Do You Need 2 Smart Switches for a 3 Way Switch?

[@DougCube]

@19:36 If the travelers on the load side are red and black then they were red and black on the line side also (same cable), it's just that they were covered in white paint. I use some sandpaper to take the paint off, especially on bare ground wires. When I paint walls, I mask off the electrical boxes to prevent such silly overspray.

[@RaymondCanDoIt]

Good idea!

[@mikeoreilly4020]

I'm pretty sure you did a lot of extra work connect the wires to the Kasa switch. I just installed a couple of these by lifting up the plate under the terminal screws and just inserting a straight wire under it and tightening it down with the terminal screw. No making hooks or unscrewing the screws all the way out. The wire is trapped securely under the little plate.

[@RaymondCanDoIt]

Yes, I'm sure I probably did more work than needed. Old habits die hard.

[@ColnHydorn]

Great video. However, a little confused. on your face plate for the primary switch, it was marked as 24 and on the secondary switch it was marked as 19. shouldn't they have both been marked 24. On the primary switch, you said the traveler wires were black and white, but on the secondary the travelers were black and red. It would seem the travelers should have been the same color since the travelers run from the primary to the secondary switch. Is it possible the traveler on the first switch is actually red but got painted white somewhere during construction. Still good video very informative

[@RaymondCanDoIt]

You are right both times. There were other lights in the switch box linked to circuit 19. Also, the red travel wire was painted white.

[@laurenzimakenzi6726]

Can you explain how to add to Kasa App? I couldn't😢

[@RaymondCanDoIt]

Just download the kasa app. Add device. It should be HS210, but check the model on your device.

[@jacknjill777]

So Raymond, what you're saying is that one switch in a 3-way can be a dumb 3-way switch and the other a 3-way Kasa...am I understanding?

[@RaymondCanDoIt]

Yes, that's correct.

[@DougCube]

You can actually install the smart switch on either side (line side or load side), or both sides (mainly for aesthetics). A few other youtubers showed it was fine. I recently installed over 20 of these, including a 4-way situation.

[@RaymondCanDoIt]

I didn't know that was possible. Thanks!

[@jrivera1360]

Do you have the link to install it in both sides?

[@DougCube]

@@jrivera1360 You just have to treat the load wire (going to the light) as if it was the line wire coming from the breaker. It's symmetric.

[@afreedom6286]

I am sooooo GRATEFUL! This answer will save you COUNTLESS HOURS. It’s the best and simplest explanation I’ve found anywhere and I’ve been researching this for days! Im installing two 3-way smart dimmer switches (amazon basics) and was struggling to keep the 2nd smart dimmer switch from disconnecting and stopping working. I thought I had it connected correctly since everything worked and powered on and it’s the mirror image of the 1st switch downstairs so it all seemed like it was good. Except…..it wouldn’t stay connected and lights would flicker and them the 2nd switch would just fail. So I thought it must be the switch. But I decided yo do some research first to see if I may have wired it wrong or there was another way to wire it since it’s 2 smart dinner switches being installed. After a week of researching and trying to rewire so many times and then changing one of them back to a standard switch (that also was failing ) I was at my wits end. I Could not figure it out and almost gave up until I read this very simple and easy to understand answer. I simply took the load wire from the 1st switch downstairs and connected it to the line (hot) black wire (so then I had 3 wired connected in that wire nut not just 2 anymore) and everything works perfectly now! I couldnt believe it. Took me 5 minutes to open that box, reconnect that load wire and close the box and screw on the cover plate. That easy! Thank you, thank you, thank you @DougCube! You are awesome for dumbing this down for the rest of us. @@DougCube

[@sammieseoul5544]

good video.. going to purchase the voltage tester

[@RaymondCanDoIt]

Thanks for the comment! I definitely recommend the voltage tester.

[@manintoynenam]

What model did u use?

[@RaymondCanDoIt]

There is a link in the video description.

[@PeterDavila-mx9ni]

As Raymond mentioned, it's important to reemphasize this. Older homes, built just a few years ago, were not required to have the electric Neutral wire in the switch box. But, most smart electric switches, 1-way or 3-way types, will need the neutral wire connected to it to operate. So, check for that. This reminder will save you from taking that unnecessary trip to the hardware store to buy a switch that you may not be able to connect, until you fix that. Ask me how I found out.

[@RaymondCanDoIt]

Thanks for the PSA again!

[@patfink1954]

Thank you for the video. Ir really helped. BTW, it's my understanding that the "plate" under each screw allow the wire to be inserted and then clamped down with the screw. No need for any "clockwise" hook.

[@RaymondCanDoIt]

Thanks for the comment. Yes, you are correct. You could just put the wore under the plate.

[@TheHuyviet]

I installed only one smart switch at the main switch (power line from breaker) . It works fine when manually turn on/off at either smart or standard 3-way switch. However, the Kasa and Alexa apps do not show the light status correctly so I am not able to know whether it is on or off to turn off or on although it does switch the light on/off at the app when I click the button. The schedule setup doesn't work as I set to turn off at sun rise and on at sun set. I tried using time on/off too but same problem. I tried multiple of the smart switches but had the same problem. I am disappointed that TP-link does test their firmware enough for these problems

[@RaymondCanDoIt]

Thanks for the comment. Yea, I agree it's glitchy, especially when integrating with the alexa app. Did you see if there was an firmware update for the device?

[@TheHuyviet]

@@RaymondCanDoIt Thanks for the reply. Yes, I did update the firmware but no help. I now notice when the light status (circle) at the switch is always on regardless my outside light is turned on or off then the switch can't schedule to turn off although schedule to turn on is ok. So, I think this defective switch thinking it is already off (status is on) then no need to turn off. I have this problem with multiple switches. I was successfully installed and scheduled sunrise/sunset ok only one of them, this is because the status at the switch does show on when the light is off and on when the light is off which is correct.

[@mikeeasy8842]

hey thanks for this, i was hoping you could elaborate or give me some insight before I do this. My plan is to have a 3 way switch with the main switching running the neutral and is the only smart switch. Would I still be able to turn on and off my switches with google home app / voice? From my understanding you are saying that the smart switch doesn't know if its on or off. To simplify: what issues can I expect if the main switch is smart and the other switch is dumb? I would like to control my lights on and off via voice and app. Thank you

[@mattkoenig]

I know this is an old video but wanted to comment anyway that this video explaining that you need the wifi switch in the first position in the circuit resolved an issue where my first switch was always powering off my wifi switch which was second in line. Swapped them around and everything working as it should. Great video and great explanations.

[@RaymondCanDoIt]

Glad you thought the video was helpful!

[@---GOD---]

It doesn't matter what side you install the switch on. This issue is typically due to one of the traveller wires being swapped with the load/line wire. If you swap them on both ends it should be fine. 3-way switches are a little tricky if you're working with someone else's wiring. You'll have to play around with it to figure out which wire is which.

[@vishalpatel710]

If I order a single pole smart switch can I use it for the primary 3 way switch.... Or if I order the your kasa 3way kit can I use each for 2 separate 3 way primary switches?

[@RaymondCanDoIt]

Yes, you can buy 1 3way switch as a primary. Or you can buy a two pack for 1 3way circuit on both ends. Or you can buy a two pack for 2 separate primary switches.

[@DougCube]

You actually don't need to make a hook or remove any screws from the new switch. You can leave the wire straight and insert them under the plate then screw to clamp it down.

[@RaymondCanDoIt]

Yes, I just think it's more secure.

[@---GOD---]

Not that it really makes much of a difference in this situation, but a hook around the screw will be far more secure than a straight wire pressed between a plate.

[@MannyTheDriver]

The real question is... If I want to control lights from three locations, can I get a smart 4-way and two regular 3-ways?

[@RaymondCanDoIt]

You could probably do that, but I'm not exactly sure. You would probably need 1 smart 4 way and 2 regular 4 ways

[@MannyTheDriver]

@@RaymondCanDoIt After pulling all the beautiful hairs out of my head, I found out that in order to do this (at least with a Leviton system, 2nd gen, no hub), you would need 2x smart 3-ways and a regular or “slave” compatible 4 way. Hope this helps the next guy!

[@RaymondCanDoIt]

Thanks for the update, Manny!

[@kevs1768]

I just installed the same smart switch but whenever I turn off the light using the dumb switch, it actually disconnects my smart switch to the wifi. Is that a normal behavior or did I install the smart switch on the secondary switch instead of the main?

[@RaymondCanDoIt]

It's possible when you turn off the dumb switch, there is no power to the smart switch. Try switching the switches. (No pun intended)

[@brandonalvarado1309]

Is the same thing applied to a four way switch

[@RaymondCanDoIt]

Sorry, I'm not sure since I have never installed a 4way

[@jsully4074]

Someone pleaseee help me ive tried for HOURS to get my kasa 3 way smart stitches to work but its not. Im losing my MIND!!! Ive tried just about everything...either im a damn fool or my house wiring is wonky..im betting on me being the fool. 😭😭😭

[@RaymondCanDoIt]

Do you have a red, white, black and ground wire?

[@jsully4074]

@@RaymondCanDoIt yes I did. But I think i just don't have the neutral wires in every junction light switch box. Because I got 1 - Copper ground wire, 1 Black Line wire, 1 White load wire (power to the light from switch) and 1 Red traveler wire (to the other 3 way switch). No extra wires in the box. So no neutral wire to go back to the breaker. So I'm guessing I just don't have what is needed to make the switches work right.

[@RaymondCanDoIt]

Correct. You do need a white (neutral) wire.

[@franciet99]

Very clear instructions! Thank you!

[@RaymondCanDoIt]

Thanks for the comment. Glad the video was helpful!

[@LA-rl1lu]

Does this concept still hold true if the smart 3way switch is a dimmer switch, the dumb 3way switch is not a dimmer, and the light(s) are dimmable?

[@RaymondCanDoIt]

I would think that should also work, but I don't know

[@stevezb]

Can you link to Kasa switches in way so two different lights will go on when ether switch is pressed?

[@RaymondCanDoIt]

You can use the kasa, Google or alexa app to do something like that.

[@rachelwatsky683]

I've tried to set this up a few times. It doesn't blink orange and green, only green. What am I doing wrong?

[@RaymondCanDoIt]

Did you hit try to hit the reset button?

[@robertdebose8390]

You need to invest in tools to make your job smarter, not harder...ijs

[@RaymondCanDoIt]

Thanks for the tip. Any suggestions on tools I should get?

[@jpcreativeimagery]

there are smart switches that do not require a common, you won't be able to use tp-link kasa without running one but there are other options FYI

[@RaymondCanDoIt]

I didn't know that. Thanks for the comment!

[@nathanmullins8093]

Make sure you don't Nick The wire when not using wire strippers. Electricity flows on the outside of the copper and will Arc over a nick. Every ark displaces metal...it will eventually fail.

[@RaymondCanDoIt]

Thanks! I did not know that.

[@KXBAYASHI]

you're the man, raymond! thanks a lot :)

[@RaymondCanDoIt]

Thanks! Glad I could help!

[@DougCube]

@19:19 On that switch, it would be called the "load wire" not the "line wire."

[@RaymondCanDoIt]

Thanks for the correction.

[@pavan-yanman]

This worked for me. Thank you. Saves 1 smart switch.

[@RaymondCanDoIt]

Great to hear!

[@aliabidsyed8138]

I have TP link 3 way switch which comes with 2 switches. If I use one for the main switch, can I use the other as a single pole switch anywhere else? Thanks for your help! You video really helped me

[@RaymondCanDoIt]

Yes, you can. The switches in the two pack are the same and independent of each other.

[@aliabidsyed8138]

The other switch has two traveler screws and a ground wire. There is no neutral wire. Wondering how to co nect it for single pole switch.

[@RaymondCanDoIt]

Sorry, I read your original comment wrong. You cannot use the other switch as a single pole. It can only be used as a 3 way switch.

[@---GOD---]

You can use the second 3-way switch as a single pole switch. You would hook one part to the line/load terminal and another to one of the traveller terminals. That should do the trick. The way a 3-way switch works is it flips the line connection between the traveller terminals. However, you will still require a neutral wire for power. None of the Kasa smart switches will work without a neutral wire. It's absolutely necessary.

[@jackscrafts9202]

It only has to be smart on one end. That is so good to know. Thanks. Therefore on the Dumb end there may not even be a Neutral wire.

[@RaymondCanDoIt]

The whole house would probably be wired with a neutral anyway.

[@jackscrafts9202]

@@RaymondCanDoIt Not houses built before 1985 in the US

[@RaymondCanDoIt]

Yea, for houses before 1985 there won't be. But then you won't be able to do smart switches without a neutral wire. Maybe for a 3way but definitely not for a 2way.

[@darrinsmith2845]

So can you use a standard smart HP200 tp lnk switch for a satellite dummy switch then

[@RaymondCanDoIt]

I don't think you can. It would have to be a 3way regular or 3way smart switch

[@yhawk64]

Thanks for the video. Is this statement true: to know which is the primary switch, use the voltage switch. If the voltage switch always detects power whether the switch is ON or OFF, then it is the primary switch. The other non-primary switch only detects power when it is on.

[@RaymondCanDoIt]

Thanks for your comment. That's correct. There has to be a wire that is always hot regardless if the switch is off to bring the power into the circuit. That's the primary switch. Be careful when working with hot circuits.

[@ChristopherPayne-i7d]

Thanks!

[@RaymondCanDoIt]

Appreciate the super thanks. That's very kind of you!

[@stevezb]

I do not see any stamps of approval for use in US

[@RaymondCanDoIt]

Sorry, but not sure what you mean. I'm in the US and use it.

[@raminZak]

Clear, useful, and to the point!

[@RaymondCanDoIt]

Glad it was helpful!

[@esqsims2083]

Good stuff

[@RaymondCanDoIt]

Thanks for the feedback!

[@USA-CANADA1480]

what we need in this video was the actual demonstration that it works

[@RaymondCanDoIt]

Thanks, I'll remember that for future videos.

[@backthatthingupyoyoy]

NOT a good video. Details are sorely lacking. Please remove.

[@RaymondCanDoIt]

Sorry you feel that way. Hopefully, there was some else's video that was more helpful.

[@RaymondCanDoIt]

Sorry you thought the video was not helpful.

[@backthatthingupyoyoy]

My wife was using my account looking for something that nobody covers on these videos. She was attempting to take the switch plate cover off and was afraid she would break the small tabs. When I arrived home, I showed her how to w/o breaking. BTW, these wall Switches do NOT work for sh*t. I purchased 3 of them. The first out of the box would not communicate with the phone app; nor would it manually reset. The only thing it will do is turn on/off manually. Not worth the price or the effort. Thanks.

[@DougCube]

@12:05 It's pronounced "LeviTON" not "LeviTRON."

[@RaymondCanDoIt]

Lol, thanks for the correction.

[@chinaworm.ccpslave]

26' to do a job of 10'.

[@RaymondCanDoIt]

This video will hopefully be cheaper for you.