SPACKLE Vs. DRYWALL MUD/JOINT COMPOUND (What's the Difference? When Should You Use Them?!)

[@TheHonestCarpenter]

Ready to build your tool kit on a budget? Don’t miss the 25 Must-Have Carpentry Tools Under $25! Get your FREE guide here 👉 bit.ly/25GreatTools

[@brandenjohnson2980]

A thermostat and humidifier file control hole what would u use? New furnace so replaced the thermostat spot in house

[@SnarkyRC]

I mix them together sometimes. The results are better than you think.

[@trinityestrada9588]

Thank you….. I think I’ll try that.

[@JL-ze5qm]

I've been studying how to do various diy jobs around the house and was getting so confused because there are so many different words for the same materials and also slightly different materials. Mud, joint compound, spackling, plaster, sheetrock, drywall....aaaaahhhh! Came here to say how appreciative I am of this video. It was so very helpful and well-written. I need things explained to me like I'm five, but without the sarcasm and belittlement, which you've done very tastefully. Thank you!

[@Hifirrrr]

Same 😁 finally a video thats 'really' helpful

[@OphilliaBalls]

Sheet rock and dry wall are the same thing it’s like calling soda coke, it’s just the name brand

[@JL-ze5qm]

@@OphilliaBalls Yes, I figured that one out. But, thank you very much.

[@canadaeast8358]

I like the pink spakling good for small jobs and when it’s white it’s dry . Good video man you know what your talking about

[@mindytaylor1716]

....being single has its disadvantages not knowing how to fix things is one but with the help of your videos this probably will save me lots of money major headaches and time thank you appreciated

[@drkennethnoisewater4469]

I never comment on DIY stuff. This video was EXCELLENT. TO THE POINT!!! Thank you!!!

[@TheHonestCarpenter]

Thank you, Kenneth! 😄

[@TotemoGaijin]

I actually used both for my drywall. First I filled any gaps with spackle, since it shrinks less, then did my first and second coats of mud, then cut out any little blisters in the tape and patched them with spackle, then skim coated over everything.

[@incognitotorpedo42]

Note that hot mud has to be mixed with water, and instead of slowly drying like joint compound, it sets via a chemical reaction with water. It is much stronger than joint compound, but is harder to sand. It comes with setting times of 5 to 90 minutes.

[@trainraider8]

Those are the working times, 5-90 minutes. Setting time is a little more than double the working time. And drying time is still about 24 hours, and it needs to be dry, not just set, before painting. You can start wet sanding and feathering with a big yellow polyurethane sponge around the set time though and then do the next coat if it needs it.

[@ronthompson310]

This video should be used as an example of how to do an informational video. Really great stuff.

[@neomacchio4692]

I suggest compressing those damages in the wall with the back of your knife first… you have to create a divot first, then fill. That way you don’t have the paper showing through.

[@dangrimes5078]

That is good advice. Ask me how I know 😢

[@marvinostman522]

Something I do for nail holes or when wall anchors have been removed. I will take a screwdriver with a nice ball shaped end on the handle and press it into the hole and press just hard enough to fold the paper into the hole and leave a slight dimple. Fill the hole with your choice. After it is dry I will paint over it and take the brush and use the flat surface and lightly tap the wet paint. It leave a slightly rough surface like a roller leaves.

[@macsloan58]

Very good. When you noted that spackle is essentially for smaller repairs, that was paramount. I have done a lot of repairs of plaster and drywall over the past 45 years or so. I am a DYI-er, but would like to think that I have above DYI skills. Maybe not by much, but a little. I worked for a painting contractor during my college years and the first few summers after college. He taught me quite a bit. Your video is quite timely as I am going to patch some holes in my son’s basement way. As it has been a couple years since my last efforts, I was pondering which product to use. Now…..I don’t have to think too much. I will just do as you instruct/suggest. Thank you.

[@neomacchio4692]

Plastic nails is by far the best for small holes. Dries like wood. Sherwin Williams shrink free spackle is incredible!!! Doesn’t shrink per the name and is super lightweight and easy to sand. You need nothing else when patching small holes. When patching larger holes, use the California patch and lightweight mud, premixed or not. Only use ANY OTHER mud, for first or second coats, never use anything but lightweight on your third coat or you’ll be cursing as you sand. Thank me later.

[@OldePhart]

This information was sorely needed. I just helped my son do a lot of work and the painters that followed (far too soon) were asking what we used, talked about "hot" mud. and gave me quite an education that I wish I had had before.

[@gizmo7877]

I’ve just been through several videos on Plaster of Paris and then saw your video on spackle. Wow, the difference in presentation was amazing! I couldn’t listen to them for more than 1 minute! Some should not be making videos!! I’m a get to it person, who likes a pleasing voice, intelligent and accurate information, helpful tips and thorough know.edge of the product and how to use it. One person said to fill the plastic cup “ up to the black line” ??? Huh? Actually I’m in need of filling a spot where paint came off from a Command strip so the Gods knew just what I needed!! You’re the absolute best and my go to for all projects!!

[@delluser4936]

You look like you should host your own show on carpentry / home repair products. This was helpful -- no one at lowes or home depot would iron it out clearly in that aisle of all the drywall products like you just did. Thank you.

[@Mateo47R]

For small holes, like nail and screw holes, make sure you dent it first before applying compound.

[@jordanmadden7388]

Thank you for this tip. A noob like me would not have realized to do that.

[@nocandopdx]

What's the purpose

[@roman2227]

@@nocandopdx the mud/spackle gets more inside the hole and edges of the hole and helps bind better than just being on the surface.

[@chelin7023]

Thank you for making it so simple and easy to follow; with so many products and versions of how to use them, becomes very confusing! This is really, all I need to know for my homeowner’s needs! Great video!

[@ericschmidt7351]

Thank you! Was just scratching my head in HD today about these exact choices. This cleared up my question perfectly.

[@gregbell5576]

Great video. Simple organized and to the point

[@markdantuono]

First time mounting a TV hiding the wires, but I wanted to do as much research I can before digging in ny drywall. I’ve came to accept that ima have to make another hole to get through the horizontal fire beam thing. I was gonna buy that mud thankfully you put me into the spackle. Highly appreciate it

[@AppalachianLife]

Vinyl spackle works great on wood. I like it better than wood filler for nail holes and seems in wood or plywood that is going to be painted. I've tried many brands and I think Sherwin Williams is the best.

[@williammead9966]

Here recently, I use the powder dry mix 45 minutes setting time for small nail holes, large patches, everything. Informative video

[@radondar9230]

FYI The "Easy Sand" is the go-to for me for any drywall repair. It dries based on the number. So "Easy Sand 5" - will dry in 5 minutes - very little working time before it hardens on you. I use Easy Sand 45, it will allow you to patch big and small. With the short dry time, it will allow you to sand in between coats and you can make different consistency mud for different coats. Depending on time frame you could patch and paint all in the same day without issues.

[@diverdave4056]

I mix it up using a cake beater in a small pail = faster mixing and allows you to apply it fast before it dries out

[@philarsenault8537]

Ethan, thank you for your vast experience in helping us neophytes understand how to use all kinds of products and tools.

[@TheHonestCarpenter]

You’re welcome, Phil!

[@zamorabora]

Perfect! I repaired some larger holes with joint compound and said "why not these little nail holes and dents while I'm here?" . But it shrank so much, the nail holes still look like nail holes. I'll hit them with lightweight spackle tomorrow because I'm eager to this wall repainted.

[@serbotech]

Once again, the Honest Carpenter told me everything that I needed to know in 5 minutes! Thanks for the time saver!

[@TheHonestCarpenter]

😁

[@maddyhansen2235]

He did such a great job of describing, then summarized! Thank you for helping a Mom trying to fix her house on a budget.

[@brandonbell5357]

Find you a sugar daddy

[@jayclark5912]

Old school plaster and lath is surprisingly easy to repair. Even larges sections cut for repairs. Replace lath, smush in a coat through thet lath to lock in in. Then after it dries a fisish to fill and level it. It looks a lot better than any sheetrock repair I could do.

[@kenbrown2808]

a great sneaky trick for small repairs on textured walls: a red window squeegee will clean whatever repair material you are using out of the existing texture, and depending on the size of the repair and type of texture, it will either not need textured, or you can apply texture from whatever texturing device you want. I did a lot of no-sand repairs while I was learning that trick.

[@blakeblean5003]

Wet sponge works great as well

[@yeeaahBUDDY]

@@blakeblean5003 I second this, but not too wet or it will wash away the whole thing. Just a damp sponge.

[@charleyboy6942]

I have a bag of quick set 45 min mud (Sheetrock 45) that I use for everything from paint prep to larger repairs or prefilling gaps. You can mix a small amount directly on a hawk or trowel, it does not shrink and some mix do not even need to be primed.

[@angellas.1314]

Yes, good idea if someone has the space to keep all the equipment needed for this process. Someone in a tiny NYC apt just can’t keep all that. So the ready made is much easier for that reason, and can be used prior to a big move, to leave the apt in good condition.

[@mikemroczkowski783]

I use 5 and 20 minute mud all the time for small repairs, the premix is great if you have the time.

[@lynnpritt4253]

Thank you so much! You showed how to use it, which one is best for which job, AND how the containers and contents inside look and different ways to buy it. I NEEDED this video so bad. You answered my questions no one else could answer for me.

[@Rockin_Ross]

I cut my drywall teeth last summer with an honest carpenter who used the green lid compound. Taught me a lot of great tricks using it and how to texture. I’ve been using the purple lid spackle for a good while and found I like the joint mud better. Just a personal preference. Great video!

[@johnberry1107]

Nice descriptions. Thank you. I have almost exclusively replaced my use of spackle with Plastic Wood. Whoa. Mix some acetone in there for a finish coat and I like it a lot. Stay safe.

[@GeorgeCostanza_]

This is the most informative video I’ve seen after watching multiple on this topic. Based on the information you provided, I have decided I will be purchasing lightweight spackle

[@TheHonestCarpenter]

Glad it helps, George! I always keep a tub of lightweight spackle 🙂

[@63supercobrajet]

for my big patching jobs, and old Plaster walls with a few deep cracks and holes, "LePage Polyfilla Spackling Big Hole Repair" easily filled them all in one coat, has great adhesion, doesn't shrink at all, and is easy to sand, feather, ready for primer, and paint, and I didn't even need any other drywall compound. - The only caveat is that it takes a bit longer to dry, and is more expensive than the avg. drywall compound.

[@Lew114]

Thank you. Things like this are simple and obvious to pros but terribly confusing to a beginning DIYer. Walking down the aisle at the home store and seeing the dizzying array of products is enough to scare a lot of people off a project. Or lead them to just guess at what they need make the project harder.

[@woody3590]

its a dog eat dog world out there!

[@ubernerrd]

For patching holes and stuff rock hard putty is the best stuff available. It's easy to mix, cheap, and very solid once it dries.

[@jayson3900]

Excellent video as always! Had this been published about a week ago I would've shown this video to the homeowner of the house I'm currently painting to better explain to them why I was using hot mud to fix some of the holes in their walls instead of spackling because I'm not always that great at explaining things to people, especially when they've exacerbated me. 😅

[@TheHonestCarpenter]

I’ve don’t tons of hot mud patches too, Jay! Philip is insanely at good at them 😄

[@monkeygraborange]

If you live to be 100 you can never explain things like this to people who don’t walk the walk, or actually care about learning. I just tell clients what I’m gonna do, and if they ask why, the answer is always “...because that’s how it’s done.” Never a problem after that!

[@u1zha]

@@monkeygraborange Well I mean... How do you tell which people asking do actually care about learning and which don't? I like Jay Son's approacy better, assume they do care unless they prove otherwise

[@gr8dvd]

@@u1zha 💯 only reason such a simple question is not answered by a ‘pro’… they don’t know, or are too insecure in their knowledge/skills and take the question personally.

[@abbassidazmirimarjan2432]

I was actually searching the web for the difference of these products for canvas DIY projects. But in any case this was super helpful 😊

[@echochamberdanger]

If you’re working on old horse-hair-plaster over lath: digging out cracks, repairing large holes, etc- you’ll want something like plaster of Paris. Netting tape can also be helpful (I’ve used it after digging out cracked plaster corners..ceiling to floor.) you must work FAST with this stuff, make tiny batches, dig your cracks out deep enough & vaccum! Let neurotic perfectionism take the wheel.

[@victorsvitilla9064]

I use light weight spackle to do a whole room it's great for DIY since it's easier to spread and frather

[@billprezioso3677]

I’ve been adding plaster of Paris to compound for years for quick drying with no shrinkage

[@PoppyDog]

The most useful 101 video ever made on this topic! This has been such a confusing issue for me - thank you for clearing it up.

[@milesharlan1]

Thank You Ethan!! I use the patch & paint lightweight for patching holes on wood trim. Drys quick & can recoat quickly & then paint. Keep up the good work!!

[@TheHonestCarpenter]

Thanks, miles-great advice!

[@Just.A.T-Rex]

Try the 3m patch plus primer higher quality product

[@roboticusroboticus7912]

I just started using lightweight spackle. Thank you for your info. Good stuff!

[@conniegreco8409]

You are my favorite show. We learn so much from you. Thank you so much. 😊

[@GrinderCB]

Good, helpful video. We had a remodeler who preferred mud but then he was doing a bigger job for us. I recently fixed up a closet and installed a closet organizer but used spackle to patch small things like screw holes. It worked fine and wasn't noticeable after sanding.

[@stevenwymor1398]

You might want to add that it’s good practice to wear a mask or respirator when sanding these products, especially joint compound.

[@Bremend]

Unless you are doing wet sanding

[@sunrae7680]

Yes. I'm a pulmonary vent and trach nurse. They don't want to see me.

[@opcpixie]

Thanks for posting this comment as I'm sanding my base compound coat on my first attempt at drywall repair (which is going much better than I thought as I've heard drywall can be a bit of a headache). Since these holes were a bit larger, I had to fit one with a piece of sheet rock, so I'm finishing the seams on that, and another with an 8"x8" mesh patch. Since they are larger holes I am using the joint compound but, either way, I wouldn't have thought much as to the dust coming off during sanding. Not unless it was uncomfortably noticeable. The one with the seams is under a large window so I wouldn't have cared either way on that one, it being fairly ventilated and all. Not being construction savvy, little things like that, which are actually good practice and important for longterm health, I'm likely to overlook as I tend to just do what I think is supposed to be done. Then, if I have a question (like why is they're wire mesh on this trowel I am using that is at my late father's house and if I need it because I'd rather use the surface area to get a good smooth finish. The small 4"putty knife I'm using isn't the greatest as it likes to dig in at its corner edges as it glides over the work area, especially when changing over from the wire patch with wall support behind it to the wire patch without the support of the wall since the patch naturally gives a wee bit when the slightest bit of pressure is directly over the hole. This question is what brought me here in the first place). Things I had drilled into my head as a child for being caustic and for remembering to take using with, sure. However, even though I know I have little to no knowledge of something my brain likes to manipulate me into thinking it's fine. I don't need any help. I have enough common sense to have it all figured out, you know that I know it all... Which of course is a laughable notion. Although I'm not sure which is funnier, that I think I know it all or that I'm self aware of that character flaw and yet still act as if I do. Perhaps the latter is a bit more laughable yet, albeit, tragically so. Where I went wrong is my placing it in the 'safe' category based on the material that makes up sheet rock and remembers dried joint compound/drywall putty is a similar texture/consistency, a material much like classroom chalk (which is non-toxic and harmless, no matter how much one might loath dusting chalkboard erasers and the coughing fit that ensues), they're likely, and foolishly so, to consider them close enough to being one in the same. Hopefully anyone else out there, who is similar to myself, is as fortunate to learn the truth before the sanding; that joint compound (and (doing the Ms. Know-it-all again) I'm guessing sheet rock) isn't as innocent looking or as harmless as it may appear to be. (P.s. While I do have enough common sense to know that anytime I'm working on a labor intensive project, working with tools or machines or working with types of material (solid, liquid or gas) I'm not 100% sure of I should take, if nothing else, the bare minimal safety precautions (protective eyewear, mouth covering/dust mask and/or ear plugs (if needed)). However, a lot of times-and f no fault but my own-I just wanna get in there and get it done. So that's on me. While it didn't cross my mind these materials might be harmful with prolonged use or excessive exposure, I'm not so stupid that I don't know I shouldn't be cautious. I'm just stupid enough to choose not to...unless I know I definitely, should. So, while I still may cut corners and only put a banana over my mouth, it's better than nothing and I wouldn't have had I not seen this comment, so thank you.) (P.p.s. Does anyone know why the wire mesh is on the trowel (I'll re-watch this video too as I missed 97% of it writing this reply but just in case it's not answered in the video), is there a reason for it? If not, or even if there is, on my last coat, to leave it looking as smooth and as closed to finished as possible, it's okay to take it off and use it to smooth my work over, right? It's just one of those regular 11" rectangular, flat, metal trowels. Alrighty, thanks everybody. Take care of yourselves now, ya hear?👷🏽‍♀️👋🏽

[@opcpixie]

@Phil Leonetti Jr. Hahaha well at least one of us will successfully complete the survival of the fittest. When push comes to shove, preventative measures, such as safety preparedness, are almost always easier to implement and sustain making them far more successful. Especially over defensive measures, such as, I don't know, treatment for lung disease brought on by years of inhaling toxic dust particles, since they tend to need aggressive and urgent implementation making them not difficult to sustain long-term. Hmm, where'd you say you got that bee suit again? You know, asking for a friend, lol.

[@TheLoopy989]

Ahhh quit it. Silicosis isn’t real.

[@LuminousSuperstar]

thank you. i have a bathroom ceiling needing the seam and tape repaired. I'll go with all purpose mud 👍

[@stopherharrison3059]

Concise and accurate. The way videos should be!

[@normferguson2769]

I used Spackle last week on a closet renovation because we ran out of drywall mud. It had the consistency of Playdough and wouldn’t thin out with water like drywall mud does. I squeegeed it onto the wall and let it dry overnight. There were lots of rough areas and holes on the long 8’ seam patches. I patched as much of the rough areas as I could, and painted it white to hide the flaws in the back of the closet.

[@Just.A.T-Rex]

The best I’ve found is the 3m patch plus primer over any Drydex product for simple DIYer patching

[@NottyGurlStyle]

I would have been confused for sure.. I would like to make little repairs without having to ask my husband to help me. Thank you soo much for this!!

[@devin5381]

The honest, concise carpenter.

[@Spewbacca]

Also worth noting that spackle contains adhesive so it dries very hard. This means it works better when patching painted surfaces, but it will create a different finish when patching unpainted plaster, just just be aware

[@rrichard5515]

Excellent video, short, to the point and very helpful.

[@stevenmoss6043]

Thanks for sharing. I’ve never used the denser spackle, I’m gonna give it a try. The lightweight spackle, requires multiple applications for larger holes. It also kinda stands out too, when used for larger repairs

[@cactusladysouth1000]

What so you mean by stands out?

[@stevenmoss6043]

@@cactusladysouth1000 the look compared to the rest of the wall. ie; the thickness/aesthetic

[@roberthiday3342]

I really enjoy your videos. you hit on topics that DIY folks wonder about and your explanations are always straightforward and helpful. thanks.

[@TheHonestCarpenter]

Thanks for watching, Robert!

[@benjaminziegler7437]

What you fail to differentiate is the difference in bucket mud vs dry powder compound. The dry stuff will virtually not shrink and it will not crack when applied in large have amounts, it is more related to plaster than joint compound. Bucket mud has more adhesives and is premixed and shrinks a lot. So for tiny repairs dry bagged mud is perfectly fine and will not shrink, plus it stores for a very long time, much longer than a little pale of spackle paste, and cost probably the same or less.

[@frontagulus]

He didn't fail - he wasn't intending to discuss the difference between bucket mud and powder. Pay attention before posting....

[@benjaminziegler7437]

@@frontagulus nope, you're wrong. 15 people agree with my original comment. Just stop trying to be a tough guy. Try again

[@greenidguy9292]

You’re correct if it is mixed properly, which most diy people don’t…same goes for concrete.

[@poladelarosa8399]

Clear & easy tutorial.

[@insantiago798]

All purpose Joint compound is just that, for joints when you’re taping or small holes, it’s the same as sparkle they are both similar the only different between the two is that one dries quicker lime plaster on the other hand is harder than both joint compounds and absorbs moisture better than both, you can skim coat a whole wall with lime plaster and be sure that it will be more smoother than both other compounds because they are porous like crumbling gypsum sheetrock

[@cltinturkey]

Great video! Your information and expertise are so helpful to us DIYers. My 75-year old house and I think you're the bomb!

[@jimyoung273]

I always wondered about the difference. Great video, thanks so much!

[@66block84]

I put a lot of holes in sheetrock installing business phone systems. Always made sure where the studs were, metal or wood, then would ask the customer if they were sure they wanted their wall phone "there". When they said yes, I would pop a hole with my hammer, the customer was usually shocked, but I reassured them the phone & it's wall bracket / mounting plate would cover the hole and all was good.

[@ramzikanaan5168]

Fantastic video, highly recommend watching in 2x speed

[@colinpovey2904]

Superb. Enough information, well presented, nad not drawn out to 10-15 minutes like so many today, could not be much better.

[@philg406]

Good, easy to follow explanations on each variety. I didn't know the difference between lightweight spackle and normal spackle. I'll look for lightweight spackle next time and use that instead of normal spackle... Thanks again Ethan 👍

[@TheHonestCarpenter]

Lightweight for the win, Phil! 😄

[@gregtowle8830]

@@TheHonestCarpenter we used hamiletons back in the mid 1970s Red for taping dot green dot for topping and skimming . Red dot did not seem to shrink as much

[@bobweiram6321]

Honesty is best left for others to determine.

[@icantdance6813]

Thank you for explaining a lot of my new homeowner questions. I bought a new home from a cheap builder (LGI HOMES) it’s 2 years old and they cut corners and made a lot of mistakes. I’m having to repair water damaged exterior door frames already. There are a ton of wall/ceiling cracks they came in and caulked. Floors that won’t stay down. Cold air coming in through electrical outlets. Gaps and holes in the exterior caulking around doors and windows and who knows what else I haven’t found yet. Your videos help.

[@SolitaryMaverick]

Most new homes are built cheap by hackers.

[@ivyrose779]

That’s so frustrating! Hope things are going better.

[@dennisbishop3842]

I'm old enough to have figured this out on my own, but I wish I had been able watch this 20 years ago!

[@safetyladysilver8988]

From the UK and I'm really struggling with translating these into UK English. I know what we call plasterboard you call drywall. But from that point on, no idea. We have (lightweight) filler for small holes etc. Can be premixed or powder. There are heavier duty fillers such as Toupret, more resilient used for filling holes in wood, but not epoxy. In UK we skimcoat the whole of a plasterboarded wall or ceiling, over tape which is only used for adding strength to certain joints, not sure we even have a 'mud' equivalent. Looks like runny plaster to me, although our plaster is pink. When I say WE I mean trades, I am just a DIYer and observer of experts.

[@kenbrown2808]

actually, plasterboard may not be equal to drywall. our sheetrock mud does not chemically cure like plaster does - it simply dries. our "hot mud" does have a chemical cure, but still does not have the hardness of plaster. so think of our sheetrock mud almost like a literal mud coating, and you will have the idea.

[@22ERICSHELLY]

Thanks for the video. What to do if your wall is completely finished? We have been in our house for around 23 years. We have one wall that has started getting bubbles the last few years and seems to be getting worse. Merry Christmas. May Jesus continue to bless you and your family

[@pleappleappleap]

Sometimes, if the paper is damaged, you can use oil-based primer before you spackle or mud. The mud will stick to the primer.

[@TheElectricMayhem]

I was literally filling holes today and this question came up cause I was holding both products in my hands as I’d pulled them out of my “repair” box. I chose wrong cause I didn’t watch that video. You better believe I smashed that notification button.

[@GregPaxson]

Thank you. Very helpful. I'm an experience finish carpenter trying my hand at some large mud jobs. Good explanation though I've always been confused by all the different products you find at the Depot. Thank you.

[@TheHonestCarpenter]

Glad it helped, Greg! Thanks for watching. 🙂

[@OBM21]

Very clear and concise. You answered all the questions I had!

[@donaldsincennes9673]

Great video! Friendly tips! I like to prime certain surfaces before applying mud! The reason for this is the mud you are using will adhere a lot better! Professional/expert painter in Canada Cheers! The gooseneck guy! Don

[@TheHonestCarpenter]

Good tip, Don! Thanks 🙂

[@donaldsincennes9673]

@@TheHonestCarpenter We all learn something from each other! I am a self taught professional/expert painter decorator in Canada! Also the inventor of the Richard/Hyde gooseneck flexible paint brush extension. If you get a chance it would be very much appreciated to see a educational video on this unique 3 in 1 paint brush to painters carpenters and DIYs Cheers!

[@StaceyFoxx]

Very informative, thank you!

[@willie90210]

I always appreciate your videos. Today, I have a question for you: How do you avoid mold inside your spackling paste container?

[@grepora]

I have rental properties. Tenants love to use walls for bulletin boards and put hundreds (no exaggeration) of pin holes in walls. I found light weight spackling works best to fill them. I keep a small hand sized tub. After dipping my finger in the spackling, I apply it to the hole. Then wipe the area with another finger. The hole disappears (if the walls are painted white).

[@DCgamer723]

I like the fact that this is so different than every other "pro" saying to never use spackle only use sheet rock 45 or other types of mud. Although it has its use, most people don't need it. Thank you, also, still working through all your horror movie recommendations, at was the ones I can stream.

[@TheHonestCarpenter]

Thank you, Dan! I’m glad you share my and Steve’s love of horror movies 🍿 😆🎃

[@7percentSolution]

You'll have to post the horror movie recommendations some time!

[@Asiansxsymbol]

I use the spackle at the dollar stores and it works ok. LOL

[@lynnherzeg1234]

Superb video which helped me finally understand the difference between these products. I have a question. My recently-purchased condo has no backsplash behind the bathroom sink, and the wall area about an inch above the back of the sink is getting damp and crumbling, so I need to repair an area about 2' x 2". I plan to dry it out, plaster, and apply adhesive wall tiles for the time being. In this application, which type of spackle would you recommend?

[@eastcoastpromotionalproduc1940]

This video was so helpful! I bought the right stuff and it worked perfectly! Thanks for making the video!

[@paulsccna2964]

Perfect. Easy to understand. Thanks. (some other videos, are driving me crazy explaining this...)

[@emiliaescobar7652]

Another great video, Love the T Shirt!!

[@brainfreeze1925]

Excellent instructional video. Thanks!

[@johnrogan9420]

The tube style dap dispenser works well on small confined areas...putty knife 🔪 creates a messy area in such places.

[@ibrocn]

Super helpful! I've wondered when to use which product. Clearly I need to get some lightweight spackle. Thank you!

[@kmad2835]

Thank you for explaining the difference in products.

[@dianedo8314]

Thanks Ethan! Moving in to new home end of this month so this will come in handy! 🤪👍

[@cattigereyes1]

I had a glass panel door window pane broken, went to the local hardware real hardware had them cut glass panes to size and used wood filler and repaired it to normal.

[@lisakayy8675]

Thank you so much! This is just what I needed!

[@SageLittleHawk]

I think caulking works good enough for nail holes as spackling dries up fast and more ends up on the floor than gets in the hole.

[@Martin-Young]

Great video Ethan! Very clear and cut! Keep up the great work!!!

[@donovanschannel9864]

Thank u so much for posting this. It made it so easy to understand

[@Cabledeluz1977]

I found your YT videos a few weeks ago! They’ve been extremely helpful! Thank you so much!

[@TheHonestCarpenter]

Thanks for watching, Fraggle! 😄

[@delfindiaz8069]

Very helpful video thank you.

[@McP1mpin]

Ive been using standard spackle my whole life but recently switched to lightweight spackle because I thought it was superior. It was an absolute disaster. I wouldn't use it for anything bigger than a nail hole. When I went to go sand it it was coming off in chunks. It was still wet and pliable weeks later. I have no idea what happened but I had to remove it all and much of the drywall paper too. Now I have to seal it all and use regular spackle again.

[@jasonb7394]

Dude! I tried lightweight spackle once and it was awful. It wouldn’t stick in the hole. It was rolling around the wall in a wad under the knife. Crumbling onto the floor too…

[@jbwjr54]

Always great info!