DON'T USE SUPER GLUE! Try This Instead..(Epoxy Adhesive/5-Minute Epoxy/Epoxy Glue)

[@TheHonestCarpenter]

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[@WillN2Go1]

I built a couple of wood core (red cedar strip) kayaks, used a lot of epoxy. Incredibly versatile and strong bonds. A couple of tricks. First as you use the small epoxy kits, the 5 minute stuff, you might want to step up to West Systems or Raka (there's one other that's also good). These epoxies are liquids made to go on thin. You thicken epoxy for different uses. You add powders to the epoxies to thicken them. The Heavy thickeners are used to mount hardware, like boat cleats, and the super light fluffy stuff for 'fairing' this is when you need to fill a depression in the surface of your boat. It's not very strong and it sands more easily. For the 5 minute epoxies here's a trick. Just use flour, I used instant pancake mix, these are basically inert and mixed in with the epoxy they work exactly like the WestSystems fillers. Zero issues of rotting, absorbing water.... Now when you need something to set up quick - that 5 minutes. Then mix it and leave it in a clump and it'll 'go off' at the predicted time. If you use a filler and you're in a hurry, let it sit for part of the time and then mix the filler. If you want to delay the setting time then mix the filler as soon as you mix the two parts and it will delay it. If you mix a big batch and leave it in a cup it goes off much more quickly than if you spread it or put it into multiple cups. Epoxy smells 'nutty', but is actually carcinogenic. The resin part is 90% BP-A the plastic that acts like estrogen and causes cancer. Once it's set, it's inert. It used to be recommended for baby furniture and food surfaces - but not for at least ten years. (Keep this in mind about all plastic. I think the only standard for 'Nalgene' is to say it's safe - I only drink out of stainless steel. If I get say a Smart Water Bottle to refill while traveling, as soon as it gets a bit worn or creased I get rid of it.) I learned to always wear latex or nitrile gloves, long sleeves and a respirator - but I was working with large volumes. You could do the whole container of 5 minute and you'll be okay. Wear the gloves though, it's sticky and difficult to get off your skin. Wet - it can itch and cause a rash, and one guy I heard about didn't wear a mask as he went through a boat building training course - he got certified but couldn't work anywhere near epoxy any more. Don't sand partially set epoxy -this seems to be the current big warning. I guess the dust from this would be the most toxic. And once it's set, and you sand it wear a respirator. You would never say, "Hey got any extra birth control pills? give me a random number of them to swallow." To clean up epoxy just use vinegar. That hook on the board? I'd rough up the back of the hardware, and the board. Because the board has a small area for the epoxy, I'd lay down some blue masking tape, cut out the shape of the hook backing and then I'd carve, drill a bit the wood. I'd also use thickened epoxy if I had a bunch of these to glue. (I've seen expensive sailboats being repaired and it was clear that the vinylester (similar to epoxy) was not properly prepared between coats - as they scraped it came off in layers. Epoxy done right will never ever do this. To bond two hulls together I had to epoxy a strip of fiberglass. To make this neat, I'd run a line of blue tape above and below the seam, lay down the glass strip overlapping onto the blue tape, then when it's soft but not set I cut along the edge of the blue tape then pull up the blue tape taking the rough edge of the glass. So plan to mask for drips instead of trying to clean it up later, run a sharp blade along the edge and pull the tape up when it's still soft. And as epoxies go usually those 5 minute ones are considered second rate - but they're still plenty good for whatever you use them for. I use them. Hope this helps.

[@davidjennings6937]

I started using epoxy years ago when I was making golf clubs as a hobby. I realized then that it fit so many home repairs/projects and have used it ever since.

[@eyedrz]

Great video. Been restoring houses, furniture and cars for over 40 years. I love this stuff so much, I buy it by the gallon and never argue the price. $50 of epoxy has saved me thousands of dollars in repairs. Many times.

[@AereForst]

What exactly do you buy?

[@ke5943]

I've got to say, this channel is just superb. You explain things with such clarity and just the right amount of detail without trading economy for minutia. Although there's a place for it, IMO too many channels focus on stuff 90% of people will never use. Ive been renovating my house for the past few months and repeatedly your channel has been so insightful (I particularly liked your videos on screws and essential power tools). You clearly know your stuff but what is really impressive is your ability to communicate this knowledge over to others. As a teacher myself, I know this isn't nearly as easy as it looks. It just looks effortless when someone has the talent for it.

[@TonyMontgomery18]

Q-tips are handy mixers/applicators for small repairs: I cut one end off with scissors or wire cutters, and use the stick to mix the epoxy, and then use either that same stick to apply, or get another q-tip and use the cotton, sort of a tiny paintbrush to apply the epoxy.

[@ef2b]

JB makes many things, one of which is JB Kwik Weld. JB Kwik is magic goo. I use it for more than metal. I can build it up, then file or grind it to shape. One thing people don't seem to know is that superglue may be strong in some applications, but it shatters and fails when hit sharply. This can actually be useful. Sometimes, I will superglue a wood stop or guide onto something and then, when done, smack it sharply with a hammer to take it off. Be aware that this can rip out a few fibers and can leave residue behind. As long as we're talking about superpowers, like epoxy, it's worth knowing about bicycle tire inner tubes. Cut one open and cut out the stem, then split it along its length and you have a long rubber strip that can be wrapped around odd shaped things to hold them together while glue dries. With inner tubes, you can clamp things that are unclampable otherwise and, with each wrap, you get more pressure (so be careful). Inner tubes can react with finishes especially if glue squeeze-out gets under the rubber. Often, I split the tube open, then split it along its length so that I get two strands of rubber. Otherwise, the strap can be too strong.

[@gregfroehlich4442]

I call bike inner tubes the poor person’s bungee cord. Mountain bike ones are my first choice. Go to any bike shop if you don’t have your own.

[@philippebleau4809]

Used epoxy to repair an expensive motorcycle fairing. You are an excellent communicator, M. James, BTW.

[@TheHonestCarpenter]

Thank you, Philippe! Repairs like that are exactly where epoxy becomes almost invaluable. I've save a few things for clients that they thought was lost for good--heirloom type stuff. I appreciate you supporting the channel!

[@cobuck4007]

Ooh. Thanks for the idea. I was about to throw away my broken fairing.

[@needaman66]

Simp lol

[@danielmiller2977]

This was a great video! I would just like to add a quick bit of valuable information. Epoxy does indeed adhere maybe the largest variety of materials, however, in order for it to perform best on smooth non porous materials like metal and glass, it needs tooth. The surface should be sanded to create a slightly rough surface for it to perform at its best.

[@Bob_Adkins]

Good point. Slow curing epoxies need little tooth, but the quick curing varieties like 5, 15, and 30-minute epoxies should be prepped with rough sandpaper.

[@goodun2974]

@@Bob_Adkins , also, 5-minute epoxies don't work all that well on wood (or other porous or fibrous materials) because they set so quickly that the epoxy doesn't really get a chance to "wet" to the wood and soak into the wood fibers a little bit.

[@Quijanos1]

Fantastic! A bit of sanding is good to know prior to utilizing the epoxy.

[@udalimb384]

What about temperature? I need to glue a plastic edge back onto a glass frig shelf.

[@EyeSeeDeadPeople44]

Anyone have any experience with plastic that always has pressure on it...I broke the plastic piece on my tripod for my phone (it's the part that holds my phone,so it has pressure when it's squeezing my phone to hold it.would this one work or does anyone know one that would work great for that?

[@sundrapoonan6724]

You're spot on with your assessment of how good 5 minute epoxy is. Thank you for all the awesome videos you make, I really like your straight forward no nonsense communication style, and your excellent advice on so many topics, is much appreciated.

[@rg3291]

I used jb weld to repair a broken part on my bandsaw. Years later it's still holding. I love the stuff!

[@Jayyy6981]

He doesn’t mention anything about metal to glass or glass to metal I have an iPhone X and I was cleaning off the screen so I can apply my screen protector I used alcohol and it might’ve gotten to the side of the phone and now the phone is starting to bulge up or stick up where the power button is I thought it was the battery bulging but there seem to be no pressure on the side where the buttons are for the Valium I was wondering if I could apply a little bit to the side and press it down with a little weight will it possibly bond

[@druegillis1744]

Sometimes we get set in our ways, I know I do. Using super glue for years, but I forgot about epoxy. I will start using epoxy now that I saw your video. I am 72, still the old dog learning new tricks! Keep those videos coming. Great job.

[@gwick55]

You are doing just what I have done for years, which means that I must have been on the right track all along. Thank you.

[@joevaldivia6733]

I’ve been a woodworker for 55 years and you always have good information about woodworking. Keep up the work 👍

[@TheHonestCarpenter]

Thank you, Joe!

[@Syncopator]

I've long known about epoxy and how it's often a better choice for the job than superglue-- but what I didn't know was about the PSI ratings and that there were many variations that are optimized for particular materials-- thanks for the tips, this will come in handy. I've found a few times that using epoxy to fix something broken, that if it breaks again it doesn't break at the same point-- the bond holds so well that it breaks somewhere else instead.

[@richardstrada212]

I have been using this product for years for fixing everything from my grandchildrens' toys to my broken eye glass frames. They are my go to item!

[@russellmartin8496]

Excellent informational video! I've been using epoxies for many years. I once repaired a broken valve cover bolt tab on a Subaru with JBweld and became a believer in the strength of industrial adhesives!

[@ehRalph]

I did a similar thing on an old Buick slant 6 with 22 bullet shell brass and jb weld

[@randywilliams847]

Great channel. I was a carpenter who raised my five children with my tools and my skill. Never made much money until I became a Realtor. My construction knowledge was invaluable. I watch your videos for entertainment. You do a very good job explaining the thousand things we had to figure out the hard way. Thanks.

[@bagery]

I've had situations where this would be suggested or where it was the best fix for a job, then I would get to reading the instructions and decide it is too much effort. You make it look easy. Thank-you!

[@ethelryan257]

I've worked with epoxies for decades and you're not entirely wrong. They work better than practically everything else...BUT... You must read and follow the directions to the letter. Most people can't be bothered and that just won't work with two-component compounds.

[@goodun2974]

@@ethelryan257 , prior cleaning, preparation, and fitting of surfaces to be glued isn't just everything, it's *the only thing*.

[@johnmusgrave3179]

I was introduced to two part epoxy adhesive almost 50 years ago at the start of my engineering apprenticeship. The brand name then was Araldite which is still sold today. It wasn't 5-minute but nobody cared. It came in 2 tubes rather than the double barrelled syringe in your video but that was (and still is) fine too. It worked extremely well and that is all I care about and I have used it for everything except wood joints ever since.

[@bobbray9666]

Both epoxy and CA glue have their place in the shop. I use CA glue for joining smaller wood pieces together before pin nailing. With an activator spray, the CA cures immediately. Epoxy is great for filling large voids in wood where a smooth flat surface matters.

[@visakhsethu]

The way you speak is very soothing, and after listening to you speak for 1 minute, I subscribed.. Kudos!!

[@JamieE76]

I've never used epoxy, but I'll try that next time I need to glue something. Thanks! :)

[@DianneCarrington]

I tried epoxy glues 20 years ago and it was a messy disaster. Since them I have relied on Super Glues with all their limitations. I am now confident to try epoxy again. You explain things (not just this glue video) with such clarity and your pacing gives time for info to sink in before you start on the next point

[@woodworksbygrampies1284]

I agree but even still, I'll sometimes watch a second or third time just to let everything really sink in.

[@carolramsey8457]

Remember the strongest by far are the slow setting ones so if you want a really strong job use the slow ones and leave them overnight or 24 hours

[@JonatasAdoM]

And check brands. Some aren't as strong as others.

[@fuzzfacelogic789]

In my experience the 5 minute epoxies don't set hard enough.

[@davidlang4442]

I avoid those 5 min epoxies. Never got the strength advertised. Used that stuff to glue on some magnets to some solar lights. Very small lights made of plastic except for the metal bracket that the magnets were glued to. Cleaned with alcohol after lightly sanded. Still failed. Best results with the standard hardining time ones. use the fast ones to fill gaps, holes but never on things that need to hold together.

[@joesocial]

Spot on...I almost never use SuperGlue for anything but light plastic on plastic. Great as always.

[@chipbaker2025]

When using epoxy on tough surfaces that need to be held in place while the epoxy sets, I use a dab of superglue and a sprinkling of baking powder for instant hold in place. It's not a very strong bond, but does a great job keeping everything aligned.

[@donnalongo1848]

Can you explain a bit more, exactly where are you putting the baking powder, are you sprinkling it on what you're adhering and then putting the glue over it, maybe glue first then the baking powder or do you mix them first, I'm very intrigued by this and I'd like to know more if you wouldn't mind, I am noticing this is from a year ago so you may never see this. 🙂

[@TaraSueSalusso]

I’ve used apoxy resin as an artist to clearcoat paintings but I haven’t used it as an glue. This is a great solution for what my upcoming project is. Thank you so much for this recommendation.

[@QuantumMechanic_88]

Another awesome video . JMO - Mix pre - stained sawdust with epoxy and have the wood filler from heck . Thanks for another smash hit video . All the best .

[@TheHonestCarpenter]

Great point, Quantum! I've watched the flooring guys mix up filler with wood glue and ultra-fine dust from the drum sander bag...but your way would create the ultimate indestructible wood filler! 😄

[@WillN2Go1]

I always use the lightest color pine sawdust as it gets darker when wet and remains darker.

[@santiago.correamejia2293]

Thanks! honest carpenter for taking many newcommers, somewhat familiarized diyers, and even self taught handymen, trough a kind of progressive teaching method from the simplest things and then moving up, I feel like going to school ( a GOOD one that is!), and gently growing in knowledge towards more complex stuff. You take out the mistery part out of the lingo, and brings it out to a more common knowledge level so we can understand more about the pro's like you ! Keep the fantastic work. Reporting all the way down southamerica!

[@woodworksbygrampies1284]

100% agree

[@woodworksbygrampies1284]

I always enjoy watching your videos because even though the info is not new to me, I know I'm going to learn something new. In this case it's so simple and I've overlooked it all my life. I NEVER noticed that the packaging works as the mixing tray, WOW!!! Keep up the good work.

[@TheHonestCarpenter]

Thank you, Woodworks! I appreciate the positive feedback 🙂

[@autodidact537]

@@TheHonestCarpenter The only thing that you missed is that most epoxy adhesives are not food safe.

[@markoshun]

Excellent. I recently joined two pieces of plastic floor trim and went with super glue because there was no way to clamp and very little surface area on ends for positioning. Then I glued a couple wood strips to the backside to reinforce. I should’ve used epoxy for the reinforcement. Next time I’ll know better.

[@mikegilbert8545]

I find it best to lay down some painters tape and mix the epoxy directly on the tape. You just peel up the tape and toss it when your done.

[@ehRalph]

I use a scrap of cardboard, usually clamped down to the bench

[@arthurrsaker8893]

Simply brilliant, brilliantly simple. Thank you Mike

[@oneeyedphotographer]

I like that, Mike.

[@rolandocuevas4563]

Very useful indeed. Tnxs

[@RondeLeeuw]

Thank you for this great yet simple suggestion! I would use a piece of scrap plastic or cardboard, but tape can prevent the glue from dropping due to hazards like wind and animals. And you can put the glue on a slope, or upside down if need be.

[@choimdachoim9491]

I recently removed a 4' X 8' sheet of drywall that was covered with un-matchable wall-paper, tore out the wall and installed a pocket-door then re-installed the drywall using that larger quantity-size epoxy you showed. I mixed the entire bottles with a long-handled paint-brush and covered the metal and wood studs, pressed the drywall into place and didn't have to put screws through the wallpaper. The drywall had originally been installed with small, smooth staples so levering it off from it's backside was easy and non-damaging. Today I'm installing new drywall on the other side of the pocket door the same way because it's quick and there's no patching over screws to do. Later in this bathroom remodel I'm using the small hypodermic style epoxy you showed to install small 3/8" color-dot tiles at the junctions of 18" X 18" porcelain floor-tile. I plan to put a dab of grout at each junction, press a tile-spacer in it, let it set up and then glue the dots which puts them level with the tile-top. Then grout like usual which will be more secure than just pressing the dots into wet grout. The super-glue that comes with a separate spray-hardener is what I'm using on the trim around the windows because it's almost instantaneous grab and set. Both types of adhesive have their best uses. The epoxy allows me a little time to adjust the color-dots with tweezers to get them aligned perfectly and the Super-glue instantly holds the trim together.

[@jaycullen9901]

It might be good to mention how, when replacing the cap, if any hardener touches the resin tube/syringe the entire resin tube will be wasted (hardened) when you try to use the epoxy for the next repair. I find dual syringes are too prone for this malfunction to happen so I always buy epoxy in separated tubes.

[@dfcbman]

Thanks for the heads up. Epoxy is not cheap

[@eltronics]

I agree and have experienced everything you said. Take note Honest Carpenter.

[@riazhassan6570]

Yes. Those dual tubes often end with one-time use. Better to buy them as separate tubes

[@bigbong8165]

@@dfcbman I have cheap ones if needed, but they are made in China

[@clancambo5297]

Always carefully clean both nozzles on the dual syringe adhesives and they will last forever.

[@ehudgavron9086]

You're the man. Thank you again! No more CA glue will be used here. I've had an epoxy discomfort since I was a kid (wait, did I mix the right amounts?) but your video cured that.

[@ItsAsparageese]

> cured BA-DUM TSSS! I guess you could say that, now ... you're all _set_ :P

[@bigchiponmyshoulder7573]

Stick with it

[@contessa.adella]

I love epoxy resin. Building models years ago, epoxy was the go to strong glue, especially for wood to metal. Then along came “Super Glue 3” from Loctite, it was a game changer, but we soon found the joints were brittle when used for structural joints in flying models, and came apart when left in water for any length of time (so not for the dishwasher on repaired cups). One of the strongest epoxies off the shelf is the slow set ‘Araldite’. It is stronger than the five minute if you can set up the joint and leave it to cure overnight. I also found the graphite coloured JB Weld available in tubes, to set rock hard too!

[@MrGsteele]

Cyanoacrylate bonding agents are not certified for use on food-touching items. You might repair cup handles, for example but plates, cup rims, etc. are off limits.

[@spanishtreasure9551]

yep the grey jb weld regular is best , it may be slow curing but superstrong

[@timsatch9198]

Totally agree with everything, excellent presentation. When you get used to cure times, you can be more selective with cure times that fit you purpose. 5 minutes is great but sometimes longer cure times can be helpful. Super Glue has it's uses, but they are actually very limited. I have had great success reducing the size if 'O' ring seals by cutting out a section and gluing the ends together. Had that work upto 3000 psi. Contact addisive is also very useful. Even use it for clothing repairs. Look forward to watching more of your videos.

[@wanderingranger4208]

100% agree, my dad never said “I’ll superglue it” he always went for araldite and that was back in the days before they came in the mixing syringe.

[@dfcbman]

OK, you had me at "my dad". In younger days, my dad did his best to fix stuff around the house. Then we called the necessary repairman. I am still learning. My dad was awesome as a father. He taught us love...

[@beverleythomas5708]

I remember growing up we always had the two tube pack of Devcon Plastic Steel in the house. That got used to repair the car bumper among other things. There was also another brand of epoxy called Araldite that we got here as well. It was used to repair a broken crock pot cover, two broken vases, and many other household items. Also the smell you get when mixing the two parts of the epoxy is exactly what green papaya smells like. 😊

[@TonyMontgomery18]

Embed things in the epoxy for extra strength. I’ve used little pieces cloth, wire, metal or plastic window screen is perfect, and even a bit of paper towel can work wonders. In addition to whatever strength the material provides (none for paper towel), simply by breaking up the continuous epoxy mass and giving it sort of a lattice structure, it just seems to help repairs hold up that otherwise would rip the epoxy in half (like rebar in concrete). For ex I epoxied a big plastic trash can with a 1” crack in the bottom, it’s being used as a rain barrel, so that’s a huge amount of weight on it. The first repair attempt with JB Weld clear instantly split in half along the crack. Then I redid it exactly the same with a little scrap of screen encased in the epoxy, and it’s been holding rainwater for a couple years now. Amazing. Take epoxy to the next level 😁

[@spudpud-T67]

You can look at fiberglass and epoxy for good reinforcement.

[@allisonih1548]

Sharing a tip, I have used for 38 yrs as a restorer of furniture for fire & water damages. Epoxy has been my friend for onsite repairs for years. I purchase, a small paper palette from an art site 9"x12" and a metal palette knife, I own 3 different sizes ( they come in all shapes, sizes & lengths ) they are perfect for mixing the glue (2) parts & excellent for the application of the glue ( to smooth or get into a tight space (because the artist palette knives have some flex in them ). The palette knife is easily cleaned off with an xacto knife, after the epoxy has set up or a rag with a little lacquer thinner, before the glue sets up. I use the disposable paper palettes for the larger mixing surface & when large amounts of the glue is needed (most paper palettes have paper sheets, that is waxed on one side and plain paper on the other side, I always mix on the paper side.)

[@jaypowell0185]

Another great video. I think a lot of people became familiar with Epoxy if they watch forged in fire. They use this stuff all the time. Also great tip about taping the paint brush bristles together.

[@porker5749]

Totally agree. I tried to repair a broken garden statue for a customer over the winter. I first tried PL Construction adhesive. Didn't work. Then I tried Super Glue. Same...didn't work. Lastly I tried JB Weld 5 minute epoxy, worked like a charm and my customer was very happy!

[@629Justme]

One additional comment, the reason why two clear chemicals turn murky is because its a way to determine if the epoxy was mixed correctly. Epoxy has a need to be mixed thoroughly in order for it to achieve maximum bond. When its not mixed correctly it might as well still be in the tube. So a way to tell if its mixed well enough is to see if its "murky" throughout. Some epoxies are two entirely different colors - white and black - for example so you can tell its thoroughly mixed when it turns grey. I like epoxy much also, but crazy glue has a unique diy function when mixed with baking soda. When you do so and carefully you make a material that's as hard as rock but since it came from the crazy glue you have made a fit to any shape or dimensions that you crazy glue in the first place. I have recently become aware of its molding potential and it looks really promising.

[@alwayssearching1882]

I was going to superglue my cracked dehumidifier drain pan where the hose connects. It has a clean crack from over torquing the hose on. This makes much more sense. Thanks, I'm subscribing.

[@johnslaughter5475]

When I use CA it is for something that needs doing right there and that I can keep away from my fingers. The thing I've noticed is that once a tube is opened, no matter how ell you seal it, it's a one use product. That makes it many many times more expensive than it was at the store. But, there is a use that some wood turners use it for. It is a very good finish. I use it when turning pen barrels. The epoxy glue has a very long shelf life. As long as you properly seal the ends, without cross contamination, it will last right down to the last drop. This, in itself, makes it the far more desirable strong glue.

[@The_Fat_Turtle]

I've had no problem reusing little bottles of CA glue, just don't tighten down the cap all the way. My tip is to tighten it all the way, but then back it off as slightly as you can physically handle and leave the bottle upright. I can keep a small bottle of glue for about 2 weeks which lets me use it on other jobs too. I mainly use CA glue for minor guitar repairs, like soaking screw holes in thin CA glue to strengthen the threads, gluing in fretboard inlays, filling small finish dents and using the tiniest dab to hold a guitar nut in place (never had a problem breaking them loose when I need to remove them)

[@donandwendylaprise8267]

I used the JB weld for metal on my snowblower. On the discharge shaft the drive bearing key broke and the shaft turned inside the bearing wearing down the shaft so the shaft wobbled in the new bearing. Not wanting to change the shaft until after winter I centre the shaft in the bearing and filled the void with JB weld. I let it cure for 48 hours, it works like a charm there will be no problem finishing out the winter

[@JackKirbyFan]

It's also great in furniture repair at times. I sometimes fill a cavity with some wood dust (Oak dust for oak and so on). Granted, it's still epoxy with wood dust in suspension but for big knots in the wood, it works well.

[@claudiodigregorio4315]

Yes, for that. Not so good for joints in wood

[@JackKirbyFan]

@@claudiodigregorio4315 Absolutely. You know what they say - it's all about hiding your mistakes :)

[@grantliddiard7742]

Another great video mate. I had several CA glued tubes come loose whilst pen turning. Switch over to 5 min epoxy about 18 months ago and haven’t had a problem. Cheers from Down Under.

[@paulkolodner2445]

I've being using specialty and consumer epoxies for decades in the lab. There are a few things I would add to this presentation: 1. I keep track of which products are good for which surfaces. Plastics are particularly touchy. 2. I store all my adhesives in a cold room. They degrade more slowly that way. 3. Surfaces need to be clean for best adhesion. Sometimes, roughening is helpful. 4. If you are going to bond different materials (like metal to plastic) and the assembly will be subject to temperature variations, see if you can find a urethane adhesive. The cured adhesive remains compliant and takes up the strain caused by differential expansion of the two materials. 5. Typically, the thinner the epoxy layer, the better the adhesion.

[@bullrun44]

Excellent and informative video. I was not aware of this one. I will pick up a few of these items when I am back in ‘Murica. some of the local stuff here is good but I can’t find anything with the dual plunger. I’ll get the dual plunger and I’ll be careful when storing it as one of your comment said that it’s not good to cross-contaminate the chemicals when putting it away. Thank you again for sharing.

[@tonywharton5220]

Hi there. I always use Zap 5 minute epoxy 1500psi or Zap 30 minute epoxy 2500psi. Amazing value for money. I do still use super glue but not very often. Epoxy glue has such a better shelf life, lasting years.

[@TheHonestCarpenter]

Thank you, Tony! I hadn't even heard of Zap...I'm going to check it out!

[@David-hm9ic]

@@TheHonestCarpenter If I'm not using WEST Epoxy, Zap is my go-to!

[@josephj6521]

I’ve used liquid nails I had lying around to glue plastic to metal. Extremely tough stuff. 😉 Thanks for a great video. 👍

[@Ressy66]

fantastic stuff, also very handy for potting small electrical components that may risk water ingress, and for fixing those small external solar lights - but make sure you use the clear epoxy in that case or you just made your solar light think its permanently overcast :)

[@The_Fat_Turtle]

One of the bigger guitar/bass pickup companies on the planet, EMG, covers their active pickup circuit in epoxy so people can't steal their design. It started with the owner making them by hand, all the way up to today when they are pumping these things out from a factory.

[@bernym4047]

Great video. Thanks. Tip to make sure you get equal amounts of glue and hardener from twin dispenser: With a new dispenser, stand the dispenser upright with the plunger at the top and the nozzles at the bottom. This is best done by standing in an old glass jar. Also, place the jar in a warm -place which makes the glue easier to mix & flow easier. This makes any bubbles float upward towards the plunger and away from the nozzles. Then when you uncap the nozzles & press the plunger, both nozzles immediately start to dispense the same amount of glue as there will be no bubbles to clear from either nozzle. Furthermore, having finished dispensing glue & before re-capping, invert the dispenser and draw the plungers back a little to suck in a little air into both nozzles so that you don't get a blob of waste glue clogging up the nozzles. Now re-cap and store in the glass jar again, nozzle end downward. The newly introduced bubbles will again float back up to the plunger end.

[@jakemanchester5139]

KZbinr "Project Farm" does a great test on epoxies.

[@MiG9D]

Project Farm is my go to channel before I buy any of my tools.

[@carlvaz]

This video is a great help. I have been purchasing superglue in very small containers, as I need this only infrequently. I may use a few drops and a month later the rest of it has been inaccessible due to hardness around the spout. With the Epoxy Adhesive this problem would be eliminated.

[@gregghernandez2714]

I love this stuff! A real go to product for woodworkers. I tend to use the JB Weld Epoxy putty stuff lately for two specific reasons: Once it cures it is as strong as steel, and you can even drill or tap the stuff! Very handy. Great video, thanks!

[@michaelbradford4444]

Being a retired framer who now has time to do woodwork at a different level I've been hearing a lot about epoxy and I've never really associated with wood projects and that also applies to CA glue which I'm going to try both of them out more often and see how they work out for me. Been a fan of your channel from the beginning and I don't always agree with you but you think like us old school carpenters and I respect that.

[@chrisgraham2904]

Carpenters, cabinet makers and framers are usually dealing with much larger surfaces to be joined, where cyanoacrylate adhesives or epoxies are not practical or economical.

[@michaelbradford4444]

@@chrisgraham2904 Liquid Nail is a good Go To for any framer. Not only for sub-floor but also a great fire starter on a cold morning on the job site !

[@chrisgraham2904]

@@michaelbradford4444 I've heard a lot of people swearing by Liquid Nails, but I used it to adhere some exterior wood panels about 25 years ago and they popped after the first winter, so I never used it again. LePage PL9000 has been my go-to for panels, sub-floors, decks and mortorless retaining wall stone. It is petroleum based, so I'm sure it would be a good fire starter also. lol

[@michaelbradford4444]

@@chrisgraham2904 Get the one that says Subfloor on it. I've only seen the big tubes of it and as long as it's warm outside it's what it claims to be , Liquid Nail !

[@chrisgraham2904]

@@michaelbradford4444 I'll give it another chance. Formulation may have changed over they years also. lol

[@antonrekun]

This channel needs waaay more subscribers! Thanks for all the great videos man!

[@andrewk-majordochomerepair6014]

For general material items, epoxy is great. The only things for which I use CA glue are trim molding edges, small wood parts, or to seal wood/ply end grain. Otherwise epoxy is the wat to go as a chemically derived mechanical fastener. Rather than the plunger double tubes, I'd recommend the JB Weld bottle kit. You get a lot more bang for your buck and it essentially doesn't ever go bad, so you'll have plenty for many projects. I've use it to bond magnets to wood, rubberized corking to my vise wood "plate", to reinforce plastic fasteners in cheap furniture, to reinforce screws in wood that may be under increased stresses, as a gap/hole filler...

[@DeereX748]

Another note to new users. Epoxy has an exothermal reaction as it sets, it heats up. keep this in mind if you are holding finger pressure on small objects you glue together, the heat may become uncomfortably hot.

[@analog_guy]

Regarding the exothermic reaction, small amounts of epoxy can dissipate the heat fairly readily, so small amounts don't usually rise in temperature very much, and users may not notice it is exothermic at all. Not so with large amounts! We used epoxy at my place of work. At one time, the epoxy was over-ordered, and there was about five gallons for which the use-by date was exceeded, so the quality folks did not allow it to be used in product. The disposal costs for liquid chemicals are quite high, but solids could be simply put in the trash. So, the EH&S (environmental health and safety) folks suggested that the two parts be mixed so the epoxy would set up hard. It was really a highlight of the day to see those chagrined EH&S folks pushing a wheeled cart down the hallway, trying to get a skinky, fuming, bubbling five-gallon can of the stuff, surrounded by ice, outside the building before it became necessary to evacuate the building due to the noxious fumes! 😂

[@dollslifefiction3681]

Thank you for this video. I have been looking for a good way to glue metal ( ideally without having to use a soldering iron as I am making miniatures) and this video was juste what I needed.

[@coburn_karma]

Gorilla Glue sets hard, but the tensile strength is weak. JB weld epoxy holds much better. Harbour Freight's brand does well also.

[@bigbong8165]

yes very good I also have better glue than yours

[@iamthatiam7220]

I went through many videos and at last you were the winner thank you for your INTEGRITY

[@brendaswann7292]

Great lesson. I have used Weld Bond to fix some decorative pig iron items. I swear by Epoxies for when it really matters. 👍🏼🇨🇦👌🏽

[@LarryPerna-w8e]

5 Minute Devcon epoxy is my favorite. I am pretty sure I have every brand you showed in my shop, right now.

[@mos8541]

2 part epoxy is all I EVER use, diff set times and diff cure times, i even repair my tool bags etc. with it. FYI the average i come across is around 3k PSI for your 5 min household stuff, and the fast set WITH the built in mixing nozzle can set in less than 30 secs.

[@HJS3cdc]

Excellent explaination. I use epoxy a lot for general purpose. With your information I even more convinced to use it more frequently than the super glue, that is expensive and mostly for one time use only.

[@rice0009]

I tend to use Super Glue as a quick clamp for odd shaped pieces in wood working. Tite Bond just doesn't setup quickly, but a dab or two of CA will help hold parts together while you move on to the next sub-assembly.

[@russmartin4189]

I made some metal rods to which I needed to attach wood knobs. I tried CA glue, but it didn't hold that well. Then I went to 5 minute epoxy, and the knobs are welded to the metal rod. I am a believer in 5 minute epoxy. Also, once it sets up, it can be drilled and screws inserted into it. So, you can fill a void in wood, let it set, then do what you have to do. For big voids, you might want to try Total Boat, which is used for river tables, etc.

[@fredford7642]

Great video! The Loctite, and JB weld products are great. I have been using them for years.

[@Quijanos1]

I have heard about epoxy in the past. But I haven't really considered using it before. With this video, especially the gap filler statement you made, I'm sold. Sold. Going to start using this from now on. Thanks a bunch. This video was informative and superlatively set up in the time frame provided. Take care and I look forward to listening and learning from you my friend.

[@tanyad7894]

Thank you for that! I was wondering how I might be able to secure new fence posts on top of a concrete wall - I'll need more than a small tube, but I didn't think of epoxy as an adhesive before. I used an epoxy finish for my countertop last year! I'm still not sure how the original fence was placed, or whether I'll need to drill holes in the concrete for metal post holders, but at least that's one less unknown.

[@TheHonestCarpenter]

Hey Tanya! As you said, you might need some anchor hardware for your posts--possibly simpson buckets, or something that gets embedded in the concrete wall. But, there are definitely construction grade epoxies that would help! They often come in tubes, and have longer curing times. But they're strong enough for commercial and industrial applications!

[@blackfordoblique1965]

Thank you. I use epoxy to glue my postal carrier to my mail box which gets me into lots of trouble. Technically I'm not even supposed to be watching videos like this but it has such a good production value...

[@mandobob]

I use disposable "Dixi" type of paper cups for mixing. I also like to use wooden pop-sickle sticks for mixing and application. Both are very cheap.

[@lshs-ll5wd]

I have always used super glue, often with trouble not sticking. Thanks, I will buy & try some epoxy glue this week. Big fan of the show.

[@bengoolie5197]

I can still hear Paul Harvey advertising for J-B Weld on his radio show. AHHH, memories.

[@samuelkeystone]

And now page two,

[@nathanhenry4214]

I really miss that man.

[@cutt1293]

I miss hearing that man on the radio. When I first started working 30+ years ago, I would listen to "The rest of the Story", loved hearing that.

[@patrickdaly5068]

That was how I first heard of JB Weld! He used to give the testimonial from the guy who accidentally blew a hole in the floor of his truck with a hunting gun (shotgun?) while on a hunting trip. The guy said he cut a round piece out of a drink can and glued it to the floor with JB!

[@mdeamicis]

True American icon and national treasure. Look up some of mike rows stuff. He's the new Paul Harvey.

[@bravobravoh1344]

I used JB Weld on a pinched off Air condition line for the rear portion of a van so that I could just have the front portion of the AC working in the vehicle. It worked fine and never once did it leak any refrigerant.

[@sixshooter3313]

I build large Bowie and Dagger style knives and use epoxy along with brass studs for all my knife handles.

[@WVRetreat]

Great video. It should also be mentioned that the setup time on the epoxy and temperature will make a difference on the flexibility of the epoxy. For the best results, use the longest cure time epoxy you can manage. You will get better results with 30-minute epoxy than 5-minute epoxy. 5-minute can be more brittle than 30-minute.

[@sunpointstudio4472]

I use epoxy a lot for my projects if I want the most strength and a permanent bond. I'm not a fan of the dual tube plunger dispensers but prefer separate tubes. I also like contact adhesive for a lot of work.

[@spirit3soul]

You're right, the dual plunger is such a waste (never seems to come out accurately) - Only use separate tubes, much better control.

[@patrickfreeman8816]

Great info! Another thing - epoxy has better shear strength than superglue. Shear is pulling the joined pieces sideways along each other: hold one hand out palm up, lay the other hand on top, palm down. Now slide your hands apart sliding your palms across each other. This is shear.

[@joeteejoetee]

I think the most important part of using Epoxy, is properly mixing the Epoxy with a focus on INCORPORATING all of the part A/B surface area stuck to the plate or cup that is used to mix on or inside of. Note: Un-mixed part A/B will never CURE SOLID and is the primary reason for Epoxy complaints. Don't use Round nosed popsicle-sticks because they do not scrape the Parts' A&B from flat surfaces - cut them flat faced like a chisel with scissors first. Scrape the sides and bottom of a mixing cup, or plane the flat paper plate you are mixing on to get every single drop into the whole. After you think it is mixed, consider mixing for 30 more seconds before applying. If you don't have time then you should use a 12 minute epoxy so you have time to properly mix, apply the Epoxy, and clamp the joints. Secondary in importance is the 50/50 part: It will cure solid IF it is mixed COMPLETELY. When epoxy does not cure it's because it was not COMPLETELY mixed beforehand. 45/55 / 55/45 will cure A-OK, but small streaks of 80-100% part A or B will never, EVER, cure, and be sticky and weak FOREVER. Note: Epoxy does not "Dry" like rubber cement does --> Epoxy only Cures or Hardens, so stop using the words DRY/Dried when talking about Epoxy. P.S. Don't get Epoxy A/B on your skin, no matter how many seasons of Epoxy wet fingers/hands you've seen on Forged-In-Fire!

[@joannamartin1003]

I just started using it in my woodworking. It’s fantastic! Thanks for another great video.

[@MrPhil1st]

I use slow cure epoxy with mica powders to fill pocket holes after screwing.

[@m3528i]

Tips for epoxy; 1. Remove epoxy from fingers and surfaces with baby wipes. Works better than anything else on earth. 2. If you want waterproof performance in epoxy, you need the kind that takes longer to cure. No 5 minute epoxy will be as waterproof as a long cure option. 3. Old gift cards work great for a mix palate and strips cut off are great for mixers and applicators. 4. A blowtorch is great for popping the surface bubbles if your making something where the epoxy is visible or being used as a puddle or a coating. BTW, If you add baking soda to super glue, it becomes a different material. Super hard, sandable and a great option for filling gaps in resins, plastics and such. Great videos man! ~Mr. scale model maker

[@chuckdearruda6271]

Epoxy is great stuff, lots of uses. I wish longer cure time epoxies were more readily available. One epoxy with 12 hour working time eventually hardens for super strength, like for hammer or lawn implement handles. Yeah, it’s runs for hours, but really soaks in for a very very strong bond.

[@TheHonestCarpenter]

Good point, Chuck. There are some industrial-grade epoxies that would probably be great for that stuff. I want to do a video on those later--they come in much larger quantities, and often require special tools to dispense. But, like you said, it's strong enough to pick up your house!

[@WillN2Go1]

To get it to soak in. First tooth - rough up the surfaces to be bonded - metal? I'd dig into it with a grinder, rough as you can make it. Second, good solvent to clean the surfaces, and third, to make the epoxy flow use a heat gun. That can make it run like water, it also speeds up the setting time... but not as much as it thins it. And usually for tools you'd use a thickener. Look up WestSystems web pages for tips on this.

[@crichtonbruce4329]

I've been an epoxy user/fan for decades. Years ago long set time epoxies were commonly sold along side 5 min. Now it's seldom seen in local hardware stores and one needs to order it. I loved having 24 hr. epoxy on hand for things with complicated assembles or multiple parts.

[@amb7412]

I've used it to glue bookends together before painting them. I plan to use to repair a pair of broken sunglasses. Thank you for clarifying all of this for me.

[@mauricemeijers7956]

Great video! Perhaps a tip that for the most of this audience is obvious, but not for me: when using epoxy (or glue) instead of fasteners also think a step ahead that you might want to separate / disassemble the parts again somewhere in the future.

[@bernieshort6311]

I agree with you 100% except on soft fixtures like leather where I prefer contact adhesive. I always have rapid epoxy adhesive at hand in my home and prefer two tubes rather than the syringe. It is something I use for all sorts around the house and workshop. I have even used it for small fibreglass repairs, I heat the two tubes in an old beaker of hot water. After about 5 to 10 minutes it is ready to use and the heat makes the adhesive much thinner and easier to spread over a mesh tape (not fibre glass) and it soaks out real good and is done and water proof in minutes. Additional layers can be built up in much the same way. First class stuff. At the moment I am using Epoxy adhesive 151 which I purchased on line. I do prefer Araldite but this one was much cheaper. Thanks for sharing.

[@guydesnoyers8417]

Understanding this stuff is a huge help. Thanks for the content!

[@jestoga]

It´s 1:23 in the mornig, I was about to go to sleep and I saw your video, just when I needed it It wil help me to assembly a plastic model whose main issue is gluing .Thanks a lot from México city

[@stevea.8816]

Super Glue and l never got along, but lt was easy so l used it but l glued my skin more than anything else, as crazy as this sounds having to mix epoxy was scary but now l will. Thanks boss.

[@johnslaughter5475]

Just remember that Super Glue, aka cyanoacrylate, was originally designed to be used by surgeons in lieu of sutures. That's why it works so well on fingers. It also seems that it has a natural affinity for skin. If skin is anywhere in the vicinity, that CA will find it.

[@williambranham6249]

Latex or vinyl gloves will solve your super glue sticking issue.

[@stevea.8816]

@@williambranham6249 Thanks, l always think l can be more careful, but the gloves are a better option.

[@williambranham6249]

@@stevea.8816 Yes, I get in a hurry or lazy and don't put the gloves on and it bites me everytime. I will say when finished I simply pull the gloves off (inside out) and the dribbled glue is now on the inside . I throw the glove in my glue box and they can be used multiple times. (Until they rip. )If gloves aren't your thing, go to Wal mart or other pharmacy and buy finger cots.

[@ItsAsparageese]

@@williambranham6249 That's brilliant, thank you for commenting this. I'm way too frugal and carry too much guilt about single-use disposable items to let myself use cheap gloves every time I need to glue something, but your idea of having a spot for them to dry and be reused for gluing again is a fantastic protip! I appreciate it!

[@nemo227]

This video is very worth watching. I have a collection of adhesives but I have sometimes used the "wrong" adhesive for a project. I intend to be more careful with the the next few projects I have lined up.

[@SeeUsFly]

In aircraft repair work, we use 2-part 3M Scotch-Weld DP 100 & 110 commonly for it's quick setting, high bonding strength, and flame retardant properties (a requirement on commercial aircraft) -- no flammable glues. At home, I've used CA and baking soda paste to do quick repairs to minor dings and dents on my wooden paramotor props.

[@richardshortman5645]

Fantastic stuff. Plus with the disposable static mixers and the gun it's so easy to use.

[@neilmackenzie4394]

I have used the Harbor Freight 2-part Epoxy for years. It usually comes in two tubes. I hate getting sticky stuff on my hands, so I took two prescription pill bottles/cups, and screwed them to a scrap of plywood. They act as holders to keep the Epoxy tubes in an upright position eliminating handling the tubes so much.

[@kkuenzel56]

Great video! I agree with you that "Super Glue" isn't always the Holy Grail of repair solutions. I do however prefer 30 minute epoxy over 5 minute. The latter tends to be more brittle when cured versus the 30 minute. Plus the added advantage of more working time. Just my 2 cents worth.

[@oneeyedphotographer]

superglue plus baking soda is a whole different kettle of fish. I used it to repair the switch on my tablesaw after smashing it. I broke it again, in a different place, and repaired it again. Ugly, but effective.

[@BeeMan689]

@@oneeyedphotographer I agree, used it as a wood filler on table saw mistakes with wood. Strong as hell.

[@TheThunderdome-il3ez]

I'm the other way around. I've only just started using super glue and used epoxy for years! A really nice trick I've found is to use scrim tape (used for plasterboard) to reinforce epoxy into a composite "fibre glass" type material.

[@bo-bx5hn]

Also good to keep in mind that they are rated in tensile strength of the material, not the bond! The bond will probably be much weaker than the rating on the bottle.

[@davidlang4442]

I find it is way weaker. Tried using it to bond scarf joints for rails on a 18 foot canoe I was building. Needed long lumber to make those. The bend was not very bad but the joints failed at the scarf. No wood came away with the epoxy. Let it cure for 2 days before install. Was supposed to have a very high strength. .I used the slow from then on. Pain in the butt, but worth the wait. No more failures. I still build epoxy cedar strip canoes to this day using slow cure epoxy on the seats, rails, decks, paddles.