Does your RC Car Require Oil or Lubrication for some of its Parts / Components?

[@JeremiahLutherPritchett]

Thanks for making this one man. Just wanted you to know we appreciate you!

[@RCexplained]

I appreciate that! Thanks for the comment.

[@gonzodetroitify]

Do you grease your ring and pinion gears within the front and rear diff housing on rc’s full stop

[@robm.6825]

I use Teflon dry spray lube in certain areas. It seems to help and doesn’t attract dust.

[@-Astro--]

Yep it's great and safe for plastics

[@Cuplex1]

You forgot to mention rust, thats the main reason I use teflon based thin oil to lubricate some areas prone to rusting. I also use a thicker and a bit sticky chain oil on the center diff gear and the motor pinion gear. The motor gear is made of hardened steel which can rust, while the center diff is made of a heavy and really hard plastic. Probably nylon. But my point was that its a noticeable degree of less friction when those two gears are lubricated. Also, less noise. I have a question, what type of grease do you use inside the differential housings? Or do you use a thicker oil?

[@dellkenneth]

Is PTFE dry lube an idea for suspension components and ball joints?

[@RCexplained]

Hi dellkenneth, I don't have any experience with these types of Dry Lubes. They are designed to resist dirt and still reduce friction. This sounds pretty good.

[@edwinnegron7761]

I have at times sprayed with WD-40 on the plastic parts let it sit and then wipe it down. I also rarely place any other lubricant anywhere....

[@TEBLify]

Tamiya. Most kit builders are bound to have had one at some point, and they bind quite a bit when not lubricated properly. Maybe they had one at some point?

[@gschaaf713]

Can you do one on greasing differentials and gearboxes/transfer case. Oh and do one on upgrading parts and what materials are best suited for various parts.

[@RCexplained]

Those may be possible to do. I'll take a look.

[@CodySmiley]

These tips are only suitable for cars that are driven indoors or in dry weather. I cannot imagine washing my Erevo with a water hose and not using the silicon lube after that. Even bearings will rust in days without changing the grease.

[@johnmachter40]

Do you still See it that way?

[@broderp]

Not to be mean, but if you're not taking it apart to show it, it may as well be a list on the screen. Those who know, would already know and not need the video.

[@EdsonHenry]

I could swear that my nitro 4-tec had instructions to drop a bit of wd-40 in the engine as a after run method for storing your vehicle. If that wasn't the case I wouldn't be doing it. Furthermore, I was told it's not necessary if you're running the car consistently, but only if you plan to put it away for awhile; at the very lease you don't want the engine to seize up. But like I said, I remember seeing traxxas 4-tec videos from traxxas tutorials recommending to do this after run maintenance. Not so much for the body parts. Maybe it's worth looking into. Great topic though. Love the content my friend. Keep it up.

[@RCexplained]

This was more specific to brushless motors and cars. A nitro engine is a different animal, im glad people like you still have them. You are correct after run oil is what you want to use otherwise the castor will thicken up making engine rotation difficult. I had a traxxas nitro engine that recommended wd40 as after run oil. There was a general concensus on the forums to use a proper after run oil and not a cleaning agent like wd40. Most of the wd40 will evaporate but after run oil will leave a nice thick film on each internal component. Simply place a few drops in the carb and spin the motor for a few blips of the pull starter or 2 seconds on an electric starter.

[@patricklavoie8719]

Very interesting... Can you please make a run down video on how you clean your cars after use?

[@RCexplained]

Thanks Patrick for your comment! It may be very boring as all I do is use a cloth to wipe dirt away.

[@EddieVichta]

Thanks a lot for all Your videos. Helpful! I could agree with 'no oiling' strategy. Lot of years ago I was racing touring RC cars. Now I am kind of recreational driver (and pilot too, lol). I have few cars, planes and helis. Living in Ireland, so mostly windy conditions. When no wind and rain I am flying. When no fly conditions I am driving. Mostly in wet condition. Back to oiling - no oiling. What trick would You recomend against rust? I am caring my cars really well, but whatever I do metal parts gets slightly rusty. Cleaning, drying after every run - no chance to prevent it. Any adwise, please?

[@RCexplained]

Glad the videos are helpful! With rusty components I'm usually just oiling them and taking the rust off with a cloth. WD40 acts as a good cleaner and if you catch it early enough the rust (surface rust) will just wipe away quite easily. Fortunately many of my cars use lot of plastic and aluminum minimizing the amount of rust. I see more rust on my float plane in some scary areas.

[@wheelsinmotioninformation8306]

can you please replace the add picture for this link and remove the wd-40 can and replace with legit rc oil bottle?? wd-40 is not a long enough lasting lube. I use it to clean after wet play or to soften the tires. this is a huge misconception in the bicycle world and leads to more worn, gunked up and broken parts.

[@valchazzz6227]

And what is your routine after driving in wet conditions? How you avoid rust?

[@RCexplained]

Wet or not, after every outing I've typically wiped it down with a cloth and then hit it with compressed air.

[@kusalavishkajayasooriya]

Please tell me what is the oil put in to cog wheel

[@RCexplained]

Which RC Car is this for?

[@michael_house]

Very interesting view on the topic. Thanks. Tamiya has a lot of parts where they recommend to lubricate for some reason.

[@RCexplained]

Thanks for watching!

[@Eden_M]

Our RC God, have a good one Ryan 😉

[@RCexplained]

Thanks Eden, you too!

[@NoTekRc]

What about the front and rear differential? I constantly see videos of people filling the entire bulkhead diff housing with grease?? I never bothered to do anything like that on my 1/8 scale cars and had no issues yet.

[@RCexplained]

Fluid is placed in to the differentials for tuning purposes not necessarily for lubrication. Here is a video on that: kzbin.info/www/bejne/pqqvqpiPeaZmf8k

[@NoTekRc]

@@RCexplained i was talking about one the ring and pinion gear outside of the differential....?

[@beomon3449]

@@RCexplained I have the same question, would be wonderful if you could help reply! thanks!!

[@RCexplained]

No I do not use lubrication there.

[@colin1992]

Thanks for the helpful info ryan, appreciate it

[@RCexplained]

Hey Ryan, appreciate the comment!

[@LayneSteighlee]

When I am done, I just spray PB silicone grease all over the entire car, focusing mostly on the suspension and then let it sit in for about 15-20 seconds and blow the excess off with air.....haven't had any issues yet and it is certainly better than WD40.

[@RCexplained]

Thank you for commenting Donny! Sounds like you have a good after run method!

[@Dankboi420]

WD40 dry lube works pretty good. It doesn't attract dust, and stops the arms from squeaking

[@martinsnijder66]

Thanks for your explanation. It is helpfull 👍🏻

[@RCexplained]

Hey Martin, thanks for the comment, glad the video is helpful!

[@TheBirells]

My brother almost kill me when I said I put wd40 in the gears... LMAO

[@RCexplained]

Haha, I'm sure you are not the only one by a long shot.

[@x1area51ii7]

Can you put slight wd40 on pinion or spur? Lol he didnt answer on vid

[@nolen0572]

@@x1area51ii7 i would ask your local hobby shop, thats what i am going to do, i know im a lityle late tgought lol.

[@Soilhalo77]

I’ve taken lots of info and used it from your vids and it’s worked very well but I have to disagree about lubricant as u should put a dry lubricant like WD DRY PTFE as it’s specifically designed for bike chains to repel dust and water and doesn’t eat bearing grease It might not say anything in manuals but how many manuals actually explain the cleaning process?!?! Go on forums or even brand specific vids and u can find them telling you what to do if there’s dust mud water etc. Example, in your rd car you drive to work every day there’s no section that tells you how to wash it and same can be said for electric car companies like Tesla They use batteries bearings a form of Esc (ECU) but all these brands expect you to put your car through a jet wash or car wash. Take your car for a service though and what do they do? They lubricate the moving parts. Another thing that can be said about them not telling you to lubricate your car is they want parts to wear out as I’m most likely correct in saying possibly say at least 25%of there revenue is in parts sales after the fact. A lot of wear is caused by driving style too Anyway that’s my thoughts on it and many other peoples (maybe not the full size car analogy) too. But keep making your awesome vids they’ve helped me loads since my local hobby shop closed so I had to learn everything from people like your self rather than driving 4 hours to maybe fix a 2 second problem 👍

[@johnmachter40]

So you don't think the grease or oil will catch dust and make an abrasive paste out of it that will grind away the parts?

[@Soilhalo77]

@@johnmachter40 read more of the more recent comments, 1 of the first that comes up is using a dry lubricant over a wet one. Dry lubricants are better in the entire drive train of RCS in the parts exposed to the elements. It’s how you wash and clean your RC after use that will keep your car going. Personally I wet the car down and then apply MucOff, a motorcycle cleaner, give it all a clean with a soft brush (more aggressive where needed) and then rinse. Dry it best u can but even when it’s still wet spray in the dry PTFE Lubricant as it pushes out the water. The only time u want to be using grease or oil is in your diffs during routine maintenance of your car And use whatever weight is your preference. As for the diff grease I use marine grade grease and I also stick a bit of this on the shock ends when I push the shock shaft (and O ring) the oring. You shouldn’t be getting any grinding paste build up, this would only occur if you’re diffs or your pinion/ spur aren’t correctly meshed. Hopefully this answers your question!

[@johnmachter40]

​@@Soilhalo77​thanks. how often do you maintenance your car and what are you doing in an maintenance? im fairly new to rc cars :)

[@Soilhalo77]

@@johnmachter40 normally the basics every time but the diffs until something breaks or wears out. But to be honest it’s usually until I decide I’d like to try something new. . I’d say on average I’d say running it in the the street with my £2500 Kraton 6s exb every 30 times but keep a eye on things like bearings but running it hard with big jumps I check everything closely every time but if it looks ok and no breaks then say 10 x and change all fluids. My 110mph typhon rally car needs changed every x10 just simply because of how I designed it to be ran and that’s with a full battery pack smoking the tyres😁😎 Double and triple check all plastics too , don’t use metal shock rod ends for jumping, there designed for flex, use the at your own peril same goes for rest of car/cars watch/study multiple vids and come to happy medium. Follow advice of well known bashers etc and speed runners Best advice I can give

[@-Astro--]

11:10 to get past the USA waffle 👍🤣