Multi-Color 3D Printing with a Single Extruder.

[@Dunamis_82]

Really enjoyed this video. Most videos out there dont show changing out filaments with single extruder prints. They show before and after, and you showed some of the changes. Subbed!

[@DaveRigDesign]

Thanks 🙏

[@UncleJessy]

Wow! I honestly had no idea you could do this with a single extruder printer

[@DaveRigDesign]

That makes two of us :) So many possibilities…

[@EpicGear3D]

@@DaveRigDesign can you show me how?

[@EpicGear3D]

i mean in slicer.

[@DaveRigDesign]

Just download the file and import the .3mf file into Bambu or orca and the it will mostly setup for you.

[@rockspider2263]

Really Cool 😎Well done!

[@DaveRigDesign]

Thanks 🙏

[@mikekiske]

@@DaveRigDesign Hi, there. Noob question, here. Why that rectangle shape was made at 03:32? To clean up the nozzle? Thanks.

[@DaveRigDesign]

At first I was printing with a print tower which is where the printer prints a little inner square before going to the print. It’s to make sure there is not colour bleeding when changing.

[@mikekiske]

@@DaveRigDesign Oh, nice. Thanks.

[@MrRufos86]

im doing something similar - with Prusa slicer , i keep the bed hot and i have a separate file for each color , so when one color is done i need to change the filament and run the next file .

[@DaveRigDesign]

Each colour is a different file? Don’t you have the nozzle running into the previous colours printed? Using the multi colour printing with pauses to change colour the machine knows what is already printed and avoids it.

[@MrRufos86]

I set it to a max high of 3 layers, and there is enough room for the nozzle to move on the table without hitting the other printed parts . I never used Orca, but it looks great, and I'm all in to test it . Can you share a bit about how to set the multicolor manually ? Thanks

[@DaveRigDesign]

You could do the same thing in Prusa slicer, you would just have to manually set the colour change points, then the printer will pause for you to change the filament. In Orca you can just add multiple colours to the print and then paint which parts you want to be which colour and then the pause points will be auto added. Now that I think of it, I'm pretty sure you can do the same thing in Prusa, just paint different colours and it will add the pauses per layer.

[@isaiah_simonds]

@@DaveRigDesign z hopping is what i used for 3 colors

[@DaveRigDesign]

@Genesis_Network Z hopping? Not sure what you mean?

[@mikekiske]

I noticed some "gaps" in those eyes. Would the fuzzy skin effect would "mask" that poor filling? Or any other tips...

[@DaveRigDesign]

Don’t think fuzzy skin would do anything. Just need the 1st layer dialed in so lays down the proper line thickness. There weren’t any gaps in the print, on issue on the white is there was some stringing on the black layer I didn’t catch that got embedded in the white.

[@mikekiske]

@@DaveRigDesign Sorry my words. English is not my first language. ;o) But I am glad you could understand what I meant. Thanks for your feedback.

[@FounderOf4]

Hey there - I'm trying to figure out the manual filament swapping. Did you put some type of pause code into the file so you would know when to swap? So you didn't just have to stand next to the machine all day and hit pause at the right time Thanks in advance!

[@DaveRigDesign]

Yes. Orca slicer will put in a pause for each color change.

[@FounderOf4]

@@DaveRigDesign awesome, thanks for the quick reply AND great content!

[@sichernichtmitnamen7345]

​@@DaveRigDesign Okay - I need to give Orca Slicer a try...

[@KevinVargas-wh4kf]

Very good video and work! Is the build plate the one the comes by default?

[@DaveRigDesign]

Thanks 🙏. Yes that’s the included build plate

[@JoSeph-cu2sr]

Looks terrible....

[@DaveRigDesign]

🤨