiemorgan]

I have been using Mobile one extended performance in my my zero turn with 24 HP Kawasaki engine for ten years, mowing my two acre lawn, with no issues what so ever! Runs just as good now as when I first bought it. I just change it annually!

[@SteveRobReviews]

👍

[@radiohead2206]

Yup I sold my own suburban with 800,000 Kms. Mobile 1 Extended performance. Seems to work for me.

[@jerrykoschney5975]

I have run full synthetic oil on two Briggs twins since first oil change one has over two thousand hours one has nine hundred , oldest one puffs a little smoke on start up but uses no oil between fifty hour oil changes. I think the smoke is from fuel as the motor has a manual choke . I use synthetic for the heat rating what better to use on an air cooled motor.

[@deane2974]

Anyone that spends any time working on gas engines knows that you never break in a new or rebuilt motor on synthetic. This is nothing new. Synthetic will not allow the rings to properly seat. That in itself should tell you how good a quality synthetic oil is. I purchased my Cub Cadet 1864 new back in 1993 and after the break in period I have switched to Mobil 1 10w30. After all these years the engine still has good compression and when I do need to go into the motor, mostly to reseal the valve covers there are no deposits and the inside still looks brand new. Dean

[@SteveRobReviews]

👍👍

[@robertjr1254]

I'm cars that's old thought. They are broken in at the factory before you get them with synthetic oil

[@SteveRobReviews]

Iceman Jr . I spent 30 years at GM building cars and trucks . Drove thousands of new cars and trucks off the assembly line and seen exactly how an engine was built and tested and still today manufacturers all recommended new vehicles be driven with lots of caution during the break-in period of about 500 miles or 800 kilometers. New engines are not broke in at the engine plant , they are tested but not broken in 100% . From the time the engine is fired up till it lands at the dealer most have a total run time of about 1- 2 hours at most .

[@JP-yp2yw]

@@SteveRobReviews so what choice do you have when your new vehicle calls for 0-20w oil?? I have never seen a conventional oil with that viscosity. I have been using Mobil 1 0-20w synthetic in my '15 Accord with no issues.

[@SteveRobReviews]

JP Just follow the manufacturers recommendations and you can't go wrong .

[@ge4645]

I have two Dodge trucks both with 5.7 hemi engines in them...one has 240.000 k miles the other has 189.000 k miles both use 5-20 full synthetic since day one...they both still run strong...no oil leaks or internal wear...

[@georgemattar1705]

I have used nothing but Mobil 1 5W 20 in my 03 Grand Marquis for 140,000 miles. Does not burn oil. Does not leak.

[@barrygrant2907]

Back in the late '70s a car magazine ran a test on the then,0new Mobil 1 oil. The took a brand-new Corvette, filled it with Mobil 1, and ran it for 50,000 miles. At that point they tore down the engine for inspection and found the cylinder walls still had the hone marks on them. It was recommended not to use M-1 on a new engine but highly recommended it after a break-in period. I used it in my Toyota after it had 10,000 miles on it and the mileage jumped from 28-29 MPG to 33-34 MPG and the normal operating temp dropped noticeably. Good stuff but will slow a break in.

[@matjj676]

Exactly. I've been saying this for years. Do not use synthetic for the break in period, and maybe some time after that to ensure things have fully seated. After that, its what I use for my vehicles.

[@hazardcountyusa]

I use synthetic in everything. My son ran out of oil and drove until it wouldn't go any farther. Fixed the leak. Filled it back up with synthetic. Started it and drove 20k more miles

[@EATSLEEPDRIVE2002]

My 2002 Volkswagen GTI (1.8 Turbo) just kicked over 319,000 miles on mobile1 synthetic 0W-40. Original bearings, valve train, everything.

[@LuisCruz-hv8nz]

My brother is a airplane mechanic and l ask him what type of oil you guys uses in airplane he said Mobil 1 full synthetic l am positive these guys knows more than the average you tuber no pun intended

[@SteveRobReviews]

You should have shown him the video because it's not about airplane engines .

[@thewhitedeath586]

Bro have you not seen airplanes falling apart? Jesus I'd take that as a red flag for sure. Just Google commercial airplanes falling apart.

[@javaman2883]

I've been using synthetic oil in all my cars since mid 90s, including my first car which was built in the 60s. I prefer the 5-6k miles change intervals rather than 3k. Since my newst car has 98k miles already, and my oldest had 385k, I don't think it's a problem.

[@MrSeth166]

Back in 1990 I bought my first used 1988 Chevy Silverado V8 305 engine with 160k miles here in California and the first thing I did a good oil flush and put Mobil 1 synthetic oil I drove it until it had 310k miles and I never had any oil leaks or any problems it passed the smog inspections it always run smood I sold my truck to a friend of mine who was always bugging me that he wanted to buy my bad ass truck because I painted in a Viper yellow color so I sold it to him then he moved to Texas to this day he still has that truck with the same engine... Synthetic oil rocks!!!

[@SteveRobReviews]

👍

[@smoke2275]

The reason for this is, molecules that make up the oils are arranged differently. Conventional oil molecules are arranged into a sort of clump where as the synthetic oil molecules are arranged into a linear chain. This is where many myths come from such as “synthetic oils cause leaks”. The oil doesn’t CAUSE a leak, rather synthetic oil is able to pass through more easily due to the molecular arrangement. If you had a length of chain and held it by one end you could easily drop it down a small hole. If you were to take the same bit of chain and bunch it up into a ball, it would no longer fit into the same hole. It’s exactly the same principle just scaled up a billion times. All that being said, one oil type is not better or worse than the other. It just comes down to the engine and condition of the engine as to what is better to use.

[@diegopalomino1200]

Mobil 1 is all i use on all my vehicles, I was using it in my 94 Honda Accord that was still running when I donated it to a non profit, original engine and transmission. The transmission was starting to slip and that is why I bought a 2014 Toyota Avalon, which still runs like the day it was brand new. My Nissan Frontier and Avalon use Mobil 1 oil and nothing else, full synthetic of course. Maintenance is very important.

[@garycarbonneau499]

After breakin syn.oil will give the best protection.....period! I have raced both 2 strokes and 4 strokes and have done constant internal checks on the engines. Synthetic oil shows FAR LESS WEAR than mineral based oils.

[@skking3092]

Buy a quality lawn tractor with a quality engine, use synthetic and run it forever

[@SteveRobReviews]

That's the plan!

[@lukewarmwater6412]

synthetic oil can leak. it isnt a problem with the oil, but a problem with the seals and gaskets. the synthetics can get through smaller spaces so leaks will occur. also some of the additives can react with the seals and make them soft and cause failure. synthetic oil is 'engineered' in a way that makes the oil particles a more uniform size, so it works better to prevent friction, seating in rings sometimes requires some friction and if you use synthetics, it takes alot longer to seat rings etc. so, use conventional oil to break in an engine and then switch to synthetic. you should change the oil on a new engine (in a car etc.) at 300, 600 and 1200-1500 miles anyway just to get rid of anything that might have not been cleaned out before initial startup. bits of lint from rags, assembly lube, cause that stuff clogs filters (yes change the filter with the oil!) and then, when everything has bedded in use synthetc oil, cause it prevents friction better and less friction means more power.

[@christopherl2143]

Right Like The Sump Pump On Briggs and Stratton cyclonic Motors.

[@tim2applecell323]

I agree with all that, I have one car that I use synthetic oil it’s low miles. Anything with carburetor I run diesel oil for the zinc level protection on cam and lifters. Shell turbo diesel rotela is good.

[@normansilver905]

I have used Mobil sinc 1998 in a vehicle I own. That vehicle now has 188,000 miles on it and is still running fine.

[@RetrieverTrainingAlone]

Synthetic oil is used by everyone in cars and trucks up here in interior Alaska where it is -40 every winter....conventional 5W30 pours thicker than honey at -40 while 5W30 synthetic pours easily at -40 degrees.

[@whitepontiac1]

Mobile 1 oil or synthetic oil is ok to use I've never had trouble with it at all

[@feloniousmonk3049]

STD break in petroleum based non synthetic motor oil has been known about for over 40 years. I've always considered it common knowledge in gasoline and diesel powered engines and the enthusiast owners. This is why they don't recommend early oil changes on new motors. Run the engine the proper amount of hours or miles on the break in oil. I'd even go so far as to use a regular petroleum based motor oil for your first oil change, too, before going to a full synthetic motor oil.

[@JohnDoesGarage]

I am 64 and I have been a mechanic for over forty years and I have always used conventional oil to break-in every engine I have ever rebuilt or bought new. It doesn't matter, car, truck, motorcycle, or lawn mower. After break-in I use Mobil 1 as well, and I use Rotella T full synthetic in diesel engines I own.

[@eziusss]

everything is clear here. synthetic oil has too good lubrication specifications and during the first 50 hours, the engine must rub/grind, therefore, for the first 50 hours, a lubricant with poorer lubrication properties is recommended. After the first 50 hours, you can use synthetic oil and the engine will be better from that. Of course, changing the oil will be twice as expensive :)

[@WesProphecy2032]

My Chevy Cobalt engine lasted to 345,000 miles before some idiot tboned me. It would have easily reached 400,000 miles. Used Mobile 1 5wx30 full synthetic after the initial 30,000 miles.

[@boydgrandy5769]

The reason that you don't put synthetic oil in new IC engines is because the oil retains viscosity and lubrication qualities better than natural oils, mostly because of the structure and length of the long carbon chain molecules that make up the oil. Synthetic oil will not allow for the wear that is needed to allow the rings to seat and seal against the cylinder wall. Even 45 years ago, when Mobil brought out their first synthetic oil product, tear down of the test engines they ran it in for publicity showed that the machining marks on the cylinder walls were almost fully intact after 200,000 miles. Especially now that piston ring tension in the new low pressure engines is lower, and because of fairly loose machining tolerances in all of the engine makers, they rely on break in seating of the rings to provide vapor and oil sealing. Basically, you are performing the final machining of your engine piston rings in the break in period. Once the car is broken in properly, the use of synthetics would appear to limit further bore and ring wear much better than oils derived from crude oil sources. Plus, the added bonus to be enjoyed is that the synthetic product will retain lubrication properties superior to regular oil because even as it breaks down, the synthetic molecule chains will remain longer and more efficient, making it possible to put 10-12K miles on it before you have to replace it, as opposed to 3-5K miles for regular oil. You have to change filters regularly, though.

[@duanepayne1805]

We've put 209,000 miles on my wife's 2005 Chevrolet using full synthetic oil and it still runs great. We've had no problems at all and it still does not burn oil.

[@murraygaulding648]

It’s because the synthetic lubricant is so good that the engines moving parts can not wear in to a married perfect fit during break in time. After break in time it will be better not to have the wear so it’s much better to use the synthetic oils for no wear at all. This is all the manufacturers are trying to do b

[@Maurice-c6z]

That's right

[@mplscarsales6652]

I use Full sythetic not synthetic blend . If your leaking oil it’s because you have a leak .full synthetic won’t leak if you don’t have a problem in the first place if your already leaking then keep using the same .just flows better .

[@gsxrsquid]

Another intelligent voice in a wilderness of ignorance. Thank you!

[@jerryfacts9749]

I did engine and manual transmission rebuilds, and worked on some high performance cars. When the engine is newly built with the cylinders re-bored and with new rings, bearings, and etc., it is best to break in the engine with regular oil. Conventional oil allows for normal wear on a newly built or rebuilt engine. With cars it is best to drive the car for about 4000 miles before making its first oil change. Use conventional type oil for another 4000 miles. Then you can go to synthetic oil for the rest of the engine's life. It is important to change the oil at normal intervals. This is to clean out carbon that gets in to the oil, and clean out any pollution or dirt that may get in to the oil. Through the life of any engine there will be some very fine microscopic size metal particles from normal wear. Changing the oil rids of them. As the oil is used and ages it also starts to change its lubrication qualities. I like to change my oil every 6000 miles or ever6 months whatever comes first. I use synthetic oil only. I use the type of oil recommended by the manufacture. Many of the auto manufactures now break in the engines at factory before installing them in to the vehicles. They do the break in using regular engine oil. Then they change the oil for synthetic oil when installing the engine in to the vehicle. When receiving your new car, even though the dealer may tell you the engine is broken in, it is best to go easy on it for the first 4000 miles or so. Drive at varying speeds, and don't use cruise control. Avoid letting the RPMs go past 4000. Go easy on the starts. Avoid hard acceleration very often. Don't tow heavy loads. The transmission and drive train have to also be broken in. After the vehicle is past 4000 miles or so and is working on synthetic oil you can drive it how you want. Like anything with engines and drive trains, if you very often kick ass on the vehicle you will reduce the life span of the engine and drive train. Avoid spinning the tires when starting off. This plays hell on the transmission and the differential. The drive train is designed to be able to take a lot of forward torque. It is when the tires stop spinning there is the reverse torque effect to the drive train for a few milliseconds (few thousandths of a second) even though the vehicle is moving forward. It is at the instance where the wheels stop spinning that the bearings and gear teeth take the huge amount of shock. Because the isometric torque affect on the output shaft of the engine and transmission is very high when accelerator is pressed down very hard this is where there is greater wear of the seals. If you want to greatly increase your engine and drive train life span to be in your favour drive the vehicle easy. Drive it like you are driving a limo. Go easy on the starts and go easy on the stops. You will also save a lot of fuel, tires, and break maintenance cost.

[@angeldelgado7189]

OPINAR A ESTO, ES SER NECIO, USTED LO DIJO, CLARO Y PRECISO, GRASIAS.

[@kimbertels4365]

I bought a 2020 Rokon powered by a 7hp Kohler. Rokon recommended breaking in with organic oil so that`s what I did. After break in period, I will be using Amzoil. Great Video!

[@backwoodheathen]

I use synthetic oil in everything, although all those engines were broke in on standard oils. Never a problem with any of the engines

[@SteveRobReviews]

👍

[@AnthonyJ350]

We put synthetic oil in all our early 2000 vehicles and our Generac generator. No issues.

[@lieberfreialsgleich]

I only use sythetic oil since 1988. BMW, Porsche, Mercedes, Renault, Alfa Romeo, Peugeot, new used and even vintage cars. We never had any engine problems.

[@johnpower8356]

Engine building has changed, we used to finish hone the bores with 180-×220 grit silicon carbide stones, very coarse cross hatch, rings took a long time to seat. Today they are finished with 320-400 grit stones, almost no break-in period and the rest of an engine doesn't need much. Its broken in as much as its goings to get first couple start-ups. Thats the difference with it using a little oil during break-in. Its almost not needed today

[@bobw2776]

What he states is true. There has to be a wear-in (where they actually wear out a little) period for the piston rings to seal to the cylinder walls. After that period is when you want as little wear on them as possible for longer engine life.

[@SteveRobReviews]

👍

[@leonidas953]

Standard oil doesn’t have the lubricity of synthetic oils so a new engine will not allow the pistons and piston rings to cut and seat. New engines are run on standard oil before they leave assembly plant that is the reason they state synthetic oil can be used immediately. Synthetic oils are vastly superior to standard oil. My background building engines 30 years. Not sure if still available or same formulation but the old Slick 50 additive will make engine seizure veritably impossible because of very high lubrocity.

[@slanlesnee9538]

Don't use synthetic oil. Oh, you can use synthetic oil. What He meant to say is don't use synthetic oil if you have a Kohler engine and not during the first 50 hours during break-in.

[@MiltiadisXman]

95 Buick Roadmaster bought it used with 30K and used 10W30 Mobil1 regular (NOT high mileage) ever since. Has 130K now, minor leaks from the front, burns 1mm on the dipstick every 4K miles of an oil change.

[@DonaldAJr]

I've been using 100% Synthetic Amsoil and all of my vehicles, mowers, and toys for over 16 years. All I can say is I love it because it's 25,000 miles or 1 year. So it is a win-win to me.

[@ihave35cents95]

Because it has zinc in it I have to use it in my older cars

[@Acestogie]

Amsoil is the only oil i use in my motorcycle for the past 20 years. No problems.

[@resharddurdley6987]

Ive used Amsoil in everything past 35 years. John Deere, Case, Kubota, 2007 F250 6.0, 397k miles on Amsoil. Ford F150 2005 310k miles on amsoil. 2022 F350 6.7 Tremor, Amsoil @ 13 miles 2021 Ford Explorer Timberline, Amsoil @ 7 miles

[@daniellang6112]

amsoil signature series all the way!

[@jackschwab3905]

That is common knowledge ,rings have to seat . Same thing for roller cam hot rod engines have to run on regular oil an hour or two . Synthetic will take longer to seat but not an issue