DO the little foam speaker baffles actually do anything?

[@Angel_xXx_76]

I use the Recoil Audio branded silicon baffles that are open in the back. It definitely protects my door speakers from water and splashes in the door panel. When I didn’t use them my last set of speakers were rusted on the back side. They also provide enough material in the front which bumps up against my door panel which seals & forces the sound straight into the cab as you just proved.

[@CarAudioEnthusiasts]

sweet prolly a good price too

[@haygood9]

I’ve always used speaker baffles front and back doors. Never under stood why people don’t like them, baffles along with some sound deadening and fast rings makes awesome sound. 🙏🏾 thanks for this video I hope 10,000 people watch it.

[@ratherbe7]

I use these a lot on motorcycle audio and they make a huge difference in overall sound.

[@forog1]

I use them as a cheap option when I put smaller mid-range that are not sealed back in the same box as a much bigger speaker. Like when i put a 6.5inch with a 10inch speaker. If I need is mids the baffles are a great option vs getting beat-up by the back waves from the bigger speaker and in its box, the 6.5inch would be basically free airing as well if left unchecked in the box fit for a bigger speaker so the baffle helps tighten the mids up nicely. But be aware that your speaker/door speakers will become midranges no matter the speaker due to the small air space using the foam baffle cups so it will kill the low end if they are able to play them like kills bass up to around 80hz~120hz depending on speaker and size but, in my case, I wanted my midrange to play nothing below 100hz for my 6.5s, so these are perfect.

[@Grommet2007]

Car audio drivers designed for mounting in doors (or on the rear package try) are typically designed for "infinite baffle" use, i.e. housed in any very big enclosure. I tried using foam baffles and didn't like the result until I cut part of the bottom away from them. That way I got the benefit of the water protection and the midbass performance was not affected.

[@Mastermindyoung14]

that's what I thought

[@marckendrick3163]

I used some in a wrangler YJ. A LOT of moisture in the doors. Modified pretty darn good. I got some deeper mids by it, too. It protect very well but it's a jeep. It is what it is. 👍

[@CarAudioEnthusiasts]

Thanks for sharing

[@BlackPanther-oo4zj]

Yep they make a big difference.

[@CharlesDowiot-qv7pp]

Yes they Do work excellent They would Make custom Cover would clip over the speaker for clear sound ✨️

[@natehaviland3244]

Use a heat gun instead of duct tape, that foam will seal just fine. Hold it together and peel up the seam hit it in between for a second with the heat on high and put it together, work your way around. Its great for prototyping layouts as well. Good to know I don't have to waste money on those baffles cuz the same foam you used to test is what I machine daily. Will be adding rings and backs to every speaker as I've got new vehicle new build this summer. Definitely will help til I can properly deaden.

[@CarAudioEnthusiasts]

yea this stuff works well to couple and baffle, though you will still need mass to deaden.

[@jeffallen6937]

Thanks for the vid. Im sold.

[@CarAudioEnthusiasts]

Glad I could help

[@josephsaucedo8691]

A while Back I went to a stereo shop and ask if they had those baffles for the doors. The guys that worked there Said that they were a waste of money and there know need for the baffles wich I thought was kinda ridiculous. Even if they don't believe there a improvement you would think it will at least pertect it for the elements. They also told me that they were no longer made. I wasn't surprised just about any speaker with the currect size incloser is going to sound better then being mounted on some thing with a large space behind it.💯👍✌️

[@CarAudioEnthusiasts]

well in the relm of mids, the size isnt extremely important, the sealed off effect is more important.

[@tyronedixon7404]

Very cool content.

[@pumapunkudevelopment3376]

They do make speakers sound more dynamic and more powerful but only at close range. so if you the type that jams with the windows down mostly, you will not benefit from it. Test it. do one door and not the other then walk away you will be able to tell which has the baffle because the sound will dissipate faster. The one without the baffle you will be able to listen further. but inside the car with windows up you will like the one with the baffle. At least that is how I experienced it.

[@jaysonwilliam850]

Interesting 🧐🧐🧐

[@DramaWhoreJeepGirls-357]

I agree this isn't a good test but your comparison suggestion would be a real world scenario.

[@DwightStebner]

does the packing foam work well or should something softer be used? FYI I am frugal.

[@CarAudioEnthusiasts]

yea it can work.

[@tedroybal5231]

They work if your goal is zero bass. 99% of car speakers are designed for the door/trunk as the enclosure.

[@CarAudioEnthusiasts]

you are correct, most 6.5s and such for car audio are in fact made for IB applications. and the baffles DO reducing the lows that the speakers can play, but since they are very soft they dont shut down lows like you might think. and they handle phase cancelation very well, which helps low response quite a bit.

[@DwightStebner]

curious if the foam makes a difference or could something like a Tupperware container be glued inside the door?

[@CarAudioEnthusiasts]

it could, sure. it would infact make a small rigid enclosure. just a bit of a project to make it happen! find a good epoxy that works well with painted metal and plastics. figure out a way to hold it till the epoxy sets, Pre route your speaker wires, make sure youre not blocking the window or window regulator. and BAM!

[@CarAudioEnthusiasts]

I would however warn you that the rigidity of the bowl will reduce the bass response quite a bit more than the soft foam will. so i would only use the bowl if you have a sub somewhere to handle those lows

[@DwightStebner]

@@CarAudioEnthusiasts these would only bee used in doors with component and coaxial speakers

[@Narcolepsykid]

I run my speaker wire through a hole in the bottom of the foam

[@jaredhamilton6913]

Constructive criticism: And they’re going to hold heat now 👎. And your test was really not comparable to a car- a door is a huge place, and you have an itty bitty box that seals on the back with the thing on there. You’re hearing the absence and presence of backwaves. Uh, the door panel does that already in a door. The test isn’t accurate. Most door speakers are made for IB or larger sealed applications, all of which remove the backwave from the passengers ear by way of the door panel that’s there. So dampen it, decouple it, do what we will, but adding heat and starving IB speakers for air is not a great solution. ,

[@CarAudioEnthusiasts]

ok, but the speaker is not mounted on the IB they are mounted to a framework of metal behind the baffle. this does nothing to separate front and back waves, and the "baffle" act more like a filter, since its just a hole on front of the free air driver. as far as heat goes, id say if youre relying on that metal cavity exposed to direct sunlight, dust rain ect for cooling the coil of a driver, you MIGHT be running a bit too much power. having said that, yes door drivers are designed for IB, with a QTS near .707, but most door panels are far from any kind of baffle. also the foam cup things are very soft, they are much less restrictive than the foam i used. was my test perfect? no, do the foam things reduce bass output in some cases? yes do they also help with badly implemented speaker chamber design? yes. do they also help with weather protection? yes. and the coupling rings do wonders for getting sound through that hole in the plastic panel. I do appreciate the comment though, and youre on the right track, just remember some doors have issues that others dont, and while one door may work pretty well as an IB, others arent even in the ball park.

[@jaredhamilton6913]

@@CarAudioEnthusiasts nice point, but we also have other ways to kill backwaves. Blocking a speaker into the “heat-soaking door” that you describe makes the issue of heat worse. To correct that, one must cut the pop-in baffles, and then have to deal with backwaves yet again. How do you correct it? Decouple or deaden the door panel. One and done. The backwave is minimized. To go deeper, you can use different foams etc to help with upper mids and use a few CLD tiles to dampen the sheet metal. Both of which, by the way, help insulate the “metal panel in sunlight” that you mention.