Do this for easy filament changes in Orca Slicer

[@adimella]

A shout-out and great content?! :D a HUGE thank you. I learned a lot! Your Orca content, as always, is 10/10! Thanks to you my machines are running awesome!

[@fischer3d]

Head over to Fictiv and check out all their great capabilities and super easy process for uploading and quoting parts. Use code "Fischer3D" at check out to get 10% off your order. bit.ly/fischer3d-fictiv

[@tomshepp1]

Thank you so much! Just got the Creality Ender 3 V3 KE and really struggled to get the profile setup in Cura so I could do multicolour printing. I downloaded the Orca Slicer and it has the printer profile available. Your video was awesome and I learned a lot. I am using the Creality Print for one colour prints but will use Orca Slicer for multicolour using a single extruder.

[@DatHondaBoi223]

did you use m600?

[@couryswan2448]

HOLY CRAP THIS WAS EXTREAMLY HELPFUL THANK YOU GOOD SIR!

[@kaedeschulz5422]

Thanks a lot! didn't think it was that simple.

[@borayurt66]

I wish you've shown the actual printing too, because when a filament change is added like this, the printer starts normally, does the priming line, but instead of starting to print, the print head goes up, retracts the filament which was already in, and starts waiting for you to insert the first filament, even though it was there to start with. Now, you have to re-insert the filament, extrude some and manually press the resume button to start the print. By this time, the nozzle pressure is lost, some filament has already oozed out and the first layer starts without a priming line and a bad under extrusion. This needs to be corrected. Orca slicer version 2.2.0, Creality CR-10SE

[@simondeligiannidis4008]

I did what you said. I wanted to change filament at the 6th layer and the 10th. The problem is that when it started printing it wanted to change the filament at the beginning.

[@fischer3d]

maybe try the alternate way. go to about the 4 minute mark in the video. instead of adding the m600 in the printer settings you can just delete that and in the preview on the right hand slider, right-click and say change filament or add custom g-code (enter the m600). That way the m600 at the start will be omitted. The other way would be to open the g-code file in notepad and delete the first m600.

[@simondeligiannidis4008]

@@fischer3d thanks man! I added M600 as a custom gcode at the specified layer that I wanted to change the filament and it worked like a charm! Sad though, because with the other way you can change the color of the filament and it looks very nice when you slice it!

[@MitsumiKory]

Super helpul, thank you!

[@leonardojoaquim8262]

Good explanation! The thing is. At the pause, the nozzle goes all the way to the back and far right site of the bed so I can make the filament change. How can I change the nozzle pause position? Such as X0 and Y0.

[@joshb499]

Really helpful video, thankyou! The bit that I was struggling with was the different print speeds or different layer heights, for example, after the filament change. Judging by what you said at the end of the video, this cant be changed for different filaments?

[@spacemonkey1472]

You can!!! You will need to add a Modifier and you will be able to change speeds when you change filaments.

[@RobertArmstrong-xm9zg]

Thank you..learn something new..going to try 2 color tomorrow

[@jeremyvandyke9890]

Thanks for the great video! I have a question in Orca. If I am printing my main print in PLA, how can I print the supports in PTEG for easy removal? Or even just the support interface layer in PTEG?

[@fischer3d]

try this kzbin.info/www/bejne/fqbbgoGQfdRqnJY

[@TaderSamich]

I'm about to find out if silk pla will stick to regular pla... 😁 I was just thinking to avoid having to deal with adding/removing m600 or dealing with re-inserting filament, I could copy over my printer profile and name it "color change" and add the m600 on that profile. Not sure if it works that way but I'll test it out when I get home

[@fischer3d]

Awesome. Let me know how it works out.

[@ammmze]

You can use this for the custom change filament gcode, then it won't pause on that first layer. Though if you ever try to add a mid layer filament change on the first layer, it wouldn't run on the first layer because of the "if" condition. {if layer_num > 0} M600 {endif} Another thing to note is using the "Change Filament" thing is better if you have tuned filament profiles (flow rate, pressure advance) as those changes will be included with the "Change Filament" method. And also not sure if its something with my profile, but it also adds toolchange macros (T0, T1, etc) commands, so I had to add those macros to klipper (and just have them do nothing) or manually remove them from the gcode after slicing.

[@ammmze]

Actually, this would work even better. Apparently there is a variable named "toolchange_count" that is incremented for each tool change. So by using this, then effectively the first tool change does NOT do the M600, but if you are able to do a mid layer filament change on the first layer it should still get the M600. {if toolchange_count > 1} M600 {endif}

[@walloutlet]

Or…. in printer settings under the multimaterial tab, check the ‘Manual Filament Change’ box to tell Orca that you don’t have multiple toolheads and the first layer change problem disappears.

[@RCpropo]

you hit the nail with this video. Thanks!

[@crooker2]

It would seem they could add a base speed modifier setting for filament types in case you wanted to modify the speed by a certain percentage. Then it would just adjust everything up or down by that percentage while that filament is printing. Or just default to 100% for no change.

[@13osco]

A BIT LATE MAYBE, im tryng orca slicer on my old ender 3. so thi vid was veeeery helpful. Now i need to figure our how to change esteps. Probably with custom gcode also? an m92 like cura custom start gcode?

[@fischer3d]

Try this. kzbin.info/www/bejne/qYu6oYp3mduJjNE I did this on my old ender3

[@simondeligiannidis4008]

Great information man! Thanks a lot! Any idea how to make an orca generated gcode file to show elapsed time on lcd on Anycubic Kobra 2 Neo?

[@poppin_freshgaming4334]

I'm also using Orca, but with Klipper. A little annoying the slicer is assuming there is no filament loaded at the start so it inserts M600 in the beginning. Would prefer it prints normal to the point you ask for a filament change at a certain layer and then calls M600. It worked for me somewhat, but there was a little goofiness from the initial pause i didn't realize happened.

[@fischer3d]

Gotcha, Check out around minute 4:15ish. Instead of dropping on the m600 at the printer settings level, you can use the preview and on the layer slider on the right side of the screen, you can right-click and add custom gcode. then you can drop in your filament change code directly. This should avoid that initial m600 problem at the start of the print. I had the same issue.

[@gas_rc7238]

Maybe too late for an answer, but you just need to turn "Manual filament change" option Printer>>Multimaterial>>Manual filament change

[@oswaldoamaldonado6778]

Qué gran laminador es Orca Slicer.

[@SkillLearn-px2ic]

how i put mannual bed and nozzle temparature in orca slicer i search all settings but not find

[@fischer3d]

nozzle and bed temps are governed by the filament settings. next to the name of your filament there is an icon to "edit presets" there you can set the nozzle and bed temps

[@sreihart]

Getting ready to do my first 2-filament (color change only, same type PETG) and I found your video. My problem however, is that I have an AMS and my first filament is in it. The 2nd filament I have to use the spool holder on the back of the Bambu X1-Carbon because the spool is cardboard and it won't work in the AMS. When I send something to the printer in Orca, I have to deselect the AMS if I'm using the spool holder on the back. I don't see a way around this, so I'm guessing that I will have to use both spools on the back? Unless you know another G-code to alter that? I'm very new, less than 4 weeks, at 3D printing. And, I'm an old dog, so things don't come to me as easily as before.

[@fischer3d]

Sorry. Not sure how to solve that one. I found a couple of folks attempting the same with Bambu Studio, reading over the steps it looks like you might be able to try something similar with Orca. forum.bambulab.com/t/multimaterial-printing-using-both-ams-and-the-spool-holder/29602/3

[@sismo99]

Hi excelllent video, one question, is there any way to solve the problem of the fiorst m600 (unloading the filamenbt alredy On the machine) and only let the change fialment please thanks

[@fischer3d]

Hi there. Thanks for the comment. If you're adding the m600 under the machine presets then you would probably be limited to opening the gcode file and deleting that first m600 command, saving the file, then running the newly saved file. If you use the second method in the video (around the 4:15 mark) you could remove the m600 from the machine preset and add the m600 using the "Add Custom G-Code" option in the slice preview. This would only process the specific m600(s) you enter.

[@zakaroonetwork777]

How to pause and park every layer for in synced time lapses photos?

[@RandoTechNerd]

not sure if you got a response but an "easy" way to get timelapse is using octoprint if you have an old android phone or tablet to use for the project

[@iagmr]

Thank you, That was easy.

[@iAmAzwell]

I just did my first multi-color print using Orca Slicer. It came out fine, but I had two issues... After changing the filament there was no nozzle wipe, so I had some strings I could have avoided otherwise. The color change happened like 5 times, rather than once. I think maybe it was programmed into the model that way? How can I prevent that?

[@fischer3d]

What printer do you have? Also, it kinda depends on the model. if there are multiple colors in the same layer, it will generally have to switch filament regularly. It typically wont print all one color first then switch over to do all of the other color. This is to avoid collisions. Again, this all depends on the model. If you didn't color yourself in Orca, there could be some errors in the color fills in the model causing excess changes. So you have a link to the file you want me to look at?

[@Mr.T-HUX]

It is really stupid thing that you can't change speeds or use another filament settings.. It's only works for color change but you can't use it with different plastics like PETG+TPU.. Thank you for tutorial man! It's really helps.

[@RobertArmstrong-xm9zg]

Quick question..why when I add a M600 at layer..does the paint layers keep changing? Like I add it at 11..rezlice and then it shows color change on 10 instead of 11 it use to be

[@RandoTechNerd]

I think it jumps to the closest 5th layer try using your arrow keys to choose specific layer

[@definitelynotchadfish]

Is there a way to get the printer to extrude the filament after a filament change instead of having to push it through manually to get to the next color?

[@fischer3d]

What type of printer do you have?

[@definitelynotchadfish]

​@@fischer3d Ender 3-v3 SE. I think Iended up just doing this manually. Weirdly, I'm back to doing a filament change on something again. And now when I right click, the option to filament change isn't there. So using gcode it is, I guess.

[@xargon1234]

Instead of putting change filiament like that hit the custom gcode and add a m600 this will make it so it wont try and load filament at the start. i think there is a fix for this coming in one of the new builds that will allow a manual filament change. right now it seems to be setup for the bambu ams so it calls commands for that

[@yasin_uyghur]

Thank you very much for your tutorials. May I ask how can I add the time lapse gcode in orca slicer ? Cura slicer has a script like Insert layer change , I couldn’t find this setting in orca slicer ? I’d like make Timelapse video in orca slicer … please help

[@pixelcraft3d_01]

Thanks!

[@kitkat0981]

I have a Ender 3 V3 KE and it has a filament sensor so the M600 wont stop and give me time to replace the filament, it just starts up again.

[@maxs6412]

bonjour, merci beaucoup pour votre vidéo qui m'a été très utile. MERCI

[@vdubs4life1964]

they need to put speeds in the setting override section of filament profiles.

[@ego5267]

Do i need to add a pause so i can manually change my filament?

[@fischer3d]

all depends on the type of printer. In Marlin gcode an M25 command is a pause or dwell. if your printer also has the "Park on pause" enabled then when an m25 is issued it'll park the head in a predetermined location. You can then change filament and resume the print. If your pause command also includes a temperature setting to cool down the head you'll just need to be aware of that. An m600 itself should theoretically take care of all of that. Generally you would not issue an m600 and m25 together.

[@ego5267]

@@fischer3d i have the first ender 3, i tried to print aith change filament but it didn't pause print, is it also because of the firmware?

[@fischer3d]

Could be. Do you know what version it is running? Looks like m600 has been available since Marlin 1.1.0, but pretty sure the the original ender had something like 1.0.3.

[@ego5267]

@@fischer3d im running 2.0.6 , it is working, i notice that the temp changed because i had different temps for diff filament. I thought that "change filament" it will pause and wait for me to press resume to change filament, but i think thats not it?

[@fischer3d]

interesting. are you sure that's not the Creality FW version? it should have a pretty annoying beep and prompt you to press the knob to resume printing after filament change. I'll have to power up my old ender and see what version i've got running.

[@scotthull260]

So I know this video was done 10 months or so ago but I tried the process you describe to change the filament at a particular layer. The first try just blew right on through the layer where I expected it to pause and allow me to change (and no beeps either). Then I tried adding into my machine (Ender v3) profile Manual Filament Change under Multimaterial. No joy there either. Now I am trying M25 under the Change filament G-code also in the machine profile. If that doesn't work, do I have to insert the gcode manually at that layer (you can't do both the filament change and something else when doing it this way)? Orca Slicer 2.1.0. Thanks in advance for any tips!

[@scotthull260]

So M25 at least paused the print so I could change the filament.

[@fischer3d]

Isn't the ender v3 klipper based firmware? or is it marlin based? If klipper you'd have to investigate a bit on executing the pause and filament change. I believe it works differently than marlin.

[@ishimarumakot0]

@@fischer3d ender 3 v3 is marlin

[@elidari60]

Hi, after entered, M600 it stops moved to the side like it supposed to but immediately goes back to print. It doesn’t give me a chance to place the magnets. Or filament in a different colors What should I do? Thank you, Eli.

[@fischer3d]

What printer do you have?

[@elidari60]

Ender 3 S1 Pro Thank you.

[@Alaorath]

Upvote for "easy-peasy, lemon squeezy"

[@gotenks157]

I was going crazy looking for where to actually add the pause. Thank you. Also you touch your hair a lot lol.

[@RobertArmstrong-xm9zg]

@gotenks157 same..couldn't find it anywhere

[@McSSm]

Creality K1 Max. M600 not working.( Printing didn't stop for changing filament

[@fischer3d]

Unfortunately, I don't think Klipper supports M600 commands directly. Looks like you might have to implement a filament change using a macro instead. I haven't researched this much yet so wont be a big help. Looks like there are some reddit threads and some youtube videos on creating macros in klipper that might help.

[@McSSm]

​@@fischer3d"Pause" working. Not as "changing color", but just as pause

[@h3h3umm]

Can you just simply right click add the "pause" feature?

[@oqueeutofazendoaqui]

Anyone knows about klipper codes?

[@jamesbond4349]

Hi, thanks for this great info, but it dont work for me, i follow step by step your tutorial! I can select filament change…but it appears in the screen. I added the g-code and the 2 filament too....

[@fischer3d]

What kind of printer do you have? What firmware (marlin or klipper)?

[@jamesbond4349]

@@fischer3d Hi, its marlin, i solved the problem just select another print profile and its good To go! Thanks

[@scottwilloughby6422]

Have you used a .06 nozzle with an creality printer yet , haven't seen that anyone has a profile and was going to start working on one and figured I would ask your opinion

[@fischer3d]

I exclusively use a .6 nozzle on my printers. For years in fact. My Orca & Ideamaker profiles are all .6 based nozzles.

[@fischer3d]

Happy to help you come up with a "golden" profile if you like?

[@scottwilloughby6422]

Would be greatful for and thing your willing to share

[@scottwilloughby6422]

Watching your videos has inspired me to try orca slicer it seems so much better than cura

[@adimella]

AWESOME! I just went .6 on all my machines too! A Fischer3D-approved .6 Orca profile would be the BEST! @@fischer3d

[@simonroffe9470]

Really hope someone answers. I love your content and have a question. I've been trying to fix an issue, I use the filament change option in Orca like you do, but when I do that, and then start the print again, it shifts a little, so its now skewed. I don't know how to fix this, been trying to fix for a couple days. Can you offer a suggestion? Is it from the Z-hop?

[@fischer3d]

interesting. It normally wouldn't be something like z-hop by itself. is it skewed in the x and y or in the Z? When manually changing filament with my old Ender I had to be super careful not to press too much on the print head while changing the filament or the nozzle position gets thrown off.

[@simonroffe9470]

@@fischer3d It was working fine before but now its not. Even when I use pause, M600, or filament change, it still moves over a little. It's skewed on the Y, not X or Z. What do you suggest? It was working perfectly before and now it's not, no matter what I do.

[@fischer3d]

If you haven't already, maybe do a control test.. What I'd suggest is let it go through the pause, but don't actually change the filament or touch the head, then just resume the print. See if that by itself causes the shift. If so, and it's still in Y i'd be looking at something mechanical like belt tension. What type of printer do you have?

[@simonroffe9470]

@@fischer3d I actually did that before you suggested it. It still shifted. I have the ender 3v3 KE. You think it's belt tension? Tighten or loosen?

[@jackells-wood4598]

I’ve tried this and when the print started it did the purge line then went straight for a filament change at layer 1 and then missed a few cm of the print is there any advice on how to change this?

[@fischer3d]

Check around minute 4:15ish. To avoid that starting filament change you can insert custom gcode and add the m600 at a specific spot.

[@gil80]

the change filament option is greyed out

[@christiancadiz4012]

this works on Creality K1/K1 Max?

[@fischer3d]

I believe the K1 runs Klipper firmware so the M600 command wont work directly as it does in Marlin. For klipper there is a macro you need to create in order to facilitate filament changes.

[@dill7950]

Fantastic. Thank you

[@pjhgerlach]

Looks great. If only the software would start....

[@joeldeyup7564]

Hello, good evening. I have this error with the filament change that you mentioned at the beginning. When I start a print, the M600 command is activated without allowing me to print anything. How can I fix it?

[@fischer3d]

Good evening. Thanks for reaching out. Assuming you are running Marlin FW..? If you set the m600 command in the machine presets it basically assumes you have no filament loaded initially (even if you do). So it will initiate a m600 to start, eject your filament and wait. What I had to do in this case was simply reload my filament back into the extruder then press the knob on my Ender 3. It would then start the print. Once it got to my next m600 command it repeated the process (moved the head, ejected the filament, and waited for me to load filament and press the control knob to continue the print). I try to explain this a bit around the 5:45 mark in the video, but probably not very well.

[@dman38]

Newb here. What is a Filament G-Code?

[@fischer3d]

no worries. we were all newbs at one point. what type pf printer do you have? under the printer settings you can manually add g-code to change filament. This particular video would be a reference if you're using something like and ender 3 that has Marlin based g-code and you'd use an m600 command to initiate a printer pause to change the filament.

[@dman38]

@@fischer3d Flashforge Adventure 5m. No idea what a G-Code is. Need to research.

[@EngineeredKaos]

Great video, quickly answered my question. Two suggestions, look at the camera and stop playing with your hair.

[@ondablv]

thx

[@dasinc]

mmm I did the 'right click' option to add a filament change......my printer ignored it. doh!

[@stepe5652]

pitty theres no info how to get those + - buttons to add filament, that you have to check it in printer settings and check that you manualy change filaments also. with that info it would be complete and 10/10

[@hansherrera6969]

al i want is for orca to print faster but it won't and i know it will go faster on cura but i hate cura

[@McSSm]

Where's vase mode in Orca?

[@fischer3d]

video incoming... look under the Process>Others>Special Mode section>Spiral Vase

[@McSSm]

@@fischer3d Tnx!!!

[@janisdambergs4362]

Does not work on ender 3S1 pro

[@gennadiimorozov2128]

Спасибо автору за видео. Привет из России...

[@marine1718]

Bad instructions on filament change if you only have 1 head u need to use m600 only