DO NOT Use This Insulation for a Cabin Cathedral Ceiling or This Could Happen - EP 59

[@TheCookster64]

I only use Rockwool. It's water, fire, bug and mouse proof. I've only ever found one mouse nest in it and the nest had been abandoned. Your point is excellent though. Rockwool is un-faced so it meets the goal.

[@TheDIYCabinGuy]

Thanks for sharing!

[@_Wake_Up_If_U_Can]

I was going to post the same thing. Our 1890 house was built with air flowing through all the walls and zero insulation. It is hard to keep the temperature stable to keep it comfortable. We have been adding rockwool in walls when we open them over the years. Makes a huge difference not only for temperature stability but also makes it much quieter! Although the double pane Pella windows we installed made the biggest difference.

[@blkicemike4857]

@@_Wake_Up_If_U_Can ,. I have had same issue with my parents house,. They had it built new in ‘76,. I have acquired the ole’homeplace since their passing,. Many remodel job to complete and have completed,. My biggest quandary is with the insulation,.. hardly any in the attic,. The walls it’s nonexistent,. So I started do similarly as you,. When open up a wall section I’d insulate with sections of foam for sound deadening,.. I have found that spray foam works really well also,. I just don’t get it though; How the hell did those big name contractors get away with not insulating houses bak then??? I’m sure mom n pop were charged for it,. But probably like with extra wood,. Item ordered for one job site, too much ordered just so it’s taken to another site,. I have seen this many times over the years,. Actually had a guy order 28 yards of concrete on a job we were in ;inground pool, everything was complete except for concrete deck around,. I measured and calculated 12yrds. Concrete truk driver went ahead and ordered 28yrds and charged me for them,. When 1st truck came I noticed only 3yrds were pours,. So I went followed truck down road and stopped him,. It was still almost full,. So I had em park up road, as other 4trucks came off driveway I stopped them as well except for last truck and followed him to another site,. What had happened I’m sure u already figured it out!?!? He booked two jobs to pour charged me for concrete ,. Ordered enough to pour both sites,. So basically the other job was ALL PROFIT!! He was getting concrete for free,. To say least ,. (Sorry for rambling on) I ended up getting my whole driveway poured ,. Hell why not,? I paid for it,.! I first tried to get em to take it bak to concrete plant,. They refused due to it being already mixed,. So I said he’ll I’ll pour it over dam mountain before I’ll let someone take me for a fool !! A shame can’t trust your contractors u work with!!

[@broman21]

@@blkicemike4857 I do insulation full time, almost every single house I have worked on, 1-2 homes a day, I have found multiple things that were done incorrectly or lazily, the proper way is the best way, but it's the most time consuming, and if you are in it for profit rather than doing the proper job, you will find many things missed just to save time. Unfortunate but it's that way everywhere, only way to fix it is to redo or fix their work going step by step.

[@jacobkincaid123]

with using this product, do you still need the baffles?

[@frotobaggins7169]

I like your attention to detail. Tape the seam in the vent pipe with foil tape to keep it from springing open. The seam joint is called a Pittsburgh join and often they aren't fully formed. If you close the female side a little bit it fits tighter. Always tape the seams.

[@TheDIYCabinGuy]

Great tip!

[@swordedaffair]

Another reason to tape the seam is to prevent the duct from leaking - it isn't really sealed until it has been taped.

[@michaelprosperity3420]

Nice. Once you get to the smell of fresh cut pine on the finishing is the most rewarding. The tedious behind the scenes where the rubber meets the road.

[@TheDIYCabinGuy]

Thanks !

[@JorgeAguilar714]

To appease some of the keyboard comandos, you can use some Rockwool comfort board as the protection layer under the cabin. It will add more insulation value, a fire barrier, animals won’t nest in it and also stop the thermal bridging at the floor joists which is what you were panning on achieving with your foam panels and plywood. Good job.

[@TheDIYCabinGuy]

Thanks !

[@robertlivingston1634]

Mice and squirrels are perfectly happy to nest in your rock wool, little bastards just don't care what they're not supposed to like.

[@whitehorse1961]

Yup, the a holes made nests in rock wool like it’s nobody’s business. Even my cats like rock wool .

[@TheDIYCabinGuy]

@@whitehorse1961 hopefully me having the hardware cloth plus some rigid foam insulation plus 3/4 in pressure treated plywood will slow them down some.

[@freeman3978]

get a dog or cat haha, thatll slow them all the way down to dead@@TheDIYCabinGuy

[@phyllismccurdy2984]

You have done a fabulous job making your cabin air tight and rodent proof. Great job! 👏 Lots of hard work. Love your videos. 🙋🏻‍♀️🇨🇦

[@TheDIYCabinGuy]

Thanks so much!

[@aservant2287]

Lol. Good job A... lol it's installed backwards. The bat goes to the inside. If it was inspected it would fail.

[@paullockyer7230]

if you have an angle grinder it can be used to quickly and easily cut hardware cloth.

[@TheDIYCabinGuy]

That makes sense!

[@LarchLine]

We are building our own cabin too. We are going to use mineral wool and double bubble alumin foil because it is acting as extra insulation plus as vapor barier, overlapped, and taped it with aluminum foil. Under the roof we are doing the same, with the higher R value insulation but we are waiting for warmer weather because we want to apply 3 in of closed cell foam first to encapsulate it ( is going to be unvented) and then place the mineral wool leaving 3/4 in of air gap and bubble foil, then dry wall painted with 2-3 coats of latex paint to act as an extra vapor barrier. Probably, the entire inside will be painted with 2 coats min of latex paint for added vapor barrier. A lot of work, regardless of what type of insulation is used

[@TheDIYCabinGuy]

Sounds like a good plan !

[@emanuel2cool1]

The looking around in the forest while holding the fiberglass insulation had me LOL!

[@TheDIYCabinGuy]

Lol you know those dang rodents are just waiting for it

[@azkjack]

At the gable ends: where the framing blocked tve venting, you could have drilled several vent holes to connect to your vent baffles from bottom to top.

[@DavidWilliam-nv8ij]

Hello. I like your attention to detail. Did you consider adding full sheets of foam insulation ON TOP of your subfloor followed by another layer of plywood, instead of installing batt insulation between the floor joists? This would eliminate thermal bridging through the floor joists and would be far easier I think.

[@TheDIYCabinGuy]

Interesting! My plan is to add some rigid foam boards to the underside of the floor joists

[@mrcryptozoic817]

In 1995 I built a cabin 24x32 at on a mountain at 7200 ft and used 14" SIPS, instead of conventional insulation. It has been perfect.

[@TheDIYCabinGuy]

Nice!

[@furthereast6775]

Insulation is one thing that studying Internet does not resolve as I'm building The heartfelt opinions about vapor barrier air, barrier, ventilation, and materials are all over the place, very little consensus My inspector advised to just do the simplest thing that meets code

[@richardthompson7702]

Code is the minimum requirement. To understand home performance building is relatively simple: ventilation/convection, condensation, radiation. Appropriate plans begin with knowing your local environmental conditions, home occupancy, and then what are the starting materials. At te beginning of this video, he states he used 2x10 for the insulation to fit R-30. If you're starting with 2x6 then stuffing R-30 will decrease insulation performance. You'll need to look for an insulation/sheathing system that fits your budget/code/performance desires. Retrofitting rockwool has an advantage of allowing ventilation and allowing condensation to escape. Isocyane foam is better R value and partial vapor barrier. Think of it as an insulating membrane.

[@MesaBoogieman82]

@@furthereast6775 use it the way the manufacturer says to.

[@dougfraser8698]

Hey Tristan,you made that look easy lol ,in our cottage we are building here in Ontario we used the rockwool on the walls and spray foamed the ceiling ,cost me 11000.00 just for the ceiling, it took me awhile to get the hang of installing the rockwall ,we are using 6 mm plastic vapor barrier, curious as the the vapour barrier you have going on in your next video,never thought about planning the blocking tho so hope I dont have a problem when we start the drywall come spring , keep the videos coming,thank you,, Doug

[@TheDIYCabinGuy]

Im curious how much I would have been charged to get someone to spray foam the ceiling. The air barrier / vapor barrier I used is called intello plus, I’ll cover that in the next episode.

[@frankrobinson5453]

At my lake house in south Texas, I re-did a cathedral ceiling upstairs. I used perforated hardie plank soffits outside and instead of those preformed plastic baffles to the ridge vent, I used 1" thick Styrofoam sheets cut into strips the width of the joists and used 1x2's to space the gap between the roofing plywood and the insulation sheeting. My thought was this gives me more R value in my ceiling after adding the fiberglass insulation. That was 10 years ago and the Texas summer heat does not make the house as hot as before I did this install. Previous ceiling was plywood, fiberglass and 1/4" paneling. Ugh.

[@stewartcaldwell5299]

Lucky you're young. I'm 72. All of that arm movement would take me so long, I'd never finish. Good job!

[@TheDIYCabinGuy]

Thanks

[@jerryf609]

Its not heavy work but it is work. Great job

[@TheDIYCabinGuy]

Surely still took a decent amount of time !

[@Barret_Radtke]

i installed my insulation in my floor before i built the rest of the structure i used R20 pink insulation in my floor and ceiling, i screwed plywood to the under side to keep out pests.

[@TheDIYCabinGuy]

I wanted to do that but would have never managed to keep it dry

[@Barret_Radtke]

@@TheDIYCabinGuy somehow i managed to keep mine dry lol. thankfully, had the floor covered with a tarp till i build the structure luckily had no major water issues did have some decent rain but lately not much rain around here i never put any of that ventilation stuff in my ceiling, i hope its not going to be a problem lol.

[@ForceMyGarnetHand]

When you install the Hardware cloth, make sure to run it the same direction as the joists. If you go perpendicular to the joists you will create a gap between the layers and animals (especially raccoons) will find it. Also, you should use PVC coated hardware cloth so you don’t have to do it again. Depending on how humid your area is, the regular hardware cloth will rust out after a few years.

[@TheDIYCabinGuy]

Great points !

[@LsXnation.WFOArmy]

He definitely shows you where you can go from overkill into the waste of money/time just by not knowing what to do or what to use and where to use it, but.. there is sometimes when "just enough" does seem to actually work for us..

[@eliinthewolverinestate6729]

Use bubble wrap under floor boards, vapor barrier on the ground, and a good skirting. Mineral wool and only use spray foam around windows and doors. Fiberglass sucks in a building that is not always heated or ventilated. It will absorb moisture. We put down tongue and groove on our rafters, underlayment, mineral wool, roof decking screwed into rafters, more underlayment, and a metal roof. I am off grid so needed a passive ventilation system. And since we won't be there 24/7. I have a timber frame and north masonry wall. So know there will be some moisture that needs to be let out. And it won't be heated in winter.

[@614x2]

If insulation is used below the roof sheathing, cold air must be able to flow between the insulation and the interior side of the roof sheathing (2 inch air space). You'll also need to have ventilated soffit and ventilated ridge vent. Or, you could put rigid insulation above the plywood roof sheathing and then heat and cool the attic or cathedral portion of the roof.

[@TheDIYCabinGuy]

Yes I do have a ventilated roof assembly with baffles that provide a continuous space between my ventilated soffit and the ridge vent on the roof.

[@archiehendricks6093]

The guy is right, the brown paper is intended by dow corning to be applied and stapled interior wall studs.

[@johnj5985]

The folded edges on the paper are designed to "fold over" onto the stud face and stapled.

[@hamrah2941]

Looks amazing. One question though. For the baffels, wouldn't the water trickle down to the bottom and then pool up there as the baffels are installed to not extend out to the soffits, rather right to the wood blocking where you stapled the baffel to?

[@TheDIYCabinGuy]

That’s a good question, hopefully the flow of air dries any condensation and doesn’t let any significant amount of moisture to build up

[@daysoff4ever]

you have it installed backwards!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[@TheDIYCabinGuy]

😱😱😱

[@christianheidt5733]

Yup, but I will never use that product again, dense styrofoam is the way to go.

[@MesaBoogieman82]

Looks really itchy

[@TheDIYCabinGuy]

@@MesaBoogieman82 😂😂😂

[@mr.mr400]

😭😭😭

[@archiehendricks6093]

Alot of that insulation is 15 inches wide, so 16 inches on center has rafters extending 3/4 inches into insulation space on each side.

[@mostrico]

what a great idea to use that mesh man!

[@TheDIYCabinGuy]

Thanks!

[@adelhey100]

Made that mistake and had black mold on my sheeting. Also didn't have a very good roof vent at the time so double-whammy. Not to mention the mice loved it. Fixed the roof and insulated with rigid foam.

[@TheDIYCabinGuy]

Doesn’t sounds like fun! Glad you fixed it

[@adelhey100]

@@TheDIYCabinGuy Found that issue while fixing another bigger one with the roof. Mistakes you make when you build a cabin at 27 with minimal carpentry experience 🤷

[@TheDIYCabinGuy]

@@adelhey100 oh well, we are all just learning here

[@Jimbogf]

My cathedral ceiling garage had r-13 faced insulation. The sheetrock starting falling off the ceiling with black mold everywhere. nightmare.

[@TheDIYCabinGuy]

☹️ sounds awful

[@bengt_axle]

I've watched many videos on insulating the floor and many KZbinrs end up doing what you do: insulating from underneath. Why not put the wire mesh down when the floor joists are being installed and then fill the spaces between the joists before putting on the subfloor material? In other words, why does everyone work from underneath when they could drop the insulation down? Also, is there some kind of breathable material that can be put behind the screen to prevent the incursion of insects into the insulation?

[@TheDIYCabinGuy]

It’s a simple answer, If I did what you described, the insulation would have gotten wet and would have been completely trashed. You can’t really insulate until you’re dried in, meaning you have a roof on to keep the place dry.

[@pbayers]

​@TheDIYCabinGuy yep, exactly. Thats why its nice to have a decent size crawl space. I used to build smaller crawlspaces but it just makes it really hard to get underneath later so i started making them a lot taller

[@oring137]

Are baffles needed if you have no ridge vent at the peak of the roof?

[@TheDIYCabinGuy]

If you have no ridge vent then it would be useless to have baffles id think

[@_Wake_Up_If_U_Can]

How do the external walls deal with water? Looks like there are horizontal gaps of 1 or 2 inches every 8 to 12 inches? When it rains or snow or ice melts where does the water go?

[@TheDIYCabinGuy]

It’s just part of the siding, water would get on it, and then dry.

[@TheMrDrMs]

What about the gap along the beam? Just relying on the baffles for 'sealing' that?

[@TheDIYCabinGuy]

Good point, I’m hoping that there won’t be too much air being forced in from the ridge vent

[@COCCOMOJOE]

Wouldn't Rock wool be better for the underside?

[@TheDIYCabinGuy]

Not sure, some other people commented having issues with rodents even with rock wool

[@COCCOMOJOE]

@@TheDIYCabinGuy I was thinking it was more for the fire, sound, and water retardant that rock wool offers. I'm not sure about the rodents.

[@bobstewart4342]

propper vent in all the ceiling bays is a must or you'll have no airflow

[@johndough1966]

THIS is correct. Any attempt at adequate insulation with a proper vapour barrier will only work as well if the air above can be ventilated. Without ventilation, warm air will only collect and thus create moisture. The floor insulation should also include a vapour barrier over the joists, before sheeting. Alternatively, best practice would be closed-cell spray foam which will create a vapour barrier in itself and not be penetrated 5000 times with fasteners as poly vapour barrier would end up.

[@chrismagnum2710]

​@@johndough1966he put the vapor barrier which is the " face" in first when it should be at the bottom. Seal all that with CDX and call it done

[@ronb6182]

Faced insulation should be put on with the paper side toward the living space like it says on the batt. I dont know about ceiling. But in the closed in garage we put the paper side up in the attic which is wtong but there was no moisture mold to be had take this advice in this video with a grain of salt. I will use unfaced and put my own vapor over the insulation, then put the boards on. I like the foil type of vapor barior. 73

[@Me-dx5zb]

where the insulation is against your roof you just install foam baffles too allow air flow from soffit to the ridgeline...it will not sweat or mold . Faced insulation has been used for decades .

[@ronb6182]

@@Me-dx5zb dad never insulated the roof line just the ceiling . He used 3 and a half faced insulation with the paper toward the living space our house was never cold. They back in the fifties did not use 6 or more inches. Only in the garage part was cold. The celler part was warm enough and where the furnace was it was real warm. We had an electronic work bench there with an old telephone operator stool with arms. The garage was cold but who cares you don't live in that part. Only store junk. And lawnmowers. I practiced piano downstairs in the celler because I liked that old upright better than the one upstairs the action was more forceful on that old early teen piano. Back to insulation. If you insulate the roof the snow won't melt it could be three feet of snow up there I would rather have a bare roof in the winter. The farm house had no heat in the attic and we had icicles from the roof to the ground over ten feet long. Had the attic had heat which we put later the roof was bare just like home. Fuel was not a problem we had a natural gas well on the farm. Well my parents sold the farm then the cottage at a lake and then our home and we moved to Florida and froze in the winter because the lack of insulation and the cold concrete slab we had to walk on. Carpet is no insulation. 73

[@ronb6182]

@@Me-dx5zb faced insulation is old school and I told why it was not used on the roof line. Snow has to melt if it gets too deep. Some people put heating elements on their pitched roof that wastes electric. There are better materials. If I had a metal roof I would have insulation board (foam) under the metal to cut down rain storm noise. 73

[@MrBobbybrus]

Baffles are inexpensive and allow air circulation to soffit vents. Then you can use vapor barrier insulation.

[@jamess6489]

Where is his roof vents

[@getintothewildwithjeffruma8777]

You did a great job👍

[@TheDIYCabinGuy]

Thank you! 😊

[@warrenlucier5796]

I'll be doing it the same way, but with rockwool insulation as it doesn't burn or mold.

[@TheDIYCabinGuy]

👍

[@armyranger9346]

The paper backing on the insulation goes to the outside, it is to keep dirt and debris out of the batting and makes it possible to staple the batting in place. Making the baffles in the ceiling air tight, totally defeats the purpose of the baffles. Their very purpose is to allow moist air inside the cabin to vent outside. Once you make them air tight, the most air cannot vent out of the cabin. The bottom of the baffles will be much cooler than the warm moist air making its way through the insulation, so now it's going to condensate between the baffle and the insulation.

[@jimr9898]

Per code, in warm/humid climates the vapor barrier/paper facing goes to the outside, in cold climates the vapor barrier/paper faces the inside. Also, to cut fiberglass it is easier to use a board or straight edge to compress the batt and use a sharp knife/razor knife to cut it.

[@armyranger9346]

@@jimr9898 Please provide the code.

[@teamdada2194]

Inside ranger smartin up

[@timpalmer-logstolumber1999]

The baffles are used in attics to allow air from the soffits to reach the exit vents higher up the roof. This keeps the attic from getting to hot.

[@timpalmer-logstolumber1999]

The paper on the insulation is a vapor barrier, it should be on the inside or the unfaced should be covered with a 4 mil plastic as a vapor barrier.

[@Robinhood179]

If Ive learned one thing reading comments on countless insulation videos its this: Nobody does it the same and nobody seems to know for sure the best way to prevent mold. So confusing.

[@TheDIYCabinGuy]

It is a confusing topic!

[@barrioaudio]

So the 4” duct has to be crimped to join it to the exterior vent. Look for a 5-blade crimper. You can use it for duct work and downspouts.

[@TheDIYCabinGuy]

Thanks!

[@blkicemike4857]

What about the foil type insulation for the ceiling instead of fiberglass type???

[@TheDIYCabinGuy]

Could have worked as long as I could have gotten an R38 out of it which I’m unsure if that’s possible

[@blkicemike4857]

@@TheDIYCabinGuy from what I have read,. If u layer it up ,. Each new layer maker R value more each time,. Hell that’s gonna run into more money that way though,. I despise fiberglass insulation,. Im allergic to it,. So anytime I can stir clear of it I will,. If cost efficient,.

[@jpaul309]

GREAT JOB MAN! I LIKE YOUR ATTENTION TO DETAILS! 👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽

[@TheDIYCabinGuy]

Thanks! 👍

[@curlydave7689]

1. I would suggest insulating the bathroom completely on every wall, interior and exterior. Grunt, groan, and make disgusting noises in there and the sound will not carry too much to the outside. Along a similar line, you may need an exhaust fan inside the bathroom. Do not waste your money on a expensive, very quiet one. Instead get the least expensive one which will provide white noise to cover any sound from the bathroom and let you know if anyone has left it running.

[@TheDIYCabinGuy]

Hey! Yes, if you keep watching you’ll see I ended up putting insulation in the interior bathroom wall. So I did get a very very quiet fan but it also came with a built in speaker so I guess people can play some music if they feel like they’ll need to cover up some sounds 🤣

[@retiredlogman]

If you do not place a plastic moisture barrier beneath the ceiling you will have condensation problems. The fact that you did the venting below the roof deck is only a part of the system. I know because I manufactured custom log homes for many years. I saw when people cut corners and the damage it did.

[@TheDIYCabinGuy]

Check the next video, I completely sealed it with intello

[@blkicemike4857]

Bruda u absolutely killin Engerish😂 language,. Jus tryna hlp,..It’s called a,” row’dent. Not a rod’ain’t,.. I still can’t figure out what u called the wire screen u placed as a barrier,. However you are getting there!! Good luck with future endeavors,.. also I think insulation was supposed toe paper side out so ucan staple it to studs,.✌️😎

[@TheDIYCabinGuy]

😭😭😭

[@umchoyka]

Lots of rockwool salesmen in your audience. Pink insulation is just fine, ignore the haters. Venting eliminates the mold issue, and the rest of the construction looks well thought out and executed so there should be no moisture problems.

[@TheDIYCabinGuy]

Thanks !

[@donaldstrickland8093]

Other than cost why not use foam for the floor and walls then that insulation for the ceiling or would that have still been too much moisture if not adding a exhaust fan

[@TheDIYCabinGuy]

Just didn’t feel like paying someone to spray foam

[@donaldstrickland8093]

@@TheDIYCabinGuy ok but what would have been the difference in it's cost just out of curiosity if you checked

[@TheDIYCabinGuy]

@@donaldstrickland8093 that’s a great point! I actually didn’t even try to get a quote. You’re absolutely right, I could have saved myself a lot of time BUT I’m just stupidly stubborn and want to do everything myself 🤣

[@greenspiraldragon]

Doesn't matter if you use faced or unfaced as long as the facing is pointed the correct way. The problem comes when you don't have correct ventilation.

[@TheDIYCabinGuy]

Makes sense!

[@nofascists]

You sound like an amature. You also sound like an amature who has done his homework and comprehends why you do what you do. Meticulously paying attention to the details is huge. There's no way you would have achieved better results if you hired professionals (probably worse). Those, like you, who have the time, intellect, aptitude, and patience to do it themselves on their own project are miles ahead on quality workmanship. Well done sir. P.S. I hope you wired your cathedral ceiling for a couple of ceiling fans. Very important.

[@TheDIYCabinGuy]

Yes there will be a ceiling fan

[@billcody2685]

Yeah the brown paper side has side flaps that just fold out to lay on the bottom of the joist so that you can staple it on the intensive what are you thinking ?

[@TheDIYCabinGuy]

Paper towards heated space ?

[@billcody2685]

Yes paper should be to the interior however first should be a moisture barrier the plastic is put on last inside prior to sheetrock

[@junkemails5050]

How to know if i need put the paper face against the wood surface or away from It?

[@TheDIYCabinGuy]

If you used faced insulation then the paper goes towards the inside of the house.

[@JohnNickels-g3b]

Acetone cleans up the foam nozzles, and us

[@TheDIYCabinGuy]

👍

[@MalleusDei275]

Foam board makes an excellent air/ vapo/ insulation barrier....

[@TheDIYCabinGuy]

Yes, I also thought about using that

[@ronb6182]

Yes foam is better and fiberglass is a carcinogen. Enough said. 73

[@MultiMacnasty]

Heads up...I was renovating my home. I wasn't intending to touch the insulation. When I opened the walls all the fiberglass insulation, in the outside walls, was resting on the bottom 3 feet of the wall cavities. Fiberglass sucks. I had to replace all the outside wall insulation. I put rock wool back in it. This stopped my renovation for 2 years. I don't know if the fiberglass was installed wrong. The paper around the fiberglass was still stapled in the wall cavities..........If the fiberglass had gotten wet, I found no rot in the walls......

[@TheDIYCabinGuy]

Dang not a fun discovery !

[@reidcrosby6241]

Had to be defective product. I opened up a 50 year old cabin. Faced insulation was PERFECT as day installed. Was a SUPER professionally done job, one stable every 6" like they used a marker.

[@archiehendricks6093]

Try wood lath over screen .

[@allisonbowen7445]

Where did you purchase the R38-C insulation?

[@TheDIYCabinGuy]

Through the lowes website, they had to special order it though and it took forever to get to my house.

[@wallheadkdir]

Or cut the mesh with an angle grinder I k own it sounds like pushing in a thumb tack with a sledge hammer but just try it

[@TheDIYCabinGuy]

Next time I will

[@gergwilsun5067]

Where are the air baffles? If you read the installation instructions it tells you paper beside faces condition space.

[@TheDIYCabinGuy]

I installed the intello plus air barrier instead of faced insulation

[@InquisitiveSearcher]

Where is your ridge vent in your roof for all the air that will travel up the air gap you left in the rafters? I would think that you would have put boards maybe a couple feet down from the peak that crossed from one rafter to the other that would leave an air gap at the peak of the roof with a ridge vent running the length of the length of the house on the roof. Maybe I missed something but it looks like you gave all that air no where to go.

[@TheDIYCabinGuy]

I do have a continuous ridge vent

[@mobaumeister2732]

XPS foam is best, followed by styrofoam. Any of the fibrous wooly insulation types stop performing if they get wet from moisture buildup

[@TheDIYCabinGuy]

👍

[@MrItalianfighter1]

Why didn't you insulate around the breaker box? It's safe to do so. You just can't have any inside the box.

[@TheDIYCabinGuy]

I think I did in the follow up video

[@waynehanshue712]

I know right. It is in backwards

[@archiehendricks6093]

I know you said unfaced, but insulation contains air space in fiber. To much air space causes energy loss.

[@stevenmcinnis8105]

Insulation, etc, should have started before sheeting the deck. It's way easier to install from the top.

[@TheDIYCabinGuy]

And then is just gets destroyed by rain which will get past the floor sheathing?

[@stevenmcinnis8105]

@TheDIYCabinGuy tarps, caulk, and zip tape joints. I also used stone based insulation . You're lucky you built high enough to get under.

[@TheDIYCabinGuy]

@@stevenmcinnis8105 yes I had thought about it to leave enough clearance to get under.

[@navydave1]

I'm starting to do my cabin ceiling also. I used Durovent (the egg carton style). If I'm using the vent, and fiberglass insulation and a vapor barrier and tongue and groove, what problem does the faced paper do at that point?

[@TheDIYCabinGuy]

Im installing intello plus, it’s an air barrier and vapor barrier. According to the manufacturer, you’re not supposed to put faced insulation below that.

[@navydave1]

@@TheDIYCabinGuy Cool. I'll have to look into that.

[@TheDIYCabinGuy]

@@navydave1 I guess because the intello plus is a smart vapor barrier, having Kraft paper below could mess with its properties and having it work properly.

[@paulneron375]

You can also create an air gap with 1×2s and a wafer board ie: (1/8 ply, Luan, paneling, even clear plastic, etc.). The high end builders gave up on those shitty baffles.

[@TheDIYCabinGuy]

Yeah I wasn’t a fan of them, and they don’t even cover the full bay between rafters…

[@paulharvey1947]

DON'T use the 'Spray Foam' from those cans. Buy the Contractor Spray Foam Gun w/ they correct can of foam for the intended needs. But make sure to buy some cleaning can to clean the gun for its next use. You will have better control over the foam from a small bead to a wide gap

[@TheDIYCabinGuy]

Thanks

[@greggapowell67]

Would like to see you do a "mini cabin" sauna build.

[@TheDIYCabinGuy]

Sure would be nice !

[@I_Am_L_3]

The correct way is to either use closed cell spray foam or to use faced insulation w batts for airflow to reach the peak. Im a builder. Never had mold in cathederal ceilings.

[@TheDIYCabinGuy]

What about if using T&G on the ceiling and not sheet rock? Would you still do that with faced insulation only and no air barrier?

[@I_Am_L_3]

@TheDIYCabinGuy oh i always have an air barrier on the roof sheathing. Even for pole barns we sheet them instead of using pearlings and always use the vapor barrier on top of the sheathing.

[@williamfisher9292]

I'm a builder. Lmfa. Different states have different climates. Different country's have climates. States that don't have frost don't have the same issues as ones that do

[@davidmaier343]

Great episode🎉

[@TheDIYCabinGuy]

Thanks a lot !

[@powskier]

It's just paper. It's not a vapor barrier. It's just to keep it in place. Moisture can pass right through it.

[@timpalmer-logstolumber1999]

The paper is a vapor barrier, that is why it has tar on the back of it. If you use unfaced you should use plasic on the walls to keep moisture out of the wall.

[@CarlAyers-x8h]

Twenty years later , they tear the whole house down.

[@denniskazich7559]

I'm pretty sure a dwelling of any kind that people live in can be sealed up too much. It needs to breathe naturally. Buildings that do not have correct air exchange need system installed that does it properly. It can be rodent and bug proofed without over killing ventilation.

[@TheDIYCabinGuy]

I’ll have a heat recovery ventilation system in place to bring in fresh air.

[@mikehouser8308]

Staple it to a 1x4 on the end prior to installing it

[@Hopeful-w7h]

Where can I get those baffles?

[@TheDIYCabinGuy]

I got these at lowes, they should be readily available in either lowes or Home Depot.

[@duanenichols2703]

Good job putting in backwards

[@TheDIYCabinGuy]

😱

[@fancyhitchpin8675]

You do need to vent those gable ends.

[@TheDIYCabinGuy]

I’m not sure how it’s be possible to do that with the overlooker in the way?

[@fancyhitchpin8675]

@TheDIYCabinGuy Is the soffit on the gable eaves vented? It should be. Someone commented suggesting drilling holes in the lookouts, then you want to have a vapor barrier below the holes like you did with the shoots, but ideally have it run out to the vented eaves because the air flow is more restricted. I would use ridgid foam board insolation, calk and or spray foam in place.

[@laruedouglas7972]

Great job 👍.

[@TheDIYCabinGuy]

Thanks 👍

[@Matthew-bp9yd]

Why didn't you go with Rockwool insulation?

[@TheDIYCabinGuy]

I’m not sure that rockwool makes R38C (compressed) which is what I needed for my ceiling. And if they do, it’s probably not readily available in my area. Also I think that rockwool is more expensive by 25-50% compared to fiberglass.

[@lyntwo]

It is hard to obtain and usually must be purchased in pallet quantities. But, yes, a far superior product

[@stevebrockway4738]

We used faced insulation for walls and ceiling. We only use the cabin for weekend or 3 day stays. Is the mold problem really something for us to consider before we tongue and groove the ceiling? Thanks for the heads up about it. Also, we never had a mice until we insulated.

[@TheDIYCabinGuy]

I would advise you to do some research about it, there are several posts on green advisor about this and then make an educated decision. Of course, from a cautious standpoint, It might be better to be safe than sorry. Another consensus is to install sheet rock (taped and floated) before installing the T&G, of course, one shouldn’t install a bunch of leaky can lights.

[@stevebrockway4738]

@@TheDIYCabinGuy Thanks for the advice. Merci!

[@richstak]

Looking good!

[@TheDIYCabinGuy]

Thanks!

[@Lorne55]

I learned alot... thank-you... ou merci si vous etes Acadien...

[@TheDIYCabinGuy]

Merci! Et je suis français

[@musicgroopie1]

The insulation is put in backwards

[@TheDIYCabinGuy]

😱

[@mountain_man89]

Spray foam it and forget the pink stuff. You won't need any of this extra steps for venting

[@TheDIYCabinGuy]

Have you ever diy spray foam insulation? I didn’t feel like paying someone for doing it.

[@owenhill-vf7ko]

Should have used paper faced insulation stapled inside the joists maintaining a dead air space between it and your sheetrock!! Problems will arise:)

[@TheDIYCabinGuy]

😱😱😱

[@keithrhynes1945]

Well I don’t think times have changed that much, a house has to breathe. Just take care of

[@branch_ranch]

Homes don't "have to breathe". An air tight house is preferred. Why would you want a drafty house?

[@Grampagreybeard]

Cover the floor insulation with 1/4 or 3/8-inch plywood and paint it before you install it. 100 years from now, it will still be there.

[@TheDIYCabinGuy]

I might do that, that would be nice

[@rayreyes2490]

great vid!

[@TheDIYCabinGuy]

Thanks !

[@YUHJKT]

My idea for a shed is frame out the floor without the plywood using 2x6 boards. Measure down from the top 4" on the 2x6 floor joist and nail in a strip of plywood for a ledge to nail to. Place 1/2" plywood pieces measuring the width of inside to inside Joist and rest these on the ledge. Nail in place. Lay in your batts of fiberglass insulation from the top like a civilized man. Then nail down your shed floor plywood. All the work from the top, see. Civilized.

[@TheDIYCabinGuy]

Yeah all good until it rains and the insulation gets ruined…. Unless you can do the insulation installation, walls and roof within the same day or before the next rain

[@YUHJKT]

@TheDIYCabinGuy Tru dat.

[@YUHJKT]

@TheDIYCabinGuy I would never leave the floor uncovered until the walls and roof are complete.

[@TheDIYCabinGuy]

@ from my own experience, even with great quality tarp, water will get in. The tarp will get blowed away or eventually damaged to let water though. You’ll constantly fight and stress about putting it back on and hoping that things will stay dry. So unless the roof is coming up fast, I don’t think that installing insulation then is worth the risk. Obviously depends on your climate region, we have lots of rain here and snow in the winter too.

[@marksr49341]

You attached the dryer vent pipe to the vent BACKWARDS

[@TheDIYCabinGuy]

😐

[@zirahnliz]

You should of done it like thebossoftheswamp guy, it would of been way simpler and actually worked

[@johnleca]

Wow your ceiling video looks like a floor video.

[@abigailsanderson5943]

Use an angle grinder and cutoff wheel wayyyy faster cutting hardware cloth

[@TheDIYCabinGuy]

Great point!

[@murraysheppard1153]

Sometimes you have no choice.. figure it out

[@diegoruiz7600]

Wood stove?

[@TheDIYCabinGuy]

Heat pump mini split. Wood stove would have been nice but since this cabin will be rented as an Airbnb, I don’t trust tenants making fires.

[@diegoruiz7600]

@@TheDIYCabinGuy smart man😅 good luck! The cabin looks fantastic and very well built

[@TheDIYCabinGuy]

@@diegoruiz7600 thanks 😀

[@trevorjumbo5130]

Bro: why is there insects trying to make a home on the insulation. Bro installing the insulation backwards 😂😂😂😂

[@BrianLawrence-vk3pu]

Should I never ever have to insulate or vapor barrier a crawl space, it will be far too soon. I wish I would have made less money and done physically easier work in my early years.

[@eric4847]

All you had to do was install a baffle in between roof joist.

[@wdilks]

Good info. cathedral = "ca-THEE-dral"

[@TheDIYCabinGuy]

🤣🤣🤣