Don't watch this video unless you're seriously wanting to learn Gelcoat restoration.

We use 3 Compounds to get the results we got. 3 different people use 3 different techniques but we all are going for the same results.
Herbert, Nathan and I had fun doing this, I hope you learned something but if you've got a question or comment, feel free to hit me in the comments section, I'll reply.
I have many more (300+)videos; before and after boat detailing videos including boat waxing, boat buffing...
Have a question? Comments section will be replied to.
Anyone can hit a rock with a hammer; getting the rock to look like something that belongs in museums and books... Takes a love of hitting rocks with a purpose and not just the right tools/products.
I use a DeWalt DWP849X
If I'm going for perfection in gelcoat, I don't use a ceramic (unless a very new boat) I prefer the ease, cost and reliability of Fire Glaze by RMP. Make sure you get all the oxidation out of the gelcoat, get a great finish, clean and strip the surface and then apply Fire Glaze.
www.restructuremarine.com/fir...
(tell them Lee sent you. No discount and I receive nothing but I'd like them to know 😊)
There's a "marine" version but it has the same main ingredient as Fire Glaze, just a different lubricant/carrier solution made to be environment friendly. I find it dries rather fast and as I'm in a hot climate, I use Fire Glaze instead of Restructure Marine Polish. I like their Mirasol spray for all the interior furnishings as well.
For a demo on how I apply this stuff:
• Boat wax, kind of. Fir...
(tell them Lee sent you. No discount and I receive nothing but I'd like them to know 😊)
3M Quick Connect adapter (mfg # 05752) to use with the double-sided compounding pad (3M mfg #05753) or the double-sided polishing pad (3M mfg #05754)
Foam compounding pads 3M (05737-discontinued but awesome)
or (05723-new version 😑)
3M Super-Duty (05954)
3M Perfect It Heavy Cutting Compound (36102)
Perfect-it ex ac compounds by 3M (36060)
Meguiar’s (owned by 3M) Flagship Premium Wax (M6332) Pro Polish by Shurehold or 3M's liquid wax with scotchguard.
I receive no payment for listing these items. I list them because you guys ask and I just thought I would save some time.
Wear protective gear, this stuff can cause cancer and kill you.
If you are a fan of what I do, I don't take money from manufacturing companies or product suppliers.
www.paypal.me/DDLee
Thanks for your time and support.
Lee

[@pierret8954]

I used to spend days using rubbing compound, polish, and wax. It looked amazing, for about two weeks. After I figured out wet sanding, my work last about 4 years.

[@Local_Boydidgood]

And what wax was used to get protection that lasts 4 years? Is it sold in stores or conjured up with black magic? I just haven't seen it yet. It just tells me that you never learned to use a buffer the right way. Most don't, I wasn't taught either. Glad you found a fix that worked for you. Do get back to me on that 4 year wax though. I'd love to find some. Lee

[@pierret8954]

@Local_Boydidgood I still wash, polish with maguires and wax with Collinite 885 each season but I haven't had to use compound since I wet sanded it. Could be the short season here in NH but oxidation hasn't been a problem since.

[@Local_Boydidgood]

Hi. Thanks. I'd say that exposed, the products you mentioned aren't supposed to nor have I ever seen them last that long, more like 3-8 months tops in the best "exposed" conditions. They use a natural wax. Even collinite's is just carnauba wax, a natural product, designed to breakdown in Nature. I've never heard of it lasting past a season unless garaged but even then, the natural wax breaks down. The enzymes in the wax contribute to it breaking down faster than desired for most and since polymers have hit the market, I only suggest caranuba wax for a car at a car show with lots of lights because it looks so good when done right. I'd never put it on a car I drove outside, it just lacks the strength to make the effort of applying it (again and again per year on a car) that I'd rather "Nu Finish 2000" on the paint after it was corrected because it'll last a solid year exposed without too much maintenance. A high-end ceramic would be best but expensive, Fire Glaze after that, polymer-based past that and then a natural wax like Mutan or carnauba Perhaps you aren't exposing the boat to lots of sun (stored under cover, inside or under a shade). At 47°N, we get about the same exposure to the sun here and short seasons too. If exposed but kept clean, Fire Glaze will last up to 3 years as will an Si02 ceramic. They both can be "topped off" to keep the protection going even further. I've seen 5 years with barely any signs of wear or breakdown in Fire Glaze. This was a marina boat with a covered berth so that helped. The owner washed the boat once a month and they would take trips to Alaska. I know it's difficult to hear/believe probably but I'm suggesting these to improve your results. Whatever you're dealing with to get 4 years with carnauba, use a polymer-based, nano-tech or ceramic and see if you've found your new solution. I would. If you want to double your expectations, try Flagship by Meguiar’s. If you want to never wax her again (based on the longevity you seem to find with the carnauba-based stuff) Thanks again for the reply. Lee

[@bgonz3599]

Ive heard several folks talk about cleaning the work area after the compound. What is used to clean and wouldn't that take away from the shine the compound leaves behind? Great video, incredible skilkzs insane outcome! Pow!

[@Local_Boydidgood]

Thanks. No, the cleaning reveals what's under the oils of the compound left behind after buffing. You need to have a good bond between the "wax" and the gelcoat you have. It's best when clean. Soap and water, glass cleaner, a surface prep spray, white vinagar and water.. What I use, is in the video.. Plus: kzbin.info/www/bejne/r4GsiWyHqNyjY5Yfeature=shared

[@bgonz3599]

Here's the magic question! How long will that shine last on a boat that's docked on the water, down south and up north? Thanks for the reply.

[@Local_Boydidgood]

As long as your product is maintained, this can last years without a buffer. Don't just hear that, see it for yourself. kzbin.info/www/bejne/o3rHq5SIjMSYbNEfeature=shared kzbin.info/www/bejne/pnLNq4Nuaq2Mmrsfeature=shared kzbin.info/www/bejne/enabgpKqedF3iq8feature=shared kzbin.info/www/bejne/bn3RqmZ9g9SBapYfeature=shared kzbin.info/www/bejne/boumd6Odjsd1jtEfeature=shared kzbin.info/www/bejne/j5fIkoNqd6qsb5ofeature=shared Lee

[@1spittfire]

Hello Lee. Awsome Video. I always thought that heavy cut was “ruffer” than fast cut. But apparently not. I wonder, would you use thease products and these three steps if it was a boat with white oxidated gelcot? Or is this something you use because you got a “colored” gelcot? I see you go up in speed with your machine at the end for each product. About what speed do you have on the machine and that time? Max speed? I also noticed that you do little section on the boat and make all three steps. Is this the way you normally do it or it’s just for video purposes? I maybe you did sections but only one product at a time. And when you did the whole boat a new product and so on. Many questions for a new beginner 😊. Cheers 👋

[@Local_Boydidgood]

Hi, thanks. Many questions indeed. Go slow, I'm good, you're new. I'll let you watch more of my videos so you can start to see why and how I decide things. Almost all gelcoat is the same, white or colored it oxidizes. Your job is to remind it of how it is supposed to look. I generally do an entire boat hull or topside section in one product, achieving the same results throughout before moving on. What products depends on the boat. Unlike most clearcoats, gelcoat is specific to that exact boat. You live by guidelines not rules. Lee

[@1spittfire]

@@Local_Boydidgood Thanks for Answering Lee. I have watched many of you videos, but came across this one yesterday. Im a little confused, when watching 3M website checking the products you use. They rate Heavy cut as a ruffer abrasive then Super duty. But still you use it in the order Super duty, Heavy Cut and least perfected EX AC?

[@Local_Boydidgood]

3M are morons. Don't read their labels.. There are times Super-Duty can finish clean and swirl-free. It's rare. Heavy Cut can usually take out most scratches and stains but sometimes not. If I see it struggling, I switch to Super. Perfect-it ex ac is always last.

[@1spittfire]

@@Local_Boydidgood hehehe Morons 😂. Thanks again 🙏.

[@Local_Boydidgood]

Anytime

[@fizzybillylah3816]

That looks great!! That many passes and man hours…how much did that job cost on that particular boat?

[@Local_Boydidgood]

Thanks, I charge between $35 and $130 a ft. A better answer would be: Less than Sanding and it doesn't really matter. I was paid "enough", the owner was pleased. My rates are made for my area/competition. They won't translate to another detailer/area I'm afraid. Lee

[@chrisgraham8711]

What wax do you use after ? Do you use the same technique with it ? I will jump around some more videos to see if I can find one Great as always

[@Local_Boydidgood]

I use a DeWalt DWP849X If I'm going for perfection in gelcoat, I don't use a ceramic (unless a very new boat) I prefer the ease, cost and reliability of Fire Glaze by RMP www.restructuremarine.com/fireglaze-products-2 (tell them Lee sent you. No discount and I receive nothing but I'd like them to know 😊) 3M Quick Connect adapter (mfg # 05752) to use with the double-sided compounding pad (3M mfg #05753) or the double-sided polishing pad (3M mfg #05754) Foam compounding pads 3M (05737-discontinued but awesome) or (05723-new version 😑) 3M Super-Duty (05954) 3M Perfect It Heavy Cutting Compound (36102) Perfect-it ex ac compounds by 3M (36060) Meguiar’s (owned by 3M) Flagship Premium Wax (M6332) Pro Polish by Shurehold or 3M's liquid wax with scotchguard. I receive no payment for listing these items. I list them because you guys ask and I just thought I would save some time. Wear protective gear, this stuff can cause cancer and kill you. Different techniques

[@chrisgraham8711]

@@Local_Boydidgood you made me go buy the same Dewalt about a year ago after watching your videos hahahaha BTW, 3M should be paying you, as you also had me buying the 3 bottles you use during this video and though its absolutely worth it, they aren't cheap.....I literally wrote 1, 2 and 3 on the bottles so I never forget which ones to use first lol Going to order some of this wax as well - Thanks again for all the videos and things you are doing for us small people

[@Local_Boydidgood]

Well thanks for all that kindness. I like the numbering idea, good idea. I think 3M is sort of doing that now but not on their Super-Duty. I hope it all serves you well as it does me. I'd be happy to work with 3M someday. Next time they ring me up, I'll ask if they'll sponsor a big class lots of people could attend at once. Boat show demos, Sema..? I don't know if I have an attitude to be a salesman again. The product I use have earned a good living for lots of people, for a simple reason, they work. They do cost a bit but when used correctly, man do they pay off. If I got paid to push their stuff, I'd feel like one of the youtubers I couldn't ever trust to give product advice, the temptation to corrupt my value as a non biased observer, to me is my payment. Anyone is free to post stuff on the 3M website if you want to help me get their head officers to consider doing something with what I do. That'd be cool. I should be adding that to my description.. 🤔 Lee

[@stevenlocke14]

Hey Lee, ive been checking out your videos in an attempt to get away from wet sanding! just trying to watch and learn the process for now and then try some test spots. question I have is what RPMs are you running at the slow speed vs high speed. it looks like you go from about 1000rpm to max speed on the rotary?

[@Local_Boydidgood]

Hi. I start @ 600 and then move up to 3,600 but I've been doing this for 17 years and don't recommend it for anyone else. It's risky and for someone not familiar with it, dangerous to both you and the boat. I've done videos showing that the high speed is hardly saving any time. Doing one section of a boat fast versus slow and the time saved equates to about 30 seconds. That's not worth risking a swirl or breaking something. Until you're very, VERY comfortable with your buffer and speeds like that, I do not recommend that you mimic me. I do it as a gimmick and to put other youtube "experts" in their place as they can't and even if they could, would never show their work in the sun. Welcome aboard Steven, hopefully you'll find the vids helpful. Glad to have you here. Lee

[@stevenlocke14]

@@Local_Boydidgood yea I’m not an expert with a buffer… yet 😉 but I am getting there. I will work on the speed and control for now. I wasn’t sure if the compounds needed that speed to work correctly, but if I can get away with slower speeds and take my time I am perfectly comfortable with that. I love your “boring” videos 😂 there is so much knowledge a little tips you throw out here and there, it’s great! It gives me motivation to keep detailing and perfecting my skills

[@Local_Boydidgood]

For the record, when I go fast, I only do it when there's room to. Never on a curved or tiny area. There's a long held myth that you need to build up some heat to make this buffing thing work. It's garbage. Mostly, I'm running @ 600 for like 80% of a boat and the 20% left over is always flat and big. I'm glad you like the videos. I appreciate the kind words and your question. The most important thing is to start off aggressively and smooth out to a nice flat, controlled finish. Everything takes time to master but it's why I show basically the same thing in most of my vids, repatriation in the process. Dance with the buffer, don't fight or force it. She knows what she's doing. Lee

[@benntn]

How about the bottom of the hulls? Do you buff them too? I don't see any videos of you buffing the the bottom.

[@Local_Boydidgood]

Why would you? Nothing but bottom paint last underwater, nothing (except a ceramic coating tiO2 only and only for a while on a new boat) Clean it, wax the part out of the water and a few inches below that but water isn't pure. It has dust in it when you drive through it, acts like a light compound. Bottom paint should be on the bottom of every boat. Nobody does it but bigger boats, huge mistake in my opinion. I also will NEVER do a boat trailer. 😊

[@benntn]

@@Local_Boydidgood My boat isn't painted below the waterline. And It sits in the water during the summer months. So it gets stained and then I have acid wash it to get the crud off. Running it in the water doesn't clean it either. I guess I should take it out of the water more and wash it but I was just curious what you did. If I were your customer I would want the bottom to be buff and wax just like the sides. Even though you can't see, I know it is there.

[@Local_Boydidgood]

I would not buff the bottom no matter what money you offered. It's only there for a week or 2 then you'll just think it's there. I don't charge people for frivolous things. We clean the bottoms with oxalic acid or a hull cleaner and a deck brush but once it's white or clean, that's it. The only parts of a hull I do extra and only when on a trailer are the transom wall around an out drive and the front part of the bow, so it looks decent on a trailer. If you have the money to pay a guy to clean and buff the hull, at a boat yard so you can put it on stands, move it again to new stands and wax the areas previously covered by the 1st set of stands, you should be able to just sand the hull once, clean it and apply a bottom paint and stop worrying about it for 5-10 years while protecting your gelcoat from getting blisters and ruining your boat. Hullspeed makes a cool bottom paint, worked well on my boat and no, I'd never wax the bottom of my boat either.

[@benntn]

@@Local_Boydidgood Makes sense. You do awesome work and I appreciate your years of experience and knowledge. Thank you for sharing it and for your service.

[@Local_Boydidgood]

Anytime brother. I don't always sound like a Primadonna but I've been asked to do hulls for 17 years and I just can't see the point. If new, Ceramic coat it (TiO2 not SiO2) or bottom paint it and you'll be happy. I appreciate the comment and the praise but it's just laziness that actually has a reason behind it here.

[@peace4peaceful]

Hi Lee. I made it. 2 minutes in and I'm like..heavy cut? My ignorance knows no bounds. I thought cutting would take of ground dirt n scratches..not polish the gelcoat. So..I'm wrong straight up. Polish is not a product that "lays" on the surface. How does cutting polish the gel coat. No need to answer. I'm still watching. I'm at the stage of what is what, what does what and what's the difference between wax and a synthetic sealant. Someone curved that at me today..lol. 11.30 minutes in. A cutting pad? Shopping list accumulating. 😌 30 mins in. You said it would be BAF..fibber..lol. Very impressive. Top notch stuff. I had a quote of au $7k to do my 36 footer. It's a lot worse than that boat. Rust..blotched white colour, chalky you name it. I've been hitting mine with a pressure cleaner to move all the green mould and dirt. On with the vid. Well, I made it to the end. Great stuff. I'm off to clean more boat. I will post this vid on my FB business page. Tell 3m, dealt ect you reach Australia. The owners of Lake Fork Austin Texas like our page. I'll be back. I'll be looking at how n when you use Septone acid cleaner. Thanks Lee.

[@Local_Boydidgood]

There's lots of words people use to describe all this, I try to avoid them. They get confusing. Compounds "cut" and when I say add a "polish" I mean a wax but I don't want people to use an actual "wax" like caranuba but rather a synthetic or polymer based sealant or wax I guess but something made for gelcoat not a car just like when doing a car, I don't want people to use a boat "wax" they're made for different surfaces, one is porous and one isn't so the final protection layer needs to be made for what it's going on. It's like "soda", "pop" and "soft drink". They all mean the same thing but differ on use depending on where you are. Waxing a boat is kind of like that I find. There's no "right thing to say. A compound can cut but also polish and adding a lighter compound step is often called a polish step but then adding a polish/wax/sealant, locks in that surface. I know it's crazy but talk to someone who does cars and there's like 3 Compounds and 4 polishes and then a sealer and a wax... Ugh.. Compound and Wax are what I use to roughly describe what takes place. Sorry if I added anything to your confusion. 😊

[@peace4peaceful]

@@Local_Boydidgood Gotta go through it to understand it. It's interesting to me. Before this I thought..cut..polish..wax. a definitive step completely different from each other. But as you said..yes and no. I'm getting there. Wish you could see my boat. Neglected before me. I've left it 3 years circumstances I guess. Now I'm at it..so get it right I figure.

[@Local_Boydidgood]

If you're watching, you'll get it. I repeat myself in about 75% of my vids, all the same stuff just different boats, specifically to show people that it works, again and again, doing the same basic things. Some of the boats are bad and some are worse, the steps increase by one or 2 but the technique is the same for all the compounds and only vary slightly if at all, depending on the size of a section or because it was a really bad section. The "wax" stage varies too but only because I want different things from the polish/wax, for the boat. I don't explain much of that on the vids. Waxing is the easy part, all the work was already done with the compounds so there's really not too many wrong ways to go about protecting the finish after all that. Let me know when you're ready to start and if you have some last minute questions before getting into her, I'll be here. Lee

[@peace4peaceful]

@@Local_Boydidgood Just finished the vid. Posted it on my page I will add it to my business page. Acetone..I'll check out your vids for it's use. I called septone before? Anyway. I need to invest in some gear. I was gonna use my drill and grinder but maybe not. So, buffer, 3m super cut, heavy cut and perfect it. Wool pads, cloth and some wax. I noticed your list in the description. That helps too. I might get into the job and when I get stuck..I can bother you a bit with a question or three. Cheers Lee

[@Local_Boydidgood]

Yes, no grinders and a drill can help if you have tight spots but a variable speed buffer/polisher is what's needed even if only using the slow speed setting. I'll be here, thanks for the re-post. I appreciate it. Lee

[@detailingschooldrshine824]

Super duty is magic 3m wow thanks to you l do better work buffing smart

[@Local_Boydidgood]

I'm honored to have been a small influence. It does have a punch. It's made for car paint if you can believe that. 😂