Do shipped chicks need heat lamps NOT brooder plates?

[@jeremyadair5780]

The quality of your editing, quoting of your sources, and even segmenting of the video are 100%. 11.k subs does not do your hard work justice. Thank you! that was better than any documentary on netflix. another option may just be location of the food closer to the brooder plate. I bet they don't like wandering away from the heat, so they never located the food. Put the food closer to the plate?? Anyways, I loved your video so much. You research like I do. Much love and keep doing what you are doing.

[@thefeatherbrain]

Thank you so much for your kind words - that really means a lot to me! So true on the feeder - I actually talk about that topic some in the video I made after this one. I also recommend scattering feed under the brooder plate to start out with. There was a study that showed that newly hatched chicks will more readily eat food sprinkled on a paper towel then they will from a feeder. Sure, you'll need to clean under the brooder plate more or replace the floor material more, but could make a huge difference for these borderline cases. Thanks for commenting. :) Bri

[@jeremyadair5780]

@@thefeatherbrain ​ I've been watching the videos for 2 hours now and checking out your website. I've never really seen a blog\website like yours. Its better than industrial training I've paid thousands for (format, questions, reminders, examples, etc) The tapping and the birds attraction to that sound in the 101 video where you showed how to simulate a hen... I saw that and was like ...... I was silly to be a beginner and recommend moving the food bowl lol. I also just saw the prolapse video.... I lived next to the tyson plant, hungry man dinner plant, and georges chicken plant in NWA for several years and there were people that wouldn't eat eggs because they had worked the chicken houses and remarked how "disgusting" the birds were. The truck's that carried them had a smell that could loft across a walmart parking lot from the highway, and with my commute I would commonly pass them to get upwind.... Many of the birds were prolapsed... and dirty... and its as simple as cleaning their bedding, and giving them lighting they need instead of lighting for feed... Anyways, thank you for the videos. I had a few "innocently bright ideas" that were terrible ideas.... and now I really understand that the birds weren't gross.... the people were. You also stopped me from killing quail chicks with several things I would have done... because I'll wing it sometimes and am a driver that learns by doing after a little research... I'm so glad I found this rabbit hole.

[@thefeatherbrain]

@@jeremyadair5780 You totally were not silly recommending moving the food bowl - the majority of people don’t even think about that, but having it closer can make an enormous difference in how much a chick eats and whether they have a good start in life or not. Don’t sell yourself short! It always breaks my heart to hear stories about factory farm chickens - no chicken deserves to live in filth and no chicken should ever smell. I can't stand the thought of animals living like that. Even in the backyard, poop management is something I’ve reflected a lot on (and am constantly trying to improve but haven’t perfected). We all take for granted that chickens should live in their own poop (on bedding) to some extent, but they don’t live in feces at all in nature - living in poop is a product of domestication. (Factory farms are of course the extreme version of that.) I suppose it's a bit of a necessary evil as we have to keep them protected in coops and runs and we have limited space…and now I’m going off on a tangent. Thanks again for your kind words - most people find my style too thorough, so it’s always nice to meet a fellow research-oriented keeper. 😊Also makes me feel good to know that I’ve helped your birds. Thanks again. 💕💕

[@Charlie-fe7qh]

You need to remember a chickens normal body temp is 105 to 107°... I just received 18 chicks by mail and used a heat plate brooder but made sure it warmed the floor to 100-105° and now 12 days later I have 18 rapidly growing chicks. They arrived hungry and thirsty. Gave them electrolytes and prebiotic water first 7 days and all the food they wanted.

[@HappilyRVafter]

My first flock is due to be shipped next month from a hatchery 2,500 miles from me. I witnessed several chicks that had been shipped die shortly after arriving at a friend's ranch. I have been terrified that the same thing was going to happen to my baby chicks even though I am reading extensively and watching videos about raising chicks. After watching your video, I feel much better prepared to give them the warmth they need without a heat lamp--using a brooder plate and space heater. I also will only buy locally after this so, THANK YOU! Providing your subscribers with facts is a noble thing to do; you are saving (baby chick) lives!

[@thefeatherbrain]

So sorry to hear about your friend's experience! Buying locally is definitely a better choice as far as chick welfare is concerned. Best of luck with your new babies. :)

[@salinamartin8711]

Last year I ordered 4 chicks (got 5) from cackle hatchery. I followed their instructions. I had my large tote set up in my house at 75° room temp. I used a heat lamp and kept it at 100° for the first 10 days. I was impressed with how they shipped my chicks. They got to me in Georgia from Missouri in 2 days. They had heat pads that were still quite warm in them. It was a small box and it had bedding which I'm sure held the heat well. They had water and food in the box also. There was enough left over for another day had they gotten delayed. All 5 of my chicks were alert and peeping. I dipped their little beaks in water scattered some crumbles on the floor and they ate and drank no problem. I switched them to a heat plate after the 10 days. They all grew up and I have to say they were all beautiful quality birds. I hand raised all of them. I followed your advice how to handle them and bond and it works great! They all eat from my hand, I have no problem handling them and out of the 5 I have 3 that jump into my lap. I have 1 that would stay there for hours if id let her. She falls asleep immediately. I ordered a buff Orpington roo and he is very tame and sweet. He will stay next to me and I can handle him. He is just stunning and loving. So thank you for all your videos! I'm waiting for 3 Easter eggers the end of the month from cackle.

[@NatalieChicken]

Wow

[@WashoeValleyCollies]

Question, were the chicks in the example we are discussing, were they vaccinated? We did a test with our two shipped flocks. The first Flock 1 of 15 were vaccinated at the hatchery for Merecks. Within 72 hours of receiving our Flock 1, 5 died from neurological symptoms. We even had day 1 chick was blind (never opened her eyes at all), limp legs, and disabled on one side. Died within hours. And so it went for the rest of the chicks that died that weekend. We tried everything to help them live including nursing them in our home. So they were not abandoned and found dead, they were in our home and under my observation. It was a sad lesson to learn. Our Flock 2 chicks arrived 2 weeks later, they were NOT vaccinated. They all arrived robust and healthy and ready to go. In fact they were quite lively. And to this day, 11 months of age, the Flock 2 birds have not had problems and all survived and are thriving. While the Flock 1 vaccinated birds, tend to get sick more often and act strange like something neurological impacted their brains? This is my observation as a hobby farmer, and from my empirical knowledge now of raising chicks. There was a definite difference in the robustness of the flocks, and the vaccinated chicks were more vulnerable and weird acting compared to the non-vaxxed chicks. And actually I did research this question with a state university's AG department. They actually said, if you have a 'closed flock' (i.e. no bird shows, or constant contact with outside birds, etc.) you are probably safe without the vaccines. So what can I say? This is our story and experience. Washoe Valley Collies ~ Nevada

[@lidip8700]

I have chosen to not vaccinate any of my day old chicks i ordered. Becky @Featherbrain, what's your opinion on the chicks being vaccinated? On a side note, did (or does) anyone search FARMISH to find hatcheries near your home? I did, but they didn't have any Brahmas. I hope to have the buff & the dark type to breed & sell.

[@kylemartin832]

🙏 and I'll save $4.50. We are ordering chicks tonight and we're still going back and forth about it. We're both flocks ordered from the same hatchery?

[@WashoeValleyCollies]

@@kylemartin832 It was McMurray, and Yes, both flocks came from them. This was end- of-April and mid-May ship dates, so cold was not a factor. Our second flock was just 3 weeks younger than the first. So based upon what I've experienced last year, I'd say the vaccine does strange things to the baby chick and carries on to adulthood. Just say NO to any vaccines (if you have a 'closed' flock)......but they were good about putting a little heated pad at the bottom of the second shipping box. Those vaccines, who knows who gives them to a one ounce bird??? the vaccine is frozen and made for large operations, I think thousand (not certain) servings of vaccine (Mereck) has to be warmed up and diluted. But who knows what a dose is appropriate for a tiny bird? and probably there are not any scientists preparing the vaccines nor injecting the chicks. It's ranch hands, and who knows who they are? On some of the review on Mc's website, there were many deaths last year.....so something went wrong??? I breed dogs too. And I have to warn my customers about vaccinosis. Look up that word and you'll see why I am cautious. Glad I could help clarify. But do stay on top of 'pasty butt' (stuck poo). They may have it happen the first week, and you need to wipe it off. Read up on that too.

[@thefeatherbrain]

@WashoeValleyCollies @lidip8700 @kylemartin832 Washoe Valley Collies - thank you for sharing your story. I disagree with you on the Mareks vaccine, but I appreciate hearing your experience. I, personally, have vaccinated every chick I've ever had and never lost one. To this day, I've never seen a chick or chicken exhibit neurological symptoms of any illness (or vaccine), and I've never lost a chicken to Mareks. I don't discount that perhaps the vaccine affected your first flock of chicks (the vaccine could have been bad or the added stress of the vaccine on the chicks on top of the heavy shipping stresses could have been too much for them) - but it's not the only possibility. The neurological symptoms you described are also very common with shipped chicks who are starving and/or dehydrated - extremely common. And just because you had your second flock shipped in the same season does not mean they experienced the same shipping conditions. In hatcheries, chicks in an incubator are hatched during a 24-48 hour window, but regardless of their hatching age, their birth is marked as "0" when they are removed from the incubator. This means that some day old chicks are indeed just a day old, but others are already 2 to 3 days old, and you really have no idea what age YOUR chicks actually are. Additionally, even if your chicks were shipped in the same season, chicks can go through drastically different shipping experiences. Some are left on loading docks out in the wind, rain, heat, or cold for long periods of time, whereas others aren't. Some are left in airplane cargo holds during hot weather, cold weather, humid weather, or dry weather for long periods of time, whereas others aren't. Even when you look at factory farms who, surprisingly, are much more humane about shipping chicks than are backyard shipping hatcheries - if you look at the research, unlike backyard chicken hatcheries, factory farms ship chicks in much more humane conditions, using climate-controlled trucks. But the research shows that even those trucks experience different microclimates. So if your chick box is in the middle of the truck, it will experience considerably less ventilation and considerably warmer temperatures than a box near the door of the truck. This means that if your chick box is in the middle of the truck, your chicks will fare better during the cold weather (because of lower ventilation and higher temperatures), but in hot weather, they'll fare worse. There are just so many different factors that can apply during shipping. As for the Mareks Vaccine, please check out - mikethechickenvet.wordpress.com/2021/03/02/mareks-vaccine-info/ Washoe Valley Collies has said they talked to an ag expert who says they don't need it, but other experts say they do. For anybody on the fence about the vaccine, PLEASE talk to your local vets - if you don't have one in your town, contact one in the nearest city. The vets in my nearest city, Boise, have all told me that Mareks is prevalent in our area and they see chickens dying from Mareks ALL the time, more than any other ailment. The vaccine has been a godsend for my flock. If you're on the fence - check with your vets to know if Mareks is a threat or not and go from there, that's my best advice. Again, thanks for sharing your experience. Best, Bri

[@jjlepepe5875]

Research the Mareks jab. It's a hot vaccin3 meaning it can actually spread the disease to humans. Also, chickens can still get the disease. Vaxx3d chickens can spread the disease to unvaxx3d chickens as the vaccin3 sheds. (Not unlike another recent vaccin3 for humans). I refuse to vax for Mareks. Also I will no longer vax for coccidiosis. It's easily treatable & according to Meyer Hatchery, it creates tremendous stress on the shipped birds so they don't do it.. Consider all the stress they experience during shipping and add a vax that taxes their immune system on top of all of that. Not good.

[@krissiemarie4158]

If I order chicks thru the mail I always give them warm sugar water to start. And I always use a brooder plate. I've never had a problem doing it this way...

[@nogames8982]

I use a mama heating pad cave now. It works great. I start them off for one week in the house and then I move them out to the coop with the heating pad cavee. I’m getting some chicks the second week of September and they will be out in the coop by their second week that I have them. It will be cold out there, but they will be just fine with the heating pad cave. I highly recommend it.

[@amel2784]

Cackle Hatchery also recommends providing warm-ish water for them to drink the first few days

[@marieweaver6894]

My shipped chicks did great with a brooder plate. I absolutely did not trust a heat lamp.

[@spiritual-investigator7575]

Fantastic channel!! Very informative! I don't have chicken yet. I'm in research mode. You deserve more subscribers. Thank you for taking the time to make these videos. 🙂

[@thefeatherbrain]

Thanks for your kind words, and glad to hear you are in research mode. Too many people buy chicks without researching enough. Sounds like your chicks will be getting everything they need when you're finally ready! :)

[@claudinedecarlisle8647]

Mine have always done excellent with brooder plates. I also always started them drinking and eating as soon as I get them into the brooder. Thank you for following up on what Jackie was told.

[@amygeorge9191]

I ordered my chicks from Valley Hatchery and they also recommend a heat lamp for the first week for shipped chicks.

[@jjlepepe5875]

One of the greatest stresses to shipped chicks aside from the obvious reasons is the coccidiosis jabs. I bought chicks from a new hatchery and they refuse to vax for coccidiosis because it is too stressful on the shipped chicks & because it is unnecessary (coccidiosis is easily treatable). I thought i had researched this well and made a good decision but I will not be getting them again now that I know this. I recently got chicks from Murray McMurray & half died. 1 arrived dead, the 3 others died within 2 days. 2 others almost died but we brought them back with honey & water. It was absolutely heart breaking. They were vaxxed for coccidiosis, came through a snow storm, and one of the chicks NEVER should have been shipped. It was ridiculously tiny. Last year, I got chicks from them and they sent a polish hen (free chick - was supposed to be a rooster) with 8 Wyandottes. The Wyandottes are top of pecking order & polish are the bottom. They almost killed the polish & had to permanently remove her. My Wyandottes seem happy but they tear each other apart constantly & I suspect a genetic issue. I am using a new hatchery for my next shipment because of all of these problems. As far as brooder plates, Murray McMurray sells an orange & grey brooder & it does NOT get hot enough. I had to replace it. They even had a video comparing brooder plates and all of the chicks went to the square yellow plate. I don’t understand why they still sell it.

[@dandeleona4760]

The reason heating the floor makes a difference is heat rises, even as the brooder plate radiates downward. Tho top pressure is more emotional for them (mimics the eggshell they just hatched, perhaps comparable to human infant swaddling), and topside plate heating is reminiscent of hen warmth. But it's important to remember most of a chick's body real estate is huddled on the ground, not its back, so to recreate the natural experience, it takes more than just a top plate. If brooding space is insulated similar to nesting materials, this heat is radiated back up under the chick, along with ventilation and humidity thru e.g., straw, and more like a nest with a brooding hen. But a chick in a box or on plywood sawdust doesn't have that reciprocal heat, and tend to chill against the flooring. Just like we do when we warm up in front of a fireplace, hands and backside first, or - in chick parlet - regions most exposed to cold from underneath. They can stand under a plate but they can't stay there forever, they have to huddle on the ground at some point. It's good to have a warm nest ready underneath. Taking care of insulation underneath is a good way to dial back on grid energy. Brooder plates will adjust their temp cycle to compensate (heat lamps of course will not). If flammable nesting material makes people nervous, try a silicone nesting mat to trap warm air in the soft prongs underneath. Rinse and repeat because they're easy to clean. Mother hens carefully pick out baby poop and drop it outside the nest to keep chicks clean until feathered, so a silicone nesting mat will make that poultry housekeeping easier for us. Alternatively, dump chicken feathers into a mesh bag, and curl it like a boa around the brooder so chicks can still snuggle into down, but the feathers stay clean by washing the mesh. The same might work to quiet chicks on the road home from the post office. Even loose mesh like those grocery onions or potatoes come in, can be cleaned by hosing the whole thing - feathers and all - and drying in the sun until fluffy again for reuse. Or, just dump them and refill new.

[@amel2784]

Thank you! My chicks just hatched today, the same day you loaded this video, and were shipped a few hours ago. I ordered four chicks from Cackle Hatchery and have paid attention to their instructions. Mostly I'm concerned because my chicks will take 2 to 3 days before they get here and there are only four chicks in the box. Cackle Hatchery assured me that they can ship fewer chicks than most hatcheries because they ship in a smaller box and with more pads inside the box to keep them warm. So I decided to trust them and give it a try. My thinking was any hatchery that advises that you need to provide extra warmth the first few days your chicks arrive, must have done their research about chicks and temperature.. in fact they require that you sign that you have watched all of their instructions for the arrival of the chicks and their care before they will agree to ship to you. I thought 100° would be extremely hot (but hoped that by providing them that cooler area it would be okay). Now you have explained right on time for my Cream Legbars, as to Cackle Hatchery's advice for higher temperatures and it makes perfect sense. I'm so grateful to you for helping me to understand because these are my first chicks and I have been quite confused.

[@thefeatherbrain]

Thanks for sharing this. I'm so glad the video helped - there's a lot of conflicting information so every beginner feels confused I think. I know I was when I started. Best of luck with your new chicks. :) Bri

[@regencylass1183]

I use a brooder heat plate, but...I also have a seedling heat mat on the floor, under the brooder, with only 1/2 of the mat directly under the brooder heat plate, so chicks can move off of it if ever they get too warm, but yet still get some warmth from the plate. I also use the old style first aid heating pad set on the lowest setting the same way as the seedling heat mat. Sadly all the new heating pads now come with auto shutoff after so many minutes. But you can occasionally still find the old style ones at estate sales and auctions.

[@SocietalRift]

Ordered chicks from cackle hatchery - used a brooder plate, magic water, organic chick starter crumbles. We lost 1 chick, the rest are happily pooping and scratching and foraging their hemp bedding for loose and buried crumbles.

[@tinab7791]

I've seen this exact thing come up in Facebook chicken groups. Thank you for taking the time to look into it, what you reported totally makes sense. I really appreciate your approach to chickens. Definitely my kind of chicken people 😉

[@lidip8700]

When I get my day old chicks (16-18 ct) home, I already have the heat lamps warming the brooders before I left to pick them up. Then I place the box of chicks in those brooders, taking 1 chick out at a time. I calm it, and feed it a tiny bit of gro-gel with a dropper, that I already mixed up. This is hydration & a boost of supplements. I place the calmed chick into the brooder to cuddle its back against a 1x1 board that is suspended against the sides of the brooder bin, with a fuzzy sock on it, which the brooder is warmed at 95-100 degrees as well. Chicks usually fall asleep. (More gro-gel & water & crumbles are available in the brooders too.) I am planning to use Heat Panels for the first time, after the 7-10 days of the Heat Lamps, as Cackle required. I keep these brooders in my laundry room so I can be near them & have a lot of contact with them throughout my day. By 4-5 weeks my Brahma chicks are moved to the outdoor heated brooder building & taken out of the brooder bins slowly, as they sit on my lap until they're ready to explore. This provides more space to be free to safely roam, inside their haven. Note: I am experimenting with reusable potty pads & unbleached paper in my brooder bins for the first time after watching Featherbrain's video on bedding.

[@thefeatherbrain]

Sounds like an amazing set-up!

[@garyhempel6316]

my hatched chicks eat as soon as they are introduced to feed ,shortly after drinking. that's why you have to have marbles or pebbles in the water they are eating and drinking before they can stand well.

[@scottc8152]

I use a heat lamp and put a space blanket over the bin. I also have a thermometer in the bin to monitor the temperature. The space blanket really makes a big difference in keeping a nice warm whole bin. I fold it in 1/2 so there are 2 layers for the first week or so, then take it to one layer after that.

[@stephanied9629]

What’s a space blanket?

[@beebop9808]

Nice vid! I called BS at Cackles warning about heat plates myself. I got some Blue Copper Marans delivered early Feb from a different hatchery this year. A week later received Lav. Ameraucana's from Cackle. Out of the box my Marans were the eating machines they always are. Under a heat plate no issues at all. The Ameraucana's show up all fluffy and happy. Eating immediately and also under a heat plate. The a day later I lost one of them suddenly. Then again a day later! What the heck!! Ran straight out and got a heat lamp and set it up. All those chicks perked up and stayed under the heat for a long time. It was days before they moved out away from the heat. Something else, those little babies ate half the feed even with 9 birds vs the 7 Marans. They were slow to grow and feather out. Finally only catching another gear and started growing and eating just a week ago, maybe a little longer. Happy to say they all moved out to their run with the big birds in the release cage yesterday! Closer to seven weeks than six. The Marans were out at six weeks and out fending for themselves a week later. Best release yet. Have to give it up to my boy on that one. He took to watching over the babies right off the bat and kept his girls from picking on the babies. Such an awesome rooster!

[@lisagayhart2482]

I ordered from ideal hatchery . I used a heat lamp because that’s what I had . They are dangerous. I had them in the house for a month. I cranked up the heat in the house the first week to 80 . Mine got extra electrolytes and a bunch of attention the first day . I recommend the hatchery should probably be in a state close to you so they get there faster. And this girl knows her stuff

[@jjlepepe5875]

Also if you live up North, DON'T order in April. We were ok doing that last year but this year we had a terrible storm. We lost half of our chicks. One was also shipped too small & should never have been shipped

[@darlene5621]

What kind of rooster is behind you in this video he is GORGEOUS!!

[@thefeatherbrain]

Thanks!!! I'll pass your compliment onto him. That's Quiggles LaRoo. He's a handful, but I love him. He was a rescue - abandoned in the wilderness on the side of the highway - so I'm not completely sure of his background. He was on the edge of starvation when I found him - feathers and bones. He's got to be either an Easter Egger or some type of Americauna. Thanks again for noticing his beauty - despite the fact he's now my sole rooster, the hens still refuse to mate with him.

[@darlene5621]

@@thefeatherbrain 🤔🤔that's odd I thought hens had no choice. 😉 Evidently they do. Lol----- love your channel.

[@thefeatherbrain]

@@darlene5621 Thanks, Darlene! I've found hens have just as much choice (if not more so) as the roosters - although young roosters can be overly eager and a bit "rapey." I talk a little about this here - kzbin.info/www/bejne/kGWUgoaQaNh6mpI . In the wild, young roosters would be put in their place by older roosters, so I think this "rapiness" is an artifact of domestication. Thanks again for your kind words. Bri

[@kylemartin832]

Use a chain rather than those spring clips to hold the light up. Most of the fires in brooders are from using those sping clips on the edge of a plastic bin. Just mount it right and it's not as dangerous as people make them out to be. Still more dangerous than a plate but might work better in some applications 👍🙏✌️

[@Lizzypoohxo]

The clips work great. We've used them for about 10 years now and have never had a problem.

[@bewwio]

I'm on my second year of chicks. My first year a friend loaned me his whole brooding setup so for this time I had to buy my own set up. I just got chicks from a local farm store but I needed a heat lamp and purchased one that was sold there specifically marketed for chicks. I set it up with the new chicks and within mins I could feel the excessive heat. My infrared heater was measuring 108 degrees at the pine shavings!!!!! No matter how far away I pulled the lamp it was pumping out wayyyyy to much heat. I'm glad I monitored it closely and caught it before I had a bunch of Kentucky Fried Chicks! I switched the bulb out for Edison bulb i had laying around that provided just enough heat and bought a plate the next day.

[@thefeatherbrain]

So glad you kept an eye on that - could have had a disaster without your quick thinking! :)

[@nogames8982]

I just get the chicks from the local feed store. They’ve already had food and water by the time I get them. i’ve had friends that order them in the mail and basically they end up losing a few. I’ve only lost one when I got it from the feed store.

[@lidip8700]

I do wish there was a hatchery near me. BUT, now on, I plan to hatch our own chicks from our farm.

[@thefeatherbrain]

I have that same hope. Most of my hens are geriatric now (so I don't want to use their eggs) and I have only one old lady who ever goes broody, so my plan is - next time I buy chicks, I'll buy broody breeds (a variety) from my local hatchery, raise the roosters of that bunch in a bachelor flock, and then breed my own babes. The more natural we can be with our chicken-rearing and raising, the better. Sounds like you agree with me on this. :)

[@stephanied9629]

A bachelor flock is possible with roosters? They don’t fight a lot?

[@crazioma6648]

I purchased my chicks online this year because no one locally had Barnevelders. But my babies hate now and always have hated 95°f. I do use an infared lamp but it is way above the bedding. The temp at the chicks backs run between 80° and 90°. They are even lower at night when they snuggle to sleep. Thank God I've never lost one.

[@thefeatherbrain]

So glad it all worked out for you! :) Sounds like you've figured out the perfect setup for your chicks. Thanks for pointing out that all chicks are different and the amount of heat they ultimately need will vary.

[@torchedcustomwoodflagsllc4718]

I had asked you the same exact question months ago as I was ordering chicks. I had ordered from Cackle Hatcherie and watched that video. I had all ready done a LOT of research, and that was the first time I had heard NOT to use a brooder plate. Long story short, they all thrived and did just fine. (almost 6 months old) Thanks for finally getting to this subject for everyone.

[@thefeatherbrain]

Sorry it took me so long to get to it - it was a lot of work getting down to the bottom of it all. So glad your chicks all thrived! :)

[@torchedcustomwoodflagsllc4718]

Well you had a LOT going on too. We wish you luck at your new place. Looking good so far.

[@thefeatherbrain]

@@torchedcustomwoodflagsllc4718 By the way, checked out your website - your work is GORGEOUS!!

[@torchedcustomwoodflagsllc4718]

@@thefeatherbrain thank you so much! 🇺🇸

[@tinab7791]

I'm sharing this out on every chick post I see, it's important info.

[@thefeatherbrain]

@tinab7781 Thank you! I so appreciate you spreading the word! :)

[@andystampfli9127]

My garage isn't warm enough unless it's summer to use my plate. The plate only got to 90% floor temp in a unheated garage in Wisconsin in March. Not exactly news but the heat lamp didn't have any issues warming the brooder. Now in summer the plate works just fine for me. But my first chicks are usually with snow on the ground so the lamp gets used

[@andystampfli9127]

Also try to find a hatchery within 200 miles of your house. In the Midwest this is very easy.

[@kdavis450]

I was thinking that at least a couple of hatcheries had a note on their webpage that they wouldn't ship during extreme weather and temps? Seems like a good policy. I have never ordered chicks that were shipped. When i first had chickens, i used heat lamps. I didn't ever use heat lamps in the coop though. My chicks i got last year had brooder plates. Although not shipped, they did just fine. Thanks Bri, for all your informative videos! I always look forward to and enjoy them very much!

[@thefeatherbrain]

I do think some won't ship if there's a severe cold snap but most hatcheries are still shipping during both winter and summer, during which the norm is bad conditions - one's always too cold and one's always too hot. The problem too is that chicks can be left out on loading docks or on runways. Airlines (who are required by law to ship chicks in the cargo hold as mail even if they know the current conditions aren't safe) have complained that chicks frequently die in the cargo hold during long waits on the runway, etc. And then the humidity conditions in airplane cargo holds are dangerously low at flying altitude - no live animal should be kept in humidity that low without water (even then, it's not ideal), so longer flights can result in high death rates (for weeks following the flight, not just during or shortly after). Additionally, even microclimates matter. Studies have shown, for example, that wherever the box ends up in the truck makes a huge difference. So, boxes in the middle of the truck are hotter with less ventilation. Those near the door are cooler with more ventilation - if it's winter, chicks will fare better in the middle of the truck; summer, near the door but these aren't part of post office policies. And then what's truly scary is that chicks don't have to be cold or hot for very long to have an increased risk of death - if their in-the-box temperature goes down to 70 degrees for just a few hours, that increases the death rate. If the in-the-box-temperature goes up to 100-105 degrees for a few hours, that greatly increases the death rate. Nobody can control the conditions these chicks are subjected to - they will always be unpredictable - so shipping is always a risk. Glad to hear that you don't ship yourself. My hope is with this video and the next one, I can "plant a seed" in people's minds, get them to start slowly realizing shipping might not be humane. Thanks for your kind words. :) Bri

[@kdavis450]

​@@thefeatherbrainSpeaking of humane, it breaks my heart that so many chicks in the world are newly hatched, roughly handled (some injected) and thrown into different areas getting stepped on, then thrown into boxes that the lid gets put on so they are then sitting in the dark. The box gets moved around, possibly not handled gently, hearing noises they have never heard and being scared SCARED, with no mama to comfort them. This though goes back to one of your videos about raising chicks like a mama hen. When perusing various hatchery websites recently, I did notice that more then do, do not allow pick up at the hatchery. I like the idea of and think it's a good idea allowing pick up. If it's a biosecurity issue, surly they could come up with a solution. Another separate building that customers go into and employees change shoes before and after they enter, disinfect hands and arms (like a doc going into surgery), change outer shirt (like those long sleeved , button up scrub type jackets) before and after, etc.. in the long run, they may save a little money by not having to refund lost chicks... I agree, it doesn't sound like an even slightly possible good idea to ship chicks in even the best weather! Maybe we can spread the word and make it more the norm to pick up chicks from hatcheries then shipping!!

[@thefeatherbrain]

@@kdavis450 I'm disappointed to hear that many hatcheries aren't allowing pickup. I totally agree they should find a way to make local pickup work. As for how sad life begins for chicks, I'm actually covering that again in my next video on shipped chicks, some of the same footage even.

[@kdavis450]

@@thefeatherbrain I am looking forward to the new video (I ALWAYS do)! I have told new and less experienced chicken owners to check out your KZbin channel, especially raising chicks like a mama hen so I will add the new video to my recommendations! Thank you again for all your hard work making videos, researching and educating people!!

[@wandarettinger5674]

I hatch my own egg layers but when I get meat broilers I also dip their beaks into vitamin water and use a heat lamp.

[@amel2784]

I just received my four chicks from Cackle Hatchery today. I've never had chicks before but I had three heaters ready to use. I had a Sweeter Heater set up and ready for the chicks in the brooder plus I had a heat lamp and a brooder plate. I wanted to use a Sweeter Heater because it can put out the same amount of heat but it has to be very close to the chicks. But, It didn't warm the outside circle of the brooder warm enough for newly arrived chicks. Also, once I put the chicks under it I couldn't see them. So I switched it out for the heat lamp and it's much easier to both see and warm the entire brooding setup. I have the room temperature at 85° and under the heat lamp is about 101°. The chicks absolutely loved the 101° temperature. Cackle Hatchery states in the video you watch before you purchase one of their chicks, that the first two to three days the temperature should be 5 to 10° higher than the 95° typically recommended. So anywhere between 100° to 105° would be okay according to their experience and what they want their customers to use. At first they all laid under it -- it was a cold day when they arrived and they were a little cold on the third day but healthy and strong. Now, only one of them, the smallest one, stays laying underneath the center where it's warmest but-as the day progressed the others got a little bit further from the heat. Following Cackle Hatchery's recommendations, tomorrow or the next day, depending on how the chicks are acting under the heat lamp, I will start turning the heat down to 95°. I bought the brooder plate with great anticipation that it would make everything very much easier, however when I plugged the booder plate in and put my hand and a thermometer under it, I could not get the temperature underneath it anywhere near 95°. So I'm not using the brooder plate for now. As the chicks get older and don't need as much heat, I may use it at a taller setting so that they can get under it if they want to. For now I'm glad that I had the heat lamp even though I really wanted to use something besides a heat lamp, if possible. Currently the chicks are spread out all over the brooder floor, stretched out completely sound asleep. I take that as a good sign that everything is well.

[@thefeatherbrain]

As I said in the video, Cackle Hatchery's higher temperature recommendations are fine if your brooder is big enough that your chicks can get away from the heat if they need to. But 100-105 degrees is too hot in a small brooder long-term. I think you're misunderstanding how the brooder plate works. It doesn't emit heat the way a heat lamp does - it's a radiant panel, so the chicks press against it to get warm - it transmits heat directly to the chicks, not to the space. This is why, unlike the heat lamp, it's a low fire risk. The brooder plate should feel warm to the touch and then should get warmer as you leave your hand there, but never burn. You shouldn't ever have a high temperature at the floor level with a brooder plate (if you do, something is probably wrong with the plate and it will likely burn your chicks if they press against it). It sounds like your chicks are all thriving and very happy with the way you've set things up - you're clearly putting a lot of thought and care into how you're raising them.

[@amel2784]

@@thefeatherbrain Cackle's recommendation for 100° to 105° is for a few days. On the small flat thermometer I purchased from them (to gauge the temperature on the brooder floor) it instructs to keep it at that temp for 1 to 2 days. That's what I did. I could see they enjoyed it, bc on the second day when the temperature dropped a little bit as I was experimenting, they moved over into the warmest spot and huddled. The next morning though, they were ready for the temperature to be lowered so I did and they happily spread out across the brooder again. Thank you for your response. I do understand about radiant heat. I was expecting the brooder plate to maintain something close to 95°,, which is the common recommendation. I know the plate can't be that hot to the touch and I understand that the brooder plate is supposed to simulate the mama hen, but there is some confusion in my mind as to why, since the normal recommendation is 95°, that the brooder plate doesn't reach that temp.........but also, possibly the one I bought is defective. I started wondering if the reason why some of the folks who had chicks dying underneath a brooder plate, might be because it's actually too little heat because the ambient temperature in the room was cold, and they thought It was because the plate was too hot. I wonder if they used your recommendation, which is to keep a very warm room to supplement the ambient temperature in the brooder,, perhaps the chicks might not have died.

[@thefeatherbrain]

@@amel2784 You did it the best way - by watching their behavior and adjusting accordingly. The instincts of a true chicken mama. :) The recommendation of 95 degrees the first week, 90 the second, etc., is really only helpful for heat lamps. I know that's confusing because people will so often spout those numbers off and then say you can use a heat plate as if it's related to those numbers. But truly, those measurements are meant for when you're using a heat lamp and should be ignored for the brooder plate. I doubt your brooder plate was defective. When it's working correctly, most people are worried it's not warm enough. I do agree that the ambient temperature in the room should be higher than the recommended 50-60 degrees (ESPECIALLY for shipped chicks) starting out - whether through a heat lamp or a space heater. Sadly, I suspect that most shipped chicks who die under the heat plate really couldn't have been saved regardless. The shipping process is completely unpredictable and can be absolutely brutal on chicks - that's one thing the research is clear about. The research is also clear that the death rate is higher for shipped chicks for weeks following shipping, so if people have chicks die 2 weeks later, those too could be linked to the fact they were shipped and have nothing to do with how they were raised subsequently. One study followed chicks for 6 weeks and death rates were still higher at 6 weeks for chicks who had been shipped vs those who hadn't - these are all chicks raised with heat lamps in the brooders. I think it's natural for us all to want to put an immediate cause to deaths - the last thing we see is chicks under the heat plate, therefore, it must be the heat plate. But the research suggests otherwise - the negative impacts of shipping are incredibly long-lasting. While more heat may help the small number of chicks on the brink and is well worth supplying, I don't think lack of heat is the cause of most shipped chick deaths. I think for the majority of shipped chicks who die, they just crawled under the heat plate because it's the most comfortable place to die. It's those ones on the brink that maybe could be helped with a higher ambient T.

[@amel2784]

@@thefeatherbrain Thank you. You have been very informative and helpful. I appreciate it very much. I think it's worth noting that I nearly lost two chicks within the first 10 minutes of putting them into my brooder. I took the first one out and introduced her to the water and set it down where there was food. I went back to the box to get the others and when I had done them one by one, I looked at the first one again and it was choking and gasping for breath. I opened its beak and looked inside and saw a plug of packed food. Fortunately I have a pair of tweezers that have ends that are bent downwards and very rounded and blunt. I ran to get the tweezers and began pulling the food out gently. I could not believe how much food was in there. When that chick had recovered (her eyes had closed and she was nearly a goner), I looked around and saw the last chick had water running out of its nostrils and was standing and gulping in a funny way I picked that chick up and looked in her mouth. It was full of liquid. I had provided a homemade electrolyte solution that had molasses in it so there was a faint color to the water ao I could see it easily. Remembering not to turn the chick upside down (thank you) I gently massaged her throat and crop a little bit and kept getting water up and out her throat. I took the corner of a piece of paper towel and gently laid it in her mouth and a little bit down her throat to absorb all the liquid. When she looked okay and was breathing, I put her down and stood shaken to the core that I had nearly lost two of my chicks within the first 10 minutes -- and now it would be touch and go. I started praying, God keep my chicks healthy despite my mistakes. I was on high alert for the next two days. I gave them vitamins and probiotics and electrolytes and everything I could think of and watched them like a hawk. 🦅 They ate and drink like they were starved. That first day, I was afraid they would continue to overeat they were so hungry so I would spread a little bit of food out on the floor and let them eat that up completely and once they were searching around and couldn't find any more, I placed more on the floor.They got used to me hovering over the brooder, staring down at them. Nine days in, and I still have all of them and, God willing, they will survive my inexperience into adulthood and live with us for many years.

[@thefeatherbrain]

@@amel2784 So glad it all worked out. :)

[@suttonfamilycrazyfarm4281]

Hello! My name is Brittany and I live in DeQueen Arkansas. Yesterday i received 15 baby polish chicks! They're my absolute favorite and I have collected all chickens with a tophat/crest! My brooder is outside under my car porch! Its been really really hot this past week with several heat advisories. I was wondering with them being outside and with it being so warm what temp should they be? The chicks are about two days old. Do I even need a heating lamp or light on them? What temp should I keep them? I've researched and researched but I find diff answers! Please help! Thanks for taking your time to inform us so that we have a healthy thriving flock! Brit

[@grandmothergoose]

I'm in Australia, and the mere notion of shipping such young chicks across the country using any kind of regular postal or courier service is nothing short of shocking and horrific to me. Live animals other than invertebrates are not allowed to be sent via our postal service, and I can't think of any regular private courier companies that would do it either. Even shipping fertile eggs is considered dubious practise here, and most breeders won't do it. Why do so many US breeders and owners consider it an acceptable thing to do when the chicks are put at so much risk? It's downright inhumane. If we want young chicks, we have to pick them up and transport them ourselves, or use a specialist animal courier service that costs a small fortune. They're living creatures, not Hallmark cards. I'm glad that at least you have done the research on how to minimise the trauma for the poor little things and put that information out there.

[@thefeatherbrain]

@grandmothergoose I 100% agree with you. Unfortunately, shipping chicks has been tradition here for over 100 years and this is the way almost everyone gets their chicks. There’s a widespread belief that the practice is not harmful in any way, and hatcheries, the post office, and farmers are constantly touting that view. One homestead breeder even recently told me that God made chicks with egg yolk sacs to sustain them for the sole purpose that people would be able to safely ship them in the mail. There was even a major airline here several years ago who refused to ship any more chicks as mail because they were seeing so many deaths. But then hatcheries, farmers, and backyard keepers all got together and lobbied the government, who now forces that airline (and other major airlines) to continue this horrific practice. I am trying to approach this topic delicately on my channel and blog because I have found if I’m too blunt, people get really defensive and just stop listening to me. So, I’ve been trying to “plant seeds” on the topic, so people don’t feel judged, but can start to understand that shipping is indeed harmful and inhumane. Thanks for commenting - I’m glad to hear people in other countries think this practice is just as bizarre and horrible as I do. I'm pretty much alone on that here. Bri

[@thefeatherbrain]

@grandmothergoose As a follow up - I was surprised to hear that most breeders don't ship fertile eggs where you're from. I've never hatched at home myself, so I don't know much of anything about this topic at all, but no one has ever criticized that practice here. I know that shipping eggs reduces the chance that the chicks will even start to develop, but are there are problems with it? Do you get chicks partially developing and then dying? Do you get live chicks with more health problems?

[@grandmothergoose]

@@thefeatherbrain The problem comes from fertile eggs being cracked, shaken, or exposed to rapid/unsuitable temperature changes. We have fantastic consumer protection laws here, but that has a negative side, nothing is perfect. If you're paying for fertile eggs, you expect a reasonable hatching rate, but when shipping, that hatching rate can become very hit and miss. Breeders usually don't want the responsibility, buyers usually don't want the risk, so few people bother with it. Some do it, I guess it comes down to personal experience, how well some people can pack, whether they're willing to go the extra mile in packaging, how much they trust the courier company they're using to not kick the packages around, etc.

[@grandmothergoose]

@@thefeatherbrain It's worth noting that big chicken companies do transport chicks here, but they use specialist transportation for it and are shipping hundreds, sometimes thousands of chicks at a time, and they have it all figured out how to do it right - which is not simply a matter of putting chicks in a cardboard box with some air holes in it and sending it through whatever postal or courier service is faster or cheaper. The EU has some very strict animal welfare laws, would be interesting to hear from some people over there what they do.

[@thefeatherbrain]

@@grandmothergoose I know some companies here do transport the chicks in climate-controlled vehicles (with temperature and humidity set at ideal settings), and if the journey is long, they will stop in climate-controlled buildings and make sure all the chicks are fed. However, not all of the big companies do that - some are transporting in very poor conditions. I think it all comes down to the bottom line and what ends up being cheaper in the long run. I don't know why animal welfare laws always lag significantly behind the EU here - perhaps cultural differences.

[@shannonfbc1]

I give the gel and water as i put them in the brooder and i have had excellent success with all my shipped chicks, i use a plate i oreheat it a day at least in advance and i have my incubator fired up and reasy for any that dont look super awesome right iut if the box.... For the backyard chicks id be careful with tge lanp recommendations withiut explaining how to do it right because ive seen to many chicks die of heat stress from being kepts too hot with no way to eascape the heat. I don't do winter chicks for obvious reasons.

[@Jill-aka-pokey]

I just got an order from cackle hatchery 😊 and I got 10 chicks and the little baby boy was very weak when he got here and he didn’t make it but the girls are thriving and I had a heat plate that I still have in there and they’re doing wonderful.❤❤

[@thefeatherbrain]

So sorry to hear the little boy didn't make it, but thrilled your girls are thriving! 💕

[@lidip8700]

CACKLE has a video explaining why they Require the Buyer, (remember when you ordered the chicks, you had to check mark that you would NOT use Heat Panels, upon arrival?) to use Heat Lamps for 7-10 days, then switch to Heat Panels.

[@lidip8700]

What breed did you buy?

[@JesusNameHomeMinistries]

I put my chicks, mail purchased and hatched under a heat lamp for 4 days and then I add the brooder plate and raise the heat lamp for a couple of days before removing it.

[@Foxxie55]

If a person heats the area up prior to arrival it might be ok, but a heat lamp will be an instant heat source that spreads out over a larger area and from above heating the chick up all over. I'm a little leary of the heat plate because it's restricted (each his own though).. I'm going to try a heat lamp without the light on my bunch that's coming in next week to see how those work.. In 2008 I hatched and raised my own turkeys, chicks, and ducks without any problems using heat lamps. Just use common sense as in all things..

[@Lizzypoohxo]

People that watch this lady lack common sense. They do way too much and wonder why their chickens don't live long. We've been raising chickens for over 10 years, both hatched by hens and recently we bought and hatched with an incubator. We've given them the special chick water and they end up with poopy butt. This last time we used plain water and none of them got it. We use paper towels for the first couple of weeks and it's easy to clean up. We've always used a heat lamp adjusting it so that there's a cooler area for the chicks and they instinctively move around if they get too warm.

[@amysperry75]

Good to know, thank you! 😊

[@maqboolahmad2746]

So how warm should the water be when the new chicks arrive?

[@maryhawken817]

So true!

[@user-zt1pq7hq6y]

My home hatched chicks get a choice between brooder plate and RED heat lamp at 102 degrees F in the brooder at floor level-my chicks alway choose the Heat Lamp-their choice-just give them a choice and let them decide.

[@thefeatherbrain]

Giving chicks/chickens a choice is usually always the best route. :)

[@user-qz7to7bu2m]

this is a great video, thank you! I went and watched the cackle video, why does he say no light (heat lamp light) after 7 -10 days? and what is the significance of humidity after hatching? I believe it to be more important than gets talked about.

[@thefeatherbrain]

Having 24/7 light is unnatural for chicks, so he's suggesting you move them to a brooder plate so that they no longer have constant light. The reason he says at 7-10 days is because chicks are significantly better able to thermoregulate at 7-10 days and can better handle the cooler ambient temperature (when the heat lamp is removed and a brooder plate added) - 7-10 days is a developmental turning point for them. What did he say about the humidity? I re-watched the video but I somehow I missed what you're referring to.

[@surgicaltechcrafter2169]

Our first set arrived dead, we were mortified, they sent out another set and arrived happy and healthy but 2 different routes. I blame DETROIT processing center. We offered to come pick them up and its only a processing center blah, blah, blah. We drive 2.5 hours now.

[@thefeatherbrain]

I'm so sorry to hear about your first set of chicks. I can't imagine how devastating that would be. I'm so incredibly lucky I've never lost a chick, but there have been a couple of times I've been close and I've bawled like a baby... I have a friend from Alaska who sounds like she had a similar experience to you - she tried to pick her chicks up an entire 24 hours earlier at the Anchorage processing center but they wouldn't let her. By the time she got them at Willow, AK, they were alive, but dying. All died within a few days. F'ing post offices...

[@MickyBellRoberts]

I was told that chicks are very tough!

[@user-zt1pq7hq6y]

I've got this funny feeling that unexperienced patrons with RED heat lamps are causing fires......so the sellers to cover their backsides from lawsuits are going the safe route-brooder plates. 250 Watts will cause a fire fast. I've got my RED heat lamp nailed to a shed 2X4-solid. My chicks love the RED heat lamp so much, that they will lay on their sides with their legs streched out like on the beach.

[@lidip8700]

Becky @Featherbrain, have you researched (or use) fermented chicken feed? I've watched a few videos on it, but Idk anyone that actually ferments their chickens' feed.

[@thefeatherbrain]

I've never fermented myself - more out of laziness then anything else. I do know Dahlia from the channel "Welcome to Chickenlandia" ferments - you should check out her videos. She's a wonderful person, from what I can tell. Although the only well-researched video I've found on fermentation comes from the channel "Chickens in my garden." I don't know what the woman's background is, but she seems all around wonderful to me. Here's her video on the research behind fermented feed - kzbin.info/www/bejne/ZmWcZa2Irbl2iJI Best, Bri

[@863NightOwl]

People that ship chicks through the mail shouldn't they throw a hand heat pack in with the chicks? there are some that last around 18 hours

[@thefeatherbrain]

Some of the hatcheries do, some don't.

[@GeorgiasGarden]

His brooder is off the floor? Is that necessary? I have brooder. First time using a plate heater. It says it must be off the floor by at least 3 feet… I have never not had a brooder on the floor. They will be here tomorrow. HELP

[@thefeatherbrain]

There's no reason I can think of why a brooder space would need to be off the floor. Are you saying the heating plate says that? If so, are you sure it says feet and not inches? I know some heat plates recommend setting the height of the plate at 3" for the chicks to go under. Sorry if I'm not understanding your question correctly...

[@JD-dh7bk]

Hi I have a question unrelated to this video. Sorry. Um last week I picked up 5 chicks from a feed store. They are fine. I like to get 1 of each breed so I can tell them apart. Anyway I was looking at information just now on one them the gold lace Wyandotte. And it says they don't like other breeds breeds and stick just with their own breed. Is this little girl gonna be a loner? I doubt the feed store has anymore for me to get. I don't want her to be lonely. I have 33 birds in total. Will my Wyandotte have trouble joining the flock?

[@thefeatherbrain]

I suspect she'll be just fine. I've seen several breeds who prefer to hang out with "their own kind," but if you're not raising her with other Wyandottes, she won't even know what her "own kind" is. She'll likely bond normally - having close relationships with some birds and not with others.

[@JD-dh7bk]

@@thefeatherbrain thanks for your help. I love your channel ❤️❤️❤️❤️

[@ECole-le7we]

How do you find healthy chicks locally like you have?

[@thefeatherbrain]

I've always purchased my chicks from Dunlap Hatchery, which is just a couple of hours away from where I live - I'm north of Horseshoe Bend, ID and Dunlap is in Caldwell, ID. I'm not promoting this hatchery - I only use them because they are within driving distance. Sadly, the woman I talk about in this video, Jackie, also purchased from Dunlap - but she lives in Illinois and it took three whole days for the chicks to get to her. However, for my next batch of chicks, I hope to purchase a straight-run of broody breeds from Dunlap. Then, I'll raise the roosters in their own bachelor flock but let them occasionally breed (voluntarily) with the young broody girls (my current flock is geriatric and not broody so I need a new set of girls if I'm going to hatch). My hope is that after that my next purchase, all future chicks will then be raised naturally by mama hens. The more natural we can be with our chicken raising, the better off our chicks will be, in my opinion. Think you ECole for asking this question and thank you for always posting helpful and positive comments. I truly appreciate your contributions.

[@ECole-le7we]

@@thefeatherbrain And thank you for your thorough science-based research, your thoughtfully articulated advocacy for the chickens that deserve it, and your humane approach to chicken keeping.

[@MosaicHomestead]

I don't use heat lamps or brooder plates, I use a off grid 12v light bulb, I dont order chick, I'll either buy local or hatch, I have never lost a chick.

[@cc8751]

You hatch? And you've never lost a chick? Uh huh. Sure.

[@MosaicHomestead]

@@cc8751 Fertilized eggs hatch, I help hatching if need be, it's nasty but works lol

[@thefeatherbrain]

I've never had chicks shipped either. I buy from the local hatchery, but my hope is to hatch them naturally under broody hens in the future. Means I'll still buy once more from the hatchery (broody breeds because I don't have any), but then I hope to be able to just breed my own and let the mama hens do their work. Seems like they're so much healthier the more natural they're raised. Have you used hens to hatch before?

[@MosaicHomestead]

@@thefeatherbrain yes, multiple times, but loose chicks to mongoose

[@user-oi5xt1sr7m]

My Chicks 🐣🐥 are Dieing from hunger and Cold ❄️ 😭😭😭😢😭😭😭😢😭😭

[@WestTexasGentleman]

The music is too ‘dark’… depressing

[@forced4motorsports]

I've always used a brooder plate. These heat lamp claims from Cackle are bunk. The hatchery in question here should just reimburse or replace these chicks and stop the nonsense.

[@konradrueb1567]

Once chicks get chilled its a crap shoot.brooder plates aren't farm orientated there more useful for small batches .I use hogg slant brooder light securely attached not flimsily attached .Safety first!!!! Shipping does cause stress and dehydration.