DON'T USE DRYWALL BUCKET MUD!! Use this instead...(Quick Setting Joint Compound / "Hot Mud")

[@TheHonestCarpenter]

Check Out the ULTIMATE CARPENTRY CHECKLIST!! *Get your free interactive ebook here* : www.thehonestcarpenter.com/the-ultimate-carpentry-checklist This *150-item Visual Glossary* covers every important topic in carpentry. Check off the tools you have, the concepts you understand. And if you don't know a topic, just click on it for an explanation. Every carpenter and DIYer needs this free guide!

[@stargateproductions]

My concern as a finisher is that hot mud doesn't sand well, for your average DYI person who is not experienced with it they may apply it too thick. All purpose can last up to 6 month or more after opening. Make sure you keep the bucket clean, and some water on top of the mud.

[@pchow1970]

Just use topping coat (blue bucket) as final and sanding will be much easier, if done properly, you shouldn't have to sand much

[@johnnytocino9313]

Haha. One od the brands for hot mud is " easy sand". Easy sand my arse! Watcb professionals. They put mud on super thin. Just enough to coat what they need. One otwo more time over th same areas is still better than putting mud on teo thick and having to sand for days.

[@shure46]

"All Purpose" doesn't sand well either , dries harder , but sticks the best for taping and best for final texturing (more glue and dries harder) ..... "Lightweight" sands best , but not a good choice for taping .... has less "glue" in it ..... Tape with all purpose , bed with lightweight , final skimcoat with all purpose , texture with all purpose for BEST results ..... but you CAN do anything with Lightweight EXCEPT TAPING ...... Don't Tape with it , you'll be sorry

[@TDZ43]

I have a bucket of dust control that is at least year old. I just added water little by little while mixing in between and it's fine not clumpy or anything. It was the first time I tried it(water), if it was still bad I wouldn't have used it (small repairs).

[@tripstarwellman1570]

So many experts in here 😂 I like hot 5 min for any repair in plaster or drywall, it's a setting compound, video never mentions setting vs. conventional vs. lightweight etc. Ready mix aka bucket mud is convenient and neater but mudding is messy stuff and you should have a drop cloth down anyway silly!! And buckets have a shelf life. Someone said 6 months. Ok. Use it 🤷‍♀️ I use a sponge to sand until final sanding before primer, at that point I use high grit sanding block/screen. Happy finishing. Thanks for a good vid

[@ThatKiltedGuyDIY]

I warn my channel viewers against using hot mud if they are not skilled at putting it on flat. Most novices want to put it on thick and sand it smooth and hot mud is very difficult to sand and you will usually damage the drywall around the hot mud trying to do so. Plus, most novices take way too long to apply hot mud and can end up with the mud setting up in their pan to the point where they have to chisel it out and possibly ruin tools. And yes, regular joint compound can go bad over time, but stored properly, with a little bit of water on top like the manufacturer recommends, it will be good for many months in a cooler garage or something. A lightweight joint compound is much more forgiving for novices. But with the proper instruction on how to apply it to where you don’t need to sand anything but the edges, it is a great product and that is what I teach on my channel. I recommend novices to use regular weight all purpose joint compound for taping, and it will work for other things although it does sand a little bit harder. And if taping a repair with mesh tape, you absolutely must use hot mud. But for most everything else, novices should stick to a lightweight joint compound.

[@csuss]

I really like the fibafuse tape and have used that with premixed Plus3 for some patching of larger holes- my results have been good. Is that a mistake? Perhaps it acts differently than standard mesh tape?

[@وردانالنادر]

Director, can I use 90 to apply some thickness? Is it solid? Can I mix colors with it or on top of it? I want a material close to Venetian plaster. What do you advise me? Thank you for everything you provide.

[@johnfabozzi3636]

I use fiber tape on all the seams and use good old-fashioned paper tape on all corners. All-purpose joint compound out of the bucket is what I prefer to use when bedding tape and mesh.The lightweight joint compound for 2nd and finish coat are perfectly fine and they dry pretty fast because they're thinner. Lightweight joint compound is easier to sand too.I use hot mud all the time but it's harder to sand. It also sucks to have to be mixing all the time. Here's a little trick I learned over the years if u over mix your mud it sets faster. One other tip is mix small amounts of hot mud and incorporate premixed mud and it will set up more quickly and you won't have to mix all the time. One other thing to remember hot mud does not set up in the amount of time it says on the bag. Refer to the USG website for the correct time it takes to fully dry. Thicker coats take longer to dry, weather also has an effect on drying times. Ceilings usually dry faster because heat rises. Hope these were helpful tips.

[@TommyJH54]

From a professional standpoint, I’ve done fairly sizable repairs completely in one day using hot mud. If this video is for a DYIer, I would recommend buying the smaller containers of all purpose pre-mix. They sell it in containers as small as 1.76 qt.for around $4.00. If a homeowner is tackling a drywall repair never having done it before, they certainly don’t need to be battling a time limit or improperly mixing the powder too. Mud isn’t that expensive. Keep it simple for the DIYer! Good video though.

[@A.S.P.R.]

I agree. For a DIY, bucket mud is the safest product to use. If you are going to fill anything deeper than 1/4" however, bucket mud (pre-mixed, joint compound....whatever you want to call it) is going to take forever to dry and will most likely shrink and crack. But yes, 'hot mud' or 'Easy Sand' or Dura-bond....whatever you want to call it, is a challenge for a DIY. But they can use 90 min pretty safely. If you can't get the stuff on in 90 min....well..........

[@andoniades]

Good, someone said it. Guess I didn't have to. But I understand why he made the vid. For content.

[@thelogician1934]

The ready mix is too soft, the plaster is easily scratched.

[@dwade6322]

Im a long time painter who occasionally has to do decent sized patch work and repairs on walls..Can you please give me the basic reason why quick setting mud isnt normally used to do entire houses when drywall guys are finishing the drywall ? I figured 20 minute mud would be worth the time as long as you had a partner mixing up batches for you as you go through the house...Less dru time to wait and as long as you apply it thin enough not much harder to sand than the slower drying mud right? I heard some guys use quick setting mud to finish new drywall...is that true? If not,why? I would appreciate any answers on this,thank you.

[@rayray8687]

@@dwade6322: There are multiple reasons why tapers do not use setting compounds to tape an entire house. Here are a few in no particular order. - Setting compounds have a maximum setup time of 90 minutes and once they begin to set it is almost instant. You then have to COMPLETELY clean any pail, tray or tool used before you can mix up another batch or the next batch will set even quicker. You can’t just add powder and mix up another batch. - Setting compounds also take a long time to dry even though they set quickly. - They are not nearly as smooth as regular mud and do not feather out well when sanded - They tend to spot through the paint job if they’re not top coated with regular mud - The taping crew will be in the house for several days so there is no need for quick setting compounds - Setting compounds are enormously expensive compared to regular mud They’re great for deep repairs and for a first coat on smaller jobs but they invariably have to be top coated with regular mud to get a nice job. They have a definite place in the construction industry but not for general drywall finishing, and frankly they are never promoted as such.

[@mae2759]

Inexperienced DIY guy here. Just patched 3 holes in my bathroom from ripping out towel and toilet paper bars. Used Plus 3 bucket mud (blue bucket at 0:08 in the video). I thinned it down with water in my pan so it was kind of runny. Results were fantastic! Went on easy and sanded great. Additionally, that bucket was used about a year and a half ago to patch some ceiling drywall from installing an attic ladder and it was still usable! No issues what so ever with the quality.

[@MAGAMAN]

You should really use the quick dry mud for patching holes, then use the green or blue bucket mud to get a clean finish. The plus 3 is finishing mud, and is extremely weak. It should never be put on thicker than a piece of paper.

[@LBizKid04]

​@@MAGAMAN yes, thank you for saying this!

[@Megahieron]

I've had this exact mud sitting for a couple of years with only occasional use. I can add a bit of water if needed. Buckets are okay.

[@douglasemery3986]

I've been using bucket of mudd since the 80's. Use what you need and then with a brush you clean inside of bucket with water and leave water on top until next use.

[@geodude6244]

Takes too long to dry unless you don't mind taking your time and don't want dust and the mess

[@harryl7946]

Just keep the mud in the bottom together. Sprinkle a little water and reseal it. I opened one from 3 months ago, left some on the sides and had to clean it out so it didn’t get into the ‘good’ mud. Applied heat and poof! Hot Mud! 🤣 Nah, just knifed it onto the area of need and waited 24 hours before sanding and finishing. That’s the only part I didn’t like about bucket mud - 24 hour wait between coats.

[@johnarizona3820]

Prob depends on the climate. Here in WA state they do go bad quickly. I tried bleach to fix and uhhh, NO. I rehydrate now with 70% Iso Alcohol.

[@randybobandy9828]

@@geodude6244 all purpose mud is sandable hot.mud sands like shit. They both have their place.

[@mikewidget7610]

level off whats left in bucket and pour a skimcoat of water on it. Will last for years!

[@donr3407]

You beat me to the good tip thanks bro.

[@jasnonya3005]

Absolutely correct

[@shaneb1619]

@@jasnonya3005 absolutely...this guy needs to stick to carpentry.

[@singerh74]

I opened my bucket (small one) after about 4-5 years in the garage, it had a film of water on top but smelled like a cow's ass🤮🤮🤮

[@donr3407]

@@singerh74 Ha, did it still work?

[@tlnn6598]

I’ve had a 5gal bucket in my garage for over a year and the content is STILL like new. Secret: Add a little dishwashing liquid when you first open it up. Give it a good stirring and you’re good to go.

[@bulldogsv2]

Turn the bucket upside down. It forms a nearly airtight seal. (Works on paint and glues too.)

[@peterkizer6163]

Yep, I turn all my paint cans over - after making sure the top is securely pounded down!

[@maxi-me]

@@peterkizer6163 you sound like a pro. Why is it that a can of primer opened the same day as the finish paint will mold in a few months whereas the finish paint doesn't?

[@AshiStarshade]

@@maxi-me Primer is just a less stable product. It's not designed to be as hardy as paint. It's like comparing pants and underwear.

[@maxi-me]

@@AshiStarshade thanx. Makes sense, what with it being considerably cheaper and all

[@AshiStarshade]

@@maxi-me I think some paints are even cheaper than good primers, but they are definitely different :) I had some primer on some wood that looked so good that I felt tempted to leave it that way, but the handyman said nope, and he was right. There are webpages that talk about the differences.

[@michaelhaeflinger3423]

Oh please!!!!! Throw a bit of plastic wrap on top when you’re done and it’ll stay good for a long time. Mine lasted over 6 years with no problem. It’s not rocket science.

[@mountaingirl2928]

Lol he has no clue. You win a prize lol Put some plastic sarandwrap on top the mud to the edge. And later just wipe out any dry residue . These guys on UTube just don't know.. And I'm a female drywall pro

[@steviem5279]

@@mountaingirl2928 My dad is a retired house painter and the premixed bucket of mud would last a long time. People forget that when you open the bucket there is a round plastic sheet right on top of it that instead of throwing away you can use to put back on top of the compound to keep it moisture in if not just get any old plastic bag or plastic drop cloth and use that. If he didn't cover it with plastic he would just pour some water on top and make sure the lid seals the bucket and all is good. He would also add water to it to thin it out for the final coats of the skim coat. The key is simple, just wipe clean the inside of the bucket with a sponge so that the bucket is clean as that is the part that dries up over time.

[@robertthomas5906]

Sometimes you get away with that. I did that on a bucket, lasted for a couple of years and was fine, then the next time I opened it which was about a year later it had lots of black fuzz all over the place. You're far better off mixing your own mud. Get the 15 or 20 minute, make small batches. It's great. I'm to the point where I mix almost exactly what I need for a job.

[@elmerdane]

@@robertthomas5906 oh you go get some 15 min hotmud eh?

[@elmerdane]

#1 its free anyway #2 water noob #3 call a pro

[@kevinconrad2250]

A lot of people that end up with moldy mud is because they take mud out of the bucket, use it to tape and then try to put it back in the bucket in stead of throwing it away. When you smear mud on walls or tape and then take it off it gets tiny fibers of paper in it. These pieces of paper are what serves as food for mold to grow.

[@ILruffian]

Bingo. Don't be cheap and throw worked compound back into the bucket.

[@azdeh1894]

@Marie Aussie did you add water to it? heck I wouldnt doubt high humidity trapped in a bucket would cause it.

[@joycealabama876]

@@azdeh1894 I did put unused mud back in bucket. GUILTY!

[@MAGAMAN]

@Joyce Marie Then you contaminated your mud some other way.

[@MAGAMAN]

@@azdeh1894 Drywall mud is already high humidity. Adding more water wont change that.

[@nickbrannon3251]

I recommend homeowners use premixed and finish with a sponge to reduce dust

[@WorldsOkayestSorcerer]

I’ve had a bucket that was opened sitting in the corner for two months. Still perfect shape. Worked in construction for years and we never once used anything other than the bucket mud. Don’t worry about working with the pre-mix. Just remember to add water and loosen it up for texturing with a brush or roller.

[@xinixxagnix201]

lol after 6 years it is still 100% allright (seal broken) ))

[@demotutt6369]

Hello sir can I ask u a cple question

[@ozzstars_cars]

Exactly @shawn conn

[@JimDean002]

If I'm putting it away for a while I'll throw a little water on top with a teaspoon or so of bleach in it to stop mold, and I've never had a bucket go bad.

[@ozzstars_cars]

@@JimDean002 what's the secret to storing sausage? 😁 Sorry I couldn't resist.

[@woohunter1]

Remodeler here, I usually use quick setting for the first coat, then bucket for second and third. Reason I do this is, the quick setting is a lot harder to sand if you use it on final coat.

[@A.S.P.R.]

Do you hand sand or use a drywall sander?

[@joshn3042]

We do 2 coats of hot mud where I work, then final coat with light weight. But same thing pretty much

[@VC-Toronto]

I prefer hot mud for the first pass and sometimes second pass as it tends to shrink a bit less than premix (IMHO) so less premix (which shrinks a bit more) is needed on the subsequent passes.

[@urdad9853]

I've been doing the same for years.....this way I can get my bed coat n one more coat in a day then next day is ready for last coat.....no prob

[@LUckybones25]

I agree. Never finish with hot mud.

[@CARPETMAN6666]

I remember when my first bucket molded up. After that I just started adding 1/2 capful of bleach when I opened it and started in good and it keeps it good for a few years.

[@thomash1284]

Drywall finisher 32 years....I use hot mud all the time but it neither sands well nor paint well. Typical patch for me is 20 minute, next coat 20 minute then relatively thick lite weight mud....your average homeowner should use 45 or 90 but ALWAYS final coat with all purpose or lite mud....my 2 cents

[@ward185]

Drywall finisher for 27 years I agree 100%. Plus the ready mix will keep fine for a few months if the lid is on and the sides are wiped down

[@stevenm.6886]

Yes, I’ve used 20min for yrs. but have learned to topcoat with plus3 as it accepts paint with no issues

[@NewBluesBros]

A buddy showed me this stuff 10 plus years ago and its great to be able to get jobs done faster because the joint compound couldn't dry fast enough. Depending on how much I need to do I will use 20 or 45 and then use the blue lid on my final coat.

[@barryulrich2170]

Homeowners and hot mud do not mix. Use a fan to speed drying time of premix mud and save yourself a lot of grief. Hot mud does not sand flat, you will sand through the gyroc around the patch and still have a lump on the wall.

[@llBanell]

Steven M. professional painter and drywaller here, who's dealt with various compounds and muds. ALWAYS prime with wallcolor before doing 2 coats of paint. you'll never have an issue.

[@juzoli]

“If you get delayed between coats” -> Yeah, if I get delayed between coats by months or years, I will buy a new bucket. Both the scenario and the expectations are very unrealistic. In real life, I wait about a day between coats, and since it is good for weeks after opening, it is perfectly okay, And they have all the sizes, so I need to buy the small one, so the rest don’t go bad on me. By the way, I just reopened one which was like 1 year old, and it was still not bad. I had to mix it thoroughly though, and it had a slightly different color after drying, so I wouldn’t use it at prime location, but the point is that it goes for a long time.

[@MAGAMAN]

I have waited months between using mud from the bucket and never had a problem. Keep the lid on lightly while you are working, don't contaminate the bucket with mud you have already used, and seal it up tightly when done. It will last a very long time. I have a bucket scoop that is only used to remove mud from the bucket which prevents any contaminants from the walls, tape, etc from getting back into the bucket.

[@IggyPelman]

Quickset and regular drywall compound have different and specific purposes. Quickset is better for using as a fill because it doesn't tend to shrink as much but is harder to sand. Drywall compound is used to finish the wall's surface. And if your bucket of drywall compound has dried out then add water. What I'd avoid is the more expensive dust control compound as the difference is negligible.

[@shawnstone8924]

Wrong dude. Quickset is easier to sand, which is why it's not supposed to be used as a top coat. Other mud dries harder and is better for high traffic areas. We mix a whole bag of 45 first then use bucket mud after, this giving us 2-3 coats of mud in 1 day. Day 2 sanding

[@randomrazr]

so if u skim coat a wall, avoid quick set, go for reular all prupose? which brand do u ecomend

[@lordrichard8184]

A big advantage of getting the mud you mix yourself is you can change the set time simply by changing your water temp. I always buy the 90 minute mud since it has the longest work time and is also the easiest to sand. If I need to do a quick dent fill right before I paint. I can mix hot water with the 90 minute mud and have it dry in a few minutes. If you use cold water it’ll take longer.

[@MAGAMAN]

I'm guessing you never skim coat walls. Using Hot mud would be a huge waste of time.

[@DrMathOfficial]

​@@MAGAMANplease explain?

[@rrmorris67]

I have used that exact stuff countless times. I finished my entire basement, bathrrom and bedroom, walls and ceilings, garage walls, a couple kitchen and bath remodels. Whats the problem?

[@Mang213]

I almost always use buckets. Never had a problem, just need to toss a bit of water in there for obvious reasons. Only issue I've ever had is sometimes getting mold to overtake the bucket. But thats rare too if you store properly

[@Rico702Vegas]

Use 20 minute lite (easy sanding) for just about everything, and spackle is awesome stuff too.

[@zapatastyle]

20 min is my go-to. I use bucket mud for finishing coat. This works for me.

[@michaeljohnston7450]

Been building and remodeling for almost thirty years. I've never had a five gallon bucket of mud dry out or mold. I like the 20 minute mud for first coat. Then premix top coat.

[@Irwhodunit]

Video, four minutes. Reading comments, 40-minutes. Only on KZbin.

[@sidsid9808]

I have used mud from opened bucket even after 3-4 years. BUT follow these directions: 1. Roughly clean the bucket wall with a wet rag & level the leftover mud in the bucket. 2. Sprinkle some water on the mud, just a small amount. 3. Put a shrink wrap, sticking it directly to the mud surface. 4. Close the bucket by tightly securing the lid on the bucket. You will have no issues when you reopen the bucket after extended storage. Also, it's better to store mud in the basement which is a bit cooler.

[@greggin9116]

Thank you Ethan! As you know, I’m not a professional and don’t claim to be, but I enjoy all aspects of learning diy remodeling and fixer upper topics. I was encouraged to use the all purpose bucket because it would be easier (ie: I couldn’t mix it wrong, it would be easier to work with, etc..). We’ll, I ventured out and now can say I’ve used both the “bucket” and the “bag”! I’m glad I did! (On an inconspicuous laundry room wall). Each have their place. For me, I’m staying with the bag. As long as I keep it dry, I can mix the amount I need for the next project. What I learned as a “newby/wannabe “: probably better to start with longer working time... otherwise, the lower the number the quicker the lesson!😁. Thank you for your videos!

[@georgeobama-biden8670]

keep a bucket, and a small mixer/cordless drill. add some water, and spin until consistent. bucket mud is the way to go for small repairs.

[@mikecoffman2821]

Umm he isn't a professional either..

[@yzmoto80]

When you have been in the trades for a while (33 years for me), you will learn how to work a bucket of mud. Until that time, happy hot mud sanding to you !

[@bricemantel6619]

The package or bucket says "sand if necessary"......lol

[@HipposaurusRex]

I do drywall repairs all the time and I only use hot mud. If I'm hanging new sheets I'll use all purpose for the longer working time, but for small repairs it doesn't make sense to make multiple trips, so hot mud it is. If your technique is good there's not a whole lot of difference in sanding time between the two.

[@MAGAMAN]

@@HipposaurusRex This video isn't aimed at pros, it's aimed at amateurs and it is going to make a mess for anyone who takes this terrible advice.

[@DC632A]

I’ve never had any issues with All Purpose. It’s cheap enough to use and throw away for each project.

[@ThatKiltedGuyDIY]

Novices- be VERY careful using hot mud. It could make your life miserable. I teach how to use it right but if you can only build it up and sand it down, you’ll regret using it. All purpose is much more forgiving and a fine product.

[@randybobandy9828]

All purpose and especially all purpose lite sand well. I only use hot mud for gaps and patches or if I'm in a rush.

[@Joetime90]

I wish there was a powder form of all purpose here in the States. Vancouver Carpenter in Canada has so many varieties to choose from. All I have are heavy and light pre mixed, or hot mud. Gotta make use of what you got. But hot mud is ok if you can work with it in the time. Hot mud is temperamental... I mixed a bucket of 90 minute hot mud and it dried up. Unless you're a pro (or doing patches), I'd steer away from the stuff. How you mix it depends affects working time. If you're using a pan and knife, it's best to mix the heavy or light pre mix in your pan as you go. In a perfect world, doing everything in hot mud would be beautiful.

[@petergriffin1546]

What do you recommend on new plaster tool marks and pin holes repairs? UniKal says hot mud and not premixed. or bonding agent and plaster which seems difficulty for small pin holes...

[@randybobandy9828]

@@Joetime90 I live Vancouver carpenter. Good channel.

[@lopezjosealejandro]

I have never used hot mud before, but it looks good when you are in hurry. I think I would try it to satisfy my curiosity.

[@julianarchuleta2830]

I hang commercial grade drywall and finish level 5 with automatic finishing tools, bazooka, flat box.......every day I’m still learning, great video dude!!!

[@stevepseudonym445]

Thank you to the commenters who saved me from wasting 4 minutes by watching this.

[@citizenblue]

I use a kitchen mixer paddle chucked in a drill to mix in my mud pan. No chunks, perfect every time

[@MAGAMAN]

I'm guessing you don't do a lot of drywalling. That would never work for skim coating an entire room or house.

[@citizenblue]

@@MAGAMAN no, usually just patches. I have a mud man for bigger jobs.

[@JonnyDIY]

Buckets work fine. If you have a decent sized job get the Box (bag in a box) of premix. And if you need to store for a long time, add a lil bleach/water to top of pail and it won't dry out or mold 👍🏻

[@TimBrucker-h1s]

Thanks for helping an Electrician who generally sucks at drywall. Great Tips

[@jonyork999]

I always use a mix of both. Sheetrock 90 for the first couple layers, followed by regular "dust control" pre-mixed mud for the final coat. Easy sand, and you can get the mudding done in 1 day.

[@garrettdavis2354]

ive had a bucket of mud for 2 years that i just used today for some of my home repairs..... and it worked pretty well.🤷‍♀

[@dougiedamit]

Yes, the mud can dry out if you leave it open. If you really want to seal it up after use place some plastic wrap (saran wrap, etc..) directly on top of the mud to create an air tight seal.

[@lunarmodule6419]

And another important thing is the thickness of the coat you can apply. Super important! Pre-mixed will let you put 6 mm to 13 mm, if you put more it will take for ever to set and will crack. These pre-mixes are for very shallow cracks. If you need thickness, mix you own stuff.

[@mdunbar008]

I bought a screw on lid at LOWES for less than $8, mud stays good for months and my wife doesn't have problems getting the lid off. When we get a new bucket we just move the lid over. No issues so far.

[@CheyenneNixon-p8m]

Philip seems like a very good finisher or plaster guy I don't know it's best to use plaster with plaster or hot mud using a church key AKA bottle opener with the pointed side (like opening canned milk) on it you scratch it out then you use mesh tape, I know papers tape is stronger I'm just saying the mesh tape will give it more to grab than paper tape plaster or hot mud because plaster sweats. That being said I wouldn't be bashing that one product because everybody's not working in a plastered house. I'm truly speaking from experience. Thank you😊

[@JasonHoningford]

It's not going to dry up in one day lol! I have some that's lasted years. I'm finally throwing it out though. Time to go blow $7 on another bucket of premixed, oh noes!!!!

[@mz_martina]

😄😂😄

[@almarosas7990]

lol

[@BobsHomeServicesLLC]

I am a home-improvement contractor and I love the all purpose mud in the green top container. The only thing you need to be concerned about is when you’re done using it you Scrape the mud off the side of the bucket so that it does not harden on the walls and then pour water into the bucket just till it covers the mud and it’ll last forever. I’ve never had any mud dry out nor have I had any mold grow. The fast setting compounds, while very useful to contractors and people experienced with drywall repair, hot mud is a wonderful alternative but usually the DIY or has trouble using these these and they don’t sound very well and often when a DIY or tries sanding these or applying them they put it on too thick and end up with more of a mess. I would recommend using all purpose but if you have zero experience with Drywall or very low experience. And I certainly wouldn’t be worried about mold growing I’ve never seen that happen in my lifetime.

[@jpaugh64]

I bet mold growth inside the bucket depends on your geographical location, and how likely it is for mold to grow _outside_ of the bucket in your area.

[@hondaguy9153]

I think having a thin layer of water on top helps keep that mold from growing. I've had stuff where it grew mold but I'll try a bit of water on top next time I store a bucket of mud.

[@e-vd]

Good tip. Hot mud definitely has its uses. In my experience it's great for patch work. But, for covering large areas the extra glue in the All Purpose bucket mud is the way to go. Also, I tend to get small bubbles/ pock marks when applying hot mud. I fill these tiny holes with a different product in the final coat. Still, I do like the fast drying action of the hot mud. It definitely speeds up the process.

[@jeffreyallen3777]

This is a great product if you want to finish small projects quickly, but it's not ,in my opinion a replacement for bucket mud. Just my opinion It does not sand well so don't think you can overfill(easy to do for a novice) and just sand it off later. It's not like sanding concrete but you'll think it is. But it is a fantastic product for filling gaps in a lousy drywall hang, first coating outside corners, hole repairs, any place where you need to lay a thick coat of product and have it ready for a finish coat in a couple hours.I think you might be exaggerating the spoiling in bucket issues a bit . Just keep your bucket cover on at all times and if it's going to be stored for a few days or longer, scrape the inside walls of the bucket clean down to the level of whats left and even then cover it with the plastic skin that you removed when you opened it(also remember you get a nice $4 bucket with cover when it's emptied for whatever reason). Store in acool place and you won't get mold for a long time. You point out all the things I like about this product, but like anything , when used carelessly you'll get yourself in trouble. My best practice-use this as a filler with great care and then finish with super thin, almost scrape clean coats of regular mud.They will dry very quickly. If you have trouble with joint tape lifting with regular mud, this is a great first coat product. Finally don't pour this stuff down your drains, it can fill a trap and harden like cement. I have actually seen this happen.This is just my experience. Like your videos, thanks for making them.

[@bobbybass8557]

40 years in the busines and this guy dont have a clue. Hot mud has its place. Dont listen to this guy

[@rynhanson]

Came here to say the same thing...

[@rynhanson]

@Xavier Holland no i came to this video bc i do this for a living and after watching saw they are saying shit that isnt true. I was trying to save a diy'er some issues. But dont listen. I dont give a fuck if you screw it up bc you will probably end up paying a patch guy like me to go fix your screw up for twice the price bc we have to redo your crap

[@rynhanson]

@Xavier Holland its guys like you that keep me busy lol. Do you know the glue levels of each type of mud? Do you know the sanding capabilities of each mud, or the strength level? I use both durabond and mud everyday. But i know each had its own place and purpose and one cant always do what the other does.

[@rynhanson]

@Xavier Holland mkay moron. I using simple terms for the adverage person. And no i dont own the multi million dollar drywall business i work for. But nice try. But i have been doing this for 20 years and make a good living with no call backs. I dont care what you think. Take the videos advice. And a real drywall finisher will laugh at your work

[@elmerdane]

Im a painter and even i know better

[@charlesbehlen6225]

Check joint compound for mildew as soon as you buy it,; take it back if it smells sour or is green. If it's fresh, make sure you pound down the lid with a rubber mallet after each use. Check to make sure the lid is tight against the lip. I've used tons of joint compound without any problems. Yeah, it doesn't dry quickly, but it's not so slow as to slow you down significantly. Also, the color of joint compound often lets you fill nail holes in off white walls without repainting. Want to store what's left over for a long time? Pour enough water on the top of the open bucket to completely cover what's left. It will remain on the top without thinning the product. Just pour off the water after you open the container.

[@georgegravette1132]

So . . .he's essentially saying that when you open the bucket, the bucket contents start to dry up, but the stuff you put on the wall is slow to set up and slow to dry. Makes perfect sense.

[@blazeofficial1591]

Lol he’s talking crap.

[@jefferydean3082]

No shit....

[@kulturfreund6631]

Quick and slow is relative

[@Seriouslydave]

It expires if you leave the bucket open while you mud. Open the lid get some out then shut the lid. My bucket has lasted since i opened it march 2020 i have a 3rd left i just checked it 5 minutes ago and its the same as the day i opened it, i didnt add water, just didnt leave it open for more than a few seconds and put some in a gallon icecream container to use. scrape It off the sides to the bottom as the sides do cure but not the bulk.

[@MAGAMAN]

@@Seriouslydave A fool and their compound are soon parted. The guy who made the video is a fool.

[@KBQuick81]

I usually love his content, but I wasted a whole day and money trying to repair my wall using this method. Had to throw it all out and get a bucket of the pre mixture stuff. Smooth sailing from there on out.

[@DaruDhillon]

Get premixed mud if you’re a DIYer or homeowner doing a few repairs. It’s versatile and easy to use. Keep it simple.

[@kellyinfanger9192]

When finished using the all purpose mud and waiting for your next coat, smooth off the top with your trowel, pour a thin layer of water on top, seal up the lid. When opening again, pour off the thin layer of water. Your mud will last a long time, and you won't have the hassle of mixing up batch after patch of hot mud. The water over-compensates for any evaporation and puts a perfect airtight seal on the bucket until you are ready to use it again (eliminating most of the problems mentioned).

[@UziOptions]

yeah, but he said hot mud dries so fast, why bother with pre-mix mud and have to wait so long twen coats

[@MAGAMAN]

No need to pour water over it. Just keep the lid lightly on when working and then make sure it is sealed up tight when you are done and it will be fine.

[@MAGAMAN]

@@UziOptions If you are skim coating an entire room or doing repairs on an entire house, the dry time won't matter because you will have plenty of other things to keep you busy while you wait.

[@trosclair434genus4]

What I’ve noticed is with hot mud, i end up wasting way more than with the premix. The premix that I’ve used I always use multiple times. It’s never hardened on me unless I leave the lid off. If you use ultra lightweight mud in the 5gal premix, it dries around the same time as hot mud if it’s a bigger patch, and I can just save it for later and not throw any rock away because it dries in 30 minutes or less

[@dr.kennymakit1167]

I’ve never had a problem with this product.

[@Capable-opinions]

Small job, DIY, buy pre mix. Expecting a regular Joe homeowner to use any dry mix is a little ridiculous. I buy the Green top and if you keep the sides clean and lid tight, it will last a good while.

[@rolfbjorn9937]

Hahahahaha Thanks for insulting all the handy people who are not pros. Pre mix sucks. Takes forever to dry, and is fragile, will cause even MORE pain to inexperienced people because of that. Will take 3 fucking days just to patch anything significant. I sure want to get done within one day. I'll use setting mud 9/10 as a self taught tenant. Just practice in places that dont matter visually like closets or on scrap drywall then graduate to living spaces. Now Mr Pro, go mix some 2-4 component products like epoxy and fillers and tell me I can't mix miscible powder with water because I'm not a drywall pro...

[@homefrontforge]

I've opened boxes from the supplier that had the lovely pink mold growing in them. I've kept partial buckets literally for years and had no problems. Bag mud has its uses, but I generally use it in super damp conditions on big fills like corner bead. If I choose to triple coat, I will top with plus 3 or topping and sand the next day. If you get on hot mud too quick it tends to offgas while curing and give you pin holes. Sanding Easy Sand isn't too bad, but regular "brown bag" Durrobond is a bear. If you use it, underfill the joint or shave the high spots off before they set.

[@Galgamoth]

the pinholes are from patching no pinholes on fresh drywall only when plastering over paint

[@pcno2832]

I don't see one as superior to the other. Hot mud is a PIA to mix, less flexible when it dries and a little harder to sand, but not being water soluble when cured, it's much better for wet areas and takes less time to be ready for the next coat. Ready-mix is much more convenient, more flexible when dry (thus better for treating recurring cracks), easier to apply in the thinnest possible coats and a joy to sand. I wouldn't want to mix up a batch of hot mud just to fill one of those little gouges you notice while cleaning, but I wouldn't want to wait a day for a deep gap of ready-mix to dry.

[@trosclair434genus4]

You also throw away a lot of hot mud. I’ve never wasted any premix. And I’ve always been able to throw the excess back in the buck, lid the bucket, and take to the next job.

[@FirstName-lv8gx]

If u are not a pro, don't use the bag. In the dry wall world its still called "Durabond" or "Quickset". It will not sand. Its awesome for holes, cracks, moulding. Not for paper tape, use mesh. First coat durabond and add regular bucket mud for a nice finish and sanding.

[@coreyrosenthal4278]

I have had my bucket open for hours and did not harden and I've had a small bucket for Over 2 years and still good as new.

[@austinbrooks965]

I’ve had a bucket for months now. Works fine

[@jschlaud6]

As a professional trademan working in construction and renovations i personally will use hot mud for coats one and two, and finish with a premixed bucket of dust control compound. Much easier to get the final result your looking for. Also much easier sanding when it comes to that stage. Knife sanding in between coats.

[@jsh3234]

I tape with Durobond 90 then my second coat once the 90 sets, with sandable setting type then when that has set, finish off with a coat of light weight bucket mud. And go back the next day to finish sand or just sponge it off. This system cuts down on having to go back and forth to the job by one.

[@josephgries4683]

I use that exact product for small repairs around the house. Got a tub that sat in my basement for 2 or 3 years and is still fine.

[@UAMartin7]

After watching this video I went to check on the 3.5 qt. USG All Purpose pre-mixed joint compound that I used just once over 3 years ago. No mold and still soft. Like new.

[@MAGAMAN]

Yeah, this video is stupid. Amazing the wrong information always seems to get the most views on youtube.

[@melvinlara-falcone2362]

As a drywall installer for 17 years I never had a problem with ready to use drywall mud compound in buckets never had mold or never had a dry up on me this video is very important to those that our first time drywaller‘s and do it yourself or‘s one thing I would like to point out all I always used the entire bucket so if you go to the store to buy the stuff that’s ready to use make sure you buy the right size bucket and use it all

[@ezu5131]

In my experience both are useful for different purposes. The ready-mixed stuff is great for large fill coats while hot mud is better for small jobs, taping, and filling gaps (with mesh tape). But yes for small jobs the bucket will be an absolute waste.

[@homebrewer7]

I have been a been a drywall contractor sense 1968. You. xxxare partly right. You can keep the joint compound longer by adding small amount of water and add a small amount of bleach and cover tightly. Yes it will eventually becom moldy after weeks or months but I use all mine up. You can also purchase all purpose in bags of a dry mix. Hot mud is more difficult and basically only for small areas. There aredegrees of batches on set up time. I use mostly 20 minute mud. When I use regular all purpose joint compound is with pepper tapping. After I finish other coats with Topping joint compound.. Smoother sands easy. Less vinyl in it. Topping Fry's much faster esp when using a large fan in the room. Patching with hot muds I use a hair dryer to quickly dry the compound.

[@donovanbeavers3274]

I use hot mud all the time. Full 5G buckets of 20 min. Get it up, rinse your tools, relax for a few, then lay it down as it kicks off. Always finish with green dot topping, it works better as a final coating for me.

[@A.S.P.R.]

Are you doing drywall install?

[@joshd108]

20 minute mud is my favorite. I do patches frequently and it will be ready for sanding in 15 minutes or so if you hold a hairdryer on it.

[@timejumper8003]

Hot mud is not for rookies. They are good for the pro who wants in and out in a day.

[@A.S.P.R.]

I agree. If anything, newbies should start with 90 min mud and only mix a little. It does take some instruction to use effectively. When you need it, however, bucket mud just won't do, like on deep repairs (more than 1/4". I help novices and pros learn how to use this material and do various repairs on my training website: www.americanschoolplasterrestoration.com

[@victorflores6408]

Yes sir. I use 5min

[@jasonmull5613]

I use 5 min

[@mariosanchez-sj9yv]

I ben doing high production muding. Good luck sanding that Lol

[@mariosanchez-sj9yv]

Quick setting is for patch work. In and out

[@CheyenneNixon-p8m]

Okay if you're going to get in the drywall that much on finishing ..... impress us and mix that hot mud on a hawk... Yes I can but I only do it for small patches. But I would actually prefer if I'm going to use hot mud to mix a 5-gallon bucket of it or whatever amount I need it sometime the problem with hot mud is when you go over it with another coat of joint compound or all purpose is fine there will be a lot of bubbles or holidays whatever you want to call them. I don't care how good you pull that sheetrock mud I don't care what kind of mud you use joint compound vinyl whatever you want to call it but I've got to say I've been in this business for a long time and it is nothing wrong with that joint compound that I have ever seen... So far so good. Just make sure when you're finished stomp the lid shut don't tight or put the lid on stand on it and go around and click it and make sure it's all good and I don't shut it with your hands just use to heal your boot and stomp it. Nothing wrong as long as it's still good closed airtight very good. I'm not trying to rain on your parade I'm just saying.😊 But thank you for the video however I can agree with you. But I hope you have a fantastic day and a very good and thriving business. 😊

[@hooflungpoo8757]

This guy doesn’t know what he’s talking about. Ive had the same brand of mud for over 2yrs and still using it. When I’m done getting mud from the bucket, I level out the mud in the bucket and clean around the edges of the bucket and lay a piece of plastic directly on the mud and put the lid back on. It’s that’s simple.

[@Ciricky]

Me too.

[@yechaskelbreier1655]

Yup!

[@riding2nowhere]

You got that right. If your mud is drying out in the bucket, it means you're too slow. Been using a box and bucket mud since the 80s,no problem. He sucks with the quick service too.

[@FJBsaidcornpop]

He was probably using the mud directly out of the bucket and leaving the lid off when he went to lunch and scraped the dry mud off of his plastic mud knife on the edge of the bucket when he gets back. 😂 I'm not mixing up mud everyday, not happening, I know some that do, have fun with that.

[@nailbanger2]

Yup, he definitely doesn't clean the sides. I use hot mud when it's called for, but always use bucket mud for the final (3rd) coat.

[@gilboston20033]

Good tips, for spot patching, add a little chalk to the mud to tint it. It will be easier to find where has been patched. For ready-mix mud, at the end of the day make sure to level your mud in a bucket, add a little bit of water and cover with a thin film of plastic. Over 30 years working as a house painter.

[@grabasandwich]

I absolutely *hate* drywall. So frustrating to work with and it breaks so easily. If you're a drywaller, you have my respect! I couldn't do it every day.

[@MAGAMAN]

Drywall is extremely easy to work with. Tile flooring is what really sucks. I now know where the saying "I would rather die on my feet than live on my knees" really came from.

[@jackt6112]

I agree. 1. When you are working with a previously painted surface, the paint is WAY harder than any all purpose/joint compound or spackle. Harder is what you need. Fill flush, or terribly close to it, because hot mud doesn't shrink hardly at all, and the surrounding wall roller texture will take care of the slight overfill when you run the tool over it. After it sets, feathering and sanding is one operation, not edges first, and then carefully across the middle to try not to leave a low spot at the site of the repair. THAT adds up to being DIY-friendly. Prime it with the paint you plan to use over it. On the next coat, use a mini-roller to make bring back the texture to match the rest of the wall. 2. If the repair has significant depth to it, often people find out after the fact that it wasn't quite dry enough and and shrunk. Hot mud is much less likely to develop cracks and imperfections in the finished surface because after it sets, it will not change. THAT is DIY-friendly. 3. Hot mud bonds better and is stronger without perfect crack preparation, which saves time, results in a bettery job, which is also DIY-friendly.

[@jonathancurrier8147]

Great tips and info on this page. However, the time it's going to cost me to sit and mix my perfect peanut butter compound compared to spending $15.00 on a 4.5 gal bucket of mud...I think I'll splurge and get the 4.5 gal bucket.

[@Mike-su8si]

Might do that for my friend cause I'm not use to the old all purpose stuff in the bucket he has anyways plus it is old puddy and i like using the pink stuff that drys fast and turns white when its dry

[@roccomiers477]

I have used pre-mixed compound for years. It does take a bit to dry, but I have never had a problem with it. I have used "hot mud" on rare occasions when I need to do several coats in a single day. However, most of my spackling is done via pre-mix. I believe that pre-mixed compound is the way to go about 80% of the time.

[@peterbergeris6510]

I can use wtr with general purpose mud and it applies smooth and I have never had mold in bucket. Keep lid tight. Some ppl use quick setting cause they need to apply 2to 3 coats in one day. Homeowners can wait.

[@TheHonestCarpenter]

I'd say that's mostly true, Peter. But it seems that people who watch my channel are DIYers or homeowners who want to know how the pros do it. So, I show them stuff like this. Plus, as good a shelf life as bucket mud might have (if carefully stored and handled), it just can't compare to the longevity of hot mud in a plastic bag. Mine STILL hasn't gone bad, and I use it maybe a couple times a year now. You can stretch out one $12 bag almost indefinitely. Hard to beat that.

[@A.S.P.R.]

Homeowners can wait. As the owner of a very profitable plaster repair company though....I can't. The less time on site, the more money in my pocket and the more customers I can serve. The more money in my pocket, the less reason I need to go into a different career.

[@confusedcynic9073]

As a landlord I always am patching walls, if you scrap down the mud in the bucket to a flat level and wipe the walls clean with a wet rag it will stay good a long time.

[@kellyknowles4584]

I see everyone talking about sanding, if you know how to control your knife, very little sanding.

[@TheHonestCarpenter]

Very true, Kelly! Phillip is going to show that in our next video together

[@A.S.P.R.]

Yes! Focus on knife skills so you will have very little sanding. But that can take years......or some good one-on-one instruction.

[@rkb6783]

@@TheHonestCarpenter you're NOT honest !

[@thelogician1934]

Not true. Sanding has more to do with too much bhbbles in the mud, so you have to do multiple layers.

[@drywallguy2013]

Tellm brotha. !

[@CyprionMPuli]

I have used the premixed mud and it works just well. I close the lid and it keeps it soft 👍🏾

[@jessespencer9810]

Tried some 45 today...never again. Goes from smooth working to unworkable in 10 minutes. The bucket stuff I use for months as long as : You keep scraping the sides of the bucket down and you cover with fresh plastic after each use. You can also add water to thin out compound and use mixer to smooth out.

[@polygaryd]

Same thing happened to me when using 45. It definitely seemed like it set up well before the 45 minute mark and I even tried mixing it thin after the first mix. Smh

[@MAGAMAN]

Yep, this video is full of bad advice, but still got millions of views and over 20k thumbs ups by ignorant people. Most of them are probably completely turned off to drywall work after trying this.

[@alanbartley4260]

I was a drywall contractor and finisher for around 45 years. I used bucket mud the whole time and never had any problems. If you keep the side cleaned and wiped down each time you go and get your mud, you won't have any problems. A finisher that is just that , knows how to mix his mud for taping, bedding and skimming. Also, knows how to mix the mud in the buckets for swirling or texturing ceilings. That old box and powder mud isn't worth using and too much mess. I guess that separates the pro's from the Jack Legs.

[@todaysfreedoms7069]

If your going that slow, mold is probably growing on you back side!

[@La_abbess]

🤣

[@cavsomecadence6117]

Sloth painters.

[@christianhaynes1954]

Exactly , I can sling a 5 gal bucket empty in short order

[@TheLandlordPicker]

Ha....👍

[@bricemantel3191]

Shit I never use anything except 5, 20, and 45 minute mud. Three coats in half a day. Never went back to bucket mud....too slow.

[@margerykirner5604]

I use the mud in a tub to make my stone walls . It works great! It will keep a few weeks as well Plus no unhealthy mixing! It hardens up in a few hrs giving you plenty of time to work it!

[@davesilvia9711]

lol, dura bond comes in diffrent drying times, hard as a brick when it dries, should only be used for first coat. blue top is good for finishing, mix a drop of dawn in it and it will go on smooth as glass.

[@danwheeler5130]

good tip never heard that thanks

[@buk6708]

Do not do that, it will fish scale the drywall.

[@davesilvia9711]

@@buk6708 just a drop

[@buk6708]

@@davesilvia9711 I trust you Sir, I heard about it, fishscaling, have not seen it happen myself. I don’t wanna disrespect you, just wanted a warning. I am not a drywaller, but I hire them and heard from several guys about Dawn fishscalings on walls. To each his own buddy lol. I would let you do it however you do it as long as that wall looks good.

[@randyhollabaugh1524]

I have a bucket of drywall mud that is around 7 years old and still good. The water has settled out somewhat a couple times I just stir it up really well and go. It has an airtight gasket in the lid. You just have to keep the lid on it ( like every other wet product).

[@burner188]

Yup, exactly. Never had a problem with my small all purpose buckets. Keep the side walls clean and a little moisture in the bucket, you’re good to go for years

[@garycasper2929]

Thank you for this up-load Sir. & if you can get past some of the ego in the comment section, there’s some good tips and info to gain. 👍

[@curiosi-tea6914]

I've used bucket mud well over a year after opening it the first time and it was good as new. Just put the lid back on after you get your mud pan filled.

[@DannyB-cs9vx]

The faster the mix, the harder it seems to sand. The last coat I use the slowest, usually 90 minute mud.

[@ron75569]

has nothing to do with it ,all quick set sands harder, if you put some dawn dish soap in with it, it will sand as easy as regular mud

[@hiker64]

For those experienced here, I keep a small bucket of pre-mixed around and when it starts to dry out I just add a tiny bit of water and stir to bring back to the proper consistency. Is that wrong? Granted the stuff isn't that expensive and I only use from time to time for spot repairs, but hate throwing away materials if they can be revived with a little water or stirring.

[@ta9197]

This is hilarious! Mixing with a tiny pan and 3" knife 😂. Must be paid by the hour. Use the bucket mud, works much better.

[@buk6708]

Reality is light years diff than KZbin lol

[@Dwayne_Bearup]

I guess he's never heard of using a paddle mixer in a drill. Or even a paint stick in a plastic cup. Mixing hot mud in the pan is ridiculous. Of course bucket mud is the way to go if you're doing a whole wall, or room (or house.) But for a small patch - say a door knob hole or some water leak damage - I can complete my patch and let it dry while I clean my tools, then if it's flat, SantaFe, or skip trowel texture, I can do that with the hot mud - no sanding needed - and paint before I leave. Job done in one trip. Orange peel or knockdown, that takes a second trip because I spray texture before I leave and then come back to paint, but that's still better than pre-mixed joint compound which typically takes three trips no matter what texture it needs. If I worked in a hotel or apartment complex the need for return trips wouldn't be such a big deal, but my jobs can be 20 or 30 miles apart, so hot mud saves me a lot of time and my clients a lot of money.

[@American-Plague]

@@Dwayne_Bearup You can patch a sheetrock hole on level 5 sheetrock with literally NO sanding...and it doesn't look like shit after its painted? Blends right in? I'd LOVE to see that one.

[@Dwayne_Bearup]

@@American-Plague Level 5 sheetrock...? If you mean a level 5 finish on sheetrock, I didn't say that. Most drywall isn't finished to that high a standard. What I said was, if I'm not dealing with a spray on texture I can do a repair of up to 20 sf in a day, complete with paint, and with no need to sand. And yes, after two coats of paint it blends in with the existing wall texture and paint. Because, as I said, on most drywall the finish isn't that remarkable to begin with. (I wish it was - it's easier to match my repair to a good finish and decent texture than most of the work I find in my client's homes and businesses.)

[@American-Plague]

@@Dwayne_Bearup Idk what they do where you live but here, if sheetrock isn't textured it is FLAT and you are NOT going to blend it in without any sanding at all. I've fine sheetrock all my life and I've NEVER seen anyone mud drywall with ZERO sanding and it blend in when painted. Again, I (and every sheetrock finisher I've ever seen) would LOVE to see that trick.

[@trinanestor6653]

I have successfully solved the mold problem by recreating the plastic covering it has when new. I clean out bucket with the rounded bucket knife, level off mud, place layer of plastic. Good every time.

[@csuss]

I think the key to this is the first sentence: for drywall touch-ups. As the “kilted guy” states and proves in his videos - the buckets have their place and their ability to be sanded much more easily is a big point that is missed in this video. As a DIYer I am tackling a popcorn ceiling removal and have learned quickly that both forms of mud (hot/quick setting and the pre mixed variety) have their place in a slightly bigger DIY project. The other point missed in this video that I wish had been mentioned, that I learned elsewhere, is that hot mud is much better for big fills/depressions as the pre mixed has significant cracking and shrinking. A premixed can then be used for subsequent coats as it will be much more easily sanded.

[@getyourfeelgoodbackbjones1576]

I used some that I bought 3 months ago. I covered it with plastic then put the lid on it. Works great.

[@duanedelperdang1749]

Highest respect for people who do a qualty job with this kind of work. It's not easy.

[@MAGAMAN]

It's actually pretty easy. It's one of the favorite things I do on the house I bought because it is so easy. Floor tile on the other hand is something I never want to do again!

[@stepppatrick96]

You still need to skim with either all purpose or topping compound before priming. Quickset compound doesn’t leave a great finished surface for priming. I love the proform joint compound. It is a very smooth compound and is easy to work.

[@michaeljoesting4888]

I’ve used both and had more problems with the powder being harder to sand as well as having more shrinkage as it cures. The premixed buckets are easier to use are less messy. Plus they seal back up way easier. If you add a little water to it and make sure that you have clean edges for a tight seal of the lid after each use you can stretch your money and the shelf life. I made one bucket last several months between jobs.

[@TheHeadincharge]

The benefit of the hot mud is to quickly fill holes, have it dry quickly, then put your finishing coat on that same day and sand the next since the thin coat will dry much quicker. He didn’t fully explain the reason why it’s effective and it’s purely time-based and will still often require a finishing coat if a perfect finish is desired.

[@laoschild86]

I have that same bucket for almost a year. After opening and not using it, I put those plastic food wraps over the top of the bucket and close the lid. It keeps it moist and doesn't dry out or grow any mold

[@BulletproofPastor]

Hot mud has its place but there's a lot of dis-information presented here. I've never had a bucket of mud get mold or dry out. 90 minute hot mud is a great time saver for first or second coat but I always use pre mixed for the top coat. I get a smoother finish and it dries plenty fast enough.

[@patman0250]

People reading comments do not listen to this video. I've been using the same all purpose mud for years now absolutely no problems with it. Bucket I have now been sitting there for 3 years with occasional use still absolutely fine. Just snapped a lit back on like it's supposed to if it ever does seem a little dry after a couple of years just add water. For jobs that need to be done like yesterday, is only real reason for justifying the use for this quick setting mud. Hmm I wonder who's getting paid to promote these products over here.

[@efvangilder2642]

I've used premixed mud for years. Before you close the mud flattened the top and place a damp rag over it. .if your doing a job you usually use the bucket up or within a couple of months. If you let it set for mo itsnths yes it will mold and smell bad but I'll cut the top couple of inches off that's molded and throw it away. Then I remix the bucket and it's good to good.

[@clydeperrine2959]

A better way to keep your mud from drying and forming mold is to take saran wrap (yes the type you use in your kitchen for food) and cover the mud in the bucket. Put the lid on it and it will be ready whenever you need it again. I have one that I stored for 3 years and when I needed to repair a wall from a plumbing task it was perfect. The wrap will pull off easily and can be reapplied when you need to store it again.

[@TheDiosparati05]

I've been mixing 5 minutes set in a ziploc bag and squeezing out like a cake decorator. When it starts to harden, I just throw the zip lock back away. No mess, no clean-up. Best hack i've ever used for 5 minutes set.

[@QuantumMechanic_88]

My trust factor in The Honest Carpenter is super high . I'm wondering how many folks have used 91 % isopropyl alcohol to speed up drying time with drywall compound . Great video and thanks .

[@TheHonestCarpenter]

I didn't even know about the isopropyl trick, Quantum! What ratio do you mix it at? How much does it speed it up by? This is a great tip--I might do some experimenting and include it in an upcoming video. Thanks as always for watching and writing in!

[@QuantumMechanic_88]

Did this years ago and was using fairly fresh compound from a bucket and the ambient room temp was about 40 degrees . Added aprox. 1/2 cup iso to about a quart of compound . I'm not certain how quickly the alcohol sped up the drying time , but we were painting over repairs in aprox 2 hours in cold temps . The latex paint also had some iso added . 2 weeks later after the heat was turned on in the house , things looked fine . Kind of a lame answer .

[@edover50]

Interesting. Ethan this would be good to try in a future video. my speeding up process is my heat gun but will try the isopropyl

[@TheHonestCarpenter]

@@edover50 Heat gun is what I use, Ed (we'll show that in the next video). But now I'm really curious about this!

[@TheHonestCarpenter]

@@QuantumMechanic_88 I'm into it! I appreciate the breakdown, especially with the paint considerations. Drywall/plaster and paint are just hand and glove--never one without the other. So all changes to one can have down-the-line effects. But this still intrigues me! Next time I'm whipping up a batch...