Don't Break a Sweat! Remove Seized Wheel Bearing Quick And Easy (SKIP POWER STEERING PUMP STEP)

Here is a video of how I removed the front wheel bearing in my 2001 Silverado.
Buy 1/4-20 Coupling Nuts Here: amzn.to/3QUnzK9
Buy 5/16-18 Coupling Nuts Here: amzn.to/49WU7f0
Buy 3/8-16 Coupling Nuts Here: amzn.to/40X3wiG
Buy 1/2-13 Coupling Nuts Here: amzn.to/3N3Kl17
Buy the short ones, and don't forget to buy the bolts with the same thread pitch, for this 2001 Silverado I end up using the 1/2-13 ones but you might need the smaller ones as well, please let me know which ones you end up using for which car. Thanks
IGNORE THE POWER STEERING PUMP STEP is NOT necessary and might damage other steering components if too much force is used, Using only the THREAD CONNECTORS/COUPLING NUTS is enough to brake it loose.
I tried trimming out that part of the video but KZbin won't let me because apparently the video has too many views WTF!!
Thanks for watching

[@IGATECK]

IGNORE THE POWER STEERING PUMP STEP is NOT necessary and might damage other steering components if too much force is used, Using only the THREAD CONNECTORS is enough to brake it loose. I tried trimming out that part of the video but KZbin won't let me because apparently the video has too many views WTF!!

[@daddyrabbit835]

That power steering method has always freaked me out. It can't be good for the vehicle.

[@OmegaPrime76]

Thank you, I am buying those tomorrow!!!!

[@dannyknapp515]

I tried this method but it started to only pull the bearing apart . Since the axle shaft has some play back and forth can I leave the axle nut on and do this ?

[@diyprojectsandhobbies9861]

nice

[@IronChefBklyn]

After THREE DAYS AND NIGHTS of spraying, pulling, banging etc trying to find a solution to my '03 Tahoe 4wd drive front right hub (the most stubborn hub I've ever run across!)......THIS TRICK with two 1/2" x 1.5" hex bolts and threaded rod couplings finally created enough separation space to begin to wiggle it free ( after 3 hours of fighting with it!) Thank you so much, God bless!

[@JimLambier]

I am so glad that you shared your idea of using the bolts and threaded connector!!! I had tried every suggestion that I could find to remove my hub. I used a 5 lb hammer, then a 10 lb hammer with no luck. I soaked it several times with PB Blaster, I tried an air hammer, I tried heating the steering knuckle with a torch to expand it, I rented a slide hammer and used the towel trick, I tried using the steering pump trick, but only ended up destroying the socket extension and tie-rod end. I was just about to give up when I saw your suggestion. I thought that there was no way a few dollars worth of hardware could do what expensive tools couldn't. I was wrong. Not only did it work well, it was cheap, quick and quiet! I did need to modify your process to get it to work on my 2010 Explorer. I started by putting the brake rotor on backwards and then putting the lug nuts back on about 4 turns each. Then I jammed 3 of your bolt/connectors between the rotor and the steering knuckle. I tried to spread them out evenly, but I had to find flat spots on the knuckle where the connectors could sit. By screwing the bolt in or out, I was able to make them able to be jammed into the spots fairly easily. Once all three were in, I proceeded to start tightening the lug nuts about 1/4 turn each. I did the usual pattern for tightening lug nuts and just kept repeating the process of making 1/4 turns. This kept the rotor parallel to hub and spread the forces evenly. The whole tightening process took less than 10 minutes and required so little force that I kept thinking that something must be wrong. Eventually, I reached a point where the nuts were bottoming out on the wheel studs. At this point, the hub had been pulled out about 1/2". I removed the nuts, rotor and your bolt/extensions. A couple of light taps with a hammer and the bearing fell out. Thanks again!

[@IGATECK]

Jim Lambier I am really glad to read your comment and yeah fully understand how frustrating rusted hubs can be, I changed many the hard way and one day I finally grabbed a 5 gallon bucket and sat in front of the hub just thinking, I knew there was an easier way and then it just click, I'm really glad I was able to help and thanks for sharing your experience.

[@crand20033]

Did you try a Wheel or Geer puller?

[@richarddeleau3400]

IGATECK, I am at wits end. I was in the same place as Jim Lambier. You, my friend, are a fricken GENIUS!

[@danno8852]

Jim Lambier excellent idea with brake rotor

[@brianhicking8882]

I have same truck...just did your way with reverse rotors. ...xame off like butter.....Fan Facking Tastic...👍👍👍

[@brandoncart7901]

I came back to say THANK YOU. I know my way around a vehicle but 2 days of using a slide hammer and the wheel bearing hadn't moved I found your video. Using the power steering didn't work for me but I adapted this at the hardware store and the owner thought u was stupid, but an hour later and I had pressed the wheel bearing out.. I used a m12 about 3/4 long bolt and double nut it, it took some doing but I used washers behind the bolt as spacers and kept adjusting, it worked

[@IGATECK]

I'm glad it worked, Thanks

[@brianhicking8882]

Igatek...dude you saved me a few hundred bucks....Cost me 7 bucks in bits and came off like butter....Cheers from Canada

[@ask43242flight]

can you give me part number? i cannot find it.

[@KenMorgan221]

THANK YOU! I was banging on my Town and Country wheel bearing for hours with no movement. Once I got the right size that would fit my vehicle (had to get down to 5/8") it came off in minutes. So amazing simple.

[@IGATECK]

Ken Morgan Nice to hear that and you're welcome, thanks for watching

[@jamesfederer5592]

This is the best bearing hub removal DIY on KZbin. I just did my Camry today! Due to space limitation, I could only set up two thread connectors. To add stability, i added a 3/8 6 inch long bolt with a nut through the hole of the hub. I can’t imagine what I will do if not for your video. Thank you so much.

[@stevenm3141]

This is the best idea I've seen yet.

[@IGATECK]

Thanks, glad to help

[@geraouttahermaeens1075]

This guy idea has saved so much time and money for people. Amazing trick works so well even on the most siezed hub

[@IGATECK]

Thanks I'm glad to help

[@KgTV33]

Man that worked just like you showed! Im doing this every time i replace wheel bearing and hub!! **NEVER ONCE HIT HUB WITH A HAMMER**

[@IGATECK]

Thanks I'm glad it worked

[@michael47lamb]

I did the same sort of job using two half inch threaded bolts and a couple washers and nuts: Knock out a few lug studs and put a bolt in the holes. Then washer and nut on the back side of the lug plate and start turning the nut. Hold the bolt still with a second wrench. The hub slides out real easy. Mine was out in about 10 minutes. NO SWEAT for sure! Forget hammering and chisels forever too! I do like your rod coupling idea in this video too, it just looks more awkward to turn the nuts. I already had the bolts and nuts in my junk pile anyway.

[@IGATECK]

Nice

[@jjc355]

I'm in the middle of removing the wheel hub with no luck. I came across your video and will give the bolt connectors a try. Thanks for sharing.

[@jacobmayoral7614]

This just saved me such a headache. I was sitting there pounding with a mini sledge and nothing. Two goes at it with this and she's off! Thank you so much!

[@IGATECK]

jabob mayroal I'm glad I was able to help and You are welcome

[@paulbaker5085]

I did the same thing with the large hammer Got a crack and used some blaster and a screwdriver . Never again. Best homemade tool ever .

[@BGinsz1709]

This idea is absolutely incredible. You should get a patent. It kind of reminds me of how a caliper compressor works.

[@IGATECK]

Thanks you very much, I actually looked into it but holy crap it is such a pain to get a patent, expensive and time consuming and at the end it's not guaranteed you'll get it

[@rookiegunner]

Thank you! My truck and a pair of new hubs have been sitting in my garage for over a year because I couldn't get the hubs off despite all the other "tips" on KZbin I've tried. I'll have them off this weekend using your technique. Thanks!!

[@IGATECK]

RookieGunner nice to hear that I'm glad I was able to help and you're welcome

[@keeperoftheflame7588]

Worked flawlessly on a scion hub that would not hammer out at all. I used 1 1/2 inch bolts with a nut on top of a spacer (oversized nut) and a washer at the bottom to distribute the load. So much better than hammering!

[@IGATECK]

I'm so glad to hear that, it's a pleasure to help

[@99sflores]

Crazy how the simplest things can make something hard so eazy, never fails to amaze me, thank you for the tip!

[@IGATECK]

Sam Flores yeah it's amazing, the funny part is that I had those thread connectors sitting in my garage for years lol

[@nikoniko4481]

we need more smart people like this one

[@johnycooke1358]

What a great and incredible idea. An inexpensive solution to big problems.

[@IGATECK]

Thank You

[@Ratlins9]

Thank you for sharing this great idea, you saved me from spending money on a slide hammer.

[@IGATECK]

Glad to help

[@bruceg1845]

better than the hub buster! btw - I appreciate the intense light and steady camera

[@riceburner4747]

That is ingenuous! I've see ln guys using steering puttn pressure, u will ruin. I'm a senior & I learn something everyday! Thank u!

[@IGATECK]

Thank you very much, it means a lot from a Senior

[@MrHeHim]

Awesome! seriously, everything i see involved shocking the suspension to the point it had me thinking there had to be damage done lol. Same reason i HATE hitting the rotor with a hammer to get it off is because i know im smashing the bearings and cutting there life short.

[@IGATECK]

Exactly I always felt bad using a hammer as well, I can feel the bearings getting micro flat spots haha

[@1111comment]

fking Genius. The coupling & bolt from home depot (Isle 17 & 18) did the trick for a malibu 2012. Also used a mix of 50% transmission fluid & 50% mineral spirits (didnt have acetone) to loosen. Another video showed it works 3x better than stuff like liquid wrench.

[@IGATECK]

I'm glad it worked I will give that mix a try thanks, pb blaster doesn't always work

[@jcsaves9725]

Brilliant! I'm sure that's going to help if need be! Thank you! God bless!!!

[@IGATECK]

Thanks

[@Cellinator]

YOU SAVED THE DAY!!! Tons of PB Blaster and hand-bruising from the slide hammer did nothing, and then this stupid trick of yours made things happen like instantly...

[@geraouttahermaeens1075]

The stupid trick was using the slide hammer, thread connectors was smart trick

[@sevenscents1109]

I tried all the tricks but I'm going to try this one now. I bet it works....thanks man

[@IGATECK]

Did it work?

[@pennywisetheclown9090]

Great tip, has never worked for me personally. 6 pound sledge hammer works. The hub buster is easier as a first option

[@dans4270]

Good idea. They have a hub buster tool now that will know it off in one or two blows with a sledgehammer. Looks easy to make if you have the material and welder. I'm going to try a difernt way. If it works I'm putting it on youtube.

[@IGATECK]

Yeah I saw the device but I didn't try that cause it puts lots of strain in the other suspension/steering components

[@justinadair5154]

Thanks for the idea, just used the bolt technique and it worked like a charm.

[@carlosvpallares1407]

Best video ever...thnks for sharing your knoledge with us.

[@IGATECK]

Thank you and you're welcome

[@OhiosOwnLS]

I was stuck shit outta luck with extremely rusted and seized hub and after trying numerous other tools this one worked. I got the bolts and long nuts from menards. I will add you will still need a new steel punch and 4lb mini sledge to help. When you are using this method unscrewing the bolt and have a good pressure between hub and spindle, use the sledge and punch in the crevice where they meet. You may need to bend the brake dust sheild a bit with hammer to get a good and straight position for the bolt thing. Be paitent and keep pounding on the punch it will start to separate.

[@IGATECK]

Chrome4Fifth glad to hear it worked, thanks

[@PAChadClancy]

If you punch a stud out, you have a hole to insert a threaded bolt, just smaller than the lug diameter. Put a nut on the back side, hold it with a wrench and drive the bolt thru to press it off. Rotate and repeat.

[@djpapachris]

I have used this process before............worked great...

[@mytho7114]

I am working on my chevy Colorado's front hub, try 2-3 different ways and get a 1mm gap. I am so glad to see your video today, I will try your idea tomorrow. Big hope. Thank you so much.

[@IGATECK]

Daniel Do you're welcome and I hope it works, let me know

[@mytho7114]

I really want to try your method extract the bolts but my truck is to narrow about 1 inch gap between Rotor and Axle metal fame. So I used your idea that I understand where to put force to separate that bad boy. I used a long metal bar that one used to remove nails put between the gap then pull and push instead of hammers to the rotor as before. it come out great. I am so glad it take less than 5 minutes. Thanks again.

[@IGATECK]

I'm glad you got it out and that I was able to help, you can buy shorter connectors or you can use a regular nut with two bolts or even one, another way is to remove 2 or 3 studs from the old hub and put a bolt with a nut in the inside part and push against the knuckle

[@xdevox]

Trying this today after work and hoping for the best. I have tried beating it off with no progress. Wish me luck

[@IGATECK]

Let me know if it worked

[@xdevox]

IGATECK it did start to break it free but eventually the bolts started to bend from tightening. After using a torch, heating it up, and beating some more I was able to get it completely off. The bolt trick did help get it started tho. Thank you.

[@jameskeeler6321]

I am glad I work on cars in California, so don't have to work on old rusty pieces of crap. Thumbs up to the mechanics that do.

[@IGATECK]

Yeah I know what you mean, I was in Mexico some time back and end up fixing my brother's car and it was so easy, up here half of the bolts will snap haha

[@lindaarnold715]

my 2014 ford flex rear wheels are a howling, so glad I watched this vid, I wasn't looking forward to crawling under the vehicle and beating on the hub for a few hrs, thanks, btw this is George, Linda's shade tree mechanic husband

[@schlagboy]

Thank you friend. This was the only method that worked for me.

[@skip7243]

Last one I replaced, I beat on it so hard I had to get the front end realigned. Good tip.

[@edquintanilla5935]

this method went smooth to remove the wheel hub....thanks for sharing....

[@IGATECK]

You're welcome and thanks for watching

[@angelramirez7747]

Wow! I learned something new. Thanks for sharing!!

[@tsidebottom101010]

Beautiful. Love the bolt and coupler idea. Will be using this technique for my truck

[@IGATECK]

Glad to help, let me know how that works

[@tsidebottom101010]

@@IGATECK I know it's been a hot minute since I commented. But I finally got around to replacing those bearings on my truck. And your technique here worked perfectly. I tried hammering if off first just to see and neither one would budge. But they came out very easily doing it this way. I'd buy you a beer if I could. Thanks again!

[@chrisl1894]

Thanks! Worked like a charm for my 2010 Sienna.

[@IGATECK]

Great to hear!

[@geesix___9887]

Drive round the block with no wheel hub nut on, it losens pretty well.

[@chuckhall5347]

More finesse, less sledge hammer, I like it.

[@kellyconstenius676]

Can also pound out a couple of the wheel studs. Insert bolt and nuts. Same thing.

[@IGATECK]

That's extra work though

[@tommiller4490]

Thank you for sharing, I was close to this solution but you helped me refine it!

[@IGATECK]

Glad to help

[@mr.nobody4900]

Wow, Seein' is believing...Amazing without a doubt. A + for such super neat trick.

[@JackForever9009]

That's I need way..Finally.. I found it.. Thanks

[@IGATECK]

Glad to help

[@rosebowl33]

Best thing I’ve ever seen! Took me literally 2 minutes to get the old one out

[@ClodiusP]

Now that was slick. I may have to buy some of these.

[@IGATECK]

Ain't dumb if it works right 👍

[@robertjohnson4401]

A great idea if you are not relying on the backing plate only for support. The backing plate will bend if the bearing is very tight.

[@IGATECK]

I had one the broke a small piece of the plate but added 2 more bolts and it came off

[@monoshock57]

Those are called union nuts. Fine thread ones will work better, You will need to go to a local bolt and screw supplier to get them. Grade 8 is they have them.

[@IGATECK]

Yep fine thread will produce a lot more force

[@geraouttahermaeens1075]

The 80 people that dislike must be mechanics in need of work.

[@IGATECK]

LMAO

[@txryder79]

No, it's the ones that realize this is potentially damaging to the power steering system.

[@geraouttahermaeens1075]

TX Ryder. If you watch the whole video are read the title you will see you make no sense

[@txryder79]

@@geraouttahermaeens1075 Uhm....fck off?

[@andybutler6968]

I just spent a hour banging on the hub with a sledge..... I'm going to by some connectors before doing the next hub!!!!

[@IGATECK]

Andy Butler good luck 👍

[@jindelicato3]

Pretty slick, thanks for sharing this. I am about to go through this exercise with my '03 1500 which is dying of rust (assuming axle not seized onto bearing....). One question -- is the first step necessary? Seems to me that if those bolts will back out without problem, you should thank your lucky stars, back them out and move onto the second step. In other words, I don't see how the first step contributed to the end result?

[@IGATECK]

You're welcome and no the first step is not necessary I haven't got time to edit the video

[@stratsurvivor]

Thank you! You are a genius! 🙌

[@hessian144]

you are a genius! this may solve all my problems

[@KJZheng-or4ik]

excellent idea

[@paulbaker5085]

I could have used that fantastic idea yesterday .Glad I didnt buy a hub buster for $125 . Great Post Thanks

[@IGATECK]

You're welcome thanks for watching

[@UrbanmovingSystemz]

Incredible tip, worked perfectly

[@IGATECK]

Great to hear!

[@markh4767]

Yes sir I'm sure you have already heard But Many Thanks

[@IGATECK]

you're welcome

[@acboy1232001]

What I did is screw the axle but till flush the. Put the socket back on the nut then behind I put a 17-19mm combo wrench to put tension between the hub and axle the. Same time putting tension start hammering on the socket used a solid rubber mallet maybe after 10 strikes it popped out oh I did spray WD-40 where the spline and hub connect

[@marriama2549]

You are a very smart man. 👏 good job.

[@roramos5913]

Best idea I’ve seen ! Thanks

[@IGATECK]

Thanks and You're welcome!

[@SirGolfalot-]

Good idea. Amazing.

[@IGATECK]

Thanks, glad to help

[@LiuMoon13]

Definitely going to get some tomorrow

[@mike7044863]

You have someone holding wheel pressure and at same time use hammer n chisel on outside .....together they work

[@inhocsigno9151]

Good idea with the jacking bolts to press the hub out. I won't use the power steering system.

[@ggyy6747]

all I got to say is 👍 my Mexican brother....

[@IGATECK]

GG YY thanks bro

[@stovar1182]

LMAO La Raza

[@belowfray5251]

Outstanding

[@smokerslounge8880]

Youre a god damn genius

[@candeffect]

You are an atheism damn idiot.

[@IGATECK]

Thanks

[@evanwalters63]

Did not work for me. I can't try the power steering method cuz I have rack and pinion which bends some of the parts and there's no where to put the brace anyway, I don't have a torch so I can't use heat, I tried slide hammer, regular hammer, hammering bolts form back, hammering punch put through bolt holes, using jack under hub to try to break it free of corrosion, can't use bolt method cuz there isn't enough room to remove lugs out the back even if I cut them off on front which is why I decided to replace the hub because I broke two lug studs and can't remove them. Nothing is working so I'm going to have to replace the damn knuckle which it turns out is hard to find. No auto parts stores carry them. Unbelievable. I might try to hammer the hub out from behind after I remove the knuckle so I don't have to buy a new one.

[@IGATECK]

The steering method is not a good idea anyways, I tried deleting that from the video but youtube won't let me, You should try smaller thread connectors, the ones I used in the video were 1/2-13 but you can get 3/8", 5/16" or even 1/4", there is gotta be room for the 1/4" ones and even a single 1/4" bolt can generate thousands of pounds of force And I think removing the whole knuckle would be better than hammering to prevent Balljoint, tirod and strut damage If I had to hammer it I would just weld a chain to a sledgehammer and weld the other end to the hub give a relly good swing

[@akzoc]

Thank you.

[@lonniecrook1684]

Really smart idea!!

[@IGATECK]

Thank you

[@mikemalone7193]

Great idea

[@IGATECK]

Thanks

[@johnnyguitwithit2614]

I could of used this trick an hour ago.

[@juliosdiy3206]

Wow those bolts r awesome thnks.

[@chuckwebb7564]

Going to give it a try this week.

[@moonlander7233]

what happens when the spinning part w the lug nuts disconnects instead and exposes the bearing inside?

[@IGATECK]

If the bearing comes apart leaving the outer race in place that's a bad day, I don't know of an easy way to remove just the outer race yet, I would cut some notches with an angle grinder and use an inner puller or just cut it with a torch

[@moonlander7233]

@@IGATECK ok thanks

[@MitzvosGolem1]

Excellent work thanks

[@IGATECK]

Thanks

[@johnlynde2]

Seems like a simple tool, did you buy it - or did you make it, if so - where or how, and what type did you use ( grade 8???)

[@IGATECK]

they're just bolts and thread connectors, not grade 8

[@pauldeahl3980]

Go to Lowe’s or Home Depot or any hardware store and ask for a a bolt and bolt connector of the same thread diameter and pitch and the appropriate length for your application

[@comfortlivinghh]

your idea is the greatest but i can't find the threat connector anywhere. would it be called some other names other than threat connector?

[@IGATECK]

Thank you, they're also called "coupling nuts" or 'thread couplers"

[@IGATECK]

You should be able to find them at Home Depot or any hardware store

[@djjammindave]

at 1:39 please, help me understand. 1/2 " 13 X 1"3/4 what is 13 ? 1/2 is the width - 1'3/4 is the length. what is 13? Thread size? ok, I got it. Is the bolt. thank you.

[@IGATECK]

Yes sir is the thread size, 1/2-13 = 1/2 diameter and 13 threads per inch, the 1/2" fine thread is 1/2-20, 20 threads per inch

[@Dj1Kreationz]

How about a video on a seized axle in the hub ? Removing the hub wasnt a problem but the problem im having is the axle seized in the hub...used the J45859 tool to try and disengage the axle from the hub but its completed seized in there

[@IGATECK]

Sorry for the late reply, damn that J45859 looks pretty heavy duty, I would try to heat the axle with a torch and then spray it with cold water so it expands and them shrinks, and then use the tool, a good size hammer or an air hammer

[@sweetvuvuzela4634]

Simple no need for hammers no presses no heat no bearing pullers

[@pcmountaindog]

Well done. Why didn't I think of that.

[@IGATECK]

Smokey Walker thanks

[@madmanbobtaylor9531]

great idea I will try this next time . NL/Ca

[@Sonic-sh2vh]

Nice, thanks

[@IGATECK]

glad to help

[@stephaneaudette6665]

Thank you for the idee..

[@IGATECK]

You're welcome

[@uptown4cozzmo]

Nice work bro!!!

[@IGATECK]

Thanks

[@NeoCloud]

hubs on mine are too small to do that on the rear but great job man

[@RaimoLehtinen]

Good work👍👍👍👍

[@IGATECK]

Thanks

[@johnnelson3361]

Brilliant

[@IGATECK]

Thanks

[@daveprototype6079]

Great tip New subscriber Cheers Dave

[@IGATECK]

Thanks

[@joepinehill]

Great video, very clever

[@PntbalBob]

Thank you!!!!

[@IGATECK]

You're welcome

[@PntbalBob]

I did this last night. Mine required a few blows with the 3 lb hammer too. This helped. Had to be the tension it creates. Last guy needed an air chisel.

[@reynaldomalapad]

Nice

[@Mentalmikey69]

Awesome video. I owe you a couple beers :)

[@687805]

What to do if hub mounting bolts are badly rusted and rounded off, and the assembly is rusted in solid?

[@IGATECK]

#1Lazer I would drill the heads off or weld a socket if possible

[@687805]

IGATECK - Thanks for the response! I had considered cutting the heads off, but then realized if it didn't do the trick I'd be left with nothing. I think I'll start by welding new nuts on the heads, and if that fails I can cut them off then. Thanks so much for the insight and quick reply.

[@IGATECK]

You can just buy new bolts I'm sure, and as for the first step using the steering pump is actually not necessary I keep forgetting to update the video, and you're welcome and thanks for watching

[@687805]

IGATECK - Yes, I already sourced new bolts before considering anything drastic. I'll let you know what I end up doing as people like us value all new information for future projects. Thanks!

[@IGATECK]

That's right! I would appreciate the info, thanks and good luck